B COLONIAL AND INDIAN EXHI ITION .

I N D IA N S I K C U LT U RE L .

P T LA E I .

Euro n Cocoon- li m i ea ree n . p g ach ne, diagonal view

. T (A avelette Consono.)

[ Fron tispieca C O LO N I L AND I N DI N HI I I N A A E X B T O .

RO Y A L C O M M I S S I O N

AND G O VERN M EN T O F I N DI A

SI LK LT E C U U R C O U RT.

DE S RI PT I VE T LO U E C C A A G .

F . G . S H O M S W A L E . T A ,

HONORARY SUPERINTEN DENT .

LONDON

N L M W I L L I A M C L O W E S 8: S O S , I I T ED,

am aah a is mto fl : Ro al 020mm 19 iB b y y , H B A W. AND AT THE X T ON. R S S. 1 3 CH RING C OS , , E I I I

I N D I A N E M P I R E .

E xecutive mmissioner Co ,

- PHI LIP UNLI FFE WE N K . C . B SIR C O ,

e cretar to the Ro al Commiss S y y ion.

Commissioner or the Governmen t o I a f f ndi , K IR ED A D . B L R C UC D . W . S , L . . , B C. S

O icial A ent or th e Government o ndia j g f f I ,

A i n Y LE E S . ss sta t Secretar to th e Ro al mmi io R. RO Co ss n . J . , ", y y

S ecia l O ieer in Char e o th e E conomic C urt p fi g f o , E E A R. E D G ORG TT I . M W C. B . . , . , C. M

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A ARDLE E S M S W . F. THO , ", C. S F. G. S. L ' hi ( eek, Stafiords re .)

M3 68 3 42

LI ST OF ILLUSTRATI ONS.

The w are . Io a , cocoons, and moths shown of the actual size

P LATE

coon eelin in u i ew F mzti 1. o ach e r h i . r e iec C R g M , p g t v p e. Fi l —B omb r ma I . . x m i I . g y o ( le). 2 —B mb mr f . o x i e y o ( male).

4 —Cocoon of m unatus fromB en al Bo b yx fort g . 5 — o n f m r ed 1 n tal fro C coo o B o b yx mori ear I y mJapan seed . 1 — th Antheraea mylitta or Tussnr mo (male). z —Anth re n li mth fe e my tta or Tussur o ( male). arva of Anth ms mlit o ur sil orm IV . L e y ta r Tuss kw .

V0

—A m l . nth eraeo is r A s Assama or Mus th le ps o nth em g o (ma ). 2 -A M f l . ntheraso s A Assama or us th a e psi or nth ems g mo ( em ) . — l . ar a of Anth er th A o u l w r L v mopsis or An eraea ssama r M gs si k o m. — 1 . Anth ema lei f Ro emale . V III . y ( ) 2 —Antheraea Frith ii . (male). L—Ph ilosa male mia or Attacus ricini ( ). — 2. Phi mia or ni female losa Attacus rici ( ). X Attacus Atlas male . ( ). Attacus Atlas female ( ) . i l — arva of u l sil orm F . . At a A as XI I . g L t c s Atlas or t kw . — 2. Cocoon of A us Atlas ttac .

X III. — ula f n 2. Cric tri e estrata f male ( e ). — a a of ricula rata 3 . L rv C trifenest .

l —Actias lene ml se a e . . ( ) 2 — ar a of Ac . L v tias selene. — . on of A t 3 Coco c ias selene. l se ene female . XV. Actias ( ) i L—Anth erma Helferi XVI . F g . .

— ma An rasa or Anth ems ern i le . X VII. l . the p y ( ) — Z Anth ermor Antherssa pern yi (female). — h ms ern i. n of Anth ems. or Ant e 3 . Cocoo p y — A c ntliia male . l . ttacus X VIII . y ( ) - 2 Attacus c nthia female . . y ( ) - l Lar a ofAttacus c nth ia. . v y — o n of Attacus c nth ia . 2. C coo y

— S t ni r ini female . 2, a ur a ca p ( ) — i rot i. 3 . Sat11 rn a G e — ml . l . Loe a atin a a e XXI . p k k ( ) f m e 2 L e s atin a e al . . o p k k ( ) — La of oo a a in a . 3 . rva L p k t k List of I llustra tions.

PLATE - male Fi l Loe a miranda . XXI I . g . p ( ) 2 — msh o in th e o n t x on in fr m hich th e sca es h a e b een . Diagra w g p i ( ) w g o w l v

taken for microsc0pic examin ation . D s r ct Tussur i t i s. s c Eria Di tri ts. Mun a D st c ri ts. XX V. g i D XXVI . Atlas istricts. - Mulb err feedin sil orms of B en al. XX VII . y g kw g — mb x mri. Fi . l . of XXVIII. g Silk Bo y o — 2 of B mb x mri sh o in transverse sections. . Silk o y o , w g — h r o T ur il o f Ant e ea m tta r uss si . 3 . S k a yli lk

—" il of Anth eraea mlitta or Tussur sil sh o in fib rillise and trans erse 4. S k y k, w g v

sections.

- m or Mu s An h eraeo sis or An th eraea Assa a a il . 5 . Silk of t p g k — 6 Sil of An th erseo sis or Anth erzea ern i. . k p p y — l ilk f Actias selene. . S o 2 — A us ricini or ri . i of ttac a sil S lk E k . — l . 3 . Silk of Attacus At as — u rif n 4. l of rio a t e estrata Si k C l . — - S f h ms ama mi. 5. ilk o Ant e y a — l of a urnia car n . 6. Si k S t pi i l Leaves of Termin a ia tomentosa . XXX . eav of h or ro usta I L es S es b . I ndi Leaves of L ag erstrwmia oa. ea of Mach il odorat ss ma L ves us i i . XXX of u mmun s es Ricin co . IV . Leav s i i x Leaves of A lan th us e celsa. i XXX VI. Leaves of A lan thus glandulosa. es f Mom al Leav o s ba. X Scales f m n s ma nified 1 40 diam XX VIII . ro wi g g etem - m i m . . l B o x Fig . by or (male) 2—Anth er mli ml . sea y tta ( a e). — r m i f 3 . nth e aea tta emale A yl ( ). — 4. Att cus ricini a (male). —Attac11s c n thia 5. y (male). 6 —Attacus At male . las ( ). Tussnr on Tussnr emb r ider o y. c n -reelin machine s de iew Co oo g , i v .

Tray an d utensils. Cocoon ladle for as n scal e h alf of h r l b i , t e ea siz e . B rush es for th e b atta e scale h alf of th r l g , e ea siz e . Coc n -reelin machin e mech anical dra n i w scale one inch to th e f side e o t. oo g ; wi g, v , , o T D I N R O U C T I O N .

B E IN G P APER ON THE SILKB I N THE NDIAN ILK CULTURE COURT AT TE E L NIA \ A I S CO O L A . D NDIAN XHIB ITION READ N THE ONFERENCE ROOM ON THE 24TE or JUNE 1 88 I E , C , 6.

’ T HE u D h a was en at c o r. now ir d ard B c r C ir ta 8 o l c b M S 0. ec tar to k k y ( ) E w k, LL . S e y the “ G o ern mn t n a n A tmn h o s d : n n v e of I di Reve ue and gricultural Depar e t, w ai I co se ted to preside t o -n i h t th th e reatest easure ecause now erha s mre th an an man th e man ner in g wi g pl , b I k , p p o y , wh ich M r ardle has de ted h is time and lab ur and h is funds to ards romtin th e cau of . W vo o w p o g se ’ h r n n I he e th re ult ma as o t e evival of th e silk i dustry i India. p e s y b e as great his lab urs d eser e b ut whate er im o vement ma result in th e sil trade of ndia in c nse uence of h is v , v m y k I o q d t n m ure h e l h a e th e rat tude of b th th e admin strators and the e le of n d a e vo io , I a s wil v g i o i p op I i ’ t re to hear M r a er and d scuss t e n flu wh m me h e . rdle s a h i ences ic a h We are W p p , i h y ave i u m o in i l ead to th decline of th e sil industr and f oss e to s est s me eans f re i t. e k y, p ibl g g o v v g F r mall h e b een ab le to n te b elie e th at th e sil trade of n d a h as on e d wn b ecaurle 7 o I av o , I v k I i g o n u in to h t rodu tter si or ood s f o th e rs h ave go e p ow g t eir ability o p ce b e lk, as g ilk or less money . I f th is b e so t is not sur ris n th at th e trade of ndia sh ould h a e decreased nd t e u t , i p i g I v , a h q es ion n o w is wh eth er we can ma e b etter s l b imr in th e s l - ormor in th e rocesses of reelin k i k y p ov g i k w , p g

a n d l not detain oub mtin to d sc s h uest whi l tt r we in . atte us w av g / I wil y y p g i t is q ion , ch il b e b e e d r r l l i th t mate o f ea t h b M a d e an d th ers h o ma fol w h m. on l sa at h e c l wit y . W o w y o I will y y li B en gal is inferior for th e B ombyx mori wormto that of some oth er parts of India wh ere expe ri ments are no w b ein made he th e b e successful and in h e meantime e er effort g ; I pe y will , t v y ’ u h to b e mad t ds im r n n a o t e o ar i h x n tr of B e . rd s o rvat ons g w p ov g t e e isti g indus y gal . Mr W le b se i ” ma lead us to h e e that such ma b e th e case y p y .

PAPER.

Th e object of this Imperial and Royal Commission Collection is to illustrate the Silk ndustries of ndia in a two-f ld n r t of ericulture se . F i r h th e exac s ate I I o se i st, t p oposed to s ow t S in ndia at th e resent mmen t th i hi u f th e raw roduct I p o , e pos tion w ch it occupies in th e o tput o p , which ma b e stated to c mrise e r n t a nd to ra w s wh ich y o p ve yth i g h at rel tes to th e cocoon a ilk. is a ree led thread of se eral coc ns in one ec nd its h ase in nd a as entirel a art from v oo . S o , p I i , y p th e b reedin of th e s l - orm in th ma tur f th ri t of fab rics of wh ich s k g i k w , e nufac e o e g reat va e y il c mrises if not th e wh ole m u h l stated to b e th e th e os t . e ma b r o p , , t importan part Th se y e o g y rah s l s of en al rudel rodu m e and wonder of Co i k B g , y p ced by looms that would raise th e s il E uro ea h e coarse Tussur fab rics n n me and oth r distr cts th e ma nificen t p nt wove i th e sa e i , g k in khab s of en ares Ah l e f uch im rtant , medab ad and Surat in wh ich d and silv r orms B , go po

dec rati e features th e lain er si s of hi th elica d eaut ful s s of Th ana a. ver o v , p lk Del , e d te an b i ilk ( y

anc ent Ch ristian ettlemen t mn uf b u nd so a d race of wea ers wh ose i S ), a actured y a c urio s a i l te v , stor a w l u t in h is s el as wor l i u rated M r. G e y k is so interesting y told and so beautifully ll st by p , n ur article on th e sil s of that la in th urn l f Art 5 . I n th e sixtee nth ce t k p ce, e Jo a o Indian , No. y

th ere were 4000 w T en fam es with fourteen ooms. eavers at h ana, b ut now th ere are on ly sev ili l The rich fa r cs of e la s t not f f mTh an a th e lo el b r cades of urat incom b i Y o , i uated very ar ro , v y o S , arable for ivin b eaut and Ara an race of des n th e ruder th ou h not less nterestin p l g y bi g ig , g i g s l s of esh awar and t n h f Az im arh Ah medab ad urat i k P h e surroudin g coun try, t e satins o g , , S , Dhran dh ra and Kath iaw r th e w f d a terns of th e Pato o wea in with g a , on der ully constructe p t l v g ‘ ’ tie and d e war a nd w f th i h ur mb a utch ndore Kathiawar y p oo , e s lks of Be ramp , Ca y , C , I , and mb a all n d e rs an d wea ers dur n Bo y, testify not only to th e skill achieved b y India y v i g

man a es b ut fa e e o le s e l - o un d in th e y g , also for th e scina tions which h ave h old th es p p p l b roduction of th e ir fa b r p ic s of my stery and b eauty . 8 Colonia l and I ndian E xhibitio n .

s l s of nd a too are b a on wa not th e l t o Th e printed i k I i , , y l g y eas f h er interestin g decora ti v e t a r at it th at an thin sh oud ha e suerseded th e rman en d work . I is g e p y y g l v p pe t an strik in g - i ned c et-h an dk erchiefs h a e s n th em in n prints of the old fash o po k . I v ee b e g printe d o th e squa t t rinters with indescrib ab le in r st who u tab les of th e Calcuta p , te e , se their prettily scul pt ure d h a dexterit and exactness marvell us to see re uirin no in o nt ui little blocks wit y o , q g p p i s to g d e of atterns th emin their repeats p . n lik e th e Ch inese and a anese h a e ne er cared so muc for wha in E uro e Th e India s, J p , v v h t p o ualit which means for th e mo is termed excellen ce f q y, st part mechanical regularity in texture n and alth uh th e h a e h ad to wea e with threa ften much ar in in re ula rit an d patter , o g y v v ds o v y g g y ess et the h a e d wn to t d a mana ed s mh o th er if th e ha e h a d a and thickn , y y v o o y g o e ow r o , y v to wea e to ut so to s ea soul nto it and t rai h mmn lace fab rics pattern v , p , p k, i , o se it ab ove t e co o p uro e so often produced in modern E p . r an d so lon as th e con tin ued to use th e na h h e fro m Fo ages, g y tural colours wh ic t y ob tain ed i b eautiful d e-stuffs c uled with an in enious an r i nal ta th e ne r co uld th e r own y , o p g d t adit o ste, y ve l It is now im b g o very far wron g in co our. possi le to ob serve without great regret in passin g ndia h owth e l e of th e mdern r liant Eur rious th rough I ov o b il opean dyes h as affected, to a se d cts of th e nati e oomof t d a de ree th e pr u v y . g , o l o This I s also to b e ob served as much In anoth er part of silk decoration I n India which is as x nsi e if n ot mre so than wea in —viz th e rnamentati n of fab ri f c tt n w l an d e te v , o , v g ” o o cs o o o , oo ,

sil b emb roiderin with a sil en floss or th read. E mb r ider in nd on a r at scale k, y g k o y I ia is g e , n no n b ecause un seen Th e nati e ladi A mb d most much of it u . es of ssamfor examle e r i er k w v , p , o u f ll not for sale b ut for d mestic uses an d for mr b ea ti u y, , o a riag e an d oth er presents. It is purely carried on as an art and n ot for c mmerce an d it is rin c l h l ne da , o , p ipa ly done wit a silk that wil o y , feel ure b e in c nsiderab le demand in Eur e—I m I s , o op ean th e silk produced b y th e worm of th e Mu il - orm It An thema Assama or th e a s . was n t l , g k w o kn own to th e En glish until recent y th a t

n of his was ex rted . I t h as ften b een stated b b in A man d n d a th at it a y t silk po o y o servers ssa I i , w n r duced for h me consumtion b ut wh en as in cutta m n in ur s a as o ly p o o p , I w Cal aki g q i ie b out w h as en ed m atte nti n n o fo this sil h ich a w r se eral M r uc nd Mr. H ears . E . a . Z k, g g y o v y , 0. B k . Darrah Ofi ciatin Direct r De artmen t of A riculture Assam disc ered h lst on a t ur o , g o , p g , , ov , w i o f n s t n and search in th e nati e b az aars of Ca cutta ha m urb ans mad i pec io v l , t t th e e b roidered t e in Da re w r ed uon a cl th of c tton an d Mua si h ll emb r idered with und ed silk cca we o k p o o g lk, w o y o y h mb de w nd. T s e r i r hich h ad n v r n sen t of th e same ki i o y, b ee e y well kn own as h a ving b ee down c an d lar el w rn there b th e ati es and t t Ara a and th er art to Cal utta, g y o y n v , also expor ed in o bi o p s t As a b ut e t an d still e t in the h and o r f merch an ts was re i l of Wes ern i , k p , k p , s f a ve y ew , p v ous y h ussur si - i cl l r mb l w r ed wit l th e fawn li f hich t se ese ed. th ough t to b e o k T k, ke colour o w o y Th e h istory of Silk is so well kn own th at it does not require fromme more th an th e most n otice merel th at which is sufficient to sh th a whilst we are indeb ted to the su passing , y ow t nny fo th s ndustr it surel tra elled westward al h uh s o un t we ursel es ha East r i i y, y v , t o g l wly, il o v ve long ceased to b e th e most westwardly coun try which h as claimed a righ t to and sh own a quali fication for th e possession of a sh are of workin g in this won derful product of nature ; it has men across th e At an t c unt it mo s h and with its mther c nt followed our kins l i , il al st join s o ou ry, it b irth in a es so remtel ast for on first lea in China it foun d its wa throuh wh ich g ave g o y p ; , v g , y g rsia and Asia M nor t E uro e and in th e sixth centur it attracted th e attenti n India, Pe , i o p ; y o W n ho soon after a e it its first an d sure start at Constant no e . e find it afterwardr Justinia , w g v i pl r for a on eri d b ef re the elfth cen tur wh en it was no n and r localised in G eece l g p o o tw y, k w p actised I t reached ta in th e thirteen th centur fromwh ence it s read n to rance an in Sicily . I ly y, p i F d We are indeb ted to th o Hu uen t ersecution for its estab lishment if not its intro Spain . g o p n nd h ere it h as met with ar in f rtun es for th e ast 200 r duction into E gla , w v y g o p yea s. On th e

n b ad and as s me th n n e er so un romisin as now. whole it was ever so , , o i k, v p g a mas much ri ht alth uh n uch ancient on e to th e manufac re o i We can cl i g , o g ot s an , tu fs lk nd as an th er Eur ean c untr b ut we ma not sa th e saine of sil r win or in Engla , y o op o y, y y k g o g

er ames . tried his h and at th at b ut h e made th e mista e of thin in mor sericulture prep . J I , k k g e e t n of the natural h ist r of - ormfor it certainl was of no u of th e mulb erry tr e ha o y th e silk w , y se to h ave silk-worms creeping out of their egg s in a climate wh ere th e mulb erry leaves were not

ready to feed th em. ndia 9 I n Silk Culture.

Th e sil -w rm nl th ri es h r e lima h ere is k o o y v w e e th c te is more congenial th an it is h ere . T n o h e e or future for the r ducti n c c n in E n of a d p p o o of o oo s gland, b ut there is a good h ope goo future for the retenti n de el men nd extens n n d fab rics. o , v op t a io of th e making of silk yar s an Wh not " E n land ssesses a s lendid s man ufactur cl a re h umid or rath er y g po p ilk ing imte, mo , 1088 dr than erh a s an ther c un tr d c nditi n for in n and in sil b rain y. p p y o o y, goo o o s w di g weav g k ; wer not less th an th er u inin raduall po o nations, and Opportunities of st dy and tech nical tra g g y alth uh slo de el in e of ncient and th e b st as ell as o g wly v op g . It has examms a modern art of e , w h t e worst types ; and th ese should give th e b est incentives to make b eautiful work with eith er th e needle or the l mb l r idan oo , y essons of guidance o avo ce. Wh y sh ould we not resume our fair sh are in th e production of all that silk is capab le of in l app ied use and b eauty I amnot one who takes a gloomy view of th at which seems to some an ' im ssib ilit or a h eless efio e i much in e re i al of this po y op rt. Th re s , it can not b e denied, th v v ,

erh a s not to th se wh o are n un or of s eed p p o i search of fort e ab ove other consideration s, p y ward re .

My paper thus naturally divides itself into th e two aspects of th e question with wh ich I started : anufacturin which we too in E n lan d can sh are with our ndian fell w Silk M g , , g , I o sub ects an d il Gr win a eld f ndi in hic w nn t h e o har b ut which u ht j , S k o g , fi or I a, w h e ca o pe t s e, o g to ccu mre of our care and un n nce th an i d o py o co te a t oes. Th e h a iness and ros rit o ndia is o u o b in l ed in th e h a iness and pp p pe y f I , r o ght t e, vo v pp r s erit of E n land and n meanin and b ause of p o p y g , co trariwise if Imperial Federation has any g , ec

How ns ch erish es h r c de artments which send to Lyo e Gard, Ardochs, Drome and Vauluse p , h er dyeh ouses and looms such carefully reared silk l How th ese silk-wormrearing districts endea ur b th e mst c f n and feedin to furnish vo , y o are ul attention to all th e minutia of b reedi g g , Lyons with silk en fib re of such b eautiful quality th at th e cultured taste gives a ready preference to f b ri ' a cs produced under such condition s ; an d so with Italy in b oth ancien t and modern days I amh ere to ask wh sh all t no d t e b eautt sil aradise of ndia I , y i t b e so with us, an h k p I committed to our charge and responsib ility ‘ We are in our sericultural l th uh h a n ndia mre than ual to rance tal , wea th , ro g vi g I . o eq F , I y, ' or an th er c untr in th e w rld b e r ofi th an e en h ina for we are y o o y o , b eing in some respects tte v C ; not c nfined to o e s ecies of sil nor to two ndia can b oast of th e reatest sil - r ducin o n p k . I g k p o g , fauna in th e w rl d. Sh ul rr leaf b th o e has h er varieties of Bomb ycidae which feed on th e m b e y , o wild and d mesticated sh e l f f man s rts more or less useful o ; has h er jung e b roods o worms o y o , or to b ec me useful b -and- l d nd w ll-r ted industr o y b ye ; h er Tussur silk is n ow an estab ishe a e oo y, f - a ew years ago in exports non existing ; h er Assamese women are clad in silks of th e E ri and ' M us w rms of whic r h anded d g o , h as yet we kn owprac tically n othing ; and silken stuns a e own fr mmatron to s inster b u li n ti Of all th ese sil s and o p t ttle the worse for th e wear of a e era on. k m g so e oth ers I amh ere to speak to you; and h aving b een sen t out to India to learn of them o n th e s t it must n l in u n po , ot surprise if I return much impressed with th e necessity devo v g po us to ch erish and de el her indu ma h e reas n to n w th at our in terests v op stries, so th at we y av o k o th ere are not w ll selfish ulati ns ma artici ate ho y , and that her immen se and strugg ling pop o y p p in our comforts and success; little re ard h I ts merits h a e b een Too g as b een paid in recent times to Indian raw silk. v o verlooked and almost forgotten in the in crustations of defects arising fromnot keepin g pace with the mre acti e th uh nd c ntinuall de el in a liances for ameliora o v o g t of th e West, a its o y v op g pp

ti n and imr ement of ualit l fr m th er b ut min r causes. o p ov q y, as we l as o o o

n ia sends no I t was nl lb s. in 1 885 . I n I d to E urope b ut very little raw silk w. o y t as 2 i a annual ex rt fr m hina t milli n lb s. l st n 1 87 4 i w and in 1 87 0 2 milli n b s. a a n ; o , 4 o , g po o C o ust a h undred ears a o E ur e in 1 883 f mill n lb n of 3 milli n lb s. op o 7 io s. , and fromJapa o J y g , ur ean mar et sa e Indian silk was so g ood in quality as to drive out all competitors fromth e E op k , v n manu tu rs c uld n ot b u it it had Ch ina a d Italy . I n 1 884 it was so b ad th at European fac re o y ; l t i B ut the sil itself th at is its fib re as it gradua ly los ts reputation fromwant of quality . k , , rested in th e coco n h no l i th se h undred ears th e meth od of man i ulati n o , ad t a tered n e y ; p o , I man th e reelin of it fr mits n not e t ace with that of th er countries ; it h ad in e g o cocoo , had k p p o 1 0 o onia and I i i o C l l nd an E xhib ti n .

