ISSUE #43 FEBRUARY 19, 2021

A Publication of WWD

Hitting Refresh Virtual or no, as awards season approaches, Tinseltown derms and plastic surgeons report they're busier than ever with clients clamoring to look like Gigi Hadid and other A-listers. For more, see pages 10 and 11. PLUS: Nicolas Hieronimus, L’Oréal’s incoming CEO, on his strategic vision for Day One. COLLAGE BY JILLIAN SOLLAZZO mask's virality. Jonas as instrumental to driving the Margot Robbie and Priyanka Chopra from Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Alexandrides said. He counted posts share the results [on social media],” were willing to take photos and Instagram. prior. sales, up97percentfromtheyear hitting 1.1 millionpoundsin2020 brand's categories intheU.S. market, have outofallthe grownthemost its launchin2018. Masks ingeneral U.S., selling20millionunitssince the brand's maskinthe bestselling Facesaid theRoseGold Mask is surgeon andcofounderof111Skin, Spate. “rose gold facemasks,” accordingto 111Skin appearingintopsearchesfor with rose gold facemaskproducts, ingoldan increaseininterest and to continuegrow. percent since last year — and expected face masks” are also up — by 42.2 Spate data. Searches for “rose gold year,76.8 percentlast accordingto experiencing an overall increase of at the beginning of the pandemic, up socialmediawithgold facemasks. Skin careenthusiasts THE BUZZ “Initially, itwasorganic—people on Buzz behindthemaskstarted Dr. Yannis plastic Alexandrides, Brands suchas111Skinareseeing Searches for“gold facemask”spiked Gold Face Masks Drive Buzz — and Sales resulting in a sales boost for brands. for boost sales a in resulting Gold face masks are driving organic social media content, content, media social organic driving are masks face Gold

are lighting “We attribute thissuccess toour ranking,” hesaidinastatement. ournumber-fivesku achieved multiplesandit hasalready several Peau BeautéU.S. de vicepresidentofClé executive since itslaunch,saidAlessioRossi, in themonth sales expectations Vitality Mask, $295,hasexceeded “hugely popular,” Zamanisaid. Treatment, pricedat $625,hasbeen mask or$106forapackoffive. Treatment Mask ispricedat $25per while theHydra-Bright Eye Golden single maskor$130forapackoffive, Treatment Mask for$30a retails Hydra-Liftacid. The Golden ingredients suchashyaluronic biodegradable, withhydrating active Zamani said. than ever because they're so isolated,” feel a part of society, even more so and people want to contribute and Instagram. brand's gold-toned facemaskson sharing images ofthe customers coronavirus pandemic, with in e-commercesalesduringthe company hasgrown200percent the founderofMZSkin,saidher surgeon and based oculoplastic “We oursalesplanby exceeded dePeauClé Beauté's Precious Gold Light-TherapyThe Facial Golden MZ Skin's facemasksare “We live in an Instagram moment Dr. MaryamZamani,aLondon- The Thread: The

BY ALEXA TIETJEN TIETJEN ALEXA

24-karat gold antioxidant infusion.” deliversthankstoitsunique product thatand, ofcourse,thebenefits the care treatments duringthistime inat-home, interest self- customers’ and see the mask actually working.”and seethemask actually want toseetheflecksonyour skin texture,” shecontinued.“Consumers all ofourcontentshowsoff thegold generated contentaswecan,and said. Grewal the mask,”content ofpeopletrying that toget organic experts of industry celebrities, influencersandabunch Mask tobe thebrand's heroproduct. Perfection22anticipates theGold FounderGoodman. NishaGrewal at Neiman Marcus andBergdorf gold facemask,later thismonth two skus,oneofwhichisa new of at fourstars. least witharating forproducts is reserved beautyMost-Loved” category, which inthe“Customer'sof 12,arelisted Under Eye Patches, fora pack $12.99 of 20,andGrace &Stella's Gold Collagen Eye Pads, forapack $12.99 Permotary Store's 24KGel Gold perpack.OnAmazonBeauty,$2.99 of January at Target andretail for which releasedat thebeginning Honey Hydrogel Under Eye Masks, percent increaseinsalesofitsMoney “We wanttouseasmuchuser- “We’re sendingittoquiteafew Ambari Beauty willsoonlaunch Holler andGlowhasseena100 AND JAMES MANSO JAMES

