A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER December 2016 Vol. 29, No. 12

Dateline: cuba Kehrein, the Orvis Sporting Travel pro- suggested packing list were good and gram manager. I have done business thorough. On-Site Report with Orvis Travel for a number of Most of my Orvis group trips Orvis Trip Gets a years, have participated in quite a few have been majority male, but this trip, Orvis group trips, and have traveled though not designated a “couples trip,” Very Good Review with Jeremy numerous times to diverse ended up being all couples. The trip is destinations such as Mongolia, Brazil, designed for up to ten people. Initially, Don Causey note: Last month, we put ten were signed up, but two dropped out a call for an early report on those out because of delays in getting details trips to Cuba the Orvis Corporation finalized, leaving four couples. One has put together, and subscriber Keith of the couples had to cancel at the last Hampton heeded our call. There were a moment because of a health issue, so few hiccups, but overall it was a smooth we had only six participants—four dedi- and interesting trip, he says. Spoiler cated anglers, one less-serious angler, alert! The fishing was somewhere be- and a non-angler. tween good and excellent. Orvis partnered with Cuban Edu- y wife, Susan, and I just re- cational Travel (CET) to arrange tours, turned from Orvis’s first cli- ground transportation, and guides in Ment group trip to Cuba. The Cuba and with ABC Travel to provide dates were October 14–21. We had a and Belize. All of my dealings with charter air service from Miami to Ha- very enjoyable and unforgettable ad- Orvis Travel have gone well. I consider vana and necessary travel documents, venture, and I would like to pass along Jeremy a close personal friend, and his including our visas and Cuban health some details and information to fellow Spanish-language skills are a big as- insurance. We traveled on people-to- subscribers. set when traveling in Latin America. people visas, which require a specific Our Orvis trip leader was Jeremy Orvis’s pre-trip planning materials and itinerary and meaningful interaction with Cuban citizens. Our trip was de- SUPPORT OUR CORPORATE SPONSORS signed to be fully compliant with OFAC and all US and Cuban requirements for this type of travel. Thus, our eight-day trip included four full days of fishing and four days that included various tours and meetings. The trip began in Miami the morn- IN THIS ISSUE ing of October 14. We live in Texas, so we flew to Miami on the 13th and Horn of Africa Cuba stayed at a hotel near the airport, where Coming Soon: Trips Largemouth Bass Trips we met Jeremy. The next morning we to Djibouti, Yemen May Be on the Horizon Pages 4–5 Pages 8–9 met the other two couples and a Miami- based employee of CET, who guided us Northwest Territories Subscriber-Written Reports through the check-in process at Miami Lake Trout on the Fly South America, Alaska, on Great Bear Lake Montana, Alberta, & More International Airport. Everything went Pages 5–6 Pages 9–12 smoothly, and we arrived in Havana early afternoon. We were met at the Colombia Louisiana airport by Matt, a Havana-based Ameri- These Peacock Bass Trips Some Thoughts on Fly Are Cheap as They Get! Refusal, Service Boats can employee of CET, and Rafael, our Pages 6–8 Pages 12–14 Cuban tour guide. Our first stop was at THE ANGLING REPORT a paladar, the Cuban term for a privately Our cabanas were very clean cinder owned and operated restaurant. After block buildings consisting of a living lunch, we checked into our hotel, the room, bathroom, and bedroom with Hotel Nacional de Cuba. The hotel was two long twin beds. Unfortunately, built in 1930 and is very nicely main- there were some issues with our accom- tained. The rooms were large and com- modations. There were separate ACs fortable, and there was a large outdoor in the living room and bedroom, and plaza with two bars and a nice breeze in all three of the units the living room coming off the ocean. We had a couple AC was not working well. At least all THE ANGLING REPORT of hours to relax and then met with a the bedroom ACs were working well EDITOR Cuban history professor who gave us enough for us to sleep comfortably Don Causey an overview of Cuban history from the at night. The mini refrigerators in the time of Columbus to the present, fol- cabanas were also not working well. MARKETING DIRECTOR lowed by a question-and-answer period. Water pressure varied between low and Michael Lyons Afterward, we went to dinner at another lower. We experienced a couple of pow- COPY EDITOR paladar. er outages, though none were lengthy. I Gary Hamel The next morning we took ad- am not sure if any real effort was made, vantage of Hotel Nacional’s extensive but the problems with the ACs and re- LAYOUT & PRODUCTION breakfast buffet and then checked out frigerators were never resolved. A new Ben F. Badger Jr. of the hotel and went on a walking tour angler pavilion was not complete as had ILLUSTRATIONS of Old Havana. Later in the afternoon been promised, though progress contin- Gordon Allen we went to visit the Ernest Hemingway ued on it during our visit. ranch on the outskirts of Havana, then During our stay in Playa Larga, we made the roughly two-hour trip south- had breakfast in the hotel restaurant, east to Playa Larga, which is on the which was pretty basic—coffee, juice, The Angling Report Bay of Pigs. Rafael and our bus driver breads, and fruit, and they would cook 202-770-9942 returned to Havana, and Matt remained eggs to order. The anglers had lunch with us in Playa Larga. We met our fish- on the boat—a meat sandwich on a The Angling Report (ISSN: 1045-3539) is published monthly by Oxpecker Enterprises, Inc., 4431 ing guides Felipe (the lead guide) and dry bun, with maybe some fruit or pas- Greenwich Parkway, Washington, DC 20007. Lazaro. We also met some high school try that the guide had picked up from Periodicals Postage Paid at Washington, DC. and students from just up the road in Jagüey breakfast. Plenty of water and some at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to The Angling Report, 4431 Grande who were involved in a mentor- other beverage choices were available. Greenwich Parkway, Washington, DC 20007. The ing program led by Felipe in which they On two nights we had dinner at the ho- Angling Report is not a booking agent, nor is it learn to cast, fish, tie flies, and develop tel restaurant, which was OK, but unre- affiliated with a booking agent, outfitter, or guide. other skills that might lead them to be- markable. Three nights we had dinner at How can we help you? come fishing guides. The young men paladares in Playa Larga. demonstrated their casting skills (pretty Susan had planned to fish one of New Subscriptions: A one-year subscription costs $49. Add $11 per year in Canada/Mexico. $29 darn good, one could cast well with the four fishing days, but she changed overseas. Visa/MC/Amex accepted. Contact us on the either hand), and we were each gifted her mind and decided to investigate Web (www.anglingreport.com), by phone (202-770- a bonefish fly and a tarpon fly they had the non-angling activities along with 9942), by e-mail ([email protected]), or by mail (The Angling Report, 4431 Greenwich Parkway, tied. Elizabeth, the other non-angling