NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF to QENA 217 Dendara © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Egyptian Proverb Egyptian Abydos Beni Hasan Minya Deir Al-Muharraq

NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 217 Dendara © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Egyptian Proverb Egyptian Abydos Beni Hasan Minya Deir al-Muharraq

Deir ( p235 ) tombs of tombs of Temple of Seti I of Seti Temple ( p223 ) in Beni Hasan ) in Beni Hasan p223 ( Temple of Hathor Temple ( p227 ), to see why the Copts), to see why p227 ( Kheti ( p221 ) and ( p233 ) in Abydos Minya temple complexes in Egypt in Dendara’s in Dendara’s in Egypt complexes temple magnificent Baqet at the reliefs temple wrestlers in the finely painted in the finely painted wrestlers al-Muharraq claim to be heirs to the ancient Egyptians.

of Hang out in the elegant colonial centre Marvel one of the best-preserved at finest upon some of ancient Egypt’s Gaze and muscular lithe dancing girls Admire of the early Coptic monastery Visit

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

He who rides the sea of the Nile must have sails woven of patience. of sails woven must have rides the sea of the Nile He who Because of the violence of the 1990s, security remains tight in places and individual travel individual travel tight in places and remains Because of the violence of the 1990s, security But however much a backwater this part of much a backwater of the valley is now, it still carries vivid reminders But however The region’s sprawling provincial towns were the scene of considerable violence during the scene of considerable towns were sprawling provincial region’s The The green and brown land south of Cairo is still worked by hand, often using tools known is still worked by hand, often and brown land south of Cairo green The

is often difficult, sometimes impossible. is often supposed resting place of the god Osiris’ head and a sacred Egyptian burial ground. Egyptian of the god Osiris’ head and a sacred place supposed resting of the most complete surviving temple complexes. But most mysterious of all is Abydos, the But most mysterious survivingof the most complete complexes. temple period, these sites are reminders of the area’s past importance. Close to Qena is Dendara, one area’s of the reminders are period, these sites rulers to the remains of the doomed city Akhetaten and the monasteries of the early Christianthe doomed city Akhetaten of and the monasteries rulers to the remains the huge role it played in Egypt’s destiny. From the lavishly painted tombs of early provincial tombs the lavishly painted destiny. From the huge role it played in Egypt’s for trouble, they are considerably less developed than cities such as Cairo and Luxor. and Luxor. such as Cairo than cities considerably less developed for trouble, they are the Islamist unrest of the 1990s and although they may no longer deserve their reputation they may no longer deserve of the 1990s and although their reputation the Islamist unrest grapple with the issues of modernity, particularlygrapple with the issues shortages. with pumps and water problems to the ancients, although even in remote rural areas of the Nile Valley, farmers must learn to farmers must learn of the Nile Valley, rural areas in remote even to the ancients, although the effort of a visit and the valley from Cairo to Luxor is no exception. the effort to Luxor and the valley from Cairo of a visit this first segment of Upper Egypt. But the less-visited parts of Egypt almost always repay parts repay almost always of Egypt But the less-visited Egypt. this first segment of Upper In a hurry to reach the treasures of Luxor and the pleasures of the south, it is easy to dismiss of the south, it is easy to dismiss and the pleasures of Luxor the treasures In a hurry to reach

to Qena to Qena Nile Valley: Beni Suef Nile Beni Suef Valley: ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA tried tobreak thepower of theTheban priest- era. Christian interred there anditflourished wellintothe sites: Egypt’s earliest 1stdynastyrulers were as welloneof thecountry’smostsacred predominant religious centre intheregion tomodernSohag,located wasoncethe close edge.built theirtombsonthedesert Abydos, Provincialcapital. governors andnotables 15 nomesorprovinces, each withitsown Suef andQenaintostretched Beni between beyond present-day Saqqara. south of of theancientcapital Memphis, History 218 For theancientEgyptians, UpperEgypt began To Qasral-Farafra (120km) Mut NILE VALLEY Bahariyya (180km) To Cairo The NewKingdom Pharaoh Akhenaten The ancientsdividedthearea that Oasis IEVLE:BN UFT EA • itr NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••History Dakhla Oasis (Libyan) Western Desert Abu Tartur Plateau 10 Al-Ashmunein Meidum (30km); To Pyramidof Oasis (40km) Al-Fayoum Tuna al-Gebel Deir al-Muharraq Tombs ofMir Convent oftheHolyVirgin Al-Kharga Samalut Deir Mawas To Baris Abu Qirqus (90km) ὄ ὄ Hermopolis Minya 20 Dairut 2 Beni Suef Gebel at-Teir 25

Mallawi Nile Frazer Tombs Deir al-Adhra

Zawiyyet al-Mayyiteen River Oasis Al-Kharga Al-Qusiya Beni Hasan Asyut Tell al-Amarna White Monastery Abu Teeg Red Monastery To Saqqara(85km); Memphis (87km); Cairo (115km) Al-Araba al-Madfunah 54 Christian and Islamic periods, although Qena Christian andIslamicperiods, although area remained abackwater the throughout Cairo. outside this area hasthelargest Copticcommunities to thestrength of theChristiantradition: tinue tofunctioninthearea are atestament many churches andmonasteries thatcon- intheprovinces.aged prieststosettle The encour- Desert by StAnthonyintheEastern larity of themonastictraditionestablished splitsinAlexandriaandthepopu- Sectarian ated with a deity. few placesalongtheNilenotalready associ- (nearmodern Mallawi),Akhetaten oneof the hood bymoving toanewcity, hiscapital Dependant onagriculture, much of the Christianity arrived earlyinUpperEgypt. To Jaja(80km) Sohag Abydos Monastery of Akhmin St Anthony 218 Valley oftheKings Al-Balyana (Arabian) Hammadi Eastern Desert Nag Monastery of StPaul Razagat Armant Zafarana 50miles 80km 0 0 Dendara Esna

Gharib

Qena Ras Gulf 53

Luxor

2 Karnak of Qus Qift lonelyplanet.com

To PortSafaga(50km); Hurghada (100km) Suez 88 77 To Aswan (110km) 44 66 To Al-Quseir S INA (110km); Red Sea NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA

219 The The ) , next , next stands stands kushari, kushari, a 9am-4pm) Bank of Alexandria ta’amiyya h (Sharia Safiyya Zaghloul;

and a 232 2092; fax 231 6017; Sharia 232 2092; fax 231 6017; Sharia % (

post office (Monastery of the Virgin) is is the Virgin) of (Monastery (adult/student E£20/10; (adult/student E£20/10;

(fava bean paste) and bean paste) (fava 9am-2pm Sun-Thu). 8.30am-2.30pm Sat-Thu) Should you be allowed to board a bus, the Should From Beni Suef, a road runs east across There is a There important to have an American consulate, American consulate, an important to have the travel- little to capture is now but there Deir al-Adhra The mountain river. the 130m above perched that all Egyptian its name from a legend takes annual on the monastery’s birds paused here was formerly known day. The monastery feast the of the Pulley, a reminder of as the Convent Cairo and Giza, and south to Minya. Cairo and Giza, and south bus station is along the main road, Sharia Buses the town centre. Bur Said, south of 6am to 6pm to Cairo,run from about Minya and Al-Fayoum. the desert to Zafarana on the Red Sea. There is a daily bus to Zafarana to four (E£20, three at the turn-off The bus will stop to hours). ), about p418 St Anthony ( of the Monastery Beni it is a 130km east of Suef. From there the monastery. further 12km to GEBEL AT-TEIR & FRAZER TOMBS (Bird Mountain) Gebel at-Teir like The cliff the Nile, some 93km rises on the east bank of Beni Minya. south of Suef and 20km north of h Sleeping & Eating Semiramis Hotel Safiyya Zaghloul; s/d/tr E£51.50/75.50/83.50; is this two-star hotel for at least 80 years, the train station. Rooms have just north of Those without bathrooms and TV. private Its restau- about E£20 cheaper. are air-con meal rant serves chicken or a filling kebab cheap are for around E£30. There Getting There & Away train connections north to frequent are There ler’s interest. It is close to the Pyramid of close It is of to the Pyramid ler’s interest. Al- of ) and the oasis area p210 ( Meidum can be just ), but both places p207 ( Fayoum a small There’s from Cairo. as easily visited museum lower floor building. The to the governorate floor antiquities, the upper displays local contains Coptic and Islamic objects from the area. h (Sharia just off Midan Sa’ad Zaghloul, al-Gomhuriyya; fuul train station. around the best place to stay in town, as it has been best place to stay in town, as it has been TO QENA •• Beni Suef BENI SUEF NILE VALLEY:

082 / pop 3.8 million Today much of the region remains poor. poor. remains the region of Today much

