PASSIONS I LIFE

THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS The best DJs the greatest clubs

ALT.MALTA B leeding-edge art & graveyard gigs; THESpIAN HERITAGE & delap-chic

HOT FASHION Me diterranean drama with a fierce hipster spin CULTURE CLUBBING C aravaggio & Courtesans; 7000 years in thirty minutes

ISLE OF MTV The epic free party this year headlined by Kelis, KID ROCK & Scissor Sisters!

CONTENTS

04/ INTRODUCTION 06/ THE ISLANDS 08/ TICKET TO RIDE

11/ THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLAND 12/ MALTA MUSIC WEEK 14/ NIGHT LIVES 16/ VENUES

20/ CULTURE CLUBBING 28/ 10 MINUTE HISTORY LESSON

30/ ALT.MALTA 36/ GOZO/COMINO 38/ CUISINE

42/ PEOPLE ALEXANDRA PACE CHARLES & RON CHASING PANDORA KRIS MICALLEF IRA LOSCO

50/ FASHION STORY:LAZY DAZE 66/ RESOURCES

MASTHEAD/ PUBLISHED BY M Usic HQ MEDIA AGENCY [email protected] IN ASSOCIATION WITH TEMLH A TA TOURISM AUTHORITY WWW M .VisiT ALTA.COM

ALL CREATIVE WORK BY & © THE MHQMA CREATIVE TEAM EDITED BY MICHAEL C LEWIN ART DIRECTION / HIDDEN AGENCY DESIGN / THOMASIN ARNOLD-BAKER

THANKS / HEIDI DRUMMOND / CARINA DIMECH / ALEXIA MAGGI /ALEX INCORVAJA / CLIVE CORTIS / SEB LAW / BILL H / ED BREAKENRIDGE / AIR MALTA

All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of Music HQ Ltd.

Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in this publication at time of print; however, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors it may contain nor those contained on external third party resources. The views expressed are those of the editorial team and are not necessarily those of the publishers. I nSPIRED by and in love with the beautiful archipelago in the heart of the Mediterranean, MALTA LIVE isb a rAND new print and digital music, fashion and culture magazine led by the driving principle LIVE that today we want to alta is a young and bubbly country with 7000 combine the e upHORIA of M years of history; it’s home to the beautiful, partying a wbrOAD ith the the crazy creatives and the leading lights of a new generation eager for change, but also to the perfect soul-tickling goodness of stillness of aeons of history and the calm of stunning cu ult rAL endeavours. architecture. Best of all, it’s home to one of the Wewn a t to enjoy the heady, most euphoric club scenes in the world, three tiny fulsome, excited lives we islands rammed with up-for-it locals, amazing open lead in cities and on city air venues and host to the best and biggest DJs and breaks; but we want a artists around. For anyone who loathes the wasted gorgeous climate and a days of other Med party holidays where you sit and kinder pace. recover and wait for the next adventure, Malta will seem like salvation. Malta Live shows you what to dream of doing; we’ll also show you how to get there this summer.

04 CULTURE CLUBBING / THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLAND ALT.MALTA MALTA LIVE ONLINE

I t’s the blissful and on the beach and then There’s no better cure ML A TA Live can be read perfect combination getting ready to hit a for what ails you after a online at of sun, sea and and a fresh town for a few long night’s party than www.maltalive.co.uk, smattering of tunes drinks and a late night to be out and doing. We where you’ll find a that make for the of banging tunes in the can’t enthuse enough cutting edge digital perfect party island. fresh air. Malta and her about the variety on offer version of this magazine, There’s nothing quite sister islands, Gozo in this compact little along with scores of like coming back from and Camino, have all place: 7,000 Years amazing benefits, such a sun-drenched day’s of this in spades. And OF HISTORY can be as: exploration, gentle it’s not just a few tiny taken in ten minutes; a grazing on some fresh basements and some 30 minute drive can see Downloadable Mixes seafood, or just lazing bottles of cheap beer; you go from bustling Malta’s clubbing scene cosmopolitan Valletta, Event Reaction – Videos & Photos features top-rate venues with its T Hriving Interactive Holiday Planning and stellar artist line- ARTS SCENE and ups to rival the biggest AS TOnishing Regularly Updated Live Listings cities in the world. MALTA ARCHITECTURE, to for the Summer Season MUSIC WEEK is the the other end of the Interactive Flash Artworks Mediterranean island’s island, where you might showcase event, with enjoy fantasies of Regular New Interviews and input from big players Mediterranean noble Features like MINISTRY OF SOUND, living in the PALAZ Z O Get live with CREAMFIELDS and ISLE PARISIO, the mini- WWW.MALTALIVE.CO.UK OF MTV, but there’s Versailles. It’s the life FOLLOWS U HERE: plenty of events across you love to lead in your the season to keep your cities or on city breaks, WWWTI . W T ER.COM/MaltaLive summer as blissed out but with clubs and sun as possible. Turn to thrown in. Oh yeah, and WWW.MALTALIVE.TUMBLR.COM out Nightlife section to some A MAZIng FOOD, discover more. too. But what will you wear? Our gorgeous shoot shows you how to enjoy a LAD ZY AZE. A QUICK INTRODUCTION TO THE ISLANDS GOZO Wi th aLL the islands’ joys available within A SHORT DISTANCE OF EACH OTHER, you’ll get to know and love it quickly. Here are some VICTORIA quick pointers about where to go. MGARR

1 2 VALLETTA THREE CITIES

Malta’s capital is its cultural hub and a Across the Grand Harbour from Valletta are Renaissance city as beautiful as any in the the Three Cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Mediterranean, built by the Knights after their Cospicua. Their streets are settled with the victory over the Ottoman Turks. From derelict quiet peace of history, narrow cobbled streets chic backstreets to grand palaces, the city contained within the fortified walls indicative has it all, as well as art centre St James of their status as first line of defence Cavalier. Designed as a grid, on main drag against the Ottomans. They have a pleasantly Republic Street you’ll see shopkeepers stopping mature wine bar culture in the evenings and to chat with locals as the world meanders by, are perfect for strolls to enjoy traditional shopping. At night, it is appealingly calm, Maltese character. with vibrant theatre and wine bar culture.

3 4 ST JULIAN’S & PACEVILLE SLIEMA

If Valletta is Malta’s heart, St Julian’s is Sliema is Malta’s modern face, a bustling its party-hard soul. Nightlife centre Paceville seaside town crammed with cafes, restaurants bounces every night to 4am with bars for and shops, including the just-opened hyper- someone of every taste, the streets rippling modern Tigne Point shopping complex. From its with happy pretty people. Gorgeous restaurants rocky beaches and cafes you can look out to the cover the peninsula’s coastline, which itself Mediterranean or across the bay to see Valletta offers beautiful views of quaint boathouses church domes in dramatic silhouette. The main and blue waters. Most important of all is the reason for visiting Sliema, though, is for that atmosphere, a fresh, young, modern vibe which taste of modern living and all its attendant happily compliments the gorgeous antiquity commercial pleasures: great food and good elsewhere. clothes shopping.

5 6 MDINA & RABAT GOZO & COMINO

‘Silent City’ Mdina is an ancient town enclosed Gozo and Comino are Malta’s tranquil sister by bastions, today protecting the historical islands. Gozo’s landscape is beautiful, and architectural treasures it contains in its dotted with churches and villages clustered narrow, winding streets. Blink and you’ll miss around them. It’s capital, Victoria, has the the delightful restaurants tucked away in its Cittadella, an astonishing medieval fortified alleys. Rabat sits next to it, with fantastic town, sitting up the hill above it and offering wine bars and cafes, both on top of a hill views of the entire island’s expanse of rolling near the island’s centre, offering unparalleled hills. Comino’s deep azure lagoon is one of the views of the whole Maltese countryside in every most breathtaking in the Med. Both islands are direction. filled with the pleasures of a Mediterranean lifestyle seemingly lost in the distant past; a rural, slow, passive life, soaked with sun and 06 stillness. GOZO 6

VICTORIA MALTA 6 MGARR COMINO 9

8 10

MELLIEHA MALTA 3 4 5 1

RABAT ValLetta

2 LUQA MARSAXLOKK 7

OTHER NOTABLES

7 BLUE GroTTO An amazing cave to the south of the island with dazzling deep blue waters.

8 POPEYE VILLAGE The full village set built for the 80s Hollywood Popeye film stands here in all its glory. Hilarious, and an amazing location for a party.

9 PARADISE Bay The best place to see a sunset on the island, looking out east across the Mediterranean and with Gozo and Comino up to the north.

10 buggiba The largest resort area in the island is rammed with bars, hotels and apartment complexes. Lively in season. Nearby St Paul’s Bay is beautiful and has great wine bars. TICKET TO RIDE

andwiched between the southern tip of Europe S and the northern tip of Africa, the three islands that comprise the Maltese archipelago (Malta, Gozo and Comino) are a hop, skip and a jump away – or just a 3-hour flight if you prefer. The compact nature of the islands combined with efficient and reasonably-priced infrastructure means that you won’t be trapped on airless coaches for hours, thus maximising beach, pool and party time.

AIRWAYS TO HEAVEN I GET AROUND

A ir Malta BUS TAXI

Flying the flag for the Maltese buses are Taxis are similarly country, Air Malta bright orange, very easy; the white operates an extensive cheap and keep things cabs pick up schedule of up to 16 simple: all routes passengers from weekly flights from R yanair depart from and return anywhere (except Heathrow, and up to the main terminus bus-stops), and all to 14 a week from With daily flights in Valletta. There’s services from the Gatwick. Manchester from London Luton also an express airport are based on a is served daily in and three a week service linking the fixed tariff Summer and Birmingham from Dublin, Ryanair principal resorts with international served has recently added Sliema, Marsaxlokk, twice Weekly year direct routes from Mdina, the Three round. Charter flights Bristol and Edinburgh, Cities and the main ferry are also operated and new twice- sandy beaches. by Air Malta from weekly routes from A regular ferry Bristol, Cardiff, Leeds Bradford and service for cars and Norwich, Newcastle and Bournemouth started up foot passengers links Exeter. in March 2010. Malta to Gozo, taking about 25 minutes each www. AirMALTA.com www.ryanair.com way.