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Nicolas Hieronimus “The regional differences also show true potential,” said Hieronimus, citing as an example Asia, where L’Oréal has 11 percent market share, and Western Europe, where it ranges from 16 percent to 30 percent. “My three regional priorities will be pursing the Chinese momentum, boosting growth in the U.S.A. and accelerating in the emerging markets, where the rapid digitalization and the rise of e-commerce will give us easier access to this pool of aspiring consumers,” he said. Product category-wise, Hieronimus’ first priority will be skin care. “It is the biggest and most dynamic beauty category, at the crossroads of all trends, a high added-value category, driven by science and performance, where our R&I gives us the upper hand, as proven this year,” he said. “We will grow valorized hair care and color, both in the professional and mass worlds,” continued Hieronimus. “Our global leadership in fragrance puts us in the best position to benefit from these categories’ acceleration in China.” He is confident and ambitious about makeup, too, calling it the most cyclical category, down now but L’Oréal’s Next CEO Shares Vision due to rebound. “And we will lead it,” said Nicolas Hieronimus’ strategy for the group is shaped around three words: Hieronimus. “The third driver of continuity, confidence and ambition. BY JENNIFER WEIL my ambition is e-commerce, which will continue to be a strong growth PARIS — A page in L’Oréal’s history for the world of tomorrow, as L’Oréal duo, and our relationship will engine. We are preparing for a time began to turn during the group’s has anticipated all fundamental shifts continue to evolve on different terms, when e-commerce may represent 50 financial analyst meeting transmitted to win in the 21st century. but in the same spirit of proximity. percent of our business, split between from company headquarters in the “Our group is now ready to make “I have a lot of confidence for the direct-to-consumer, e-retailers and Paris suburbs of Clichy on Feb. 12. miracles under the leadership of a future, which relies, on the one hand, pure players, which will scale social Jean-Paul Agon, L’Oréal chairman new captain,” said Agon, who added on the power of the L’Oréal model,” commerce as a new way to reach and chief executive officer, presided he is “extremely happy and serene” to he added. “And on the other hand, on and engage our consumers [and] will over the virtual conference, seated in be handing the helm to Hieronimus. the potential of the beauty market. invest in developing loyalty to increase between Christophe Babule, executive “I have full confidence in him,” said “I’m extremely confident in the the lifetime value of our consumers. vice president and group chief financial Agon. “Nicolas and I have known resilience and the power of the “I am very ambitious for the officer, and Nicolas Hieronimus, deputy each other for 30 years and trust unique L’Oréal model, a model that future, and it begins in 2021,” said CEO in charge of divisions. each other completely.” ensured our performance in 2019, Hieronimus, adding the group The gathering focused not just on Hieronimus, he said, has played a our best in 15 years on a dynamic remains cautious for the first half discussions about L’Oréal’s strong key role by Agon’s side as deputy CEO. market, but also in 2020 with a of 2021, but that the beauty market 2020 results, released the prior “I have the deepest conviction that very solid result in the middle of should return to growth after being evening, but also on the upcoming he is the best to lead our beautiful the biggest global storm of the down an estimated 8 percent in 2020. CEO succession, with Hieronimus company in the years to come,” said last 75 years,” said Hieronimus. “The engines that allowed us to speaking in depth about his strategic Agon. “He will drive L’Oréal to new “[It’s a] model that has been overperform in 2020 will remain in vision for the world's biggest beauty heights in full continuity of our strategy constantly evolving over the years 2021, and all of our divisions will rely on company for the first time. and values, while also reinventing the in a permanent revolution whilst a strong plan of innovations,” he said. Hieronimus, as previously group and adapting it to the major remaining true to its roots.” Hieronimus believes L’Oréal can reported, is to become L’Oréal’s CEO challenges of our future world.” The executive said he’s extremely outperform the market again in 2021 on May 1, after which time Agon will For his part, Hieronimus shared confident about the beauty market’s and — depending on the pandemic’s remain as chairman. his vision for L’Oréal, which he resilience and long-term potential, evolution — deliver a year of sales During the meeting, Agon gave shaped around the words: continuity, and shared his vision for L’Oréal over and profit growth. an overview of how the company is confidence and ambition. the next decade. “I have the ambition to shape beginning the year, while Hieronimus “Continuity” applies to the CEO “Top-line growth and beating L’Oréal as a company of the future, shared his vision of L’Oréal’s future. transition. Hieronimus said he the market will always be my a global leader with strong values, “As I prepare to pass the baton, and Agon have built up a close priorities,” said Hieronimus. “This committed to sustainability, to I am thrilled to see the strength of relationship and partnership over the top-line growth and virtuous P&L growing while respecting planetary our unique business model that has past eight years. management will allow [for] regular boundaries, but also to making proven both its effectiveness and Hieronimus explained that in his increases in profitability.” beauty play its role toward ability to develop our leadership roles as head of L’Oréal’s selective He explained L’Oréal’s first priority humanity — a role of inclusion, a and create value in usual times, and divisions and deputy CEO, he’s has always been to beat the market, role of harmony, of respect and an its capacity to resist exceptionally been involved in each of the group’s and that there remains a lot of encouragement of diversity and well in terms of market share and transformational decisions. market share to be had. Even as the differences,” he said. “With the profitability in times of crisis,” said “This transition could not largest beauty maker, the group’s strength and passion of the L’Oréal Agon. “I am totally confident, because have been better prepared,” said market share still is only around 13 teams, I want to create the beauty this business model is perfectly suited Hieronimus. “We make an efficient percent globally. that moves the world.” Give your sales a giddy up. Say “Yeehaw!” to more sales, more often with Klarna.