Getting Around south of Cairo. From antiquity until at least at least From antiquity until Cairo. south of the 16th century it was famous for its linen, and in the 19th century was still sufficiently % Beni capital, 120km Suef is a provincial BENI SUEF BENI SUEF time for delays at the checkpoints, where where time for delays at the checkpoints, (see vehicles the escort will need to change boxed text, p220 ). by vehicle, armed police may accompany may accompany armed police by vehicle, you. If they do, you should try to allow extra and villages, but the police may put them but the police may put them and villages, to travel If you have off limits to foreigners. Wherever possible, try to stick to trains in possible, try to stick to trains in Wherever buses, A good network of Egypt. this part of service taxis taxis and pick-up links towns text, text, p220 . thanks to heavy-handed police measures; for for police measures; thanks to heavy-handed , and the boxed below information, see more to Cairo and south to Luxor and Aswan. to Cairo Aswan. and south to Luxor and the only vi- and taxis are vehicles Private although they can be slower, able alternative, and out of this part of the country. There the country. There this part of and out of services frequent are both north heading Getting There & Away Getting There & Away in for getting recommended Trains are the violence eventually petered out but the out but the the violence eventually petered and thwarted – poverty the unrest causes of hopes – remain. state. The security forces responded by by The security state. forces responded tactics, dishing out some heavy-handed 1990s. Religious militants exploited the situ- 1990s. Religious militants exploited towards the the violence ation and directed an Islamic in a bid to create government people from this region had found work had found work people from this region into violence in the in the 1980s, exploded at their lack of hope, compounded by the hope, compounded by the at their lack of many from Iraq, where remittances of loss drift in increasing numbers into the towns into the towns numbers drift in increasing work. Resentment and cities in search of hardship, particularly for young people who young people who hardship, particularly for economy, but cannot absorb the population cannot absorb the population economy, but industrial base real any lack of growth. The Cairo has causedsouth of economic severe Agriculture is still the mainstay of the the the mainstay is still of Agriculture of Safaga, while Asyut linked the Nile with linked Safaga, while Asyut of Desertthe Western and the Darb al-Arba’een caravan route. and Asyut flourished as trading hubs: Qena hubs: Qena as trading flourished and Asyut Red Sea point for the jumping-off was the port Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA landing (E£1),where youcantake thecar From Samalut,pick-upsruntotheNileboat from MinyatoSamalutcostsE£5E£10. ormicrobus taxi police allowit,aservice after Coptic Easter. Feastweek-long of theAssumption, 40days for mostof theyear,ismobbed duringthe raculous powers. Themonastery, unvisited iconofwhose thevirgin tohave is said mi- thecave,A 19th-centurybuildingencloses mother of ByzantineEmperorConstantine. in the4thcenturyADisascribedtoHelena, Egypt.through Acave-chapel builtonthesite rested here for three daysontheirjourney the top. cliff time whenropewastheonlywayof reaching 220 Coptic traditionclaimsthattheHolyFamily The village toMinyaand,ifthe isclosest time foryourflight home. Asenseofhumourwill also help. expense andhave timefordelays:thisisnota placetobeworryingaboutgetting Cairo in were leftalonecompletely. Ouradviceistogoonlyifyou are prepared forsetbacksandextra insistence: toahotel, escorted wethenmanagedtoslip the surveillance. Andinafew placeswe a plain-clothedagent,whohidhisweapon andradio).Inothers,wewere surprisedtofindlittle not even (althoughwemanagedto insiston allowedtowalkoutofourhotel withoutanescort was mixed. Insomeplaceswewere upbypoliceaswestepped picked offatrainorbus and was hisadvice. visitors staytogetherinthetemple andonlyallowingthemanhourfortheir visit.‘Don’tgo’ person complainingthatalong-awaited triptoAbydoswasruinedbypolicemeninsistingthat shared taxisormicrobuses. Manytravellers have criticisedthisintrusive policepresence, one your tripbecauseifyouare youare tobeforcedtravel escorted, likely byprivate taxis,not your movements andalter theexperienceofyour visit.They mayalsoaddtotheexpenseof journey safer (althoughsomebelieve youmore theymake ofatarget), buttheywillalsorestrict be lawwhenyougotravelling. confusing, thesituationcanchangedaybyday:whatwaslawattime ofwritingmaynot youmayberefusedMinya, permission toleave yourhotel inQena. thingsmore Andtomake prefer ataxiin toerronthesideofcaution.Sowhileyoumaybeableboardabusortake ers travelling intheregion. Butultimate responsibility rests withlocalofficials,manyofwhom Cairo andLuxor are stillbanned.RecentlytheInterior easedrestrictions onforeign- Ministry lifted theirtravel advisories, but securitycontinuestobeheavyhandedandcruisesbetween ate leadersdeclared andWestern theuseofviolencetobeamistake embassiesinEgypt have venture here were accompaniedbyheavilyarmedpoliceescorts. incidents ofmilitantsshootingatpeopleontheiropenupperdecks. The few foreigners whodid ground toahaltandNilecruiseboatsstoppedrunningbetweenCairo andLuxor after several government oneofitsmainforeign-currency byattacking sources,tourism.Unsurprisingly,tourism ofGama’aal-Islamiyya,the‘IslamicGroup’,whotriedtotopple up inthisviolence,victims deaths, mostlyofpolicemenandmilitantsintheearlymid-1990s. Touristswere often caught UpperEgypt wasthecentreNorthern ofanIslamistinsurgency thatsawmore thanathousand NILE VALLEY TROUBLES IEVLE:BN UFT EA • ee tTi rzrTms NILE VALLEY: at-Teir BENISUEFTOQENA••Gebel &FrazerTombs For more informationonthe ‘curse oftheconvoys’,seeboxed text ( p530 ). But securityisrelaxing inplacesandourexperienceoftravelling between Luxor andCairo This situationwillaffect your yourjourney.Agroupofheavilyarmedpolicemenmaymake No foreigners have inthearea beenattacked sincethelate 1990s. The group’smore moder- rarely visited sites. likely toappealonlyifyouhave apassionfor eroglyphs butnocolourfulscenesandare very erodedimages simple,contain andhi- valley. Onlytwotombsare openandboth, overlookingcut intotheeast-bank cliffs, the OldKingdomtombsaredynasties. These the mood. driver’s abilityandthedepending onyourhaggling return tripbutmaybeasmuch asE£100, Minya should cost E£30toE£55forthe to avoid alongwait.Aprivate from taxi not manypassengers, soprepare topayextra ing toDeiral-Adhra, butthere are usually E£2). Pick-upsrunfromtheeast-bank land- ferry or,ifitisrunning,thefelucca (both Five kilometres southof Tihna al-Gebel, Frazer Tombs Frazer date backtothe5thand6th lonelyplanet.com NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 221 B4 C2 B3 B1 C2 B1 B1 B3 B2 D3 B1 B2 B2 C3 B2 B4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 236 6743, 236 6743, % 9 To Tourist Police (90m); Tourist To Mustashfa Gama’a (200m); 00 300 m 0.2 miles Zawiyyet al-Mayyiteen (7km) New Minya Museum (150m); Bridge; Public Hospital (100m); (University Hospital; Palace Hotel...... Koshary Nagwa...... Mohamed Restaurant...... Savoy Restaurant...... Samalut)...... Upper Egypt Bus Co...... Banque Misr...... Passport Office...... Tourist Office...... Mosque...... Restaurant...... Bank of Alexandria...... Main Post Office...... National Bank of Egypt...... Tourist Office & Centrale...... Western Union...... Dahabiyya Houseboat & King Akhenaton Hotel...... C2 Microbuses & Service Taxis (for INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING TRANSPORT 236 4527; Amarat el-Gama’a) 123) % ( % (

er iv R ile N 11 1 14 Souq EMERGENCY EMERGENCY 234 2505; Midan Suzanne Mubarak/Sharia Corniche an-Nil) Mustashfa Gama’a Upper Egypt. With broad tree-lined streets, streets, tree-lined With broad Egypt. Upper if shabby, some great, and corniche a wide Minya buildings, central early-20th-century graceful era. a more of feel the has retained the this was one of our visit, of At the time places to visit between Cairo most relaxed and Luxor. Information Ambulance Tourist police MEDICAL SERVICES il -N an e 4

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To Aton Hotel; To a d Z Restaurant (750m) eb aa agh S SUEF TO QENA •• Minya BENI NILE VALLEY: R

Ibrahimiyya Canal 086 / pop 261,872 086 / When Minya was caught up in the 1990s When Minya was caught up in the 1990s

MINYA To Beni To Suef (125km); Cairo (245km) is good news for visitors because Minya has because Minya has is good news for visitors in most pleasant the town centres one of dot the town centre, but the violence has the violence has but dot the town centre, and security down, which abated stepped tanks and armoured personnel carriers. carriers. personnel tanks and armoured that period still Some police posts from Islamist insurgency, the government sent sent the government Islamist insurgency, Upper and Lower Egypt. A provincial capital A provincial Egypt. Upper and Lower Cairo, the capital it was of 245km south of but its fac- cotton trade, the Upper Egyptian soap process sugar and produce tories now and perfume. Minya, the ‘Bride of Upper Egypt’ (Arous (Arous Upper Egypt’ Minya, the ‘Bride of between on the boundary as-Sa’id), sits MINYA MINYA % lonelyplanet.com NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA leisurely ridearoundthetowncentre or hour E£25toE£35)canberented fora Supposedly 24hrbut rarely staffed. h Corniche an-Nil. Has an ATM. 2pm Sun-Thu) Changes foreign currency. office; strange and thought-provoking sight. the largest cemeteries inthe world, itisa tobeone ofthe roadtohills andsaid brick mausoleums. Stretching for 4kmfrom the Dead),consists of hundred several mud- etery, called town, alarge Muslim andChristiancem- for a picnic. river Island, which isgood andtoBanana posite thetouristoffice fortripsalongthe hour E£30)canberented atthelandingop- torboats, perhourE£50)andfeluccas (per Tahrir are amongtheliveliest. and thestreets thatrunfromittoMidan ket) atthesouthernendof thetowncentre along thecorniche. There isasouq(mar- al-Amarna. Tell aswellothertreasuresBerlin, fromnearby the iconicbustof Nefertiti, Queen nowin will behome,forsomemonths atleast,to The new haveHills, Minyadoesn’t manysights. flow againstthebackgroundof theEastern the towncentre andwatching theNile thepleasure ofBeyond walkingaround Sights &Activities office Passport VISA EXTENSIONS office Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION postoffice Main POST Union Western National Bank Banque Misr Bank ofAlexandria MONEY 222 h h the Egyptian authoritiescanswingit,it the eastbank,isduetoopenin2010.If On theeastbankabout 7kmsoutheastof Hantours 9am-3.30pm Sat-Thu); 9am-2pm Sun-Thu) Has an ATM. 9am-7pm Sat-Thu) h IEVLE:BN UFT EA • iy NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••Minya 8.30am-2pm Sat-Thu) Corniche Sharia Off an-Nil. Minya Museum Minya (Midan as-Sa’a; (Midan

Sharia Cornichean-Nil (horse-drawn carriages; per

of Egypt of Egypt ( Zawiyyet al-Mayyiteen ( % % ( h (Sharia al-Gomhuriyya; al-Gomhuriyya; (Sharia 236 4193; 2nd fl, above Main post 236 4193;2ndfl,aboveMain 236 4905; Sharia al-Gomhuriyya; al-Gomhuriyya; 236 4905;Sharia 8.30am-2pm Sat-Thu) Sharia Off train station (Sharia al-Gomhuriyya; al-Gomhuriyya; (Sharia h , slowlyrisingon 8.30am-2pm Sun-Thu) ( % ( % 236 0150; Lunches 234 2044) (Placeof h 9am- (mo- a busy corner restaurant, serves goodrotis- a busycorner restaurant, serves an-Nil; dishesE£20-35) satellite TV andfridges, andbreakfast isbuffet satellite TV here. Roomshave complaints about the service there andcentral,although fortable have been are iscom- booming,the48-roomAkhenaton E£98/128; Cornichean-Nil;s/dwithNileview .kingakhenaton.8m.com; leaves. person rant (dishes E£8toE£15)worksuntilthelast buttend tobenoisyastherestau- and TV, The smallcabinsare allequippedwithfan the upperdeckandaccommodationbelow. most unusualaddress, witharestaurant on years, butrecently refurbished, itisMinya’s Corniche nearthetouristoffice formany moored boathasbeen sailing alongthe 3596/5596; Cornichean-Nil;s/dE£30/60) are sometimesreluctant to accept foreigners. noisy, bathroomscommunalandtheowners Minya’s bestbudget hotel. Butroomsare time-warp atmosphere should make this Pharaonic murals,oldtourismposters and ceilings,hand-painted location,high Central in the hotels. basic placeslisted here, yourbestbetistoeat optionsareers. Eating few. Apartfromthe daysmanyarethese notacceptingforeign- ofMinya hasadecentselection hotels, but Sleeping &Eating addition of widescreen TV. makes agoodalternative, with the though weather isgood, theoutdoorterrace grill Ifthe and milkpudding).Alcohol isserved. from lentilsoupandgrillsto andgoodEgyptian cuisine, friendly service Aton Hotel isyear-round dependable for pool. and views. There are twogoodrestaurants, abar equipped bungalowroomshave great Nile was formerlyassociated. Many of thewell- teresting Mercure Nefertiti, withwhich it road fromthemore expensive andlessin- on thewestbankof theNileand across the Aton isabout 1km northof thetowncentre, Minya’s tophotel, thefriendly,comfortable (itsformerincarnation)andstill as theEtap Nil; s/dUS$30/40; maybeable to style. Staff arrange transport. King Akhenaton Hotel Akhenaton King Houseboat&Restaurant Dahabiyya Palace Hotel Savoy Banana IslandRestaurant Hotel Aton

a Restaurant ) Oneof twohotels intownthat ( %

( as % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 234 2993/4;fax1517;Cornichean- The mainrestaurant of the 324 021; Midan Tahrir; s/dE£25/40) 324 021;Midan