E asyJet B MI Baby Flies directly from seaplane wa ter taxi

Gatwick, Manchester BMI Baby has just and Newcastle and opened a new route A sea plane service A water taxi service Liverpool. this year departing links Grand Harbour in using traditional Tuesdays and Saturdays Valletta, and from the Maltese ‘dghajsa’ www.easyjet.com from East Midlands. international airport boats is available in to Mgarr Harbour in Grand Harbour. 08 www.bmibaby.com Gozo. flights from HEATHROW, GATWICK, MANCHESTER, BIRMINGHAM 99 FOR RESERVATIONS MALTA’S LARGEST CALL US WWW.GIANPULA.COM OPEN AIR +356 99472133 VENUE THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

here’s no greater need to be affordable Ministry and Creamfields T moment than when and the people need to have all established that banger drops late be great; the venues parties equal to any into the night – in the have to be top rate and other across Europe and open air, surrounded by the artists stellar; and everyone from Gaga to the young, the beautiful most of all, it needs to Sanchez have proclaimed and the up for it, the be in a place you can a bit of their heart remains of the day’s lose your heart too. has gone over to these heat combined with a Malta and her sister beautiful, unassuming comforting cool, slap- islands Gozo and Comino islands. You need to find bang in the middle have it all with some out why this summer. of the perfect party to spare. Their renown holiday. So much needs is growing around the to come together to make world as the place to this happen – prices party: Isle of MTV, 1 1 THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

THE MAIN EVENT

MALTA MUSIC WEEK 2010 JUNE 25—30 2010

alta’s back, this year looks for a party like no M spectacular set to be bigger, other. Get yourself FEA TUring: shindig returns for better and ballsier: booked up now! Keep

ISLEFMT O V MALTA its fourth annual Ministry takes over checking back to SPECIAL WITH KELIS, outing. Already firmly open-air super-club MaltaLive.co.uk for KID ROCK & SCISSOR SISTERS established on the Gianpula with Calvin new announcements, summer party calendar Harris making his build-up and fall-out M Y InisTR OF SOUND @ after an immense third debut; Creamfields throughout the summer, GIANPULA WITH CAL VIN HARRIS, JOHANNES time out saw Gaga, brings the mash-up with mixes, vids and HEIL & DASH BERLIN the Black Eyed Peas, festival in a national pics making a multi- CREA MFielDS MALTA WITH Roger Sanchez and park and the MFCC; media bomb blowing up ERIC PRYDZ, FERRY more blow locals and and MTV’s pop-dance in your face. CORSTEN, PETE TONG & DUBFIRE NA D LoaDS travelling revellers extravaganza takes MORE into the heavens and over Il Fosos Square THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

THE SCHEDE UL

FRIDAY 25TH JUNE

G 7 FriDAys @ GIANPULA

FEAU T RING: SPECIAL GUEST INNA AND TOP MALTESE DJS TONY TONY, PIERRE CORDINA AND J JOY

Glam up and get down to Malta’s biggest and most famous al fresco party destination – celebrating its 30th anniversary and having been voted the best spot in Malta by the MOS this year, Gianpula is in the mood for a big one and is the obvious choice to kick MMW into action. The well- heeled locals always keep their Fridays free for G7’s weekly outpouring of smash after smash, keeping the dancefloors filled. www.gianpula.com

Doors: 11pm—4am Money Matters: €6 Grin/Gurn: Big cheesy grin Sweat Factor: Hot but not bothered

SATURDAY 26th JUNE

M Y InisTR OF SOUND FESTIVAL 2010 @ GIANPULA

MAIN AREA: CALVIN HARRIS AND MARK NIGHT TECH/PROG AREA: JOHANNES HEIL AND GUY J DEEP & TECH HOUSE AREA: MIGZ & GLANVILLE AND CLAYTON SANE VELOCITY TRANCE AREA: DASH BERLIN AND KATE LOUISE SMITH

The Maltese’s favourite event of 2009 returns in 2010: a full-on mash-up of genres from tech house to trance will ensure that everyone’s taste is met and expectations exceeded. Upcoming prog monster Guy J goes with Johannes Heil in the tech and prog area, while Migz & Glanville are sure to make it capital D-Deep in the Deep & Tech House area; most requested Trance artist ever Dash Berlin is sure to set the locals on fire, especially partnered with See the Sun vocalist Kate Louise Smith; but the sure-to-be-spectacular talking point is genuine genius Calvin Harris making his super-hyped debut on the island in the main area. Guaranteed raver’s delight. www.clubbersevent.com

Doors: 8pm—4am Money Matters: €25 Grin/Gurn: BOTH IN EQUAL MEASURES Sweat Factor: Supernova

THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

SATURDAY 26th JUNE

LA T GroT A, GOZO

FEAU T RING: FEATURING: SOON TO BE ANNOUNCED TOP INTERNATIONAL ACT AND TOP LOCALS PIERRE CORDINA, TONY TONY & J JOY

The mouth-dropping beauty of Gozitan club La Grotta makes it rightly regarded as one of the most astonishing in the Mediterranean. Loads of dance areas are scattered around a cliff side, with the main spot pushed back into a cave; lights make the opposing cliffside come to dramatic life, offering a vision unparalleled at any venue we’ve ever been to. Any opportunity to sample the awesome atmosphere at an event here is not to be missed; the turbo-charged Malta Music Week event is going to make it a night to talk about for a long time yet.

Doors: 10pm—4am Money Matters: €10 Grin/Gurn: Slack-jawed delight at the view and the vibes Sweat Factor: Al fresco chills

SUNDAY 27TH JUNE

ML A TA USIC WEEK LIVE CONCERT @ BUGIBBA

FEAU T RING: TOP LOCAL BANDS & DJS

A chance to sample the thriving local music scene, whether your taste goes for deep house or dirty blues, in a carnival-esque atmosphere at the Bugibba Square. The lush seafront will be transformed into a live music arena, while the good times will be heightened by street artists like fire jugglers delighting and amazing. Definitely a good cool-down after what was sure to be a big night before. www.g7events.com

Doors: 9pm—12am Money Matters: Free Grin/Gurn: Delighted grin Sweat Factor: Cool down THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

MONDAY 28TH JUNE

CREA MFielDS MALTA 2010 – MFCC, TA’ QALI

FEAU T RING: FEATURING: ERIC PRYDZ, FERRY CORSTEN, PETE TONG, DUBFIRE, DAVE CLARKE, NIC FANCIULLI, DAVIDE SQUILLACE & LOCAL DJS TBC

Creamfields is back in Malta with a BANG – a recession-busting, big- name blasting bang at that. The world’s greatest dance festival is plotting an explosive party this year, with no expense spared to bring the biggest and best names to the island. The names alone are enough to set you off on dreams of dancing: Dutch Trance titan Corsten is back by popular demand, so you know that the locals will go off as only they can; dancefloor dominating superstar Prydz is not to be missed while Dubfire brings the know how that saw him win a Grammy as half of Deep Dish. With the full genre spectrum from Trance, House, Prog, Tech-House and Techno all filled, there’s something for everyone and everyone’s going home sweaty and happy. www.creammalta.com

Doors: 6pm—4am Money Matters: €35-45 Grin/Gurn: Supermassive Grin Sweat Factor: You’ll need hosing down after this one

TUESDAY 29TH JUNE

LIVEM Usic @ PACEVILLE

FEAU T RING: TOP LOCAL BANDS & DJS

MMW just wouldn’t be complete without taking in the islands’ nightlife hotspot Paceville in St Julians. The esoteric streets of the peninsula, usually paved with party kids on the wild weekends, will take on a different flavour as live music from Malta’s top artists and upcoming talent bring you back from the post-Creamfields blues. The huge array of bars of every kind will doubtless ensure fun will be had—and it’s a chilled way to build up to the big one tomorrow… www.g7events.com

Doors: 9pm—12am Money Matters: Free Grin/Gurn: Eager grins waiting for tomorrow Sweat Factor: Nada ISLE OF MTV MALTA SPECIAL

30th JUNE 2010

ERT VE Y HING ABOUT ISLE OF MTV: MALTA SPECIAL IS IMMENSE. THE BIGGEST OPEN AIR FREE CONCERT IN EUROPE, SUPERSTAR ARTISTS, AN INCREDIBLE LOCATION AND A EUPHORIC, UP-FOR-IT AUDIENCE COMBINE TO REDEFINE YOUR IDEA OF SPECTACULAR. IT IS THE UNMISSABLE EVENT OF THE SUMMER.

Taking place for the blackening sky. All is something else. Not Sisters will go head fourth consecutive year anticipation. And then: only did it see a huge to head with fearsome in Il Fosos Square, some of the world’s set from the Black Eyed innovatrix Kelis, with known locally as the biggest artists will Peas, but the undisputed two more massive artists Granaries, ISLE OF MTV take to the stage to an queen of pop, la Gaga, also due to be announced could make a pretty explosion of ecstasy, returned for the second in short order. It’s could case for itself euphoria—and the rest year running to mark her a preposterously being the greatest is music. Now picture ascension to the throne. exciting line-up, and show on earth. Picture yourself there. Is It was beautiful, when combined with the the scene: a lavish there anywhere else ballsy, bombastic—it electric atmosphere and custom built stage you’d rather be? was brilliant. a production that will will stand at one make Avatar seem budget, end; opposite, one of In years past, everyone Faced with the epic this year’s Isle of MTV Malta’s many churches from N*E*R*D and Snoop task of topping that, promise to go off. Get is covered in lights; Dogg to Gorillaz and MTV have produced a there and lick it up, both beat out above the Chemical Brothers have diverse, stellar line- baby, lick it up! crowd, illuminating blown audiences away. up – dancefloor exploding them against the Last year, though, was disco divas the Scissor ISLEFMT O V MALTA SPECIAL 30th June 2010 IL FOSOS SQUARE MalTA www.isleofmtv.com MALTA MUSIC WEEKJUNE 25—30

G aiANPul

Last night we jetted into Malta to catch the massive Ministry of Sound event at Gianpula, and to kick off our Malta Music Week. Hopping onto an Air Malta plane, we got the party started early with a nice chilled glass (or 2) of Maltese Pinot Grigio, which was a rather civilised way of starting the evening. Sailed through customs and then we hit Gianpula straight away, getting papped at the Once we got past the paps, we started our entrance... night in style with a few bottles of Malta’s very own Cisk lager. We had a quick wander and were just in time to catch Dash Berlin’s set in the Trance arena. Playing his favoured mix of trance classics with some housier tunes and a spot of vocal breakdowns, Dash played a blinder! We kept exploring the hidden recesses of Gianpula and got chatting to these lovely local kids. They told us they’d been queuing outside since 7pm (Gianpula opened at 8) and they were planning on being the last ones to leave - talk about party animals!