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shoppers picking up Paula's Choice Paula's Choice Launches With hero products in store, where they will be displayed on Sephora's The d-to-c brand continues to acquire customers online. BY ALLISON COLLINS Skin Care Favorites wall, and then continuing to branch further into PAULA'S CHOICE IS launching the brand via the larger online with Sephora. assortment. She described the This is the first major beauty sales Paula's Choice expects from retail expansion for the direct-to- the Sephora launch as “nominal” consumer brand, which launched compared to the brand's continued in 1995. Paula's Choice was founded momentum online. by Paula Begoun, an early advocate “The really great thing about d-to-c, for transparency in beauty product working digital, is you have a very formulations and education around clear sense of the potential market personal care ingredients. and you can identify really high- Paula's Choice will launch online potential audiences of people who with Sephora in February with 27 haven't been introduced to the brand products. The brand is already in a yet,” Kussman said. “That gives you small number of Nordstrom doors, and this idea of runway, and we know that the Sephora rollout is its first major there's so much more ahead there.” move into beauty retail, said chief Right now, Paula's Choice has a big marketing officer Erika Kussmann. U.S. operation, but an even bigger In April, the brand will launch international reach — Kussman said in all of Sephora's 455 U.S. stores slightly more than 50 percent of the with six hero products: 2% BHA brand's sales come from international Liquid Exfoliant, $29.50; C15 Super markets, with strength in Europe Booster, $49; Clinical 1% Retinol and Asia. The business now owns Treatment, $58; Clinical Niacinamide its European and Korea operations, Paula's Choice skin care is 20% Treatment, $48; Resist Youth- launching with Sephora. which Kussman said are growing. Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF Paula's Choice is backed by private 50, $33; and 25% AHA + 2% BHA and in the U.S.” “We're approaching [the Sephora equity firm TA Associates, which Exfoliant Peel, $39. Kussmann said that Paula's Choice launch] strategically where we're invested in the business in 2016, and “It is our first full chain launch has seen “exponential growth” over the thinking about the awareness and the Bertram Capital. At the time of the with a major retailer,” Kussmann past few years. Customer acquisition trial that launching in a major retailer, TA deal, the company was said to said. “We are primarily a d-to-c was up three times, and sales doubled, what that confers,” Kussmann said. “It have about $70 million in net sales. brand, we have been from the very she said. The brand has also done well just gives such an opportunity for the Industry sources estimated that start. We're the largest, we believe, on social media, garnering a following customer to learn and discover.” Paula's Choice will reach about skin care d-to-c brand in the world on Reddit and on TikTok. Kussmann said she could see $300 million in sales for 2021.

Granado is Brazil's oldest Taxes, Red Tape Squeeze cosmetics company. Brazilian Beauty Exporters As exports rise, Brazil's beauty producers are looking to the government to finally ease onerous taxes. BY IVAN CASTANO

MEXICO CITY — “We need a tax was mostly the result of a slumping reform in our country and we are real against the U.S. dollar, accentuated fighting very hard for that,” asserted by the pandemic’s economic hit on Ricardo de Nobrega, international Latin America’s biggest economy. trade manager at Brazilian top Still, the fact that foreign beauty trade lobby Abihpec, which is shipments outpaced imports for the largely to the high operating costs. Meanwhile, the local market pressuring Brasília to cut taxes and first time in years is encouraging the There is a flicker of light at the end continues to struggle with weak sales, slash bureaucracy to enable exports industry to pressure the government of the tunnel, however. prompting brands to roll out new to flourish. of Jair Bolsonaro to push through Brazil recently held Congressional products to win consumers’ hearts. “We don’t have a problem with its campaign promise and overhaul elections, boosting hopes that Some of those included skin innovation. In fact, the industry Brazil’s “insane” tax system. This in Bolsonaro’s troubled reform care masks, which Nobrega said launched 7,000 products last year. addition to streamlining labor and process will gain traction in coming soared 103 percent last year as Our problem is our internal and labor curbing export red tape that means months. While the linchpin of the “people spent more time at home, costs and the fact that we are super cargo often sits at ports for too package — the pension overhaul — engaged in self-care rituals.” Body taxed. We pay taxes in every step of the long. “We need to reduce our time was completed, the tax, labor and treatments, including exfoliators, and production process, from raw materials to export merchandise to just a few administrative agendas remain hair products also showed strong to final products in 27 different states hours compared to three to five days stalled, according to analysts. increases, as did hand sanitizers, and at an average of 18 percent.” depending on the port,” Nobrega said. Nobrega said exports will likely rise which soared over 1,000 percent. Nobrega’s comments to WWD Beauty All of these expenses, dubbed the this year, though January numbers Back to exports, soaps, hair products Inc come as the country’s beauty “Brazilian cost,” leave producers and so far don’t show a repeat of 2020’s and deodorants ruled the roost, exports rose 1.9 percent to $609 million brands with little ability to lower prices surplus. Much, of course, will depend increasing 22 percent, 21 percent and last year as it sent its key hair products, to keep products competitive, he said, on the performance of the real, which 11 percent respectively, fueled by sales skin care and deodorants to 174 adding that the cosmetics and toiletries may strengthen against the greenback to Argentina, Mexico, Chile, Colombia countries. The results marked the first sector has shrunk compared to other if Brazil’s economy grows in line with and Paraguay. Oral products, trade surplus in 10 years, though that industries such as agribusiness, due the government’s 3.5 percent forecast. meanwhile, surged 10 percent. YOUCDSDRVD SM@RTSKINB@RD BHOIBDSӪMINUS @LLTHDHYPDҼ ԞSM@RT ԞS@ED ԞDEEDBTIVD ԞER@FR@NBDӥERDD ԞBRUDLTYӥERDD NEWS FEED 8 FEBRUARY 19, 2021

