NATIONAL PARK . . . ortcuuaU UNITED STATES Historic Events DEPARTMENT OF THE HAWAII 1773 Capt. James Cook, Royal British INTERIOR Navy, landed on Island of Kauai. NATIONAL PARK HAROLD L. ICKES. Secretary 1792-3-4 Hawaii visited by Capt. George HAWAII Vancouver, Royal British Navy. OPEN 1794 Archibald Menzies, botanist, and ALL party of Vancouver expedition made J YEAR 9 4i first successful ascent of Mauna Loa.

1823 Kilauea visited and explored for first time by Rev. William Ellis and party. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE SILVERSWORD IN HALEAKALA CRATER NEWTON B. DRURY, Director 1825 Kilauea visited and mapped by party under Lord George Byron.

CO^TE^TS 1838 Lake of molten lava in Kilauea named Halemaumau by Count Strzelecki. A Giant Fern Cover AWAII NATIONAL PARK was the result of a broad depression at its 1840-41 Expedition under Capt. John created by act of Congress, top and of its gentle slopes, caused by Kilauea ...... 3 Wilkes, U. S. Navy, explored and H August 1, 1916, and placed under the lava flows from many lateral vents. Mauna Loa 6 mapped Kilauea and Mauna Loa. control of the National Park Service. It Within the depression is a vast pit, Haleakala 8 1856 Erection of first "Volcano House" consists of two sepatate tracts of land, Halemaumau, which often contains a hotel at Kilauea, a grass house. Roads and Trails 10 the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section, on the boiling, bubbling mass of molten lava whose surface fluctuates from bottom 1912 Hawaiian Volcano Observatory estab­ Island of Hawaii, and the Haleakala Mauna Loa Trip 11 to rim. Until 1924 molten lava was lished. section, on the Island of Maui. It con­ Trees and Shrubs . . . . 11 tains 275.71 square miles, the greater usually visible at any time in Hale­ 1916 Aug. 1, Hawaii National Park estab­ portion cf which is in the Kilauea- maumau, but activity since then has Native Hawaiian Birds . . 12 lished by act of Congress. Mauna Loa area. been spasmodic. Its risings are accom­ Kipuka Puaulu 13 1933 Airplanes used for first time to carry The park was established to conserve panied by brilliant fountains and in­ Interpretive Service . . . . 13 visitors to witness eruption of Mauna the most spectacular volcanic areas in flows of liquid lava, and its lowerings Loa. HuioPele 13 the United States. Its craters, active by tremendous avalanches which send and dormant, may be approached with up enormous dust clouds. Administration 14 1934 President Roosevelt visited the park. First American President to visit park reasonable safety. A century and a half ago, in 1790, Free Public Campgrounds . 14 while in office. Kilauea became unusually active, and

Army Camp 14 1935 Feb. 23, dedication of the Haleakala KILAUEA its violent blast of ash destroyed a Ha­ waiian army. Footprints in the volcanic Accommodations and Road. In the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section of ash are still visible today. Following Expenses 14 1935-36 Important scientific bombing ex­ Hawaii National Park is the volcano of this great activity, the volcano was in­ periment successfully carried out by Miscellaneous Services ... 14 Army Air Corps during eruption Kilauea. This volcano, probably older active for many decades, and no rocks Communication Service. . 14 from northeast rift of Mauna Loa. than its neighbor, towering Mauna Loa, or ash were ejected until 1924. Photographic Supplies . . 15 creates the impression of being a crater During the autumn of 1923 the lake 1940 Mauna Loa erupted April 7 in sum­ in the side of the higher mountain, al­ of fire drained away, then gradually How to Reach the Park . . 15 mit crater, Mokuaweoweo. though it is itself a mountain with an returned until the pit contained a 50- altitude of 4,090 feet. This illusion is acre lake of seething lava. Lava geysers