(Midan al-Mahatta; dishes E£5-20) al-Mahatta; (Midan ) Still referred tolocally

( ( % % om ali 234 2993/4;Corniche 236 5917/8;www ThisoldNile (hotbread ( % 236 ,

NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 223 A guard will accompany you from the from the you will accompany A guard as the fine paintings, the tomb has a long, addresses Amenemhat in which faded text life ‘You who love to his chapel: the visitors and bread death, say: Thousandsand hate of beer, cattle and wild fowl for thousands of prince…the Great the hereditary the ka of Oryx Nome…’. the Chief of watched over by the nomarch. Notice the yo- nomarch. by the over watched positions on the right-hand wall, be- galike and herding. wine-making of tween images Tomb of Amenemhat (No 2) Amenemhat was a 12th-dynasty governor and pos- Oryx. His tomb is the largest of that and, like sibly the best at Beni Hasan façade and Khnumhotep, impressive its of decoration mark a clear departure interior ones. Entered modest earlier from the more through a columned doorway and with its six columns intact, it contains beautifully farming, hunting, manu- scenes of executed to the deceased, facturing and offerings well who can also be seen with his dogs. As are being counted. A hunting scene in the being counted. are the among desert mythical creatures shows a sequenceshows gazelles. The back wall of still usedtoday. that are moves wrestling with The rightwall is decorated (south) with daily life, scenes from the nomarch’s and a flax harvest, metalworkers potters, among others. Tomb of Kheti (No 17) Kheti, Baqet’s the governor- son, inherited His the Oryx nome from his father. ship of its original six with two of tomb chapel, papyrus columns intact, has many vivid scenes that show hunting, linen painted production, board games, metalwork, wres- them and dancing, most of tling, acrobatics least E£10). Try to seeleast E£10). chrono- the tombs as follows. logically, (No 15) Tomb of Baqet the of Baqet governor was an 11th-dynasty tomb (district). His rectangular Oryx nome has seven some well- and tomb shafts chapel preservedinclude Baqet wall paintings. They weav- on the left wall watching and his wife and acrobats – mostly women in diapha- ers in flexible poses. Further along, nous dresses Baqet, possessions of animals, presumably ticket office, so baksheesh is expected (at (at office, so baksheeshis expected ticket

. The popular . The popular

(adult/student E£25/15; 236 3721; Sharia Saad kushari %

( (Sharia al-Gomhuriyya; dishes

(Sharia dishes E£5-15) al-Hussaini;

Beni Hasan SUEF TO QENA •• Beni Hasan BENI NILE VALLEY: occupies a range of east-bank east-bank of occupies a range Koshary Nagwa has hourly services to Cairo (E£12, serves good, basic

Upper Egypt Bus Co 8am-5pm)

Trains heading south leave fairly frequently, fairly frequently, Trains heading south leave of the period. of the trouble of visiting for the glimpse they the trouble of and political tensions daily life of provide Many remain unfinished and only four are and only four are unfinished remain Many worth but they are open to visitors, currently tombs date from the 11th and 12th dynas- tombs date ties (2125–1795 BC), the 39 upper tombs or ‘nomarchs’. belonging to local governors limestone cliffs some 20km south of Minya. limestone cliffs Minya. some 20km south of It is a superb and important location. Most The necropolis of h ping at Asyut (E£13/8), Sohag (E£21/13) and (E£13/8), Sohag ping at Asyut Qena (E£31/19). BENI HASAN Luxor (E£49/32) and Aswan (E£60/39), stop- Luxor (E£49/32) and Aswan ‘special’ trains that come from Cairo, no- one stops you from taking the one you want. Seven 1st-/2nd-class trains go all the way to with the fastest trains departing from Minya with the fastest between and 1am. Although around 11pm supposed only the two to take are foreigners goes on to Alexandria) and 6.50pm. Tickets goes on to Alexandria) and 6.50pm. Tickets in 1st-class cost E£30 to E£40, in 2nd-class to E£29. E£27 only 1st- and 2nd-class carriages and leave and leave only 1st- and 2nd-class carriages at 5.55am, 6.30am, 8.50am, 4.30pm (which TRAIN TRAIN have Trains to Cairo to four hours) (three at checkpoints. service taxis possible delays because of SERVICE TAXI SERVICE TAXI writing, the police and driv- At the time of from using discouraging foreigners were ers four hours) from 6am and to Asyut (E£10, two (E£10, to Asyut from 6am and four hours) buses you can catch to Luxor where hours), at Hurghada for Buses leave and New Valley. six hours). (E£14, 10.30am, 4pm and 11pm The Zaghloul) Getting There & Away Getting There & Away BUS ery and patisserie. ery serves packed and salads basic grills on a street from juice standswith food options, to a bak- the street, the street, E£2-12) Mohamed Restaurant serie chicken and kebabs in the fan-cooled the fan-cooled in and kebabs serie chicken Just down away. take or you can restaurant lonelyplanet.com NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA mummies, andotherartefacts from nearby Ptolemaic priest,baboon andpencil-thin ibis sculpture of includingalimestone statue a Fri) (admission E£20/10; linger over, inthe two-storey even the townisnowcalmer,butthere’s littleto armed rebellion theearly1990s, throughout (see p42 al-Islambouli. Acentre), Khalid of the hometownof President Sadat’sassassin west bank, kilometresForty-eight southof Minyaonthe BENI HASANTOTELLAL-AMARNA to E£10ifyou’re by yourself. person ifthere are ormore eight passengers, tickets are onaslidingscalefromE£2per from there totheferry landing.Returnboat bus fromMinyatoAbu Qirqusandapick-up police. Itmayalsobepossibletotake amicro- Currently are private taxis notescorted by atthesite.ing skillsandhowlongyoustay E£50 toE£100,dependingonyourbargain- fromMinyawillcostanything A taxi Getting There&Away shethough reigned longafter the event. how she restored orderafter theHyksos,even on itsupperfaçade,aninscriptiondescribing scenes of Hatshepsut makingofferings and, Onthewallsarean unfinished sanctuary. hewnHathor-headedroughly columnsand lion-goddess Pakht. There isasmallhallwith itwasdedicated tothe III (1479–1425BC), andcompleted byTuthmosis (1473–1458 BC) byHatshepsutto the18thdynasty.Started ther itsGreek norArabnamesforitdates back nei- warrior-poet andfolkhero),itdeserves of anArab (theStable Antar, Antar as Istabl Artemidos into awaditotherock-cuttemple of southeast forabout 2.5km,thensome500m faces andbeardsare all distinct. bringing offerings fromAsia –theirclothes, the leftwallisarepresentation of adelegation Alsoon scribe isshown recording theharvest. farmers are showntending theircropswhilea of plant,animalandbirdlife. On theleftwall is famousforitsrich, finelyrendered scenes painted scenes.Thetomb the mostdetailed of inscribed onthebase wallsthatcontain ‘autobiography’is detailed Khnumhotep’s Governor duringtheearly12thdynasty, Tomb ofKhnumhotep(No3) 224 , which displaystombpaintings, glassware, If the police allow it, a cliffside trackleads If thepoliceallowit,acliffside IEVLE:BN UFT EA • eiHsnt ela-mra NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••BeniHasantoTell al-Amarna (Grottoof Artemis). Knownlocally Mallawi h isinfamousinEgypt as 9am-2pm Sat-Tue &Thu,tonoon museum Speos