’ fact fallen b ac n e w rse until ndian il al f o l c i th k, go o , I s k most ound n p a e n e world s market ; and mre e en th e manufacturin e le of n l o I n f wof th n l i tri dia w ud n t b u it. a e e e d s c s o , v g p op I o y B g a t , such as Mursh idab ad and th ers it is used for wea in rah sil s b ut enerall o er n dia it o , v g Co k , g y v I is n ot to b e f und Th e manuf m th e b u h ina o . acturers of Poona told e y o g t Ch silk b ecause Ben g al sil was of such def ct e it m h n lcutta n from l utt n ares e i ual . r t e D ca o a a d a c k v q y F o ec t C , C a to Be , an d on to esh war f un d it r hin or h ara ilk nd so down a utana to P a , I o e h e C a Bok s ; a R jp Ahmedab ad aroda urat e la and h ana e er wh ere the nati e silk a i d and e er wh e re , B , S , Y o , T , v y v vo de , v y th e m sa e reason i en its wan t of th read re ularit . g v , g y n dia nl an ts h a li ati n of r i b r a i n an d th e immediate ad ti n o f I o y w t e pp c o p ogress ve o se v t o , op o wh atever meth od th e prog ress of scien ce and mech an ical art b ring to produce b etter results in E ur ope. That there is ample scope may b e inferred fromth e fact that for th e ten years en din g 1 883 we in E ngland h ave b een purch asin g man ufactured silks fromcoun tries in E urope to th e extent of ab ut annuall x ct h e f ll win interestin st tement fro m o y. I e tra t o o g g a ’ ’ Mr - J E . O Conor s Review of th e Trade of India in 1 884 85 il was im r ed to m c mll x n th n in h e l wo re i us ears n l S k po t a uh s a er e te t a t ast t p v o y , o y

- lb s. which was 1 r cen t less th an in 1 883 84 thouh still a er lar e uantit for , 7 pe . , g v y g q y r a c untr which is h eld - n r h er ma b e th e ca acit o y to b e a g reat silk producing cou t y . W atev y p y of th e c untr for r ducin sil in lar e uan tities it is clear th at wh ile n dia im rts mo re o y p o g k g q , I po sil th an it ex orts th e b ul of th e ex rt b ei mre er nl waste or ch assam th e coun tr k p ( k po s ng , o ov , o y ), y must mre r erl b e called n r u f sil o p op y an importer and con sumer rath er th an a prese t p od cer o k . M st of th e im rted sil comes fr m hin a an d fr m iam via th e traits for mb a main l o po k o C o S , S Bo y y , an d urma in smalle d - ucin r vin r e ree. E en en l h we er e r t sil r d ce B g v B g a , o v , th g ea k p o g p o , im r d ’ te lb s. of sil las po k t year. Ha in c n inced m self b l n d f th e structure of en al an d v g o v y , y e gth ened microscopical stuy o B g th er c c ns of th e w nd rful r - its its sil en th read fe lt o o oo , o e egularity in wh ich th e silk wormdepos k , I that th e fault did not lie wi h“ th e e of man ufac ture th at of reelin t worm, b ut in th e earliest stag , g or unwindin th e sil fr mth e g k o cocoon . I h ave h ad many opportunities of ob serving silk-reeling in b oth France an d Italy for man y ears ast an d f l th d in n dia as in th y p , I e t at if th e same care and applian ce s were use I ese c un tries sil of r er uali o , k p op q ty could b e ob tained. I n th at erfectl succ c dia as it told me th at an imr ed th rea d I p y eeded, and in no ase in In w p ov was not the result in e er case i ad d , v y t was mitte . Th e use of this little l r It is simlicit itself b ut a sim licit tave ette made th e diffe ence . p y , p y which is th e result of r l n ed x eri n an I t h el s b etter th an an th er meth od p o o g e p e ce d skill. p y o I n w of to n I t is th e ffs rin of th e s ill of a n k o un wi d th e cocoon regularly and straightly . o p g k talian named n and i l h e Tavelette ons no an d is mre or less I Conso o, t is kn own in Ita y as t C o , o the systemof reeling in Italy an d France ; th erefore I amnot advocating it as an y particular or pet formofinstrumen t ; still less must it b e considered th at I h ave any b ut a scien tific in terest in it ; I amn ot its agen t or protector ; it passes into my pot-a-fimof disinterested work in seric ulture ’ for ndia s d alon I goo e. il u No eff r is e r made at imr m I w l pa se h ere to consider an objection or two. o t ve p ove e n t with ut creatin b d m u ecti n antici ate th ese . h ad not h ad ssur o g o j o s an d objectors. I p I y T ex erience for n t d n th in b ut b ection s and re udices a ain p o hing . For years at first I h ear o g o j p j g st th e utilisati n of ussur silk f wh ich ceased nl wh en th e b ect rs f un d th e c uld o T , some o o y o j o o y o b ec t no l n o j o ger. n w ma b e ld h t al h uh th is s stemof reelin ields a b etter thread of raw sil I k o I y to t a t o g y g y k,

th e cost of reelin is inc n d h t with th e resen t com etiti n it will not a . g reased, a t a p p o p y I will answer this b ec i n in o j t o several ways. m i n in irst th e fault ich ot admit lies in th e c etit n a d not in th e mach e . F , , wh I do n , o p o nd t is t h a uld b e wise to sacrifice an im r emen t th Seco , I amn o d posed to admi t t it wo y p ov a t l h n can b e made in quality b ecause the value of th e raw si k is enh anced th ereb y. W e I was in h B e n h oo r l now it is 1 43 . an d th is is mre t an th g al t e price of g d reeled silk was 1 1 3 . pe b . , o e r orti nate in r ase a c mar d w th h rise f rices of oth er sil s this excess er oth p op o c e s o p e i t e o p k , ov e rs

Durin th e time th at. this a er was assin th ro uh th e ess th e rice incr o n on in g p p p g g pr , p eased t 1 53 . 6d . , a d . g to th e u " M d demand th e sto k s in Lond uit c n l w . , o are q e exh austed . Th e new supp y ill b e fromth e Nov emb er b und I i 1 1 nd an Silk Culture .

b in iml h e r sult of im r ed reelin h e h r with th tavel tt or no is of no e g s p y t e p ov g , w t e e e e t importan ce to my arg ument. h ird amcertain th at if th e talians ceased to use th e ir tavelett and ad th T , I I e opted e on e I f i in n dia th eir silk s w uld at once b ec me of less r b ab l much le alu oun d n use I , o o , p o y ss, v e in th e

h h old th eir remar ab le alues s me 68 . er 1h . er and ab o e en al sil s in a market . T ey k v , o p ov v B g k , ul a in wh ich h e I n f g rea t degree to th e b eautif w y t y are reeled . act it is possib le to b uy badly b or n l a itt r r l . mo e . 4 6d . e l le reeled Italian silks at 1 8 . p o y in f rmed in one lar e en al filature th at th e c st of reelin b this E uro ean Fourth , I was o g B g o g y p meth od would in all prob ab ility b e little or noth in g in excess of th e old method as soon as th e i reelers h ad familiarised th emselves with ts use . M of ll- n ur h th e let r fr mMr. re th e we wn urdah ilat e in whic I h ave received a te o o y, k o S F , following remarks occur l o den iers and deniers b ur Eur ean meth and h i h l I have ree ed s me y yo op od, g y m in to reel se eral b ales to test th e mar et uwill sed f it I n fa a . Y o lea a pprove o . ct I go g v k b e p is a er d silk and un win ds u d n o r hich b ea tifull . i l fin t o see th e denie s, w v y goo y Y ouwl f ul aces in it nd sincerel h o e th at it ma r e acce tab le to th e se in sil man ufac o pl , a I y p y p ov p w g k nsid r th at we h a e n e er made such o d e en siz e an d win d rouh ut th e turers. I co e v v g o v ing th g o ’ f c urse th e i er little s in a e t no n d to do th is o re s waste . ke s w ge w, a o v y r ed and h a e b een ermitted to b rin i o f One th ing h as b een p ov , I v p g t h ome to th e min ds im artial and un re udiced manufacturers in En land an d on th e ntinent th at th e en al p p j g Co , B g c c n h e nh erent im erfections wh ich it was th ouh t ertain ed to n th t ere is o oo h as not t i p g p it, a d a th a prospect of a greatly enlarged output of silk fromBengal for several immrtant purposes in th e

silk trade of E urope and America . h in th e cit wh o ma tell us th at en al sil to use a familiar T ere may b e men y y B g k, e x ressi n is f th e ast b ut ask are th e manufacturers Are th e sericul p o , a thing o p ; I , y y r l w ers of sil c uled with m o n f its t uriste Th e Opinions of p actica ork k, o p y wn k owledg e o struc m im rtance to m ar umen t th an wh at ma suit th e exi encies of th e ture, are of ore po y g y g m ld Y ouh a e h eard wh at h a e ot to sa ab u th e fib re of arket to gainsay or to uph o . v I v g y o t B en al sil —the ractica l ini n which h as ta en thirt -five ears to f rm an d a scienti c g k p op o k y y o , fi will ow i e outhe o ini n s of a fe uf r h o o pinion b ased upon ob served facts. I n g v y p o w man acture s w

h ave b een recen tly working b etter reeled B eng al silks.

irst ewin il . F , S g S k Several of th e b est manufacturers of silks for sewing purposes in Leek h ave assured m after full examinati n and trial th at th is sil is culiarl a th eir e, o , k pe y pplicable to

t rade.

Mr b n manuf ur r writes . . Gi so a ee act e S , L k , I amvery pleased with th e five b ales of Bengal silk I have just b ough t ; th ey work very freel almst runn in fr mb e innin to end of th e s ein with ut b rea in do n which mean s y, o g o g g k o k g w , indin with l T n m w ut ss. h e stra d is of nice e en siz e suitab le for th ee t e fr fro g o o v , e L k rad , ee r uh or slub b laces so much so as to render on e imortant r cess in th e man ufacturin o g y p , p p o g

unnecessar iz . cleanin . y, v , g amw r in th ese new en als in b th th e b ri h t and wash ed te d ar I o k g B g o g sta , an th ey e

min out at ab ut on -h alf th e co of ri nal n I f t i ‘ co g o e st o gi Be gals. h s improved reeling is main ’ tained it must h a e a seri us in uen ce on th e hina an d nt ra s , v o fl C Ca on w .

M r. dwin a th er manufactur r . G n silk e and resident of ilk As ion S oo , o , P th e Leek S sociat ,

ha e w r ed th e samle s ein of B en al raw sil and am leased to sa th a it is I v o k p k g k , p y t l rfec i r lin ma t i sim e t n . As to ee sa th a t und alm th p y p o g , I y y wo ost wi out a b reak fromend d ’ to en .

h is silk was reeled b me in en al with th e Tavelette ns n T y B g Co o o. Th e silk of th e en al w rm b its reater elasticit is much b e ter r in B g o , y g y, t adapted fo sew g

sil th an an oth er. ha e estimated in ex erimen ts con ducted durin h e l f da s k y I v , p g t ast e w y , the tensi n of th e h ave or doub le fib re de osited b th e sil - of h rassee or o , p y k worm, t e Bengal Mad ot weath er c c ns th e en al Desi or N m r b Th e h e b e un d an d n n s. o oo , B g ov cocoon s, of Italia cocoo

results are sh wn in th e f l win tab le each fi u er in a" o o lo g , g re b eing the averag e of numerous det m 1 2 ia and I ndian E Colon l xhibition .

ti ns and re resentin th e n umb er of centimetres whi h r imt f th e o , p g , ch t ee dec e res o e have is ca pab l of ea ding b efore it b reaks

th e surface of th e cocoon immediatel b eneath th e superficial oose fib res or

Desi Cocoon

ec nd r anz ine and r fo n S o , O g T am r weavi g .

M r. Nich ls n sil man ufacturer Macclesfield in a l t er to me r e th f in o o , k , , e t , w it s e ollow g I n an swer to ur en ui c nsider th at d urdah raw wh en ell r led len t yo q ry, I o goo S , w ee with p y of s in u n it will r th u u for talia w w ll. I t will en b e a d b tit n i h ea n p po , o k e goo s s te I , ts c p ess ’ b ein th e re n o u g aso f r its se . In additi n to th i h a M Nich ls n is s ea in of a en al i at n o ma sa t t r. s l th was t o s, I y y o o p k g B g k reeled b th e talian meth co t nd th at th ere w uld b e no rea r e enn f hread in y I od. I n e o g te v ess o t th e talian sil r l f f r in we I k ove Beng a i th e Italian meth od o eel g re used. M essrs. G . Da en rt c of to wh m sen t a rti n of th 1 0 to 1 2 deniers v po C . , Leek, o I po o e , which sa w reeled b th e Tav l n n al h a th r i int r nd tram I y e ette Conso o in Be g , ve own t o o ganz ine a , and sen d me th e f utifull E ncl ar samles o f ollowing report Th e slip winds b ea y. osed e p two th reads tra Th il i r cl W n der it e s s e an . si mand a 500 yards skein of organz ine . k v y e e co ’ e ual to rdin d nl ar talian I t r in for an h ur an b r e d wn nce . q o y I . was unn g o o y ok o o Now it is n ecess r to sa that e en with e er im r ement en al sil ma not b e a y y , v v y p ov , B g k y ex ected to ri al or s uali i of il th mar An b ecti n or two p v supersede th e fine t q t es s k in e ket. o j o fr mme ma sufii I e b h hina il b ecau on is fr m a ell w o y ce . t will n ver e as w ite as C s k, se e o y o ‘ c c n and th e th er fr h ite on I t n il-ofi or c nditi n as well as th e sil s o f o oo o oma w e. will ot b o o o k I tal h ina or a an b u i contain mre umor res th an th ese and this b rin s me to an y, C J p , eca se t s o g g , g ent ml b u f o ical int n mel it is r b ab l not of th e same s ecies t o this furth er n. o o og po , a y, p o y p , I must g uard myself against b eing th ough t slack in ackn owledgin g th e claims which at least th ree well-kn own Ben gal firms ha ve on th e con sideration of European man ufacturers for careful reelin n ri in th e g . Th e excellence of th e silk produced at Surdah a d its allied facto es ’ District of a shahi and th er arts of en al th at of the en al il man s fact ries th e R j o p B g , B g S k Co p y o , - ch ief of which m n a o oui a en Cie . is a r ur a th t th ll n firm f Messrs. s t Be ha p , d of e we know L P y , are too well n t mn i n n wl d i h much le ure th e indness received k own o need e t o . I ack o e g e w t p as k I fr m th emall d h w ll in nfid nce of all inte res ed in sil . o , an t ey are e deserv g of th e co e t k B ut a - fir s t mai much lar er ap rt fromthe efficiency of these well kn own m, h ere re ns the g nati e in dustr th e r lin a is h numer us illa s under the shade o f v y, ee g th t carried on in t e o v ge b an an almand man r i i ma of th ese and f und th e a liances er r uh y , p g o g oves. I v s ted ny o pp v y o g n ud a d r e th e re lin n f in lm man sec nds. , e g b y th emvaryi g rom1 0 to 20 cocoons a ost as y o I n th e a sh ahi D al ne ou f fil tures 63 are n ative an d th e remainin 34 R j istrict o , t o 9 7 a , g E uro ean ele n in l ed in sil reelin in this district al ne p , ven to twelve th ousand atives b e g emp oy k g o , i n 1 50 square miles of which exist under mulb erry cultivat o . imr e th eir reelin a lar el extended I f th ese village native filatures can b e induced to p ov g , g y industry lies waiting for th emin th eir own country ; for it goes without saying th at th e resources of China and B okh ara would n ot b e drawn upon if Bengal silks were of th e required quality . Many native man ufacturers assured me th ey would much prefer to b uy Indian silk if only th e

o f r n us. All quality were g ood enough . Th e consumption f silk o ative uses alon e is enormo Hindoo ar it at mals or worshi Th e Mah omedans wear Mash ru or cl th of c tt n-war s we e p . , o o o p and sil t e e in of u b c b ein f rb idden b K r n wef th w ar re si fa ri s th e a . k , g p lk g o y o

1 4 o onia and I ndian E hi C l l x bition .

do not b elie e th e can b e acclimatiz ed in ashmere th e an ab th e N W i I v y C , P j , . . Prov nces or , in Assam b ut with out doub t th e B omb zc mori can an d it is th e ro er worm to tr h , y , p p y t e re . Wh ether th ey have structural differences sufficient to b e specific I must leave to entomolog y a n d o mine If b iol t deter . th e are not s ec ca ll different th ere is sufficien t di r n og y y p ifi y , ve g e ce to g roup th em as distinct arieties of th e M ri and re t he v o , I pea t y are exactly suited to those parts o f en al wh ere th e are foun d an d thr uh wh ich for th e most art th e G an es fl ws B g y , o g p g o . I b elie v e also th e are in di enou to thi art f y g s s p o In dia. I t may b e useful h ere to sta te th at th e Ben g al silk-wormof th e rain y an d h ot weath er b un d o r - season is called locally th e Nistry poloo and Madrassee worm th at o f th e Novemb er or cold weath e r b uud or seas n is called th e Desi or h o ta- o lco worm th e are desi na - o C p y g ted b y Mr. Wood M aso n res ecti el a b x craesi an d B omb zc ortuna tus th u “ p v y y y f , o g h perh aps on ly provisionally) Con curren tly with th is b ran ch of enquiry I most stron g ly advocate th e commencement of a structural one such as h as b een started i on s an d h fi , n Ly , t at th e b res of all kin ds of coco on s sh ould under s stematic examina ti n and b e record I n go y o ed . th is way one en quiry will h elp an d stren th en th e th er. To b e o f ractical an d in dustrial use b th sh ould b e con duc imul g o p , o ted s tane ousl for all man ufacturers h ere will am sure a ree with m h a it y ; , I , g e t t is of th e first im rtan ce th at th e stren th elasticit and th ic ne ss of fib res sh uld n wn ll po g , y k o be k o , as we as th eir ar in states in h ealth disease an d ch an in climatic c ond tio v y g , g g i n s. Th e importance of th is would soon b e seen in th e comparison of Ben gal silks with th ose o f ash mere th e rth - est ro in ces an d th e an ah an d aluab le in formatio n as to clima ti C , No W P v P j , v c b i condition s o ta ned. Fromth ese comparisons with th e b etter known silks of b oth E ast an d West would b e

mad e an d im rtan t data estab lish ed . , po I n E ng lan d we h ave done noth in g which may b e con sidered to b e strictly scientific in silk n tel e are not lon b eh ind rance n d h r uc will influn ce t ortu a w a e M . e h work . F y g F , I op B k e f ia in h is dir ction ides th rn ment o nd t e . es ese oin ts we do n ot kn ow much et ab Go ve I B p , y out i l m siti n of sil an d its um or ab ut its ro rties of comb in in with th th e ch emca co po o k g , o p pe g o e r r as d es mrdants o r adulteran ts mat r en t at r on s e tru u n wh eth e . a es w c m s b sta ces, y , o I p o k p il an d d es an d on ch emica m f examination of dyed s k y , l eth ods or th e detection of th e amoun t an d nature of th e wei h tin matter too ften found in c o mb in ation with sil g g o k . h h b ect entails too reat a sacrifi ce on in di idual enthui sm I t wan ts liftin T e w ole suj g v s a . g n of meth dical and scientific w r and no one can h e n doub t of its ultimate i to th e sph ere o o k, t i industr an d its ent ura e usefulness to th e s lk y o g . n of th is su esti n wh ich desire so much ress at th is ortun e Th e importa ce gg o , I to p Opp mmen ma well furth er emh asiz e b mentionin th at th is wee h a e recei ed fromth e o t, I y p y g k I v v Lyons Ch amb er of Commerce th e report for th e year 1 885 of th e Administrative Commission of to r for h e stud of silk latel founded b th is h amb er sh all b e lad to sh w it th e Lab ora y t y y y C . I g o to n n af r th e lecture a yo e te . - h mne Amn st a s of sil w rms th eir c c n s and mth s two of t e w. It contain s three pl te k o , o oo o , o g oth er thin gs I ampleased to ob serve th e prominence g iven to my examin ations for th is Ch amb er of mmrc of th e stren th elasticit and thic ness of a lar e n umb er of sil fib res which Co e e g , y, k g k , , - b orator ccu no t irt six a es of th e re rt. with th e results of th eir o wn la y , o py less h an th y p g po I only mention this to sh ow th e h igh importance th e Ch amb er attach es to all th at relates to fib re x of th is lab rat r w r h a e n ot exceeded £200 wh ich was th e con struction . Th e e penses o o y o k v ,

estimated sumvoted . it not time we did s methi in this direction America with ut an real sericulture Is o ng , o y , l x n din sil man ufacture b oasts of a s len didl con ducted il ournal b ut with a rapid y e te g k , p y S k J , h ut one feel sure th e nl wa to reco er a leadin ositi n is to whilst E n glan d remain s wit o . I o y y v g p o o commen ce original research and collective action and eff rt . n d ff rt h with ut c llective o n di dual nter rise a e o . is We h ave trusted too much t i vi e p T , o o

ion ill ne er et us in to th e fr n t or e en in t a res ectab le sition as c mared with act , w v g o , v o p po o p n d b oth th e roducts of E n lan d and n dia will contin ue to suffer in comaris n with Fran ce, a p g I p o c h are erf t o n of lied sci ntifi rese c h th ose wh i p ec i ned b y th e leave app e c ar .

e h n l r w c It is th ese worms wh ich produc t e B e g a a silk of ommerce . ndian i ut r 1 I S lk C l ue. 5

e i t fuure in st re for ericulture in ndia is b e nd d ub t and if nl the Th at th re s a grea t o S I yo o , o y s a me en ergy were applied as th at b rough t to b ear on th e production of Indian wh eat and Indian t e a th e da w uld not b e far distan t wh en th e sil centres of E ur e w uld desire th e silks of , y o k op o o f h ina and a n B e n g al as much as th ey nowd those o C J pa . ’ That India should take a fair position in th e supply of th e world s demand for silk is not for

n to ainsa . On th e contrar ndia with a reatl increasin ulati n th e E n g lish ma g y y I , g y g pop o , n tinent at eace wrth itself and a r win t n a t ural result of a great Co p , g o g securi y fromdepopulation n an imro ed sanitar administrati n and mre scientific medical en li h tenment d b y fami e, p v y o o g an es with ut sa in th at En lish men of all th ers sh uld feel th e rea i n s t ruction, it go o y g g , o , o g test possib le material welfare of ndia and es eciall in e er th in i i n t e rest in the I , p y v y g wh ch tends to th e and stimulus of h er aried industries articularl one which is so o r g a n isation v , p y capab le of b eing r s o widely spread as Sericultue . ur silk as ada ted for ex rt h as b een durin the last ten ears er sl h ss , p po , , g y , v y owin taking ndia and lar e su lies h a e h ad to b e ob tained from h ina to meet th e r o o t in I , g pp v C g radually ' - ean demand. At the aris E xh ib iti n of 1 878 Sir hili g r o win g Europ P o , P p Cunlifie Owen deter th is sil an rtunit of assertin itself and after ard in t mi n ed to i e k g , w s, h e ndia useum g v oppo y I M , ha i ca ab ilities and uses sh uld b e c ns icuusl de icted N t h e took care t t ts p o o p o y p . o a little of th e r wth of this useful th uh wild sil is due to his enc ura ment i n d ustrial g o o g k o ge , and nowin th is E x h ib ition can b e seen th e fruits of all th e care which h as b een b esto wed upon it in various mmre th an leased to state th at ndia now h as an en rmu demand w a and a s . ys, I o p I o o A numb er of gen tlemen in India are vieing with each other to impro ve th e meth ods of

an with sin ular success. In th e cases set a art for Tumur sil are sh wn results h ich r e e lin g , d g p k o w ould h a e b een th uht to b e imossib le Alread th i ca f r o w . is sil s ab l f a a . few years ag v o g p y k p e o th an e er b ef re and alth uh it cann t b e ex ec o more extended uses v o , o g o p ted, n account of its d r erties to ta e th e lace of th e mre b eautiful sil of th e B omb cid it as its s tructure an p op , k p o k y ai, h h it was uht su m s a nd th se in a much h i er de ree than e er th sce tib le of. , o g g v o g p h sil s alread men ti ned th ere are th ers such as the Eri i b t in m Besides t e k y o , o , a s lk, o a ed fro th e - rm wh ich ill raduall find extend utilit r a e 1 1 t ricini silk wo , w g y ed y ; and g e t l ssons will b e h o care to b ser e in th ese aried exhib its b th in th e r elin of th l e arnt b y th ose w o v , v , o e g e cocoons, of th e waste fib res and th e d ein an d wea in of the sil s t h e spinning , y g v g k . d s of the Gan es en al is ca b l of rod n On b oth si e g , B g pa e p uci g silk to a vastly extended not nl en uh for all the re uirements of ndia wh ich are reall e r reat b th d eg ree , o y o g q I , y v y g , o mb r ider and min r ur ses b ut for a reatl increased ex rt trade nder for weaving , e o y, o p po , g y po . U i ndian w r utifull o r n u isi n th e nat e s b ea . H s mre E uropean careful s perv o . v I o k y e care fo patie t manual lab our and real h andicraft traditional work th an h e does for prog ressive thoug ht or i is not to b e w ndered at th at it h as b een left to th e uic er b rain and the desire in vention , and t o q k for development th at ch aracterises th e people of th e West to produce results wh ich find a ded un uided efforts can secure readier market th an his own unai and g . f o r nsib ilities with re ard to n dia and am l d to one I h ave spoken b efore o ur espo g I , I g a b e o f those wh o feel more for India in those respects wh ich relate to produce which we can b uy from a to sell to her h er than in those which we h ve . n i a dut we owe to this b eau ul untr and we To see th e exports fromI d a grow is y tif co y, b uch a ractical and unsel sh re ard for h er welfare w uld sh ould b e gainers th ere y. S p fi g o constitute the strong est b onds of Empire Federation and enab le us to look upon our Indian - - fellow subjects more in th e spirit of the now a days too rusty Ch ristian precept of loving our mb odied and ex ressed b Mr E ursel es h a il e . dwin Arn ld in his s nnet neighb ours as o v , pp y p y o o ‘ ’ preface to his India Revisited.

ndi f rewell l sh all not see a ain I a, a I g T hi i sh res th e les of t e sun h y s n ng o , y p op h , G le s f mannered b a ind w rd on en t , o t , y k o w ’ To such quick k indness l O er th e Arab main Our flying fiag streams b ack and b ackwards stream uh ts to th se fair en fields l e My th o g o op I ov , a e maidan un le r e City and vill g , , j g , g ov , Th e te mples and th e rivers : must it seem 1 6 Co onia and I ndian i i l l Exh b tion .

’ Too g reat for one man s h eart to say it holds man man ndian sis r d So y y I te s ear, So many unknown b roth ers th at it folds Lakhs of true friends in parting Nay I b ut th ere m h l i Lingers y eart, eave tak ing ; and t roves ’ mh u ut his d l r t to h w rin he no an e . F o pe g , k ws, ov s Go d b e 1 Go d ni ht l weet ma ur sl mb ers b e o y o g S y yo u , Gunga "and Kasi l and Saraswati l

The a er was illustrated b th e aid of a diss l ratu b x m es sh o win p p y o ving view appa s, y e a m t e en lar ed micr sc ic a earance on th e screen of the b r mn ti ned b e h g o op pp fi es e o low.