spouse. Washington, DC 20007). Online Extra Upgrade: One year costs $24, in addition to regular subscription fee. Puts one on list Honor Roll Subscribers to receive e-mail invitations to go fishing FREE in return for filing a report. Unlimited access to our trip- „„ The Angling Report encourages also get special consideration for planning database also included. Plus, e-mail and hard subscribers to file reports on great FREE trips. If you have been on copies of monthly newsletters. Same contact details places to fish and important news an interesting trip recently, send a as above. developments that help the rest of letter-length report to see if you can Trip-Planning Materials: Same contact details as us decide where to go — or not to get on our subscriber Honor Roll. above. By phone, fax, e-mail, or mail. Do your own searches on our website, www.anglingreport.com. Click go — fishing. Subscribers who file E-mail it to doncausey@anglingre- on “Trip-Planning Tools.” Thousands of pages of sub- unusually important and useful re- port.com. You can find the complete scriber reports and previously published articles. ports are placed on our Subscriber list of Honor Roll subscribers on Subscription Questions: Same contact details as Honor Roll and sent a complimen- our Web site, www.anglingreport. above. On our website, www.anglingreport.com, click on “Subscribe.” tary Angling Report Honor Roll com. Click on “Honor Roll sub- fishing cap. 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December 2016 -2- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT They took Cuban cooking and salsa of the flats but could give you a pretty half or more of each of our flats days dancing lessons, relaxed on the beach, good pounding if you had to cross open tarpon fishing. During these three days, and toured two other cities that were water when the wind was up. They also the four of us had many eats, jumped within a couple hours’ drive of Playa seemed kind of tippy for a big guy like around 50 fish, and brought about a Larga—Cienfuegos and Trinidad. Matt me. dozen to the boat. Most of the fish accompanied them. Jeremy fished with The flats were as beautiful as any landed were 15 to 25 pounds, but some me one day and went with the non- I have seen anywhere. I did not fish the in the 30s to 40s were jumped, and fish anglers on the other days. They reported same flat twice. I was particularly im- that looked like they would go around that they thoroughly enjoyed all of these pressed by the virtual absence of trash 60 were spotted. activities including shopping, meet- or other man-made debris. The bone- On the river, we were fishing ing with local officials and citizens, fishing was very good. We all caught deeper water (which was clear but had sightseeing, and enjoying much better numerous fish that probably averaged a tannic stain) for tarpon and snook. We lunches at paladares than the anglers around five pounds. No one caught any- fished from 17-foot Basstracker alumi- had on the boats. thing that would approach double digits, num bass boats. No snook were landed, Since this is for The Angling Re- but no real small fish were caught either. but the tarpon fishing was excellent. port, I should devote some of this report We encountered singles, small groups, We fished rollers and blind cast with to the fishing. It was outstanding. Our and large schools. I think anyone who intermediate and sinking lines. I think guides were excellent. They all had enjoys fishing for bonefish would really we had 60-odd hookups with 20 fish to extensive knowledge of the fishery, like this fishery. the boat among the four of us. Most of as well as the area and the country in the fish brought to the boat were from general. All spoke very good English, 10 to 20 pounds, but there were a few not just “fishing English,” so plenty of larger ones, and the largest was 80 to 90 conversation about a variety of topics pounds. The guides told us that the tar- took place. We fished in the Cienaga de pon fishing is not always that good. We Zapata Parque Nacional (Zapata Swamp considered ourselves quite fortunate. National Park). Our outfitter had exclu- We all caught more tarpon than we ever sive fishing rights to the part of the park had before on a single trip. where we were fishing, so we did not Rafael and the bus returned on the encounter any other recreational fisher- 20th to take us back to Havana. On the men. We did observe a commercial boat trip back, we stopped at what we be- operating illegally in park waters. The lieve is the only fly shop in Cuba. The guides reported it to the appropriate As for permit, no one spent a lot of proprietor, Don Yoyi, also does wood- authorities and we later heard that the time looking for them. Jim and Lindsey work, and the shop was full of beauti- boat’s nets were confiscated. We fished did not try to find permit. Jay and I did ful wooden fly boxes (ornamental vs. three days on the Salinas flats and one try, and our guides were able to lead us practical), carvings, fly-tying stations, day on the Hatiguanico River. The flats to some fish. Jay had a shot at a pair and paintings. He is a very engaging are restricted to eight anglers per day. and I saw around a dozen and had a individual, made us coconut water and Because of the size of our group, this couple of shots. But even unpressured brewed us coffee that he grew in the posed no practical restriction. If, how- permit are still permit, and neither of us backyard. We all also received one of ever, this had been a full trip of ten and hooked up. A little time was spent look- his fly boxes that he had made specifi- all were anglers, up to eight could fish ing for snook, but with no success. cally for the members of our group. the flats and two or more would fish the I think what surprised all of us Back in Havana, we met with a river each day. was the quality of the juvenile/resident Cuban singer/songwriter who gave us The trip from the hotel to the flats tarpon fishing, and for an unapologetic an overview of the history of Cuban was 21 km and took approximately an tarpon junkie like me, this was indeed music and, along with another Cuban hour, which should give an idea about a pleasant surprise. We all spent time musician, sang several historic and con- the condition of the road. The trip to the looking for tarpon each day, all found temporary Cuban songs. We ate lunch, river also took approximately an hour, them, all hooked up, and all landed fish. did some more sightseeing, and checked but all of it except for the last few miles Lindsey caught her first (and second) back into the Hotel Nacional for our fi- was on paved road. On the flats, I was tarpon. We didn’t see them out cruis- nal night, followed by dinner at another expecting good bonefishing with a pos- ing on the flats. They were at the edge paladar. On the 21st, we visited a classic sibility of shots at permit and tarpon. of the mangroves and in clearings and car restoration shop on the way back to We fished from small Beavertail skiffs channels. We sight-fished, fished rollers, the airport. This was very interesting, as with tiller outboards, which worked and did some blind casting. The fishing the owner explained to us some of the well in the extremely shallow water was so good that we all spent around processes they go through in restoring