necropolis of Hermopolis. Given thelack of Tuna al- Gebel and then5kmalongaroadintothedesert, you willbeexpected to pay baksheesh. cially free, butifyouarrive withapoliceescort isoffi- The‘open-airmuseum’ giant phalluses. first though removingbaboon statues, their basilica, which reused the columnsandeven most interesting ruins are fromtheCoptic from nearbyTell al-Amarna, The alsosurvive. II,usingstoneplundered a pylonof Ramses uity. AMiddleKingdomtemple gateway and temple, which wasrebuilt antiq- throughout supported partofas ababoon.These Thoth’s quartzite of statues Thoth 14th-century-BC the moststrikingruinsbeingtwocolossal city’s Greek name, ‘Hermopolis’. identified withtheirgodHermes, hencethe of wisdomandwriting,whomtheGreeks cultcentrealso animportant of Thoth,god peared outof thewaters of chaos. Thiswas myth, existed here before thefirst earthap- gods that,accordingtooneEgyptian creation Town) refers tofourpairs of snake andfrog 15th UpperEgyptian nome,itsname(Eight of of theancientcityof the Capital Khemenu. town of Al-Ashmunein, ticular chronological order. Hermopolis innopar- andTunaal-Gebel, faithful. The subterranean cemetery extends and embalmedby thePtolemaicandRoman ofthousands mummifiedbaboons, sacrificed mified ibis,the‘living image of Thoth’,and comb galleriesonce heldmillionsof mum- sacred animalsof Hermopolis. Thedarkcata- the 5km pastthevillage of are Tunaal-Gebel, figures of three of their daughters. offering thesidesare tables; inscribedwith ues of thepharaoh andhiswife Nefertiti hold anywhere Totheleft, two damaged else. stat- lands andassociated villages, nortobeburied beyond thiswestern limitof thecity’s farm- toexpandhiscity vownever ries Akhenaten’s ary of theroyalcity.Thelarge stonestele car- you passoneof 14stelae markingthebound- (see Akhenaten opposite ), andalongtheroad theshort-lived of capital Akhetaten, Pharaoh tourist office ( p222 ) thatthesite is open. tourists inthearea, check withtheMinya Several kilometres southofSeveral Hermopolis kilometresEight northof Mallawi, nearthe At one time Tuna al-Gebel belongedAt onetimeTunaal-Gebel to Little remains of thewealthyancientcity, South of thestele, which islocated about catacombs (admission E£25; andtombsof theresidents and Hermopolis h 8am-5pm) lonelyplanet.com isthesite wasthe NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 225 , which , which (adult/student Tell al-Amarna necropolis al-Amarna Tell 8am-4pm Oct-May, to 5pm Jun-Sep) h In all, there are 25 tombs cut into the base 25 tombs cut into are In all, there There used the site to be a bus for touring There Akhetaten for all time was abandoned because, value the site unlike Archaeologists Two groups of cliff 8km apart, Two groups of tombs, about NORTHERN TOMBS NORTHERN TOMBS Tomb of Huya (No 1) Akhenaten’s mother, of Huya was the steward scenes to the right and relief Queen Tiye, the entrance to his tomb show and left of dining with her son and his family. On Tiye but it was not running at the time of our visit. but it was not running at the time of way the only viable is so large, the site As taxi visiting is to come by private or with of own car. your from one to six in the the cliffs,of numbered north, and seven the south. Not all to 25 in (No 3 to only five open to the public and are light. have 6 and the royal tomb) currently transport, the guards may if you have Even tombs and be unwilling to open the unlighted you, the lighted tombs even if they will take visitors Many the best reliefs. contain some of find the southern tombs a disappointment Be to there. sure getting the hassle of after possibility no is currently as there bring water the site. buying any at of romance of Akhenaten’s doomed project, but Akhenaten’s doomed project, romance of across the desert plain, are the ruins, scattered near tombs nowhere the hard to understand, or well preserved along as others as interesting be disappointing. the Nile, and the visit can Tell al-Amarna Necropolis up the make E£25/15; though wall defaced, some coloured, features revolution. during the Aten life paintings of or adminis- and private temples Remains of a wide across scattered buildings are trative imperial city. all, an this was, after area: son by a minor wife, changed his name from changed wife, son by a minor Tutankhaten to Tutankhamun (1336–1327 the capitalBC), to Thebes, re- back moved at Thebes, Amun established of the cult to the Theban priesthood power restored and brought as the to an end what is known Akhetaten into ruin, its fell ‘Amarna Period’. quarried during the reign palaces and temples Ramses and of Hermopolis II for buildings in other cities. it was occupied for just most places in Egypt, by the attracted are visitors Many one reign. after Akhenaten’s death. His successor, a Akhenaten’sa successor, death. His after Tomb was built by a was built by al-Amarna SUEF TO QENA •• Tell BENI NILE VALLEY: Tomb of Petosiris Tomb of , its teeth, hair and fingernails hair and fingernails , its teeth, , a wealthy woman who drowned in , a wealthy woman who

mummy The guard may open several other tombs The nearby

They also built a new city, Akhetaten, They also built a new city, Akhetaten, All buses to or from Minya and Asyut stop stop All buses and Asyut to or from Minya from north to south. Bounded by the river from north to south. Bounded by the river high cliffs, by a bay of this was and backed 30 years. for some Egypt the capital of Amarna, a beautiful yet solitary crescent- 10km about extends shaped plain, which the Nile, in the area now known as Tell al- now known as Tell the Nile, in the area sun disc. Nefertiti abandoned the gods and priests gods and priests the abandoned Nefertiti and established a new religion Karnak of the god of Aten, based of on the worship In the fifth year of his reign, Pharaoh Pharaoh his reign, In the fifth year of Akhenaten (1352–1336 BC) queen and his TELL AL-AMARNA TELL AL-AMARNA of day, you should be able to flag down a day, you should be able to flag down a of pick-up truck. is 7km west of Hermopolis and, depend- Hermopolis is 7km west of ing on the security and the time situation road. From the junction you can either walk road. From the junction you can either walk or coax the short distance to Hermopolis Tuna al-Gebel further. to go a bit your driver service taxi from Mallawi to Al-Ashmunein; service to Al-Ashmunein; taxi from Mallawi is 1km from the main to the site the turn-off trains. If the security situation allows, for trains. If the security allows, for situation a local microbus or you can take Hermopolis in Mallawi, as do the slow 2nd- and 3rd-class the slow 2nd- and 3rd-class as do in Mallawi, depending on the time you want to spend and skills. bargaining your is by taxi continuing perhaps from Minya, Expect E£200, to pay E£100 to on to Asyut. The easiest way to get around these three sites around these sites The easiest way to get three an’s clearly visible. Getting There & Away (AD 138–161). The tomb has few decora- has few (AD 138–161). The tomb tions, but does contain wom- the unfortunate of Isadora of Isadora Pius Antoninus of the Nile during the rule (for a tip), the most interesting being the (for a tip), the most interesting period. His templelike tomb, like his sar- his like tomb, templelike period. His Museum in Cairo, the Egyptian cophagus in The wonderful influence. Greek shows early the deceased farming and of reliefs coloured influ- Greek also show offerings being given dress. Greek wearing ence, with the figures high priest of Thoth from the early Ptolomaic from the early Ptolomaic Thoth high of priest for at least 3km, perhaps even all the way even way all the perhaps least 3km, for at You need to explore a torch to Hermopolis. the galleries. lonelyplanet.com Horizon of the Aten, on the east bank of bank of on the east the Aten, Horizon of NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA the leftwall of thecolumned chamber, being priestofHigh theAten, Meryre isshown,on Tomb ofMeryre I(No4) listening to an orchestra. lower register inthepalace showsthemseated Aten temple, followedbyarmedguards.The shows theroyalcoupleontheirway tothe the artists’different stages. Theupperregister corridor leadingtotheburialchamber shows was unfinished:theleft-ha Hand’.Right Much of histombdecoration titlewas‘Fan-bearerAhmose’s ontheKing’s Tomb ofAhmose(No3) wine for Akhenaten. you willfindasceneshows Nefertiti pouring andtotheleftofhousehold, theentrance, Meryre IIwassuperintendent of Nefertiti’s Tomb ofMeryre II(No2) Nefertiti. with on theleftwall,sittinginacarryingchair to asmalltemple hehasbuiltforherand, hismother isshownber, Akhenaten taking wallofthe right thiscolumnedouter cham- 226 1 3 2 HERMOPOLIS, TUNAAL-GEBEL&TELLAL-AMARNA IEVLE:BN UFT EA • ela-mra NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••Tell al-Amarna AC 8 2 Dalga al-Gebel Tuna al-Gebel Tuna Bahr Yusef nd wallof thelong To Al-Qusiya(35km); Hermopolis Asyut (70km) B Al-Ashmunein To Minya Dairut (40km) Deir Mawas Mallawi

royal coupleare shownmakingofferings to wall,the the royalcouple. Ontheright-hand carried byhisfriendstoreceive rewards from the Copts, whoaddedanave tothe innerwall first chamber’s fourcolumnswere removed by thetwomainchambers.between Twoof the a fatoldmanon the leftwallof thepassage Panehsy appears withdwarfservants. as BC), married toPharaoh Horemheb (1323–1295 passage, Nefertiti’s sister Mutnodjmet,later chariot wallof and,onthe right theentrance royal family,includingNefertiti drivingher most others have lost.Inside,scenesof the retains thedecoratedin Akhetaten, façade The tombof of Panehsy, theAten chief servant Tomb ofPanehsy (No6) appointed their physician. family attheAten temple andof Pentu being ridor isdecorated withimages of theroyal simple tomb.Theleft-handwallof thecor- Pentu, theroyalphysician,wasburiedina Tomb ofPentu (No5) of a rainbow. the Aten disc;note here therare depiction

Canal Ibrahimiyya

Nile River Ferry al-Amarna 4 Tell At-Till 3 1 Tomb ofIsadora...... (see8) Tomb ofPetosiris...... Southern Tombs...... Royal TombofAkhenaten...... Northern Tombs...... North Palace...... Great TempleofAten...... Catacombs...... iktOfc...... C2 Ticket Office...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION 7 5 lonelyplanet.com Wadi an- are borderstelae Nonkeyed ruins 0 0 D Nakhla Wadi Darb al-Malek 1 mile 6 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2 km A1 C3 D3 D2 C2 C2 A1 NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF

TO QENA , 227 , is a , is a (Church of of (Church Church of St Michael Burnt Monastery Church of al-Azraq beside the church is an independ- beside the church keep Monks believe the monastery’s religious religious Monks believe the monastery’s The for now you need to take a taxi from either you needfor now a taxi to take from either and cross on the Minya or Mallawi Asyut, Expect (per car E£15). to car ferry irregular E£100 to E£200 depending as pay as much you startyou want and how long on where to stay. tombs you Be to specify which sure four floors can servefour floors as a minimonastery, with its own small complete accommodation and even burial a refectory, the altar. space behind Isaiah. of in the Book significance is given from Herod. This was their longest stay at This was their longest from Herod. are they places where the numerous any of Coptic tradi- in Egypt. rested said to have tion claims the is the and the cave sits over the Anointed) consecrated world’s oldest Christian church, certain of is the presence around AD 60. More since the 4th century. The here monastic life from the 12th to 13th building dates current contains two centuries. Unusually, the church iconostases. the altar The one to the left of Sts Peter of came from an Ethiopian Church Other used which on the roof. to sit and Paul, displayed in objects from the Ethiopians are the church. the hall outside in the 12th and ent 7th-century tower, rebuilt its by drawbridge, 20th centuries. Reached on an escarpment at the edge of the desert, of edge on an escarpment at the in hotels no are There Mir. lie the Tombs of to let you unlikely Al-Qusiya and police are guesthouse just outside the stay at the large Deir al- walls of pseudo-medieval crenellated can be visited both sites Muharraq. Happily, the Minya or Asyut, in an easy day trip from by car. being just an hour away latter Sights DEIR AL-MUHARRAQ Deir al-Muharraq, the where and vows refuge pilgrimage, place of be ex- Coptic traditions can of the strength monks believe perienced. The 120 resident on this a cave inhabited and Jesus that Mary fleeing and 10 days after for six months site want to visit, or your driver may refuse to go to go refuse may or your driver want to visit, sites. far-flung to AL-QUSIYA the small southwest of about 8km Located Al-Qusiya, 35km south of town of rural Deir al- complex of is the Coptic Mallawi, 7km further northwest, Muharraq. About