It was the main arena of Gianpula that was really kicking off though - Calvin Harris and Mark Knight were keeping the dancefloor packed with tight sets of classic house and remixed party anthems. Our highlight was the dropping of the original version of You Got The Love, which got the entire arena singing out into the night sky, hands aloft. It was a spine-tingler! As we meandered around, we were bombarded by grinning faces and good vibes, which combined with the entirely open-air atmosphere made for a blissful evening, even though we’d literally just stepped off the jet! The sound and lighting was pretty awesome too - focused and clear and despite the lack of a roof, there was virtually no bleeding of sound between arenas, or loss of bass to the heavens. Fearsome strobes took us to the next level, as we partied under the inky-black sky, discoballs and stars twinkled alike and we left Gianpula feeling like we’d certainly kicked off our Malta Music Week in the best possible way. P aCEviLLE

Our evening in Paceville started off on a musical note, we saw some brilliant live music in the centre of the district and had an explore around the bars. We wandered around, taking in the sights and even popping into Portomaso marina where Becks has an apartment and we swung by a rather exclusive cigar and champagne bar. Alas we weren’t allowed to take any photos, but it was definitely a hotspot. The we ambled over to Spinola bay, had a look at the boats and then paused for an icecream and a drink. The live music was fantastic, and the crowd was buzzing; Paceville’s bustling, eclectic atmosphere is always busy but never feels crowded or dodgy. As we relaxed back, bottle of Cisk in hand, the world went by and we had a fantastic evening of barhopping.

C rEAMFIELDS

After a delicious meal at the Xara Palace, overlooking the whole of Malta’s Northern coastline, we made our way to Creamfields Malta. The music was pumping from a distance, and as we neared, the party atmosphere became overwhelming. Despite a late start (arriving at 12.30am), we got stuck straight into Nic Fanciulli’s set in the Trance/Electro arena, and it was so good that we stayed there all evening! Unfortunately that meant we missed headliners Ferry Corsten and Eric Prydz, but the atmosphere and pumping basslines kept us dancing until the small hours. Even after we venture out to see what else was on offer, we were waylaid by the scratchy minimal of the Cream Garden that filled the main walkway, keeping us dancing amid crowds of Maltese partygoers. Without a doubt, it was an evening to remember, with pumping open-air bass and party vibes - Creamfields completely outdid itself and our Malta Music Week continued apace. P rESS Conference

Last year, the diva that is Gaga kept the assembled press waiting for an hour and a half in the sweltering Maltese sun. This year, there was none of that shenanigans, and all the stars seemed terribly personable and civilised and very excited about the evening’s set! Kid Rock was very charismatic, Kelis’ dress was a Matthew Williamson maxi, the Scissor Sisters made us laugh and David Guetta was awesomely humble. It was a great introduction to meet the stars before the Main Event. I fMsLE o TV

Once we got started with the concert, there was no stopping us. Opening with Kelis megamix medley got us straight away into the holiday mood. She even did a special mashup of the classic tune Milkshake with Madonna’s Holiday, which sent the crowd into a frenzy. Her set was hard on the beats, like new album Flesh Tone, and whipped the crowd up, before the Scissor Sisters took the the giant, fluoro- illuminated stage with their unique brand of falsetto new-disco. They played a blinder of a set, with all the big tunes from Take Your Mama Out up to the latest tracks from thir newest album. Next up was Kid Rock, whose brand of catchy Americana-rock went down fantastically well to an audience mostly made up of non- English speakers. Rounding the night off was French electro master, David Guetta, who took some time out of his hectic tour schedule (a different city every day until September – except Thursdays when he’s in Ibiza) to rock Malta. And rock it he did, the response from the crowd was immense; seriously, we’ve rarely seen audience participation like it before, and the night ended in a crescendo of fireworks and banging tunes. A fteRPARty

We were lucky enough to be staying in the same hotel as the acts, and managed to get into the afterparty at the pool. Imagine that glamorous party with gorgeous models lolling by a clear blue swimming pool, while a DJ spins some tunes, the booze flows and the smallish crowd dances on the beach under the stars. That was the party. Most of the stars held their own parties, but Kid Rock came down and chatted with us. I wish I could remember in more detail what we talked about, but alas I, like most of the assembled partygoers, was too drunk to keep precise notes on what was going on. Suffice it to say that we had a fantastic evening, which finished our Malta Music Week off in appropriately, fabulously glamorous style. Malta, we will be back – you rocked our world and we reckon we’ve got a new summer party destination going on; somewhere that’s more than just clubs and bars, somewhere with culture and architecture as well as world-class FORM Ore PHOTOS & COVERAGE OF MALTA MUSIC WEEK, SEE party venues. It’s time for the undiscovered www.maltalive.tumblr.com party island of Malta to be discovered... FREE EXCLUSIVE MIX BY JODIE HARSH

DOWNLOAD STREAM HERE HERE GET IN THE MOOD FOR A MALTESE SUMMER PARTY

Hs a our coverage of the Malta Music Week got your hankering for some tunes? We’ve got a summer tune mix from DJ extraordinaire Jodie Harsh, which is sure to get you in the mood for a party, Malta-style.

HadsWe ill Roll I’nhem i t House Yeaheah Y Yeah’s (A-Trak remix) StA eve oki

The distinctive bassline of NY-artrock Miami house producer Steve Aoki’s electro- outfit the Yeah Yeah Yeahs is given a new booty-bass track makes for a perfect spin by house producer A-Trak. Karen O’s skulking to the bar soundtrack. vocals ring out over a dark beat; it’s club o’clock people!

MarG o hosts N’ Stuff Wontsh a to Be Alone Dadmae u5 Tiesea to f t Nelly Furtado (Robbie Rivera Juicy remix)

Incomparable dance music? Look no further Nelly Furtado’s career has been in the than revered Canadian proghouse maestros ascendant recently and her collaboration deadmau5. His trademark brand of rip- with Mediterranean house superstar Tiesto ping electro and an addictive bassline pushes her skywards, with a rocket-powered gets crowds out of their seats across the catchy tune that’s been skilfully remixed globe. here by Robbie Rivera.

RyOL a f ight SepBt y tep Mdonnaa (Jodie Harsh remix) Lidcka ba Luke (Big Room Mix)

Jodie shows us what she’s made of with Laidback Luke blends some urban vibes and this mega-remix of Madonna’s seminal good- clickhouse atmosphere into a vocal house vibes track, Ray of Light. Tune of the club classic that’s guaranteed to make any mix, by far! party go with a bang.

Trnatu h Shit Up JodieH arsh is DJing across the world this summer; be sure check out thE Tom phan Ste tour dates at: Crescendoing up like a wide eyed pterodactyl, Tom Stephan’s hard crunchy wwwodieharsh.j .com bass turns it up to 11. THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

NIGHTLIFE

F arOM r vers’ delights to chilled nights over wine, the Maltese love a good time

ou can’t wish a great The place to start with sparklers, sending all around on Gozo – built into a cliff Ynightlife scene out of understanding the Maltese into naughty birthday-like face, offering an experience the darkness—it has to grow nightlife is not with any of paroxysms. like no other. on its own, out of necessity. the amazing clubs, nor the

Malta’s amazing nightlife wine scene, nor nightlife If further proof were needed Talk to anyone in Malta scene exists for one reason: mecca Paceville, however—you of the locals’ intent, or – literally anyone, from the people of Malta love a have to start with a drink. of the quality of the scene students to government good time. They’re up for The Maltese drink du choix here, the Maltese superclubs ministers – and they’ll tell it. This is theirs, for is the Vodka Red Bull, which should provide. Gianpula is you that the nightlife hub them—and luckily for us they keeps spirits high. With equal to any outdoor club in is Paceville. Crowded into want to share it. Whether this as their standard, who Europe – 4,000 can party al a few narrow streets in St you’re rinsing it on a Friday could doubt these beautiful fresco across five areas and Julian’s, all human life at superclub Gianpula or islanders’ intent? It is take a dip in the venue’s really is here – from gay lounging louche in a Valletta best enjoyed with another pool while they’re at it. The club Kloset sitting next to winebar, or anything in celebrated local quality in recently refurb’d Numero Uno live music bar BJ’s, along between, the key to enjoying the firework – most of the is promising a more Miami- to the three different yourself is remembering that better bars will provide like experience, which can tiers of the slick Shadow the locals own the scene—if on request a bottle of only be good for the 4,000 Lounge and more besides, the you can learn to love it as vodka submerged in ice in a who’ll attend their regular spread of revelry is quite they do, you’re in for a container hosting several populist Saturdays and rave- overwhelming. Should you find treat. cans of Red Bull, topped up Sundays. And then there’s it so, retreat up to nearby off with a host of dazzling the simply magical La Grotta 22, on level 22 of the Hilton THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

Tower, where you can take in you can look across the basement on St Lucy Street, a an astonishing panorama of St island’s rolling hillscape, romantic, bare stone place, Julian’s and indeed most of the green dotted with church intimate, naïve and humble, the island. If you’re still domes, each denoting a that brings to mind what it craving a beaachy vibe, head village. The Maltese platters should be to eat, drink and to the Westin Dragonara’s are the typical dish offered talk, with no pretence. Bedouin Bar. It’s strewn in these places, and there’s with Moroccan furnishings, nothing better than devouring And of course there’s making it the perfect great cheese, meats and bread plenty more besides these lounging spot both day and with the wine as talk goes on highlights: the regenerated night. and the night recedes. Valletta Waterfront is as beautiful as it is buzzy, All this accounted for, the Cosmo capital Valletta has with the lush Q Bar a must nightlife scene wouldn’t the pick of the wine bars, visit; and the Three Cities quite be so rousing nor though. Typically located on offer equal bar-based appealing if there weren’t those wonderful side streets delights. It wouldn’t be a an alternative on offer. The off the main drag, it pays Med party trip without a wine bar scene is amazing to explore and fall into beach party, and Paradise Bay from one tip of the island to one – which one could do offers all you could ask for. the other. You might start literally, as they tend to Whatever you’re after, Malta at The Fortress in Xemxija be secreted in the basements provides. The atmosphere – which offers beautiful views of the gorgeous renaissance ecstatic, carefree, blissful of St Pauls Bay from its houses. One such is Trabuxu, and fun – is what makes terrace. Move down the island an elegant affair located it special. And just like to Rabat, to findTat-Tarag . at the very top of formerly everything else, that’s the Located on the city’s public notorious Strait Street. locals’ doing. steps, the view offered here Our favourite, however, is is possibly even better: the unbelievably charming here, from Malta’s centre, Legligin: a tiny renovated THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

