M A D A G A S C A R A W o r l d A p a r t S a t 0 8 N o v e m b e r - T u e 2 5 N o v e m b e r 2 0 1 4

Formerly a landlocked plateau in the centre of Gondwanaland, Madagascar became marooned when that ancient landmass split into the island continents of Australia, Antarctica, South America and Africa. Separated by the Mozambique Channel from Africa’s eastern coast about 65 million years ago, Madagascar developed in isolation. Its natural history is unique. The world’s fourth‐largest island is another Galápagos, referred to by some ecologists as ‘the eighth continent’. Eighty percent of Malagasy plants and animals are endemic, rivalling Brazil in its biodiversity. Archaeologists believe that people began to arrive in Madagascar from Indonesia/Malaya about 4000 years ago and although they have eliminated some species they haven’t dominated nature: there’s simply too much of it. Eight whole plant families exist only on Madagascar, as do over 1000 orchid species, many thousands of succulents, countless insects, at least 350 species of frog, around 400 kinds of reptile, five families of birds and approaching 215 different non‐marine mammals including lemurs, the prosimians who comprise an entire branch of the primate family tree, the order to which we ourselves belong.

Australian Museum Members offer interesting and worthwhile travel experiences. Madagascar will never be a low cost mass tourism destination: but it will be one you will never forget. Our itinerary has been carefully designed with input from leader Daniel Austin to showcase the array of animals and plants in Madagascar today. Fauna and flora, complex habitats and human colonisation all combine to make Madagascar a powerful and worthwhile travel experience.

Please consider joining us on Australian Museum Members Madagascar: A World Apart.

P R O G R A M L E A D E R

Fascinated by Madagascar from an early age, Daniel Austin’s initial curiosity about its botanical and zoological wonders quickly extended to geological, historical, linguistic and cultural aspects. A longstanding association with the island was born and over the past eight years Daniel has spent around 24 months exploring, researching, writing and photographing in Madagascar. As well as being co‐author (with Hilary Bradt) of Madagascar – The Bradt Travel Guide (easily the best guide to the island) and Madagascar Highlights, Daniel is founder of the Madagascar Library Project (www.madagascar‐library.com), a committee member of the Anglo‐Malagasy Society and co‐ author of another Bradt publication Madagascar Wildlife Guide. When not in Madagascar, Daniel is based in the UK. He is looking forward to sharing his knowledge, experience and insights with AMM participants on this comprehensive tour of Madagascar, The Red Island. .

AMM Madagascar: A World Apart 2014

Itinerary a block of moist montane forest extremely rich in flora and fauna, reputably containing a higher number of frog species

than any other comparable rainforest. We arrive and check

into Grace Lodge for a two night stay. Andasibe ‐ Mantadia

NP has an eerie Lac Vert (Green Lake) and an orchid garden.

But the undisputed highlight of the park is the Indri indri,

standing about a metre high, almost tail‐less and the largest

of the lemur family. When David Attenborough came

searching for Indris in the late 1950s he spent several days plodding through the forest and listening to their raucous call before catching a glimpse of them. Nowadays, Andasibe visitors who get an early start will almost certainly observe them at fairly close range. Optimum time is about an hour after daybreak. The remainder of the afternoon is spent acclimatising ourselves to the Andasibe experience and beginning our exploration. Dinner tonight at Grace Lodge. (B L D)

Day#4 Tue 11 Nov 14 Andasibe ‐ Mantadia NP

Day#1 Sat 08 Nov 14 Sydney ‐ Bangkok ‐ Antananarivo Our Thai Airways flight TG476 departs Sydney at 11h00 and arrives in Bangkok at 16h20. Here we change to Air Madagascar flight MD11 which departs at 17h30 and arrives in Antananarivo at 22h05. We are met and transferred to our Tana base, the Rova Hotel. ( Meals in flight )

