ou won’t need a GPS when you come We’ve selected top Sonoma wineries in 44 PINOT NOIR to Sonoma County if you let the re- four categories—Pinot Noir, , TOURING gion’s major grapes be the travel Cabernet Sauvignon and —and 45 CHARDONNAY Y guide. Your passion for a specific va- put together an agenda that crisscrosses 46 CABERNET SAUVIGNON rietal is the best map to follow. Sonoma is a the wine roads of the county. We’ve sug- ZINFANDEL diverse destination, with a varied climate and gested wineries that are open to the public 46 a landscape that ranges from pastures of graz- and have recommended where to stay once 48 MAPPING SONOMA ing sheep to mountain ranges to the foggy your day is through. And of course we haven’t 50 WINERIES TO VISIT Pacific Coast. With more than 400 wineries overlooked food. We offer advice on satisfy- and 60,000 acres of vines spread through ing options from casual dining to the area’s 58 WHERE TO STAY 17 distinctive American Viticultural Areas, premier kitchens. Have fun exploring, and 61 WHERE TO EAT SONOMA Sonoma produces myriad styles of wine. enjoy the wine. GRAPE by GRAPE

EXPLORE THIS DIVERSE REGION [ USING WINE AS YOUR COMPASS ]

BY TIM FISH

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALANNA HALE

Tucked away in northeastern Sonoma County, the Alexander Valley appellation comprises more than 15,000 acres of vineyards, including Cabernet Sauvignon and old-vine Zinfandel.

42 WINE SPECTATOR • JUNE 15, 2016 JUNE 15, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 43 SONOMA | VAR I E TALS PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY

onoma has become a hot destination for Pinot Noir, with TOP SONOMA PINOT NOIRS TO TRY NOW alifornia Chardonnay the county boasting many of California’s leading wineries RELEASE barely survived Prohibi- for the grape. Spread over three regions, they draw upon WINERY WINE SCORE PRICE tion. The thin-skinned a range of terroirs and bottle Pinots in a variety of styles. ARISTA Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 94 $78 grape was too fragile to The area is home to Pinot stars Marcassin and Kosta Browne, Harper’s Rest 2013 ship to home winemakers on S Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 93 $64 C standard-bearers such as Dehlinger and Rochioli, and many more UV. Lucky Well Vineyard 2013 the East Coast, and ultimately standouts, including Arista, Auteur, Donum, Merry Edwards, Patz most vines were uprooted. In AUTEUR Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2012 93 $50 & Hall and Siduri. 1960, there were only about Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2012 92 $42 Pinot thrives in Russian River Valley, Carneros and Sonoma 150 acres of Chardonnay in the Coast. Known for its lush redwood trees and foggy weather, DEHLINGER Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Altamont 2013 95 $60 entire state. It wasn’t until the Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 93 $65 Russian River generally produces plump, rich and fruit-forward Champ de Mars 2013 late 1970s, after the Chateau Pinots. Trees are rare along the windswept rolling hills of Carne- Montelena 1973 Chardonnay DONUM Pinot Noir Carneros 93 $72 ros, where the are generally sleek, crisp and elegant. Single Vineyard 2013 won the Judgment of Paris, that Sonoma Coast bridges those two regions and is the largest and Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 92 $72 consumers starting taking real hardest AVA to define, a sprawling patchwork of microclimates Single Vineyard 2013 notice. What many people and soil types. The terrain ranges from gentle slopes to isolated KOSTA Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 94 $90 don’t know is that Montelena’s mountaintops, with the best vineyards at the highest elevations BROWNE Kanzler Vineyard 2013 now-historic Chardonnay bot- producing Pinots with an appealing earthiness and a dense core Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 93 $64 tling was made with mostly So- of tannins and acidity. MARCASSIN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 96 $75 noma County grapes. Many producers focus on specific regions. Helen Turley and Three Sisters Vineyard 2010 While Chardonnay is grown Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 94 $150 Peter Michael winemaker Nicolas Morlet (center) and his team sort Chardonnay grapes. John Wetlaufer of Marcassin harvest exclusively from their estate Marcassin Vineyard 2010 throughout most of California, vineyards planted high in the Sonoma Coast, while winemaker Sonoma counts more than MERRY Pinot Noir Russian River Meredith Estate 92 $57 James Hall makes Pinot from vineyards throughout the county EDWARDS Methode à l’Ancienne 2012 15,600 acres, and the county is and beyond. And while Pinot is planted through much of Cali- Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Georganne 2013 90 $60 now the dominant source of the state’s top versions. There are TOP SONOMA CHARDONNAYS TO TRY NOW fornia, Sonoma has the most vines by far, nearly 12,500 acres. veteran producers such as Kistler, Rochioli and Williams Selyem, PATZ & HALL Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2011 92 $45 RELEASE WINERY WINE SCORE PRICE In fact, the variety recently surpassed Cabernet Sauvignon as the Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Jenkins Ranch 2013 91 $60 plus a second generation of masters like Peter Michael, Marcas- county’s largest red grape crop. sin, Chasseur and Ramey, and relative newcomers including Arista, ARISTA Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 94 $46 ROCHIOLI Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2013 Although Sonoma may be a focal point of Pinot Noir’s new 91 $65 Ram’s Gate and Three Sticks. Chardonnay Russian River Valley 94 $60 Ritchie Vineyard 2013 popularity, the region’s history with the grape is somewhat spotty SIDURI Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 90 $50 Stylistically, Chardonnay continues to evolve in Sonoma. For Parsons’ Vineyard 2013 and dates back only a few decades. Of course, that’s true of Cali- one thing, the ideal location for planting vineyards is a moving CHASSEUR Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Durell 2013 92 $60 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 90 $50 Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 90 $40 fornia and Pinot in general. Pratt Vineyard-Sexton Road 2013 target. Early on, Russian River and Alexander valleys were con- As early as the 1930s, there were Sonoma bottlings labeled sidered ideal, but with new clones and rootstocks and increasingly KISTLER Chardonnay Carneros Hudson Vineyard 2013 94 $80 Pinot Noir, but the wines were more warm summers, growers have taken a wider view. Russian River Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 93 $80 Stone Flat Vineyard 2013 likely blends based on Zinfandel, Pe- remains a key player, but the floor of Alexander Valley is generally tite Sirah or other grapes, a trend that Pinot Noir grapes are punched down at Kosta Browne Winery. considered too warm, so vineyards increasingly are being planted MARCASSIN Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 94 $75 Three Sisters Vineyard 2010 continued into the 1970s with jug reds higher in the surrounding hills. In Sonoma Valley too, plantings Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 92 $150 labeled Burgundy or Chianti. In the have shifted farther south to Carneros, or west into the Petaluma Marcassin Vineyard 2010 early 1950s, J.D. Zellerbach planted Gap region of the Sonoma Coast. Once considered too cold to PETER Chardonnay Knights Valley Point Rouge 2012 97 $185 MICHAEL Pinot Noir at Hanzell Vineyards in So- ripen grapes, the “true” Sonoma Coast in the mountains above the Chardonnay Knights Valley Belle Côte 2013 93 $90 noma Valley, and by 1968, Pinot was Pacific is now highly favored. RAMEY Chardonnay Russian River Valley 94 $65 in place in Russian River Valley with Winemaking too has evolved and matured. The early Chardon- Ritchie Vineyard 2013 growers such as Joe Rochioli and Jo- nays were fresh and forward. But by the 1980s, a rich, full-bodied, Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2012 90 $40 seph Swan. oak-influenced style had emerged, the result of winemakers’ ex- RAM’S GATE Chardonnay Russian River Valley 92 $64 But Pinot Noir is a finicky grape, in periments with barrel fermentation, extended lees contact and Ulises Valdez Diablo Vineyard 2013 both vineyard and winery, so it wasn’t un- indigenous yeast. While some argue that such wines are heavy- Chardonnay Carneros 2014 90 $36 til the 1990s that winemakers really found handed, many consumers continue to snatch them up. In recent ROCHIOLI Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 93 $50 their footing. When the Pinot boom hit vintages, however, producers such as Kistler have modulated their 10 years ago, Sonoma was well-posi- house styles to create Chardonnays that are slightly less ripe and THREE Chardonnay Sonoma Valley Durell Vineyard 2013 92 $50 STICKS tioned. That means you’ll find Pinot which reflect a more restrained use of oak and other techniques, Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain One Sky 2014 90 $50 Noir made throughout the county, al- and the market has welcomed these as well. WILLIAMS Chardonnay Russian River Valley 92 $65 though the largest concentration of win- It’s the rare Sonoma County winery that doesn’t make at least a SELYEM Drake Estate Vineyard 2013 Chardonnay Russian River Valley 91 $58 eries delivering top versions is in Russian token Chardonnay, but Russian River and Carneros are the two Olivet Lane Vineyard 2013