NIGHTLIFE/ HIGHLIGHTS : BARS

LEGLIGIN TO W TWenTYTWO Q Bar

Intimate, romantic Most likely the The Waterfront and perfect—and the coolest place in renovation is selection of wines is Malta—located in magnificent, and Q second to none, thanks Valletta’s bastions, Bar’s interior does to it’s magnificent exposed brickwork, a it justice. The 18th owner, Chris, who sepia-tinged palette, century vault is embodies hospitality electronica and an done out minimally, perfection. Call amazing stepped water but comfortably; ahead to book a table, cascade combine to weekends see it turn though, or you’ll be make this the natural clubtastic. You might guaranteed to miss creative industries MN I K Bar & CLUB dream of finding this out. hangout. place in Shoreditch or One for the young: Berlin. excited, rowdy, +356.21.221.699 www. two-twentytwo.com frivolous and frantic. St Lucy St, Valletta Great Siege Road, Valletta www. qbar.com.mt Mink is located at the Valletta Waterfront, top of St Julians’ Valletta shopping arcade, but inside you’re likely to find more than a bargain.

www.n mi kmalta.com Level 2, Bay St, St Julians

LUNA Lounge DL E Borgo 22

If you’ve read our Del Borgo is simply Definitely a glam-up enthusings on the about fine wines gladrags joint – the sublime Palazzo and great food. slick 22 is likely Parisio and you’re Unsurprisingly, it’s to be rammed until smitten, then Luna massively popular. the early hours by a Lounge is a must—a Their platters are dancing, champagne fantastic cocktail amazing, as are the drenched crowd. The bar on the ground ravjul (ravioli); but views, as we said, are floor. Practically the the wine… oh the wine! second to none. definition of chic. Book before you come, but definitely come. www.22.com.mt www.palazzoparisio.com Level 22, Portomaso Palazzo Parisio, Naxxar Business Tower, St www. delborgomalta.com Julians St Dominic St, Birgu-Vittoriosa THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

17 THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS

NIGHTLIFE/ HIGHLIGHTS : CLUBS

GIANPULA LA T GroT A

One of the biggest Big regular weekend and best clubs on the nights and occasional island has even more international star cause for celebration appearances are all than usual in 2010 well-and-good, but the – it’s their 30th La Grotta experience birthday and with is so much more than truly epic style, that—as we’ve said they’ll be hosting elsewhere, this club- Faithless on August in-a-cliff-face is as 7th, and they’re also unique and beautiful hosting Ministry for as anywhere we’ve lost Malta Music Week. it in the world. The That should prove rambling secret areas their quality to you. make it all the more This gorgeous open- amayjing. air club is spread over five areas – www.lagrottaleisure.com Main Room, Molecule, Xlendi, Gozo Marrakech, the Grove Gardens and Gianpula NU MEro UNO HUGO ’S Passion / Fields. Throughout SHADOW LOUNGE the summer, Fridays Having just undergone see Gianpula host a big renovation By far the busiest G7 Fridays, massive inspired by the club on the island nights with the pick Miami scene, Malta’s – or rather, clubs. of the local scene other massive club Right in the heart playing; through the is getting ready for of Paceville, Hugo’s summer they’ll also an explosive summer Passion is guaranteed have visitors like the season. Saturdays to be rammed whenever Minus crowd, bringing and Sundays are where you head down there. MAGDA on 6th June, and it’s at here – their Sitting on top of an end-of-season bash Summer Saturday it is Shadow Lounge, with those Ministry Nights are promising self-styled ‘Most guys again. Any party a newly sophisticated Exclusive Club in trip to Malta can’t experience befitting Malta’—if you get in, be complete without a the next decade of you’ll be treated to night here, trust us. clubbing. DJ Ruby’s one of the slickest Sunset Sundays are for bar experiences of www.gianpula.com the hardcore ravers your life. It’s worth Gianpula Road, Rabat among you – guaranteed the hassle. to be huge. www.shadowloungemalta.com www.clubnumerouno.com.mt St George’s Road, Ta’ Qali Crafts Village, Paceville Rabat

CULTURE CLUBBING It’te s h morning after the night before: are you going to lie in a room, sweltering in midday heat with the curtains closed? Holidays wasted alternately lying prone and being pranged are so démodé, darlings. To hell with it—be out and doing! There’s no better cure for what ails you. For anyone who’s ever rued the daytime tedium of Mediterranean party holidays, Malta provides.

000 years of means that a deliciously Mediterranean across when you wake, rise cosmopolitan, serene walk through the two continents meets and step out, you’ll multicultural walled medieval city and enjoys, with a get the itch to be out 7Mediterranean history of Mdina is less than hybrid culture enjoying and doing, just like come to bear on this 20 minutes’ drive from elements from Arabic to you always do—but at a tiny island and its bustling, beautiful English and millennia slower pace, sun beating fellows, a mixture Valletta, brimful of history compressed down, sunnies on, happy at once racy and of splendour, where into an island you to stop and stare over a intoxicating, yet politicians and judges can drive across in 30 coffee, maybe have that relaxed and louche. happily chatter on the minutes. Encompassed first drink early. But Whilst your evenings main drag of Republic in these islands is before the late night may have been up Street while hipsters the sophistication and starts again, and that for it, the days are and the art kids lurk in excitement of a city urgency rises, you’ll languid, yet still dilapidated-chic back break with the slow life take in an exhibition, packed: your itinerary streets, starting up of a resort. It’s kind see something old, might stretch back 7000 drive-in cinema clubs of like paradise. something new, or years, with the oldest and art institutions to We party every weekend something unbelievable. standing buildings in pass the time. at home – and plenty of Here’s our guide to a the world, but then Malta is for everyone week nights, too; yet few of the things on race forward into who wants culture we have jobs, we make offer and a few of the tomorrow with cutting with their clubbing; things, blog, DJ, read, people making it happen. edge art. to take a flavour of a go places. The morning The island’s tiny size place where the whole after the night before, CULTURE CLUBBING NINE Unusual HANGOVER CURES

ST JOHN’S THE BEHEADING OF ST CO CATHEDRAL JOHN THE BAPTIST

St John Street, Valletta St John’s Co-Cathedral, Valletta

St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta is a stone- Contained off a chapel in St John’s is a bon- cold stunner, capable of inspiring the reverie afide masterpiece: Caravaggio’s only signed and awe religious buildings are supposed to, painting, the huge, breathtaking Beheading of though rarely manage. One of the first gifts St John. The chiaroscuro technique brings the of the Knights of the Order of St John to the painting’s ongoing theatre vividly to life, as island in the 1570s, its military-austere front the executioner reaches for his knife to finish belies a manic interior, an overwhelming mé- the job, holding John-Baptiste’s head, still lange of gilt décor and an astonishing ceiling attached to his body, blood draining away. As painted over five years by Mattia Preti as part the Maltese remark: this is drama, theatre of his redecorative works carried out in the still occurring 400 years later. 1660s. As your breath is taken away by what’s above, you hardly notice you’re standing on a floor patchworked with marble-inlay tombstones. It’s a match for any other cathedral in Europe.

Money Matters: €5.80 full entry Money Matters: €5.80 entry to St Johns Co-Cathedral

Do it for: the Catholic wow factor Do it for: the cred – Caravaggio is the renaissance hipster poster boy

22 CULTURE CLUBBING NINE Unusual HANGOVER CURES

UPPER BARRAKKA THE GRAND MASTER’S GARDENS PALACE & ARMOURY

V tallet a, near Castille Place R epublic St, Valletta

Simply a must visit for stunning views. The The home of government in Malta since the time Upper Barrakka Gardens offer a quiet relief of the Knights is as fittingly opulent as you’d from the city’s bustle of meet and greet, expect from a city as rich in visual drama as showcasing the majesty of the Grand Harbour, Valletta, and still today hosts the Office of its deep blue waters, stunning scenes, and the the President and the House of Representa- envy-inspiring super-yachts of the super rich, tives. The palace is also stuffed to bursting all backed by the majestic Three Cities. One with historical artefacts, gorgeous frescoes, level below the gardens is the Gun Saluting artisan-crafted furniture and fine art ahnd an battery of cannons; the central cannon is fired armoury with over 5000 pieces of military hard- at noon every day to mark the time (and also ware. Power knows how to do right by itself. scare the life out of you if you’re unexpect- ing).

Money Matters: Free Money Matters: €10 full entry to State Rooms & Armoury

Do it for: the views if you’re romantic; the cannons if Do it for: a reminder of how the other half live. you’re angsty.

MDINA

The tiny, ancient walled city is aptly nick- named the Silent City: serene calm is settled over the entire city, a heavy yet pleasant sensation which you succumb to on entering through its gate. Narrow medieval streets oc- casionally open out onto beautiful squares dominated by noble palaces. We suggest roman- tic evening strolls, feeling like the only people alive, before enjoying nearby Rabat’s wonderful winebars.

Money Matters: free to enter the city; museums and churches may charge.

Do it for: the atmosphere.

23 CULTURE CLUBBING NINE Unusual HANGOVER CURES

PALAZZO HAL-SAFLIENI PARISIO HYPOGEUM Vc i tory Square, Naxxar Cm om une of Paola

Another perfect romantic destination is Like the Neolithic temples, you must really found in the northern village of Naxxar: the visit the Hypogeum before you can appreci- demurely-fronted Palazzo Parisio contains such ate its effect. Phrases like “only underground an opulent interior that it has come to be prehistoric temple in the world” (which it is, known as the mini-Versailles: mirrored walls, btw) don’t really connect until you actually trompes-l’oeil, fine frescos and magnificent visit. A nice anecdote to warm you up is how marble combine to delightfully overwhelm – and this UNESCO World Heritage Site was discovered all of this is only inside. Out back are quite a hundred years ago by accident; imagine! If majestic gardens, stretching off and entic- you do intend to visit, which you should, book ingly arrayed for a slow sauntering that could in advance: only 80 people can visit per day last forever. in order to preserve it.