(additional ticket adult/student tomb SUEF TO QENA •• Al-Qusiya BENI NILE VALLEY: is in a ravine about 12km up the Royal about is in a ravine

large that it is impossible to visit on foot. So that it is impossible to visit on foot. So large starts running, is pointless: the site is so starts is so running, is pointless: the site Even if the security situation allows it, get- Even by public transport al-Amarna ting to Tell bus and, until the site a challenge remains Getting There & Away Getting There & Away ered. The whereabouts of his mummy remains his mummy remains of The whereabouts ered. a mystery. are KV55 in Luxor’s Valley of the Kings, where his the Kings, where of KV55 in Luxor’s Valley from Germanysarcophagus (newly returned Museum, Cairo)to the Egyptian was discov- certainly were. Some believe he was buried in certainly were. sarcophagus, now in the Egyptian Museumsarcophagus, in Egyptian now in the Akhenaten himself not was probably Cairo. his family of although members buried here, ily worshipping Aten. A raised Aten. rectangular ily worshipping once held the outline in the burial chamber the tomb. The right-hand side chamber has the tomb. The right-hand side chamber Akhenaten and his fam- of reliefs damaged valley. The guard will need to start up the inside little remains Very tomb’s generator. dawn. A well-laid road leads up the bleak dawn. A well-laid road leads up the bleak E£20/10) the valley that (Wadi Darb al-Malek), Valley the divides the north and south sections of the sun was seencliffs and where to rise each ROYAL TOMB OF AKHENATEN TOMB OF AKHENATEN ROYAL Akhenaten’s own leather riding gloves. Ay wasn’t buried here, Ay wasn’t buried here, leather riding gloves. the of the Valley but in the west valley beside at Thebes. ) p266 Kings ( Tiyi worshipping the sun and Ay receiving the sun and Ay receiving worshipping Tiyi from the royal family, including red- rewards 1327–1323 BC). His wife Tiyi was Nefertiti’s was Nefertiti’s 1327–1323 BC). Tiyi His wife the couple’s reflect here The images wet nurse. importance, including Ay and with scenes self (he succeeded Tutankhamun and reigned were simply ‘God’s Father’ and ‘Fan-bearer and ‘Fan-bearer simply ‘God’s Father’ were was vizier and he on the King’s Right Hand’ becoming one him- before pharaohs to three Tomb of Ay (No 25) Tomb of Ay (No 25) titles Ay’s al-Amarna. The finest tomb at Tell One of the best preserved the One of the southern tombs, Mahu’s details of interesting paintings show police, includ- of duties as Akhenaten’s chief (minister), to the vizier ing taking prisoners the temple. supplies and visiting checking SOUTHERN TOMBS TOMBS SOUTHERN Tomb of Mahu (No 9) and created a chapel – the remains of painted painted of – the remains a chapel and created the walls. seenwings can be angel on lonelyplanet.com NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA Sat-Wed) and remain unexcavated. open tothepublic; sixothers were unfinished Kingdoms. Nine tombs are decorated and escarpment during theOldandMiddle times alsoMeir), were dugintothebarren the The necropolis of thegovernors of or Cusae, TOMBS OFMIR drink inthemonastery’s reception room. the nearbygiftshopor,sometimes,with acool a briefvisittothenewchurch builtin1940or are appreciated. Visitssometimesfinishwith monastery andwhilethere isnofee, donations when visitors maynot be admitted. attend themonastery’s annualfeast, atime of(usually 21–28June),thousands pilgrims ofsanctity year theplace. every For aweek ing eitherchurch and respect thesilenceand painted by St Luke. the iconshowing the Virgin andChildwas are inByzantinestyle. Traditionhasitthat made frommarbleandmanyof theicons and otherreligious is scenes,itsiconostasis decorated withpaintingsof the12apostles sovereignwas stilltheofficial of Egypt. Itis who permission fromtheOttomansultan, George tion), here theystick to Coptic. Arabic (fortheirArabic-speaking congrega- asteries celebrate someof theCopticliturgy in there were 190of them)andwhileothermon- language untilthe19thcentury(atthattime Coptic tradition:monkshere spoke theCoptic The monastery hasdonemuch topreserve 228 You willusuallybeescorted aroundthe Also inthecompound, them. perform they willmake vowstotheLordand andburntoffering,with sacrifice and know theLordinthatdayandworship the Egyptians; andtheEgyptians will the Lordwillmake knownto himself and willdefend anddeliver them.And pressors themasaviour, hewillsend ofthey crytotheLordbecause op- of Hostinthelandof Egypt; when will beasignandwitnesstotheLord and apillartotheLordatitsborder. It Lord inthemidstof thelandof Egypt, In thatdaythere tothe willbeanaltar Remember toremove before shoes enter- Tombs ofMir IEVLE:BN UFT EA • su NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••Asyut (or Mar Girgis) wasbuiltin1880with astheyare commonlyknown(some-

(adult/student E£25/15; Isaiah 19:19-21 ChurchofSt h 9am-5pm plain borderingthewestbankof theNile during Pharaonic timesonabroadfertile Asyut, 375kmsouthof wassettled Cairo, % ASYUT to the monastery. Ideally, youcouldcombinethiswithavisit skills andhowlongyouspendatthesite. to E£35,dependingonyourbargaining totake youthere.taxi topayE£25 Expect the Tombsof Mir,soyou’llhave tohire a crobus to the monastery. Qusiya youmaybeable toget alocalmi- 50 minutes’ drive fromAsyut. FromAl- Asyut buswilldropyouatAl-Qusiya,about a busfromMinyathanAsyut. TheMinya– At thetimeof writingitwaseasiertaking Getting There&Away cow giving birth. the walldecorations.TombNo3features a to assisttheartistindesigninglayoutof theoriginalgriddrawnonwall still see gods were destroyed.IntombNo4youcan Coptic hermits,manyfacesandnamesof the but asthetombswere ascellsbyearly used 2 are inscribedwith720Pharaonic deities, plc escort. police You maystillfind yourself lumbered witha avisiblepresenceto maintain aroundhotels. years, the policecontinue quiet forseveral thetownhas now been Although tation. one of theearliestcentres of Islamist fomen- Egyptian entrepôt. Inthelate 1980sthiswas European newtownratherthanan ancient thatresembletion of anEastern high-rises for the harem. ers toprepare used someof theirmaleslaves before beingtraded,aperiodinwhich slav- slaves: caravans stoppedhere forquarantine of themaincommoditiestradedhere was mercially, ifnotpolitically.Forcenturiesone p333 com- important ), ithasalwaysbeen theboxed (see via Al-Kharga Oasis text, from sub-SaharanAfricaandSudantoAsyut end of oneof Africa’sgreat caravan routes, by rich agriculturallandandsittingatthe the 13thnomeof UpperEgypt. Surrounded name. As of Swaty,itwastheancientcapital anecho of antiquityinits and haspreserved Few vehicles fromAl-Qusiyagooutto Tomb No1andtheadjoiningtomb Much of modernAsyut isanagglomera- 088 lonelyplanet.com NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 229

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Mohamed Tawfik Mohamed Until the Nile-side On the east bank, 200m beyond the bar- Port Said Port rage, is the rage, in 1910 born Lillian Trasher came to Egypt 23. The following year she of at the age and stayed in Asyut founded an orphanage is until her death in 1961. The orphanage con- pride in a city with a heavy a place of welcome, are Copts. Visitors centration of most of the city still remains unexcavated and unexcavated the city still remains most of of the ancient tombs in the hills on the edge unvisited. currently the irrigation are city’s finest 19th-century buildings, has been and opened, the most accessible renovated wealth is the period of monument to Asyut’s Asyut barrage into the water the flow of and 1902 to regulate the of irrigation Ibrahimiyya Canal and assure valley as far north as Beni Suef, it also serves the barrage As across the Nile. as a bridge importance,still has strategic photography your to keep try is forbidden, so you should sight. of camera out Sights Sights has surpris- history, Asyut such For a city of for itself,ingly little to show partly because 26th July

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Tal 26th of July of 26th 9am-2pm & Casa Blanca Hotel...... Hotel al-Hussein...... Kushari Galal...... Bus Station & Service Taxis...... Mallawi...... Assiutel Hotel...... (see 8) Assiutel Hotel...... (see Restaurant.....Casablanca Sweet C2 Microbuses & Service Taxis for EATING TRANSPORT Youth Hostel...... Shayk Shepherd Akbar...... 9am-2pm

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h Asyut Barrage & Bridge & Barrage Asyut 11 233 4500; University of Asyut) 8.30am-3pm Sun-Thu) The very 8.30am-3pm Sun-Thu) To Lillian Trasher To Orphanage (500m) (Sharia Port Said; Same Scale as Main Map 232 3328; Sharia Farouk Kidwani) 232 3328; Sharia Farouk 231 0010; 1st fl, Governorate Bldg, % SUEF TO QENA •• Asyut BENI NILE VALLEY: Old Asyut (Midan Talaat Harb; (Midan Talaat (Sharia Nahda; ( h 123) % % ( ( Al Kharga (240km) To Minya (140km); To (Midan Talaat Harb; (Midan Talaat % See Main Map Inset ( 122) Banque Misr (ATM)...... Office...... Tourist Police...... Bank of Alexandria (ATM)...... Bank of Alexandria Banque du Caire (ATM)...... Assiutel Hotel...... Alexan Palace...... D1 Governorate Building & Tourist Governorate Building Main Post Office...... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING %

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ASYUT Ibrahimiyya EMERGENCY EMERGENCY 6-8pm Sun-Thu) Has an ATM. Has 6-8pm Sun-Thu) Sat-Thu) TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist office Main post office POST POST Banque Misr Banque du Caire Bank of Alexandria MONEY MONEY MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Gama’a Hospital Police Tourist police Ambulance Information Information lonelyplanet.com Thu) Has an ATM. Thu) Has welcoming staff at the tourist office can provide maps of onward travel. the city and help arrange Sun-Thu) Has an ATM. Has Sun-Thu) Sharia ath-Thawra; NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA side street, isAsyut’s bestbudget option, The youthhostel, withitsentranceoff a Sharia MohammedTawfiqSharia s/dE£132/176; Khashba; Sharia al-Nil;s/dE£89/110; Sharia disco iscurrently not running. private bathroomandTV. The Friendlystaff. the road,roomsare gloomy butclean,with the similarlyrated Hotel Akhenaten across Sharing anairof with neglectandunderuse well asoneof Asyut’s only bars. has arestaurant (mains E£15toE£25),as fridge andprivate bathroom.It satellite TV, roomswithin townandhascomfortable Nile, thisthree-star hotel is thebestplace overnight. than longer meansyouwon’twanttostay noise conveniently overlooks but thebusstation, s/d E£60/80) breaks, whenitgets very crowded. Avoidwith friendlystaff. Egyptian college al-Walidiyya; dmwith/withoutstudentcardE£3.25/5.25) presence. a you towardsonewhere theyalready have and noisythepolicemay‘encourage’ lection of hotels, butmanyare overpriced As alarge provincial centre, Asyut hasase- Sleeping traits of Mary and Jesus. lion pilgrimscometopray,carryingpor- halfofin thesecond August),uptoamil- festival)Moulid (saints’ of theVirgin (held will happilyshow youaround.Duringthe 120m above thevalley.Oneof themonks situatedconvent, about builtintoacliff Egypt. Some50nunsandmonkslive atthe to have taken refuge into duringtheirflight of thecaves where theHolyFamily are said of Asyut, this At Dirunka,located some11kmsouthwest CONVENT OFTHEHOLY VIRGIN around E£30 an hour. a felucca fortheride:expecttopay captain place topicnic.You’llhave tobargain with of Sharia SalahSalem,isashady, pleasant willcostE£5.Asktaxi for ‘Malga Trasher’. centre of for50pt;a townwilltake youclose donations appreciated. fromthe Microbuses 230 Casa BlancaHotel Casa Hotel Assiutel al-Hussein Hotel Youth Hostel Banana Island IEVLE:BN UFT EA • oa NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••Sohag The Hussein is comfortable and iscomfortable TheHussein

convent convent ( (Gezirat al-Moz), attheend (Gezirat %

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( % % 232 4846;Lux Houses,503Sharia