River Valley. HOFFMAN TROYCE WICKHAM M.J. key regions for touring and tasting.

44 WINE SPECTATOR • JUNE 15, 2016 JUNE 15, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 45 SONOMA | VAR I E TALS CABERNET SAUVIGNON

onoma County has a long history of growing Cabernet Sauvignon, although many consumers may be more fa- TOP SONOMA CABERNETS miliar with versions from Napa Valley, to the east. Cab- TO TRY NOW ernet was among the grapevines imported into California RELEASE WINERY WINE SCORE PRICE in 1862 by Agoston Haraszthy, founder of Buena Vista Winery S CHATEAU Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2012 91 $30 in Sonoma Valley. While Napa’s Inglenook was bottling ST. JEAN Cinq Cépages Sonoma County 2012 90 $75 Cabernet as early as 1882, Sonoma producers typically blended KINSELLA Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley 92 $125 the grape into wines with names such as Claret, often dispensed Jersey Boys Vineyard 2013 into jugs for consumers to carry home. Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley 90 $95 By the early 1970s, pioneering winemaker Rodney Strong was Spencer Vineyard 2013 planting Cabernet Sauvignon in Sonoma’s Alexander Valley, while PETER Les Pavots Knights Valley 2012 95 $195 Beringer was doing the same in nearby Knights Valley. Chateau MICHAEL St. Jean made its first Cabernet in 1975, using Sonoma Valley Claret Reserve Sonoma-Napa Counties 2012 93 $135 PRIDE fruit. Today, the Alexander, Knights and Sonoma valleys remain Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma-Napa Counties 93 $135 the best regions for Cabernet in the county, where a total of 12,000 Reserve 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 94 $75 acres of the variety is currently planted. RODNEY Sonoma Cabernet is distinct from Napa Cabernet, displaying STRONG Rockaway Single Vineyard 2012 a winning style all its own. The climate is generally milder, mak- Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 91 $75 Brothers Ridge Single Vineyard 2010 ing for leaner, less powerful, more elegant wines, compared to those from Napa. However, in recent years, more Cabernet has been planted in the mountains above Alexander and Knights Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley, where you’ll find a con- valleys, and those wines show that Sonoma can make Cabernets centration of wineries and services for visitors. There is only one with more density, tannins and richness. winery in farther-flung Knights Valley, Peter Michael, and it is In terms of wine touring, focus your excursions on two areas: open to mailing-list customers only. ZINFANDEL