Money Matters:€9 Money Matters: €5.80 full entry

Do it for: indulging Marie-Antoinette-based fantasies; Do it for: THE NEOLITHIC wow factor and the gardens for a sun-drenched alternative to the beach

24

CULTURE CLUBBING NINE Unusual HANGOVER CURES

CITTADELLA NEOLITHIC TEMPLES Vc i toria, Gozo H agar Qim, Mnajdra & Tarxien

The Cittadella is a quite unbelievable place: One of Malta’s great stop-you-dead qualities atop a hill (which requires no little breath- is the reach of its history. It’s all well and sapping climbing to reach) above Gozo’s capi- good to say it has temples that are 7000 years tal, Victoria; walled-in and tiny; and above old, but such statements tend to brush off you all, ancient. Its history stretches back to like so many tedious history lessons. However, the Bronze Age, around 1500BC, and Roman carv- to walk through the perfectly formed archway ings can still be seen on its walls, along into one of these free standing structures, with their ancient equipment for grinding out with their complete walls of enormous stone olive oil. At the Cittadella’s centre is a and realise that they are 1000 years older beautiful baroque cathedral, famous for its than the mediocre rocks of Stonehenge which we tromp-l’oeil ceiling painting of a dome that so venerate is a moment of astonishment. 1000 was never built. From the Cittadella’s ram- years older! 1000 years back from today there parts are stunning views of all Gozo, a glori- were Vikings here. ous rolling green landscape punctuated by the red and silver domes of local churches. It’ll take your breath away, presuming you have any left after that climb.

Money Matters: free to enter the Cittadella Money Matters: €9, €9 and €6 respectively.

Do it for: the exercise, if nothing else. Do it for: the moment of revelation – it really will stop you dead.

27 CULTURE CLUBBING t en minute history lesson

To ur guiDE extraordinaire Clive Cortis gives us a ten minute lesson on the entire history of Malta.

“Ok, now focus! So, from Southern Italy. west, to avoid all the world, the locals were in 5000BC we have During excavations we trouble that was going still communicating the first inhabitants found metal tools; we on in the Middle East. in this Arabic–Maltese of Malta, who came know that they are language, Siculo-Ar- from Sicily. We know different because the “Now, in the year abic, whatever you’ll this because of pot- Neolithic and Temple 218BC until 6th call it. tery that was found tools were stone and century AD we were in a cave here which flint, imported, and ruled by the Ro- “From 1127—1530, we matches perfectly with hard local stone. They mans; and until were a feudal state pottery of Ragusa, built their settle- 871AD is Byzantine. under various rulers, south-east Sicily. ments on the top of 871—1090AD we have Aragonese, Castil- They cross the channel the hill; their dead the Arabs; what we lian and so on. Now 90 km, they came here. were not buried but still have from there 1530–1798 was the They lasted until cremated; it shows are few remains, but Knights of St John, 4100 BC; they lived a totally different this is where we have the Christian order of in caves; they were culture. our language from. knights who were given the Neolithic. From Then, in 1090AD we Malta by Spanish king 4100—2500BC we have “Then from 800—500BC have Count Roger Charles V to defend the Temple Period. it was the Phoenicians the Norman; we were Rome against the Otto- In these 1500 years, – where Lebanon is to- re-Christianised here. man Empire; then Na- more than 20 megalith- day, there used to be But Count Roger let poleon for 2 years ic sites were built, Phoenicia. That’s when the Arabs keep ruling (1798—1800) before spread around Malta written history in the whole archipelago he was expelled by – 5 in Gozo, along Malta starts, because until 1127AD, when the Maltese, and then with underground sites in Rabat we found on a King Roger, the son 1800—1964 Malta is a which were dug. tomb the first written of Count Roger, ex- British colony and evidence, dedications pelled all the Arabs. until 1979 was the “From 2500—800 BC, to the goddess Osi- In fact we have marble Mediterranean Naval this is the Bronze ris, a goddess of the and stone tombstones Base. Officially Malta Age, still just pre- Phoenicians. Then of Maimuna: she was a became a colony in history. A new culture 500—218BC we were 21 year old who died 1814 and became a Re- reached our island, ruled by the Carthag- in Gozo in 1174; there public 13th Decem- totally different inians from Carthage is an Arabic poem ber, 1974. We joined from the Temple one; north Africa; they inscribed on this, so the EU in 2004.” in fact, there was were like the Phoe- we still were speaking an abrupt end to the nicians in that the Arabic even here. What Temple culture in the Phoenicians left the happened most probably year 2600 and this new east Mediterranean, was that when Malta culture came later they moved further up was ruled by the Latin

5000BC 2500BC 800BC 500BC CULTURE CLUBBING t en minute history lesson

218BC 871BC 1090AD 1127 1530 1798 1800 1974 2004 Delve deeper into the Maltese way of life with these stunning little ISLAND podcast gems; the perfect listening material while you’re lazing at the beach, they will definitely inspire you to explore further into RECORDS the island’s hidden corners.

A walk in Valletta

Brief introduction to the UNESCO Heritage Trail podcasts. Here we also suggest a one day visit to Valletta with 12 highlights and interesting features not to be missed while walking around. Click Here TO DOWNLOAD

T ghe Me alithic Temples: traces of a lost civilisation

Maltese archaeologist Reuben Grima explains why Malta’s megalithic temples of Ħaġar Qim, Mnajdra, Tarxien, and the complexes of Ta’ Ħaġrat and Skorba can be considered unique architectural master pieces, evidence of an advanced prehistoric civilisation flourishing on the islands 5,000 years ago. CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD

L ost and recovered: the drama of Caravaggio’s stolen masterpiece

Former Museums Director Fr Marius Zerafa relates the gripping episode of how he managed to recover the Caravaggio masterpiece of St Jerome, after it had been stolen from St John’s Co-Cathedral in 1984. He also CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD describes the tecnique used by Caravaggio in his paintings.

Mat l a: a sentimental journey

Final episode of the series in which three visual artists - James Vella Clark, Kenneth Zammit Tabona and Laurent Muller - explain how they relate to Valletta and what it means to live in Malta today. An emotional journey where the islands’ characteristic elements of light, shadow, stone and sea become a vital source of inspiration. CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD

B ack to the future: Renzo Piano’s Project for Valletta

Maltese architect Konrad Buhagiar talks about Renzo Piano’s new and exciting architectural plans and designs for the building of a new City Gate, Parliament and Opera House at the entrance of Valletta, and CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD how the city will be transformed as a result of Piano’s architectural designs.

Sp ecial for kids: Popeye’s village

How the set of the movie Popeye became a wonderful theme park for children and their parents. CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD

M editerranean Film Studios: the special effects shop

Maltese artist and music critic Kenneth Zammit Tabona recalls his first visit to the Manoel Theatre and his involvement ever since, while actor and theatre critic Paul Xuereb shares his experience at the Manoel as an actor on the stage of this intimate baroque theatre commissioned by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena. In the second part CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD of the podcast Chris Gatt, director of St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, presents the Centre and its varied cultural activities.

the mini-Hollywood of the Mediterranean

Brief introduction to the second series of the VisitMalta podcasts. Why Malta is great for filming - and for holiday too!CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD

F cort Ri asoli: the secret set

Interview with Marquis Nicholas de Piro, owner of Casa Rocca Piccola, a lived-in noble house museum. He recounts his family and house history from the time of the Knights of Malta until the present day. CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD

S t John’s Co-Cathedral, sanctuary of the Knights of Malta

Giorgio who highlights the details of St John’s Co-Cathedral and its baroque interior, the impressive marble floor and the famous Caravaggio paintings: the Beheading of St John and St Jerome. CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD

M usic in Malta

Interview with the philosopher and poet Joe Friggieri about Maltese folk and classical music and the much loved Maltese composer Charles Camilleri, who will be remembered as a major exponent of Maltese musical productions of the last century. The second part presents Ruben Zahra, CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD a young and talented composer who derives inspiration from traditional music to create a more classical contemporary style. Finally an introduction to the general music scene in Malta today.

Teh atres in Valletta

Maltese artist and music critic Kenneth Zammit Tabona recalls his first visit to the Manoel Theatre and his involvement ever since, while actor and theatre critic Paul Xuereb shares his experience at the Manoel as an actor on the stage of this intimate baroque theatre commissioned by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena. In the second part CLICK Here TO DOWNLOAD of the podcast Chris Gatt, director of St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, presents the Centre and its varied cultural activities. ALT MALTA

Off the main drag, down back streets under dilapidated red light signs; in new art galleries and in car parks; in band clubs and on covered balconies—away from the clubs, we assess Malta’s thrilling alternatives.

No one can live in the past. Malta’s rich heritage may lead to that temp- tation, and the islands may have been guilty about that once – but no more, as new generations of bright young internationalists fight the brain drain, amplify the diaspora’s clamouring voices and inspire a bleeding- edge, forward alternative scene...

ing and shocking and tive scene with those joyful; Maltese NGO dissonant pleasures of KINEMASTIK Kinemastik, via their transgressive, furtive own events and through communal experience. Film shouldn’t be the solitary endeavour en- collaborations with forced by the multiplex, and the cinematic international groups By bringing the inter- event should not occur in the media. Film can around the world, like national underground, create an international atmosphere in a lo- straight8 and Le Gun both of today and the cal space, bring a babble of voices to a room from the UK and the recent past, into the where there was silence and a thousand ideas Milano Film Festival gorgeous disused back- to challenge the majority. Film can and should in Italy, has since streets, Kinemastik is be a public event, filled with talk and drink 2006 been re-energis- dedicated to creating and excitement; its content should be challeng- ing and empowering the an atmosphere where local film scene in art and culture can Malta – and by exten- flourish outside the sion, they hope, the mainstream; something whole alternative com- their charismatic munity. frontwoman Emma Mat- tei thinks is vital Their year-round to kick-starting a programme sees them renaissance in the showing films in art arts amongst the new galleries and col- generation. Their 6th laborating with local International Short promoters on gigs Film Festival runs and, most recently, this year from 6-8th they’ve begun a sell- August, with events out drive-in film club all over Malta and in an old parking lot, Gozo and films from drawing on that joyful all over the world; collective memory of it’s a chance to see perfect teenhood ex- cinema as it could be perience while imbuing – exciting, visceral, the Maltese alterna- communal. MALTA CONTEMPORARY ART CUTTING EDGE ART BRINGING A MUCH NEEDED DIALOGUE TO THE MALTESE SCENE

“To grow, art in has shown globally. Malta needs the Cyprien Galliard, the diaspora; it also Parisien-Berliner needs confidence. Even whose work (suitably though it’s old, for Malta) connects Malta as a country modernism’s ruin with is still very young. ancient monuments, is It needs confidence showing at the space and examples in order in June; Galliard’s to develop.” This is lush discord of bru- Mark Mangion, founder tality and beauty of the Malta Contem- in our relationship porary Art Founda- to landscape, shown tion, an institution through a mix of me- devoted to contempo- dia including film, rary art in Malta. sculpture, photogra- It’s the first and phy and performance, only of its kind, ul- is a perfect example timately designed as of the intelligent a platform for ideas art which the MCA is of the kind there importing to Malta as hasn’t seemed to be they try to bring the room for in Malta, country into the in- presenting challeng- ternational conversa- ing international tion. Mangion under- contemporary work stands that what is that the islands have lacking is a diverse, been starved of in two-way dialogue; the order to encourage happy result of that and ultimately offer is an exceptional support to a local gallery showing truly scene which Mangion exciting work. believes is very much absent.