Day#2 Sun 09 Nov 14 Antananarivo Low key day with a city tour of Antananarivo (commonly called ‘Tana’) accompanied by Daniel Austin and our National Guide Jean Jacques Randriamanindry. Lemurs Park Full day in Andasibe – Mantadia NP with our guides. There and the Queens Palace are included. Lunch at the Lokanga are nine species of lemur in Andasibe although we will not Hotel and welcome dinner this evening at our hotel. (B L D) see them all. It is worthwhile going on a nocturnal lemur hunt (the Park guides are expert at this) to look for mouse Day#3 Mon 10 Nov 14 lemurs and the greater dwarf lemur which hibernate during Antananarivo ‐ Andasibe ‐ Mantadia NP the cold season. Of course, other exquisite creatures are to be found in Andasibe: there are spiny and furred tenrecs, beautiful and varied insects and spiders as well as lots of reptiles. Parson’s Chameleon, bright green and, at half a metre long one of Madagascar’s (and the world’s)largest, lives here. Here also is one of the smallest chameleons, Calumma nasutum. This is additionally a great place for birdwatching. Lunch again at Feon’ny Ala; dinner this evening at our lodge. (B L D)

Day#5 Wed 12 Nov 14 Andasibe ‐ Tana ‐ Antsirabe Our road journey through the centre begins. We return to Tana (approximately 4 hours) and then proceed south along the Route Nationale 7 (RN7) which bisects the southern part of the island; along the way we see Merina tombs and labour‐intensive rice paddy cultivation. After about three hours (169km) of varied highland scenery we arrive in After breakfast we drive the 140 kilometres (which will take Antsirabe. Founded by Norwegian missionaries in 1872 as a about three and a half hours) to Andasibe ‐ Mantadia health retreat, Antsirabe later became popular with French National Park, stopping en route at Marozevo for a short colons as both a spa town and a hill station. Elegant and visit of Pereyras private reserve and at Andasibe village for a sprawling Antsirabe, at 1500 metres altitude, is a cool look at typical Malagasy village life. We lunch at Feon’ny contrast from Tana. After a visit to nearby turquoise Lake Ala, close to the park entrance. Formerly known by its colonial name of Périnet Reserve, Andasibe ‐ Mantadia NP is

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AMM Madagascar: A World Apart 2014