infandel is found all over California, but there’s something The mother lode of Zinfandel producers can be found in or near about the combination of soil and sun in Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley. Many producers there have set hours for tast- that makes it the grape’s chosen spot. Only the massive ings. It’s also one of the county’s most scenic valleys. Z San Joaquin Valley has more Zinfandel acreage, and no re- gion has a larger collection of great old-vine vineyards, many planted prior to 1900. TOP SONOMA TO TRY NOW Historians aren’t certain how Zin made its way to California, RELEASE but it has gone by many names. DNA testing proves it originated WINERY WINE SCORE PRICE in Croatia, and records show it was first planted in California in BEDROCK Sonoma Valley Pagani Ranch Heritage 2014 94 $48 the 1850s. While most wine grapevines have a narrow lifespan of Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Monte Rosso 93 $50 productivity, Zinfandel can live for a century or more, and wines Vineyard 2014 from the oldest vineyards are often the most celebrated. CARLISLE Zinfandel Russian River Valley Papera Ranch 2013 96 $47 Because of its robust nature and ability to ripen, Zin was a work- Zinfandel Russian River Valley 95 $47 horse in red blends after the repeal of Prohibition. Later, a number Carlisle Vineyard 2013 of Sonoma vineyards, including Pagani, might have been pulled HARTFORD Zinfandel Russian River Valley Dina’s Vineyard 93 $55 out if not for the white Zinfandel craze of the 1980s. Old Vine 2014 Key Zinfandel regions span the county, covering both cool and Zinfandel Russian River Valley Old Vine 2014 93 $38 warm climates. Dry Creek Valley established itself as a leader, al- LIMERICK 1023 Russian River Valley 2013 96 $56 LANE though Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley near the village of Zinfandel Russian River Valley 1910 Block 2013 91 $48 Glen Ellen offer competition. Russian River Valley Zin is domi- SEGHESIO Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Cortina 2013 94 $40 nated by two areas: Wood Road and Piner-Olivet, both located in Zinfandel Sonoma County Sonoma 2014 93 $24 the plains northwest of Santa Rosa.

46 WINE SPECTATOR • JUNE 15, 2016 SONOMA | TRAVEL MAP

A navigational guide to the HWY. 101 SONOMA Lake lodgings, eateries and tasting ROCKPILE Sonoma 12 HWY. SONOMA rooms featured in this story HWY. 128 6 MONTINI DRY CREEK ROAD OPEN SPACE HWY. 101 ALEXANDER PRESERVE VALLEY W. SPAIN ST. 2 Wineries 20 1 ARISTA WINERY 7015 Westside Road, Healdsburg; (707) 473-0606; KNIGHTS SONOMA www.aristawinery.com PLAZA VALLEY W. NAPA ST. 2 2 AUTEUR WINES 373 First St. W., Sonoma; (707) 938-9211; 5 5 15 www.auteurwines.com 3 CHATEAU ST. JEAN HWY. 128 8555 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood; (707) 257-5784; www.chateaustjean.com

FIRST ST. W. 9 4 DELOACH VINEYARDS 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa; (707) 755-3300; Healdsburg www.deloachvineyards.com 5 DRY CREEK VINEYARD 3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg; (800) 864-9463; www.drycreekvineyard.com BROADWAY 6 FERRARI-CARANO VINEYARDS AND WINERY DRY CREEK 8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg; (707) 433-6700; www.ferrari-carano.com VALLEY HWY. 101 7 HARTFORD FAMILY WINERY 8075 Martinelli Road, Forestville; FORT ROSS- 19 (707) 887-8030; www.hartfordwines.com HWY. 29 SEAVIEW SONOMA 8 PAUL HOBBS WINERY 3355 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol; 10 CHALK HILL ROAD CHALK HILL COUNTY (707) 824-9879; www.paulhobbswinery.com 9 LANCASTER ESTATE 15001 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg; NAPA (707) 433-8178; www.lancaster-estate.com RUSSIAN RIVER 16 VALLEY CALISTOGA ROAD 12 COUNTY 10 MACROSTIE WINERY & VINEYARDS 4605 Westside Road, WESTSIDE ROAD WESTSIDE 1 ROAD EASTSIDE Healdsburg; (707) 473-9303; www.macrostiewinery.com

WESTSIDE ROAD ST. HELENA ROAD 11 PATZ & HALL 21200 Eighth St. E., Sonoma; (707) 265-7700; www.patzhall.com 12 PRIDE MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS 3000 Summit Trail, Santa Rosa; (707) 963-4949; www.pridewines.com 3 HennesseyLake 4 RIVER ROAD 7 13 RAM’S GATE WINERY 28700 Arnold Drive, Sonoma; (707) 721-8700;

SILVERADO TRAIL www.ramsgatewinery.com HWY. 116 18 14 RAVENSWOOD WINERY 18701 Gehricke Road, Sonoma; (707) 933-2332; 4 www.ravenswoodwinery.com 15 RIDGE VINEYARDS – LYTTON SPRINGS 650 Lytton Springs Road, GUERNEVILLE ROAD HWY. 12 Healdsburg; (707) 433-7721; www.ridgewine.com 8 FULTON ROAD 16 J. ROCHIOLI VINEYARDS & WINERY 6192 Westside Road, Russian River GREEN Healdsburg; (707) 433-2305; www.rochioliwinery.com 3 VALLEY BENNETT 17 SEGHESIO FAMILY VINEYARDS 700 Grove St., Healdsburg; HWY. 29 (707) 433-3579; www.seghesio.com HWY. 12 Santa Rosa VALLEY 8 HWY. 101 18 SIDURI WINES 981 Airway Court, Suites E & F, Santa Rosa; (707) 578-3882; www.siduri.com TRINITY ROAD BENNETT VALLEY 19 RODNEY STRONG VINEYARDS 11455 Old Redwood Highway, HWY. 116 Healdsburg; (707) 431-1533; www.rodneystrong.com ROAD N 20 THREE STICKS WINES 143 W. Spain St., Sonoma; (707) 996-3328; www.threestickswines.com Pacific HWY. 12 Ocean SONOMA MOUNTAIN HWY. 12 Hotels SONOMA SONOMA COAST ARNOLD DR. VALLEY 1 HOTEL LES MARS 27 North St., Healdsburg; (707) 433-4211; www.hotellesmars.com HWY. 101 N 2 FAIRMONT SONOMA MISSION INN & SPA 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma; 2 (707) 938-9000; www.fairmont.com/sonoma 14 Bodega 3 VINTNERS INN 4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa; (707) 575-7350; 0 miles 4 Bay Sonoma www.vintnersinn.com HEALDSBURG ADOBE ROAD GROVE ST. 11 Restaurants 1 BRAVAS TAPAS 420 Center St., Healdsburg; (707) 433-7700; LOS HWY. 12 www.starkrestaurants.com/bravas.html POWELL AVE. HEALDSBURG AVE. CARNEROS 2 CAFÉ LA HAYE 140 E. Napa St., Sonoma; (707) 935-5994; AREA OF Petaluma www.cafelahaye.com DETAIL TAYMAN 3 DRY CREEK KITCHEN 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; (707) 431-0330; 17 PARK HWY. 121 www.drycreekkitchen.com W. GRANT ST. 4 FARMHOUSE RESTAURANT 7871 River Road, Forestville; CALIFORNIA HWY. 101 SAN (800) 464-6642; www.farmhouseinn.com/restaurant FRANCISCO 5 OSO SONOMA 9 E. Napa St., Sonoma; (707) 931-6926; www.ososonoma.com Dry Creek 1 6 1 7 6 SHED CAFÉ 25 North St., Healdsburg; (707) 431-7433; MARIN SONOMA 13 www.healdsburgshed.com/eat/shed-cafe 3 COAST COUNTY 7 VALETTE 344 Center St., Healdsburg; (707) 473-0946; W. NORTH ST. www.valettehealdsburg.com L0S 8 ANGELES HWY. 37 ZAZU KITCHEN + FARM 6770 McKinley St., 150, Sebastopol; (707) 523-4814; www.zazurestaurant.com