The international remit of the gal- Mal n ta Co temporary Art lery is testament St James Cavalier, to Mangion’s own CV Castille Square, – trained in paint- Valletta VLT1060 ing in New York and www. sculpture at the RCA maltacontemporaryart. in London, his work com ALT MALTA

ST JAMES CAVALIER

CENTRE FOR CREATIVITY MALTA

Ask anyone in Malta the year – including Valletta’s Centre for Creativity where to go for a bit contemporary theatre lives up to its name, forming the of kull-chah, and always performed in cultural hub of Malta there’s only one place English and regular they’ll respond: St classics and contem- James Cavalier. The porary films from the VISUAL ARTS CINEMA Centre for Creativity, arthouse circuit, as Alongside the MCA up- Classics from Withnail & the national contem- well as hosting its stairs, St James has two I to Fellini are screened porary arts centre is own shows and provid- art spaces: the main hall most days, while new based in an astonish- ing space to the MCA and the atrium. There are releases are shown here, ing 16th Century de- on the top floor – St plenty of local artists the island’s only art- fensive bastion with James really comes shown in its wonderful house cinema, throughout all the attendant into its own as a nooks and corners too. the year. wonderful nooks and hub for culture in corners such build- Malta. Want to know ings possess. Here, what exhibitions are they are crammed with going on in Valletta, performance spaces, or round the island? cinemas, theatre, art What lowkey gigs are and delightful ar- going on, or just chitectural foibles. about anything else? Initially, the joy is A foyer filled with THEATRE MUSIC one of discovery sim- flyers and informed ply walking around. staff are there to Malta’s great thespian The New York Met Opera’s guide you to your heritage is well catered whole season is screened Aside from an ex- taste’s desire. for here: the programme in HD, while the centre ceptional programme is modern and performed also nurtures young lo- running throughout in English. NT shows are cal talent, particularly screened in HD. chamber music.

St James Cavalier

Centre for Creativity Pjazza Kastilja Valletta VLT1060 32 www.sjcav.org ALT MALTA WALKING MALTA THE ONLY WAY ST JAMES TO SEE THE REAL CAVALIER KAZINI MALTA

A ‘kazin’ is a local band club (or possibly political party club), CENTRE FOR CREATIVITY MALTA typically a centre of Maltese community life. Each band will be as- sociated with a saint, and it is from here and the church that their festa preparations are created. They have a rough and ready feel, immediately comfortable; bright religious idols are scattered through the room. With cheap drinks and comfortable old locals, they’re not dissimilar to working men’s clubs—except that they’re much more wel- coming.

It’s here most of the arts and fringe sce- nesters will go to drink, rather than the over-polished clubs. Down Strait Street in closed balconies and “The kind of place crea- Valletta, the old haunt enchanted travellers. tives go to, to create of off-duty naval offic- their own entertain- ments,” as photographer ers and Malta’s former Bumble about elsewhere Alexandra Pace puts it red light district, and you’ll see other to us. We’d advise that there remain boarded up clues to Malta’s make- you go to the King’s Own bars with turned-off up – doll-like Vir- Band Club on Republic garish signs hanging gins in glass-fronted Street in Valletta, over them. If you walk boxes outside people’s which even has a swanky it on the right day, houses, small statues upstairs area-come-gal- you can see a retired of saints on street cian dreams, and ride lery space for members seaman standing there, corners. Take a ride to a village to drink only. Whatever you do, remembering his youth. on those beautiful old 50 cent tea or €1.50 make sure to talk to On Republic St there ‘bone-shaker’ buses beer with locals who’ll someone there—the best are ghosts of the women in discomfort, filled gladly chat the day way to understand Mal- tese hospitality. who preened in those with nostalgic Keroua- away. ALT MALTA ARCHIGASM! A quick guide to Valletta’s stunning architecture

It was while walking gether by the lush warm the streets of Val- cream of the Maltese letta that we first stone. lost our heart to the Maltese islands. Byron, Konrad Buhagiar tells clubfoot that he was, us the great feature of loathed Valletta for Valletta is the closed “those dreaded steps”. Maltese balcony. The Today, we defy anyone first was the astonish- not to walk Valletta’s ing long example on the cobbled streets, ar- Grand Master’s palace; rayed in a perfect this was then copied grid, and not gawp at by wealthier families, the delights above becoming an important them. Our guide simply element on Valletta’s rues that the Maltese streetscape. Most ap- “never look up at the pealing is how “the wealth we have”. balcony became the main protagonist in travel- Valletta was born in ler’s journals in the the 1566, to celebrate 19th century—together the Order of St John’s with the Maltese wom- victory against the en.” Because Valletta Ottomans in the great was a port, it was dis- siege. Its early char- honourable for a woman acter is an austere to be seen talking to renaissance style, a man in the street – austere due to military so the closed balcony necessity. 100 years became a female space. later, military fears “If you read those relaxed and Valletta travellers descrip- became primarily com- tions, there’s always mercial, and the beau- an image of a balcony tiful baroque facades with a woman on it. came into prominence. They came together.” The aesthetic whole, however, is held to-

34 ALT MALTA

The big story on the Buhagiar says, “He’s ground when we were interested as an ar- last in Malta was that chitect not just in renowned architect the building, but the Renzo Piano’s scheme life around it. That’s to redevelop the entry what Valletta needs way to Valletta had – not a parliament finally been approved. building, not a thea- 50 years of argument tre, but a project for are concluded (it’s Valletta.” It thrills been 20 since Piano us to think that what submitted his first is now a fairly deso- plan), passions spent. late space will soon The project, rebuild- be humming with life. ing the main gate to “When I last went to VALLETTA the city and renovat- Pompidou, it was such ing the gutted opera a joy to see the peo- house, will be ready ple using the place – A NEW START for 2012. just like his draw- ings, even down to the RENZO PIANO’S REDEVELOPMENT OF THE “Valletta is a symbol little girl with the ENTRANCE TO VALLETTA HAS BEEN OVER 20 in the Maltese mind, balloon!” it’s our window to the YEARS IN THE MAKING. NOW THAT THE PLANS world,” says architect Ultimately, what has HAVE FINALLY BEEN GIVEN THE GO-AHEAD, AN Konrad Buhagiar whose been overcome to suc- firm are working with ceed in this project EXCITING FUTURE FOR THE CAPITAL AWAITS. Piano on this project, is a tepid, conserva- by way of explaining tive approach to Val- the fierce debate. “Many letta; Piano’s scheme people were worried indicates towards an that the plans did not exciting future: “the blend into the style concept that heritage of Valletta – but it is open-ended has only has been through any recently taken root number of styles! What here,” says Buhagiar. brings everything to- Valletta saw few note- gether is the use of worthy constructions Maltese stone, whilst (and lots of destruc- the designs are con- tion) during the 20th temporary.” century. Now, in the 21st, “as people see Just within the new things, they understand gate, the main entrance better. Today we say, to Valletta, will be a ‘I want to keep the new parliament build- spirit of the old, but ing; behind it, on the I want to do something site of the opera, an that is new.’ We want open air theatre. One to leave our mark, but of Piano’s main traits for it to be something is his use of public of quality that will space – consider his be respected in the projects like Paris’ future. I think we’re Pompidou Centre and on a good track.” Berlin’s Potsdamer- platz for example. 35 CULTURE CLUBBING GOZO

THE ULTIMATE ESCAPE

Thoht ug he party scene on Malta may buzz and throb like no other, the overall impression one receives of the island as a whole is still that of a laidback idyll. Yet just a 20 minute ferry ride north lies another island which makes Malta seem filled with the angsty fizz of a metropolis: Gozo. No better place to take you out of the clubs and into the good life.

ozo is a haven of From the astonishing Gtranquillity: it CITADELLA (see page is dissected, from the 24), the medieval ferry port south-east walled city which to west, and north to rises above Victoria, south, by two main you see the limits F or more information roads, which almost at of the island almost on the islands go to: the island’s centre, in every direction: the capital Victoria gentle, green rolling www.visitmalta.coM (Rabat in the local hills and occasional language), which sits streaks of clay and at the highest and local stone form therefore most defen- the natural land- sible point. scape; red or silver

church domes spot Anyone seeking a pure the landscape, with detox during a party small villages dotted trip to the archi- around them; there are pelago should aim to farms, like TA’MENA, spend two days in are scattered around. Gozo. Amazing beach- It feels, here, as es, such as DWEJRA’S though an ideal of inland beach and the Mediterranean living red-sanded RAMLA BAY from everyone’s col- are lapped by pris- lective memory have tine translucent blue been realised and waves. Settle your- protected from the self down to one and ravages of the 20th you’ll find it difficult Century. to move. (In fact, we’d suggest renting a car as the island’s diverse terrain makes it a fantastic place for off-the-beaten track exploring.) CULTURE CLUBBING

The landscape itself Mediterranean beyond. island’s great draw: of Gozo provides plen- There are, of course, combining the his- ty of intrigue: from plenty of human en- tory, the landscape, the beautiful natural deavours to marvel the churches, amaz- rock arch over the at, too: 7000 years ing resorts or hidden sea, the AZURE WINDOW worth, actually. From gems like St Lucy’s (which co-starred the Neolithic temples Square and The Museum alongside Brad Pitt of GGANTIJA to the of Toys, Gozo of- in a scene of Troy), pastoral perfection of fers something beyond to CALYPSO’S CAVE, TA’ KOLA WINDMILL just all of these things. where legend has it nearby, an 18th centu- A vision of a life that the nymph Calypso ry addition which in- completely opposite to kept Homer’s Odysseus stantly transports you your own—rural, rich, ‘prisoner of love’. the 200-odd years to a lush, slow; after the The views from here time of rural living, hard nights of party- are as enchanting as a living that just ing you’ll be doing, you imagine that which seems to make sense there’s really no Homer succumbed to when here on Gozo. better escape. was—Ramla Bay and the In fact, that is the

HOWTE O G T THERE:

A regular ferry operates for passengers and cars from Mgarr in the north of Malta to the port of Cirkewwa in Gozo.

