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Asian Geographic Magazine AG Aware T H E A R T S Chinese building techniques with tropical sensibilities, and in- from the other parts of the house at one end by a massive rose- corporates an eclectic mix of architectural and decorative styles. wood and gold-filigreed screen. Side doors beside the ornate Gothic louvered shutters protect English Art Nouveau-stained screen lead to the open central courtyard where you see the Blue Mood glass from the elements while Cantonese timber lattices hang upper floor verandahs bordered on four sides by wrought iron- AN ARCHITECTURAL LANDMARK IN over ochre and brown tiles from Stroke-on-Trent in England. work from MacFarlane’s of Glasgow. PENANG BASKS IN ITS RESTORED GLORY. Chinese-style solid timber doors open to Fujianese frescoes. Two rooms, one on the ground floor and the other on the Cheong spared no expense in getting the mansion built second level, have been converted into archive rooms showcas- Text and Photos: to his specifications. Two wooden staircases from the central ing black and white photos of Cheong’s family, along with para- JASWINDER KAUR GILL courtyard lead to the inner sanctum of the mansion where phernalia of everyday items including a wedding bed similar to Cheong ’s room and the handmaiden’s room is located. As you the one that Cheong would have had. Original richly brocaded gaze around the space, you see original stained glass windows cheongsams and cotton tops of Cheong’s seventh wife (sal- Located on quiet Leith Street on the island of Penang, Ma- that were built in the same style (albeit less flamboyant) served in hues of blue, yellow and green painstakingly restored by vaged from the restoration project) are displayed here, together laysia, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion (also known as the Blue as the servants’ quarters. artisans. Here the flooring is local tropical darkwood, mainly with various books and Cheong’s top hat! Mansion) is a grand edifice built in the Chinese courtyard style. chengal. At the balcony, you will see up close the delicate chien It is only one of three similar houses still in existence outside Eclectic Architecture nien (cut and paste) porcelain work. Twelve panels depicting Perfect Alignment of China. Georgetown, the capital of Penang, is the oldest British set- scenes from Chinese mythology line one end of the balcony Feng shui (the ancient Chinese art of harmonising with nature) Constructed between 1896 and 1904 and covering an area of tlement in Southeast Asia. Founded by Francis Light in 1786, wall. Master artisans from China were brought in to restore has dictated every aspect of the mansion’s architecture. The 3,000 square metres, the Blue Mansion incorporates the main Georgetown soon became a magnet for enterprising individu- these panels. building occupies a most auspicious location, with its back to- building and two side wings. It has 38 rooms, seven staircases, als and became the home of many a merchant. At the close of Chien nien is used liberally on the exterior of the mansion. wards Penang Hill and its front facing the sea. It is believed that five granite-paved courtyards and a staggering 220 windows! the 19th century, the island’s prosperity had produced quite a Red, blue, green and pastel hues of porcelain shards are pieced construction of the mansion began with the central courtyard Although its exterior is distinctly Chinese, the interior of few millionaires, mainly Straits Chinese and Hakka entrepre- together to form flowers, animals and geometric patterns that and radiated outwards. The mansion sits on a rhombus-shaped the mansion is an eclectic mix of European, Chinese and Ma- neurs like Cheong. adorn the gable walls and roof ridges of the mansion. This plot of land and is deliberately not aligned to the street. Instead, laysian styles, reflecting the man who commissioned the build- While many of Penang’s newly minted millionaires looked Southern Chinese art form is repeated on the main entrance, it is at a slight incline so that the back of the mansion is raised. ing of the mansion, the millionaire philanthropist Cheong Fatt to the west for inspiration and erected mansions incorporat- an imposing gate with Cheong’s name in Chinese characters Even the number of rooms (six) in its two side wings is pre- Tze. Master craftsmen were brought in from China and build- ing Anglo-Indian, Palladian and Corinthian styles, Cheong etched on it. scribed by feng shui. ing materials imported from Europe to make a home befitting looked to his homeland and chose to build for himself a Chi- The main hall of the mansion was where Cheong enter- Throughout the mansion, the Five Elements of metal, this great figure. A row of five terrace houses across the road nese courtyard mansion. The Blue Mansion melds traditional tained and received guests. This reception area is partitioned wood, fire, water and earth are also employed. The gutter sys- Left: The main corridor leading to the Cheong Fatt Tze: entrance is paved with Stoke-on-Trent tiles. The rickshaws are mementos from the film Industrialist and Diplomat Indochine starring Catherine Deneuve, which was partly filmed in the Blue Mansion. Cheong Fatt Tze was born in 1840 in southern China and journeyed This photo: Chien Nien decorative work on to Southeast Asia at 16 to seek a better life for himself. He arrived the gable wall. in Batavia, Indonesia (modern-day Jakarta), and started working Right: In keeping with feng shui principles, the mansion is not aligned with Leith Street. as a water carrier, eventually marrying the daughter of a wealthy Chinese businessman. Cheong managed to invest wisely in the produce of the region (mainly rubber and coconut). From Batavia, he built up a business empire with interests in Java and Sumatra, Singapore, Hong Kong, China and Penang. His businesses included tea and coffee planta- tions, textile mills, banks, a shipping company and even a winery that is still in operation in China today. Appointed by the Chinese government as its Consul General to Singapore and Vice-Consul General to Malaya and the Dutch In- dies, Cheong also assisted China’s modernisation by developing its railway and banking system. For his services, China awarded him the title ‘Mandarin of the Highest Order.’ At the close of the 19th century, Cheong moved his operational base to Penang and began building the Blue Mansion. When he died at the age of 76 in September 1916, British and Dutch flags were lowered at half-mast to honour him. Such was the stature of the man who built the Blue Mansion. 104 | 7/2007 | 105 T H E A R T S tem within takes a circuitous route through the house, keeping the water in as long as possible – an ingenious way of cooling the house in the tropics and in keeping with feng shui principles of keeping wealth in the house as long as possible! Feng shui masters have declared the Blue Mansion perfectly aligned ac- cording to the ancient principles. Restoration For many years after Cheong’s death, the mansion stood derelict. In 1990, a group of conservationist led by the architect Lawrence Loh acquired it. Thus began the arduous process of renovation, restoration and conservation, to the tune of US$2 million. Apart from electrical wiring and the installation of a plumbing sys- tem, the mansion was restored to its original form including its lime-washed indigo blue colour. Above: The mansion’s main gate The mansion was opened to the public in 1997 after six is emblazoned with Cheong Fatt years of Grade 1 restoration. It has earned many awards includ- Tze’s name in Chinese characters. Below: The roof of the mansion ing the Malaysian Architects Association’s architecture award from Leith Street. for design excellence (1995), a UNESCO Asia Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation (2000) and the ASEANTA Ex- cellence Award for Cultural Preservation (2004). Resources Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion The mansion is now a boutique hotel with 16 rooms fash- www.cheongfatttzemansion.com ioned to reflect a bygone era. Daily tours provide a glimpse into the life and legacy of the man dubbed the ‘Rockefeller of the East’ by The New York Times. The Blue Mansion’s restoration JASWINDER KAUR GILL is a freelance writer based in Singapore. She writes on has become a benchmark for similar projects in Georgetown travel, culture and education. A heritage and beyond. ▪ enthusiast, she enjoys exploring the ‘old quarter’ of cities and towns. Her articles have been published in numerous regional newspapers and magazines. 106 | .
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