2 Hawaii National Park • Hawaii Hawaii National Park • Hawaii 3 1940 FOUNTAIN ACTIVITY, MOKUAWEOWEO CRATER, SUMMIT MAUNA LOA

appeared on its surface, sending incan­ July 1927, a similar display occurred, descent sprays 150 feet into the air. In lasting for two weeks, and in January 1924 the lake disappeared and crum­ 1928, the fire returned for one night bling masses of rock fell into the smok­ only. Gas and vapor rise continually. ing pit, choking the vents through During 1929 spectacular lava inflows which the volcanic gases had escaped. A occurred in February and July, raising few months later when steam blasts un­ the floor level 55 and 45 feet, respec­ expectedly occurred, the vents were tively. The pit depth in December 1929, cleared by tremendous explosions which was 1,050 feet and the floor area 48 hurled boulders and ash thousands of acres. On November 19, 1930, molten feet into the air. The violent disturb­ lava again appeared in Halemaumau. ances continued three weeks, by which Activity continued until December 7. time the fire pit had been enlarged to This activity raised the floor of the pit four times its former size, the opening 70 feet; the surface area of the floor being 190 acres in area and 1,200 feet then covered 62 acres. deep. A few weeks later, when all was Following a series of earthquakes, quiet, a roaring jet of lava appeared at molten lava broke into the bottom of the bottom of the pit, sending up a Halemaumau on December 23, 1931. steady spray 200 feet high, building up The activity lasted as a spectacular dis­ a small cinder cone, and forming a 10- play until January 5, 1932. During the acre lava lake on the floor of the pit. In activity the pit was filled to a depth of

4 Hawaii National Park * Hawaii Hawaii National Park * Hawaii 5 100 feet with lava, resulting in a new crater, Mokuaweoweo, is included in highway crosses, 40 miles west of the flow that threatened Hilo. The Army floor of 88 acres, which was 860 feet the national park. Included also is a park headquarters. Air Corps successfully bombed the below the rim of the pit. broad connecting belt between the two 1899, a flank eruption from the upper channels of this flow to divert it At about 2:45 a. m. on September 6, volcanoes. Mauna Loa thrusts its great northeast rift. before reaching the town. 1934, without much preliminary warn­ bulk 13,680 feet above the surrounding 1919, the Alika flow, from the south­ 1940, with no perceptible warning, Pacific. By eruptions in its summit crater ing, molten lava again returned to the west rift that crossed the highway on a 4-mile crack opened extending across and flank outbreaks it is constantly add­ fire pit in Kilauea. This eruption in its the southwest side of the island. the summit crater and a short distance ing to its mass. early stages was one of the most spec­ 1926, a large flow from the southwest outside to the southwest, in the late eve­ tacular on record. Highly charged with In action Mauna Loa is even more rift that destroyed portions of the Belt ning of April 7. This was a gorgeous gas released from tremendous pressure, spectacular than Kilauea; steam vents Highway in South Kona and the fishing display that lasted to midafternoon of the frothy lava burst through a crack continually send feathery clouds into village of Hoopuloa as it reached the April 8, when the fountaining activity 700 feet long, half way up the western the air. Mokuaweoweo and Kilauea are sea. concentrated near the southwest center wall of the crater, cascading in rivers of approximately equal size, but the 1933, a summit eruption. At this time of the crater. This eruption lasted con­ of fire 425 feet to the floor below. The former is slowly increasing its area by airplanes were first used to take sight­ tinuously to June 21, and spasmodically force of the lava cracked open the old slumping and breaking down of its seers over the eruption. until August 20. This is the longest floor left by the 1931-32 eruption across outer walls. Extending northeast and 1935, the northeast rift erupted for period of summit activity since the erup­ its northern and northwest end, and southwest from the summit are volcanic the first time since 1899, producing a tion of 1873-74. along the foot of the western wall dense rifts with many deep rents formed by clouds of sulphur fumes poured out, as earthquake and eruption as well as the fiery fountains shot the liquid lava many brilliantly colored spatter cones, high into the air. As in the previous some 200 feet in height. These rifts eruption, blocks of light pumice thrown have been the source of most of the out from the vents were whirled upward recent eruptions, though the summit by the heat currents and gales of wind, crater is also frequently active. and deposited in shattered fragments Following are major eruptions of over the land for more than a mile to Mauna Loa: leeward. In a few days the crater had 1873-74, a summit eruption of 18 been filled with new lava to a depth of months' duration. 70 feet, and instead of the countless frothy fountains of the initial outbreak 1877, a submarine eruption, 1 mile the activity centered in a lake of fire off shore near Kealakekua Bay. with from 5 to 10 fountains continu­ 1880-81, a flank eruption of 9 ously throwing jets of heavy liquid lava months' duration on the northeast rift, 50 to 200 feet above the lake. The erup­ that produced three major lava streams, tion ended on October 8, leaving a new one to the southward, one to the north floor of about 95 acres and about 740 in the direction of Kilauea, and the feet below the rim. other to the northeast which reached the present limits of the town of Hilo. 1877, a major flow emerged from MAUNA LOA the southwest rift, that lasted for 10 days, finally reaching the sea about 8 To the west of Kilauea rises the vast miles northwest of South Point. This is dome of Mauna Loa whose summit one of the big flows that the main island HALEAKALA CRATER SECTION MAP