For information and timetables contact the Gozo Channel Company at www.gozochannel.com 37 CUISINE EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY

Malta is the stepping stone between two continents, but the people on the edges of the sea which separates them have always found more in common with each other than to divide them. Shared climate, history, lineage, passion, mentality and several millennia of relations are just some of the reasons; yet Julian Sammut, towering Maltese restaurateur, would say that sitting at table tops them all.

“It is Mediterranean but we are bridging get between a Maltese passion – the passion the Mediterranean. Our and his rabbit. We’re of living; and food traditional cuisine surprised it’s not in and drink are a very if you like is mostly the book of proverbs. important part of Siculo-Arabic, but more living,” says Sammut. Siculo than Arabic. For Sammut’s restaurant, And if Malta is at the instance, the Sicilian Salini, is near the Med’s centre, what does would be pasta, baked tip of Sliema, with that mean for your pasta, ravjul; but an astonishing view cuisine? It’s polyglot? the Arabic would be across the waters taking “It is of course! We couscous, thick soup in the whole of the are the belly of the with the little pasta.” Valletta peninsula. Mediterranean, which is Rabbits are also a It’s a suitable the heart of the world.” great Maltese delicacy, vision: Valletta has “though one of the grand always been Malta’s Sammut is not your masters declared that window to the Med, simple restaurateur, the killing of rabbit and a reminder of the but is also a highly was forbidden, because multicultural heritage noted foodie. Who he wanted to go hunting. fits such a multicultural better than to explain And there was actually enterprise. “Here we the particularities a revolt because of have foods here from 13 of Malta’s strain of the rabbit! It was different countries in Mediterranean cuisine? called the Uprising the Mediterranean. From “Our cuisine is very of the Priests.” The France to the straits close to the Sicillian, lesson here is, never of Gibraltar, Maltese, Moroccan, Tunisian, feel accepted anywhere Italian and so on.” on its shores.’ That is so true.” It’s also a quite magnificent sight, What Sammut and indeed should you need the his restaurant reminds distraction—which you us of primarily, won’t. Food, ambience however, is that and wine combine to curiously Mediterranean overwhelming delight and particularly with good company, as appealing “passion of the culture insists. living” which infects Sammut’s credo is the Maltese life and simple, “I believe its cuisine. “I always sitting at table should say I am Mediterranean be a celebration. You before European. Any start to eat late and it talk of Switzerland, goes on forever. You eat Germany, I develop an slowly, you get drunk allergy. Shouting in the slowly, and everybody streets, this is what gets emotional, lots life is about. Do you of hugging… I like know what Disraeli said sharing food.” It’s an about Valletta? In his admirable philosophy, time, people would bring and typically herds of goats from the Mediterranean: streams villages and milk them of dishes for sharing outside the houses; and will pass by over the so, obviously the goats course of the night, would leave something of every Mediterranean behind. So Disraeli origin (which goes for described Valletta as the ingredients, too). ‘that city of bells, “[Food writer] Claudia yells and smells.’” He Roden, who was born and laughs a little. What bred in Cairo, said in Disraeli evidently meant the introduction to one as an insult, Sammut of her books, ‘if you wields as a compliment. are born anywhere in It’s hard to disagree the Mediterranean, you with him.

S salini Re taurant Tigné Point, Sliema

www.salini.com.mt 39 CUISINE THE GOOD LIFE T A’MENA, GOZO Heaven in the form of agro-tourism. You’ll feel you’ve never lived so good.

offers exclusive wines, from it. In a fifteen cheese, olive oil, minute sitdown behind capers, bread, sundried the shop with the lady tomatoes whole and as a of the estate, we are paste and plenty more, staggered by the simple, all produced by the delicious food and wine farm. The driveway next offered. Bread with to it enters the estate; sundried tomato paste, several large dogs lie basil leaves and capers sleeping; behind the in white wine vinegar— shop, a gazebo; and just it’s unbelievable, this beyond the bread oven. combination. The Maltese government The dirt road disappears plans to make Gozo a up the hill amongst the The tomatoes are model of eco-tourism lines of olive groves, sundried according to and sustainability by citrus trees, vines. tradition, left in large 2020; pointing the way The sun beats down on tin trays on the roof they have no better it all. for two weeks during the example than the hottest part of summer. Ta’Mena Estate, the first Agro-tourism involves The wines are heady, agro-tourism complex living sustainably on the sun that succours across the archipelago. the produce from the lending luminescence to “Where tradition is area you’re staying in; both taste and colour. daily life”, their this is the central The capers are… amazing, motto states; a more offer of Ta’Mena, with nothing like the awful, enchanting vision of several farmhouses rubbery tosh we’re used life would be difficult available for rent. They to. This is the good to find. also offer agricultural life completely unlike tours of the vineyards, Felicity Kendal’s; and Ta’Mena rests on a winery, olive grove even if climate change hill, at a roadside and orchard, as well turns out to be a leading into the as fruit and vegetable scam, this ecotourism capital Victoria; in picking. experience is enough to the opposite direction, turn you green all on the Mediterranean lies What we can’t enthuse to its own. alluringly between two you enough is the bliss

hills. A small wooden you feel sitting here, Ta’Mena Estate hut, the shop-front, nor just how good a life Rabat Road, Xaghra, Gozo opens onto the road; it could be lived surviving 40 www.tamena-gozo.com

AN INTRODUCTION TO MALTA’S RISING STARS

ml a ta might be small but it’s got some mighty movers and shakers in the art world

ALEXANDRA PACE

PHO TOgrapher, ARTIST, DESIGNER, GALLERY OWNER, ALLROUNDER

Half way into which makes pursuing a like, literally under contrast black and white: conversation with successful freelance the surface.” Shot with the latter inspired Alexandra Pace, we begin career in both all the a plastic lens fish-eye, by anatomy drawings, to wonder whether she more impressive, given the marble-like images the former displaying could be Malta’s entire she was only born in have a colour palette a female nude amidst creative industry on her 1977. Significantly, unique to each beach they mannequins. In both, own: both fashion and she’s lived in Malta were shot at, equally true form and identity art photographer, graphic all her life; we say capturing unique human are lost beneath the designer, gallerist ‘significantly’ because, scenes – a child, teens, pleasing chiaroscuro, and entrepreneur, she primarily, her most elderly – suspended depth and honesty hidden appears to be a one woman exciting art photography momentarily within the by superficial lustre. cultural renaissance. is very much concerned glass ball. They’re quite Perhaps inspired by the Fortunately the islands with Malta and its heartbreakingly, sweetly conflict she herself are awash with many such social undercurrents. Her honest. feels, the artist and the talents, but there’s one collection ‘Santa Marija’ This contrasts with commercial photographer? daunting moment when you was shot over the huge two wonderful series Pace “The art certainly take in her range that it Maltese holiday weekend showed along with Santa gets the reaction! And seems – well, impressive. around August 15th, when Marija at her gallery it’s certainly more Pace has lived in all Malta stops and, in 68 St Lucy St (currently expressive. I don’t put Malta all her life and her words, “goes to the being renovated): my… my whole, my heart is self-taught both in beach. This is what Santa Boutique and Soldier Boy into the commercial work photography and design, Marija weekend looks both show nudes in high like I do this.” www.alexandrapace.com ALEXANDRA PACE

43 PEOPLE

CHARLES & RON St ars of the local fashion scene: only the most glamorous need apply.

They are undoubtedly indicates why: “They he explains, “and then outré adornments like the superstars of know how to enjoy life on the other hand, when giant silk bows? “She Maltese fashion: the a lot. People work people go out here, or would have to be very premiere event of the here, but it is not the there’s a big event, glamorous – we love fashion calendar here most important thing in they go full-on glamour; glamorous women, very is designers Charles life. Very important is there’s a great culture feminine. Really I & Ron’s biannual eating, meeting friends… of buying or making don’t mind the size of shows, each new season The best thing is to a new dress for the a woman, so long as she a step up in their make friends here. It’s festas” which they both knows how to carry it quest to glamorise very easy!” really appreciate, but – that’s the important the islands. Charles as they put it, “it’s thing. I would like & Ron are definitely So, Charles, the Maltese not really fashionable.” to dress Barbara internationally-minded, half of the islands’ Streisand, and Ron, having shown in Milan, premiere fashion Charles & Ron woman, Beyonce. Charles & Ron Rome, Amsterdam and partnership: how would it’s fair to say then, woman is there to move Toronto among other you characterise the is not your typical around – she’s there to places; yet they are Maltese style? “There’s Maltese, regardless be noticed.” well rewarded at home, a big contrast between of their love for with three Maltese what you might see on the country. So who fashion awards and a the street, completely would wear these lush, thriving home business. laid-back and relaxed flowing constructions, Ron, who is Dutch, style during the day,” sleek shaped with www. CharlesanDRON.COM PEOPLE