1 . tt n sh win its fist an d twis ed b re of cell Co o , o g t fi ulose . ' llu id 2. lax Th e elementar b res of flax Lini mum are cells of e c F . y fi ( wm usitatissi ) p memb r nes ined end to end with cane-li e int b etween hich f rmthic ened owe ls with a , jo k jo s, w o k v fib rous matter ; along with th ese are seen th e woody fib re or tissue consistin g of elon gate d c e lls or tub es with ta erin extremities wh ich o erla each the and b their uni n lon itudina ll , p g v p o r, y o g y " th e b called h em or fiax form fi res p . e s ical w l fib re sh win th imb ricati ns at its ints Typ oo , o g e o jo . - r ib res of h inese w l n F C oo . v Merin w l mri an A e c . o oo , a ib res of M h air M hair is th e w ol of th e An o ra at of Asia Min r a F o . ( o o g go o ).

ib res of Al a a Al aca o l is ma lama of P u. fl F p c . ( p w o fro L er ) o o Kem w ol b py o fi res. o Di c seased wool. 1 ical mulb err sil 0. Typ y k . l l Mulb err sil s f n m r T t l ba es o ue ual dia ete . h e have is h d ub th read . y k q e o e as deposited in n e il -w Th i h n th e cocoo b y th s k orm. e b rin is e t er of th e si gle th reads or fib res composin g the Th e have and conse uentl th n di m i h me c c n i ba se. e brine ar i a eter n t e sa b e n q y v y o oo , g thin ner in a d last rti ns reeled and thic er in the middle Th e two brine are f n f th e first n po o k . o te ound to b e f n ual diameters and th is ccurs ms in th e rst and last i ns l o u eq , o o tly fi port o ree ed from th e

' il fr mc co n of th e Madraseee or Nistri oloo sil -w rmof en al B 1 2. S k o o o p k o B g ( omb yx creed )

Rain y an d h ot weath er b und . il fr mc c n of th e Desi or Chota oloo sil -w rmof B en al B omb x ort 1 3 . S k o o oo p k o g ( y f nna tus) r ld weath er b und Novemb er o co . - - il fr mth e c c n of th e mulb err fed sil w rmof hina . 1 4. S k o o oo y k o C mth e coc n of th e ussur sil -w rmof ndia Antheraea li il fro m tta . 1 5. S k oo T k o I ( y ) il fr mthe c co n of th e ussur sil -w rmof ndia Anthems: mlitta sh w 1 6. S k o o o T k o I ( y ), o ing the laid in th n b -w formin which th e silk is e coc oo y the silk orm.

ussur sil d ed b lack . 1 7 . T k, y Mu a silk - rm A il fr mth e co c o n of th e w n thcraza Assn/ma . 1 8 . S k o o g o ( ) he Eri il -w rm Atta il fr mthe coc n of t a s c us ricini . 1 9 . S k o oo k o ( ) ' ilk of th e s ider Ne hilen s malab arensis ale f und at the a e of hi m 20. p gy , k, Ti l in S p W o L k B , - b r n . u ie E . r h estern i ces . th f h Kumaun Distric t t v , y J , s , o t e tanical Gardens , No W P o F D q Bo ,

Sah aranpur. N DISCUSSIO .

a m M h all said that Mr. rdle h ad c ared th sil of u . ars e h ndr Mr. C . W W o p k a ed years ago n time b ut it must not b e f r tten that h with th at of th e prese t , o go wh ereas t e former was produced in th time of th e mno l and was of e ual ualit th at r duced nowwas ad n e o po y, q q y, p o m e i great part ' b th e nati es onl fre uentl with ut suer isi n and h e did not thin th ere was an y v y, q y o p v o , k y falling ofi in th e quality of the silk reeled b y European firms ; indeed h e was quite con vinced that there ardle h ad n f th mar e nt Mr. s e o e t in E n t was an improveme . W pok k gland a the present time and d it with th at at alcutta wh en h e was th ere six mnths a o an d h ad compare C o g , sugg ested that the rise in prices which h ad taken place in that time was in un due proportion to th e rise in the value

o h e sil enera ll and wh ich h e attrib uted to the ro ress made in th e reelin f t k g y, p g g during the time I ndian Silk Culture . 1 7 h e h as b e en awa I t w r m en n l n . as ce tain th at an ro m t h ad ta e ace o e of th e use b ein y i p ve k p , ca s g th a t th e Ben gal silk now wound b etter th an formerly ; ends h ad dimin ish ed b y more than th ree uarte r H o s. e uite a reed th at much c uld b e done for en al sil s b ut it must b e b th e q q g B g k , y assista n o mn o n c h ce f th e G ern e t. F r insta e with re ard t e dis f h rm of h ich ov , g to eases o t e wo , w th e n a ti es at resen t new n thin s meth in could b e done b informin th em f th e r l v p k o g , o g y g o esuts o f E ur ean research intin out th e causes of disease and th e meth ds of re en in th e op , po g o p v t g m. T h e n a ti es h we er w uld n e er rear c co n s acc rdin to E uro ea meth ds an d an th in v o v o v o o o g p n o , y g l o written on th at subject woud b e so much waste paper. T a great exten t th e remedy lay with n tlemen in n land b ecause th se interested must n wth at th e r duti n of n l s h a g e E g , o k o p o c o Be ga ilk d for so me time b een almost nil ; th e reason for t his state of th ing s was th at E uropean firms in in fac t h h ad t ifficult ll I n dia h o b n ma in mne t e rea d in xistin at a . f u ad n t ee k g o y, y g y e g O co rse e er man must consider his own interests and th e mar in of r fit b ein so small th e ere v y , g p o g y w - - a i He th uh t th b u ld n c ompe lled to go on in a h and to mouth f sh on . o g e yers wou b e consulti g t in rests in th e future if su sin th emto b e d in an b etter in th e a of rofit h eir o wn te , ppo g o g y w y p , t h ey would make over a little of it to th e produce rs now unless th ey did this th e reelers could ' th il alth uh it c uld b e d ne immedia l if th n ot afl ord to improve e s k, o g o o te y ey met with proper support . uf tur r f n k . w l h lson .P sil man ac e o ee uld ot i e th e meetin to . A Nic se ara M r . o , J , k L k, o g p te h wn of ee to sa h ow ra tifi ed th e we e to see r with out one word fromt e to L k y g y r M . Wardle

n nd th sil industr en rall h en Mr. Nich ls n c omin g to th e front to assist I dia a e k y g e y . W o o first we n t int b usin ess a reat art of th e sil used was from en al b ut after a time it b ecame so o , g p k B g , un workab le th at man ufacturers were completely at th eir wits end to g et suffi cien t to meet th e an n sil came to th eir rescue an d r ed th eir sal ati n for th de man ds of th e trade wh en t , ey , C o k p ov v o He was lad to sa th at the n ow ot sil from en we re enab led to quadruple th eir output . g y y g k B g al

and clean and wh ich reeled freel with er little waste . It h ad c me too which was n ice le el, , y y , v v o m for th e ant n sil h ad sh own mar ed deteri rati n durin th e last ear or at an opportune ti e, C o k k o o g y h r f re a o d rtun it to ta e ad an ta e of a sil wh ich would ee u two . Here was t e e o g o oppo y k v g k k p p

rh a s e en su lan t the h inese sil . B ut it was not ssib le to a a th e standard, an d pe p v pp C k po p y th an hin ese sil and th e reelers must l to rec er th eir ositi n b h ig h er price for In dian C k, ook ov p o y mand I was certain th a mor uld b h ualit and so raisin th e de . t t e w e used if th e improving t e q y , g o b een recei ed latel me of th at n quality were main tain ed equal to wh at h ad v y . So se t lacked il nd was th eref re n ot suitab le for s me ur ses b ut th er th e b on e of Ch inese s k, a o o p po , e h ich it c uld b e ut if th e ualit of 25 or 30 deniers menti n ed b M r were many oth er uses to w o p q y o y . d n il of th at ch aracter was last ear ab o ut 1 2a this season it is Wardle could b e relie upo . S k y ,

i mar in of 1 8 . 6d . h e did not c n m h hi nese is n l 1 38 . h s sider too uc while No . 1 1 48 . 6d T g , C o y o reel b ut it could not b e increased with ut dri in manu b ecause th e In dian reeled more f y, o v g h th er matters b ein e ual referen ce w uld of c ur fac turera b ack to Chinese ; alth oug , o g q , p o o se b e r n mi h e r ductions of th ei o w E re. g iven b y E nglish silk manufac turers to t p o p n tated th at h e h ad latel b uh t a uan tit of th ese b etter reeled en al M r. S . G ib so s y o g q y B g h e were amn st th e b est h e h ad e er sil s and h ad f und themmst satisfact ry . T y g h ad in h is k , o o o o v il s ould find in t machines and h e felt th at th e hinese and Ja an ese s w h ema mst f rmidab le , C p k o o

rival. tah a ur testifi ed to th e er reat assis tt late ommissi ner of Ch o tan ce Mr. Mr. Hewi ( C o N gp ) v y g

su esti n s for reelin an d de el in ussur sil in h is -district Wardle h ad given h imin gg o g v op g T k ,

n d and c ntain ed an ab un dance of th is sil . I t w uld result i which was ab out th e siz e of Irela , o k o n d in re intr ducin a mst aluab le in dustr to th e c un f th e sil an tr . spreading th e use o k , o g o v y o y ll iece of lan d in th e f rests wh ich were n o Formerly th e natives cultivated a sma p o , w b eing t was n ecessar to in struct th emth at th e trees c uld b e as well culti ated n ear cleared, an d i y o v uld th en reac h a osition similar to th at their own h omes ; no doub t Tussur silk wo p occupied b y dle for h is disinter M r. ar ested lab He h eartil ined in th an in urs. oth er silks. y jo k g W o

h an ed M r. ardle for h is eff r Mukhar i as a n ati e of ndia, t ts to re i e the Mr. T . N . v v j, I k W o v w uld oin in an r an iz e ff en al silk trade and b elie ed his c un tr men y g d e ort to b rin this B g , v o y o j o g He b elie ed th ere were th ree ob stacles to th is first th e industry into its proper place . v , s l wh ich c uld b e cured b mre careful cul ti ation se cond dete rioration in th e quality of th e i k, o y o v , h e in r ducti n of th e r cess describ ed b M n h ich c uld b e remedied b t t y r. the faulty reeli g , w o y o o p o B 1 8 o i a n hi C lon al nd I dian Ex bition.

Wardle th e third ob lesse ned es eciall in ettin rents reduced fromth e ex rb itant ch a n ow made h e r er tin , p y g g o rges w e v

mulb err tree was un der culti ati n Mr. Muk h ar l assured Mr ardle n d th E n l ish sill . a e y v o j . W g man ufacturers prese nt that he would on h is return to Beng al do all h e could to in duce th e n ati“ reelers to imro e th eir me h ds and th at h e was certain th e w uld uite de rmin p v t o , y o b e q te e d to such measures to improve th e quality as would b ring it up to th e desired E uropean stan d ar d

Mr. . . h m f d n a cu . Keswic of t e fir o Messrs ar in in er Co l tta th o u h t J J J k, . J e, Sk C , g th e attenti n M r. ardle h ad a tracted to n dian i th e h int h h ad e a o W t th e I s lks, s e giv n, n d examles h e had sh wn w li el to b e r duc i f r reat o d b ut h e l k to p o ere k y p o t ve o ve y g g o , oo e d G ernment ta in u th e mtter and b ein re ared to sub ect sericulture in n dia to e ie n ov k g p a , g p p j I s examina At th re n e E n lan hin d ran an d t l n tion. e p se t tim g d was very much b e F ce I a y i ma n d h w dl a d h f tter a e as lad hin th t th it o o r. ar e n t e en er o , g to t k a e vis t India f M W , g y uc h ad induced th e G ern ment to ta e the mtter u for in th e resent da scientific re se B k ov k a p, p y as h uide to e r hin w t e g ve yt g .

o Mr n n b in l sed te s f th an s to Mr. ardle n Mr uc r o b . i ce t so n c Vo k W a d to . B k (p op sed y V Ro ) o th e proceeding s.

I h ave not thought it necessary in th e foregoing paper to discuss th e ob stacles wh ich urel l cal h i h rentals of mulb err land which are tellin seri usl on B e n p y o , such as the g y , g o y ser u u ic lt re .

h ese ill b e foun full treated of as well as su esti ns for ercomin th e m in T w d y , gg o ov g , s eech th e 8th of nuar last n d since b p at th e Silk Con feren ce in Calcutta on Ja y , a pulish e d G ernm f e im r meth ds of reelin su ested ent ith illustrati ns o th ed . ov , w o p ov o g I gg I amh appy in th is place to ack nowledg e th e assistance I hav friend M r u mb a ilst writin th is catal ue . He h as . w G pte, of Bo y, h g og supplied th e explan ation and description of th ose fab rics h aving local meanin g n otab ly th ose whic h contain decorative treatmen t symb olical of th e religious fai e les n i d r Nos 8 — 240 wh ich r full of d a such will b e f und un e . 3 9 1 9 9 a e of in r t p op I , as o , , , te es , well as h ot ers. - ur Th e d in xhib its of L id ersian e wea in b G. escription of th e in terest g e o P fig v g is y M r. ermin ham B g , Leek. i r w d d m Art M t b Mr. G een an son h u h an are d m tant M r. r y ks ue to y assis s, R g y, oo , y . All th e exhi it i th h eads of r in ces with a few exce tion s hich b s w ll b e found un der e P ov , p , w h ave b een una oidab le win to th e arran ement of th e sh w cases. v , o g g o amindeb ted to M n eur aill for se eral s ecies of li in larvmand c c n s which I o si A. W y v p v g o oo , , with th ers b rouh t fr m di ed of hi h interest to th e ub lic in the ilk ulture o I g o In a, h ave prov g p S C urt n n mo u n is d . M nsieur aill in diti n to b ei an e to l ical st de t an imo n Co o W y, ad o g og , p rter a b reeder of an d d al r in f ilkworrns th eir e s and lar ae and it ma ful e e many species o s , gg v , y b e use to th e numerous enquirers at th e office of th e Indian Silk Culture Court an d to th e pub lic ifI

i e his addr u r oad Norb iton urre . ess. I t ud r illa d g v is T o V , T o R , , S y il h H e m r h ib its of l nial at t e wish of . h a e arin o e E x R . H t I p p g a rep rt on th Co o S k , . Executi e residen t which will b e ub lish ed b th e ciet of Arts with ther in dustrial v P , p y So y , o reports. I ndia i n S lk Culture. 1 9

C A T A L O G U E .

SI N G A APU R ND B U RM A.

und l ur w i r f l on red r . C s h te b der o th i i I . P l aid si g , , s ece is in wa fest ns k o o o o p vy oo . per l all o w oran e and b ac . Fr m in a ur. h a 8 c nventi nal cl ud wea , g k o S g p o o o ving as in China

on d r un d. l urs wh ite an Ja an mT 2 . P laid silk re , . ro e nnase rim ur ma. g o Co o F , B i il h ran e and b lac . h is la d 8. s awl fr m al lo w, g T e u urma with r o k p S k o P g B , ed th uh tfull in d ub le wh ite war an d ellow h tn e d e r y , , w ite, reen b lac b lue v y o g o y , and g p g k, , ub l ure f b lac red ft T a res intersected b d e s a s o we . he r cess of w m , y o q k, p o eaving this fab ric a n ell w lines—an excellen t dis sal of is intricate and intere tin rd , d y o po s g ; it resemb les th at h an l s i f l ed n e s in tersecting at rig t g es. Th i des l w in wea in s me car ets wh ere o o v g o p , one iv h e idea of a cr ss in c l urs inside wh i te unb ro en th read of th e es t o , o o , k weft is not laid from

o 1 r m in a ur. one en d of ua res as also in N . . th e fab ric to th l , F o S g p e oth er along th e Sil ece stri ed with ell w white red en tire b readth of the lo m 3 . k p y o , , , o , b ut is drawn aside re e n an d pilac b ands in th e war an d red in and sub stituted at in ter als k p, v , an d used ag ain wards of twent lon itudinal when re uired to r d h e weft. Up y g q p o uce th e fi ures of fish g , E h stri e h a nea t b rder b irds an d animal ac as . tripes per foot. p o s Th is is a splendid speci in ur men of m l r m a . th e ani u n ea ch side . F o S g p p ations of th e h an dloo ms of

sil with the war in b lac red th e farth er E ast. T Woven k k, h e red warp and b lack weft n3 ell w stri es and the we t d ed in b ars in certain rt i ns of th i . y o p , y po o s fa b ric pro duce a very e n fir t t e l in ur l if e ll w and b lac b st e i it s in h eas e . Th e con en io y o k y p g p g p p v t nal appea rance f l o d and th en t in n ts after th e of scales of fish som b e l w ye, y g k o , , e lue an d oth ers reen g , is ur ti tie-and-d e meth d remar ab l in r n a n n er of the G a , te estin . ish es j y o k y g F , turtles and , h t tin t in s me arts and finall lotus flowers stems .0 protec t t a o p , y , , b uds and lea es are v , also h b h is is a seen in ite e in the arn in t e lac dye . T tan s or small la es an d p g y k k k , aunts

u a d er interestin attern . Th e and eac c s ccur i curio s n v y g p p o k o n other parts of th e esi n g , aran ce of mn t n and re ularit h as one art of which c n i ap pe o o o y g y p o s sts of th e sec tio n of a be e n a ided b a shad w ell w interlacin ase filled with dee rub , -col ured vo y o y y o g v p o silk . On a tte rn after the st le of th e Gree fret h a in the rim of th e ase stand p y k v g v two g reen parrots b e e n laced in the l n itudinal stri es. r m facin each th er and a ar n l p o g p F o g o pp e t y g uarding a a ch a lice wh ich is la B urm . p ced in th e centre o f the Th war in white ell w ase on h ub tri ed fab ric . e t e r sil . T 5. S p p , y o , v y k h e pattern work is in reen ran e and mar n b an ds an d th e weft wh ite salmon reen ell w g , o g oo , , , g , y , b lue rub an o , y d - d ed b n t t in in c rres ndin tin ts. i let on a red silk r und i y y k o y g o po g v o g o . w th h ere and th ere - romAva urma. hinese li e e mb ellishm F , B C k en ts of silver thread on itudinall stri ed fab ric with reen lines s arin l in t u 6. r d ced L g y p g , , p g y o . This is no doub t b lack ellow oran e and mar n in th e we ft a uddh istic cloth b ut a , y , g oo B , I msorry I h ave not la c redominatin an d co rres o ndin tin ts b een ab le to find an ( b k p g), p g explanation of its evide nt -t in I n all s mb lis b n t . m in th e weft produced y k o g y o . ’ m i th ere is an 0 vious in ten o man ur a eces . s armen th ese B p 9 W g t from British Burma

ti n to a id a distin ct line or ed e . I n this with desi ns in con nti n o vo g g ve o al fig ures o f ele fab ric it is done b a sli h t erla in of h ants lions and e y g ov pp g p , g ometrical fo rms witn

col ur at th e ed es of th e stri es and in N . 1 2 r se ttes resemb lin s m o g p , o o g o e of th e sculptures on ur h E n b sh adin and une enness of col . r m t e lish runic cr sse s. T h y g v o F o g o e warp in this exam le is d ed i a . n h i Burm p y w te yellow reen a , g , nd ’ W man s armen t. Th e war in white red while th e weft is us o g p , , ed in plain alternate l w b lue ur le and red tints roduced b b an ds of red and whi e o te . y , , p p , , p y Economic useum M , - b n a u ft in ds. h lc knot tying and th e we a T e C tta.

M ADRAS RE SIDE N C Y AN D TAN P JORE .

’ ’ man s armen t in b lac and ell w 1 . B ed sari wi t o. 3 , th an interestm Wo g k y o g pattern l w is w en in d his laid the trans erse el l . la d. In t adras p i p v y o ov g o M . red minant and is ch aracteristic of th e 1 Green and red sil p o k and cotton sari 1; . Tan ore Madras. From j , ’ w ac man sil fab ric in red h ite b l 1 . s u. Stri k , , k 5 Wo en t from Ami , N l tl

and reen B urma. Arc t in red lai s and b lac li g o , p k n es with ye llov: ll w r n e nd b rders and en . Stri sil iece in e a a ds. h 1 2 k p y o , o g o T is fab ric h as b road B urma ell w b rders ith wh white . y o o w ite and b lack lines 3 2 2

’ stin trans erse b ands of artial oman s rme t red with ell o w z i an d intere g v p 30. W g a n , y ftin lines and rett b rder r m B e n al we p y o . F o g il from adras with dar b lue and M sore Stat 1 6. Sk M k y e . ’ i r u r minatin nd ellow str es da b l e edo a 1 . man s ellow an d red l a id S y p , k p g 3 Wo y p ‘ w i stre . wit inters ersed with h te a s h red b orders an d old en d T h is l. p k g s. r m r m a l . lain rah ran e h an d e chief r e ar b fine Sari with er co n v e n tio 1 7 P Co o g k . F o k y , v y

tn Madras. fl ow r o Kis a e in tr s in th rd r. n , g ee e b o e From T a j il dress iece in er neat laid wh ite Madras 1 8. S k p v y p , , . n ore Madras reen and red . a . Sil laid in h i g T j , 32. k p w te R d sil ac et iece emb roidered with r mT o M dr e an re a as. 1 9 . k j k p F o j ,

r wire . ro r n ed old and sil e mMad as. il iec in r n r d h ite atte F . e ee , e w , fl g v 33 S k p g , lac sil emb roidered with attened laid reen red minatin r m 20. B k k fl p , g p o g . F o w G ld ower s ri n s a d M . gold and silver ire . o fl p g adras ’ f r o ice . rom o ular s ots. sed o b d s man rmn in b l irc . s a e t ac c p U F 34 W g k, ’ man s armen t in wh ite e ll w red mar n s uares an d ellow line s 21 . Wo g , y o , . oo q , y n the war b ein in ell w b lac and in rs e d ith ld h read ro a d b lac te rse w t . m k, p g y o , k p go F , wef s i t nd and th e t in c rre nd n . ub i whi e b a s r n ld b rders. m , o po g 3 T a wth g o o F ro n this ex am le th e we ft wh n n ot Ma3r e . ti ts. I n p as

. h e co our of h ell w which is t l t e b rder is 6. iece in red an d wh ite laid y o ( o ) 3 P p . ust as it reach es th e in n er side of an ore Madr en b ac as. tak k j T j , th w r threads of th e b rder on b th sides A laid in wh ite an d b lack wi e a p o o , 37 . p , l in th at art b ein ta en b a ne w an d mr in al lin s r n ore M ad ra a . om a s. its p ace p g k y g e F T j , wef Th b r r a l mentar ellow t. e ade b nds Sil iec in hite and b lac supp e y y o 38 . k p e w k are made to te rminate at th e in n er b order in - on rom an o n o b li e serrati s. re . ettico t l r mMadras. G r n a c m . a si f ee deep k F T j 39 P k , o t ub sil l in cl th with er rett b lac an d ello w b lac sh t wo n o n t 22. R y k o o v y p y k y , and k o ve r m rh ur nd wh ite b rder. B e am b lac b lack a o F o p , k

0. M adras. 4 lac sil sh awl with red reen an d b lac 23 . B k k , g k l r rom d f om an a e . Mad re n wh ite b or er r B g o F ras. g e Red sil sh awl with wh ite reen an d 24. k , g 41 .

r r m an al re. u lo a r orde . From dd re M d a yellow b F o B g o C a , s. O

ued sil scarf. hite fi ured b odice i A ch armin ld an . i r 2 il ece. 25 F g k W g 4 . S k p g g o rims n and wh ite b order in cones red admixture o f colour in re etitio n o f j centre, c o p s b ott n o d t th e to an d mwith a arro w n arr w rett b rder attern romM o re. b oun de a p o o p y p . F ys b rd r in b lac an d red Fr m an a ur le satin tr u rin with wh nd . se ite b a figured o e k o B g 3 . P p o g t te ur ro und h itj M sore S a . his fab ric h as a le with w lore, y T p p g ’ oman s arment with f rcib le b lac wa tran s ers b ars in ten tionall v r irh " 26. W g o k vy v e , y e y ’ id with ellow sides and e n s m la d ul r r m uran ab ad H H. th e n . a A . N and ora g e p y g F o g , . iz a t n erse b lac b an ds termin ate in a dee territ r Th e tra sv k p o y. r mAmi North Arc t i A a i erration . . h ite sat n mushroo . d m triple s F o , o 44. W ask d d in wh ite red and u l d Sil lai r e. stri ed attern in . Fr mDeccan H d era b a 27 . k p , p p p p g o , y , ’ o e M adras. h Niz am terri r t e s to . n r H. FromTa j , H. y i with narr w ello d Red sil ece w lines . Red satin with stri es of old th rea 28 . k p o y 5 p g c lin s an d b b la cross e old . l r si . r c d ed s ots. an a e ed l omDe can H d in te rcept y k g p p k F , y e rab a amle of th e simlest and n ur le satin b rocade in of n ex o e of . t Th is is a p p 46 P p , a pat ern iti e t es of ld b r cad r l r t fl r s ri s i f ti th e most prim v yp go o e . F om sma l p e ty owe p g n requen t re pe d r D c n a as. rom e ca H derab ad. re M tion . Tanjo , F , y mn shroo with white l o et P ur le satin z i z a . e satin n a red war ivin a iol 29 . p g g 47 B u p, g g v ‘ ellow and red-d tted lin ri ed with Fr d d es. c t m u an A efle t s old. A ran b a b an ds y o , p g o g a a ’ r mMadras. ect. errit r pleasing eff F o Niz ams t o y.

B OM B AY PRE SI DE N C Y .

mB l a ur omb fab ric fr a . o m H h i 8 . il G ld r ence t s wer is consid r 4 S k o j , B y g oo . flo e ed very d r un d 11 for b odic s ou n re e . T au ici s colour o g o , h e sp . ” si n is called mi hul or th e fl wers of th e w uld call attention to th is utif de g p , o I o b ea ul fab ric. is i antea wh ich made in t a wreath wh ich is a t ical s ecimen Cala trop g g , ( o ) yp p of B iiapur de uired for th e marria e ceremn of th e si nin c l urin and w re ea in . are q g o y g g , o o g , v g one are

caste Hindus. th er exam les in th e omb a h igh o p B y Court. I am All oth er preparation s and ceremon ials are indeb ted to th e Bomb ay Committee for this ‘ cess ries of th e most aus icious an d er interestin exam l b ut th e ac o p v y g e . A very eflec tive ’ f th b ride s uttin e o e th e ac ed a c e i r u essential on p g s r ppearan s p od ced y small spots arranged th of th e mi r und the nec of th e b ride in diamonds b etween th e flo wrea o k wers. To do full

22 o d a Col nial and I n i n Exhibition . th e Guerath m a l uiful l m w e . or ilk sh w b ea t n his ariet of em b . Odh ani s j o T v y 79 , , y e ” b r ider is called resha mi B ha r m or b r idered with sil on c tt n als old a n d wi th o y at Ka , o k o o , o , wo o r d ne in h an ti c o o mirr r ent b Mr ardle . d s t h es t s . k as posed th e o . L y W K archobi or w r me n ted d ne on the ram rom . nterestin iece of red satin rn a , o k o e . F 80 I g p o urat mb a . i w t nd s ots S , Bo y with mnute hi e ba ana p .

1 . An th er emb roidered sari b rder r m 7 o o . F o urat omb a S , B y .

2. il and cotton mashru n f r 7 S k (sati ), o trouserin fr m urat B mba in r ll g , o S , o y, ed, ye ow, an d wh ite stri pes.

. Sil and c tt n mashru sa n for 73 k o o ( ti ). trouserin fr mSurat B mb a i b a g , o , o y. n red, yello w, and wh ite stri es mll ri f b rders with o ld p . gsa . S a se es o lace o g G n . ree sil a d t mb r d E xh ib i e b Nam M ia n B . n c t n n e i er . t d 74 k o o maslmt (sati ), o y y for u rin tr se . m urat i u t mb a ro mb a ha h ra . g , y . , o F S Bo S k S , Bo y il b d f o A h m s r cade . m e d ell w wh ite and r d on 8 . Kin h ab ad le cl th r 7 S k o , y o , , e , 3 k S o , b lac§ r u n d. Th e desi n is d b ad B mb a G ld and sil er on dark ur le g o g compose of , o y . o v p p trian ular wed e-sh a ed ch r und Th e d i n is wor ed in with t he g g p aracters in wh i g o . es g k b ordered with ell w with a ma o e mb lem of ar T h e eacoc for in sta n c e y o , s ll red sp t s w . p k, , the n ce tre. Th e b ase of th e trian gles is in an is th e charg er of Kartik Swami the six h e ad ed u ri h t osition . r m urat rmb a son of hi a and th e eneral of th e ce lest ial p g p F o S , B y . S v , g

6. Sil b rocade whi b arm Th uri h t l m twee n th e ea c o c s te n d e l w o n . e a b e 7 k , a y lo , lack y p g p p k r und h s o g o . T e design i c alled Char Khono ma again is e mb lematic of th e eternal mn ume n t ” char dani or s ua i o r hai a m le to , q res with flowers h aving four ra sed in fr n t o f e ve y S v te p eta l T o p s. he squares of which this desig n is c ommemrate th e victo ry of Shiva ove r t h e comosed are set di mnd-w ian t Tri ur which is ann uall illuminate d a ll p a o ays in an ex g p , y ceedin l n eat dia er on i let r r und cr wned with a b laz m li h t on th e ta g y p , v o g ound . o , o g g p l . Si b r cade white ell and b lue to remind th e de tee h o w th e reat en em was 77 k o , , y ow, . vo g y

h is is the same desi n as d b urnt after h is fall i n th e b attle. hiva is th e T g 7 5, b ut on a re S r un d . The s ts are r u od o f destructi n and h is name B ar B ar een. m rat g o po g Fro S , g o , ” omb a B y. Mahadevi was th e war cry of the Mara th a s.