6 Hawaii National Park * Hawaii Hawaii National Park • Hawaii 7 WIND-BLOWN OHIA TREE, VICINITY HILINA PALI DIVIDED ROAD, STEAMING AREA CHAIN-OF-CRATERS, VICINITY OF ALOI CRATER

Spectacular and violent as these out­ 10,000 feet above sea level, was once a probably caused by these explosions. At While the western slope of Haleakala breaks are, they are not dangerous, for much higher mountain. A collapse of the head of these gaps are lovely grassy and a large part of the interior of the there is always plenty of time for on­ the dome many years ago formed a great meadows where from the overtowering crater are arid, and vegetation is scarce, lookers to get to places of safety. In crater 7Vz miles long and 3 miles walls flow springs of pure water. Dotted the eastern slopes, where the rainfall is fact, a volcanic eruption in Hawaii is wide, with walls over 1,000 feet high. with clumps of trees, they are ideal heavy, support a rich plant life. Much cause for rejoicing rather than fear. Within these gorgeously colored walls spots for camping. Tanks to gather and of this dense forest region is still vir­ lies a superb volcanic spectacle. Cover­ store the water from the mountain gin and unexplored. Among its many HALEAKALA ing the floor are giant red, black, and springs have been erected at various species of plants are large-leafed ape- points in the crater and shelter cabins ape, the greensword, which resembles The Haleakala section of Hawaii Na­ orange cinder cones which, though hun­ have been constructed. the silversword, and a peculiar geran­ tional Park contains one of the world's dreds of feet high, are dwarfed by the ium found only on Haleakala. largest dormant volcanoes. The moun­ immensity of their surrounding. The On the walls and within the crater tain derives its name, which means crater has a circumference of 21 miles grows the rare silversword plant, a large The beauty of the sunset and sun­ "House of the Sun," from a legend and an area of 19 square miles. spherical herb with narrow leaves that rise on Haleakala is unforgettable. If about the Polynesian demigod Maui, After the collapse of the dome vol­ gleam like polished silver. The life cycle fortunate, the visitor at sunset may be who climbed to the top of Haleakala, canic activity continued, and lava flows of this plant is not fully known, but privileged to witness the Brocken Spec- ensnared the rays of the sun, and forced have poured out from vents in the only once does it flower, producing on tor, a great shadow image, which is it to travel more slowly in its course so crater. Explosions have scattered ash, a stalk 2 to 4 feet high a mass of beau­ really that of the person viewing it. The that his mother might have sufficient cinder, and debris over the landscape. tiful purple blossoms. After the seeds shadow is usually surrounded by a time to complete her day's work. Great gaps in the crater walls at the have matured, the entire plant generally single halo or rainbow, although as Haleakala, now rising more than southeast and northwest corners were dies. many as seven have been seen.