CHASING PANDORA GON ZOTA FOLKSTERS LIVE THE GOOD-LIFE

Gozo, the small bucolic about Chasing Pandora, lackadaisical rolling out at the beach, idyll off the coast of the self-styled “only in hills. just hanging out with Malta, is a kind of band on Gozo”, is friends.” paradise. Not, perhaps, their relationship to “We’re influenced by for pseudo-vagrant their origins – they everything we love,” Of course it was never debauchees or sordid may fly to London for she says. “We couldn’t so simple as their being thrill-seekers; but for a radio session, or put our finger on what the parochial pastoral anyone with a desire to a gig Toronto, but we sound like. The minstrels. Guitarist to live beyond thirty, they’ll take that important thing to me Keith Anthony offers the its Mediterranean pastoral Gozitan is that the lyrics are telling answer: “We were Laurie Lee landscape romance with them, not meaningful, that they’re both born abroad, both is intoxicating enough leave it behind. It there for a reason. I’m of us; every minute, alone; call it Stella imbues their music, definitely inspired by really, is just music.” Artois advert chic. a light, carefree, nature, that’s for sure. It’s the musician’s faintly atmospheric Nature doesn’t love me blessing and curse – What you have to acoustica, with melting because I’m allergic to call it the habit of understand about Gozo freedom; singer Melissa everything!” Surely the music, or the obsession. is that it is tiny, but Portelli may dreamily ambience comes from a Melissa finishes simply: it is also very much coo of desperately lifestyle thing? “Just “it takes you to another its own place, with its dark matters, but no being by the water is level. It opens minds – own identity. What’s matter – their sound is something. We live by that’s for sure.” charming and striking buoyant, sundrenched, the sea. I like hanging www. ChasingpanDORA.COM PEOPLE

KRIS MICALLEF ML A TA’S Fashion PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR & WORKAHOLIC BEFORE HIS TIME

Kris Micallef is To illustrate: when we complains. “But the fashion shoot. I create strikingly, enviably ask him what his ideal fashionista crowd is a story from beginning young. It is not his week in Malta entails, quite distinct, you can to end, with clothes and youth in and of itself “Oh, lots of work! tell a fashionista from models’ expressions,” he which is so enviable University in the day the crowd at any time, offers; above this text (though youth forever and shooting in the walking in Valletta a vision of masculinity, will be); when combined evening. I’ll party on down Republic Street shot in serious-actor- with his drive and Friday or Saturday, you would tell them headshot b/w, stares work ethic, however, and then on Sunday I just like that!” His moodily out at us from seemingly that of a catch up on work.” It’s imagery plays up to beneath Mickey Mouse man at the height of a sleep-when-I’m-dead the fashionista scene, ears, illustrating the his profession, it’s attitude when most of with a great eye for point. “In ten years borderline distressing. his peers just sleep colour and light; but I’d like to be a big The 2009 winner of like they’re dead. what’s exceptional is fashion photographer, Malta Fashion Awards’ his sense of drama and maybe in London,” says Photographer of the Kris is very obviously narrative: every image Kris. Doubtless he will Year is not even, a fashion photographer takes a scene in media be; and he’s got time technically speaking, a and part of the fashion res, action caught in to finish his degree full-time professional crowd. “From my own the midst of happening. first, too. photographer – he’s an end, the overall architecture student at fashion theme here “I like to create a the University of Malta. is quite boring,” he story when I do a www.K RisMICALLEF.COM KRIS MICALLEF PEOPLE

KURT ARRIGO Malta is my playground

We all dream of jacking in the been working on a glossy coffee age, you have to be flexible as a to be honest,” he says, going on office job and spending our days table book documenting the changes photographer” to explain that shooting outdoors in the fresh air doing something to the Harbour as it undergoes a As a chief figure in Malta’s is the only way to photograph that we love. Kurt Arrigo, one of period of intense regeneration. cultural panorama, Arrigo in somewhere like Malta, “the Malta’s premier photographers, has “Before it changes, I want to has watched a scene of young brilliant sunlight exists all made that dream a reality. capture it forever,” he explains, talent develop before his lens. year round, it’s inspiring to be As a teenage sailor, Arrigo “there are certain things that “Photography’s leap into the on an island with such a great competed in yacht races around won’t be recognisable when the book digital world has made it much lifestyle.” Malta, borrowing his brother’s is published.” more accessible, and it’s very Arrigo, however, is a stoic. camera to capture the exhileration Arrigo’s career isn’t limited to healthy to have young photographers After honing his craft for over a of the sport, and then things gorge scenes of Valletta though; taking advantage of this, and it’s quarter of a century, he’s now in a snowballed from there; he’s now his underwater photography is important for them to appreciate position to take his time over jobs ended up becoming an official sublimely serene and beautifully the value of their own work.” that he’s selected for himself. photographer for the very event captured, and he also takes sport, Budding photographers should seek A lot of his work now takes him that started it all off. lifestyle, portrait and sometimes out some of his favourite spots overseas, but as with all Maltese, Despite photographing the islands a bit of fashion photography too. across the islands, especially he comes alive when he’s in his for the best part of 25 years, He’s even worked on film sets, Gozo’s Gnejna Bay (try saying homeland. And a good thing too, Arrigo still hasn’t tired of them taking unit stills and promotional that with your mouth full) and the for Arrigo’s photography is that - and who could really? His latest shots for Troy, which was shot on more isolated Maltese west coast, rare thing: beautiful without being project is the result of 5 years the island a few years ago, and but it’s Valletta’s Grand Harbour clichéd. of research and intensive shooting famously starred Brad Pitt in a that inspires him most. “I’m still in Valletta’s Grand Harbour; he’s leather skirt. “In today’s day and overwhelmed by the architecture, WWW.K Urtarrigo.COM KURT ARRIGO PEOPLE

IRA LOSCO TE H InfiniTELY CHARMING EUROVISION ENTRANT TURNED ALT.POP STAR

Charisma is a strange involved catwalks and She is, inevitably, a a little more about the thing. You may not know blowing glitter and such workaholic, with [deep Eurovision tackfest. of Ira Losco, or have silliness, and is very breath] three studio What’s it really like? heard her music, but far removed from the albums, two remix “What’s hilarious when when she walks into the Gwen Stefani power-pop albums, an unplugged you get there is that room she carries it with which she has made album, a DVD and a everyone thinks they’re like a star. Because her name. That change in 400 (count ‘em!) page really famous, acting she is – countless itself was a struggle, book in the last six all diva. And you’re number ones and awards apparently: “’Ira is not years. She is involved, like, ‘hello you’re in Malta prove it. She the Ira you saw there,’ “beginning to end, every famous in your country, is, however, incredibly I had to tell people. photo shoot, song, song but I’ve never heard personable. As we said ‘Ira is the girl who writing. I’m the boss, of you.’” You may not – charisma. fronted the Portishead I have to be. There are have heard of her, but covers band,’” she so many people with it doesn’t matter—you’d In 2002 Ira came second laughs. Ira’s evidently great voices, look know it when you met in Eurovision, which very keen to play up the great, are great for the her. It’s charisma, then at least still Every-Alt persona: “At job, but then there’s that strange, wonderful had some semblance of school, I didn’t look no imprint of them on thing, which you’ve respect in the Maltese good, but music was my their music. I need to either got, or you isles. It was a typical passport. It’s always keep my creative juices ain’t. She’s got it. pop-pop-POP number, the been there for me, this flowing every day.” performance of which was never about fame.” We can’t resist asking www. Iralosco.COM

LAZY DAZE LAZY DAZE

Po h tographer Mark Cant Stylist Alexis Knox Fashion Co-Ordinator Marisa Grima Make up Shasha Hair Angela Mallia De Leonardo an d Leonards Hairdressers’ Artistic Team Mol de Laura Elomaa Fashion Assistant Tamara WEBB

B lack dress Roberto Cavalli Scarf Stylist’s own Shoes Dune

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Dress Charles and Ron 53

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55 Wi h te hoody Tommy Hilfiger Swimsuit O’NeiLl Heels Dune

56

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O range Jacket Charles and Ron Swimsuit O’neiLl Heels Dune Sunglasses Stylist’s Own

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SC_WOOL_SHAKE_DPS.indd 2 02/03/2009 18:19 SC_WOOL_SHAKE_DPS.indd 3 02/03/2009 18:19 ALT RESOURCES ESSENTIALS

Bn a ks & Money: Malta has used the Euro since January 2008. ATMS and Exchange Bureaux are all over the islands. Most banks are open from 8.30am until 1.30pm Monday-Thursday, until 3.30pm on Fridays and until noon on Saturdays.

Em ergencies: The emergency services number is 112. The Police General HQ in Floriana is (2122 4001).

H ealth : Chemists are found across the island for minor health issues, and open the same hours as shops. The main public hospital on Malta is Mater Dei Hospital Birkirkara (2545 0000). Further medical information and lists of doctors and dentists is available in the Yellow Pages.

S hopping: Maltese shops are open between 9am and 7pm (sometimes as late as 10pm in touristy areas), with a siesta between 1pm and 4pm. Shops are normally closed all day on Sundays, however Sunday morning markets are common across Malta, and Valletta’s market is open every day. Marsaxlokk on a Sunday is our pick of the markets.

Telephones & Internet: Malta has a wealth of online resources, from Government institutions to the tiny culture blogs. Below are some of our more recommended sites, as well as a set of key Twitter users to start you off.

GENERAL INFORMATION TIRW T E

Malta Inside Out www.maltainsideout.com MaltaLive will be tweeting across the summer Visit Paceville www.Visitpaceville.com with updates, news and the latest tips Visit Malta www.visitmalta.com @MaltaLive Gozo www.islandofgozo.org Valletta Waterfront www.vallettawaterfront.com Malta Weather www.maltaweather.com Restaurants www.restaurantsmalta.com P eople/PLACES OK Malta www.OKMALTA.COM Kris Micallef @krismicallef Ira Losco @iralosco EVEN TS/InsTITUTIONS Alexandra Pace @alexandrapace Malta Arts Festival www.maltaartsfestival.com Malta Culture @MaltaCulture

Malta Jazz Festival www.maltajazzfestival.org St. James Cavalier @StJamesCavalier St. James Cavalier www.sjcav.org Malta Events www.visitmalta.com/events Malta Culture www.MALTACULTURE.com Gozo Culture www.GOZOCULTURE.com Music/Events

Kinemastik @kinemastik PRO MOTErs/ARTISTS Malta Inside Out @MaltaInsideOut G7 Events www.g7events.com Malta Radio Charts @maltacharts Fresh Events www.freshevents.info Visit Malta @VISITMALTA NNG Promotions www.nngpromotions.com Fresh Events @FRESHEVENTSMT Knockout Events www.knockoutevents.info NNG Promotions @NNGPROMOTIONS Malta Ticket www.maltaticket.com intRoducing notionMAg.coM

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