December 2016 -3- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT the cars as well as what it is like to run should mention is that all of the pub- consistently very good. The non-fishing a private business in Cuba. The check-in lic restrooms that we encountered in activities were informative and enjoy- process back at the airport went without Cuba were in a pretty deplorable state. able. I would not hesitate to recommend a hitch, and we had an on-time flight Toilet seats and paper were rare, so this trip, as long as you are not expect- back to Miami. if you need paper, you should be pre- ing five-star accommodations during Overall, I think everyone had a pared. Without exception, the Cuban the fishing part of the trip and you can great time. The issues we had with the people that we encountered were warm, roll with the punches. We paid $6,150 government-run hotel in Playa Larga friendly, inviting, and very desirous per person for the trip plus $650 for were not enough to significantly dimin- of friendly relations between Cuba the charter flight and travel documents. ish our enjoyment of the experience. and the United States. The fishing was Commercial flights to Havana are sup- One other negative that I probably great. The food at the paladares was posed to begin in December. Enjoy!

Briefly Noted Things to Do . . . Places to Go . . . New Developments „„ We have published quite a few re- he says. For one thing, the electrical and The country of Djibouti is a jigsaw ports on the evolving fishery in the Red plumbing systems on board have been puzzle piece of land surrounded by Sea north of the City of Port Sudan. improved; plus, he says, thick, new, Ethiopia, Eritrea, and Somalia about Long known as a world-class diving and comfortable sleeping mats have a thousand miles to the south of Port spot, it has come into its own recently been installed. He recommends the trip Sudan. It fronts on the Red Sea. Don’t as a somewhat rugged, frontier-like and gives the cost of it as 3,750 euros. be embarrassed, by the way, about not place to go in search of giant trevally Interestingly, he says he booked his trip knowing that: We had to go to Google and triggerfish, among other species. directly with the outfitter of this trip, Maps to find it ourselves and figure out Our latest report, in the August 2016 Wild Sea Expedition (www.wildseaex- how to describe where it is. Like the issue, was from subscriber Ueli Zellwe- pedition.com), not Aardvark Mcleod or Sudan trip, this one focuses on giant ger, who was particularly impressed by Tourette Fishing, the two agents who trevally and similar species. Here is how the triggerfishing there. are listed as partners on the Wild Sea the two owners of the company (Nicola This past month we received still website and who have booked all of the Vitali and Federico Castignoli) describe another report on this area. It’s from this trip: Larry Seidler who targeted GTs, trig- “Djibouti is without any doubt gerfish, bluefin trevally, and coral trout one of the last frontiers for the fanatic this past June. He recommends the trip GT hunter. Despite being quite easy to but goes on to call it a “no frills trip reach, the sea here still hasn’t been ex- for young, tough men, as the mother ploited because of the total absence of ship you live on is not air-conditioned, human structure on the coastline. What and Sudan is very hot—like 105 to 115 makes the fishing particularly good is degrees Fahrenheit!” He was in Sudan Djibouti’s strategic position between the in June, and he says he will go in May Gulf of Aden and the Red Sea. The sea next time, when it is a little cooler. here is extremely rich in nutrients. Seidler says all of the species men- “Wild Sea Expedition is proud to tioned above were abundant. He did be the first to offer a liveboard trip to most of his fishing by wading flats and other trips we have written about in the the two main fishing spots in Djibouti, at the edge of coral reefs, casting large past. the Seven Brothers Archipelago and 2/0 flies with a 12 wt. rod rigged with a If you are an adventurer, the Wild the Passe of Goubet. The former are six Rio GT line. “I caught many fish daily Sea website deserves a look. Seems the small rocky islands right in the middle of all species, from two to 30 pounds,” two Italians who operate the company of the Bab el Mandeb Strait that con- he writes. “There is no fishing pressure offer two versions of the Sudan trip (one nects the Red Sea to the Gulf of Aden. in Sudan. I did not see any other boat that focuses on flats fishing and one that This is one of the best GT places in the entire week I was there this year or focuses on reef fishing), plus a trip to the world. The current here is always last year.” Djibouti that is completely new to us, pushing, and baitfish are present here While noting that the mother ship and another one to Socotra Island that in huge numbers. The real highlight of used on this trip (it’s called My Scuba has been put on hold until things calm the place is the fact that GTs congre- Libre) is not air-conditioned, there were down in Yemen. More on that trip in a gate around the islands in the spring to some improvements this year over last, moment. spawn. At that time, there are simply

December 2016 -4- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT huge numbers of GTS around, many of World Heritage Site. The island is very shore to catch Indian permit, bonefish, them very large. Fish weighing more lightly populated, and there are no ac- small threadfin, leerfish, bream, and than 130 pounds have been caught. The commodations there other than a few bluefin trevally. . . .” Seven Brothers are also the best spot in spartan camping sites and widely scat- You get the picture. The trips here the world for shore fishing for GTs, be- tered fishing villages, many of which are all conducted from land-based tent cause the shoreline is very flat and easy are reachable only by boat. The incredi- camps. Suffice it to say, conditions to wade. ble thing about this island is the average are not luxurious. Nor, at the moment, “The other place we fish is the Pass size of the GTs that attack your popper is your safety guaranteed. It’s getting of Goubet, which is one of the most cra- have no equal anywhere in the world. ahead of ourselves to say this but, again, zy and spectacular spots in the world for Fully 90 percent of the fish you hook a place on our Honor Roll is guaranteed popping (using surface poppers). The that way here weigh almost 90 pounds. to the first angler who files a detailed re- pass is a small channel between two This is certainly due to the local abun- port on what this trip is like. Send it to: seas with a small island in the middle. dance of forage fish, a near-absence of [email protected]. Since the place is very tidal, the current fishing pressure, and strong currents can be really unbelievable. It will re- that transport large quantities of nutri- „„ You’ve heard of lake trout fishing mind you of fishing a Himalayan river. ents. Additionally, the island is ideally in the Northwest Territories. It mostly You can imagine what it is like fighting located to enjoy the benefits of an ocean involves trolling with large lures and a fish in such a mass of moving water! current from the south that creates an heavy tackle. But not always, according The best season in Djibouti is April upwelling that brings nutrients from to subscriber Karl Fischer, who tells us to May, but June and October are also the deep up toward the surface. A final he fished for lake trout with a fly this good. The main target here are GTs, thing that works in this island’s favor is past August during a special fly fishing but everything else is present, includ- week at Plummers Great Bear Lake ing snappers, groupers, tunas, Spanish Lodge (www.plummerslodges.com). mackerel, and Napoleons, along with The trip also included fly-outs for char a good number of sailfish and monster and grayling. He writes: triggerfish. You can fly fish here for GTs “When you hear Arctic Circle, you on some of the flats.” think of barren tundra, snow, ice, and Does that sound exciting enough polar bears, right? Well, think again! for you? The first subscriber to go on I took a weeklong trip to Plummer’s this trip and file a detailed report is Great Bear Lake Lodge this past August guaranteed a spot on our Honor Roll. 13 to 20 and there was no snow or ice. I Send it to: doncausey@anglingreport. fished in shirt sleeves every day but one, com. As for the second trip, to Socotra and that day I wore a fleece jacket. The Island, this trip is not currently being scenery is breathtaking. offered because the island is uncomfort- “Plummer’s mostly caters to tra- ably close (190 nautical miles) to war- the effect on commercial fishermen of ditional fishermen, but the week I was torn Yemen and is actually Yemeni ter- the often violent local winds. The resul- there is typically set aside for fly fish- ritory. Way too many bombs are falling tant treacherous sea conditions prevent ing. It is at this time of year that the in Yemen right now to even think about continuous fishing by local fishermen. lake trout move from the deeper parts going to Socotra Island. Still, it’s not Unfortunately, those same winds also of the lake to more shallow water in too early to savor what this destination limit the practical sport fishing season preparation for spawning. This makes is all about. Here’s an excerpt from the to a little less than four months a year, them more available to fly fishing. The Wild Sea website: namely, October and November and fly fishing package includes a fly-out to “Socotra Island is one of the windi- March and April. As for the species the Tree River for two days of fishing est islands in the world, and it is also available, other than GTs, there is a for arctic char, plus another fly-out to a beset by very strong currents, factors huge migration of sailfish and Spanish remote stream to fish for grayling. The that make the most productive fishing mackerel. Also, there is an annual mi- Tree River is fished by fewer than 200 spots impassable about seven months gration of pelagic crabs (they float near people a year. The remainder of the trip of the year. The roughly 70-mile-long the surface) that attracts golden trevally, is dedicated to fishing for lake trout or island is known for its dragon trees and yellow spotted trevally, bludger trev- pike. numerous other indigenous species of ally and blacktip trevally. Many kinds “Great Bear Lake is the fourth-larg- plants, birds, reptiles and insects. In that of coral fish are present, too, such as est lake in North America. The lodge is regard, it is similar to the Galapagos Is- red snapper, green jobfish, rusty jobfish, about 20 miles inside the Arctic Circle, lands off the coast of Ecuador. It is cur- coral trout and various species of grou- and only about 400 people fish this part rently being considered as a UNESCO per and emperor. You can also fish from of the lake in a year. There were 11