San Pablo 48 WINE SPECTATOR • JUNE 15, 2016 Bay JUNE 15, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 49 SONOMA | WINERIES

WINERIES TO VISIT

Pinot Noir Arista Winery 7015 Westside Road, Healds- burg Telephone (707) 473- 0606 Website www.aristawin ery.com Open Daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cost Tastings $20–$160 Even if it weren’t producing some of the top Pinot Noirs in Sonoma, Arista would be a destination for its distinctive tasting room. The cottage, with its steep roofline and sur- rounding Japanese garden, would look at home outside Tokyo. Founded by the McWil- liams family in 2002, Arista produces nearly a dozen Pi- nots, as well as Chardonnay, Zinfandel and Gewürztra- miner, and a varying selection is offered in three different tasting options. Savor a glass as you sit by the fireplace or wander among the streams, waterfalls and moss-covered stones of the garden. —Tim Fish

Auteur Wines An afternoon at Arista Winery 373 First St. W., Sonoma Tele- of the vineyard to a cellar tasting amid costumed characters depicting phone (707) 938-9211 Website www.auteurwines.com Open Daily, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., with appointments required Sunday to Friday Cost Tastings $25 the 17th-century French royal court. —T.F. Winemaker Kenneth Juhasz has a way with Pinot Noir, producing some impressive wines for Donum and Pali, among others. Auteur is Patz & Hall his own label, which he runs with his wife, Laura. He learned the wine- 21200 Eighth St. E., Sonoma Telephone (707) 265-7700 Website www. patzhall.com Open Thursday to Monday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., by appoint- making ropes in Oregon before transplanting to Sonoma Valley in ment Cost Tasting $30–$75 2002. They make a range of Pinot Noirs from vineyards in Northern The tasting experience at Patz & Hall feels like home. Partners Donald California and Willamette Valley, as well as Chardonnay. Auteur’s tast- Patz, Heather Patz, James Hall and Anne Moses have adorned the walls ing room is a cottage just off historic Sonoma Plaza, where guests sit at of their 8,000-square-foot “Sonoma House” with photos of their wine- communal tables either by a fireplace or on the patio, depending on growers, quite like portraits of family members. Nestled within a 10- the weather, for tastings. It’s a laid-back atmosphere that allows you to acre vineyard on the outskirts of Sonoma, the house offers a contem- focus on the wines and perhaps meet a fellow Pinot lover. —T.F. porary and relaxed atmosphere. Tastings focus on educating visitors about the regions and growers behind the label’s single-vineyard Pinot DeLoach Vineyards Noirs and Chardonnays. Guests can opt for a casual setting at the tast- 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa Telephone (707) 755-3300 Website www. ing bar, which offers four wines, or spring for a salon tasting, which in- deloachvineyards.com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., with appointments re- quired Monday to Thursday Cost Tastings $30–$100 cludes six wines paired with imaginative noshes in a private setting. —Aaron Romano Cecil DeLoach was a 1970s pioneer of Sonoma wine, and his winery is now thriving in the hands of the larger-than-life Jean-Charles Boisset, scion of the Burgundy giant. The winemaking style is strictly Californian: Siduri Wines supple, fruit-forward wines. The portfolio includes nearly a dozen Pinot 981 Airway Court, Suites E & F, Santa Rosa Telephone (707) 578- 3882 Website www.siduri.com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., by appoint- Noirs from Russian River and beyond, as well as a range of Chardonnays ment Cost Tastings free–$10 and Zinfandels. At the end of a long drive lined by vineyards lies the win- The atmosphere at Siduri might not wow the casual tourist, but it’s ery, whose manicured landscape includes a garden, outdoor art and a heaven for Pinot nerds. At this no-frills warehouse in a Santa Rosa picnic area. DeLoach offers guests a gamut of experiences, from a tour

50 WINE SPECTATOR • JUNE 15, 2016 SONOMA | WINERIES

industrial park, it’s all about winemaking. Stainless-steel tanks and entrance with a glass of rosé or Chardonnay, followed by a sit-down oak barrels are all around, and you feel like you’re hanging out with tasting curated by a “wine ambassador.” Take a seat on one of the ele- the cellar crew. Founders Adam and Dianna Lee sold the winery to gant outdoor patios or relax in the airy lounge and revel in the beauty Jackson Family in 2015, but Adam remains on board as winemaker, of the scenery while learning about the different vineyards the label continuing to craft rich, full-bodied Pinots. Siduri harvests from all sources. Tastings range from a mini-vertical of Pinot Noir to a flight of over California and Oregon, but Sonoma County remains the heart of six wines. You can also book a tour of the estate, which includes a pri- the program, with 12 or more different Pinots, depending on the vin- vate tasting paired with local bites. —Augustus Weed tage. Siduri, by the way, takes its name from the Babylonian god- dess of wine. The winery’s sister label, Novy, emphasizes Zinfan- del and Syrah. —T.F. Chardonnay Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery 8761 Dry Creek Road, Healds- burg Telephone (707) 433- 6700 Website www.ferrari-carano .com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cost Tastings $10–$25 If it’s a touch of glamour you seek in wine country, this is the desti- nation. Villa Fiore, the winery’s visitors center, is an opulent Mediterranean-style palace with granite floors and a mahogany and black-granite tasting bar. Descend the limestone staircase to take in the underground cellar with vaulted ceiling, or stroll the 5 acres of manicured lawns and parklike garden, with its flowing stream and lush trees and flowers. Ferrari-Carano helped establish the rich, plush style of California Chardonnay, and the producer remains true to form today. A menu of tasting options allows visitors to sample a range of reds as well as whites. —T.F.