8. atin with cotto n b uc mashru in reen Th e b rder of th is fab ric is elab rate a n d 7 S k ( ), g , o o , white and ellow etri rom is c n lution with se en - etalled o wers s. m a a , S a y ur t b y . , F , Bo o vo v p fl

P a tolo . his fa ric is a do licate ofNo 50 f ur dee su esti e of ersian f rm inte r T . , o p, g g v P o , ’ an of the same ur or h errin -b on e desi n . I t is a bride arment s ersed with narro w motich g s g , p , g i e n as a resen t d T h e w le b rder is on crims n sil g v to a b ri e g enerally b h er b orders. ho o o k, p , y maternal uncle durin th e ma i and is in ch armin c ntrast with t h e ur le , g ni a e. I t s g o p p w en with war and wef w i roun l of th e centre a rt or fillin of th is ov p t, h ch ave b een g p g se aratel tied and d n f l in h ab p y yed b y th e b andh ana meani g u k k .

r cess. Th e d er ta es a m b o Kin h ab tab le cl th in ld and sil er p o y k s all un dle f 84. k o go v , war wh ich h as b een d ed i h i inters ersed with ur le reen and red sil p y n t e l g htest p p p , g , k, c lour f un o d ion f h dl d n th e war in the fin ish ed iece on b lac b ack . It is an a a tat o t e sad e o o p p , k p an d draws in n l uo o h o to th Eur ean drawin -ro m e ci n it me lin es at cl t N . 85 e p p so , , op g o , measured d n i T h rro w ch ista ces cc rdin an t is the same des n . e a t h i a o g to th e desig n to d i g p , b e r duced H s n u n he desi n ofthe b o rder is . i wife th e ie h zlk i h e c hief fi re i t p o t s t e s , s t g g , a l n h t e s aces mar ed ti h t o f i e b ird in ndia. The de si n in the o g p k , g ly r und with a avour t I g " ” c tton th read th r u h whic h th w n o d of he fab ric is ca lled ta mmanda l or o , o g e dye ill t b o y t , en etr te ord fiv -f ld a . I t is th en d ll i n of stars. Th e b er in e o p yed with th e next conste at o , dar er co l ur found u n th e w b an is n wn in ndia b th e name of o at k o po arp, and th e ds, k o I y p p “ ” r ce ss is re eated until the d which means a cree er with arr ts p o p arkest colour is nela , p , p o ’ reach ed T w e si n th e arr ts h eads h e h . d . eft is t en treated in the same Worked in I n this g p o wa in rd i o 3 the h ads are er th at in e l m h t c turned b ac b ut n N . 8 e y, o , th oo , w en i rosses are k ; the war c n Th Hind os w ea h of its colours ma l om n ir natural sitio . e dra p, y exac t y c e i th e po o in c n tac t with th e same c l ur h ir arr ts b o th wa s th e M ah omedans nly o o o in t e warp . th e p o y , o The little n rn b ac ar b u dles of warp h ave next to b e with th e h eads tu ed kw ds. From

arran ed in th e l mb h e wea er wh o t A me dab ad mb a . g oo y t v , akes h , Bo y

th e little b un dles of we ft one at a time usin Kin h ab saddle cloth . h is is an older , g 85. k T

each in its own lace th rouh out th e desi n examle of th e same atte rn as . 84 and p g g . p , p No , T he P atolo is a t l uth Kensin te n Mu speciali y of a rov ince wh ich e long s to th e So g seum. inc d t lu e s h e t H h ab mb a . errit f H. m r o . t e Ga r mA ed ad o y ekwar of F o , Bo y ar da H H n ith ll w and . . the ab b of mb a an d h I laicha or sa ti w e red t e . B o , N o Bo y, 86 , , y o sil wea in districts of Ah medab ad ur d tted lines an d ell w and ur le strea s k v g , S at, o , y o p p k , - and r ach . rom urat mb o ucin h err b ne effect. his cloth B o F S , Bo ay . pr d g a ing o T is

a . Odh ani or sil sh awl utif l . o l f r l or outr r arb s wi h 79 , k , b ea uly em us (I n y o th e burk uis g , t b roidered an d ornamented with small circular which th e P arda or Zen ana w men c ver them m o o irrors. r mC utcb . An old iece e nt b sel es fr mh ead to f ot h a in onl a coule of F o p . L y v o o , v g y p " r rdl a e . small h les co ered with auz e for the e es. W o , v g , y t r 23 I ndian Silk Cul ue.

T h is is one of th e mst curiousl wo en an touch ed with indi Cutcb B om o y v go . . fa b rics in th e urt Th e lines are in n arr Eg Co . ow y . v e rtical stri es of h alf-an-inch ur le and h alf il laid fr m hana mb a in p p p 9 4. S k p , o T , Bo y, a n -in ch old c l ur so arran ed as to r duce white red in ur le an d b lac th e red in g o o , g p o , , p k, p p , k, d i a onal b ar f n of old b r b an s i g s o purple a d th e same g oad ds acros th e p ece .

a l tern atin acr ss th e i E ach n arro w . i ured silk dress iece in b lac and g o p ece . 9 5 F g p , k b a nd is h i m b rdered with alternatin white and w te . h aste eometrical desi n ro o g C g g . F d d ts re . r m ura b a h ana omb a t m . o F o S , Bo y T , B y

8 . Gha ro or etticoat d b lac u n 6. i ured sil dress iece in re and 7 g , p , yed k po 9 F g k p g y c rimson r un d wh i m d si n th e b rde r art b ein st ed te . a e e n as No. 9 5 r m h a a g o , o p g opp S g . F o T , o f b not mb a t in . mb . y k y g Surat, Bo ay. Bo y

88 . Kin k f x h ab rom Ah medab a omb a . . Sil laid in wh ite b lac and red . E , d, B y 7 k p , k G o ld or red su r ul T i n is cc9len t dis i of in nd n r m o h des s tion l a b a ds. , peri q a ity . e g po es F o c a lled mohor ba n di fromi re mb ance to th e h ana omb a ts se l T , B y . ld Moh m or coin of n dia. 8. all atter of h ana sil s E xhibited g o I 9 S p ns T k .

. Kin b 8 h b f m b mb a . Mr. ardl a r m Ah ad e . 9 k , o eda , Bo y y W G ld o n cr ms n o . Emb r i r h mb a i r un with een d ts rd fr m atc . d r . dered b e C o , o g o , g 9 9 o o o , Bo y

0. Kin h ab fr m A med b ad omb a Hun on th e ch i f ntrance of he h ouse of th e 9 k , o h a , B y . g e e t G ld on crim w ndian m .i e w rsh i r of th e son roun d ith reen d ts. erch an t or B e ia th e o , g , g o I , o pp - 1 . B andhana f m m hite ddess of wealt a s i whose lotus sh a ed sil r b a . h hm 9 k, o Bo y W g o , L k , p an d ell w on red B andh an me ans n t thr ne is wor in th e desi n in ters ersed y o . a k o o ked g p t in and is deri ed from th e Hin du erb with b its of sil ered lass roducin a leasin y g , v v v g , p g p g ‘ b a ndhi to tie Th f mal fi r n circle effect Th h l da s of ndia . e e u r e es i th e . l i , g , e g eat diva t o y I , a t th e end re rese nt o o r h es of the wh ich ex n d fou to six da s b e in , p g pis, t e wiv te over r y , g - co w h erds of Krish na t i t in i n of ith th e w rs i s i h en the wh o le , h e e gh h carnat o w o h p o f Lak h m, w

ish n u. Th e ele h ants n d th lo ower i of he t l umin te d n d wh en th e V p a e tus fl s n t own is i l a , a th e b order are sacred to a h mi th e o ddess merch ants and b an r in ite th eir cust mers L ks , g ke s v o , of wealth and th e wife of h n u h is ar friends rela tion s and ac uain tan ces to th eir , Vis . T g , , q men t is worn b th e aish n ovi e women of sh s s eciall de corated with ictures and y V t op , p y p u G rat wh o are of th e Vaish a or merchan t car ets and 00 iousl li hted to recei e th e m. j , y p , p y g v c l w ass th e rsh i e of h odd of wealth . After h e cuto wo i of th e ddess , o pp rs t e g ess t s mary rsh p go , Th e in troduc tion of th e se symbols in to the and the new accoun t b ooks fo r th e year wh ich desi n can b e easil traced to the in uence of c mmences th e next mo rn in an sua ri or g y fl o g , p p , reli i n on n dian A rt th is b andh ana b etel lea es an d n ut sweet meats n se a s g o I . By v s, , o g y meth d th e white sil f b i is o d d int two and erfum s ut d amon th e uests o k a r c f l e o , p es are di trib e g g , fo ur ei h t or sixteen f lds like foldin a letter wh o ur in on e a fter anoth er till mid h t , g , o , g , po , corresponding with th e n umb er of repetitions of visitin g th e shops th ey h ave b een inviinigto “ ” th e desi n r i ts r h ono ur n I t is o n th is da e ured . re ea e g q I f two p a e with th eir pr se ce . y wan te d th e fa ri f r f ur r th a h t d rwa and , b c is folded once ; o o e t t is specimen is tied to h e oo y ” eats twi “ m it l ce for ei ht re ats th ree ti es s o d redece sor remo ed. p , ; g pe , , p s v

&c . On th e u ermst of th folds th e desi n Gree n si emb roidered scarf or sh awl pp o ese g 1 00 . lk

is rinted in lin es th b loc s in red ch re fr m utch b a worn b women . his p , wi k , o o C , Bom y, y T mixed with u n ar an d No W b b h uran das th e son m ara ic d h en ts e . 9 9 er len Tri g b , an t k o e t y , i h t tl tied a t in t rvals lon th e lin es with of Sir Man alda ath ub h ai of omb a . g y e a g g s N , B y c o tton h r mb a t ead in w h t wh en th e . Sil b odi i tro oona , such a ay t a 1 01 k ce p ece mP , Bo y ; fab ric en ters th e d e b ec th e d e will not wh ite with s uares in re d dotted lin es and a y k, y q , , enetra te to th e on th e old b ord p small portion or spot g er.

cloth r u fr m e la. a nd wh r is tied . Th e S ilk n o n cloth o ich th e th ead 1 02. a d g ld loi o Y o fab ric is th en ith a lum an d his fab ric o red on on e side mordanted W T is curiously w ven , d d d r of e oran e . h n noth r desi n is rin ted an d ello w on h o h r and its b r e is y g T e a e g p y t e t e , o uon it in th e in of th e first wh ich ld and di ifi Sil loin cloth s are p terspace s go very g n ed . k remains tied th e secon d worn durin an o f reli i us cere , knots are tied on g th e pe rform ce g o desi n and th e All th e k n o ts mon ie n u n ls wh en cotton cloth is fab ric ed r . s a g , dy ed d d ri g mea , are th en un ti mall id ittimb ar in ed th e fab ric s read on a s con s ered imure . I t is called , p p p

raised latf rm an d so e f h e ran e s ts Sans rit as well as in mode rn lan ua es. Th e p o , m o t o g po k g g touch ed i h l a ello w clo th w t indigo to make t hem g reen . word pitmdnbar mere y means y , B andh ani is th oc m urat an d th e ro b ab lit i at his fab ric was e name of th is pr e ss G j , p i y s th t b ut in Ra utan nd r h ere Hinduis alwa s ellow wh en it was first in troduced and jp a a Ulwa , w y y , s o en it 1 8 B an dhana alth ou h it is n o w d e d red reen ur le p k , . g y , g , p p , m 2. il a ha na fromGurat. ello w a nd ran e or b lac it still retain s its fi rst na e 9 S k b nd , j Y o g k, , wh ite on red An exam le of th e most rudi o erived in all ro b a b ilit from th e n atural , . p p y h n u m k . is entar wor d ne b n t t in and illus ello w colour of th e B omb zr. mori sil y k o y k o y g , y y V “ ” tratin th e roc is called P ita mb a/r-dhdri in m th olo ical g p ess. y g “ wh o Sl lk h n d f in ba n dha na wor . b o k s. h is n ame literall mean s one 93 . a kerchie k o T y i o me b rs a l o his is an e la b o te desi n and s s ea el o w c l th . T ra g , y mond -sh a ed s o ts what similar to 9 With th e addition of 1 0 . G ree n sa tin with dia No . 1 3 p p reen s ots me o th e ellow s ts h a in of crims n with ellow and crims n rin s, g p , so f y po v g o , y o g n ition 24 Colonial and I ndia Exhib . white red and ello w s ts r duced b b and d es not o further acr ss th an th e el lo w , y po p o y o g o y d t o b m . h ana w r T h e b rder is red with white an cen re . oona B a o k. o , P , y w tw mles 1 0 an d 1 06b we re ell s ts. Th e lar er s ts in h e cen tre of h ese o exa 6a y o po g po t T p , , th e iece are diamnd sha ed nd com sed of man ufactured in oo na un der th e su er isio n o f p o p , a po P , p v n r E Dir to r A ricuture B o m M . . . z ann ec of l co nce tric crimson an ell uadran les. C e d y ow q g C , g , r mPoreb an da r mb a b a re sidenc to illustrate nati e d es a n d t h e F o , Bo y. y P y, v y

m r ide ar with re n ur le s o f oona wea in . . E b red ch ad t e 1 04 o , g e , p p yp P v g

B an n i . r m a ch mb a . and ran e sc r lls surr undin lar e red discs 1 0 . dh a a s l t o g o , o g g 7 k F o C , Bo y n t t f m hi a ur ran e and in dotted z i z lines on b la c k represe ing he ull oon. FromS k rp O g p k g ag w nd m und i h red ts. in i b a . r t s S , Bo y g o po i m le B l c w fi b . m B od iece er inter tin exa a silk ith ne ld rd r r . es es 1 05. k go o e F o 1 08 p . A v y g p o f dec ration Th e b r er h a dee c rimso n n mba . sed for b odice o d as o a s. . Po , B y U o o p wi h l oc e r un d with d ub le rows or her of white fl we rs hela scarf t d b e . A r e 1 06. S , go r ad v y g o , o o r in r n ol l T h e inte est g and ornate example of gold weaving b etween g ee and g d co oured lin es. Th e ends b earing very b road gold b ands den ote s middle part of th e cloth is anoth er example o f h a it i for a w m om oona mb a s ts arran ed in diamond sh a encl sed in t t s an. r o F P , Bo y. po g o

l . e ll w uares. e aum m 0 . R d silk b dice or itamb ar l in e s B o 1 06 o p , a o y o q B g , y old e n mb a Emb ro idered tticoat in ellow wh ite iece b rd r. a . 1 . e p , g o Poo , Bo y 09 p y , ,

b Th e descri ti n of No 1 02 a lies to and reen . hikar ur Si d B omb a . 1 06 . p o . pp g S p , n , y ’ l ur l i h n th is with th e exce ti n th at 1 06b is e l w on 1 . s scarf e w t red ree , p o y o 1 0 Boy p p , , g , b o t nd llo w r u b rde . h i a . s r r o r und. a e r r h ides. de ld on ilk o Bo , g red s g y o S k p i u in i n d The oin in of r d and ell w we f th e 1 . l scarf l n i red wh te a j g e y o t at 1 1 S k ( g ), , , b rde r in is in er tin he ell w weft reen des i n “ith ld thread crims n roun d . o l e t es g , as t y o g g , go , o g a a in d mb a T tt , S , Bo y.

PU N JAB .

- - 1 1 2. A dress trimmin o E n lis d n et mn f h ma e 1 2 . al c l ured iece of sil rom g g 9 S o o o p k . F mb r e o ide red in D lh line b old scroll d si n ah re . e i. A e g L o o f fl o we rs a nd ms work n und b u G n ste ed i ed t 1 0. ree and red sh t si y 3 o lk piece. Fro m cleaned h ara sil ss. ch arac te ristic ah ore. er hands me l Bok k flo A L A v y o si k. and m o d exa le of th e Delh i st le of 1 1 . Red sil iece with w te ertical lin g o p y 3 k p hi v es. m e b r ider . romAmritz ur un a o y F , P j b .

1 1 . ell w and red sh m elh i 1 2. Green silk t sil . r iece wit 3 Y o o k F o D , 3 p h red lines. Fro m un ah r . P jab . L o e A er lar e i il i 1 1 . ece of s mb de . 1 ld colo 4 v y g p k e ro ry 33. Go ured and red silk piece work ed I t is a ceilin c er nd is l H in se rr n a ca led indi ated b a ds. rom ah g ov , F L ore.

h and . mMul b an i r n un a . fi ta 1 . ne hm C F o , P j 34 A Cas ere woollen sh awl with em

1 1 . tri ed sil in dull red ld and b roidered b orders of un d ed cl hi 5 S p k, , go , y eaned w te silk .

white . r mthe un ab . Elab ratel o r F o P j o y W ked. Gre il om a un b 1 1 6. s . r h re a 1 u e l w . . . l e l o and w ite rin ted il y k F L o P j 35 B , y , h p s k . ur le i o ilk m h re his 1 1 . ece f s . ro a h as an in r t 7 P p p F L o , T te es ing wh ite sc roll pattern on a n lar Pujab . g e scale run ning over the yellow and b lac k

1 . G reen sil i with h r m desi n w 1 8 ece w ite lines. h ic h is er ec uliar and k p F o g , v y p effec tive . I h un a b ou i a re b . h t t in eshawar b ut t in L o , P j g P , I h k it is pro n m o 1 1 . ra e and red sh t sil iece. r a h ara r 9 O g o k p F o B k p int. un b - Delh i a . 1 Soz ni or b ed c , P j 36. over emb roidered with rims n sil i ith l r i 1 . ece w b d r s l uon c t 20 C o k p ye low o e . k p o ton . Th is remarkab ly fln e piece

rom ah re un ab . of emb roider wa r b a F L o , P j y s p o b ly worke d away from Dar . re i of . h w 1 1 ece sil r m a re . esh a ar o sib l n 2 g y , s i hara alth ouh such k p k F o L o P p y Bok , g 1 i h t reen iece of il red rd r exam es d . ma h 22. s b o e l are now e t er T b o d L g g p k, p e . h e l trea t

r m ah ore . ment of masses of reds b lue reen an d F o L , . g yellow Red l m are effective n d h d 1 2 . i f si ll rd r a ece o e wb o er. t e esi n 3 p k , y o F o , g g enerally den otes a ah r b readth o o L o e. f concepti n no t usual in emb roider r n m rimson n 1 2 . a e iece of sil red b rder. r a d scarle t are fr l 4 O g p k, o F o C ee y in troduced si e b si L ahore y de. b ck ue and ll w low order. la n 1 2 . l e sh t sil el 1 . ell w a d 5 B y o o k, y 37 , y , wh ite rin ted silk B o p , imil m ah ore. s ar to No 1 3 ro . 5 . esh a F L P war. of l r m ah r b u l i e si . o e 1 . E m 1 26. P rp e p ec k F L o 38 roidered Soz n i or large square silk l e . mb r 1 . lac and ran e sh o t si i ce e r ide with 27 B k o g k p o y, red and g old coloure d silk Th e ch aracteristic of th ese ah ore sil ieces w r ed uon a h inese sil atterned fa ri L k p o k p C k p b c . l r o h m ah re. is is th eir stiff and el et fee . o is r b abl the finest soz ni exh ib i v v y F L T p o y ted . ’ mn t lun i h it t d t i 1 28. Man s ar e , w e wi h re I s a aluab le old iece with b eautifull g , g v p , y dyed s u a a un b . res. r m h elum c l ur q o o s. In F o J , P j possession of Her M ajesty th e 2 I ndian Silk Culture. 5

h de cri tion of h i w ll e li No . 1 36 t e s w h uee n E mress. I t h as b een e re r duced scal e c " p p o , k , p war u i n b c mlith o r h b ill a l to this rom esh a . a s a n ll strat o h r a w . i , y o o g p y, y pp y F P

mb r idered sh ee s in o erc at. ent M r i th urn of n di n r . E . G r in e A gg s Jo al I a t. 1 42 o p k v o L

I t i u os ib l i fr a M ardle . Th e shee s in is richl s ite s e th s came m h ar b r. q p o Bok , y W p k y a l t h u h So z uis are n o w in wor ed at emb r idered all o er in a d desi n with old o g b e g k o v goo g , g h as no b e e em d war r fou c olour ss. Th e w l t n r e P e sh a wh e e nd it. ed , I flo oo ov ,

1 lue ellow and white rin ted sil b ut forms th e in terior of th e co at. I t is worn B , y . p k, m i a f h an s and thers and is called a l ik e . 1 r b il t r A 0 35 m eshawar. . F o P y y g o , r n d e l ostin It was rob ab l emb ro idered in Kabul e ha s m r n l w r . 1 0 . ee e ed 4 A v y o g , y o , , p p y w n d h u b ou h t it in esh a ar. ur lai ro sh aw . t o h a p ls p d. F mPe ar g I g P 1 ilk emb roider d Soz n i r b ab l a 1 rinted auz e in crimson b lac reen 1 4 . e P o y 43. P g , , k, g ,

ra e r c i ir e as i is b d on l on t an d ll ou h t t esh awar. y t, t emr i ered h e e w. g a p c p o y y o B P

sid es h a lain r . n a lar , wit p cent e O very g e

- I N N ORT H W E STE RN PROV C E S .

i n - n o n o h r s ar uh o co u d f r E uro ea . T e der e 1 . c s er and u x o ce n taste b 44 A v , a p re e ample f p o th e Kinkhab weavin g of Ben ares in gold on all interesting . b lac sil . r l h . n ura k k 1 60. Pup e s ot silk piece B a k , mi ar ush en l . A si b u . 1 l i n r to . 1 44 t a 45 C o Cove No , B g

in ld uo hi e i lac r b lue an wh ite sil laid. n w t s l . e d g o p k. 1 61 B k, d, k p

1 6. G old emb roidered b lac sil ca r m Murshidab ad en al. 4 k k p. F o , B g n a r u le an lai B e . r uff sil d Mu es . b 1 62 P p d k p . rshi - 1 . G ld on coral c l ured sil K ab dab ad en al. 47 o o o k inkh . , B g M h o l r rn Frou n r hite an d b la laid . B ha al ur atte . . c si o p rBe a es. 1 63 W k k p g p , 1 l l B n 48 . A cost y coat of silk c oth rich ly em e gal. b r i l i a u l lai ur h i dered it d. h te nd r e sil d. s o w h g o FromBenares. 1 W p p k p M

1 . Kin h a b in tran s erse b ands on dar dab a B en al. 49 k , v k g b lue s o a wh l il . el b in Mur An a r t om s 1 ite and b ac sil laid. e attern . r en are . 6 . k p F B 5 P k, k k p Ki b h l 1 n h a urb an 0s ri h l n s idab ad en a . 50 . k T , m t c y wove , B g wi h a t l b rd ur le an d sil l id. Muteb i d ers nd en n r b ful 1 . wh te go o a ds, a d ve y eauti . 66 P p i k p m n Fr enares. dab a al. o B d, Be g 1 61 to 1 66 are an interestin ariet of well E g v y B NGAL . h m t ough t out for s. 1 1 B aluchar Sa h i b de n 5 . ri. W te roca o

ur le r und. erh amur al K A e n . H A. p p g o B p , B g BO R ucha r Sa t n 1 2. B al ri. ello w wh i e a d red 5 Y , 1 A curious iece o f er n r 66a. p v y a row silk sil b r cade on re r un d rhamur en . e k o g g o B p , el et or lush -li e fab r c in c n en ona v v p k i , o v ti l en al. B g car et desi n in reen ur le red ell w an d p g , g , p p , , y o , ucha r S 1 . B al ari. h ite and red sil 53 W k cream lour o h ra c . a u o B k . b r cade o n r le roun rh mur en al. d. e a o p p g B p , B g - fab ric s a r i th e E a ha Pile cut re ra e n st. I ve B aluchar Sari Oran e sil b r cade on 1 . g k o n ot met with an y silk velvets in India of ur e r un d with wh ite and red b order an d p p g o , , n t a ive make . oran e wh ite and r n n h mur g , ee e ds. er a , g B p A A A . n l R JPUT N Be g a . B luchar Sa i b n h en f a 1 . a . ur d r c i ld i r m i ur l 55 ri F g e o ade 1 666. O C lle o J p . Twe ve wh ite red and ello r r r mats sli ers b xes an d tassels e ll on u le und. e ie s , , y w p p g o B p ce , , pp , o . W ’ ur n l i o h am e a . wo h exa min at n f r h t eflec v lour p , B g rt o b rig , ti e co B uc r a d o 1 6. al ha S ri. h ite sil b rocade on in desi n an excellence f d ein in reds 5 W k g , g y g , b lue r und with wh r ol c ur b lac n b u and h i ite and red b rd r B e d l ree l e w te . g o , o e . o o , k, g , m g ha ur en al. n l mb o t 1 c. Gree e et b a e r idered wi h p , B g 66 v v g , ucha r a n . B al S r 1 i ran e sil b r ade o ld ai ur . 57 . O g k oc go . J p ur le r un d with n ur l mb red ran e n a d d. le e et b a e r i er d w p p g o , , o g , g ree 1 66 P p v v g , o d e ith h ite b rder and en i w s d ur. s. il r a o s ve . J p - — . B alti c/tar a l imen of n 1 8 S ri Red b ro ade on red 6. E ab rate s ec tie d d 5 . c 1 66 o p a ye roun d with ello w d r h n or e n b w . t D r am ree n n b u b r . or B d a a g , y , g a d l e o e an k L y ewan S ee R , erh mur n al w a e . m ter of l ar B p , B g Pri e Min is U . ’ Man s armen l w h llow - l ur marri e ro 1 t b ac it red e . B i c e d net. a b e 59 . g , k, , y 1 66f o o A g , and reen n ds at g l l d e r i nd r en b a th n . a n mo t curi us d ed on one d a e e e ds Ka r e a . s g , B g o y y s e g 1 1 to 1 are ood x ml of rh mur on h er rn amented with crescents of 5 59 g e a p es Be a p th e ot . O ’ weaving in Saris or women s scarfs ; b orders altern ate red an d green set off in gold th read most elab rate with fi n b th r er lwar ur wea i of mr i ered d in . o ; g e v g o e b o d b o g U . Hind and E n lish sub ects Th e E n lish 6 Gurati b an dh an a or tie-and-d e oo g j . g 1 6g j y ur sub ects are b oth na al milita Th e wo in s ts and d of f ur c lo s. j v and ry . rk, po b or ers o o urin is er i w c lo r h ll ro ar l ti . l ar. o g v y c , and g enera y too p P t y ed U 26 Co onia and I ndian E i l l xh bition .