8 Hawaii National Park • Hawaii Hawaii National Park • Hawaii 9 —Photo by Cunningham. HALEAKALA CRATER FROM OBSERVATION STATION NEAR SUMMIT PORTION OF AA FLOW, 1940 ERUPTION, SUMMIT MAUNA LOA

ROADS AND TRAILS may walk from the sea to the summit act location of the water tanks which All persons intending to ascend Forty-four miles of highway lie with­ of Mauna Loa; from the Volcano House have been erected along the trails. Mauna Loa must first register at park in the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section, the through rich tropical vegetation, down headquarters and secure permission to MAUNA LOA TRIP main roads being paved. One road leads by way of a fault to the floor of Kila- use the rest houses. A fee of 50 cents to the brink of Halemaumau; another uea; in the other, through the crater From the Volcano House to Mokua- per person, per night, is charged for use winds through twisted koa stands which of Haleakala from the observation sta­ weoweo, the summit crater of Mauna of these rest houses. There is no fee for frame the dome of Mauna Loa and com tion to Paliku, and thence to the sea Loa, and return is 60 miles. The trip minors of 16 years, or under, or groups tinues up its slopes 6,500 feet. The ex­ through Kaupo Gap or return via other can be made in 3 days either riding or of school children 18 years of age, or tremely rough Hilina Pali Road goes to trails across the crater, emerging along walking. under, when accompanied by a respon­ the edge of a 1,000-foot cliff facing the the Halemauu' Trail near the ranger This is not an easy peak to climb, and sible adult. sea; the Chain-of-Craters Road, 7 miles station. to get to the summit is long and ex­ long, skirts a dozen craters lying along Before starting any trail trips, hikers hausting. The climber must exercise TREES AND SHRUBS the great Puna rift. At Haleakala an should contact park headquarters at Ki- moderation in diet; eating often and excellent road goes to the summit of lauea or the ranger in charge at Halea­ little will make the trip less arduous. A The student of botany will find much this crater. kala for details, advice, and permits for wool-lined leather jacket and hobbed to interest him in Hawaii National One hundred fifty-nine miles of trail overnight trips. Permission must be boots are essential equipment, and Park, from the coconut groves of the in the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section and secured for overnight stops at the rest leather gloves, smoked glasses, facial coast to the stunted ohia trees near the 28 miles in the Haleakala section bring houses. Hikers on overnight trips should creams, lip ointment, and a scarf for the timber line of Mauna Loa. Particularly many interesting and weird sights to always carry a canteen of water, and neck are a protection against windburn striking is the tropical vegetation in the hiker's eye. In the one section he should inform rhemselves as to the ex­ and sunburn. the Fern Jungle on the road to Kilauea,