Tritriva, we check into the Cristal Hotel. Antsirabe is known studio of famous photographer Pierrot Men we continue for gemstones and has a thriving handicrafts sector; we will our trek to the south, passing through vineyards and explore some workshops and the central city during the terraced rice paddies. We pass the giant rock formation afternoon. This is the ‘pousse‐pousse’ (rickshaw) capital of Tanan’Andriamanitra (‘Hand of God’) which marks the Mada and hundreds of them abound. Lunch is en route at beginning of some of the finest mountain scenery in Pineta restaurant at Ambatolampy and dinner is at our Madagascar. We soon arrive for lunch and a walk in the hotel. (B L D) favourite highlands town of Ambalavao. Ambalavao is the home of the famous Malagasy Antaimoro paper, a papyrus‐ Day#6 Thu 13 Nov 14 Antsirabe ‐ Ranomafana NP type of paper impregnated with dried flowers. The scenery Visit some of Antsirabe’s artisan workshops before beyond Ambalavao is spectacular with huge granite domes continuing down the RN7. Today our destination is dominating grassy plains. Along the way we stop at the Anja Ranomafana National Park, a drive of 350 kilometres, some Reserve with its interesting Betsileo history, unusual plants sections over poor quality road. We leave behind dry and more cheeky ringtail lemurs. We proceed to our highland vegetation and move into greenery, flowers and isolated but comfortable accommodation at Camp Catta, stands of virgin rainforest. En route, after about two and a dramatically located in the valley between Tsaranoro half hours, we will stop and lunch (at the Artisan Hotel Mountain (800m) on one side and the mountain chains of accompanied by valiha playing Malagasy musicians) at Andringitra National Park on the other. Army style truck Ambositra, a great place to buy handicrafts. Ranomafana transfer is required for the last hour up the very rough National Park was created in 1991 and is particularly rich in access track. (B L D) wildlife. Here you may be lucky and see three species of bamboo lemur (out of the four found in Madagascar). The Day#9 Sun 16 Nov 14 Tsaranoro Valley ‐ Isalo NP most common is the lesser bamboo lemur which you may Morning spent exploring the spectacular Tsaranoro Valley. have already seen in Andasibe. The greater bamboo lemur Visit the Sacred Forest, an easy walk which will take you into is very rare and only known in two locations and you may an area inhabited by catta lemurs, to a waterfall, a natural find them by hearing the crack of big bamboo stems as they swimming pool, and nearby Barabory villages. The Barabory feed. The star of Ranomafana is the golden bamboo lemur live a traditional, rustic Malagasy life, with the weather, the which was only discovered in 1986 (researchers were trying sun and the rice harvest keeping time. After lunch we leave to find the greater bamboo lemur). A diet of bamboo tips the mountains and experience the transition to the containing cyanide may be responsible for their golden fur. Horombe Plains. Ihosy (pronounced ‘ee‐oosh’), capital of The largest lemur in the park is the elusive Milne‐Edwards the Bara homeland, is reached after about five hours and sifaka, often spotted high up in the forest canopy. You we continue the additional 97 kilometres to the small town should also look out for red‐bellied lemur which live in of Ranohira, the base for visitors to Isalo National Park. The couples with their offspring and red‐fronted brown lemur Isalo National Park contains interesting wildlife – lemurs, which live in large groups. Ranomafana is a birding hotspot other mammals and birds – plus rare endemic plants but but finding birds in the dense forest can be very tricky ‐ an these are not the main reason for a visit. The Isalo Massif early morning start is essential. Evening nocturnal visits are extends over thousands of hectares and, over millenia, wind organised here where bananas are offered to lure the and rain have cut the sandstone into ravines, labyrinths, mouse lemur and meat to hopefully attract the striped grottoes, cliffs, gorges and canyons, a landscape locally civet. Numerous geckos, chameleons, frogs and butterflies known by the French term ‘ruiniforme’. We stop here for are also on hand. Our accommodation and evening meal is two nights at Hotel Orchinée d’Isalo, in the centre of the at Centre Est Sejour, nicely located in Ranomafana village village. (B L D) overlooking the Namorona River and with all facilities. (B L D)

Day#7 Fri 14 Nov 14 Ranomafana NP Day and torchlight nocturnal walks continue in the Park with our guides. There are standard routes in the forest, most taking a few hours. Animals are the main attraction but the vegetation is thick, varied and spectacular: orchids, tree ferns, palms and thick groundcover mingle with an impressive variety of flowering plants and groves of bamboo. Another night and dinner at Centre Est Sejour. (B PL D)

Day#8 Sat 15 Nov 14 Ranomafana NP – Fianarantsoa ‐ Ambalavao ‐ Tsaranoro Valley We depart Ranomafana and continue along the RN7. We soon reach Fianarantsoa (‘place of good learning’). Founded in 1830 as the administrative capital of Betsileo, Fianar is built on a hill, like a small‐scale Antananarivo, with an attractive Upper Town. After exploring and visiting the

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AMM Madagascar: A World Apart 2014

with some travellers. Most agree after their visit that Day#10 Mon 17 Nov 14 Isalo NP Berenty is an undeniably magical place, a key destination Full day for guided exploration at Isalo NP The spectacular and, for many, an important Madagascar memory. Berenty physical environment creates a special atmosphere, was established in 1936 by sisal planter, Henri de Heaulme, reminiscent of Australia’s Bungle Bungle region. (B PL D) who felt that a stand of gallery forest along the banks of the Mandrare River was worth preserving for its own sake. The reserve has now passed to his son Jean de Heaulme. Here we stay at Berenty Lodge. Berenty means ‘many eels’ but lemurs are what most people come here for: brown lemur, ring‐tailed lemur and Verreaux’s sifaka. But there’s much more and one of Berenty’s most enjoyable features is its selection of broad forest trails that allow safe exploration on your own, both during daylight and at night. Many of the creatures are nocturnal and in the evening are easy to spot with a torch. (B L D)

