ISSUE #43 FEBRUARY 19, 2021 A Publication of WWD Hitting Refresh Virtual or no, as awards season approaches, Tinseltown derms and plastic surgeons report they're busier than ever with clients clamoring to look like Gigi Hadid and other A-listers. For more, see pages 10 and 11. PLUS: Nicolas Hieronimus, L’Oréal’s incoming CEO, on his strategic vision for Day One. COLLAGE BY JILLIAN SOLLAZZO THE BUZZ 2 FEBRUARY 19, 2021 By The Numbers: Skin Care Trends in AR/AI Tools Data from Revieve’s AI Skin Advisory Solutions show exploding adoption rates — and heightened consumer concern around aging. BY JAMES MANSO AS CONSUMERS increasingly rely on the internet to help solve their skin care concerns, artificial intelligence providers stand to gain a plethora of consumer insights. Revieve, an artificial intelligence company that offers selfie- and questionnaire-based skin care diagnostics to the consumers of over 100 brand and retailers, has noticed a serious uptick in adoption, and therefore, of what consumers are shopping for. Skin concerns that showed The Thread: the most growth in January include redness (up 38 percent), Gold Face Masks Drive Buzz — and Sales hyperpigmentation (up 37 Gold face masks are driving organic social media content, percent) and dullness (up 34 percent). However, concerns resulting in a sales boost for brands. BY ALEXA TIETJEN AND JAMES MANSO around aging, like wrinkles, fine lines and undereye bags, showed Skin care enthusiasts are lighting Dr. Maryam Zamani, a London- customers’ interest in at-home, self- the highest overall volume. up social media with gold face masks. based oculoplastic surgeon and care treatments during this time Although the tool's usage is Searches for “gold face mask” spiked the founder of MZ Skin, said her and, of course, the benefits that the generally trending upward, it's at the beginning of the pandemic, company has grown 200 percent product delivers thanks to its unique still subject to its fluctuations, the experiencing an overall increase of in e-commerce sales during the 24-karat gold antioxidant infusion.” company said. “About a year ago, 76.8 percent last year, according to coronavirus pandemic, with Holler and Glow has seen a 100 we saw more than a 400 percent Spate data. Searches for “rose gold customers sharing images of the percent increase in sales of its Money increase in interactions with face masks” are also up — by 42.2 brand's gold-toned face masks on Honey Hydrogel Under Eye Masks, brand experiences,” said Sampo percent since last year — and expected Instagram. which released at the beginning Parkkinen, chief executive officer to continue to grow. “We live in an Instagram moment of January and retail at Target for of Revieve. Following a slight downward trend, January of 2021 Brands such as 111Skin are seeing and people want to contribute and $2.99 per pack. On Amazon Beauty, showed an increase of 25 percent an increase in interest in gold and feel a part of society, even more so Permotary Store's 24K Gold Gel from December 2020. “Fluctuation rose gold face mask products, with than ever because they're so isolated,” Collagen Eye Pads, $12.99 for a pack in interaction and engagement has 111Skin appearing in top searches for Zamani said. of 20, and Grace & Stella's Gold a lot to do with the coronavirus “rose gold face masks,” according to MZ Skin's face masks are Under Eye Patches, $12.99 for a pack and whether people are going to Spate. biodegradable, with hydrating active of 12, are listed in the “Customer's stores,” he said. Dr. Yannis Alexandrides, plastic ingredients such as hyaluronic Most-Loved” beauty category, which Use of Revieve's skin care surgeon and cofounder of 111Skin, acid. The Hydra-Lift Golden Facial is reserved for products with a rating diagnostics aren't just on the rise; said the Rose Gold Face Mask is Treatment Mask retails for $30 for a of at least four stars. the company saw a 54 percent the brand's bestselling mask in the single mask or $130 for a pack of five, Ambari Beauty will soon launch increase in purchase actions taken U.S., selling 20 million units since while the Hydra-Bright Golden Eye two new skus, one of which is a from its digital offerings. Here, its launch in 2018. Masks in general Treatment Mask is priced at $25 per gold face mask, later this month the top 10 concerns registered by Revieve's Skin Advisory have grown the most out of all of the mask or $106 for a pack of five. at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Solutions in January 2021, brand's categories in the U.S. market, The Light-Therapy Golden Facial Goodman. Founder Nisha Grewal ranked by volume. hitting 1.1 million pounds in 2020 Treatment, priced at $625, has been anticipates the Gold Perfection22 sales, up 97 percent from the year “hugely popular,” Zamani said. Mask to be the brand's hero product. 