10 Hawaii National Park • Hawaii Hawaii National Park • Hawaii 11 ohia lehua flowers; the omao, or Hawaii ed in 1912, is directed by the principal thrush, a songster around the Thurston scientist and operated in cooperation Lava Tube; or the akiapolaau, with one with the Hawaiian Volcano Research long and one short mandible for peck­ Association and the graduate School of ing beetles out of wood in the koa Geophysics of the University of Ha­ groves of Mauna Loa. waii. A vast amount of research has On the slopes of Mauna Loa a flock been and is being conducted, including of the nearly extinct Hawaiian goose, or continuous observations of Kilauea and nene, is sometimes seen. The migratory Mauna Loa, since established. Data Pacific golden plover, or kolea, winters concerning earthquakes, tidal waves, in the park. Sea birds are the Hawaiian and volcanoes are obtained and studied. tern, or noio, a graceful, grey bird at Other research work and the infor­ the shore cliffs, and the white-tailed mation service are under the supervision tropic bird, or koae, frequently soaring of the park naturalist. This work is in­ within the crater Halemaumau. terpreted to the public by scheduled field trips to points of interest, trailside shrines and museums of strategic loca­ KIPUKA PUAULU tions, and illustrated lectures by the va­ Kipuka Puaulu, a beautiful natural rious staff members at the central mu­ park, also known as Bird Park, is an seum in conjunction with demonstra­ interesting feature of the Kilauea area. ENTRANCE TO THURSTON LAVA TUBE tion maps, charts, and other exhibits. This kipuka, or oasis, has escaped en­ Much of the scientific and museum circling lava flows, and its rich black equipment has been donated by the Ha­ soil supports a marvelous variety of the Hawaiian Islands today which are as waiian Volcano Research Association where giant ferns reach a height of 40 vegetation. As many as 40 species of well favored for varied kinds of abun­ and other interested groups. feet, with single fronds 25 feet long trees grow here. This favored spot of dance of Hawaiian birds. Ancient Ha- arching gracefully over the highway. In 100 acres is the haunt of many beautiful waiians trapped many of these birds and HUI O PELE this verdant jungle under the canopy and rare native birds. A nature trail has of ohia trees, with their greyish-green used the scarlet feathers of the iiwi and been established along which the rare The Hui O Pele is an organization foliage and brilliant red pompom-like the yellow feathers of the now extinct trees are plainly marked. A trailside sponsored by the Outdoor Circle of blossoms known as "lehua," the flower mamo for the decoration of war cloaks, shrine provides additional information.. Honolulu and is composed of those who of the island, one easily gets the impres­ or ahuula. have visited the fire pit, Halemaumau, sion of being back in a prehistoric era. Native perching birds to be seen in in the crater of Kilauea. the home of In the damp forest regions and along INTERPRETIVE SERVICES forests throughout the park are the the fire goddess Pele. The life member­ the trails ohelo berries grow in abun­ apapane, an abundant, colorful bird The research and information facil­ ship fee is $1, and net revenues there­ dance. with red, black, and white markings; ities maintained by the Government are from are expended for improvements in the amakihi, a small yellow-green insect directed jointly by the principal scientist the park. Among the structures which NATIVE HAWAIIAN BIRDS gatherer; and the elepaio, or flycatcher, and park naturalist, from the new Vol­ have been erected are the Uwekahuna The fern jungles, ohia and koa forests red-brown with black and white mark­ cano Observatory and Naturalist Build­ lecture hall, the Summit rest house on of Hawaii National Park, Kilauea sec­ ings. The painstaking observer may also ing, just across the road from park Mauna Loa, the Footprint Museum tion, are inhabited by unique birds, in­ find the vermilion iiwi in Kipuka Pua- headquarters and the Volcano House shelter, and the shelters at Hilina Pali, cluding eight kinds native only to the ulu with its sickle-shaped red bill and entrance. Thurston Lava Tube, Halemauu Trail, Island of Hawaii. There are few spots in tubular tongue for sucking honey from and other points. The Volcano Observatory, establish-

12 Hawaii National Park • Hawaii 13 Hawaii National Park • Hawaii ADMINISTRATION franchise from the Department of the Interior. Rates for rooms with meals are The park is administered by the Na­ $5 a day upward, per person. The tional Park Service, United States De­ weekly rate for one person in a room partment of the Interior, with the super­ with shower, is $40; other rooms may intendent in immediate charge. The be had from $25 up. Half rates are administrative center is in the Kilauea charged for children under 8. Special area. rates are offered for 4 weeks or All complaints, suggestions, and re­ longer and for two or more persons in quests for information should be ad­ a room. Sulphur baths are 50 cents dressed to the Superintendent, whose each. Horse rental and guide service are post-office address is Hawaii National $5 per day each. Park, Territory of Hawaii. The park operator in the Haleakala The superintendent's representative section, E. J. Walsh, Manager of the in the Haleakala section is the Ranger- Grand Hotel, Wailuku, Maui, also fur­ in-Charge, P. O. Box 320, Wailuku, nishes horses and guide service at the whose office is near the park entrance same rates. on the Haleakala Road. This booklet is issued once a year, and the rates mentioned herein may FREE PUBLIC CAMPGROUNDS have changed slightly since issuance,