December 2016 -5- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT anglers at the lodge while I was there, lunch was a sandwich on the riverside. caught all our fish on dry flies—small though they can accommodate up to 44 “All three days we were there we Stimulators, Parachute Adams, and Elk anglers. The cabins at Great Bear Lake hiked upstream to fish for char. The Hair Caddis in size 14 to 16. I feel sure Lodge are plain but comfortable. The fishing involved sight casting to individ- I caught at least a hundred fish before staff was very anxious to please, and ual fish. It is challenging—not a game the float plane returned to take us back the food was superb—some of the very of quantity, but one of quality. I caught to the lodge for the evening. On day six, best meals I’ve ever eaten. Our chef, a lake trout and a char the first after- we again fished for lake trout. I caught Greg Fuchs, who graduated from culi- noon. I would guess that each weighed about ten fish, most of which were on nary school several years ago, has been between eight and 10 pounds. We fished the small side (three to four pounds) Plummer’s chef for the last three years. two more days, and each day I caught except for one that weighed a bit more He made a different bread for us each three char, most of which weighed than 28 pounds. The whole trip was day to accompany the evening meal. between eight and 10 pounds, though wonderful, including the meals, the fish- “The trip involves flying into Yel- I did catch one that weighed a bit over ing and the spectacular scenery.” lowknife, capital of the Northwest 18 pounds. Greg, my fishing partner, Postscript: Fischer gives the cost of his Territories. I was met at the airport by caught about six fish each day. His larg- trip as $6,290, not including gratuities a Plummer’s expeditor, taken to my est fish weighed about 14 pounds. We or flights to and from Yellowknife. hotel, and briefed on the schedule for used 8-weight rods with sink-tip lines. the flight the next morning from Yel- The flies we used were Imperial Char „„ Talk about a low-cost peacock bass lowknife to the lodge. All my hotel Destroyers, sizes 1/0 to 6, in pink and fishing trip! This one in Colombia beats arrangements were made by Brenda black. These were a pattern developed anything we have heard about, and it Prins, Plummer’s office manager. Day by Chance, and were a variation of the appears to be on the level, producing one started with a two-hour flight from some very large peacocks, as well as Yellowknife to the lodge. I was shown good payara. We heard about the trip to my cabin and then served lunch, af- from subscriber Richard Hart, who ter which I met my fishing partner for checked in with this report last month. the week, Greg Walker, and my guide, He writes: Terry Grant. Terry was a great guide, “Some 30 years ago Colombia was extremely accommodating, and very the place for Americans to fish for huge familiar with the water and the fish. We peacock bass. Now, thanks to vigorous fished for lake trout until 6 PM that day. government intervention and a lot of I caught about 10 fish in the eight- to help from the US military, Colombia is 10-pound range. reemerging as a place to go in search “Day two started with breakfast, of various subspecies of peacock bass, followed by a 200-mile flight to the including the speckled peacock bass Tree River, where we were shown to our Popsicle. The largest fish was caught on (Cichla temensis). I went in search cabins, served lunch, and introduced to a huge pink-and-white fly, size 6/0, that of this species recently with Javier our guide, Chance Prestie. Chance was Chance designed, which he called a Mr. Guevara of Ecuador Fly Fishing Tours a fabulous guide, extremely knowledge- Rat. It was a whitefish/cisco imitation. (www.ecuadorflyfishingtours.com) at a able, and he was willing to do whatever “Day 4 started with breakfast, fol- jungle facility called Tucunare Lodge he could to make our efforts successful. lowed by the flight to return to Great (www.tucunarelodge.com). There are no trees on the Tree River, in- Bear Lake Lodge. We spent the after- “Flights to Bogota, the capital, take cidentally; it gets its name from the fact noon fishing for lake trout. The fishing approximately four hours from Miami. that when seen from the air it is shaped was very slow that afternoon. I don’t Spending a couple of nights there with like a tree. It is a large river, probably remember exact numbers; I just remem- friends was like being in Coral Gables, 100 to 150 feet wide, and one of the ber the fishing being slow. Day 5 started an upscale incorporated area within most beautiful rivers I’ve ever fished. with breakfast and a fly-out to the Sulky Greater Miami. Lots of vibrant bars, There were huge waterfalls each mile of River, where we fished for grayling. The restaurants, and shopping areas to equal the three miles of river that we fished. Sulky is a small river—I would guess any mall in the United States. The cost The cabins at the Tree River were no more than a very long cast wide. of the entire trip was $2,950, includ- sparse—a bed and an oil stove. The There was a beautiful waterfall about ing overnight hotel stay in Bogota, a shower was in a separate building, but a quarter of a mile downstream from roundtrip internal flight of about an everything was clean. We were accom- where we began fishing. The fishing hour, food, and drinks. Only flights panied by our chef, so, once again, the was incredible! The fish ranged between from the States and guide and staff tips meals were superb. Breakfast and sup- 10 and 17 inches, with about two-thirds are not included. per were served in the dining hall and of those coming in at 17 inches. We “The trip, once you arrive in Co-

December 2016 -6- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT lombia, begins with a flight to Inírida in any travel insurance you take out. It’s “The fishing boats in use here the eastern part of the country near the very inexpensive, and it may save you a were large, strong, 20-foot, custom- Venezuelan border. The visible army lot in medical evacuation costs if some- made metal boats with two seats and presence here outnumbered the pas- thing goes wrong in an area this remote. plenty of platform area to cast from. sengers on our flight, an indication of “I was fly-fishing on this trip, using An icebox full of cold drinks was on how seriously the government considers fast-action Sage SALT 9- and 10-weight hand daily, along with a packed lunch. security in this region. We had a quick rods loaded with Rio Tropical Outbound We would stop in the midday sun for a lunch and started our fast-boat transfer short floating fly lines on a Tibor Sig- shore lunch, and the guide would set up to the lodge, going downstream to the nature reel. I needed a rod with strong a hammock for a quick siesta under the Orinoco River and then continuing on backbone for tiring out the payara and jungle shade. to the Vichada River with the Venezu- for controlling the peacock bass, as “The main draw for everyone on elan jungle on one side and Colombia they tend to charge structure of any sort my trip was the hard-hitting speckled on the other for much of the way. The when hooked, including submerged peacock bass, but there were other pea- jungle lodge is located in the village trees. The large speckled peacock bass cock species available, including the of Cumaribo, which is head village for (Cichla temensis) congregate in lagoons Orinoco peacock bass (Cichla orinocen- a local tribe of Indians. The facility here in low-water season (September sis), which ran upwards of 10 pounds. is situated high on a river bluff with a thru April). These lagoons are fun to There were also butterfly peacocks here fantastic view over the Vichada River. get into, as the guides have to make (Cichla ocellaris) that also ran upwards The workers at the lodge are all local their way through small creeks, often of 10 pounds, plus the Tucanare Real villagers. There is a dining room and having to chop through fallen branches. (Cichla intermedia) indigenous to the several individual lodges that house two Once inside these lagoons, we were Orinico River and tributaries. These people each. latter ran upwards of eight pounds. The “I had come here for the peacock, speckled peacock bass here get huge, but payara were a target daily in the mind you. I was told clients catch fish fast river. The payara (or ‘Vampire here weighing more than 20 pounds fish’) (Hydrolycus scomberoides) hit every week. On our trip more than 10 lures or flies fast and hard. They are were caught around the 20-pound-plus very hard to hook, as their mouths are mark. I heard a lot of talk on this trip very toothy and bony. I landed maybe about the next IGFA All Tackle World two or three out of every ten I hooked. Record coming out of Colombia. That They all jumped high in the air, shaking record currently sits at 29 pounds, 1 their heads violently, a lot like tarpon, ounce. trying to throw the hooks. We would “Another fish available here in large stop daily and cast from the rocks into numbers is the black piranha (Serrasal- fast current and deep pools to connect mus rhombeus). They are a likely catch with the payara. Sinking lures and flies able to cast directly at points and struc- in the deeper river waters if you wish to both worked. Pellona is another avail- tures. For me, large peacock bass flies target them. Bicuda (Boulengerella cu- able fish that acts and looks a bit like by Rainy’s (www.rainysflies.com/fly- vieri) up to 10 pounds are also around, a tarpon (Pellona castelnaeana or Sar- assortments) in red and white, red and particularly in the rapids. Finally, there dinata Real). They grow to more than yellow, or yellow and orange were the are many species of catfish that grow 20 pounds and are generally targeted in most successful. My boat partner, Luis, big in these rivers. It will take live or lower water conditions. and the rest of the group, were fishing dead bait to catch those. “If you plan to come here, bring with lures: large poppers, diving plugs, “On our final day, we left the jungle everything you need. That includes a re- huge propeller lures, spooks (or walk- in the morning to catch our return in- ally good sunhat, sunscreen (50 SPF or the-dog), and jigs. The heavy jigs were ternal flight. On arrival in Bogotá, we better), light-colored, long-sleeve shirts particularly well liked by the peacocks. headed to our hotel and rested up until and long pants, a bandana (or buff), a Many fish in the 10- to 20-pound range we went out for a nice meal at a very pair of good wading shoes, and a rain were landed daily. The best colors were busy steak house in Bogotá’s main jacket for the sudden and often heavy yellow with orange or red. As peacock shopping and dining area. All in all, this jungle showers. You should also bring bass charge your lure or fly they waken was a very good trip.” basic first-aid items such as an anti-itch the other fish around them, so it’s not Don Causey Note: The redevelopment cream, a disinfectant for any cuts, after- unusual to see four or five fish chase the of the peacock bass fishing business in sun lotion, aspirin, and bandages. I also one hooked. It was common practice for Colombia is proceeding rapidly as this recommend signing up for Global Res- your boat mate to cast right behind the issue goes together. After the above cue (www.globalrescue.com) apart from action when you hooked a fish. report was edited, we learned there is a