"We wanted to bring joy and comfort Scent for Good's to these otherwise anxiety-ridden two debut Scent for Good Looks products are a experiences." hand sanitizer and The sisters, who are twins, also mask spray, priced $35 and $45, believe that, even as coronavirus To Transform Medical respectively. vaccines become more accessible, consumers will continue to wear Environments face masks and sanitize their hands The industry veterans behind 12.29 are now regularly. "Let's hope at some point scenting hand sanitizer, face masks and hospital that I can put my masks away, and that we can all get back to wearing spaces. BY JAMES MANSO makeup normally, but hand sanitizer existed before, and it will continue OLFACTIVE BRANDING a fragrance designer at Coty Beauty to exist afterward," Dawn Goldworm aficionados Dawn and Samantha International, wanted to find a way to said. Goldworm are bringing their noses to negate the unpleasant odors found in "It's just about putting the two the medical space. hospitals. pieces of the brand together to create The founders of 12.29 are scenting While Goldworm was more often more moments of joy during health the mundane — and medicinal — creating scents for Nike and Virgin care, whether you're experiencing with their latest venture, Scent for pre-pandemic, she wanted to parlay it in your face, or whether you're and is scented with sandalwood, Good. The company has two prongs: her skills back into personal care. experiencing it on the go or at home," bergamot, lemon, iris flower and it has created an environmental "We can really work with emotion Samantha Goldworm said. tonka bean. The Inner Peace Mask fragrance for hospitals, and will also to make people feel better about The brand is launching on its own Spray is scented with amber and be selling a scented hand sanitizer their lives," Goldworm said. "Why website, and considering broader musk and is intended to be sprayed and mask spray for $35 and $45, shouldn't we do it when it really retail partners. "We want to make on the outside of a face mask. respectively. Industry sources matters?" sure that the first wholesale account Philanthropy is at the heart of the estimate the direct-to-consumer To that end, Goldworm created a we go into shares our values of care brand. An undisclosed portion of the products could reach $300,000 in fragrance to mask unpleasant odors compassion in the community, and profits will be donated to the Lower retail sales for its first 12 months, such as bleach. She developed an really align with them to launch Eastside Girls Club, "because young although the brand declined to accord meant to hide the olfactory it through their distribution," said girls have been disproportionately comment on the estimate. triggers associated with hospitals to Dawn Goldworm. affected by COVID-19," Goldworm The idea for the brand came from create a sense of comfort, she said. The brand's hand sanitizer, called said. "On the b-to-b side, we have also the pandemic-sized white space Despite the scent's masking power, Mother Earth, is dermatologist- filed a 501(c)(3), which will act as a caused by the emphasis on health and it's disarmingly neutral. "The basis approved for sensitive skin, scholarship for the federally funded sanitation. Dawn Goldworm, who was is for it to feel like someone just features 60 percent ethyl alcohol in hospitals that do not have the money trained as a nose during her time as opened the window," Goldworm said. accordance with FDA guidelines, for these types of initiatives."

Celebrity Hairstylist Chris Appleton Chris Appleton Releases First Product, Money It's a vegan hair mask made for all hair types, said Appleton, who works with the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Ariana Grande, Dua Lipa and Katy Perry. BY RYMA CHIKHOUNE

MONEY — it’s the name of Chris lot of products to create a look, but I'm Appleton’s first product: a vegan hair particular about what products I use mask. and also the effects it has on the hair Money, “It’s money in an emotional value,” during and after,” said Appleton. The priced at $45, will be said the celebrity hairstylist. “You 37-year-old, originally from England, available at know when you've had that blowout, has a growing following of his own Colorwow- hair.com on you feel great about yourself, you walk with 1.6 million Instagram followers. Feb. 23. out the door and everyone's looking at “I love working with Chris, because you? It’s that inner confidence.” he really knows what he's talking with the use of these ingredients.” Appleton certainly knows a thing about when it comes to product,” said Working with Color Wow’s in-house or two about creating a memorable Federici. “He's been working with chemist, Dr. Joe Cincotta, Appleton moment with a look, working with us over the last few years. Whenever utilizes blue sea kale, which is rich I'm proud that we've captured that high-profile clients that include we've been working on any kind of in sulphur (binding with damaged weightless essence." Jennifer Lopez (he went viral new formula, we get Chris' input, keratin for strengthening) and The product, $45, will first be touching up her curls in a behind- which has been really valuable. And provides antioxidants; hydrolyzed available at Colorwowhair.com on the-scenes video at last year’s Super I like the collaboration because what vegetable protein complex, which Feb. 23 before launching at Sephora. Bowl), Ariana Grande (giving her that he does with hair is magical.” works to strengthen and repair, and a com and in stores in March. snatched pony), Dua Lipa, Katy Perry “This really is like a different feel,” sea kelp and algae blend of minerals, “Sephora is thrilled to partner with and Kim Kardashian West. Appleton said of the formulation vitamins and carbohydrates that gives Color Wow” said Jennifer Lucchese, vice The launch is a partnership with behind “Money.” “It was important hair moisture. The result is a product president of hair care merchandising Color Wow. While Appleton has that it was massively inclusive for that’s nourishing for both natural and at Sephora, in a statement. “With its collaborated with the hair care brand every hair texture, every hair type. colored hair, works for all hair types, powerful, award-winning formulations, and its creator, founder and chief It’s not just about the slickness of the fine, thin, frizzy and coarse, and yet backed by renowned beauty chemists executive officer Gail Federici (the hair or the shine. It’s about having leaves hair feeling “weightless” in and celebrity hairstylist Chris Appleton, John Frieda alum), as an adviser in hair that’s easy to style after. It long- feel, said Appleton. Color Wow is disrupting the category his role as global creative director, this term reduces the breakage. It makes “That was missing on the market,” by helping clients solve their most product marks his own official release. hair more hydrated. Over time, the he continued. “And it's really difficult frustrating hair problems and achieve “I’m the type of hairstylist that uses a hair becomes shinier and stronger to do that with masks. That's why results.” Stella Rising is the leading marketing and media agency for rising star brands.