Two public automobile camps, where but the latest rates approved by the Sec­ KEAOI ISLAND OFF SOUTH COAST, KILAUEA SECTION motorists may obtain free wood and retary of the Interior are on file with the water, have been established. Shelter park superintendent, the manager of the buildings, picnic grounds, fireplaces, Volcano House, and the manager of the HOW TO REACH THE PARK $27. Cars may be rented at the wharves and other conveniences are provided at Grand Hotel. Both sections of the park are reached or airports for trips to both sections of these campgrounds. by steamer or airplane from Honolulu. the park. MISCELLANEOUS SERVICES Steamer service to the Kilauea section Bus service, operated by K. Hata- ARMY CAMP Communication Service. — A post is twice a week; to the Haleakala sec­ yama, is available twice daily between Hilo and the Kilauea section. These In the Kilauea section, 1 mile from office is maintained at the Volcano tion, 6 days a week. Air service is buses leave Hilo at 9 a. m. and 3 p. m., the Volcano House, is a rest and recrea­ House, Hawaii, T. H., the year round. available daily to the Islands of Hawaii and leave the park at 12:30 and 4:30 tion camp established for the use of the Telegrams may be received and sent and Maui. Minimum steamer rates are p. m. The fare is 50 cents each way. United States Army and Navy officers from the hotel. Telephone and wireless $25 round trip between Honolulu and For trips to and through the Ha­ and their families, and for the enlisted connections can be made with all parts Hilo, port of Hawaii Island, and ap­ waiian Island, the Hawaii Tourist Bu­ men. The camp has a well-equipped of the world. proximately $16 round trip between reau, a nonprofit community-advertis­ hospital and post exchange. Honolulu and Lahaina or Kahului on Photographic Supplies. — A studio ing and information organization, with Maui. Round trip airplane fare between where photographic supplies of every offices in Honolulu and 215 Market ACCOMMODATIONS AND Honolulu and Hilo is $41.50 and be­ kind may be obtained is adjacent to the Street, San Francisco, will supply in­ EXPENSES tween Honolulu and the Maui airport Volcano House. It is operated by K. formation. The only hotel in Hawaii National Maehara, who also maintains a labora­ Park is the Volcano House, located in tory for developing, printing, enlarging, the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section and coloring, and framing of pictures or lan­ operated by George Lycurgus under tern slides.

14 Hawaii National Park • Hawaii Hawaii National Park * Hawaii 15 RULES AND REGULATIONS [Briefed]

Let no one say, and say it to your shame, That all was beauty here until you came.

The following summary of rules and Dogs, Cats, or Other Domestic regulations is intended as a guide for Animals.— Such animals are prohib­ all park visitors. You are requested to ited on Government lands within the aid the park administration by carefully park except as allowed through per­ observing the provisions as outlined: mission of the superintendent, secured Preservation of Natural Features. from park rangers at park headquarters. —The first law of a national park is Automobiles.— Safe speed limit on preservation. Disturbance, injury, or de­ the park roads is 35 miles per hour. In struction in any way of natural features, the headquarters area a speed limit of including trees, flowers, and other vege­ 25 miles per hour is rigidly enforced. tation, rocks, and all wildlife is strictly Trail Travel. — Hikers and riders prohibited. A written permit from the shall not make shortcuts but shall con­ superintendent is necessary for picking fine themselves to the trails at all times. fruit in any quantity in excess of one Saddle animals have the right-of-way gallon. Visitors are cautioned that cer­ over pedestrians. The latter will take tain berries are poisonous. the outer side of the trail whenever Camps.—Camp or lunch only in possible and stand quietly until ani­ designated areas. All rubbish that will mals have passed. burn should be disposed of in camp- Hunting.— Hunting within the park fires. Garbage cans are provided for boundaries is prohibited. No firearms noninflammable refuse. Wood and wa­ are allowed except as provided for ter are provided in all campgrounds. through permission of the superintend­ Fires.— Fires are absolutely prohib­ ent, secured from park rangers at park ited except in designated spots. Do not headquarters. go out of sight of your camp, even for Park Rangers. — The rangers are a few moments, without making sure here to help and advise you as well as to that your fire is either out entirely or enforce the regulations. When in doubt being watched. Extinguish completely ask a ranger. Help them to serve you before leaving camp. better by observing these regulations.

Copies of the complete rules and reg­ ulations promulgated by the Secretary of the Interior for the government of the park may be obtained at the office of the superintendent and at other con­ centration points through the park.

Guaranty Printing & Lithograph Co., San Francisco, California 3-7-41 90M