MacRostie Winery & Vineyards 4605 Westside Road, Healds- burg Telephone (707) 473- 9303 Website www.macrostie winery.com Open Daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., with appointments required Saturday and Sunday Cost Tastings $20–$55 MacRostie’s single-vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs take center stage at its stylish new tasting room. Perched above Westside Road, the space offers sweeping views of the Russian River Valley, the distant Maya- camas mountains and Mount St. Steve MacRostie (center) of MacRostie Winery leads a Chardonnay tasting. Helena. Visitors are met at the

JUNE 15, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 53 SONOMA | WINERIES

Ram’s Gate Winery that might inspire an impromptu picnic on the expansive lawn framed 28700 Arnold Drive, Sonoma Telephone (707) 721-8700 Website www. by tall palms and citrus trees. Private tastings of reserve wines are ramsgatewinery.com Open Thursday to Monday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., by ap- available by appointment in the early-1920s château, which looks ev- pointment Cost Tastings $40–$250 ery bit like a location from the The Great Gatsby. —T.F. The first winery that visitors see as they approach Sonoma from San Francisco, Ram’s Gate makes a lasting impression. Designed by archi- Paul Hobbs Winery tect Howard Backen, using weathered, reclaimed wood and crowned 3355 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol Telephone (707) 824- with pitched rooflines, the structure is a homage to the old barns of 9879 Website www.paulhobbswinery.com Open By appointment Cost Northern California. The tasting room feels like a chic country lodge, Tastings $45 with wide views of the surrounding hills, a fitting atmosphere to sample The tasting salon at Paul Hobbs Winery resembles a swank penthouse the winery’s impressive Chardonnays (and Pinot Noirs). Winemaker Jeff suite, except for that rolling hillside of vineyards just outside the win- Gaffner is a talented veteran who also works with Black Kite in Ander- dow. It’s an apt setting to taste Hobbs’ rich and refined wines. One of son Valley. The six Chardonnays from vineyards around Sonoma County California’s star winemakers, Hobbs produces multiple bottlings of share a style that combines vibrancy and intensity with richness. —T.F. Chardonnay, Syrah and Pinot Noir, but it is perhaps his Cabernet Sau- vignon that most consistently stands out. While Napa Valley is the J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery source for all his Cabernets and one Pinot, everything else is strictly 6192 Westside Road, Healdsburg Telephone (707) 433-2305 Website Sonoma-grown. Tastings include a tour of the winery, a small village of www.rochioliwinery.com Open Thursday to Monday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; buildings inspired by classic California farmsteads and designed by Tuesday and Wednesday by appointment Cost Tasting $20 Howard Backen. —T.F. Westside Road is Russian River Valley’s “Main Street,” and Joe Rochioli is the mayor. He’s been growing grapes along this winding country Lancaster Estate lane for nearly 50 years and today farms upwards of 140 acres. Much 15001 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg Telephone (707) 433-8178 Website of that is Pinot Noir, but Joe’s son and winemaker, Tom Rochioli, has a www.lancaster-estate.com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Cost Tastings way with Chardonnay. Single-vineyard bottlings such as River Block $20–$45 and Sweetwater come from low-yielding vines that produce Chardon- It’s hard to miss Lancaster Estate’s impressive gate and lion’s head motif nays with finesse and minerality. The Rochioli tasting room is a modest when driving through this quiet stretch of Alexander Valley. The short space showcasing an impressive view of the river valley and the sto- trek to the winery allows time to take in the ruggedly beautiful grounds, ried West Block Vineyard. —T.F. which include 53 acres of pristine vineyards draped across the rolling hills. Cabernet Sauvignon stars in all of Lancaster’s red blends, which in- Three Sticks Wines clude several or all of the five classic Bordeaux varieties. Walk-in visitors 143 W. Spain St., Sonoma Telephone (707) 996-3328 Website www. can taste through three of the reds as well as a Sauvignon Blanc at the threestickswines.com Open Daily, 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., by appoint- stylish tasting bar. Private tours offer a walk through the vineyards and ment Cost Tastings $35–$85 the elegant wine cave and conclude with a sit-down tasting of Lancast- The historic Vallejo–Casteñada Adobe is one of Sonoma’s few remain- er’s entire lineup in the barrel room or VIP library. —A.W. ing treasures from California’s Mexican period. William Price III pur- chased the adobe to become the home for Three Sticks Wines in 2012, Pride Mountain Vineyards converting the 170-year-old building into a unique tasting salon that 3000 Summit Trail, Santa Rosa Telephone (707) 963-4949 Website blends rich history with wine. Inside, Mexican heritage is juxtaposed www.pridewines.com Open Wednesday to Monday, 10:30 a.m. to 3:45 p.m., with contemporary touches. Stucco walls are adorned with eclectic by appointment Cost $20–$75 art and relics that were unearthed during the renovation, and case- Poised 2,100 feet up on Spring Mountain, this estate straddles Napa ment windows and doors look out to the gardens, which have been re- and Sonoma counties. The county line is actually laid out on the crush imagined from their original 1940s design. The wine lineup is focused pad so visitors can stand with one foot in each. The intensely struc- on small-lot Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from some of the best vine- tured Cabernet Sauvignons share a similar duality, often carrying both yard sites in Sonoma, such as Durell and Gap’s Crown. Guests can re- Napa and Sonoma designations. Vines have been growing on the es- serve tastings of four current releases or seven library wines, or tate since at least 1869, and the ruins of the old Summit Ranch winery splurge on food-and-wine pairings, with bites prepared by nearby El are still standing. Guests can sample wine in the handsome tasting Dorado Kitchen. —A.R. room or opt for a reserve tasting and tour in the winery’s cave. —T.F. Rodney Strong Vineyards 11455 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg Telephone (707) 431- Cabernet Sauvignon 1533 Website www.rodneystrong.com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cost Free–$55 Chateau St. Jean A pyramid of concrete and wood, this winery is a link between So- 8555 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood Telephone (707) 257-5784 Website noma’s past and future. Attesting to wine’s wide allure, the late Rodney www.chateaustjean.com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cost Tastings Strong was a Broadway dancer before becoming a pioneer in Califor- $15–$75 nia wine in the 1960s. Today, RSV owner Tom Klein is pushing Sonoma With row after row of grapevines in front and Sugarloaf Ridge as a Cabernet Sauvignon to new heights, particularly with the Alexander backdrop, Chateau St. Jean seems a world away. The winery tower Valley Rockaway bottling. There’s a broad selection of wines to taste, only adds to the effect. The flagship Cinq Cépages, an elegant Bor- including Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel and an impressive Chardonnay. deaux-style red blend, is the main draw, but the winery makes a bit of Guests have a number of options, from a self-guided tour of the winery everything, including aromatic Fumé Blancs and Chardonnays. The to a food-and-wine pairing on the outdoor terrace. —T.F. visitors center offers daily tastings as well as snacks and charcuterie