1. wrinkles and fine lines prior. Clé de Peau Beauté's Precious Gold “We’re sending it to quite a few 2. eyebags Buzz behind the mask started on Vitality Mask, $295, has exceeded celebrities, influencers and a bunch 3. visible pores Instagram. sales expectations in the month of industry experts to get that organic 4. dull/tired skin “Initially, it was organic — people since its launch, said Alessio Rossi, content of people trying the mask,” 5. dark spots were willing to take photos and executive vice president of Clé de Grewal said. 6. redness share the results [on social media],” Peau Beauté U.S. “We want to use as much user- 7. dark circles Alexandrides said. He counted posts “We exceeded our sales plan by generated content as we can, and 8. acne from Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, several multiples and it has already all of our content shows off the gold 9. sagging skin Margot Robbie and Priyanka Chopra achieved our number-five sku texture,” she continued. “Consumers 10. hyperpigmentation Jonas as instrumental to driving the ranking,” he said in a statement. want to see the flecks on your skin mask's virality. “We attribute this success to our and see the mask actually working.” Source: Revieve, January 2021. Collage by Alex Bandoni 2021 Beauty Instagram Benchmarks: Understanding COVID’s Impact For the frst half of 2020, Dash Hudson analyzed the 100 most- followed cosmetics, skincare, haircare, and fragrance brands on Instagram to uncover the impact of COVID-19 on performance and what that could mean long-term. The result is a series of benchmark KPIs that will help you understand your current numbers, and guide strategy and goals for the year ahead. What you’ll learn in the report: • The four most important KPIs for the beauty sector on Instagram and the industry average for each • What these KPIs signal and how they’ve grown or declined year-over-year • How COVID-19 has impacted consumer behavior on Instagram • The strategies industry leaders employ to thrive on the channel Download Now MARKE TING P A R T N E R dashhudson.com NEWS FEED 4 FEBRUARY 19, 2021 Nicolas Hieronimus “The regional differences also show true potential,” said Hieronimus, citing as an example Asia, where L’Oréal has 11 percent market share, and Western Europe, where it ranges from 16 percent to 30 percent. “My three regional priorities will be pursing the Chinese momentum, boosting growth in the U.S.A. and accelerating in the emerging markets, where the rapid digitalization and the rise of e-commerce will give us easier access to this pool of aspiring consumers,” he said. Product category-wise, Hieronimus’ first priority will be skin care. “It is the biggest and most dynamic beauty category, at the crossroads of all trends, a high added-value category, driven by science and performance, where our R&I gives us the upper hand, as proven this year,” he said. “We will grow valorized hair care and color, both in the professional and mass worlds,” continued Hieronimus. “Our global leadership in fragrance puts us in the best position to benefit from these categories’ acceleration in China.” He is confident and ambitious about makeup, too, calling it the most cyclical category, down now but L’Oréal’s Next CEO Shares Vision due to rebound. “And we will lead it,” said Nicolas Hieronimus’ strategy for the group is shaped around three words: Hieronimus. “The third driver of continuity, confidence and ambition. BY JENNIFER WEIL my ambition is e-commerce, which will continue to be a strong growth PARIS — A page in L’Oréal’s history for the world of tomorrow, as L’Oréal duo, and our relationship will engine. We are preparing for a time began to turn during the group’s has anticipated all fundamental shifts continue to evolve on different terms, when e-commerce may represent 50 financial analyst meeting transmitted to win in the 21st century. but in the same spirit of proximity. percent of our business, split between from company headquarters in the “Our group is now ready to make “I have a lot of confidence for the direct-to-consumer, e-retailers and Paris suburbs of Clichy on Feb. 12. miracles under the leadership of a future, which relies, on the one hand, pure players, which will scale social Jean-Paul Agon, L’Oréal chairman new captain,” said Agon, who added on the power of the L’Oréal model,” commerce as a new way to reach and chief executive officer, presided he is “extremely happy and serene” to he added. “And on the other hand, on and engage our consumers [and] will over the virtual conference, seated in be handing the helm to Hieronimus.