December 2016 -7- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT US outfitter (we’ve mentioned him be- already passed through that same airport and which is printed below. Snow’s fore—Alex Zapata) whose trips are just with no problem. He writes: story defies easy summary, but suffice as cheap as the one described above. In “Just got back from a quick trip to it to say it culminated in a Lilliputian fact, Zapata’s trips range from $2,500 Cabo San Lucas, where I caught a few fish war that would be funny if it had (which is cheaper) up to $3,500, and dorado, but no roosters. I had to check not had such serious consequences for they include most of the same services. my rod case coming back to the States. Snow. We were dragged into the edge The major difference between the two This was no arbitrary decision by one of that war here at The Angling Report is Zapata conducts his trips out of riv- person either, since there was a sign at when a US Treasury Department gum- erside camps, with tents, rather than the check-in desk that read: ‘No golf shoe visited our office and demanded from a fixed jungle lodge. This offers balls, camera tripods, and fishing rods we turn over all of our files on Dan greater mobility, but is probably a bit in carry on.’ The logic escapes me, Snow. We never did that, but until the more primitive than the jungle camp since I had no problem arriving in Cabo end of his days Snow believed The An- lodging described above. It’s anyone’s with my rods in the overhead bin. And gling Report helped send him to jail be- guess at this point where the Colombia what is this with golf balls?” cause a FOIA (Freedom of Information sportfishing business will land, but right Indeed, what is this with golf balls? Act) request he filed years later turned now no one we are aware of is provid- Camera tripods and golf clubs maybe up some copies of subscriber reports ing world-class comfort and amenities. could be used as bludgeons. But ban- from this publication. If he had ever If you don’t value those things a lot and ning golf balls is just plain stupid. You asked, we would have told him the US you love that feel of being on the cut- can’t reason with an idea like that. So Treasury Department’s Office of For- ting edge, you’ll probably really like craft a backup plan for your rod case eign Assets Control simply subscribed Colombia peacock bass fishing right and relax. That’s our advice. to The Angling Report (we knew that at now. If you wilt in the heat and wince the time and behaved accordingly), and at every bug bite, it may not be the right they apparently exercised their right as time for you to go there. a subscriber to order trip reports. We were never aware that they ordered the „„ Last month, you’ll recall, we pub- reports. lished a report from subscriber William At any rate, Snow’s experience Douglass, who was recently forced to clearly left a lasting impression on check his fishing rods by personnel at Charles Puff, because he has taken a Narita International Airport in Tokyo very careful and legalistic approach to on his way home from a fishing trip offering trips to Cuba. That will be clear to Mongolia. This happened after he when you read his letter below detail- had already transited that same airport ing his plans to offer a variety of mostly once without anyone saying a word to bass fishing trips in areas of Cuba that him about placing his standard 36-inch have not come up in any of the reports rod carrier in the overhead bin. It cost „„ The list of places to go fishing in we have filed in recent years about him $200 to check the case on the way Cuba is about to get much longer with fishing in Cuba. Snow says there is home. the reemergence of Charles Puff of still excellent bass fishing across Cuba We published the report to drive Cuba Outdoor Adventures (www.cu- in something like 1,000 lakes, as well home the point that no international baoutdooradventures.com) in Missouri. as good fishing for tarpon and other fishing traveler should ever assume he I say reemergence because Puff had saltwater species in waters that we also will be able to take his rods into the some involvement in Cuba way back have never seen in any outfitter’s lit- passenger cabin on every leg of his in the early days of The Angling Report erature. What’s really interesting about trip. No, not even if you have made that when his close personal friend, Dan Puff’s letter is it is probably the opening same trip without encountering a prob- Snow, began to take American fisher- shot in a race to develop dozens, maybe lem. You simply have to have a backup men there in search of largemouth bass hundreds, of new, second-tier fishing plan. in defiance of what was then a dead-se- destinations across Cuba. The new des- At the risk of beginning to sound rious ban on Americans going to Cuba. tinations will not compete head-to-head redundant, last month we heard of Snow, some subscribers will remember, with the super-expensive saltwater des- another instance of an international is widely believed to be the only Ameri- tinations that everyone already knows angler having to check his rod on the can who ever went to jail for defying about in Cuba, and they will likely be way home from a destination. The the American ban on travel to Cuba. priced accordingly. They are sure to destination in this instance was Cabo The Dan Snow story is a bit of appeal to that vast army of American San Lucas, Mexico, and the angler was a digression, but it will explain some hawg-busters who drive rhinestone bass Kenneth Spint. Like Douglass, he had things in a letter Puff sent us last month boats around US lakes and to adventur-