Experts at growing strong beauty brands and driving conversion at every touchpoint · Amazon and marketplace · DTC and e-retailer · Brick and mortar

www.stellarising.com DEEP DIVE 10 FEBRUARY 19, 2021

Andra Day Kate Hudson Viola Davis Michelle Pfeifer

likes of Jennifer Aniston, Tracee Ellis Ross and Zendaya — were in full glam. At the Globes, which is expected to be a similar scenario (a mix of in-person cameos and remote live appearances with Tina Fey and Amy Poehler hosting from opposite coasts in Los Angeles and New York), the stars will likely opt for the same. When getting ready, whether a show is virtual or not, the beauty prep starts weeks, sometimes months, earlier. This year is no exception. Aesthetician Joanna Vargas — facialist to Rachel Weisz, Julianne

Moore, Naomi Watts and Sofia eyfried by Rob Latour; Hudson Chelsea Lauren Coppola — has been busy providing her “twilight facial,” she said. Priced at $1,200, the 90-minute treatment improves skin tone, texture and tightness by combining Vargas’ patented Revitalight LED Bed with

Carey Mulligan Olivia Colman Amanda Seyfried radiofrequency (a nonsurgical method of tightening skin) and microneedling (tiny needles that prick skin to AWARDS SEASON PREP IS in produce more collagen and elastin). full swing — even amid the pandemic. She’s also been using a hands-free How Celebrities Dr. Harold Lancer of Lancer radiofrequency device called Evoke. Dermatology in Beverly Hills has “Those two treatments have been seen 16 celebrity clients so far for pretty much nonstop for me through Are Preparing the upcoming awards season, which the fall and into this new year, kicks off with the 78th Golden Globe because they produce the biggest Awards on Feb. 28. results for my clients,” said Vargas, “They’re in chronic maintenance who has salons in L.A. and New York. For the Virtual mode,” Lancer, who typically sees With the lack of in-person events around 20 clients per award show, and certain Hollywood productions said of the Hollywood crowd. on hiatus, actors have more Awards Shows His clientele includes Margot Robbie, downtime these days, she added, As Hollywood’s leading actresses get ready for a season Michelle Williams, Beyoncé, which has led to an uptick in services. Jennifer Lopez and Victoria Beckham. “Doing a microneedling treatment of virtual awards shows, Beauty Inc looks at today’s go-to Prior to the Emmys in September, might have been tricky when you’re treatments, procedures and devices. which was the first of Hollywood's going from event to event and thing BY RYMA CHIKHOUNE major ceremonies to have a virtual to thing, but since there’s nothing production, it was unclear whether going on, it’s like, ‘Hey let’s take the stars would dress up or down for advantage of this time and do a few the show considering the tone of the microneedling sessions to really country, impact of the health crisis get the elasticity up and your skin and the Black Lives Matter movement. looking really perfect for when you There was even speculation that the start shooting or for awards season.’” nominees would appear in pajamas, Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-

but in the end, most — including the certified dermatologist in New York,„ Davis photograph by Andreas Branch; Mulligan Michael Buckner; Pfeiffer Charles Sykes; Coleman, Day Andrew H. Walker; S DEEP DIVE 11 FEBRUARY 19, 2021