E GA a i l utta . . rin sil h nd e rc h ef. a c B N L 1 82. P ted k k C cuta n il h an d erchie f. al t . 1 83 . Pri ted s k k C 1 6 . ussur sil d 7 T k ress, emb roidered with c utta . ri l h an erc hie f. al c to u 1 84. P nted si k dk C t n . H li alcut o g , C t a. ri il n d erchi f red on ran e 1 85. P nted s k h a k e , o g 1 68 . Cha rkhona cloth with wh ite and b lack r un u a d . alc tt . 8 nurse in t e o C h e d si n . Char means f n d g ( our, a n il h nd rch ief red an d o 1 86. Pri ted s k a ke , h na a n les. h a al ur n l , ) e a . g B g p , B g u lac on ran round alc tta. k o g e g . C - a n d H WE E N E 1 8 . rinted sil h and erchief, red NORT ST RN PROVI C S . 7 P k k ' u lac on b n C lc tta. ’ k ufl g roud. a 1 6 . La n i Man s n 9 g . garme t with g reen an d n h and erchief red a n d 1 88 . ri ted silk , ell w z i z a lin P k es an d red stri es. Az am h y o g g p gar , b lac on r n alcutta. ang e r ud. rth - e r k o g o C No W ste n Provinces. ri i h d erchief red a n d 1 89 . P nted s lk an k ,

b l e ro a l utta. E GA ack on y llowg und. C c B N L . rin d sil h and erch ief red a n d 1 9 0. P te k k , 1 0. ussur sil dress skir n 7 T k , t a d b odies , b l on n r und alcutta. ac k ora g e g o . C emb r idered with us il sur s k. Hu li Cal o T g , e l h and e rc hief red an d 1 9 1 . Prin t d si k k , o utta . u b lac on llow ro und alc tta. k ye g . C n b lu 1 2. rin ted sil hand erchief red a d e H-WE E 9 P k k , NORT ST RN PROVINCE S . utt on ell w r und alc a. y o g o . C 1 1 . ellow sil n 7 a d cotton cl th . Az am ief red Y k . rinted sil h an dk erch o 1 9 3 P k , arh rth - s g , e tern r in ces. r cu . No W P ov g ound. Cal tta h d e rch ief red an d 1 94. Prin ted silk an k , E GA . B N L ut a l r n d alc t . b ack on o a ge g roun . C Red si c d h i 1 2. l l th . Ka ra n al rin ed sil h an erc ef red an d 7 k o g , B e g . 1 9 5. P t k k ,

. ran u 1 e silk c l th with re t b rd b lac on ran e r und . alc tta. 73 O g o , p t y o er. k o g g o C uh t at alcutta r m rin il an dk erch ief red a d ob ab l ade t ridi . ted s h n Bo g C , p y a Gi . 1 9 6 P k ,

1 . Satin mashru in w i n u r n d alcutta h te llow b l b lac o b tf u . 74 , , ye , ack k g o . C and red b an k u l h win h imro v ds. an ra en a . 1 Case of ex ib its sh t e e d B , B g 97 . o g p

1 . rin ted silk h an d erc h ie f b l reelin of ussu sil and its a liances. B 75 P k , ack an d g T r k pp y ’ r d n ran d n s e roun . u h n l o t in o e l r. A h e is t a . e rra a o g g Bo g t Ca cutta. M T . F P ppe, , B g . C g ’ m d i rc u man n . h icl s e ed ur 1 6. s ar e t an ura en of ussur coc ns wit e e ss 7 Wo g B k , B g al. T oo p , p T co ns edi of ussur c c ons softened a n d coo , p cles T o o H-WE E N NORT ST R PROVINCE S . re ared for car in ussur coc n s re a red p p d g , T oo p p ’ fo r reelin Tussur raw sil ussur sil waste . un , , 1 1 a 1 8 is. M en s armn t g k T k , 77 ’ , 7 L g g e s. - wo en us il fab rics ussur sil lace ma d e Az am ar rth estern r ince v T sur s k , T k g No W P ov s. at a s b nd fichus e mb roider M dras, wai t a s, . y , - B E GA . arn for s nd st ck in n ittin sin le ts N L y s ewing a o g k g , g , s c k s &c n d n A en ts— n ue irk o , . Lo o g To g B 1 . lue rin ted sil hand er 79 B p k k ch ief. Cal b ec 34 uth am t n uildin s Chan cer utt k, So p o B g , y c a.

ane nd n W . C . 1 P rin ted i L , Lo o , 80. pr est cloth worn b the Vaish n imr emen 1 8 . ase con tainin rece t ts n avites red on r 9 C g p ov , o ange groun d with t e footprin ts n u ur il b ari us firms in n dia i ree lin ss s . of ishn u th e rote c t r and t e - g T k y v o I V , P o , h lotus sh aped . ams le liorn A ra alcutta . a y M r. J e C , k . s mb ol of th e th r ne of h is wife a s mi th e B g C y o L k h , h ll E n l il b . Mars a s . e a G ddess of ealth e . By C W . , q , B g S k o W . I n th s ne w panels is C man B erhamur en al. iven th e f llowin ra er hichi o p y, p , B g g o g p y , w s a repetition of th e names of ishn uin h is se en th a nd V v MADRAS . e i hth in carnations Ramand Krishna g . h l l m n M a c. e l i i ls By t My itta S k M Co pa y, Hare RamHare Ram Ram Ram Hare dra s wor in b a n ew r cess in en ted b ” , k g y p o v y Hare. E rn D nn an E uene oracl M essrs. est er d C “ o g . Hare K rishna Hare K rishna K rishna K A . rishna Hare Hare . PUNJ B l la re Krish n a and Ram are the n ames of , Tub han M alli Hashmiri. E xh ib ite d (1 . By k Vish nu a nd th e are re eate d h undreds of , m . . o n an r y p ldstrea . Gr w d ee led b y W . Co , B C S times in the c urse of the da th e r sar b e in c t o y, o y g in th e Gurdaspur Distri . use d for countin th e n umber in un red s g h d s. A

E NGA . a rule 1 08 b eads are strung tog eth er to allow a B L r H . uh i sufficien t mar in for mi lc u t o Messrs G . Ga t e 8: Co. az arib a h g sca lation h r ug h e. By , g , o ersi h t. I t is made of th e rudrdksha en al. v g , B g

uis a en Cc . erham ur E lwodendron se ds r M essrs. e o of th e w od of tulsi th e . o , f By Lo P y , B p ,

sacred Oc mum. l y Ben ga . — — A riest rahman wears t lo Cha rka n a b a ta . Co tton and sil . p B his c th after 1 99 . f k b ath in durin th e tim h wa en al g g e e pertorms h is c ere FromFat , B g mn ial worsh i to h is ds and s ussur marria e sari d ed . at wa o p go ays h is sandhia 200. T g , y F , or sacred ra er m . ro alcutta e n al. p y F C . B g ’ ma ut m w 1 8 o n s rm a ha rkana b a. r at a 1 . a ent W . Ladhi C W g , ove n in patte rn. 201 f F o F , “ c n ura en al. k , B g Bengal. i ur 2 I ndian S lk Cult e. 7

G n i of r h il h amu' n al w ece a s . r Chark na buta rom atwa e . 21 8. e r a f . F F , B g o p Co k B p

Doaria ba ta Fro m atwa en al . en al. 203 . f . F , B g B g “ rah sil n m r ot i -off I atra ta . r mFa en al. 21 . i u o n b led p baf F o twa, B g 9 Co k, g , o

or cleaned . “ E A Th e w rd c rah mean s raw and th e se N P L . o o , sil s are all wo en in th e rawor uncleaned state are ie d t wo n k v , 205. R p ce of un yed silk clo h w as the natual old n c s r g e olour of this piece h ows. fromth e silk of th e cocoons of th e Atlas silk The cream wh ite c lour of th e c leaned ieces w rm Attacus At h y o p o , las in th e Ne pal Terai b y t e is due to th e silk b ein b iled in water to wh ich M ec hi eo le Th r un g o , p p . e wa p and weft are sp sa i ma ti h as b een added wh ich dissol es th e arns of lon sta iall n tur d j , v g ple . Spec y ma ufac e natural umfromt b g h e fi re . o r this Exhibiti n and se nt b Mr h e l s. o y . P p lain rah sil rdinar ualit . 220. P Co k, o y q y Owing to th e Oppre ssion th e original manu 1 . rah sil of ood ualit mb ro der 22 C q , e i ed facturera of this cloth ha e h ad to un d r a t o k g y v e go, in chicken r a Hu u m w t li alc tta. ro t h e h and of th e Ne al se u r h h o k g , C F p e A th o ity, t ey ave m ur n erh a e al. B p , B g b een driven fromtha t part of th e coun try b or . h ite sil Dhoti Mur h dab d en al. 222 . s i a d e rin on th e MOCII I and e no t n W k , B g g , ar w se tling o . Pi f r h u 22 ece o o a cl th . M rsh idab ad l a nd acro t T 3 C o , ss h e eesta .

en al. l th made from B g z osa . C o th e silk of th e Atlas il ha d e h f mur n a l . n rc ie . erh a e 22 k , g il wo mli 4 S k B p B s r e No . 205 D d . ed re . Ne a e rai k , k y p l T . h a r l 22 . il nd e ch ie f. e rh amur e n a 20 loth of th e sil of th e A tlas sil rm 5 S k k B p , B g C k kwo , i u c d . h i b a 226 T ck T ssur silk loth . Mursh da , li e 08 . 205 nd 2 5 w n k a 0 a, ove in pattern in red n Be g al. a nd ell w. Na ti e wea in and d es e al y o v v g y . N p ussur il t s Dho . irid 228 . T k i G i. T era i. and u ur l ura 22 2 0. ss si fa b rics. an E A 9 3 T k B k , B NG L. e a B ng l . 206. l th w en in s uares and emb roidered u ur l ss i f r . irid C o ov q 23 1 . T s k ab ic G i. in o ral desi n with th e sil of th e Mu a sil Y ell w ch uddur Gi idi fl g k g k 232. o . r . w rmAntherwa Assama Dacca n . e al. D u l , u r i fab ic . ed ss r ridi. o , B g 233 . y T s k Gi 20 . Duata or turb an emb r ide red at Dacca us ur il dre m with 7 p , o , 234. T s s k ss e b roidered n B e al. i u g s H li a lcut . ussur l . ta T k g , C A AM SS . A AM SS . 208. Scarf of M ua sil with n ic d g k, e b or er in 2 . il fab ric with dee b rder w en in red wh ite ld 35 S k p o ov o c lo ur and o ld th r ad m. , , g o g e . As s a s u l r stri e r e cen tre. b un e A s m p , p p S g g , sa .

il f b c . in urin r d 2 6. S a ri nterest col e B E GA 3 k I g o g , N L . and da b lue ith ele h r rk , w p ant wove n in b o der. 20 . M ua silk An therwa Assama and 9 g r n u in . un e si lar wea Sib e Assam. ( ) V y g v g g g , c tt n fab ric B t . a a. rom - Dacca, en al. ilk fab ric re d cen tre and l o o f F B g 2 7 . S , g o d coloured t 21 0. Du a a or turb an emb r idered at b o r rim un e r3 iti e . ib p , o e , p v S g g , A ssam. acca en a D , B g l.

2 1 1 . Mua sil A M E ANE g k ( ntheraea Assama) em ISC LL OUS .

b roider . Dacca e y , n al. 8 ee ussur emb roider r ed b a B g 23 . L k T y, wo k y un Hind wid w in th e esle an rainin A yo g oo o W y T g AM . SS n u o n a t h M stit ti e ta adras. en b J . I , Roy p , L t y M ua - 21 2. l Ed E ur l m sil Anth eraea ssa i c x e s . B s e . g k ( A ma) g auz e W o g , q ,

scarf. Assa m as u r m. Han dl such h as b een sed fo 239 . oo , E centuries at enares in wh ich is woven th e B NGAL. B , b e x i i i sacred ri b n h b ted b elow t. ent b 21 M u i o L y 3. g a s l k (Antheraea Assama) em M r ardl h i small h andl m used b . e. s o is b ro ide r rer11 red and l co W T o y y, g , d l ur. Dac ca go o , r b ab l not mre th an th ree wea ers wh o sit B e ng al p o y o v , in n rc nes in the stree ts of enar n ear h MAN F B es t e I UR. te mples weaving th e sacred ribb on exh ib ited 21 il 4. dress with stri es an d interestin l w h is in e ious a nd er c i u l t S k p g b e o . T g n v y ur o s i tle b rder in red b lac old colour a nd wh ite . o , k, g le o meviden tly foreshadowed the application of s n c ur m i h card i th e Ja q a d loo . n t is case 1 m ’ d 2 . an s res in 5 s, terestin b order rin th e cards are little s uares of h rn eac h h a n Wo g , p q o , vi g

c i all old c lo ur. Mani ur p y g o p . four perfo rations th ro ug h wh ich four of th e 21 6. Sil an d c tt n dress er nicel k o o , v y y warp th reads pass an d are g uided at will to desi ned b rder rinci all g , reen . Mani ur. h l n fo min e ica a h o p p y g p e p i r g th intr te p ttern . T ere N os. 21 4 21 5 n , a d 21 6 are th ree ty ical are in all f rt -six h rns indic tio 1 84 p o y o , a g warp desi ns o t f h is district. h e h a e b e en lent g T y v threads.

b D . r att C I . E y W , . . ol urs of war reen white an d crim n C o p g , so . l ur of weft crims n which is n ck ed u B Co o o , k o p E GA . N L a ma n - h a ed an d-b am b y s ll k ife s p h e .

21 . Corah sil for t h and e hi n h m ft. i 7 k rc efs and Saris e of l 4 d n . k , L g oo cleaned and of ex ll n ei h t ce e t u it H 9 in . q al y. M ade at g e r m B ha ur B en l. p , g a Breadth 25in. 28 Co onia and I i it n l l nd an E xhib io .

I t is made of wo d an d con sists n l of a ar a: of An therwa mlitta or T us sur o , o y 245. L v y , b ase of a car ed iece of te a wo d h a in an sil worms c llected b m se lf fr m h e T e r v p k o , v g k , o y y o ’ u ri ht e at eac h en d r un dwhic h th e war mrna lia tome tosa or Sa tree in th e ard e n o f p g p g o p n , j , g is wound t on d an d th o n l itu t d in th e fo re s t a e en e w e ta e th e Rev A . am b el s a e v p . C p , ac u att h ed a t th e othe r. un les of M an b h um at Pokhuria Gob in d r j g , , p , Th e n l h arn ess is a w den c omb six n l s n e district ussur coc o o n s a . I h i u l o y oo , Be g n t j g T in ches in len th h a in 7 2 tee th wh ich h lds re r n ll t b th e antal and K o h l g , v g , o a b ed a d co ec ed y S th e war th reads sumcientl a a rt for th e trib es h ese cater illars wh en li in we re p y p . T p , v g , h orn utiful s which ar l in . ua b o r f th e b ea e s re to e w ed. ab ou ve in he l n and were o " q k t fi c s o g , 2 acred Rib b n or a e wo en a enares f h e lea es of th e Sa t re e 40. S o T p v t B pale gre en colour o t v j , in th e little lo mexh ib ited ab o e it I t c on an un l er difficult to fi n d o v . d it was con se r e t y v y tain s in rnamen tal b rd rs tw n t -nin e names h e e t P . em. l. , o o , y ( IV ) of ish n uin n scrit h r wh n r nd r u r cini wh ich mak e Sa . e a e e e e ed Lar of Attac s i V T y , 246. vm , into E n li h hara t rs f ll h e f ed on th e lea es s c c e as ows am. e g , o : the E ri silk of Ass T y v - h ri Krishna an amh a of h e Ricinus communis or castor oil lant . 1 S y t , p h ri Go i an vallab ha ana mh a ar ae an d h r salides of Crica la tri S p j y 247 . L v C y Sh ri Krish na sh aro l n amah a enestrata h e feed and ma e their c co o n s f . T y k o 2 S hri Ach ar a i n amh a r-b un ch e and are fo un d y i s in colon ies or cluste s, Prab h ush ri Gosaiji in some pa rts of Ch utia Nagpur in consid e r h ri Vith al n ath i ab l u n t h an in fromth e b ranc hes o f S j e q a ti y, g

3 Sh ri Girdh arji th e t rees in clusters or bun ch es like g rapes. h ri Govin d i il and c c ns of th e mulb err -fed S j 248. S k o oo y h ri B alk rish na r h ese c c ns are re S j silkwormfromCyprus. T o oo l l Sh ri Gok unathji ma rk ab ly larg e and th e si k good. Sh ri Ra hunath i 2 ewin sil s made from en al sil g j 49 . S g k B g k i Y unath i es an ufac ture d Sh r ad j and dyed with Indian dy . M

h ha n h m lk M r Gib s n Jr. 5 S ri G n as a i b . . y p fromBen g al raw s y S o , ,

Sh ri Damodar i 0. ee as is als No . 25 j L k, o h ri Go vardh an anath il d-off ewin il s sh win th e S p 250. Bo e S g S k , o g 6 Sh ri Navan ita-priyaji exce llen t quality wh ich th e improved ree lin g h ri M adan M oh an i S j of B e ng al silk will make . Sh ri Vith alesh vara a l h ite il Hand erch iefmade entirel y j 251 . W S k k y his 7 Sh ri Dvarkanathji with Bengal silk o f th e impro ved reeling . T

Sh ri Gokulnath i 25 were manufactured b Mr . j an d Nos . 252 to 7 y ri G rudh i Sh a va a h on M acclesfield. . ic ols j j J O . N , 8 hri Go ul ch an drama l il Han d erch ie f made with well S k j 252. S k k h ri Math uranath i l il weft and hina sil war S j eeled Ben ga s k , C k p, Shri Na ta var i g ed j y . 9 Sh ri B alkrishn a r rammade of en al sil of th e im j 253 . T B g k

hri Gok ulodlrav r r in No win th e mar et. S p p ove d eel g . k Shri B alade v i r anz in e made of en al sil of th e j 254. O g B g k

1 0 Sh ri Nath i ow in th e mar et. j impro ved reeling . N k h ri amun a l L aturi with b iled E ria coc ns sh ow S J j 255. , o oo ,

- t il in Assam. All th ene n ames ofVish nuare writ en in San in g t h e me th od of spin n ing E ria s k h mh n u ti rmin - h read fromth e scrit some of t e a i G ra te ati ns. a uri with E ria s un t , v g j o 256. T k , p u f l Shri mean s th e b ea ti u. Laturi. A nother ta e b elow is inten ded for Sh i a siz e an d a uri such as p v 2 . L aturi lar e , T , 57 , g k - m w rsh i ers and c on tain s nl a re etition of ria sil th re ad in A rsa . o pp , o y p are used in spinn ing E k ” i OmNamha Shivd a I b ow to Sh i a . L aturi as used at an ch i for s in n n y , v 258 . , R p g h ese ta es are worn at worsh i in th e Hin T p p Tussur silk cord . b M r a th h e a e n a h ome . ent . rdl d wi t doo temle s a d t e . en al Raw il reele p , L y W 259 . B g S k T v

2 1 Sil formed b th e s ider Ne hilen s e r fine ualit . 4 . k y p p gy le tte Con sono in I ndia . V y q y ’ o un at th a w ilk to th e ma la b arensis alc . f d e e of mmade of similur ra s , W k , L k 260. Tra ama Distri orth - es srs Ge r e h imTal in K un ct N tern r in No h ro wn b M es . B , , W p eced g . T y o g F h ni ut ie E . o th o a ro i e b . . D s f e t n c s D o . ee . P v , y J , q , B avenport C , L k cal Gardens aharan ur sh win th e wa r an z in e made of similar raw sil to , S p , o g y 261 . O g k in wh ich it was c lle c ted on stic s. o k No. 259 . - - A wh ite T me de r silk th reced e iers. 2 2. h e sa s i as e in are oloo il 23 d n 4 p p g 262. B p S k, b h o b ut r mo ed from th e stic s. For in o h er to t he C to No . e l su e ri r eit , v k ( un ivoltine si k, p rm n on th is sil see m re rt of Re nf rtunatel it is fo ati atr sil s. o k, y po poloo or th e Ni y k U o y ” h on il ib re ub lish ed b h searc es t e f n al. S k F , p y dying out o Be g n t of n dia ul 9 Governme I , J y ,

DE A . Larvae in alcohol of CC N 243 . , , made of b amb with ca s . mak n oo M a n mn hak , B or u atus d s G e rn e . C . f t , W o ov t of 263 , oo p f Tussur c coo ns used in b tain . Fi . ons o ndi Pl. f orti I a . ( III , g o p o , o

L arvw of B omb x mori of l li h t for sm in . Decc an . 244. y arg er siz e in g a g ok g “ with dicles sh win Jo . . ern n o i ussur c c ons e 21 3 Gov me t f In d a. 264. T o o p o g

lonia and I ndian Exh i 30 Co l ib tion .

oci t f m an ol iece rimmin s fo ee E mb r ider e r d 0 r. r a dress w r L k o y S y, o p 3 7 T g o ked in deepe r f un in lo n ce an d lent to th is soc iet b sh ades. o d F re , y y a d n nd 8 rimmin f r r fe ss r Ch urch of er b e utiful esi a 0 . s o a dress wor d i o P o o , v y g 3 7 T g ke n g ld c lour llows and ol h a n of c o lour e d thread. rmo y . o , y g mt d wh ich the c lours Of the t A ul it Han in Th e e h s b ci . in reen o y o 3 7 P p g g g , b lue an d orig in al were dyed h ave b ee n t e-discovered b y g oli i

Mr ardl nd a lied to th e ussur sil t e 08. Seal cl th made in or r . W e a pp T k 3 o Y ksh i e fro m o ussur sil waste with i pr duction . T k insert ons of white h airs d mn t ussur sil frin e in different sh ades of adde a st i . Go ern ment f 293. T k g o g v o India. l ussur sil cl h r b ue and wh ite . t ue wo en und T k , g ed . o fi v , y o urs G ernment Of n Tua ur sil frin e in ari us c lo dia. 29 4. k g v o ov I

To h en ille do made of ussur srlk . 1 0. Seal cl th made r 29 4a . y c g T 3 o in Yo ksh ire from c f ur ussur sil t h e n ille mn e made O uss was e . G ern men t Of nd Toy o k y T T k ov I ia .

us u co n 1 . ussur sil tri b r il an h din s r co . 1 s d f ic . s k d ol g T o 3 T k, pe a Go vernmen t

u ur sil ch en ille w r for u h olster . Of ndia. 29 5. T ss k o k p y I

t . i ur l u ur attern e d clo h artl d e d. 1 2 ed si fab ric sh o wi 29 T ss p , p y y 3 F g k , t th M ug a u ilk a tterned cl th w en in An therzra Assama sil Of Assam i Tuss r s p o ov ( ) k . F rst M ug a o sil of E n lish man uf ur ns ac t e . o en in e Ly . k g W v Le k . n b M l ur u e t r. ard e . uss sil fich s und ed. 29 7 to 304. T k . y L y W und 1 and 1 ussur 0 . ussur sil frin e ed . sil stri ed fab ric 3 5 T k g , y 3 3 3 T k p s. mn ussur sil cloth artl rin ted and G ern e t of ndia. 306. T k , p y p ov partly painted b y han d. Smn Emmommn s s, ar e .

to m r 3 1 5 320. E b oidered petticoats made an d X X. ' Pl. E EK E MB ROIDERY . ( XI ) L X w rn in A mritsar un ab and th e o , P j , n e ghb ourin g w nt - wo i ce Of n ati e l of t e t e s il a e . G nm 0 . Case s o er e nt of ndi 3 7 y p v v g v I a. ur sil e mb roidered u o n with E mb wo ven Tuss k p 321 . roidered phulca ri petticoat mad e o d sil manufactured in E n and w rn n r Tussur emb r i ery k g o i Amitsar and th e n eig h b ourin g us ur c c on s an d d ed b l es G land fr m ndian s il a . o ernmen t Of n i o I T o o , y y v g v I d a . l wi n dian e etab le d es in er o mb Mr Ward e th 22 t 2 . E r id . I v g y p 3 3 5 o ered petticoats made an d urs r ed and lent b th e ee worn in Amrit r man ent col . sa an d th e n e i hb ourin illa o Wo k y L k g g v ges. b Mr E b r ciet ee direc ted s. G ernment of n ia mroide y So y, L k, y ov I d . l ws 307 a to 307 t as f l o 26. er fine sca rl n Wardl e. o 3 V y et a d yellowph ulcari o n A lar e desi n c nsistin ch iefl of b lac round with verv 30 a . g g o g y k g dee b rder made and 7 p o , b irds me ran ates lotus fl wers and race w rn in Amritsar and th e n ei h b o urin villa es , po g , o g o g g g . full treated stems ada ted fr mon e of th e Le n t b Sir Geo r e irdwood y , p o y g B , C . S . I L L . D.

f b rders in th e A anta ca es 2 and 8. E mb b eautiful resco o j v , 3 7 32 roidered phulcan pe tticoat ’ r I n dh adri h ills iz ams D mini n s ma de an d worn in Amrit r Ajanta o y , N o o , sa an d th e neig h b our o b urdo n Clar e E s C . I . E . his attern in illa es. G ver men t . of n y C P k , q T p g v g I dia. “ ” h A an ta a ttern . It is h ere tO i t e 2 a . is k nown as j p , 3 9 29 f ger in terest n g and an c ien t or in reds reen s an d re s of lowish h dfiPersian % ure wgav n w ked , g g y g i g . 329 E xh ib ited ue Of old thre Th e b S uth K n sin t n e with a free s ad . e t n Museum ndia o , g y g I n sec tion . o — o , colouring Of this and th e wh ole of th ese speci Th ese Indo Persian fab rics are woven in th e f win ma n s Wardle . ll n er mens is b y Mr . o o g m n b A Damascus desi n ada ted b 0. A ai war f rms th e b lac satin 3r . g p y p o k g roun d a nd ured b and rises to allow P utgon l r e E s . c l th e weft to c m C a k , q , o o y o e to the to m e th e ardle. a atte rn . Mrs. W k p

e A l ral b rder of E n lish desi n. A b inder war w r s siml to fas 3o7 . F o o g g p o k p y ten th e d A loral b rder weft ure on th e face and th e c l u 307 . F o fig , o o red we ft r ndi n e i n on th e b ac Of th 3 A l ral b rde a d s . e cloth . h is is almo 307 . F o o , I g k T st the ldest meth od of ure wea in and no 3 7 ’ ’ O fig v g , t con rd with effecti e h errin fi ned to an articular c un r l ra l b er t . It occur 3875. A F o o , v g y o y s in Ja anese an d hin w r n ian desi n . ese an d b o ne wor d g p , in man y o f k, I p C o k i n th e alermitan h l ral b rder ndian des . and ucca fab rics artic ularl 3o7 . A F o o , I g P L , p y th e ld b r cades and go o , is also most used at th e resent da p y . h f b T ese a rics resemb le th ose wh ich the i n of owers and inter rench call amas and whic l:An Indian des g fl F L p , h in E ngland are wro n m with old thread. l ter ed B r catell lac ing stems ih pale sh ade s g g y o e. n in reds and h e are not b r cad An Old B ur undian desig es, b ut are made b th e 307m. g T y o y r cess c alled lanc th e c l a e, ours not b ein ut g ree s. p o o g p A ushi n w r ed in th e same desi n in b y inde e nden t sh uttles b ut sh t strai h t n . C o o k g p , o g fr mside to side f ll win b lues. as 307 min greens and o , o o g each oth er more or ur less in b ars 0 atin B a w r ed in ale c l s. . 307 . S g o k p o o u Th e sh rt a lush B a w r ed in da r c l rs. nd exact re eat of th e attern 307p . P g o k k o o o p p rimmin s for a dress wor ed in ale sh ows th at th e fab rics h a e b een made in a 3079 . T g k p v md c le ld th read . i ati n of th e dra l sh ades and untarnish ab go o fi o w oom. I ndian Si ls u 3 1 l C lture.