December 2016 -8- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT ous anglers who just don’t think about January 2017, so we feel good about of- and they will be telling us soon what fishing and giant sums like $6,000 coex- fering our tours a bit before then with a is available. It is just a shame my dear isting in the same sentence. small refundable deposit. friend Dan Snow is not here to enjoy Here at The Angling Report we are Here is a list of the areas we will what he started 20 years ago. I am sure not as confident as Puff is in the quality be fishing starting January 2017. We he is watching from above.” of the fishing in most bass lakes and in will run tours to each location weekly. Postscript: Charles Puff was not ready unprotected areas all across Cuba, but This is just a small sample of the lakes to share prices of these trips. We will his claim to have already developed a we have under contract with the Cuban pass those on as soon as we get them. couple of destinations where the bass government: For sure, they will not be in the same weigh up to 14 pounds and where baby • Bass fishing in Pinar del Río. Six universe price-wise as those trips to and juvenile tarpon can be brought to days/five nights; begins with day tours Jardines de la Reina, Cayo Largo, and hand is credible. It is going to be inter- of Havana; three full days of fishing at elsewhere on offer by Avalon (www. esting to watch this new round of devel- various lakes, including Laguna Grande. cubanfishingcenters.com). opment in Cuban fishing take place. If • Tarpon and snook in Pinar del Río. you visit one of these new destinations, Six days/five nights; begins with day „„ And, finally, there are a couple do file a report. No, we won’t send it to tours of Havana; three full days of of troubling developments in South the government! fishing at various areas along the Cuy- America that affect two fisheries that Here is the gist of the letter Puff aguateje River. may well be on the planning calendar sent us: “It has been a while since we • Bass fishing Embalse Hanabanilla. of some subscribers to this publication. spoke about fishing in Cuba. Well, we Five days/four nights; begins with day The first fishery is La Zona, a world- are now putting together our plan to tours of Havana; three full days of fish- class dorado operation that takes place offer fishing there. Cuba has proven to below a major hydroelectric facility on be one step forward and two backward. the Uruguay River. It was developed Those folks are absolutely wonderful, and continues to be operated on the but they have nothing with which to Argentina side of the river by Untamed work. You just cannot imagine. Angling (www.untamedangling.com). “When I started going to Cuba ap- Recently, River Plate Anglers (www.riv- proximately 20 years ago with my good erplateanglers.com/dorados/) developed friend Dan Snow, it was not this hard a similar program on the Uruguay side to organize things. Today, it is virtually of the river. impossible for anyone to accomplish La Zona, as countless visiting anything in a timely manner. Most of anglers will attest, provides access to this, at least the hard part, is behind a dense concentration of very large us, and I am happy to say we have a dorado that congregate near the base of legal company in Cuba. US Secretary the hydroelectric dam to feed on baitfish of State John Kerry stamped our paper- ing at Embalse Hanabanilla. that are injured and/or chopped into bits work recently in the Cuban Embassy • Combination freshwater and salt- by the turbines. The key to this fishery in Washington, DC, and along with our water fishing in Villa Clara and Sancti is access to the base of the dam and Missouri corporation, Cuba Outdoor Spíritus. Six days/five nights; begins to water within roughly a half mile of Adventures, we will be marketing our with day tours of Havana; 1.5 days bass the dam. Opening this water to limited bass, tarpon, snook, and deep-sea fish- fishing at Embalse Hanabanilla; 1.5 angling is what made La Zona such a ing tours. Bass and tarpon will be first days saltwater fishing in the Zaza River sensation, and it also launched Untamed on our hit parade. and the Agabama River (tarpon, snook, Angling and its founder, Marcelo Perez, “I do not want any of your readers yellowtail, snappers). as forces to be reckoned with in world to think they can go with us right now • Bass fishing at Lake Lenora in Las fishing. to Cuba. It is still not legal to travel to Tunas—packages pending. Unfortunately, that water below Cuba unless your trip fits into one of “I would be remiss if I did not the dam has just been closed again. The the 12 categories set up by the Office discuss trophy bass. Fifteen to 20 years news broke near press time, and it was of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC). In ago bass weighing 15 to 22 pounds impossible to confirm the extent of the addition, here at Cuba Outdoor Adven- were fairly common in Cuba. Today, closure, but there was a rough consen- tures, we are not yet legally allowed we do not know what size fish are sus that it extends for 1,000 meters be- to give the Cubans any money. We there. However, we do know several of low the dam. One report put the closure have been told we can’t do that until our lakes have 12- to 14-pound fish in at 500 meters. Either way, the closure the country is officially open. When is them. I know that for a fact. American affects most of the really good fishing, this going to happen? We are guessing bass anglers are the best in the world, and anyone headed there needs to be

December 2016 -9- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT aware of that. On the Uruguayan side, all freshwater fish. Specimens as long as is the new way of handling tarpon, and Luis Brown of River Plate Anglers and ten feet and weighing as much as 480 it just might help with arapaima. An- his principal agent for this trip, J. W. pounds have been reported. other stress-reducing tactic might be a Smith of South American Fly Fishing The first arapaima fishing program voluntary agreement to break off very (www.southamerican-flyfishing.com), we know about was not developed in large fish as soon as they are hooked immediately stopped offering La Zona Brazil but in Guyana. At this point, and redefine victory in arapaima fishing to their clients. Here is the statement however, there are programs in both as enjoying the strikes of big fish but Smith was sending all inquiring anglers countries and a worrying trend toward “touching the leader” on smaller fish at press time: “The new La Zona regula- a general expansion of arapaima sport- only. It appears doubtful these changes tions for both Argentina and Uruguay fishing programs. The trend is worrying will solve the problem, but they might do not allow fishing within 1,000 meters because there is growing evidence that reduce it. of the dam—too far downstream for many of the fish that are caught don’t The second way forward is to fish good, reliable fishing. We appreciate survive. No, we do not have hard facts for arapaima only in the context of your interest and suggest you consider a harvest quota issued to indigenous going golden dorado fishing in Salta, groups. In other words, anglers allowed Argentina, as an alternative. The best to fish for arapaima would be harvest- fishing timeframe is September through ing fish that the local indigenous group November. You can choose to fish only would have taken anyway. Sportfishing or combine the fishing with dove/pi- would not be creating new mortality. geon shooting. To review the programs, A program like this for hunters please visit our website.” was utilized for many years in northern At press time, we called all the Canada, where Inuit groups were annu- numbers we have for Untamed Angling, ally issued a quota of polar bears, a per- but we could not reach anyone. We centage of which they were authorized also sent an e-mail message that has to sell to international hunters, with all not been answered as this is written. funds brought in that way earmarked for We will let you know next month how the local community. The high prices Untamed Angling is handling booked and figures about this (not yet anyway), of these permits had a dramatic impact clients and those who might want to but there is growing talk among guides on local poaching of over-quota bears, book in the future. Anyone caught up in and anglers alike about the high mortal- while also helping the community de- this sudden development is urged to let ity rate of arapaima brought to the boat velop medical facilities and meeting us know what happens. We regret the or shore. other needs. Anglers, of course, are go- apparent closure of this great fishery. There are two possible ways for- ing to have to dig deeper in their pock- The other troubling development ward, in our view. First, perhaps there ets for the right to go arapaima fishing in South American fishing is grow- are ways to reduce the stress that if a plan like this is implemented. But ing doubt about the viability—maybe develops in these fish in the process why not? Don’t we brag a lot about appropriateness is a better word—of of being caught. The use of stronger what great conservationists we are? arapaima (pirarucu) fishing. The arapa- lines and more powerful rods comes to This would put our money where our ima, you will recall, is an ancient air- mind, perhaps coupled with a voluntary mouth is in one small corner of fishing. breathing Amazonian fish that has the agreement not to lift arapaima out of Anyone agree? Or disagree? Write: don- distinction of being one of the largest of the water, even for photographs. This [email protected].

OUTFITTER CRITIQUES The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

This section of The Angling Report is based entirely on subscriber-written Fishing Trip Report Forms. Our policy on these forms is to publish excerpts in the newslet- ter of Angler Network Forms as received without censorship. Agents, guides, lodge operators, and/or outfitters who disagree with anything said about them in this section are free to submit a rebuttal. As a subscriber, you can help extend the reach of this program by filing a Fishing Trip Report Form yourself. You should find one inside this issue of your newsletter. Alternately, you can file a report online by going to our website, www.anglingreport.com, and clicking on “File a Report.” For details about how to do custom searches for Angler Network Reports on our website, see page 2 of this issue. „„ Subscriber John Euard has checked do-it-yourselfers. His trip this past July Forest Service cabin. in with a report on a salmon fishing trip to was to the Misty Fiords area of Tongass “The cabins rent for $35 to $45 per Alaska that will appeal to adventurers and National Forest where he stayed in a US night,” he writes. “Be aware they are very