( /fax 234 2532; Midan el-Mahatta; el-Mahatta; /fax 2342532;Midan 231 2121;fax2122;146 % a was builtnearanother 233 7762;fax1600; ) Overlooking theOverlooking a )

Sharia TawfekSharia dishesE£5-10) Khashba; eer information desk isbeingrenovated,The trainstation butthe TRAIN Valley andeasttothe Red Sea. Luxor,westtotheNew toCairo, has services bus station train oraprivateShould taxi. thischange, the but thepolicewillencourage youtotake the Asyut isamajor hubforallformsof transport, Getting There&Away chickensalads, and grills. good tion, thispopularcafé-restaurant serves E£5-15) crepes. sweet variety)and nothing todowiththeItalian Delicious, convenient and open late. most reliable carbohydrate intake intown. ta’amiyya cent foodandthere are theusual Majestic, hasde- opposite thetrainstation, alcohol. Cafeteria only placeintownserving at theAssiutel Hotel ( left ), currently the Most hotels have restaurants, thebestbeing Eating Bldg; Luxor. from It maybebetter tovisitSohag asaday trip banned fromleaving yourhotel after dark. will beescorted wherever yougoandmaybe travellers are discouraged You from staying. here isstronger thaninAsyut andMinya the river, are allof interest. Policepresence Monasteries, andthetownof across Akhmin inthecity,nearby Whitesights andRed of UpperEgypt. there Although are few is oneof themajor CopticChristianareas The cityof Sohag, 115kmsouthof Asyut, % SOHAG Qena (E£30/21,three to four hours). stop inSohag (E£21/14,onetotwohours) and and Aswan toninehours). (E£54/36,eight All south toLuxor(E£44/30,five tosixhours) Minya (E£16/8,onehour),andabout10daily (1st/2nd classE£39/22,fourtofive hours) and There are daytimetrainsto Cairo several Casablanca SweetRestaurant Casablanca Galal Kushari The helpful Shayk ShepherdAkbar (Egyptian pancakes), pizzas (though 093 /pop221,543 h A few minutes’ walkfromthetrainsta- 8.30am-3pm Sun-Thu) ( around. stands % tourist office tourist (Sharia Talaat(Sharia Harb;dishesfromE£4) 233 0460)

( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % 233 5623) near the train station nearthetrainstation

, inthebuilding beside (Sharia SaadZaghloul;dishes (Sharia ( % isstilloperating. 460 4913;Governorate Savoury

( % fuul 234 2727; The and fit- NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 231 7am- B2 C3 C3 D1 C1 C1 C1 (8km) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 h To Akhmin To 4 00 300 m 0.2 miles (Deir al-Ahmar; East Bank 7 5 Banque du Caire...... Sohag Museum...... Bank of Alexandria...... Post Office...... Tourist Office...... Hotel an-Nil...... Boat to Gezira...... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING TRANSPORT Al Safa...... B1 8 Red Monastery Red Monastery

Nile River is Deir al-Abyad, , 4km southeast of

3 Sohag Bridge Sohag 2 The midnight) Founded by a village. of hidden at the rear Besa, who, accord- Shenouda disciple of a to who converted was a thief ing to legend, to St Bishoi. Christianity, it was dedicated two chapels, the monastery’s The older of supported a huge community of monks and of community a huge supported but library in Egypt, the largest boasted around scattered today the manuscripts are is home to 23 the world and the monastery walls still stand, though monks. The fortress most of the interior, they failed to protect easy to it is is in ruins. Nevertheless, which inside the the church out the plan of make and measuring brick of walls. Made enclosure 75m by 35m, it follows a basilica plan, with and a triple apse. two side aisles The a nave, intact, and apses the domes deco- are nave and the Virgin of with the Dormition rated Nineteen columns, taken Christ Pantocrator. separate the side from an earlier structure, wanting to Visitors nave. from the chapels from 4am. assist in services may arrive was reused, and ancient gods and hieroglyphs and ancient gods and hieroglyphs was reused, the blocks. It once still look out from some of Midan el-Aref Island Gezira

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Monastery SOHAG (115km) Red Monastery To Asyut To 400. White limestone from Pharaonic temples temples limestone from Pharaonic 400. White old Nile flood level, 12km northwest of Sohag, Sohag, old Nile flood level, 12km northwest of around AD was founded by Saint Shenouda Egypt’s pagan gods. The pagan gods. The Egypt’s al-Abyad; is to visit two early Coptic monasteries, which which is to visit two early Coptic monasteries, over Christianity trumpet the victory of weekly Monday morning livestock market, market, weekly livestock Monday morning delay visitors. is little in town to there ongoing excavations of the temple of Ramses of the temple of ongoing excavations II in Akhmim. Until then, apart from the finished on the new display local antiquities, including those from Sights Sights h Banque du Caire Thu). may be changed at the may be changed al-Gomhuriyya; arrange visits to the monasteries. Sohag tour- Sohag visits to the monasteries. arrange on ist police can be contacted cheques and cash or travellers ATMs are There the new museum on the east bank, can help lonelyplanet.com At the time of writing construction had almost writing At the time of NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA to Akhmin costs E£1andtakes 15minutes.to Akhmin a microbus from Sohaghour). Otherwise, (around E£25per togobytaxi and willneed serviettes. and E£30) orpackets of ready-made tablecloths bolt (silkE£65toE£75permetre, cotton silk andcottontextiles fromthe straight weaverssee at workandbuyhand-woven factory fice, agreen doorleadstoa small of Meret Amun,acrossfromthe post of- continues todayandopposite thestatue ‘Manchester before history’.Thetradition textiles –oneof itscurrent weavers callsit road. the Another excavation dugacross pithasbeen of andhouses themoderntown. settlement excavation pit,amongtheremains of aRoman ofstatue Meret inahuge Amunnowstands colour. original of statue herfatherstillretainsseated some and large earrings.Nearby,theremains of a flail inhand,wearingaceremonial headdress of theTemple of Min.She isshown here with II,wife of Amenhotep andpriestessRamses (Beloved of of theAmun)wasdaughter have discovered been inEgypt. Meret Amun of to statue anancientqueen This isthetallest Amun of Meret Sheikh Naqshadirevealed an11m-high 1982 whenexcavations besidetheMosqueof definite linkstoantiquitywere uncovered in anecho ofcontains thegod’sname,butmore called thetownPanopolis). Thecurrent name lus, equated withPan bytheGreeks (wholater fertility godoften represented byagiantphal- Itwasdedicated toMin,a nastic settlement. town of builtover Ipu,itself anolderpredy- bank, covers theruinsof theancientEgyptian (about E£25 per hour). to themonasteries you’llhave totake ataxi modern andlessinteresting structure. Toget of theVirgin, acrosstheopencourt,isamore perior qualityof thisearlywork. Thechapel navevisible intheright-hand suggest thesu- frescoesthe chapel ishiddenbyscaffolding, inEgypt andUSAID.WhilemostofCenter team sponsored bytheAmericanResearch of were writingthese beingrestored bya somerareand contains frescoes. Atthetime St Bishoi’sdates fromthe4thcenturyAD 232 Currently youwillbeescorted toAkhmin wasfamedinantiquityforitsAkhmin Little isleftof andthe thetemple itself, The satellite townof IEVLE:BN UFT EA • lBlaa NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••Al-Balyana (knockifitisshut). Here youcan

(adult/student E£20/10; Akhmin , onSohag’s east h 8am-6pm) weaving statue . Gomhuriyya, WestBank;s/d/trE£200/300/400; Gomhuriyya, and changes, there are budget of foodisoff limitstoforeigners. Ifthis class E£21/14)andLuxor(E£35/21).The with adozendailytrainstoAsyut (1st/2nd mainline, and southalongtheCairo–Luxor north is bytrain.There isafrequent service to foreigners, theonlywayof leaving Sohag andbustravel taxi forbidden With service Getting There&Away an-Nil. Hotel by boatfromthenorthsideof thenew mantic, there isacaféonanisland,reached bridge, which isgoodforgrills.More ro- café tiedupontheeastbank,southof the tion. Forsomethingfancier,trythefloating pipes. water forsnacks,softlar intheevening drinksand andtheriversidecomfortable terrace ispopu- relatively block.Roomsare newWestBank foreigners in Sohag. Nil isfinished, onlyonehotel was accepting Until thenewupmarket east-bank Hotel an- Sleeping &Eating police tourist situationwiththeSohag Check thesecurity easily from Luxor. here oronadaytrip, most byprivate taxi youwillbelimitedAl-Balyana, totravelling ists arrive, butcannotbe relied upon. Abydos Temple, which may openwhentour- Misrkioskattheentrance to a tinyBanque temple. the do nothave tostopyouseeing theright limit thetimeyoucanspendthere, they up policemenhere. theymay Although escortedpick been thusfar,you’llcertainly tends tobeheavy-handed andifyouhaven’t herebeautiful monumentsinEgypt. Security nificent Temple I,oneof of themost Seti of thenecropolisof Abydos andthemag- village of pointforthe isthejumping-off Al-Balyana % AL-BALYANA E£4.50). only isvery toAl-Balyana slow(3rdclass service Whatever choice there isintheway Al Safa As you’re unlikely in tobeable tostay Should tochange youneed money,there’s 093 ta’amiyya Al-Araba al-Madfuna Al-Araba al-Madfuna ( %