Any skin type can use it. And you can that as a result, combined with the maybe they gained a little weight during use it the day of an event.” negative impact of social media and this COVID-19 period and so liposuction According to the American Society selfie culture on self-esteem and self- was off the charts as far as demand.” Key of Plastic Surgeons, there were 18.1 image, they’re seeing more clients and Dermatologists and plastic surgeons million cosmetic procedures in are busier than ever. noted the rise of post-procedure devices. Takeaways 2019, and of those, 16.3 million were That is certainly the case for For example, after stomach liposuction, minimally invasive, up 2 percent from Dr. Gabriel Chiu, a Beverly Hills- clients are now using tools like 1. High-profile red carpet 2018. Type A, more based board-certified plastic and EMSculpt, a body-contouring treatment events IRL are still not commonly known as Botox, is the most reconstructive surgeon. that causes muscle contractions. happening, but for Hollywood’s A-listers, the clamor for popular treatment in the category with “I’m seeing double or triple what I “It’s to get defined ab muscles,” said cosmetic services is as strong 7.7 million, up 4 percent from 2018, usually see at the same given time for Chiu. “It’s a shortcut to having to as ever. followed by soft tissue fillers at 2.7 the year, and instead of having a wish train with a trainer for months.” million, up 1 percent from 2018. list of things that they want to chip “That is a domain that is actually 2. Stars are increasingly For the last 12 to 18 months, away at, they are giving me a bucket improving and changing quite looking for subtle tweaks — however, there’s been less emphasis list,” he said. rapidly,” said Idriss of body-tightening noninvasive contouring, say, or texture improving lasers on injectables — neuromodulators “People want it all,” he continued. and muscle-contraction devices. “I — rather than injectables like like Botox and Dysport and fillers “Not only do they want it all, they want think that is an area that is intriguing neuromodulators and fillers. like Juvederm and Restylane Silk — it all at once.…It’s not that patients and exciting.” as stars look to firm and lift their want to look overdone, but more is Morpheus8, a device that combines 3. Still, Botox was the most skin, as well as unify skin color and more in terms of how much they want microneedling with radiofrequency asked about treatment in 2020 texture, said Lancer. done and how invasive they’re willing to technology using longer needles, is and two neuromodulators are “Subtle is in” with the Hollywood go, because now they have more time to another standout, since it not only expected to enter the market crowd these days, he said. recover. People are willing to push the tightens tissue but also melts fat, this year, disrupting the space by providing more immediate “They’ve become more sensitive envelope whereas before they wanted said Chiu. results. to the concept that excessive to be much more careful and make sure The most asked about treatment volumizing looks funny,” he continued. they could recover in time and that in 2020 remained Botox, according “Whether it’s because of some of the others wouldn’t notice.” to findings by the American Society has been providing her high-profile entertainment people overdoing it Celebrities now have the time to hide of Plastic Surgeons, but it’s not clients with Thermage treatment, and looking bizarre and then there’s away for a significant period of time as prominent when it comes to which helps tighten existing a rumor mill that starts, or whether as they recover from innovation. While Botox takes two collagen and stimulate new collagen just the general population has sort of procedures. weeks after treatment to show results production, and Ultherapy, a and lasts up to three to four months, nonsurgical alternative to a facelift. Dysport, available now, lasts the same And for those looking for a glow, she “I’m seeing double or triple what amount of time and takes just two to suggests a light chemical peel. I usually see at the same given time for three days to take effect after injection. “I do believe that a lot of my Two neuromodulators expected to patients who are part of that world the year, and instead of having enter the market this year may disrupt understand and subscribe to my a wish list of things that they want to chip the space, however: Daxi provides philosophy of pace yourself,” she said. results in three days and lasts up to Her clients reportedly include Mindy away at, they are giving me a bucket list.” six months, while EB-001 takes effect Kaling, Emily Ratajkowski and Ashley within 24 hours and lasts four weeks. —DR. GABRIEL CHIU Graham, among others. “It’s a slow and “That may be a game changer for steady working progress over months somebody who needs a quick fixer, like before the red carpet. Because if they refined their taste…there’s a changed “In the past, patients in that going to an award show,” said Chiu. come to me the day before…‘I want x, focus. The days of having a gallon of [Hollywood] environment would have For all experts virtual consultation y and z,’ I’m going to be like, ‘No.’ They filler injected are gone, because a gallon to wait until a hiatus in order to take are now the norm, offering a new way know that’s going to be the case. It’s of filler may last you six, 12, 18 months, care of something major,” said Chiu. of working for many. like going to the gym. You don’t go to but you look like a bloated blowfish.” The latest plastic surgery statistics “We’ve had virtual consultations the gym the week before your wedding Sculpting the face and body has report shows that the top two most every single day,” said Broumand. “It’s expecting to look like your fittest. It’s been growing in popularity with popular cosmetic surgical procedures routine. I’ve had clients in California something you build up.” A-listers, who have been using of 2019 were breast augmentation and Florida or working remotely in Every skin-care expert has his or noninvasive contouring and firming and liposuction, according to the distant places, Aspen or Europe.” her regimen for awards season prep. machines like Accent Prime. The tool American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Lancer has had around 20 per day For Melissa Haloossim, a board- is often being used under the chin or Liposuction has the number-two spot since March. certified nurse practitioner and Kim jawline, echoed the experts. at 265,209 procedures, which is up 3 “There were some people who Kardashian West's go-to specialist, “I would say eight out of 10 people percent from 2018. needed ongoing maintenance of their it’s offering a $600 “runway facial,” came in complaining about the “They are doing lipo around the Lancer Skincare or their program or which utilizes oxygen and LED jawline,” said Idriss. “The jawline had jawline to sharpen it and taking fat planning for when they come out of treatment with lasers that regenerate a resurrection in 2020 and going into into cheeks,” said Chiu. hibernation,” he said. “I had never collagen, plump and hydrate the this year. I think it’s because people “It was nonstop for eyelid surgery, done virtual. That necessity arose and skin. Meanwhile, aesthetician and were looking at themselves all day neck liposuction, even face lifts,” said now I find it indispensable.” entrepreneur Shani Darden, who’s on video at different angles that are Dr. Stafford Broumand, a board- He recently treated a high-profile known to treat Emmy Rossum, obviously not great and not flattering certified plastic surgeon in New York, celebrity in entertainment who had January Jones, Jessica Alba, Kelly and not necessarily real.” of his celebrity clients. He’s known to experienced an accidental burn on Rowland and Rosie Huntington- Experts and practitioners are calling have done work on Chrissy Teigen. the abdomen. Whiteley, has a technique that lifts it the “Zoom Boom.” The catchy “They were all trying to get that done “The person was very far away,” he and firms skin using a combination of phrase is being used to describe the to get the best look before they had said. “Virtually, on a daily basis, I was oxygen therapy, vibration therapy, LED foreseen growth of cosmetic procedures to do something in person. Or if they managing it until they came back to light and microcurrent for customized during COVID-19 due to the increased were doing something on video, they Los Angeles two days ago and then treatments, which cost $500 and up. popularity of services like Zoom. While wanted to look at good as they could.” took over manually.” “Before an event, usually it’s always stuck at home, the world turned to He’s been doing breast lifts and His office was shipping orders a peel,” said Darden. “I do get a lot of video conferencing for work meetings, tummy tucks, he added. “In Hollywood daily: “I had two staff always in office people who come in for a light peel, and for some that meant staring at their or here in New York, the stage actors, sending things to some places I’ve and my favorite one is a lactic acid own reflections on screens for hours, they now have downtime, and they never even heard of, to tell you the peel, because it’s really gentle on the magnifying any existing insecurities. could have things done that they’ve been truth…a lot of people were isolating skin. It gives you an immediate glow. Plastic surgeons nationwide have said thinking about for a while or because themselves to very bizarre places.” ■ Gently exfoliates & resurfaces b skin for a radiant glow