December 2016 -10- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT basically furnished with a stove, four bunk and Wisconsin fished six and a half days modate eight anglers in four separate cab- beds, and an outhouse. The real cost of at Copper River Lodge in Alaska this past ins, but six seems to be the ideal number the trip is a float plane into and out of the August 21 to 27, and we enjoyed the ex- that is adhered to most of the time. The lake where you land, along with the cost perience so much we are prepared to give cabins had electricity, even at night, and of the food and drink you have to buy in the place our highest possible recommen- hot water. There was plenty of room to Ketchikan to keep you going at the cabin.” dation. The lodge is in the Iliamna Lake store clothing and ample hooks inside and Euard goes on to note that there are area some 200 miles west of Anchorage. outside to hang waders and rain gear. lots of cabins available in the Misty Fiords It is one of the many Sweetwater lodges “Two cooks, Jessica and Lori, provid- area, but if you want one that is particu- (www.sweetwatertravel.com). ed excellent and varied meals. Breakfasts, larly good for salmon fishing you have to “This is strictly a rainbow trout lodge for example, included superb wild blue- reserve it as early as February. The cabins at the time of year we were there, and, berry muffins, scones, reindeer sausage, are on a first-come, first-served basis, he indeed, the fishing for rainbows was excel- and varied egg dishes. Dinners included says. The best time to catch the salmon lent. Every day, after a 15- to 20-minute rack of lamb, steak cooked on a BBQ, and run is late July to mid-September. He says boat ride upriver from the lodge, we wade- a number of other great dishes. Hot soups his group exercised the option to rent an fished all day. There was no fishing from and sandwiches were provided each day to outboard motor to get around easier. “We the boat. The wading was relatively easy, be eaten on the river. took it in the floatplane with us, along which was important because the four in “The two guides our group used, John with all the food and drink we needed,” he our group were all over 75, with one being and Jamie, were very experienced and writes. “In all, our group caught more than capable. They were also really pleasant 100 salmon weighing up to 15 pounds. fellows who were a pleasure to fish with. The weather was in the 60s most of the time, with at least some rain every day. As for how we fished, we float-fished, wade- Special Appeal for fished, trolled, and cast utilizing fly and Trip Reports spinning equipment” „„ The One of the most remark- In a follow-up call near press time, able things about The Angling Euard told us his group used Seawind Report is the extent to which it is Aviation (www.seawindaviation.com) in written by its subscribers. A full Ketchikan to get into the lake. He had pos- 80-plus percent of everything we itive things to say about the owner of the publish is either written by a sub- company, Steve Kamm, and his readiness scriber or inspired by a subscriber’s to help with gear and logistics. Indeed, call or brief note. And what’s not to when we called Kamm (877-225-1203) to like about that? Subscribers to this check some facts in Euard’s report, Kamm 80. We used 6 wt. rods and floating lines. publication know more about fish- said he routinely helps would-be visitors It was not advisable to use a rod any light- ing than anyone, including me, the select the right Forest Service cabin and er than that, we were told, because of the editor, and all of the outdoor writ- then buy supplies once they arrive in Ket- size of the rainbows. Also, the stream is lit- ers I have ever known. Seems An- chikan. “We—my wife and I—help callers erally full of spawning sockeye salmon at gling Report subscribers are all a sort out where to stay and then what to buy the time we were there. It was not unusual bit like Zane Grey, who decided to or rent when they arrive,” he told us. “We to have one bump your legs while wading. “go fishing in a big way” at some always recommend a satellite phone. And Not surprisingly, we all hooked three to point in their lives. I will always an outboard motor really comes in handy four sockeyes each day by accident, which be grateful to Angling Report sub- on fishing trips.” As for the cost of his was a real pain with a 6 wt. rod. Usually, scribers for the support they have service, he said it varies with the length of our guides hand-lined the salmon in and shown the publication. the flight needed to get to the lake. He said released them. We still had one rod broken That is a roundabout way to around $1,300 was the median price for a while fighting a sockeye. Other ancil- ask all of you to keep up the good flight with four persons and gear aboard. lary catch included some Dolly Varden, a work and send in a fresh wave of couple of pink salmon, and one grayling. Trip Reports. It does not matter „„ Still in Alaska, subscriber Pete Durno Incidentally, it is not really necessary to where you have fished. Alabama, has good things to say about a very differ- bring any leaders and flies on this trip, as Sudan, Newfoundland, Polynesia, ent approach to fishing up that way. His the guides furnish everything. England, Oregon . . . The list is trip was to Copper River Lodge, a top-of- “As for the lodge, the main building endless. Please send your reports the-line facility in the Iliamna Lake area. is situated on a hill overlooking the river. directly to me, Don Causey, at He writes: It has a good-sized living room, a kitchen, [email protected]. “Four of us from Michigan, Arizona, and a dining area. The lodge can accom- Thank you.

December 2016 -11- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT Manager Joe Hyde has been at the lodge forgot to order any, but there was so much one of the private waters he fished, where for 14 years. He lives there full-time, so he left over from previous fishermen that I the fish were mostly larger, upwards of 19 is a font of knowledge about almost every- did not suffer one bit. The bottom line is inches. The other waters he fished were thing related to the area and the fishery. He if you want to catch lots of really big rain- the Ruby River, Woodson Spring Creek, has a positive, can-do attitude and fills in bows and you don’t mind casting with a and the Madison River. He did a combina- as an excellent guide. Overall, the lodge is couple of split shot and a strike indicator, tion of wade fishing, floating fishing and superbly managed. this is a great place in all respects. Enjoy!” casting from shore. He lists the highlights “There are two side trips you can take Postscript: Pete Durno gives the cost of of his trip as: the lodge owners, the food, from the lodge. They were fun and very his trip for a Sunday to Saturday stay as and the size and strength of the early- productive, but the fishing was so good at $5,400 including everything but tips and season trout he caught. He gives the cost the lodge it is hard to say they produced of his multiday trip as $2,795. better fishing than we already had. “Getting to Copper River Lodge is „„ The Bow River, which flows right an experience in itself. It starts in Anchor- through the Town of Calgary, Alberta, is age, where you board Iliamna Air Taxi one of those great fishing spots that waxes for the hour-and-a-half trip to the Village and wanes in popularity, at least among of Iliamna, population 150. From there, Angling Report subscribers, who used to you take a 30-minute floatplane ride in a write about it frequently but of late haven’t Beaver aircraft built in 1952. It had a new weighed in on the stream at all. This past engine, we were told. The final leg of the month we did get a report, though, from trip is a 30-minute boat ride to the lodge. subscriber Nat Lawrence, who enjoyed Despite all this, we were fishing our first four days of what he called “phenomenal” day by 2 PM, and that was after a really rainbow and brown trout fishing there this nice lunch. past July. He says he fished with Dave “As to wildlife, we saw quite a few Brown Outfitters www.davebrownoutfit( - bears, all of which were more interested the Air Taxi, which cost $460. ters.com). He rates everything about the in catching salmon than catching us, for- trip as excellent, noting that many of the tunately. There were no close encounters „„ Subscriber Gary Woodward tells us browns and bows he caught measured during our stay. We also saw a number of he is very pleased with his stay at Healing more than 18 inches. “The rainbows were bald eagles and even a wolverine, which Waters Lodge in Montana (www.hwlodge. particularly acrobatic. They made very is apparently quite unusual. One thing to com) this past April. He gives the trip an long runs,” he writes. be aware of is that the lodge is “dry”—that all-excellent rating. He says rainbows and Lawrence gives the cost of a day of is, it is not allowed to sell alcohol. You are browns were abundant in all of the waters fishing with Dave Brown Outfitters as allowed to order alcohol, however, and/ he fished, with many of them in 16- to $600. He recommends the experience to or wine and have it shipped to the lodge. I 19-inch range, except on Wheat Ranch, fellow subscribers.