( % 230 7701/2; fax 230 7704; Sharia al- 230 7701/2;fax7704;Sharia placesnearthetrainsta- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 460 4800) . , 10kmaway,site kushari, fuul a ) A NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 233 Fields (10km) The House of Life Al-Araba To Al-Balyana al-Madfuna Osiris Park Cafeteria ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Fields Temple of Seti I Mosque

Abydos 00 300 m 0.2 miles Enlargement See One of the temple’s more recent residents residents recent more the temple’s One of Al-Cherba The first structure you’ll see at Abydos is is you’ll see structure at Abydos first The of Seti I, which, after a certain amount of Seti a certain after amount of of I, which, the most com- one of work, is restoration lime- This great in Egypt. temples plete rather unusually L-shaped stone structure, to the was dedicated than rectangular, and Horus, Isis gods – Osiris, six major Amun-Ra, Ra-Horakhty Ptah and – and also to Seti BC) I (1294–1279 himself. In it is a the Amarna Period, of the aftermath to the old ways. As a return of clear statement you roam through Seti’s dark halls and sanc- surrounds you. mystery tuaries an air of was Dorothy Eady. An Englishwoman better Eady.was Dorothy better Englishwoman An Sety’,known as ‘Omm believed she was she of and lover priestess temple a reincarnated and Seti at Abydos she lived I. For 35 years with information archaeologists provided in which the temple, of about the working the to perform permission she was given and was buried died in 1981 She old rites. the desert. in TEMPLE OF SETI I the striking Cenotaph Temple Great or Temple of Ramses II ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Dog Necropolis Old Kingdom Cemetery Sacred Lakes adult/student

40 m Osiris Temple of place to be buried place to be Remains of Ancient Town Gallery of the Kings the the First Hypostyle Hall Second Hypostyle Hall Seven Sanctuaries 0 was (ancient name Ibdju; SUEF TO QENA •• Al-Balyana BENI NILE VALLEY: Kom as-Sultan Osireion Portico Terrace Passage Entrance Abydos Entrance 7am-6pm) First Courtyard Second Courtyard h TEMPLE OF SETI I

Abydos maintained its importance be- Abydos ABYDOS & THE TEMPLE OF SETI I ABYDOS & THE TEMPLE OF SETI in their lifetime or have themselves buried buried themselves or have in their lifetime that, they would be buried with Failing here. the their souls to make small boats to enable death. after journey of his body, the temple at Abydos was the at Abydos his body, the temple of his head, most important, being the home of would try to visit a place that most Egyptians the supposed resting place of another part place of the supposed resting cause of the cult of Osiris, god of the dead god of Osiris, the cult of cause of were ). Although there p235 text, (see boxed one each throughout Egypt, shrines to Osiris Djer (c 3000 BC). By the Middle Kingdom as the tomb his tomb had become identified himself.Osiris of tombs of the first pharaohs of Egypt, including Egypt, of pharaohs first the tombs of the 1st dynasty, of the third pharaoh that of

the dead, E£25/15; Abydos Abydos of god Osiris, of cult centre the main As lonelyplanet.com

in ancient Egypt. It was useda necropolis as in ancient Egypt. 4000 to Christian times (c from predynastic con- BC–AD of than 4500 years more 600), al- now known as Umm stant use. area The contains Pots) the mastaba of Qa’ab (Mother

ὄὄὄὄὄ

ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA with the figures Iwithhiseldest son, of Seti ridor knownas Horus. son a graphicdepiction of theconceptionof their the goddessIsishovering above himasabird, of Osiris, thegodisshown mummifiedwith group of chambers dedicated tothemysteries here, sanctuaries: the leftof ina seven these More interestingSeti. are thechambers to off child, IsisandHorus,theever-present chambers dedicated to thegod,hiswife and of leadstoaseries inner third fromtheright, TheOsiris sanctuary, held theircultstatues. which once andSeti), Ptah Ra-Horakhty, toleft:Horus,Isis,Osiris, Amun-Ra, (right are god. Nile isafriezeof Hapi,and Amentet. Below the Maat,the goddesses Renpet,Isis,Nephthys infrontof Standing himarethe godhimself. in frontof ashrine toOsiris, uponwhich sits standing the rear wallshowingSeti right-hand quality. Particularly isasceneon outstanding reliefs thatwere finishedare of thehighest he diedbefore theworkwascompleted. The although ple tohave decorated bySeti, been papyrus columns,wasthelastpartof thetem- preparing the temple building. pharaoh making offerings tothegodsand II.Reliefsdepictthe completed byRamses isthe Osiris. Beyond the porticokillingAsiatics andworshipping II,whoisdepicted on I’ssonRamses Seti destroyed 234 Immediately totheleftof this,thecor- At therear of hypostylehall thissecond The The temple isentered alargely through IG IT LISTS KING Ay are simplyerasedfromtherecord. TutankhamunIII isimmediately followedbyHoremheb, Smenkhkare, and andthusAkhenaten, Intermediate Period andthefemale pharaohHatshepsutto the Amarnapharaohs:Amenhotep by excludingthoseconsidered ‘unsuitable’,fromtheforeign HyksospharaohsoftheSecond mythical Menes(usuallyregarded asNarmer),yetintypicalEgyptian fashionherewrites history emphasis ontheroyalancestors,Setinames75ofhispredecessors beginning withthesemi- only oneremaining initsoriginal locationwas created bySetiIinhisAbydosTemple. Withan lists canbeseeninCairo’s Egyptian Museum,theLouvre inParis andtheBritishMuseum, pharaoh. again withyear1ofthenext atyear1untilthepharaohdied,thenbeganpharaoh: ateachpharaoh’saccessiontheystarted ous year-by-year sequence,events were recorded ashappeninginaspecificyearof Ancient Egyptians constructed theirhistoryaroundpharaohs. Instead ofusingacontinu- sanctuaries IEVLE:BN UFT EA • lBlaa NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••Al-Balyana So itwasvitaltohave reliable records listingeachreign. king Whileanumberofso-called second hypostylehall pylon foreach of gods theseven Dr JoannFletcher andtwo Gallery oftheKings Gallery first hypostylehall , with 24 sandstone , with24sandstone courtyards is carved iscarved , builtby , also on therock-cuttombsinValley of the reign, tobebased itsdesignis believed Seti’s dated to in itsconstruction,ithasnowbeen account of thegreat blocksof granite used tobeanOldKingdomstructure,thought on interpreted toOsiris. asacenotaph Originally Egyptologists, itisusually though to baffle a weird,wonderfulbuildingthatcontinues temple,Directly theOsireion behindSeti’s is above ). text, pharaohs theboxed whopreceded them(see II,andalonglistof the the future Ramses to visit this site. Youmaynotbeallowed the gods’statues. offering bearers and thepharaoh anointing onfigurescolour, clearlyseen of priests, again retain asignificant amountof their theroof Although ismissing,self. thereliefs him- Iand,of Ramses course, deified Seti Thoth,Min,the cluding Osiris, Amun-Ra, considered in- important, each godRamses fora traditionaltemple, ithassanctuaries followingthe rectangularAlthough planof II(1279–1213BC). built byhissonRamses structuresmaller andlesswell-preserved I’stempleJust northwestof isthe Seti hazardous. walls onits of thefuneraryandritualtexts carved structure isnowflooded,makinginspection but thankstoarisingwater theentire table, chamber wasoriginallysurroundedbywater, temple,This isadummysarcophagus. Seti’s chamber’, which than liesatalowerlevel Kings. Atthecentre of itscolumned‘burial TE OSIREION THE TEMPLE OFRAMSES II lonelyplanet.com NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 235 8.30am-2pm 8.30am-2pm (Sharia Luxor; (Sharia Luxor;

h (adult/student E£25/15;

. Banque du Caire (off Sharia Luxor;

or Temple of Hathor of Temple at her cult site of Dendara is one of Dendara is one of of at her cult site 9am-2.30pm Sun-Thu) 096 / pop 201,996 7am-6pm) Ninety-one kilometres east of Al-Balyana, Al-Balyana, east of Ninety-one kilometres period, the h Qena has little to recommend it to the visitor, it to the visitor, Qena has little to recommend security is just as well becausewhich current impossible to visit. The it make measures to the spectacu- to get to stop is only reason just complex at Dendara, located lar temple outside the town, although this is best done Train or private as a day trip from Luxor. travelling of ways the only viable taxi are you will be given independently and then If you a police escort as soon as you arrive. need money, you may be allowed to visit the Bank of Alexandria & 6-8pm Sun-Thu) h Dendara Expect to be picked up by the police and put police and up by the Expect to be picked about taxi (return private into a the temple to Luxor is a train back to There E£40 to E£50). police class only E£8). Impatient at 5pm (3rd a tour onto the bus of you may also push to Luxor. group going QENA % at the in- Luxor, Qena sits 62km north of and the the main Nile road of tersection desertroad running across the to the Red A Sea Port Safaga and Hurghada. towns of capital, scruffy town and provincial market Although built at the very end of the Pharaonic the Pharaonic end of Although at the very built

7am-10pm) h BENI SUEF TO QENA •• Qena NILE VALLEY: (Temple of Seti I; 012 733 0071; www.ancientegyp 012 733 0071; % ( The only hotel functioning at the functioning The only hotel Another version of the story has Isis collecting the parts of Osiris and reassembling them of the story has Isis collecting the parts them Another version of Osiris and reassembling

to create the first mummy, helped by Anubis, god of embalming. Then, using her immense using her immense Then, the first mummy, helped by Anubis, god of embalming. to create Raised to avenge their son Horus. enough to conceive for long Osiris to life she restored magic, by each pharaoh, his Seth. While Horus ruled on earth, represented his father, Horus defeated the god, Osiris came to represent A much-loved father ruled as Lord of the Afterlife. resurrected death, a concept as important as it was hope for salvation after ancient Egyptians to life-loving to early Christians. THE CULT OF OSIRIS OF OSIRIS THE CULT in the of Isis and Osiris, preserved myths is the story most familiar of all ancient Egypt’s The According to historian Plutarch (c AD 46–126) following a visit to Egypt. writings of the Greek Isis ruled on earth, peace and prosperity to their bringing Plutarch, Osiris and his sister-wife kingdom. Osiris to a banquet Seething with jealousy at their success, their brother Seth invited and tricked him into climbing inside a chest. Once Osiris was inside, Seth sealed the coffin and Following the murder, the distraught Isis retrieved it into the Nile, drowning his brother. threw it, scattering dismembered back by Seth who it seized body, only to have her brother-husband’s up and, taking form of a kite, the searched for to give But Isis refused the pieces far and wide. are body parts, why there she found it, which explains the separate burying each piece where so many places that claim to be Osiris’ tomb.