Day#15 Sat 22 Nov 14 Berenty Private Reserve Full day in the Reserve. An ideal opportunity for some great photographs as these lemurs are highly photogenic and are often only a few metres away. Throughout the day a variety of pleasant walks are possible throughout the Reserve and along the banks of the river; a variety of night walks are also Day#11 Tue 18 Nov 14 available with the possibility of spotting the white‐footed Isalo NP ‐ Zombitse NP ‐ Toliara ‐ Ifaty sportive lemur and also the grey mouse lemur. Other Depart Isalo National Park and proceed towards Toliara on interests in the Reserve include flying foxes, nearly 100 the west coast, a journey of about four hours. Dramatic different species of birds and also one of the best arid landscapes start becoming apparent. The ethnological museums on the island. (B L D) extraordinary sapphire mining settlement of Ilakaka, with its Wild West atmosphere, is visited along the way. Some Day#16 Sun 23 Nov 14 Berenty ‐ Antananarivo charming villages, home to the Mahafaly and Antandroy After breakfast we drive back to Fort Dauphin and connect people, can be seen en route plus an impressive number of with our Air Madagascar flight back to Tana. Lunch is at La painted roadside tombs. We experience Zombitse NP and, Chaumière restaurant before checking in to the Hotel Rova. closer to Toliara, we visit and lunch at the Arboretum (B L D) d’Antsokay, established in 1980 by Swiss‐born botanist Hermann Pétignat. Soon afterwards Toliara’s table Day#17 Mon 24 Nov 14 Antananarivo ‐ Bangkok mountain, La Table, looms on our right and stands of Free time before early afternoon transfer to Tana airport for baobab trees start to be seen; we drive on to Ifaty and our flight to Bangkok with Air Madagascar flight MD10 check in to Hotel Ikotel, our accommodation on the lagoon departing at 16h40. (B) beach. (B L D) Day#18 Tue 25 Nov 14 Bangkok ‐ Sydney Day#12 Wed 19 Nov 14 Ifaty Arrive Bangkok at 05h05. Connect with Thai Airways flight A morning visit is scheduled to Reniala Baobab Forest, noted TG471 departing at 08h15 and arriving in Sydney at 21h35. for its spiny forest, birdlife and about a thousand Adansonia (Meals in flight) rubrostipa baobabs. Lunch is own arrangements followed by a low key afternoon for relaxation after your RN7 road trip. Dinner at our hotel. (B D)

Day#13 Thu 20 Nov 14 Ifaty ‐ Antananarivo Optional activities in the Ifaty area before early evening flight to Tana and the Rova Hotel. (B D)

Day#14 Fri 21 Nov 14 Antananarivo ‐ Fort Dauphin – Berenty Private Reserve After breakfast we transfer to Tana airport for our morning Air Madagascar flight to Taolagnaro (more commonly known as Fort Dauphin), beautifully sited on a small peninsula. We are met and transferred along a spectacular road for 89 kilometres to a key destination – the renowned Berenty Private Reserve, en route seeing typical flora such as pitcher plants and rare triangle palms, tombs and villages. The concept of a private reserve may sit uneasily

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GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIAL BOOKING CONDITIONS

Cost per person, twin-share $7995.00 FORCED CANCELLATION: In the event that passenger numbers do not reach the minimum Single room supplement $895.00 number of tour participants (approximately 10 excluding the tour leader) required for the tour, it may be necessary to either surcharge TOUR PRICE INCLUDES: or cancel the tour. If such an event does occur, you will be notified  Economy class air travel with Thai Airways and Air at least 60 days prior to the tour departure.