And Finally . . . Musings on Louisiana Redfishing by Don Causey

nglers who are fortunate giant Louisiana-size redfish on the fly. Egret, that I tow to Louisiana at least enough to be able to travel for Sighted fish only. No guide allowed. twice a year all the way from my home Atheir fishing tend go through Just me and the beast face-to-face. It’s in Miami with a Sprinter van config- periods when they want to catch a par- odd the way we all tend to complicate ured as an RV. The rig allows me to ticular fish more than any other in the our game as time goes on, no? just “sleep in the car” like a bum or find entire world. Permit inspire this kind of As I write this, I am slowly coming a VRBO. This kind of DIY fishing is passion in some anglers. So do tarpon. down from a near-month-long Loui- catching on like wildfire, incidentally, And bonefish, too, though that particu- siana high that saw me camped out at and you will be reading more about it in lar passion tends to strike early and then Shell Beach, which provides access to upcoming issues. moderate over time. Biloxi Marsh, and on the outskirts of At any rate, the main point of this My own particular passion at the Venice, the last highway stop along the missive is to tell you something new moment is the redfish. Not just any Mississippi River before it dumps the has arisen in the asteroid-size world of redfish, mind you, caught any old way. topsoil of the Midwest into the Gulf of Louisiana redfishing: FLY REFUSAL. What enthuses me is trying to catch Mexico. I have my own flats skiff, an I realize trout anglers reading this are

December 2016 -12- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT smirking at the idea that this is some- Amazon to make it come up. masses of them rolling almost as far as thing new anywhere in fishing, but it Here are some other worthy points you can see. They are extraordinarily really is in Louisiana redfishing. There about the evolving Louisiana fly scene: hard to catch, mind you, but that is a are difficult aspects of Louisiana red- • There is no longer a fly shop in New subject for another report. fishing, but getting a sighted fish to hit Orleans, where most Biloxi Marsh an- As for the redfishing here, given has not ever been one of them in my glers stay and where fly anglers headed the quality of the resource, it seems experience. Just find clear water, spot elsewhere in the state have long stocked odd, at first glance, that fly fishing has the beast, and throw! The challenge was up on flies and such. The nearest thing been so slow to reach this area. But the all in the first two steps. to a replacement is Olde Town Fly Shop more you learn about Venice the more Why that wasn’t so this year has in Slidell (www.oldetowneflyshop. you realize why. First, there is a lot of two possible explanations. First, it was a com). It’s across Lake Pontchartrain, muddy water around Venice. At times, very warm fall, way too warm, up there about 34 miles from downtown New that is about all there is around there. In in 80s day after day. Big reds like cooler Orleans, but the owner, Christian Daire, the best of conditions, you have to look water, and there was just not much of is a guide, and so are all of his employ- hard to find the kind of sight-fishing wa- that around the entire month of Octo- ees. I stopped at the shop myself and ter fly anglers like. ber. As I write this on November 7, I was impressed with the depth of every- The second reason fly fishing has just checked and the daily temperature one’s knowledge. Importantly, Christian been slow to develop in Venice is the there is still in the mid- to high 70s. The says he is able to overnight flies to any looming presence of the Mississippi other possible explanation is the amount hotel in New Orleans. The guys at Olde River. Pull Venice up on Google Earth of fishing pressure Louisiana redfish Town clued me in to the unusual effec- and you will quickly see that only a are seeing these days. The number of small fraction of the waters around guides launching their skiffs in Hoped- Venice are fishable without navigating ale nowadays, the most convenient across and/or down the river, and the place to access Biloxi Marsh, is some- simple fact is most fly fishing skiffs thing to behold. Perhaps even more im- are not appropriate for navigating the portant, all of the out-of-state enthusi- Mississippi. If you are invited to book asm for redfishing seems to be creating a fly fishing trip that departs from new interest on the part of Louisianans, Venice, be sure you ask if time on the who used to think it was crazy to chase open river will be involved. If the an- anything but seatrout (you can keep 25 swer is yes, ask to see a photograph of a day of those in Louisiana and only the skiff. My own skiff, an Egret, has five redfish a day). tiveness of poppers this past fall. They very high gunwales, and it has a 175 I incline toward the weather ex- also told me they tend to work only in Evinrude strapped to the back. Even planation for what was going on this the early morning. You need to abandon so, I never go out on the river without October, but perhaps there are other poppers sometime around mid-morning. my kill switch engaged and everyone in opinions? Eager to hear them at: don- Both pieces of advice were spot-on. the boat wearing lifejackets. I liken the [email protected]. The big • The state of Louisiana has literally challenge of being on the river in a skiff takeaway for me from this unexpected scores of places to go redfishing: Dulac, to landing an airplane. The wakes come difficulty was the need to get back to Theriot, Delacroix, Port Sulphur, West at you from every direction. Tankers basics when fashionable things aren’t Point à la Hache, Grand Isle, Cocodrie; and freighters and service boats abound. working. In this case, that meant aban- plus, it’s not widely known by visiting The latter deserve a bit more attention. doning all of those elaborate crab and anglers, but there is a road that runs Service boats look a bit like small shrimp flies that sell for up to $7 each down the east bank of the Mississippi tug boats, but they are heavy as lead and going back to a simple $3 char- three quarters of the way to Venice that and have gigantic engines in them that treuse-and-white Deceiver. It also meant offers access to a zillion acres of lightly push the things forward at unbeliev- using poppers for the first time, at least used redfishing. The mind reels at the able speed. The wake they create is a early in the morning. Interestingly, I prospect. good six feet high, and the individual got the idea for a chartreuse-and-white Looming over all of these places, waves are very close together and al- Deceiver from Pete Cooper Jr., whose including Biloxi Marsh, is Venice. Al- most straight up and down. Their wake book (Fly Fishing the Louisiana Coast) most certainly, this is where the largest is simply unmanageable in a flats boat, is one of the wisest outdoor books I’ve redfish are found in all of the states even my Egret. It will swamp you. Not read in a while. He knows whereof he bordering the Gulf of Mexico. Season- just on occasion either, but every single speaks. You can find the book on Ama- ally, there are also some of the largest time you try to cross it. Legally, service zon, but you will need to type the entire concentrations of tarpon anywhere in boats are responsible for their wake, and title of the book into the search line of the world. I’ve personally seen 50-acre most skippers stop for sportfishing craft.

December 2016 -13- Volume 29, Number 12 THE ANGLING REPORT It’s the ones that don’t that make the low- good—and safe—fly fishing around Ven- comes up to smack the top water lure, er passes so dangerous. They are almost ice. There are a couple of passes you can the client is urged to toss a fly or pop- certainly the single largest impediment reach without crossing the river and a per into the same spot. Not my favorite to the wider expansion of fly fishing out large area called the wagon wheel (looks idea, personally, but it apparently works. of Venice. In time, I am sure boat makers just like what it’s named for). On top of Some big reds are caught that way, I’m will come up with a skiff that will handle that is a sprawling body of water called told. So far, I have done all of my fishing this problem, but in the interim there is Yellow Cotton Bay. Full of redfish, I’m out of Venice on my own, so I have no just no safe way to fish the best waters told, but I know nothing about it. guide recommendations on the area. I’ll south of Venice in a reasonably pole- One technique I saw fly fishing remedy that next time I am there. In the able skiff. I include my boat in that point guides out of Venice using involves the meantime, weigh in if you have fished because my boat is not reasonably pole- guide tossing a noisy, hookless topwater with a recommendable guide out of able with a 175 hp engine on it. lure as he lets his skiff float across a like- Venice, Louisiana. Write: doncausey@ This does mean there isn’t some ly expanse of mud flat. When a big red anglingreport.com.

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