54 WINE SPECTATOR • JUNE 15, 2016 A tour of Lancaster Estate SONOMA | WINERIES

off the more well-trodden Russian River wine paths but is worth the slight detour. The winery looks every bit the grand country estate, set Zinfandel amid redwoods and vineyards, and the tasting room has the atmo- sphere of a venerable private club. While Hartford makes appealing Pi- Dry Creek Vineyard not Noirs and Chardonnays, Zinfandel is the main event. Don Hartford 3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg Telephone (800) 864-9463; is devoted to Sonoma’s Wood Road area, where a collection of vine- (707) 433-1000 Website www.drycreekvineyard.com Open Daily, 10:30 yards approach the century mark. Winemaker Jeff Stewart crafts the a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Cost Tastings $10–$50 fruit into deep and powerfully structured wines. —T.F. When this winery opened nearly 45 years ago, it was said to be the val- ley’s first since Prohibition; today Dry Creek is making some of its best wines ever, particularly the collection of Zinfandels. The winery also re- Ravenswood Winery 18701 Gehricke Road, Sonoma Telephone (707) 933-2332 Website mains one of the top destinations in the county. The ivy-covered stone www.ravenswoodwinery.com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Cost building recalls a country chapel, framed by tall trees and a shady lawn Tastings $18–$65 where picnickers gather with a bottle of good-value Heritage Vines Just how devoted are fans of Ravenswood Zinfandel? It’s not unusual to Zinfandel or a hearty vineyard-designated Zinfandel. The tasting room see them sporting a tattoo of the winery’s logo: a circle of ravens. Wine- is a relaxed space that hasn’t changed much over the years, making maker Joel Peterson founded the winery in 1976, and although it’s Dry Creek an authentic Sonoma experience. —T.F. owned by Constellation today, Peterson remains involved. The stars of the portfolio are the single-vineyard Zinfandels, sourced from 100-year- Hartford Family Winery old-plus vineyards like Old Hill and Big River. Set in a stone winery built 8075 Martinelli Road, Forestville Telephone (707) 887-8030 Website www. into a hill, the tasting room has a lively and unpretentious atmosphere. hartfordwines.com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Cost Tastings $15–$45 Tours, booked by appointment, wind through the winery and a vine- Tucked into the green canyons of Sonoma County, Hartford Family is yard, and include a barrel tasting. —T.F.

Ridge Vineyards – Lytton Springs 650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg Telephone (707) 433-7721 Website www.ridgewine .com Open Daily, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Cost Tastings $5–$40 They try to keep things natural at Ridge. The vine- yards are farmed organically, and the winemaking style eschews additives and overmanipulation. Even the winery building is environmentally friendly, constructed from upcycled lumber and with hay bale–insulated walls. Solar panels pro- vide up to 75 percent of the winery’s energy needs. Ridge bottles more than a dozen different Zinfandels, most made from vineyards 50 to 100- plus years old. One of the best known of these sites lies right outside the tasting room: the thick- knuckled vines of Lytton Springs. Paul Draper has been making Zinfandel since 1964, and the house style emphasizes the distinct personality of each vineyard. —T.F.

Seghesio Family Vineyards 700 Grove St., Healdsburg Telephone (707) 433- 3579 Website www.seghesio.com Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cost Tastings $15–$75 More than any other producer in the county, Seghesio embodies the rise of Sonoma’s wine in- dustry. Founded by Italian immigrants before the turn of the 20th century, the winery pumped out jug wines for decades before going upscale in the mid-1990s. Today, Seghesio delivers some of California’s best Zinfandels, rich and powerful reds of distinction. The family sold the winery in 2011, but Ted Seghesio remains on board to make the wines. Guests can taste a selection in the styl- ish, Tuscany-influenced tasting room or roam out to the lawn and play bocce under the shade of old oak trees. —T.F. A barrel tasting at Ravenswood Winery