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didn't have all the answers. That lack of remaining authentic, and sometimes vulnerability prevented me from putting it means that you're going to grow myself out there and asking questions. slowly. The company is nine years old. At nine years old, you would What has been the impact of the have thought that we would be so pandemic and the social justice much bigger, but we really built the movement on you personally and company in a very intentional way, on the brand? and I think it was the right way. M.B.: The last year was a rollercoaster. Especially as a company The Lip Bar has a store in Detroit, that’s Black-owned, we try to operate what insights have you gained with humanity. We were dealing with from having your own brick and a pandemic, the injustices against mortar door? Black people in this country while M.B.: Our brick-and-mortar is our also running a business. Some of the testing zone. Before we launch a lifts were really political, we raised product, we put the product in there, money for When We All Vote with and we get immediate feedback. One Michelle Obama. of the most interesting things is that our marketing team will drum up How are you counteracting everything that they think about the challenges to makeup, and lips product, but we're all so close to it, specifically? What needs to be that there's so many blind spots. done to restore momentum to It also allows us to have a feeder the category? for Target and Walmart, because M.B.: We were pretty early in we’re a digital-first company, and thinking about skin care-adjacent what people are attracted to online products. In 2019, we launched our is very different from when they see very first complexion product, it's the product in person. For example, a Skin Serum . We call we just launched a tinted moisturizer it that because it's infused with that’s going to be one of our hero hyaluronic acid, so it's going to have products, and it’s so much harder that super moisturizing effect and to shop online for a complexion keep your skin looking like skin. product. Even though digital is huge When 2020 came, we were already and we’re a digital-first company, it in the midst of developing additional will never replace the full experience. skin care adjacent products. We had already developed our lip care What are your top three priorities and our Shimmer lip balms, which for the year ahead? have just a tint of color, but a lot of M.B.: First, I am focusing on giving moisture. They’re comfortable worn myself space to grow. The one thing with a mask. that 2020 taught all of us is that we People have been moving from lip were doing too much. The second Melissa Butler gloss to our Liquid Matte , thing is to make sure that we are The former stockbroker and Lip Bar founder which has been our bestseller for five really operating within our purpose or six years. People are gravitating as a company. Lastly, to make sure talks business values, her brand's expansion into towards long-wear products that that we are continuing to grow, and Walmart and the future of the Lip Bar. BY JAMES MANSO won’t smudge under your mask. Life that we have a true company culture without lipstick is a little boring, and that supports our mission from the WHEN MELISSA BUTLER Street at Barclays as a licensed the minute people are outside and inside and outside as we hire people. left her job on Wall Street to start stockbroker. If it wasn't for that job, interacting again, lipstick sales are making vegan in her I wouldn't have started my company, going to skyrocket. Even though the What advice do you give to those kitchen, she had no preconceived because that job taught me that I was lip category was hit pretty hard, we who hope to follow in notions of how to build a beauty a fish out of water. I was like, “Oh, were able to grow our business 80 your footsteps? business. “Everyone thought I was this is a male-dominated world.” In percent in 2020. M.B.: I would tell them to not be crazy for leaving my job, but I was order to really make your mark, you afraid to be exactly who they are. so determined,” she said. “I didn’t have to be unafraid, and very clear on The Lip Bar is sold in Target and A lot of people think that they have know what my path in beauty was who you are. You never know who's launching into Walmart. What to follow a very specific blueprint, going to be, but I knew that [Wall watching. A big part of who we are is does this signify for the business? “this is what I'm supposed to do in Street] wasn’t it.” showing up in an authentic way for Why now? order to be successful.” I couldn't Fast-forward nine years later, and our customers, because we are our M.B: Our goals were to be vegan, to disagree more. You should absolutely her brand, The Lip Bar, is a mainstay customers. So, I started the company, offer these easy-to-use products, work understand what's going on in at Target and launching in Walmart. making lipsticks in my kitchen while on every complexion, and more than the market, but you shouldn’t just Butler has expanded into complexion working on Wall Street. anything, to offer them to the masses. copy another model. The whole products, and even with pandemic- Why wouldn't we go there? Going point of you starting a business is induced challenges in the lip category, What do you know now that you into Walmart was a no-brainer. you think you can do things a little the brand's vibrantly hued lip products wish you knew when you were When we thought about expansion, bit differently. Don't follow the remain bestsellers and business grew starting out? or even going into Walmart, we competition too closely, because you 80 percent in 2020. Here, Butler talks M.B.: It's OK to not know thought about being able to get a are the person who's going to make about her detour into beauty, taking everything. When you're starting, really high-quality product right the impact. If you don't have that a digital-first brand into the likes of you're supposed to be the chief down the street from your house. confidence in yourself, then it will Target and Walmart, and why lips are executive officer, you're supposed to Seeing The Lip Bar evolve to take be very difficult to run a team, or poised for a comeback. have the answers. You're supposed to on these gigantic retail partners, convince the retailers and customers know how to do everything, because it means a lot to say to women that your product is worth it. What was your first job and what you're a CEO. For the first several entrepreneurs everywhere that you did you learn? years, even though I knew that I don't have to follow the rules that DIRECT CONNECT: @melissarbutler Melissa Butler: I worked on Wall was learning, I was ashamed that I they tell you to. For us, it's just about VIRTUAL Digital Forum THE PACESETTERS: TRACKING BEAUTY’S DIGITAL ACCELERATION