il r h ea and ex ensi e c ntain l a m l i of i m all s ve n s al uan t t s l . Gala T h ey are k, y vy p v o o y q y k

r en . men t of ndi m e al Go ern a. a e . to k po , B g v I “ ” loth e fore b ein cut was rdinar ns h mulb e P rob ab ly th e c b g 361 . O y cocoo of t e rry 1 n wide fed s m w rm. rh l G ern i il ur n . n to 2 . . e a B e a 1 8 i . k o B p , g ov u r emb roidered with ran e sil men of di lca i t n a. P h , o g k I un d ornamented with cit ou -f l r . i n ed si o n b lack cotton g o , 362 Pr z e cocoo s of th e mulb erry k - l in lass 5 inches a a rt. w rm u e a v me n of ndia o m r B n l. Go rn t iec es f . B erh a e l a r p ook g g , p o p , g I . - n ia. n r il w G o ve rnmen t Of I d 36 Cocoo s of th e mulb e ry fed s k orm. mle of a ical hulcari A d exa t Mal ah en al G ernmen t of ndia. 33 1 . g oo p yp p , , B g . ov I st b eautiful b rder in excellen t co lour co ns of th e mulb err -fed sil w rm with mo o 364. Co o y k o h ite flo wers an d old col ured n n ia o f red and w an ur e al Go ernmen t of d . in g g o R gp , B g . v I T h et mol Of hulcari - worm . e n s of th e mulb e rr fed sil l e a v es and stems y og y p 365. Cocoo y k

i mb roider or w r . d w an d car e n men t f n ia . i h ul a er ra District e al. Go ern o s p , flo , , y o k Bog , B g v I - l i o rm. ardle. oco ns of th e mub err fed s l w L e n t b y Mr. W C o y k m r r d h ulcaries . E b ide e r Di to ierced b th e exit of th e moth . o a s 2, 332a 350 o p P y B g Amritsar and th e nei hb ur o n n m ndia . m£e and wor i trict en al. G ern ent of g o , B g v I me n of ndia - ern t . il orm. . G on s of th e ulb err fed s w in g v illages ov I 367 . Coco m y k f ell w sil with wh ite s ts xi h m h ramur iece o ierced b th e e t of t e t . e 35 1 . P y o k po , P y o S p ,

d d e or andan a r cess. h tie an G ernmen t of ndia . e ffec ted b y t e y B p o Bengal. ov I n h mulb err -f sil w rm 68. c s of t e ed ' 3 Co oo y k o , RI L AND Raw Pnonnc rs OLLECTION . IN DU ST A C - . u n al i e . sun dri SeM r e n . ed . U nove ed . p , B g Governmen t Of In dia. Governmen t of India. o ns of th e Desi or h ta oloo i o n f h mulb err -fed sil . c h te c c s o t e 52 C oo C o p 369 . W oo y k m ” en al B omb ortuna tus. ve Mur h idabad i13w rmof ro o uMo h k oah . s s , w w rm B o l ra , o B g No o , p

r ld weath er b un d . ven ed i. e . arti m t of n dia o c ern en . b e r o O , , Ben gal . Gov I - r ed urdah a shah i en al. ulberr f sil fi c iall d i . hite c co ns of the m ed y S , R j , B g 370. W o o y k “ ” ernmen t of ndia . See late II . Fi . o o lu ach i h Mursh ida b ad m B r o a . G ov I ( P , g wor , p k ko , f the De si or h ota oloo sil . co n s O l G ern men t of ndia . 353 Co o C p k Ben ga . ov I m - w rmOf en al B omb a: ortuna tus. ve h ite c c n s of the mulb err fed sil o B g , y f No 37 1 . W o oo y k ” v . r or c ld weath er b un d. Uno ened i s . o ur l ie d b th e exit b e w m B oro l at. rce o , , or , p P y

urdah a shahi en al. G ern un dried. o h u h idab ad en al. G ern s , R , g of th e mt . M rs S j B ov , B g ov

men t of ndia. f n i I ment o I d a. oc ns Of th e Desi or h ta ole silk mulb e -fed il . Re d c c n s of th e rr s 354 C oo C o p o 372. o oo y k ” u a tus N em B mb a: ort n . w rmof en al o worm Ch h oto olur lat . ierce d b th e o B g , y f ov , p P y b und ie rced b th e exit er or cold weath er . th Murshidabad en al. b P y exit of th e mo . , B g

ur h a sh ahi en al. o f th e mth . da d o S , R j , B g Govern men t of In ia . c - G ernmen t of ndia. d coco ns of th e mulb err fed silk ov I 3. Re y “ c ns Of th e Madrassee or Nistri t k urch i . w rm Chh o o o luM ora h ah . M 55 Co oo o , p o

o3 il worm Of en al B omb a: cra si. n i 00 s e Go ernment of d a . n al. k B g , y dab ad, B g v I - gain an d h ot weath er b un d. U novened i. s . h mulb err fed sil , , Red c c ns of t e y 374. o oo y k " ur ah a sh ahi en al. G ern un dried. ur h i s d w m hhoto olu ac h i a h . M s S , R j , B g ov or . C p k ko f dia ment o n . n mn o n ndia. b ed en al. G er e t I de , B g ov I coon s of th e Madrassee or Nistri oloo - si m 6. c ns of th e mulb err fed l w r . 5 Co p 375. Co oo y k o

l w rm of en al b omb x era si. ain r h um si i of th e mth . i b o B g , y R y Pierced b y th e ex t o B , n d or arti c iall w th er b und. e e and h ot ea Go ernmen t of ndia . Ov fi y Beng al. v I

urdah a sh ahi en al. G ern - e dried . , g oco n s of th e mulb err f d sil w rm. S , R j B ov 376. C o y k o

ment of n dia . Go ern men t of ndia . m en al. I Birb h u , B g v I oc n s of the Desi or h ta oloo sil ulb rr -fed silk . h m e C oo C o p k . c ns Koo of t e 357 m 377 Co oo ( ) y w rmOf en al B omb x ortuna tus. e medal at th e o B g , y f Nov wormwhich ob tained a b ronz e i rced b th e exit w th e r b und. e b er or c ld ea Dina ur en al. n 1 885. o P y Do omran E xh ibitio p , B g o f th e mth an d fi -b lown b a di te ro us ara o y y p p Govern men t of India. ment - urdah a shah i en al. G vern i . m s te , oc n s of th e mulb err fed silk w r . S , R j B g o 378 . C oo y o ndia f . o mnt of ndia. en al. G ern e I Gaya, B g ov I c n s of the Madrassee or Nistri oloo 58 . Co oo p f h mulb err -fe d sil worm . oco ns o t e , ' 379 C o y k l l£w rm of en al B omb x era si. ain s o B g , y R y u der sub di isi n H wrah B en reared in th e S d v o , o , ficiall n en ed i. s arti and h ot weath er b ud. Ov , . y al G ernmen t of ndia. g . ov I Multi ltine ab ut ei h t cr s a ear. dried. vo , o g op y - il Cocoons of the mulb erry fed s kworm. a sh ah i en al . Surdah , R j , B g nm of ndia. n al. G er ent D h an tala, Be g ov I H b rid b etween th e c co ns ofth e Desi 3 9 . y o o - ns of th e mulb e rr fed sil w rm. f en al B omb x 81 . Cocoo y k o or 8hota poloo silkwormO B g , y 3 medicine at awn re as an emb er or c ld weath er b an d Presc rib ed in C po fortuna tus. Nov o , mn t A h disiac or n er in e t nic. G ern e of and th e cocoons Of th e Madrassee or M ist ri p ro v o ov

ndia. e n al B omb x era si. 100 silkworm of B , y I - m n of th e mulb err fed sil w r . h r b ung Surdah Ra sh ah i 8m. Cocoo s y k o £1iny and h ot weat e , j , 3 rescrib ed in medicin e at awn re as an G ernment of ndia. P C po Bengal. ov I nic fr m mb a sen t c - m A h r disiac or ner ine t y, ns of th e mulb err fed sil w r . p o v o , o Bo 360. Co oo y k o

. z anne . ath r h e b Mr. E O Starved or else spun in too cold we e . T y y C 3 2 o onia and I ndian E xhi ition C l l b .

h i an d llow c c n of mu T “ 82. te e s th e l 6. ussur sil coc ns L aria 3 W y o oo 39 k oo , . -f d sil w rm reared fr m a an b hum en b e rr e . ese e s. al. G o ern men o n di y k o o J p g g , B g v t f I a . o un a b G o rn men t o f n i “ h re . e d a . u u i a . ss r s l coc n B s o ui . L , P j v I 39 7 T k oo , g ' B ufi oc on s of th e B omb a: mori from b h um n a . e al. G ern n i 382 C o y , , B g ov me t of I nd a . ” “ renc h e s reared at th e ister Gran t 8. ierced ussur il s c c ns B u . F g g , L 39 P T k o oo , goy - D h ra Dun . N rth este rn rovin c es. in b h um en o c al. G ernmn n a o W P S g , B g v e t o f I di . of th mul rr - e l w m c “ Coc ns e b e f d si r . . ier ed u i 8 . ssur s lk coc n oo s D aba . 3 3 oo y k o 39 9 P T , r raised in b uar - M arch 1 884 haib asa S i irst c 0 e r . n b h umD t i , y , , is r ct en al. G er n F p F C g , B g ov - fromDeh Du a f i rec ei ed ra n . S h aran ur men t o ndia E g g v p , I . m f “ o inces. Go ern ent o ndia . e rc W. r . i ed s r . 00 usu sil cocoon s N P v v I 4 P T k , L a r ia . h mulb r -f sil wo h a o oons of t e er ed rm. ib asa in b mD 8 . c h u istrict n 3 4 C y k C , S g , Be al. G overn — g ai d M arch A ril 1 884. ed men o ndia co c 0 . se e t f Se nd r p R p , S I .

P . u . n u r . r i ce fr m ss is d in Sah aran s 1 . ur sil c i ra e 0 c c ns. an p , N W ov , 4 T k o oo R h , C h ut ia - o u r March 1 884. Sa haran ur Na ur e cr0 f eb r a n al. Go ernmen t o f ndia p F y , p , g p , B g v I . m f ndia s o ern nt o . . ussu i ro ince . G e N . . 02 r s l c o an W P v v I 4 T oco ns. ta" un le s k S j g , e rr - w M an m f th e mulb fed sil orm. b hu l oc ns o e n al. o mn l l 8 . G ern e t o f I d 3 C oo y k , B g v a. o i — a 8 d a d A r l M 1 84. ee . ier h ir3 cr . ise ced ussur sil n a t " T p R p y S 403 P T k cocoo s. S n a jun f s W . inc o c o l b h r n ur N . r es r m r es Man u m e e ra i ed in Sa a a o h en al. G rn mn t of n i p , P v p g , , B g ov I d a . - 1 . Sa h n ur N . . Pro us i o f M a rch A ril 88 4 ara . sur s l c c irb h m 0 ns. u n . p p , W 4 4 T k o oo B , Be g al - t n ia men o t rumen of d . G ern of di v inces. t n G v I ov I a. - i u o f h e mul b e fe d s l w rm. . s u . oc on s o t rr s r silk c c ns. B ar 86 y 0 dwan e n al . 3 C k o 4 5 T o oo , B g o er ment of Go ern men of n i e Dun . . ro in ces. G n t d a a s N . , W P v v v I

Dn i 6. ierced ussur il c n w ga. 0 s c a 4 P T k o oo s. B rd an , - wo o on s of th mulb err fed sil rm en al. Go vernment o n i c e f d a . 387 . C o y k , B g I

ra . s u il il Mad s . us r s c c B idionalis. o imb at re a o D omb x mer 0 ns. ar lin en a l . y C o J , 4 7 T k o o p g . B g o rn d d G e men of n i . G overn ment of In ia . v t I a - ut" on s of th e mulb err -fed ussur sil o on s . ellow b c co 08 . c c . Gan mDistric t 388 Y o y 4 T k o ja , udda ah Madr o v nmn n meridionalis. as G er e t o i w m B omb x . f i s lk or , y C p , I d a. f h n t se us ur o ad Go ern men t o nd ia . t i h e 0 . s sil c c o ns. o r h Arc o M ras. v I I k 4 9 T k o N t t, Madras f n w e wron l lab elled at Madras and . Go e rnmen t o ndi Cocoo s er g y , v I a. ussur sil ri. 1 . coc n . u th at th e are B ombya: mo 4 0 T s D dh i Madras . y k oo , - sil w rm. G ern mn of n oco n of th e mulb err fed e t dia. 389 . C o s y k o ov I r d on 1 ierc u mth . ea e ed ssur sil h of th e c o n . Pierced b y t e exit o R 4 1 . P T k oc o s Retre a t rk d adras fromseed E state Y erk ad M adras o m th e Retreat E state Y e a M . G ern ent of nd ia , , , , , v I . fromD h ra ussur il mn t e 1 2 s c c ns. ec ed h ou th e G o ern e . M adras r r eiv t r gh v 4 T k o oo . Gove n D ut mn t of nd i E xh ib ited b e e ia . Dun N . . r nces. , W P ov y y I - u u sil o . . S . . ss r c c n d l h t D . 1 s. uda u . n . r M . M r Ge . t ah adr s S g J S o , , F , 4 3 T k oo C p , a . men t of n d G ern ia. er ed Sh evaro s. Y k , y ov I - l l w rm. u ur si n n f mul rr fed si 1 ss coc s. illaur n a c s o the b e . h u b 39 0. Co oo y k o 4 4 T k oo P , P j .

m h eared on th e Go ernmen t of ndia . P ierced b y th e exit of th e ot . R v I re ussur sil M adras from M so . c n ab u . er ed 1 ns. B ee Re treat E state, Y , , y 4 5 T k ocoo s P j k , - rn mn t of n dia ut ur . Gen . . G e e E xhib ited b De . silkworms. y p y S g J ov I

Y e rk ad Sh evaro s. 1 . ussur sil c n n l . L S . 6 c s Ga e a ho t M B . . . . a . S r t, , F , , y 4 T k o oo y , B g c - men o f n w rm. G ern t dia o o on s of th e mulb e rr fed sil o . 39 1 . C y k ov I u u il o o men t of n dia. 1 ss r s c co n s er al in c lour M adras. G ern . e . Kan ara, v I 4 7 T k o (v y p o ) o n of h e mul o al G arden s aro b er men h ite and ellow c oc o s t da om a . G n t 39 2. W y R y , B , B y ov - ierced b th e exit of the of n dia b erry fed silkworm. P y I ’

t o f ndia . ea er s uill u il w f nmen 8 s of ssur s e t. o h urma . Go er 1 . mt . B v I 4 W v q T k m r m Murshidab ad n l n n f B o b x mori. e o m of d Green c c s o a . G ern e t n ia. M . o oo y F o , B g v I

t . u d fee Pl. le e lon . ifteen h n dre North Mata , C y F ( XLII ) h as edic s ur l c r l his art of e l n a . les of us si c ns d a . 1 e are above th e se leve T p C y o 4 9 P T k o oo , p p

h es nd the a e ra e for s innin b b oilin . Manb hum n a n c a e l. rain fall of ab out 9 0 i , v g p g y g , B g ° Th e e s fr m G ern ment o f n dia temperature is ab out 7 5 F. g g o ov I . ned w re in tr edicles o u ur s o ns are ob tai e 2 . f ss il c c ns re ar l wh ich th ese cocoo o 4 0 P T k oo , p p e

u wo ears a o an d for s inn in . Go rn me f n b t t e nt o d . duced into Ceylon a o y g , p g v I ia - E xh ib ited b th e Hon . 21 22 e lt an d n if rest used b th c ome from Ja pan . y 4 4 . B k e y e - utte r f Shan d e l n ourt. w d c s o the K lab a District Kon a n J . L. , C y o C oo o , k m v i b h ite c c ns of B omb a: mori. r Di is on om a reside nc with b ells made 2b . W o oo y F o , B y P y,

b th e Hon . of ussur sil coc e lon . E xhibited n s. ent b . Grimth s N orth M atale, C y y T k oo L y J , u erin t n d E s . e en l u . S t h b a h an d e lon rt c of Art m . J . L. S , C y Co q , p S oo , Bo y - C c n s of th e mulb err fed sil w rm. c n s of th e E ria sil w rm Atta cus 39 3 . o oo y k o Co oo k o , i ul mru b b S r am e rzci ni . Ka As a n f n di ment o a . E xhi ited s m. G o er S o uth Australia. y S p, v I on f m 2 . c s o th e Eria sil wo r Attacus t. Daven por 4 4 Co o k , a in As m u n . M . rici i sa . ur sil c c ns Go ernmen t of ndia . 3 Tuss k o oo , g S g v I

nmen t of n dia. Pl . . 2 c n s of th e r a il worm A t cus er . E i s t a b h um en al . Gov ( ) 4 , , B g I V 5 Co oo k

o Dab a . in ricin i. an ur di ussur sil c c ns en al . G e rn men t of n a . 39 5. T k o o , S g R gp , B g ov I

ndia . C ocoms of l rn men t of 26. th e r i worm At a c us b hu en al. Go e E ia s l m, B g v I 4 k , u 33 I ndian Silk C lture. r re m m e n Ra sil reele d from th e cocoons . a u A m t of w i n i h i r ssa . G rn e . L k p , ov 446 k

- e o Jan I ur th e mulb err f d sil worm f en al . lia . y k B g D mn of R d and wh ite coc ns of th e Eria sil i ur Murshidab ad istrict. G ern e t 427 . e oo k g p , ov A dia G ern n . tta cus ricin i. lhe A am. Sy t, ss ov I l o Raw sil reele d fromth e c co ns of th e n o n t f In dia. 4 k o o . - 4 f i n l McP . mn d l o of e a . G G ocoo ns of th e Eria sil w rm Attacus l 1 rr e s w rm . . 428 . C k o . y k B g ‘ i r l i ri l G rnmen t of oss mb az aar den iers. c m. a i a u B n a . e C i J p g , e g ov , I n Raw sil re eled fr mth e cocoon s d ia . 448 449 . k o - Red c co ns of the Eria sil w rm o f th e mulb err fed sil w rm o f e n al. 42 9 . o o k o , y k o B g b l n n o ndi a me f a . c l mnt ir hum en . Go er A tta ri Dina ur en a . G o ern e t us cini. jp , B g v B , B g v I o f n ia a e ch assumor waste of the sil o f th e I d . T p k u m rr -fe s l o f n i hum c ns of the E ria sil w rmAtta c s d i w rmo e al. rb 430 . Co oo k o , y k B g B ,

n l. en l ma n r ic in i re ar for cardin as s ld for manu e a al Si . , p p ed g , o B g B g k Co p y ' a w o t mulb rr -fed fa c o rin ur w n A Go ern 1 . rse aste sil t h e e m. t g p poses. No go g , ssa v 45 Co k y si wor o n e e en u . G o rn m t i l m f B e al. a ra me n t o f Ind a. k g C p v o f ndi ca ns of t e Mu a sil rmAnthe o a . 43 1 . C h g kwo , I w A l r A to R w il r led fr mth e comma f d . ssama fi u it . Sib sa a ssam. a s ee , rst q a y g , 4 2 4 k o o 51 e f h a s m l f t mub e ed il w . Surda F . rr s rm G o vern en t of ndia. P . I I . i I ( V , g y k o , R j

oc o ons of th e Mu a sil worm Anthe h ahi en al . Go ern ment of ndia. 432 . C g k , , B g v I sea A ond r m arse raw sil reeled fro mthe coc on s r ssama sec ualit . ib sa a Assa . , q y S g , Co k o o f h m lb e -f silk en al o vernment o n a t e u rr ed wmm of . G f I di . y B g w A B adh ana r en al G mn o n ia oco ns of th e Mua il rm nthe ern e t f d . 433 . C o g s k o , , B g , ov I w rna or r mth r wn fr mraw sil r b A m . a a r a Assam th i d ualit . Si sa ar ssa . 8 , q y g , 5 B T o o k o v rn men ndi ree led fr mth e c c o ns of the mulb e rr -fed G e t of I a. o o o y il w rm of e al D l n l c ns of ula tr enestrata . Ex s n . han ta a e a . Crio 34 Co oo if k o B g , B g , ib i . - G e rn mn of ndi b D. e t a. t D G l h ort M . d b e ut ur . n . . y p y S g e J S t, , ov I na o a t o fro mra w sil Pl. . r h r wn Yerk ad Shevaro s. . a r , y ( XIII ) 59 T W p k on o u t a ta n rev ed fr mth c c n o f th e mulb e rr -fed 435. Coc o s f Crio la rifenestr i o e o oo s y l - sil w rm of en a l Dh a t la e n al c n c utia . n a uste r b u h n . c h es or colo ies Ran hi, C k o B g , B g ; Go r m f a ur n al e n ent o ndia . N g p . Be g . v I o l l om ns o th Raw sil reeled fr mth coc ns of th e 60. R awS lk ree ed fr th e c co f e 436. k o e o 4 o o u -f o mulb err -fed il m of n l Dh an tala s w r e a . m l r il o b h n e h d . b e ry ed s kw rm y t e rdi ary mt o y k o B g , n nme t of ndia 1 2 to 1 4 c c ns reeled t eth er siz e e al G er n . o oo og , B g , ov I R w l m h co ns of th e h . a si r eled f d n i urdah a s ahi n l. 61 e r t e c e e rs. a S , R j , B e g Govern k o o o u - m m b err sil worm D h ra Dun W . n t Of ndia. d . e N e I y fe k , . d f o mt o r inces G ern men of nd Ra s r le r h c c ns t . t ia. 437 . w ilk ee e o oo f h e P ov ov I mulb rr -f sil rm th talian a an e 6 hite rawsil ree led fr mthe coco n e y ed kwo i I ppli c s. 4 2. W k o o s o ul -f il n 1 2 to 1 4 coc n s r led t eth er siz e f th e m b err ed s w rm of e al. oo ee og , y k o B g D h Dun ur h n o e ra . . r inces. The seed fr d e n i rs. m e dah a s ah i e al. G ern S , R j , B g v , N W P ov o o lu which the coc ns were reared was recei ed men t f din . oo v o th u Ma me t x h b i Raw sil ree led fromth e c c ns of the r h th e dras Go e rn n . E i ted 438 . k o o o g v m - h b De u r - u u . r M . . lb rr fe sil rmb t e r inar me h t Genl. . h tt D e y d kwo y o d y t od . y p y S g J S o , ,

n ur n men f Yerk ad Sh e varo s. a e al G ern t o ndia. R g p , B g . ov I , y Fine aw sil reeled r mth e co coo 6 ell w raw sil reeled fromth e cocmn s 39 . r k f o ns 4 Y o k o f h ul b - of t e mulb err -f il n l t e m f rm o B ed s w rm of e a . err ed il w ra n . y s k o , B g , e gal y k o B g D hr Du r T ernmn e a n . . inces. h e seed from Gov e t of In dia. , N W P ov oa a s l r led f mth wh ich th e c c ons were reared w rece iv 0. C rse r w i k ee ro e cocoons o o as ed - o t r u M a Go rnm o f t e mulb err f l h h th e dras e en t. E xh ib i e d si rm n l. d y e kwo , B g ra, B e g a o g v t - b D u . n l m e t ur Ge . . ho t D v rn M . . G e en t of nd a. r t o I i y p y S g J S , ,

Raw r le fromth c c on of h Yerk ad Sh e varo s. 4 . silk ee d e o o s t e , y mul130ra - l m o ualit R tra w c loure d ra w sil reeled fr mth fed si wor l west s. 8 6 . e y k , q y , 4 4 S o k o er seer ldah en a rnmen of cocoo ns of th e mulb err -fed si ormof e n l . l. Go e t l w p Ma , B g v y k B g a . d D Du n l n . eh ra n . W. ro i c e ia e . T e d r I , N P v s h s e om Raw silk reeled fromth e coc oon s of th e wh ich th e cocoons were rea red was re ce ive d - mul t -tc lk th rouh h a n r d i w m middl ( uali R t e M dras G er men t . E xh ibi s r e t s. ted y o , y , g ov b u - D r nl . n . M D 0 r e t Ge . h or 1 8 r M l men t S tt . . see . a dah n al G rn , B e g . ove y p y g J S , , i Y rkad S h aro s ofI n a e v . . , e y w i a Ra w sil reeled f Ra eel m o . r m e l n 443. s lk r ed fro th e coco ns of 464 k o C y o green h m - o n No 3 S . 9 2a . t ulb err t c c s. ee e ed sil m 1 1 r. y kwor , Rs. per se e oo Maldah al b Ra w sil reel d fr m o en . Go ernmen f n i 6 . e e l n h i , B g v t o I d a . 4 4 k o C y w te

l o n s. See o . 39 2b Ra w si k reeled fromth e cocoons o f the coc o N . mul t r - i n di n h n - fed il rmb e u 1 2 6 . Nat e a a d reel for l n s wo st alit Rs. er ree i sil y k , q y, p 4 5 v I g k o n G o n men of i d c o s. er t nd seer. f ia oc a . Mal ah n l. o n n e a G er men o d . , B g v t I v I ' mf r n f D ed floss sil h alian in n 44 Tra o weavi g made rom the silk 466. y k (P ) difie re t - co lous. an n . e Rs r r. of t e mulb er f n l r . see Da ry ed silkworm of Be g a . p ves Sa h ai hanab ad Hu h umb a M ull Hall S treet Amri s r Pu e l i al t a n b . i Di t n . Go rn a J , g str c , B e g ve C , , , j ment of n ia l ss sil Kath a im o rted fro m I d . 467 . F o k ( ) p C 34 i i h i i Colon al and I nd an Emib t on .