Osiris Cafeteria Park House of Life House of Life p314 ). You can also catch a train from Luxor a train from ). You can also catch p314 hours). at 9.15am (1st/2nd class E£16/13, three Balyana taxi is by tour bus or private in the text, 8am convoy from Luxor (see boxed The most common way of getting to Al- getting The most common way of chures about the temple. about chures Getting There & Away surprisingly good range of books and bro- of surprisingly good range of snacks, although chicken meals (E£35) meals (E£35) snacks, although chicken of and the welcome is sometimes available are is also a friendly and the drinks cold. There Right in front of the temple, this is the only the temple, Right in front of to be allowed to use. likely option you are and consists mostly The food is overpriced in ancient Egyptian healing, and various es- in ancient Egyptian available. sential oils and other products are arranged. be Desert trips can also ternet and washing machine. Mr Horus, the Mr Horus, and washing machine. ternet been trained partner, claims to have Egyptian six rooms, sharing three bathrooms. There’s bathrooms. There’s three six rooms, sharing and guests can access the in- a big terrace, and US-run house overlooking the temple has the temple and US-run house overlooking tianhealing.com; opposite Temple of Seti per I; B&B/full board Temple opposite tianhealing.com; person €15/25)

Balyana, given the nervousnessBalyana, given the local of are there situation change, the Should police. cafés and food and some hotels a couple of the town. stands around Sleeping & Eating & Eating Sleeping stay allowed to to be Al- in unlikely You are Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book time of our visit, this simple Dutch, Egyptian Egyptian visit, this simple Dutch, our time of NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA a woman withaheaddress of cow’s horns usually represented asawoman,cowor she wasalsoprotector of thedead.She is in herworship. As of theWest’ the‘Lady representing thejoyfulintoxication involved beautiful hair’and‘ladyof drunkenness’, tles, including‘thegoldenone’,‘she of the gods, Hathor wasknownbyarange of ti- their goddessAphrodite. Like mostEgyptian the Greeks appropriately associated herwith sual pleasures, patronof musicanddancing: tics. Hathor wasthegoddessof love andsen- the Roman period. taken bythePtolemiesandcompleted during dynasty, withmuch of thebuildingunder- this great temple wasonlybeguninthe30th worshipped here sincetheOldKingdom.But Thegoddess Hathor(c 2320BC). hadbeen and religious centre asearlythe6thdynasty carved with hieroglyphs. allground cryptsandtwistingstairways roof andcolumns,darkchambers, under- it remains withagreat virtuallyintact, stone the iconicEgyptian buildings,mostly because 236 QENA Few deitieshave such varied characteris- administrativeDendara wasanimportant 1 Dendara (4km) Destinations (1km); to Northern To ServiceTaxis IEVLE:BN UFT EA • ea NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••Qena Mosque 2 4 Souq 5

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o r al-Mahatta sun-god Ra. Shesun-god wasalsoamaternal Ra. figure and sundisc,asshe of wasthedaughter the walls, the temple was built on a slight rise.walls, the temple was builtonaslight drinks at the site. of ourvisititwas not possibletobuyfoodor vantage isaclean,workingtoilet.Atthetime traders inordertoget tothetemple. Onead- will involve runningthegauntlet of hassling it iscurrently unoccupied,before longthis centre, withticket office andbazaar. While All visitors thenewvisitors mustpassthrough TOURING THETEMPLE Horus. of and Osiris expandedtoincludethebirth as anüber-mother whenthelegend of Isis overshadowedend Isisessentially Hathor described asthemotherof the king.Inthe attributes withthegoddess Isis, whowasalso Confusingly, she shared manyofBC). these a cowsucklingAmenhotep II(1427–1400 in Luxorshe appears even intheformof aoh. fromDeiral-Bahri Ina famous statue as thedivinemotherof thereigning phar- and aswife of Horuswas often portrayed

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a l 6 Station Train Restaurant Prince...... aqed ar...... A3 Banque duCaire...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION Bus Station...... Restaurant Hamdi...... New PalaceHotel...... Bank ofAlexandria...... 3 0.2miles 300m 0 0 5 4 3 2 1 6 C2 B3 B3 C2 A3 lonelyplanet.com To Qift(23km); Luxor (62km) NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA 237 Well Hall Inner Hall of Eastern Staircase temple of Offerings Hypostyle Chapels Hathor Temple of To Visitors' Centre (300m) Hall Gate Court Coptic Basilica Entrance Sanctuary Enclosure Wall Outer Hypostyle 0 40 m feature lion-headed gar- feature Zodiac Ceiling Court of the First Feast Second Vestibule Temple of Isis Sanatorium Well Western Staircase Lake exterior walls Sacred Nectanebo Mammisi of built by Cleopatra’s great rival Octavian, rival Octavian, built by Cleopatra’s great Facing this back wall is a small Facing The DENDARA Roman Mammisi Isis the Emperor Augustus. Walking back to- on temple the Hathor wards the front of Lake Sacred the west side, the palm-filled Beyond this, to water. supplied the temple’s countryside from the roof are magnificent. magnificent. are countryside from the roof was temple the The graffiti of the edge on left by Napoleon’s commander Desaix, and in 1799. soldiers, other French occasional rain- goyles to cope with the very pharaohs of with scenes decorated fall and are to the gods. The most famouspaying homage (south) wall, where these is on the rear of Cleopatra stands with Caesarion, her son by Julius Caesar. leads to the leads to the outer hypostyle again has Hathor again has Hathor SUEF TO QENA •• Qena BENI NILE VALLEY: Hall of Offerings inner hypostyle hall , the most holy part of the tem- , the most holy part of , built by Roman emperor Tiberius, the emperor Tiberius, by Roman , built The theme of revival continues in two continues in two revival The theme of Beyond the second hypostyle hall, you The inner temple was built by the Ptolemies,The inner temple the Louvre, Paris. Views of the surrounding Views of Paris. the Louvre, northeastern suite is a plaster cast of the fa- cast of is a plaster suite northeastern mous ‘Dendara Zodiac’, the original now in scenes of the revival of Osiris by his sister- Osiris of revival the scenes of the the ceiling of of Isis. In the centre wife, suites of rooms on the roof, decorated with decorated rooms on the roof, of suites taken down the eastern staircase, which is staircase, down the eastern is taken which this scene. with also decorated corner of the roof, the gods awaited the the the gods awaited the roof, corner of Ra the sun-god rays of on reviving first later Day. The statues were New Year’s decorated with scenes from this procession. this procession. with scenes from decorated In the open-air kiosk on the southwestern with statues of other gods before being being other gods before with statues of staircase The western is to the roof. taken with the rising of the Nile. It was carried It was carried the Nile. with the rising of it rested Offerings, where of into the Hall ple, home to the goddess’ statue. A further statue. A further ple, home to the goddess’ in the crypt be- statue was stored Hathor and brought out each neath her temple, in which Festival, year for the New Year in July and coincided ancient times fell will find the him in revenge. him of co-rule. The outraged citizens of Alexandria citizens of The outraged co-rule. of his palace and killed from the pharaoh dragged sanctuary Ptolemy XI murdered his more popular wife popular wife his more Ptolemy XI murdered only 19 days Berenice III after and stepmother those who might not be in the job for long. low in 80 BC an all-time Things reached when turnover of pharaohs, the stonemasons seem pharaohs, of turnover to carve been reluctant to have the names of temple. But notice the ‘blank’ cartouches that But notice the ‘blank’ cartouches temple. about the political instability much reveal a rapid Ptolemaic times – with such late of columns and walls carved royal with scenes of the founding of including the ceremonials, the smaller with zodiacs. of tradition, even under foreign rulers. The rulers. tradition, even under foreign of the rightceiling at the far left and side of being cleaned, is decorated hall, currently as throughout the temple, is the continuity is the continuity as throughout the temple, The walls are carved with scenes of Tiberius carved Tiberius The walls are with scenes of offer- presenting successors and his Roman gods: the message here, ings to the Egyptian first six of its 24 great stone columns adorned stone its 24 great six of first head, defaced with Hathor’s on all four sides sight. but still an impressive by Christians The entrance leads into the into the leads The entrance hall lonelyplanet.com NILE VALLEY: BENI SUEF TO QENA the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake commuting. for toLuxor enough limited and Qenaisclose ifyoucould,thechoices buteven arenight, theThe policewillnotallowyoutostay Sleeping &Eating escort. police a and backwithsomewaitingtime).Expect (E£20toE£30thetempleyou inataxi you arrive inQenabytrain,policewillput toDendarafromLuxor(see cruise p276 ). If E£150 toE£200return. There isalsoaday return fromLuxorwillcostyouabout taxi boxedLuxor inconvoy(see text, p314 ). A west sideof theNile. Mostvisitors arrive from AD the assonofpharaoh himself thegods.Between vine birth,bothof theyounggodsandof the (AD 98–117).Such buildingscelebrated di- Romans anddecorated byEmperorTrajan one nearest thetemple wallbuiltbythe anddecorated bythePtolemies, BC), Egyptian I(380–362 pharaoh, Nectanebo thefirsthouses), builtbythe30th-dynasty cure from the goddess. the the north,liemud-brick foundationsof 238 © LonelyPlanetPublications Finally there are thetwo Dendara is4kmsouthwestof Qena onthe Coptic basilica mammisi sanatorium IEVLE:BN UFT EA • ea NILE VALLEY: BENISUEFTOQENA••Qena lietheremains of a5th-century , where the ill came to seek a , where the illcametoseek . mammisi (birth te rate. the E£5, butwithpolicehelpiscurrently double AridetoDenderashouldby private cost taxi. Your onlyoptionatthemomentistotravel Getting Around two hours), ifyouwantto visit Abydos. (2nd/3rdclassE£12/6, trains toAl-Balyana trains toLuxor(E£18/12,40minutes) and stop atQena. There are 1st-/2nd-classair-con vate ortrain.Allmainnorth–southtrains taxi allowed toleave Qenabyorganised tour,pri- at thetimeof ourvisitforeigners were only Luxor,Hurghada andSuez,but ices toCairo, Mahatta) The Getting There&Away might be preferable. and vegetables. Butapicnicatthetemple E£7-18) and them, around Midanal-Mahatta. Ifyoucanget to several when youcouldbestaying in Luxor. thishotelMobil petrolstation, isapoor option s/dE£90/110; al-Gomhuriyya; Sharia Food choices are similarlylimited, with New Palace Hotel Restaurant Prince Restaurant Upper Egypt BusCo Upper Egypt both serve mealsof soup,chicken, bothserve kofta Restaurant Hamdi Restaurant , opposite runsserv- thetrainstation, fuul, kushari Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (

and (Sharia al-Gomhuriyya; dishes al-Gomhuriyya; (Sharia 332 2509,0103035514;near

(Sharia Luxor;(Sharia dishesE£10-20) ( % ta’amiyya a 532 5068; Midan al- 532 5068;Midan ) Behind the Behind places