56 WINE SPECTATOR • JUNE 15, 2016 SONOMA | HOTELS

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa

spring 1,100 feet below this inn remains the star attraction of the WHERE TO STAY 40,000-square-foot spa, which offers an assortment of treatments. Elegant, Mission-style decor is on display throughout the 13-acre re- sort, with rustic wood and wrought-iron accents blending with French Hotel Les Mars country fashion. Lush gardens surround the property. 27 North St., Healdsburg Telephone (707) 433-4211 Website www. Cozy standard rooms are European in style. Suites offer a more hotellesmars.com Rooms 16 Rates $338–$1,200 open floor plan, with wood-burning fireplaces and Jacuzzi tubs, as Les Mars adds a splash of European sophistication to downtown well as a balcony or patio. The property houses three restaurants, in- Healdsburg. Known for its exceptional service, this boutique hotel is one cluding Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner Santé, block from the town plaza and easy walking distance to many restau- and 38 Degrees North lounge, which offers a rotating list of more than rants and tasting rooms. Modeled on the style of an 18th-century French 50 wines by the glass, including treasures such as Screaming Eagle. manor, it exudes Old World luxury. A curved staircase leads to spacious —Aaron Romano accommodations featuring canopy beds swathed in Italian linen, period antiques and marble-tiled bathrooms, some with large soaking tubs. Vintners Inn Stone gas fireplaces set a romantic mood. Rooms are individually deco- 4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa Telephone (707) 575-7350 Website rated, and those on the top floor feature vaulted ceilings.­ A light break- www.vintnersinn.com Rooms 44 Rates $245–$545 fast is provided by Chalkboard restaurant, housed in the hotel lobby, This handsome inn gives easy access to all of Sonoma’s wine regions. and many of the ingredients come from the restaurant’s 3-acre garden. Set on 92 acres of gardens and vineyards, it is designed like a tiny Euro- End a day of exploring the vineyards with a drink at the bar, or prolong pean village, with 44 rooms in three villas surrounding a courtyard. Ac- the evening next to a fire pit on the outdoor patio. commodations are spacious and have a casual country elegance, and —Augustus Weed though the bathrooms lack some luxuries provided by newer hotels, most rooms feature high, beamed ceilings and fireplaces and all have a Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa private patio or balcony. Owners Don and Rhonda Carano of Ferrari- 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma Telephone (707) 938-9000 Website www. Carano Winery completed an upgrade on the inn last year and have fairmont.com/sonoma Rooms 166 Suites 60 Rates $209–$1,100 plans to add 33 more rooms in 2017. The inn’s restaurant, John Ash & For more than 100 years, visitors have flocked to the hot springs in So- Co., has a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence–winning wine list. noma for their reputed healing powers. The flowing thermal mineral —Tim Fish COURTESY OF FAIRMONT SONOMA MISSION INN & SPA MISSION SONOMA OF FAIRMONT COURTESY

58 WINE SPECTATOR • JUNE 15, 2016 SONOMA | DINING

WHERE TO EAT

Top Kitchens Dry Creek Kitchen 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg Telephone (707) 431-0330 Website www.drycreekkitchen .com Open Dinner, daily Cost Entrées $28–$39; tasting menu $79, $127 with wines Corkage $20 Best of Award of Excellence Now in its 15th year, Dry Creek Kitchen is like a luxury coupe, performing with quality and refinement without relying on dazzle. Star chef Charlie Palmer has restaurants around the country, but this one is literally close to home—he has a residence nearby. Part of the Hotel Healdsburg complex on Healdsburg Plaza, the restaurant is situated at the hub of three wine regions—the Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys—and that proximity is reflected in the wine program’s strict devotion to Sonoma. There are about Chef Charlie Palmer of Dry Creek Kitchen 500 bottles in the collection, and pricing is The menu takes its lead from the seasons and features locally moderate, plus it’s a Pinot lover’s dream, with farmed lamb, chicken, duck and more. Shiitake velouté comes with a offerings like Peay Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2012 ($91) and Littorai luscious dollop of peanut sabayon. Delicate coils of rich petrale sole Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard 2011 ($150). are topped with langoustine mousse. The dining room is large yet has an intimate feel thanks to columns that flair dramatically up to the vaulted ceiling. A lightly frosted glass window separates the dining room from the kitchen, with the shadowy movements of the chefs adding to the drama. —Tim Fish

Farmhouse Restaurant 7871 River Road, Forestville Telephone (800) 464-6642; (707) 887- 3300 Website www.farmhouseinn.com/restaurant Open Dinner, Thursday to Monday Cost Prix-fixe menus $79–$94; $138–$163 with wines Corkage $50 Vineyards of Russian River Valley surround this 140-year-old farm- house, which is both a restaurant and an upscale inn, making it an ideal home base as you search for the perfect Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. The dining room is stately in design, with a fireplace, racks of wine and a tranquil harvest–scene mural, and service is gracious and professional. Wine director Allyson Gorsuch keeps about 350 wines on her list, which offers a bit of everything from around the world, with gems like Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 2013 ($444) and Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast La Neblina 2013 ($94). There’s also a fine selection of half-bottles (though only five dry wines on the by-the-glass list). Chef Steve Litke blends French technique with vi- brant, contemporary California flavors, relying on local and seasonal in- gredients. Delicate Pacific corvina is paired with dashi broth. Don’t miss Litke’s signature dish, “Rabbit Rabbit Rabbit,” which is rabbit done three ways: a confit, a bacon-wrapped loin and a roasted rack served with a decadent whole-grain mustard sauce. —T.F.

Valette 344 Center St., Healdsburg Telephone (707) 473-0946 Website www. valettehealdsburg.com Open Dinner, daily Cost Entrées $23–$37 Corkage $20 Brothers and Sonoma natives Dustin Valette and Aaron Garzini opened this restaurant in 2015 and immediately set a high bar for Citrus-cured hamachi sashimi at Valette

TOP: PAIGE GREEN PAIGE TOP: Healdsburg. Chef Valette worked in top restaurants such as Dry Creek