Madagascar from Sydney to Antananarivo via Bangkok and TRAVEL INSURANCE: return Comprehensive travel insurance covering you for your entire travel  Air Madagascar economy class air travel within Madagascar arrangements but in particular medical evacuation and cancellation  All applicable passenger and airport taxes charges detailed on this page is compulsory. A comprehensive travel  16 nights twin-share accommodation in comfortable hotels insurance policy is available from Heritage Destinations. with private facilities as indicated in the itinerary or of a similar PASSPORT AND VISAS: standard Australian passport holders require a visa for a stay in Madagascar  Meals as shown in the itinerary: B signifies breakfast; for up to 28 days. This must be issued in Australia before your L signifies lunch; PL signifies picnic lunch; D signifies dinner departure and the visa cost is $80.00. Your passport should be valid  All transfers, entrance fees and sightseeing as per the itinerary for six months beyond the end of your journey. It should have two  All applicable tipping for group arrangements with the clear pages for each country to be visited to allow for entry and exit exception of the Malagasy National Guide stamps en route or for any visas applicable for other countries in your  Services of program leader Daniel Austin plus professional journey. We will provide you with visa application forms and advice English speaking Malagasy National Guide in Madagascar. regarding obtaining your visa.

NB depending on group numbers, our Malagasy National TOUR PRICE: Guide may not accompany the group to Berenty Private The tour price has been calculated on the basis of existing costings, Reserve. arrangements, exchange rates and tariffs valid at the time of print  Program Handbook (June 2014) and is subject to change up until your final payment has

NOT INCLUDED: been invoiced. Once your final invoice has been issued and payment subsequently received, no surcharges will apply. Travel Insurance  Should you decide to cancel your tour on the basis on a change of  Items of personal nature (telephone, laundry, drinks etc) price, normal cancellation charges will apply.  Visa Fee FINAL DOCUMENTATION: All documentation will be ready approximately four weeks prior to your I’M INTERESTED...HOW DO I BOOK? tour departure. If you are leaving Australia earlier, please advise us so Complete, sign and return the enclosed Heritage we can prepare all your final documentation before your departure. Destinations Travel Booking Form with your deposit of $500 per person. Upon receipt of your Booking Form and PERSONAL FITNESS LEVEL: deposit, you will receive a confirmation of your place. Participants should be prepared for easy to moderate walking on uneven pavements, tracks and paths and sometimes extended DEPOSIT AND FINAL PAYMENT: standing at indoor and outdoor sites. On occasions, steep stair The deposit is accepted as a first instalment of the tour cost and will be climbing may be required at some sites, but usually is not compulsory. fully refunded if the arrangements cannot be confirmed or the tour is Contact Heritage Destinations for discussion if required. cancelled by Australian Museum Members. Final payment for the tour needs to be received at least 60 days prior We draw your attention to the Department of Foreign Affairs and to tour departure. We will send you an invoice before this date. Trade website www.dfat.gov.au which contains relevant information regarding travel to Madagascar. AMENDMENTS: If you would like Heritage Destinations to assist you with any add-on travel arrangements pre or post tour, please advise us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Any changes to travel arrangements within 30 days may incur an amendment fee of AUD30, plus any charges imposed by our suppliers.

CANCELLATION AND REFUNDS: Should you decide to cancel your booking up to 60 days prior to departure, your deposit is forfeited.

Because of the tour cancellation charges imposed by our various suppliers, the additional cancellation charges apply: For further information contact Ray Boniface Global Links Pty Ltd trading as If you cancel 59 - 30 days prior to departure 25% of tour cost If you cancel within 30 days prior to departure 100% of tour cost H E R I T A G E D E S T I N A T I O N S If a difference occurs between these cancellation conditions and those PO Box U237 University of Wollongong NSW 2500 Australia imposed by our suppliers, then the conditions of the supplier shall p: +61 2 4228 3887 m: 0409 927129 apply. There is no refund before or after travel has commenced or for e: [email protected] any unused portion of the tour, either in regard to the standard group ABN 21 071 079 859 Lic No TAG1747 arrangements or separate independent arrangements.