’ e r d ad l - a e M . r fl il K o l see . D . i ed o from Y k , ras Rs. pe r avee 489 Bo s k warp re y , ah ai h um - n b a Mull Amritsar nati e d ed ra e . S C , . v o g

c 6 . ani b nt ll tor of mb at re M a d ras. sil from a ul cleaned . R 1 e c e oi 4 8 T k C , s. 6 S y o C o , ‘

er r. o mr n see a a h m ull G ve i t t I ndia. p D ves Sah i C u b a M , Amrit - I sar. liiileg0fl silk warp from Ko re y a 6 ian l na e-d . il gg hal im from ub u ed red. 4 9 S k (P ) rted C , y

Rs . n b o f imb a M a d ras ar seer. Dav hai h mb a ull e t c llect r o Co t re p ee C u M , S y o o , , “ m “ G ern ment of d ov In ia. ’ - f m ni "s im m . iled ofl il war ro 470. i tar) ported fro B engal 49 1 Bo s k p - Rs. r r e h h mb a ul nati e d ed b lac th the seeds ofSemeca r us e see . Dav a ai p e S C u M l v y k, wi p ’ Amr itsar, P u ab . n l o m 1 . il gardham m rted fr mB uhara e t b c lect r of o i bat re 47 S k ( ) i o k . S y o C o , 1 2 m Rs. G er seer. Dav e i humb a ern ent of ndia. p e C Mull, ov I ° Amr n mul b e r itsar Pun ab . Raw sil of th e coc s of the r , 49 2. k oo y

il h a i mor fr m n fed sil w rm inne elli adr . G o e rn 2. C ted B e al . as v 47 S k ( pp ) i o g . k o T v , M 1 0 m er seer. Davee gahai h mb a Mull ent of ndia. p C u , I Amri n s ofthe mulb e r tsar u ab . in i of he , P j 93 . F e s lk t cocoon r y f63 o e rn . il Makh tal im rted fr m n al sil w rm. udda ah adras. G o 473 S k ( ) po o B e g . k C p , M v

Rs. 6 ment f n er see r. Dav ahai hum M o dia . p ee S C ba ull, I ' Amri P b Raw ofth e c o ns of the mulb err tsar, un a . 494. silk coo y

h fed sil M . G ov rn b oea e al m f m w rm. ud ah adras e . il h i rted r da 474 S k M ) po o k o C p , h mnt f C ina. . r see r. D v h e o ndia Rs pe a ee Sa ai I . hum un Ra o of th e mulb C b a ull Amritsar ab . . wsil ofth e c c ns err M , , P j 49 5 k o o y

P from i fed si l orm f r t c nin . udda h il ul im rted h na. . 1 w a te lea C 475. S k ( h ) po C Rs 1 k , firs g pa ,

um adras. Go rnmn t of n Davee ahai h ba ull Amritsar e e dia. S C M , , M v I h 496. Raw silk of t e cocoons of th e mul b e - ilk ani m r rr f sil in ur n . Go v rn war (T ) i po ted y ed kworm. D ap , B e gal e ri 2 r Dav a ment of ndi ce 9 . 1 e seer. p ee S h ai I a. i o h mul humb a ull Amr tsar Pun b ernmn . aste sil f h c ns f t e C , , ja . Gov e t 497 W k o t e ocoo b err -fed sil Stutfin of th e b ed o f th e y kworm. g ' u . in eren t c l u een of ur n t of n er men dia. 477 Silk dyed difl o o rs with " B ma. Gov I u e aniline d es V h an . 1 8 r ur d ed in utta. An ilin ard . Rs e seer 8. ss sil alc y ( ) p . 49 T k y C

t d e . G Davee ah ai h umba ull Amri sar un ab s ern mnt f ndia. S C M , , P j . y ov e o I - Raw sil of th e mulb err fed . ussur sil d ed crims n ell w an d 78 " k y 99 T k y o , y o ' s wormFanara B mb a G ernmen of vio et. G ernmn of ndia. . , o y . ov t ov e t I

dia. in il sho win th e In 500 501 . Tussur weav g s k g rse w il o th ul mdern im D ed b Coa ra s k f e m b erry fed o provements in dyeing i t. y y Mr men d . rdl il w s re . G t of n i a e . s k orm. My o overn I a . W - . Raw il of th e mulb err fed sil w rm 2. ussar we in sil b leach ed b h e 81 s k y k o , 50 T av g k, y t mst im d f mc co n s rai fr mseed b in r s M r ardle. ree e r se d ta ed ed r ces . o o o o o o ov p o By . W

D ut ilk d a . oc l re . Exhib e . c a a sc r M ited b B ur . n n ni l a l . i o es a y yso y p y g 503 ocoo s C lo , M g l en t b r h M . D. erh M . Gen . . r t ad ardle . J S o t , , Y , L y W

. ussur il The wen Sh evaro 505 T s k thread. T ty uh il of h e mulb err -f d il w 1 Par an l G ernment of la s t e s rm as n . 482. g k y k o g , Be ga ov - {238 w b a h in cl th es. dda used for eaving t o Cu pah ,

ad G ernment of ndia. 06 87. 0 . ussur raw sil nati e reelin . M ras. ov 5 5 7 T k, v g irb h um led fr mth c co ns o e n ment of ndia. Ra sil ree e f th e al. G ern 483. w k o o o B , B g ov I - u wo udda ah adras 08. ssur ra sil nati e reelin . Fatwa mulb erry fed silk rm. C p , M , 5 T w k, v g ,

ia B en al. G ernmen t of ndia. Government of Ind . g ov I ' - . u un s l atwa n . iled ofl sil war fromKore al d ed 0 sur si waste. B e al 4. Bo k p y , 5 9 T k F , g m t £n b llect r of oimb atore arkus G vern en of ndia . t y Co o C , M o I

1 . ussur sil B ardwan B en al . 0 thread. Governmen t of I ndia . 5 T k , g m w mulb err silk fr mKore al. G e rn ent of 85. Ra y o y ov u m“ ” r of imb atore 1 1 . ssur raw sil reeled fro Dhab a Sen t b y collecto Co , 5 T k u ur sil i b hum . n ss c c ns. n B e n al Government of I dia. T k o oo S g , g ' - e mn iled ofl sil war from Kore al G v rn e t of ndia. 486. Bo k p y , o I " - n raw sil reeled from B o ura native d ed ora g e. k g

um B en . f imb at re adras. c c ns. in b h al Sent y collector o Co o , M o oo S g , g men G ern t of ndia. Government ofIndia . ov I - uss 1 a iled off sil war from Kore el 1 . ur sil waste . No. . nb h um 487. Bo k p y , 5 3 T k M ,

- B en l. a ent b . . e e Es . native d ed crimson . g S y T F P pp , q

. us l a anb ur si ste. o 2 h llect r 1 s w N . . um Sent y co o 5 4 T k M ,

B en l. a ent b . Pe é E s . Government of India . g S y T. F pp , q ' ” - “ il o fl silk war from Kore al 1 . ussur raw silk reeled fr m B o oi 488. Bo ed p y , 5 5 T , o g - ussur il u B en . lo s c c ns. in b h al native d ed yel w. T k o oo S g m, g G men r of C imbato Madras. ern t of n Sen t y collecto o re, ov I dia. “ ” . 1 m Loris G men of India 6. ussur raw sil reeled fro overn t 5 T k. ndian i t e 5 I S lk Cul ur . 3

T ussar b e l t sil c c ons in h um n l. un for in into c o h . Net led . a ric ini s w a ree . k o o S g , Be g , p v g G o r mn f n of i e n G ern e t nd a . v a ur Assam. m e t ndia. Din o I jp , ov I T us An ur i na r l f h E ria ilk o At . ra n u i o t s w rm tacus ricin i 1 sur sil . a d d 5 7 w k p , M p 545. S k e , ,

B e n a l. f ia i e . an fo n to clo . t led g Government o Ind . sp r weav ng i th N ree m 1 . ussur il nd ur i A e n of n i M ru . G rnm t d a. 8 s waste. Ana dna m ssa 5 T k p , Ka p, ov e I u B i ‘ r e n al. men of nd a. i t h e E ri il o At cus G ern t . lk o t a s w rm ta p , g ov I 546 S k ,

. uss ra b a i l d un for t nto c o h . Ne ree le . 1 ur w sil aram tate. ricin i s weavi t t 5 9 T k . B S , p O r i ssa . o n o i . of ndia G ernm f n l i r n a . go vern e v e t I d a Ja pa g ui, Be g l mnt I .

us u . a h E i l n i a. s r ra sil R r B an Si of e r si w mAttacus rici 20 2 w am . l t a r 5 5 0 T k jg , 547 k k o , , u ra . G i un o nt lot e led . v rnment of nd a. ea N t ree k o e I sp f r w ving i o c h . u a t Assa v of ndia . il un e b i . s a ment . 2 1 ssur waste d d d ed G ul m. G ern 5 T k , ( ) y , ( ) y ( ood q y ) o I wit h ma en nc i hutia a ur n i of h e n i o o rm ta. a h B e l t E d r E ria sil w g R , C N g p , 548. S k k ,

a l . n G ern e t di . Att n in o h m of n a acus ricin i s u for wea in t cl t . g ov I , p v g o i ma . . co d w en ta o mn Tus s il rd ed t l . r n l 2 m ur s th N ree ed n u a . ern e t 5 k , y g Ra g p , B e g Gov

a n c h i hui n al . n f nd t a ur G er ia . R , C Nagp , Be g ov o I m n t o e f ndia. l of h ua rm A t x a . i t e M sil n her I 549 S k g kwo ,

. a Mi na ur n al . A a i r n t ussur r w sil . m d e s . mu Assa n of 22 a h m. G er e 5 T k p , B g m L k p , ov G o ve rn m f n n nt o sia . e I dia. I u u i of n ati e reelin fr mRam il o f t s o az T ss r s l v . h e Mua rm Anther a 523 . k g o 550 S k g ilkw , de r n ear hri h ah b ad a i th e n a De a en n A mru m o ia . Ka Assa . l ssama . Go ern me f nd , , S , B g , p, v t I ree lin of hich cas r il nd th l aline il o sil t a g w to o a e a k 551 552. S k f Muga kworm(Juh

t sa u n . ear u . h i ma tti are sed . e t b . M a Antheraea Assama . a himur Assam , j , S y T F g ), L k p , P e é s E . e mn t of ndia G rn e . pp , q ov I

. u u . n h a ss r raw sil Ga a B e . l w ve fro i f u 524 T k y , gal 53. C ot o n mth e s lk o th e M g D ur sil ar on h - £w . d uss w an l sil orm A t tr n of e d r n hertea As a/ma . G ernme t 5 y T k p ee . , ov J wa n l ernmen of n a t Go t di . dia. a e a . v n F , B g I I ' - t ur il ar on h nd l. n . i en w s S fl ed uss s a ree M i urb an . m. er 526 T k p 554. uga lk t Assa Gov F N mn t of ndi n o me t f In ia . at a n l G n e a. d , Be ga . over I ' ' unstiflened ussur sil il of th e Mu sil o Anthema Stiflen ed and . a w rm T k 555 S k g k ,

ment of ndia . ssama un from ierced c on fo wea a t l. G ern A s r v w r . a a n p F w , Be ga ov I , sp p co o , i m n int l il of th Eri s l w r Attacus ricini i c th . Not reeled . A Go ern S k e k o , , g o o ssam. v

h No l d n f n i . t . e t o d spun for weaving into clot . ree e m I a i M i ae akh imur Assam G ernment of ndia . . l of th e ua s l worm Anther a L p , . ov I 556 S k g k , r i m. Assama . ib sa a Assa Go rn nt of nd a . a t mad silk cl th . Ama m. e me 529 . N ive e E ria o S g , v I n f atterned sil damas sh ot with Mua G overnme t o India . s P k k g ’

rm tt cus c ni “i remAssam. Go ernm n o n . il of th e E ria sil w A a ri i s e t f dia. 530 S k k o , , v I r ussur mth s a n er l o d . n o o La u o n t th . N l d coc s sp n f r weavi g in o c o t ee e 558 . T o on g n s I n B mb t b mia ica . a en men of I dia. trae nd a h m Go ern . a imur Assa . t L k p , v Poo , o y L y i - l u o u. m r t G il f d i n ur e t . o n ak es d u d r m e Er a sil cl th . i a Co e w . ati e ad C 53 1 N v k o D jp , L W oo , ,

l G ernmen of ndia. urre late of na. Ben g a . ov t I S y, Poo

Native made Eria sil cl th em . en l imerfect ati e reelin o f raw 532. k o , 59 B p N v g h silEfr mwgaits and ell c c ns of th e or b ro de e t b Mr . . e e Arra w i red. L n y . T F P pp , , o y o o oo din lb err -fed sil w n h e sil n al ar mu rm. I t B e g . y y k o k, a n weft s un threads of E ria rtions of th e coc ns will b e seen to h a e 533. W rp a d p oo v ‘

m rn n all wed to run u into th e ree led h an . sil Attacus ricin t . w n Assa . G e b k, No go g , ov o p k f n m r emen t effected in Decemb er me nt o I dia. I p ov

ati e made E ria sil cl th . w n 1 8 in reelin en al c c ns with th e Taw 534. N v k o No go g , g B g o oo

en t of ndia lette ns n b Mr. Wardle sh win th e Amam. Governm I . Co o o, y , o g i h e n m o l i is ativ made E ria sil cl th . w n h stat of refi e en t f which en a s l 535. N e k o No go g , g B g k i ble r n n susce ti . Govern me t of d a. b r e reelin Assam. I p y p op g w o A m. . E uro n llo ra sil sh wi th e Waste E ria sil Attac us ri ini. ssa 61 ea e w n 536. k, c 5 p y k g hi h t t l f ia es s andard of ree in attained in tal . Government o Ind . g g I y E ndi l th made fr m th e sil of laced h ere to sh w b c marison th at th e 537. c o , o k P o y o p

am e mnt of ndia. re ularit a d neness of h r are uite Ass . G rn e n t ead Attacus ricini. ov I g y fi q ull of E ria silk Atta cus ricini. e a ed in en l sil h e n a Balls waste , q B ga k w en th cocoo s re '

e f dia. r erl reeled. Assam. G ernmnt o n La mpur, ov I p op y

il of th e Eria sil w rmAttacus ricini 62. oc ns ofth e esi or h ta oloo sil 539 . S k k o , , 5 C oo D C o p k rmof en l B t o ree . L ak w N n l th N t led a : u us. or i to c . omb ort na em spun f weaving o o B g , ya f ov

f . b er or c d w h n m o ndia l r u . f th h ur Assam. G ern ent eat e b d sed or b t himp , ov I o U o e f ra sil of th e Eria sil w rm nati e reeled ell w sil and for th a 540. Ball o w k k o , v y o k t

i n f r wea in int cl th . sh win th e imr vement Attacas ricin , a o v g o o o g p o

men t . Raw sil reeled at h e urdah ilature L r Assam. G vern 6 t Not reeled. ak pn , o 3 k S F '

ofi1 essrs. . atson B a shahi en al & Co . R W , , B g , m h T i to il of the E ria sil w r with t e avelette ns n 25 30 den ers. 541 543. S k k o , Co o o, ot u ah is h n fil ure of s for ea in int cloth . N rd t e ame of he h ead at Attacus ricini , pun w v g o S t b oth er me nt of ndia . th is exte nsi e c man whic h emraces m. Gove rn l . lb Assa ree ed S et, I v o p y, ' fila ures o f of th ria sil w rm Attacus filatures in the district. Th e t 544. S e E k o , e 2 E ition 36 Colonial and I ndian xhib .

n e of wh ich th e factor at Gh atal is lwar is celebrated and which is th ere rae Rad ag re, y U , p

h also b el n to this coman Ghatal ised with th e reatest in en uit and atie n c e . t e head, o g p y. , t g g y p muni i n in h A b a d r b th e D Hun r is a c l t w e o . ur reduce in l wa writes r. te , pa o t t C T ns U y il i er nda d o tuated n th ai v na s. l Midnapur District, si o e S R Ba reces b rder. h th ii con T n in w b h B a n d a na n t n . u a n ear its junctio wi e R pnaraya , D ur a prod ced Ul r y t e i ulati n of ab ut six en th usand r cess sh win th e meth d in wh ic h t he tain ng a op o o te o , p o , o g o e p i h e d e m H du I i n c l th is ti read for d in . nce t n arly al of wh o are in s. t s a o ed y ye g S y ial n n i e n h as n un ed and artia ll ir ortant commerc tow , tradi g n ric , i g process it b ee ti p y

sag cotton cloth &c unrelled. , . il l b h n an E ub an r duced n lwar b th e B an da n a s ree t st di . r i 564. Raw k ed y e b e I T p o U y

. t t h urdah ilature of R. T "se sh win the meth d in which th e c l th me h od a t e S F Messrs. OO , o g o

h i en . O l de tied read for d ein . ince th e d e in Watson Co ., Rajs ah , B gal l /l is y y g S y g

process it has b ee n part untied and unrolled .

u ilature ub a i h d b rd r a ia l un tied. il r ed at th e rdah . r n t ol e rt l 5. Raw s k eel S F F T w g o p y i n l h rin d ur n I n dia o. a Man c r ban se t offiessrs. R. ats n C a sh ah e . este te t to W o , R j , B g , 572 p t o i mi l r an dan w rk T vel t ns n den ers. an i tati n of wa a . with the a e e Co o , as o U B o

I ul re ed lin o t umur sil El tricit a lied to d in b M r. 566. v ree g T k 57 ec y pp ye g y

. ur 1 atson o urdah ilat e a e. Messrs. R . C , S F ,

A. sh ow th e licati n of th e al a n ic ahi n al. s a sh , B e g pp o g v mM n u ar fr . with ns essrs. . ats rren in rintin t is re ed 567 . Cocoo o R W o c t p g Th e clo h p i en l mo i ta in a n d a sh ah a . a ist rec i to of i 0 t ardah , R j , B g p pruss ate t tr u h he a c ns of ricula ri enes ata . laced on a tin m l te c nn ecte d wit t . Co oo C f p p p a o

c ns of th e ussur sil w rm. cath de or n e ati e le of h b atter an d b . Co oo T k o o g v po t e y , llow and white c c ns of th e mul written u n with a latin um ncil c nn ected c. Ye o oo po p pe o - w w h h n o . it d . b erry fed silk orm Burma. t e a o e r positive pole of th e b attery c n of Mul rr e a ic c l Desi ierced c s the b e Th l an urren t de el s th e c ur. d. p o oo y g v v op o o mb er b n x l il o . e i n am e of i i b fed s kw rm Nov e d. B s a e p nd go disch arged y th e edrasses or hot weath er c c ns of al anic current b th e same arran eme n t as a. M o oo g v y g l rr -f w e d n u m b e ed sil rmun vene describ ed i A . Th cl th is rs d b l th e u y k o , , e o fi t ed e

sun dried. with indi and th en i.s. go prepared with b ié romate w Madrassee or h ot eath er coc ns of th e of 0task . f. oo - i imi mulb err fed s l w rm e ened i. s. 8is a s lar examl sh h mi l k o , v , p e owing th e c e ca '

artific dried. h an e wh ich y c g occurs. ’ r Novemb er b und c coons of h is h me . Desi o t e D t e sa as B b ut t saflranim g o , wi h - w the o mulb err fed sil w rm unevened i. e. mixed ith luti n f b i f o t y k o , , so o chromate o p ash . - E . Th cl d sun d ried. e oth is dye with Munjeet (Rub ia or N emb er b und c co n of th e man ista and th wri a . esi s e r h D ov o o j ), tten part disch g ed b y me lb ert -fed silkw rm evened electrol sis of b i o , , y chromate of potash with t he

cia I dried. al anic nc il artifi g v pe . :fk as m M n l s w te fr es . i m i . e a srs s the sa e nd of indi dischar 568 B g , o F k g o g e as B, urdah R s hi en l ha a . but wi h n o. a t a rn Wats C , . , g atte cut in latinum late con o S j B p p p , aste fr m Mess oot w t h ussur sil w rs. h ed i h t e b atter a l to 569 . T k , o y, pp ied th e moist h a h n l urda sha i e a . l h in t a o. c t s ead of h l W tson C , S , R j , B g o , t e ga vanic pen cil . n f his th Th e Calcutta Age ts o t firmare Me G . Green 010 dye d with I ndig o and e o Th e London A en ts Hursin h ar w ardin e inn r C . ers N cta ar J , Sk g , g flo ( y nthes bortristis),

o . mb ard eet re h ath es n C 3 tr . ared with b ic r mate f d Mew s. M o , , Lo S p p o o potash an dis Raw il s reeled in th e usual B en ch ar ed in stantane usl 5 0. s k g o y b y writin g upon it b he en al il m n B e r with th e al anic nc 71ed t a e il. met y B g S k Co p y, g v p

H. Th me as em re en al. e sa b ut with th e a licati n po , B g B, pp o a A series of hanks of raw sil 1 0 to 1 3 of a less werful alvanic curr . k, po g en t.

enetes . Th me a iers. G e sa s ut w den . b es r I B, ith th e pol re ve sed. b k of ra w Th d h b . eries of an s sil 26 to 30 e isc ar e is th erefo A s k, g re at th e b ack o f the c l a deniers. Cossimb az aar. oth nd penetrates only sligh tly to th e side

series of h an s of raw sil 1 1 to 1 3 exhib ite d. c. A k k, - an amati. h rt r l s deniers. R g 5 4. S o ee ed pun native silk for M utka ‘ o h f ra il 0 lo 71 f anks o w s 1 6 to 2 c t b iled fl . d . A series e Jink ra near urdah k, o , S Raj

B en eti. s h n l M d niers. h a i e a . u cl e j , B g tka oth is woven nu

f i m is Mr. . d e Mana er o th s c an . ed and rinci all at Da r Th g o p y J W y , p p y c a, six miles from

rhamur and the alcutta A ent urdah . Stoc ks of Be p , C g s, S - l M arsh all Co . Th e Lo ndon . h rt reeled s n l Messrs. Lyal , 5 5 S o pu native si k for M utka An rse ro cl um n A ents are M essrs. de n th ers ot in . Ji kra n ear urdah a h g B , g , S R js ah i,

E . n l ane . e a u 1 6 hil t C . M t a cl th is en und P po L , B g k o wov yed, and urati Tie-and-D e or andana w r rinci all at D . G acra six miles f m ud 1 y k, p , r r ah b ut 57 j B o p y o S , ‘ in ari us st les of stri es and laids eflected with o ut th e umha in v o y p p , g v g b een disch arg ed . e l b t in and d ein cloth for turb ans a l ntire y y g y g 576. N tive imp ement for spinn ing silk for

successi e in ari us wa s. h ese turb ans Mut a v v y cl th . B acra near Surdah Ra sh ahi y o T k o , , j are very b eautiful examples of an art for which

3 8 and i Colonial I ndian Exhib tion.

‘

N0 . of

1 9 H Phi i n Jones. B etter kn , losamia r ei i, own as Atta cus ri

B r in M Di 6 e useum. P I X . tto. Moth , d ( l. ) — 21 , a h

i lhet Assam. D tto. Sy , — 23 , a h Ditto .

‘

th d 9 itto. Pl i M s . D tto. o , , D ( . IX )

i fCoc ns B red in useum. D tto. Mass o oo M

“ - b d 26, a Ditto. Moth s, , 9

—b ‘ 28 a Di to. th s 2 d , t Mo ,

P . l. i . P . t i Dru . 00 F B cyn h a, ry ( XIX , g e tte r kn wn as A us m m. tta c c nth o y ia .

Ditto. Moth s, d , 9 — 1 b la Linn . 3 , a Attacus at s, th d Mo s, , 9 — b ar b . P a cl V . l x . n 32 A. atlas Linn . th s 9 s. a d , , Mo , Burma ( x1 . ) — 33 a c D . ns , itto Cocoo

4 a—b Dit h s d 9 3 to. t , Mo , Sikkim.

B un ua. A. Edwar i hite. i m dsi , W Lakh mpur, Assa M g Cocoon

9 Dit . 2 to Moth s,

’ Pl X . i t M . IV F . Ac ias selene, c Leay . ( , g n

—b 38 a l. . Di h s e P Fi . P t . 9 l . X , t o Mot , ( XIV , g V.)

m ac s i h Ditto A. s t e opposite

’ Antheraeo scsass a H l p am, e Sib sagar and Kam

fer. C c ns u Assam o oo r p,

— 41 a d Ditto . ns s , Cocoo Lakhimpur, A sam

— ‘ 42 a b Ditto. hs d 9 Mun ld i m B red in useum. Pl. I , Mot , , ga a , Assa M ( V .)

ioula tr enestrata Hel Cr if , Ranchi B un of n fer. ch Cocoo

which are suspended to the

on which th e w ms or feed. b y l en c or si k ords shreds. I ndian i utur S lk C l e. 39

c Lo ality . Ritual s.

i 44 a —d Crioula tr enestrata Hel Ra red in M , if , nch B useum.

fer. th s 1 d 3 9 P Mo , , ( l. XIII . )

45 H , Singb h eom. oc s C oon .

Ditto . C c ns Phillour P n b u a . o oo , j — 47 0 6 A. mlitta Drur o ns 9 y , y, Coc o Burdwan .

A. mli tta rur var. win tach ment y D y , Calcutta Sho g mode of at Cocoon to sh oot of Terminalia A end of catappa . t th e ‘ th e cle of th e cocoon is a mu whi h li g , c , ke th e edicle i lf c is of p tse , ons ts i s lk, and which firm" clas h e i w io ps t tw g , to h th e cocoon h angs sue ded

l . P ik e a b erry ( I.

An therwa mlitta Drur alcut sho w mde of t mn y , y, C ta To o a tach e t r o va . Cocoon t petiole and midrib of

l af f T . e o . catappa

it n 4 s i ann D to . Showi g succe s ve ular attach me n ts b e low th e pul vin ns of a s many leaves ofa

shoot of Termina lia arjuna .

51 H itt . M th d B red in Museumfr mwild , D o o s, , 9 o d n T oa cocoons foun o . tappa P B adam ( l . III .)

52 a — An theraea mlitt r Maunb h ifferin reatl on the , g a, va . um D g g y neb ulosa ut n 1 u er surfac e in the sh ad , te , d , pp e 6" of th e ro und lour th Moth s g co , ey are all a hk e b e low in b oth e use um sex s. red in M B .

53 a—b h o un P Ant erwa F M c n n wn . l. . , ri thu, oore, Co o k o ( VIII , 6 M oths Fig .

i . I . An theraea Hel i r Dit . Pl. . F fer , Moo e, to ( XVI , g ) d‘ M th 9 o s.

— ‘ 55 a b Ca li ula ei la d fromMuss rie 9 fr m , g m , West oo ; o Ku on fr mth e Hutt n wood, 6 " Moth s ma o o l F l i n . P . X I i col ect o ( V , g .

m h e Hutt n c ll i Neoris Hut i Moore ro t ect n . ton , , Ditto. F o o o

Pl Fi . 9 Moth ( . XIX. g

57 a—b Rinaca z uleika H e i m il of no ractical value , op , S kki S k p . ‘ 6 Moth and Cocoon

Sa la am lola estw Di oc mun n wn . , W ood, tto . C o k o 9 31 0 th ndi 40 Colon ia l and I an Exhibition .

ivin e s and c c o n s of th e ndian ne er lea es th e c c n whilst the male h as 583 . L g g g o o I v v o oo , uh e uss r sil w rmAn therwa mlitta . small trans r nt win s and er m c r T u k o , y pa e g , v y s ill r i in e lar ae or cater a s semb les th e h i e b ee . 584. L v g g g , v p , v cocoon s and moth s o f the Ch in ese Tussur silk Living cocoons and moth s of a specie s o f Th i rs a m h i h i a ur en a l worm An therwa ern i. e cater lla re P s chideaz fro anc ut a , p y p y R , C N g p , B g ,

e oa k tree Pl th e r o wh ch feeds on th tea la n t. f edin g on th e leaves of th e . ( cate pillars f i e p i nd h r lides of a a r a . 1 in rabs a c sa XVII ) 59 . L v g g y p i in e s c c n s and mth s of the sitic i tarons fl which la s its e in t h e 585. L v g g g , o oo o D y, y g g

m. I f a sil wormAttacus ricini. Assa cater il ar of tn ematrata . t h e Eri k , p Crioula f i in 6 8 c co ns and moths of c c n of the la tri eneatrata is to b ec me 586. L v g 82 . o o o oo Criou f o Attacus c n thia his is th e wild formf und in of c mmercial imortan ce it will b e n ece ssa r y . T o o p y a o P the Tarai on th e Himal yan sl pes. ( ls. to protect th e wormfrom th e attack of th is n Di i s. 1 a d d in o e o f th e . ro un s m I te us fl . ha e fo XVII , XIX , F g p y I v ivrn e s ca te r il lars cocoons an d b unch n of th e w rms L es of c c ns 80 er ce t. 587 . g gg . p , o oo p o hut mo oula tri en estrata . anc hi ia ill th s of Cri f R , C k ed b it.