FEBRUARY 25

2021 SPEAKERS

TRISTAN WALKER CAMILA COELHO RYAN KANG JANE LAUDER JEAN-DENIS CEO & Founder Brazilian-American Fashion Head, Business EVP, Enterprise Marketing MARIANI Walker and Company & Beauty Entrepreneur Development & Operations & Chief Data Officer Chief Digital Officer Brands Inc. Elaluz Haus Laboratories The Estée Lauder Coty Companies

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For more information visit fairchildlive.com LAST CALL 15 FEBRUARY 19, 2021 The Making of an It Girl From the highest highs to the lowest lows, Jamie Kern Lima writes of building a billion-dollar beauty brand in her new book. BY JENNY B. FINE

Jamie Kern Lima may have sold rule of the day, the audience response Jamie Kern Lima her company, It Cosmetics, to L’Oréal was immediate — Lima not only sold for a cool $1.2 billion, but for the 6,000 units, she garnered a waitlist entrepreneur, it was always about the of 300,000. community — not the cash. From there, she was off and So it comes as no surprise that running, becoming one of the biggest after exiting the business in August success stories in business in the 2019, her first order of business was Aughts. Lima’s goal with the book writing a memoir/self-help book for is to inspire others to do the same. her legions of fans, titled, “Believe It: “I feel like we’re in this time where How to Go From Underestimated to so many people are feeling defeated Unstoppable.” and powerless and need hope and In the book, which comes out inspiration, and this book couldn’t on Feb. 22, Lima tells the story of be coming at a better time” she said, how she and her husband, Paulo, during a phone interview from her built It, weathering countless no’s home in Los Angeles. and negative responses and an “So many people need to connect, ever-dwindling bank account until not just through advice, but through they finally got their big break — a real stories and experiences they 10-minute spot on QVC, during can hang on to in times when they which Lima would be expected to sell need hope and inspiration,” she said. 6,000 units. “Most people don’t know any of the She famously used herself as a stuff that was really going on as we model, sharing barefaced photos were building the business — they juxtaposed with “afters” when she just see the fairy tale.” was wearing the product. At a time In the book, Lima shares the when aspirational beauty was the lows — the investment banker who

The cover of Jamie Kern Lima's book.

all-day free virtual event with many “Most people don’t of her famous friends, including Chrissy Metz, Jay Shetty and Spanx know any of the founder Sara Blakely, as well as give stuff that was away workbooks and other goodies to those who preorder the book really going on as on Believeit.com. Thus far, Lima said more than 40,000 people have we were building signed up for the workshop. Lima the business — is donating 100 percent of the proceeds to Feeding America and they just see the Together Rising. fairy tale.” Oprah has become a friend of Lima’s, as well as a mentor, and —JAMIE KERN LIMA when asked if she might hope to follow in her footsteps with, say, a told her she was too heavy to be a talk show one day, Lima, who was beauty role model, the emotional a newscaster before she founded It, toll that working 20-hour weeks demurred. “I’m open to whatever took on her marriage — but exults in feels right in my gut. I have always the highs. Every time she writes of known that I’m supposed to do getting a “yes,” the word is capitalized, things bigger than myself for other bolded, italicized, celebrated, and her people,” she said. “One of the biggest developing confidence in herself rises realizations I’ve had is that we’re not as steadily as the value of her company. here to compete with anyone else. It’s developing that confidence that We are here to compete with who Lima hopes to foster in readers. In we know we are born capable addition to the book, she will host an of becoming.” TIMING: CUSTOM FEMALE LEADERSHIP SURVEY: Q2 2021 PRESENTS

Tabitha Stella McCartney, Simmons, Creative Director, Founder and Stella McCartney Creative Brand Director, Tabitha Simmons

Tory Burch, Executive Chairman and Chief Creative Officer, Tory Burch

Shawn Outler, Chief Diversity Officer, Macy’s Inc.

Esi Eggleston Bracey, R. Alexandra Keith, EVP & COO NA Beauty and CEO, P&G Beauty Personal Care, Unilever

ALL IMAGES FROM LE WWD AND FN EVENTS FEMA Celebrating FORCES:Women in Power

Raising the bar on the female Opportunities include: empowerment conversation, l Custom Survey with Data Polling l Custom 21 of 21 Women in Power Special WWD and Footwear News Editorial Section will ignite and spotlight 21 l Words from the Wise Social Media Series on Instagram women in power and report on l Celebratory Luncheon (Sept 22nd) to Toast modern day female leadership the Honorees and Share Survey Findings

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND SPONSORSHIP OPPORTUNITIES: SANDI MINES, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, FAIRCHILD AT [email protected]