JUNE 15, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 61 SONOMA | DINING

Kitchen and Bouchon, while Garzini is a front-of-the-house veteran. Café La Haye is modest. Emphasizing Sonoma and They make an impressive team, overseeing an open kitchen and a din- 140 E. Napa St., Sonoma Telephone (707) 935-5994 Website Napa, it offers favorites such as Bedrock ing room whose atmosphere is urban yet warm, with concrete walls www.cafelahaye.com Open Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday Cost Entrées Zinfandel California Old Vine 2013 ($40) and a high, raftered wood ceiling. $18–$30 Corkage $25 along with treasures such as Marcassin Valette relies on local farms and purveyors for his menu, and the re- Locals and tourists alike vie for tables at this small café, consistently Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Marcassin sult is creative yet true to his roots. The visually stunning day boat scal- among the best dining rooms on Sonoma Plaza. Owner Saul Gropman Vineyard 2008 ($495). —T.F. lops en croûte comes in a small pan, with a downy crust atop a stew of is a genteel host, while chef Jeffrey Lloyd works from an open kitchen, beurre blanc and fennel. Peking-spiced duck breast is delicate yet which lends energy to the split-level dining room. Lloyd takes full ad- Oso Sonoma bursting with flavor. The wine list is as enticing as the menu. There are vantage of seasonal bounty, creating complex flavors with unfussy 9 E. Napa St., Sonoma Telephone (707) about 125 bottlings, a smart selection focusing on Sonoma but with of- technique. Slices of portobello come with a light but crunchy coating 931-6926 Website www.ososonoma ferings from Northern California and Europe. Pricing is moderate with and are served with balsamic-fennel cream. A bone-in pork chop is .com Open Lunch, Thursday to Sunday; din- ner, daily Cost Plates $9–$38 Corkage $15 the likes of Lioco Chardonnay Russian River Valley Estero 2013 ($58) brined in buttermilk and served crisp, with chorizo butter. Gropman’s and Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain 2008 ($475). —T.F. wine list numbers fewer than 100 bottles, but it’s savvy, and the markup Located on the historic plaza, Oso Sonoma is an energetic combination of neighbor- hood watering hole and modern eatery. The dimly lit, narrow dining room has a Casual Dining slight industrial vibe and is decorated with a patchwork of original art, wood and cor- Bravas Tapas rugated metal. It can be lively, and at times 420 Center St., Healdsburg Telephone loud, in this popular spot, which is techni- (707) 433-7700 Website www.stark cally a 21-and-over-only tavern. restaurants.com/bravas.html Open Lunch Chef David Bush’s food manages to be and dinner, daily Cost Plates $7–$28 both eclectic and familiar. Seasonal winter Corkage $15 squash is roasted and served with a sa- Tapas are a natural match with wine in this vory miso glaze, charred scallion and ses- popular restaurant just off the Healdsburg ame seeds. Deviled eggs are mixed with Plaza. There’s a small dining room ac- crab and yellow curry. A seared pork belly cented with orange walls and psychedelic is accented with house-made kimchi and music posters, but the real draw is the ponzu, and a little gem salad is perfectly large outdoor patio in back under a can- seasoned with green goddess dressing opy of trees and strings of lights, with its and topped with pumpkin and sunflower own bar and a view of the chef preparing seeds for extra crunch. Oso’s menu is a paella in a huge pan over an open flame. small-plate concept, but the servings There are dozens of tapas to choose are generous. from, including well-executed traditional There is a compact, 40-plus-selection offerings like jamón Ibérico, tortilla espa- list of wines by the bottle and glass, en- ñola, chicken croquettes, shishito pep- tirely from California and with the vast pers and patatas bravas. More inspired majority from Sonoma and other local choices include crispy pig ears cut into regions. Selections range from a glass thin strips like fries and accented with a of Unti Barbera Dry Creek Estate 2013 savory anchovy vinaigrette, or a twist on ($12) to a bottle of Joseph Phelps Pinot the traditional bocadillo sandwich, with a Noir Sonoma Coast Freestone Vineyard duck meatball, tomato sofrito and green 2013 ($75). —M.W. olive tapenade. There are plenty of tapas The dining room at Zazu Kitchen + Farm a la plancha, including succulent sea scal- Shed Café lops with romesco and leeks. The paella is 25 North St., Healdsburg Telephone (707) top-notch, served at the table in tradi- 431-7433 Website www.healdsburgshed.com/eat/shed-cafe Open Break- Zazu Kitchen + Farm tional pans, crunchy bits and all. fast, lunch and dinner, Wednesday to Monday Cost Entrées $16–$26 6770 McKinley St., 150, Sebastopol Telephone (707) 523-4814 Website The wine list has both local and Span- Corkage $10 www.zazurestaurant.com Open Lunch, Thursday to Sunday; dinner, Monday and ish offerings; most are available in multi- Shed describes itself as a “modern grange,” a gathering spot to eat, Wednesday Cost Entrées $19–$33 Corkage $25 Award of Excellence ple sizes. A bottle of Littorai Pinot Noir drink and shop, inspired by a close-to-the-earth attitude. The build- Farm-to-table is a popular restaurant trend, but for John Stewart and Sonoma Coast 2014 costs $93, but you ing’s design is striking—an industrial-metal tribute to classic barns, Duskie Estes, chef-owners of Zazu, it’s life. The couple runs a nearby can get a glass, half-bottle or full bottle of complete with garage-door walls that can be slid open during warm farm that helps supply produce to the restaurant, and they raise every- Anima Negra Vi de la Terra de Mallorca weather. While the communal table and open-air hall give it a lively, thing from rabbits to sheep. Their incredible bacon and salumi come ÀN/2 2012 for $11, $25.50 or $47. There hip atmosphere, the café is shy on intimacy. That won’t matter though, from pigs they raise and butcher themselves. The menu is best de- are also sangrias by the pitcher ($39) or because chef Perry Hoffman—late of Étoile restaurant at Domaine scribed as upscale comfort food, with starters like foie gras on tiny glass ($11), including a very refreshing Chandon—grabs your attention, creating one of the most exciting buttermilk waffles. Entrées include cassoulet made with pork belly and cava-based version. A selection of Sher- menus in the county. Heirloom carrots are a confetti of color planted local duck, and a decadent burger made with 25 percent bacon and ries ranges from $7 to $19 a glass. Both in a pool of seasoned yogurt, while slow-roasted lamb shoulder is con- topped with duck paté. The dining room has a hip industrial feel, with Sherries and wines are served in tradi- trasted with niçoise olives and fiery red peppers. There are 30 wines to walls that can be rolled open on warm days. About 80 wines populate tional Basque wineglasses. choose from, and it’s an eclectic selection, much of it on tap. And the the list, and pricing is moderate. It’s a mostly Californian collection, with Outdoor seating at Shed Café —MaryAnn Worobiec corkage fee is a steal. —T.F. choices such as Rochioli Pinot Noir 2013 ($93). —T.F.

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