Na ur e n al. Th e cater illars are feedin Livin cater illars and c c ns ofActia s g p , B g p g 59 2. g p o oo o n th e lea es o f th e lumtree but th eir natural Inna fr mNor h Amri Th e ter illars ar e v p , , o t e ca. ca p food i h e lea es of Oroz lun indicum Kha n feedin on e wal u s t v y , g th n t tree . " m o la P a - an and Tetranthera on eta o k . ate r c lour drawin ofth e e s ca ter d , p , j 9 3. W o g gg , il5r o . d mth o f h ndi n ussur Pl . a s c co ns an s t e a ( XIII ) p , o o I T i in e s coc ns an d mth s of sil wormAntheraea mlitta re rese nted as b e in 588 . L v g gg , oo o k , y , p g

i cecro ia . attach to b ranch o L t i I n d ica Sama p ed a f agers rwma , ie f n unnamd P u e r rare s ec s o a e a on the lea es of wh ich th e cate r illars fe ed . 589 . Y y p y p v p i oc n d m - ne l . i n c s an oth s uild c of Se a . e nt b L l ou m wood G h ideaz t o . ss aker est g L v g oo L y . C C , W , m e of this s ecies is Win less and f r T u mb a . h e fe al d . of n p g o , S rrey Late Poo a, Bo y

News TO Pum a.

I . and . will b e f n On Ple. XXV II XXIX oud drawing s of the microscopic appearances of th e d ifferen t fib res of sil which i e a c rrect idea of th eir ar in s k, g v o v y g tructure . r f re On Pl. XXXVIII. a e a e w presentations of the microscopic appearances of th e scales o f a - r duin mo h s. P fe w of th e silk c t See als l. F i 2. p o g o XXII g .

h a e a lso added in Pls. . to I . I v , XXX XXXVI , representations of some of th e plants whic h furn ish th e fo d of se eral s ecies of ndian o v p I silkworms. I n the antal Jan les th e lea es of Terminalia mcnt to oaa Pl. formth f S g v ( XXX . ) e ood o f th se ussur sil worms wh se c coons are in tended to b e utilised industriall T o T k o o y . h e worms wh ose - cocoon s are intended for b reedin are fed on th e lea es of Sherca r g v obusta ( Pl . T h e rices of ussur c c ns in atwa Man b h umGa a and h t p T o oo F , , y , C uia Nagpur are sh own in l in b le anuar 1 886 the fo low g ta (J y, )

Fatwa 1 20 cocoons per rupee B est cocoons 1 6 0 Common cocoons 5 to 7 rupees for 800 1 0 rupees for 1 000 320 cocoons per rupee Formerly 24 0 Recen tly 1 60 to 200 Price wh ich the natives are nowdemandin g .

At th e b e innin of the ear the c n g g y o tract price for Indian Tussur waste silk was in Fra nce l a. 6d . er lh . th e hi h est ra te e t ob tained and for p , g y , Tussur raw silk of th e improved reelin 7 3 s. g d .

e lh . i r as a a nst 8 d . er lb . for h inese ussur p , g l p C T raw silk. Th e ollec t r of iz a a atamin f rmd m C o V g p o e e that immense tracts of country in his district r duced ussur coc n p o T oo s. fe w articulars of the lu a e of Muga and E ria silks ma b e useful in th is catal ue A p v y og . l u . M g a . Th e sil o f th e Mu a c c on is reeled not s un k g o o , p . Th e two principal trees upon wh ich the Mua silk w rm g feeds are th e Scorn Muchilas odora tissima P o ( l. XXXIII a ), . , nd the Sudlu Tetran lhera mono e l ( ta a . Th e rice for c p ) p ocoons for reeling is 500 to 800 cocoons for uture 41 I ndian Silk C l .

R o 1 8 d . l The r for aste coc ns is Rs. 2 er r c n tain in nearl 3000 coc ns r . 6 . . p ice w oo p see o g y oo ,

u ra fr mR o 1 2 r or 68 . 9 8 . er lb . e r lb . h e ri f a sil is s. 8 t Rs. er see to p T p ce o M g w k o p , p

. r u l th in M u b uh for Rs 4 e seer or 3 0. er lb Th rice of a c g a spun yarn can b e o g t p , p . e p M g o

R . 2 2s d. u A s s a m ari . 1 8 to s . 3 to r s are ard v es fromRs ( pe q y . — 2 E n s ld at R . 2 n n u c c ns i are 8 to Rs. 3 ntai ab t 3600 r a. E ia c c s s er seer i . r o oo o p , co g o o oo , —maun d o r E n n u R . 7 r l s . I O . to 28 3d . er lb . ierced ria c c s sell i alc tta at Rs. 60 to s 0 e N . p P o oo C p

o f lb . o ns contain in th e dessicate d ch r salis sell at th e rate 2 1 1 3d . r c 8 l r 1 . 8 . e b s. , o 8 . d to p C oo g y

o f 1 b ut 9 ann as er seer c n inin 00 c c ns 5d. er lb . Th e 200 to 1 500 per rupee or at a o p , o ta g 7 o oo ( p ) ri l f h h s r seer or c h w uh Th e a ue o t e t read aries fr m Rs. 4 to R . 7 e es e er ar mc . p , v v p , o v , v y o uld men n i made of sil s n fromthe c c n a nd 3 8 . d h o ti s u to 58 . 3d . er lb . E ria hrea s p t , I o , k p o oo n o b hi n u f h wo en with this t reeled it is n ractica le reel t s c c . Th e al e o E ria cl t , as ot p to o oo v o v

' s un th R 20 for to ard acc rdin to ua lit or 1 8 . 6d. to 58 . p read varies fromRs. 7 to s. 6 7 y s o g q y, e r r p y a d .

I . n und ild in th e Th P c nth Pls. . . 1 d 2 f w e hilmamia or Attacus y ia ( XVI I , XIX Figs a ) is o

' fr m Th P cim of Assam Pl . id rence e hilosamia or Attac us ri ( . IX ) is sa to owe its diffe o

A . t ia m on cy n h to do esticati . A fe o n i l l d sh uld w sh rt particulars ab out India Ser cuture wi l not b e out of place h ere, an o b e useful h er f ndia ea ter to I . T l il w rmof en al B omb a: tunat 2 c is said to h e Desi or h o eo s or us & . C ota p k o B g ( y f ), No. 35 , , h a e b een im r fr m h ina in 1 1 b e East ndia an b u ur ariet is n ow v po ted o C , 7 7 , y th I Comp y, t the p e v y l r o n to b e f und B o ree idna u. y o in g , M p Th M r o i o sil w rm B o z hrouh ut Nistr ol o mb c crwei . e ad assee r . i und t p k o ( y ), No 355, &c , s fo g o

th silk i I t is charac ri e b h in r un r s. e d stricts of Bengal. te s d y av g o d and not crescen t ma k Th e B ilkwormthe nl uni ltine r e t l in arts ore oloo s a i No . 69 d foud n p , o y vo v y, 3 , an oth ers, is n o y p of M r umDi i r duced ushida Huli idna ur an d irb h ctr ct . n int b ad, g , M p B s I t is said to have b ee o in 1 7 1 0 b ut ra ll in ne lected b rearers as recari an n in , is g dua y b e g g y p ous d ucerta . An th er i t of mulb err sil w rm n wn a hini f und nl i idna ur o var e y th e y k o , k o s C , is o o y n M p ,

en al. i il rm ell as th e B or oloo h as cr t B g Th s s kwo , as w o p , esen marks.

o n of rms f r seed urch a in d n d tri ts called Sanchoo . C coo s Mulberry silkwo o , p sed iffere t is c , are T h m d il worms of en al h a four multin b ein in the first sta e e ulb erry fee in g s k B g ve o gs, g g

- - b lac the sec n b l i h re th th ird re and th e fourth reenish white or re . Th e lea es k, o d ack s g y, e g y g g y v are i en h w t ch d u af e t ird moultin detach fromth e twi s g v to t e orms a first oppe p, t r h e th g ed g , an aft t r f rt un of coco ns are d er the fourth moulting attach ed to the twig s. Thir y o o y po ds o b ta in n A f leaf in th e o ed froman E nglish ou ce of eggs. bigha of land gives four crops o ear an r i y , d th e produce of cocoon s rea ed per b gha in th e year is 3 maundsd

I n th e Pun a n from s of i l 40lb s. j ub experime ts egg French , Italian and Japan ese origin y e ded o f c c ns un f e n at 1 I n e ce s a th lb s. o l o oo p r o o gg , d 6 f fresh cocoons yielded 1 lb . of raw si k . E ur 1 2l l e b s. to 1 4 l f n ld 1 b of . op b s. o cocoo s yie . silk I n Italy and in France sericulturists ob tain 40 to 60 kilogrammes of cocoons per ounce o f e s b ut th e ields ar with l calit and climate l ud in gg , y v y o y . This larg er yie d is th e result of st y g th e w rms in selecti n of e s in cr ssin th e n ume ari ties o ilk-w r o , o gg , o g rous v e f th e s o ms. Th e mulb err in en al Moms I ndica Tilt is r in cla e nd s il a ere nn ial y B g ( ), , g own y y or sa y o s as p

shrub . I t is cut d i h t tim a It m in th e s il own seven to e g es year. is planted once and re ains o until it wears itself out or th e r finds th er cr s mr b w is e nerall , yot o op o e profita le. Ne earth g y ut on to ren w th il Th e r ts b elon t o th e r t and n h z amindar p e e so . oo g yo ot to t e . h r m n 7 l i h b ear t ma . . MeP r f n il a . . 44 . Th e si s wh c e G G r m he e al C No k k . a e o t B g S k o p y u r McPh n i ind st . h mar is n i f . rso h o s is a c tract n o . e w o w n o fo de f th T k o o G G , as o e f th e un rs y romth 1 1 o th l of anuar 1 88 n xhi w h eld a Ram F e th t e 6th J y, 6, a e b ition of silk cocoons as t H re B eauleah a s trict e n l . I t was n nd l u rted b ord . po , R j hah i Dis , B ga ope ed a active y s ppo y L Ulic r wne mm on of th e a sh ah i isi n wh li ha it h as nd ub tedl k B o , Co issi er R j Div o , o b e eves t t u o y fostered a spirit of emulation among th e cocoon rearers b y b ringin g tog eth er th e cocoons of ari us sil r ducin tr ts and s th at t r r l E xhib iti n s v o k p o g ac , say h e e are g ounds for hoping that simi ar o l d uin district in i n d resul he d in th e ifferen t sil r d c s d ffere t a lead to ts. k p o g , years, my goo

h maund is ab out 82 lb s. There are three b igltac in an Englis acre . t A i io 42 Colonial and I ndian Exh bit n.

w ab o Roma Nalh Sen th e auth r of th e b est en a li e s sa A priz e of Rs. 50 was a arded to B o , o B g y h is essa is inte nded to b e rin ted an d c ie s dis tri an the meth od of rearing silk cocoons. T y p , op b n b h mone for the riz es was raised b sub scri ti ns in th e tri uted amo g th e exhi itors. T e y p y p o n i ur d hich G n nt added an e ual sum. e g hb o hoo , to w over me q

Th e numb er of exhib its were as under

a sh h 0 0 0 R j a i 0 0 . C O . 0 0 . 0 . 0 . 0 .

C O . 0 0 . 0 0 . 0 0 0 0 0 .

Th e following are the silk districts of B engal ess r B urdwan . J o . um B irb h . an ur R gp . d Hugli with Howrah an Serampur. n Parga as. adi N ya.

241 a 242 The s ide r sil exhib i e n m as b tained in 1 Nos. nd . p k t d under th ese u b ers w o 885 , wh en it was found th at in th e b eginning of Octob er a sufficient numb er of web s had b een spun to h to mmence th e c llecti mak e it worth w ile co o on. After a certain n umb er of trials it was foun d b est to collect th e silk b y win ding th e web s c ar full und sm th stic s fr mwhich th e ma b lica i n of h ot water e y ro oo k , o y y b e removed y th e app t o , b i l to unreal th e sil directl fro ut it is imposs b e k y mth e sticks. umb er of web s were c llec t so extremel An immense n o ted during th e mon th of Octob er, b u y li h n that it was im s ib le to ce s r c th n t iz 200 lb . g t is th e sub sta po p o ure anything like e qua ti y (v . s ) as ed for b th e G ernment of ndia. The amunt b tained includin th e stic s was nl k y ov I o o , g k , o y 2 ns f llectin which was R 3 w sen t to me b 8 lb s. he x e o co s. 8 il on tic s as , t e pe g 6 0. Th is s k s k y me th nt f ndia for ex eri nt. s h u M acclesfield me o ent it . r c le rst ns e Govern I p I to Messrs B o k So , , wh o h t win to th e small uanti r reported t a , o g q ty sent and to its b eing so mixed with refuse matte , t and s in t hey were unable to card p i . I amin formed that th e French Government has lately sent out forty reeling machines to

Madras for reeling Tussur cocoons.

Th mori c c ons 0. 382a have b m e B omb x een n b Mr. e ister of annin ha y o o , N , se t y S . W L , M g , r sh ire h o inf rms me th e are fromth e iste Gran hr D n and reared from Yo k , w o y L r t at De a a , l uumn nd that h French eggs sen t out ast a t , a e h as 2000 acres there nowun der mulb erry cultiva ti n nd tin se eral h undred acres er num It r b his s stemfor the o , a is plan g v p an . takes five yea s y y mul o b e f h e r er a e h d l ur th err l ts t o t . ese coc ml in iz e f rman c e b y p an p op g T oons rese b e s , o o o

“ race cu in r ence h a e reeled excell n e in th il ulture ourt ltivated P ov . I v e t silk fromth m e S k C C h ere of 1 0—1 2 den iers with th e Tavelette Conson See Ra i 2 2a o. w S lk, No. 7 . T i ndian il Cul he Exhib ts in this I S k ture Court numb er upwards of 800. I n addition to th e thirty-eight varieties of the cocoons of th e mulb erry-fed silkworm(B ombyx - f B en al which a d hib ited as aids to mar h r h an se o redescri d N . 2 0 n ex i), ot e t th o g , b ed un er o 7 , a seri h ave recei ed since th e t t u an d too late to b e cultural study, I v , ype of this catalogue was se p descri eir ro er lace twent -three s ime of h er arieti hiefi talian and b ed in th p p p , y pec ns ot v es, c y I , h exh ib ited c llect which I amplacing in t e o ion . Th ey are as follows

1 e w fr m oma na or Asc li reared in P mn . Y llo , o R g o , ied o t. fr m renees reared in iedmn 2. Yellow, o Py , P o t. mVar reared in iedm w fr n . 3 . Yello , o , P o t ll w fr m stria reared in Friouli 4. Ye o , o I , . ello fr m rance reared in ri 5 . Y w, o F , Sy a .

6. ell w satinés coz inferi r reared in Pi Y o ( y), o , edmont.

7 . ell wmuscardines chr salis dried u ea o Y o ( y p). r red in Piedmnt. I ndian Silk Culture. 43

l ul in e l w d b ared dmn . Y o , o e, re Pie o t hi mAdrian le in edmn te fr reared Pi t. W , o op , o hit uscardiné r n e fromAdri o le m s rea in Pi mo t. W , an p , , ed ed

hite fr m a an reared in iedmnt. W , o J p , P o h ite from seed laid in tal r in i W , Japan, I y, eared P edmont. G m Pi n reen l ns in edm t. s a l cocoo , reared o i mn Green lar c c ns reared P ed t. ge o oo , in o

Green inferi r rusted B ouillés reared in Piedmn t o ( ), o .

Green d ub in iedmnt. , o le, reared P o

Green r ed in Friouli. , white cross, ear

ell w ss reared in Friouli. Y o , white cro , in Friouli ell ss reared . Y ow, green cro , ell w - i rced ns r i Y ow and h ite p e cocoo , eared in Fr ouli. n fr R ma na Good cocoo s, om o g . ALPHAB ETI CAL L I ST OF PLACES IN B RI TI SH I NDI A WHE RE I L I D E D A T RE S K S PRO UC OR MANUF C U D.

0 . (continued )

Adoni (M ad. ) h am wr B h o a ur en . W C ( g p , B g ) A ra . . g (N P. ) ate ntral n dia . h an e ri ( nd re St , e I ) b C I o C Ahmeda ad (B om. ) Chutia Nagpur (Be nj . )

Almora . . . (N W P ) h in l M ad e ut ( .) mi C g p A r tsa r (Punj . ) Chittag on g (Be ng ) nd n n A ijo (Puj . ) Cossirnb oz o r (Ben g . ) Arc t N o ( . W . P. ) Cuddalore (Mad ) mi Ma d A ( . ) C atch (B om. ) Arrah n (Be g .) Cuttach (Beng . )

Auran ab ad iz am. g (N ) D .

Ava en . (B g ) Dacca (Ben g . )

rh . Az ama . g (N W Darjeeling (Beng ) n Darra g (A . )

B .

n Bagra (Be g . ) a hara ur un B p (P j .)

h r . a . lia h w u n D (C I ) a alp r (Puj. ) Dh ar r B o wa m. B alasor ( ) (Ben g .) Dina ur ( eng ) Bamm p B

ina ur en . B an o en D jp (B g ) co p (B g . ) an alore M s B g ( y .)

B auk ura (Beng . ) m u French Rocks (Mys.) ara b a ttac on . B (C k, B g ) t ah h B en Fa w (B e ar, g ard a an B o n . B , g ) Barh ampur (Beng ) h n u ar a r . B p (C P. ) lam o Ga p re. aroda o rn . B (B a G ya (B eng . ) e har en B (B g .) ha e G tal (B ng . ) B ek anir iri G di (Beng . ) l o Be g aum(B m. ) G al ara A. ll o p ( ) Be ary (Mad . ) GO inalh u n r . p p r (Ba kua, B ong ) n a N res . ( . W. P ) Gorak h ore (N. W. P. ) ggD al e G a r o e atpB m. h d j ( ) an ara . P ) Gurda re un g u po (P j.) l r n . p g w ndi G alior (Sci a). B hii o m B . ) ‘fi i a ur om B j p (B .) B r h e i t um(B ng . ) Haz arib agh ish n u B ap r (B eng . ) Hill Ti perah Bomb aY Hugli (gong ) with Ho urah

roac h B om. H b dera a d Deccan Niz am. B ( ) y ( , ) B al r aso e n . H derab ad ind rn . (B g ) y (S , Bo )

B a rs . (0. I ) B urma .

0 .

Calcutta (B eng . ) mb a B o Ca y ( m.) Cashmere Ch am tn apa a (Mys. ) h amaner anc ien t nowin ruins C p ( , , B orn. )

Ch amapatna (Mys. )

PLATE II .

2. FIG. Fro . 1 .

ri Female . mri or mulb err feedin Bomb yx mo ( ) B o mb yx o , y g ale silkworm(M ).

m Larva of B omb yx ori.

l ion 243 . No . in Co lect ,

FI G. 5. Fro . 4.

l Cocoon of B omb yx fortun atus Cocoon of Bomb yx mori reared in Ita y

from a an seed . fromBen gal . J p

No n olle tion 27 0 mm. . i C c in Co llection 352. , No . , P LATE III.

FIG. 1 .

An h eraea mlitta or ussur le t y T moth (Ma ).

i l c i 582 No . in En oml 61 a . ol e t on . t o No. n C , ogical List,

FIG. 2.

mlitta or ussur o emal A nth ersea y T mth (F e).

n Collection 582. No . in Entomol ical List 51 h No . i , og , . A E I PL T V.

a f An th eraea mlitta or ussur sil w rm Larv o y T k o .

No . in Collection. 245 . s Tussur cocoon .

No . in Collection, 264.

FI G. 2.

t n l 8 in i Tmeur cocoon cu Ope to sh o w th e ch rysa s de .

N o in Collect ion , 264.

PLATE VI I .

Fro. 1 .

Larva of Anthermmis or An thems Assama or Muga silkworm.

Fro 2.

Muga cocoon .

on 4 1 . No. in Collecti , 3 L P ATE V I II .

A n tnerzea Ro lei l y (Fema e ) .

Anth eraea Fri th n (Male) .

No . in Collection 582. No . in En tomolo ical i , g L st, 53a .

PLATE X .

A A l M ttacus t as ( ale) .

c i n 2. i molo l List 31 a . in Colle t o , 58 No . n Ento gica , PLATE X I .

A l ttac us At as (Female).

No . i 8 tomolo ical List 3 1 b . in Collect on, 5 2. No. in En g , I PLATE X I.

Fro . 1 .

Larva of Attacus Atlas or Atlas silkworm.

Fro . 2.

Cocoon of Attacus Atlas.

o E tomolo l List 33a . No . in llection 82. N . in n ica Co , 5 g , PLATE XII I .

m. i F .

Cricula trifen estrata (Male).

8 Entomolo ical List 44a. No. in Collection , 5 2. No . in g ,

F . 2 ro .

Cricula trifenestrata emal (F e).

No . in Collection 582. No . in En tomolo ic l Li t 4 r , g a s , d .

i Larva of Cr oula trifenestrata.

No . in Collection, 247 .

F 4 ro . .

oco n ofC ricula trifene C o strata .

No . in ollectio 4 4 C n , 3 and 43 5 .

P A E X L T V.

len le Actias se e (Fema ).

8 in molo i l se 8 No . in Collection , 5 2. No. Ento g ca Ca , 3 h . LA E VI P T X .

A Ma nth erwa Helferi ( le).

l F l Caligula Sima ( ema e) . A PL TE XVII. F ro . 1 .

n e n A th raea per yi (Male).

2. Fro .

An th erma ern i emale p y (F ).

Fro . 3 .

oc on of Anth eraea ern i C o p y . A E I PL T XVII .

Fr o . 1 .

P us c nthia Mal hilosamia or Attac y ( e) . o i n tomolo ical List 0 N . n Collection , 582. No . i E n g , 3 a .

Philosamia or Attacus c n th y ia (Female) .

No . in Co llection 582. No . in Entomolo ical i , g L st, 3 0h . A E X I PL T X .

Fro . l .

l or At c nt Larva of Phi osamia tacus y hia.

Fr . o . 2

Cocoon of P hilosamia or Attacus cynth ia.

Ne ria B o utton i.

No . in Collection 582 No . in Entomolo st 56 , . gical Li , a . PLATE XX .

1 . Fro .

Saturnia carpini (Male).

ale Saturn ia carpini (Fem ) .

Fro . 3 .

Saturnia Grotei (Female) . PLATE XXI.

Fro . 1 .

L a atin a a e oep k k (M l ).

Fr 2 o . .

L oepa katinka (Female).

Fro. 3 .

Larva of Loepa katinka.

PLATE XXIII .

Th e sh ad arts sh w th e districts in wh ed p o ich the Tussur moth h as b een found. A E XI PL T X V.

‘ l he sh aded parts show the districts in wh ich the Eria mo th ( Attacus ri cini) has b een

found . PLATE X XV.

Th e shaded parts showthe districts in which th e Mung a or Muga moth (Anthemopsis or Anthen ea Assama h b e ) as e n found. PLATE XXVI .

Th e shaded parts showth e districts in wh ich th e Atlas moth (Attacus Atlas) h as b een f ound. A x vr PL TE x r.

Th e shaded portion of Bengal indicates th e position of the districts where th sil - u e k of th e mulb erry feeding silkwormis prod ced. PLATE XXVIII .

1 Fro . 2. FIG. .

mmrce S il of mb x mri or sil of c e . il of mb x m ri sh win trans erse k Bo y o , k o S k Bo y o , o g v n sectio s. F 3 ro. . Fro . 4.

il of Anth mlit u ur il il of Anth eraea mlitta or ussur sil S k eraea y ta or T ss s k . S k y T k, n fi r sh owi g b ets and transverse sections.

Fr Fro . 6. o. 5.

Sil of Antherwo sis o An f reeo or A k p , r th eraea Silk o Anthe psis ntherwa Assama or Mu l i a s lk e rn . , g . p y A E PL T XXIX .

Fro . l . Fro. 2.

i At cus cini Silk of Actias selen e . Silk of Ph ilosama or ta ri E or ria silk.

F 3 Fro ro. . . 4.

o t cus Atlas f ricula trifen estrata . Silk f A ta . Silk o C

. 6. Fro . 5 . Fro

ilk of A a - Si f nth eraaa ma mai. l o aturnia S y k S carpini.

E P LAT XXXI .

Sh r b uta sal tree on th e lea es o f wh ich th e ussur sil wormfee o es ro s ( ), v T k ds. A E V PL T XXXI .

Ricinus communis on wh ich the Eria sil worm Ph ilosamia or Attac us ric ini fee ds , k , , PLATE XXXV .

h ex l on hi h the sil rm Att cus c n ia feeds. Ailant us ce sa, w c kwo , a y th , PLATE XXXVI

hus l ul n whi h th e sil w rmAttacus c n thia feeds. Ailant g and osa, o c k o , y , P A E X L T X XVII .

Morus alb a th e Mulb err on wh i h feeds th e il w rmwh ich r duces the sil of ( y), c s k o p o k c commer e. PLATE XXXVIII . F l Fro 2 ro . . . .

mb x mori Mal h r li t M l e An t e a m t a e . Bo y ( ) . ae y a ( )

F ro . 3 . Fro . 4.

l An h r a l t a l Attacus ric in i Ma e . t e m my i t (Fema e). ( ) F 6 Fro . 5 . ro . .

Attac us Atlas M ale . Attacus cy nth ia (Male ). ( )

Scales fromWin g s mag n ified 1 40 diameters. PL ATE XXX IX .

T wo examles of ussur o n ussur emb r ider b th e ee Emb r ider S cie t p T T o y y L k o y o y , k Th e d i n dian the u er on e is a fa ourite b order f rm f Lee . es g ns are I , pp v o o the lotus con n ti n alis d th e lo wer is an excellen t an d artistic dia er treatmen t ve o e , p .

PLATE XL I .

n ute nsils mech an ical drawin scale 1 in Tray a d ; g , ch to

th e foot . P LA E X T LII .

b Cocoon ladle for asin : sca le 4of the real siz e . PLA E T XLIII .

rushes for th e b a ta e s le of t e B t g ; ca 5 h real siz e .

sed for lle th e ter d le o n th r d and for U co cting ou an unreelab C coo ea s, find h e l b le nds ing t ree a e . ro a n reelin mach in e wil E u pe n Cocoo g ,

RETURN TO th e c irc ulation de sk o f any

Unive rsity of Callio mla Lib rary or to th e NORTHERN REGIONAL LIB RARY FACILITY 4 ch m Flald St t B ldg . 00, Ri ond a ion Unive rsity of Califo rnla m CA 9 4804-469 8 Ri ch ond ,

ALL B OOKS MAY B E RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 2-month loans may b e re newed b y calling (41 5) 642-67 53 1 -yaar loans may b e recharg ed b y b ring lng b ooks to NRLF Re newals and recharg e s may b e made 4 days prior to due date

DUE AS STAMPED B ELOW