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Welcome to our 2016 brochure. We hope that you enjoy reading it, and perhaps find the trip that you are looking for. We try to balance our destinations between long-haul and short-haul, and our departures between London and regional airports. All our tours are suitable for life-long birders and first-timers alike, with the emphasis on enjoying what we see, rather than trying to notch up as big a list as possible. For the third year in a row the strong pound has allowed us to freeze many of our prices and keep to an minimum any increases.

Last year we introduced our new departure guarantee. We are so confident that our trips will run that we will continue to offer this guarantee. If we are forced to cancel a trip due to lack of bookings, in addition to returning your deposit we will give you a cheque for £50, or if you prefer, a discount of 5% (maximum £250) on any future tour. We think we are the first and only company to offer this guarantee. During the last few years, almost everyone who booked with us travelled on their tour of choice. For those who did not, we made every effort to accommodate them on another tour. In practice, what we found is that far more people were disappointed because a trip was already full before they tried to book. We urge you to book as soon as possible.

Our intention is to provide you with as much information as possible within these pages. We have purposefully avoided using lots of glossy images and instead use the space to inform. Every trip has an in-depth write-up, giving you a flavour of what you can expect from the tour. We try our hardest to make the write-up as fair as possible – it is never our intention to make unrealistic claims. We also give you an idea about the physical demands of each tour. Anyone who is in reasonably good health will find that the tours are suitable for them, although no two trips are the same. We give a clear breakdown of the hotels we are using, as well as the airlines. Very importantly, we spell out exactly what is included in the price, and what is not, so that there are no nasty surprises after you have booked.

Having said all that, there is still much more we could tell you, and that is where our website comes in. Illustrated with many beautiful photographs, the website is easy to navigate and gives you a real flavour of the stunning birds, animals and landscapes that you can expect to come across. Space is almost unlimited, and so we are able to write more about the trips, and also quote clients’ testimonials at the start of each destination write-up.

Of course, we understand that not everyone has access to the world wide web, and for this reason we are still very easy to contact using more traditional methods. So, if you are unsure about the suitability of a trip, please don’t hesitate to give us a call. We try to make sure the office is manned every week day and if the person in the office does not have first hand experience of a particular trip, we will get someone to call you who does. We even redecorated the office last year, so the experience of calling in for a chat is much more pleasant.

Over the years we have been privileged to lead tours for hundreds of customers, from all parts of the UK and beyond. It is impossible to thank them all by name, even those whose trips are well into double figures. However, in 2015, two of our customers, John and Gill Dale, celebrated their 50th trip with Bird Holidays. As I write, they will soon be packing for their 51st trip, and are already planning more beyond that. Pam Richards travelled with us on our very first trip, to Mallorca, back in 1991, and has travelled with us at least once every year since.

Although we are obviously a business, our relationship with our customers and with our local guides is so much more. There are many people who have become personal friends and the Birdfair, in particular, is a great way of catching up year after year. A lovely aspect of our business is that we see long term friendships develop between people who meet for the first time on a tour. People who share a common interest and join a trip as strangers, but leave as life long friends.

Thank you to everyone who has travelled with us over the last 24 years. On behalf of Andy, Phil, Roger, John and myself, we look forward to seeing you soon.

PAUL J. WILLOUGHBY, BIRD HOLIDAYS, LEEDS, JULY 2015

1 2016 DESTINATIONS AT A GLANCE page destination dates principal departure airport (others are available) EUROPE, MIDDLE EAST AND NORTH AFRICA

10 Oman 25th Jan. to 7th Feb. London Heathrow 20 Georgia 27th April to 6th May London Gatwick 22 Coto Donana and Alentejo 30th April to 7th May Leeds/Bradford and Manchester 24 SW Turkey 2nd to 12th May Manchester 26 Latvia 3rd to 10th May London Gatwick 28 Greece 16th to 23rd May London Gatwick and Manchester 30 Finland 5th to 12th June London Heathrow 32 Estonia 6th to 13th June London Gatwick 34 Madeira 13th to 20th June Leeds/Bradford and Manchester 40 Spain – wolves, bears, cats 28th August to 4th September Manchester 44 Estonia in autumn 17th to 24th September Manchester

THE AMERICAS

12 Trinidad and Tobago 5th to 17th February London Gatwick 14 Panama 4th to 19th March 16 airports throughout the UK 50 Falkland Islands and Ascension 13th to 26th November RAF Brize Norton 52 Cuba 24th Nov. to 6th Dec. 16 airports throughout the UK

REST OF THE WORLD

8 Ethiopia 9th to 26th January Heathrow and Manchester 16 Bhutan 1st to 19th April London Heathrow 18 Okavango and Victoria Falls 3rd to 16th April London Heathrow 36 Bali, Java, Flores and Komodo 16th to 30th July London Heathrow and others 38 Mongolia 24th Aug. to 8th Sept. London Heathrow 42 Madagascar 10th to 26th September London Heathrow 46 Malawi and Zambia 8th to 27th October London Heathrow 48 South Africa 5th to 18th November 16 airports throughout the UK 54 Ghana 26th Nov. to 9th Dec. 16 airports throughout the UK 56 Taiwan 27th Nov. to 9th Dec. London Heathrow

AND INTO 2017….

58 Myanmar 10th to 23rd January 2017 London Heathrow and others 60 South India Safari 23rd Jan. to 7th Feb. 2017 Heathrow and Manchester 62 Yucatan 1st to 16th February 2017 London Gatwick and Manchester 64 Northern India (Tiger trip) 8th to 23rd February 2017 London Heathrow 66 NE Ecuador 15th to 29th January 2017 16 airports throughout the UK 68 Sri Lanka 14th Feb. to 1st March 2017 Heathrow and Manchester 70 Uganda 25th March to 8th April 2017 London Heathrow

2 Enquiries

Our office is usually manned during normal office hours (10am to 5pm, Monday to Friday). Here we are happy to answer any general questions about the holidays, such as flight timings and availability, as well as specific questions about itineraries and birds. You can also request a copy of a previous trip report. Our details are:

Bird Holidays Phone: (0113) 3910 510 10, Ivegate Yeadon e-mail: [email protected] Leeds LS19 7RE www.birdholidays.co.uk

Clients are encouraged to call in and see us, and the office is easy to find. However, we strongly recommend that you telephone before making a journey as there may be times when none of us are there.

How to Book Your Holiday

All bookings should be sent to Bird Holidays at the above address using the booking form provided at the end of this brochure. Booking forms can also be downloaded from our website. The amount of deposit required is given at the end of each holiday write-up. Please make cheques payable to Bird Holidays Limited. We are pleased to accept major credit cards and debit cards for payment of the deposit and final payment. However, in the case of final payments made by credit card, we must reluctantly pass on to you the 2% charge levied by the banks.

We are always happy to accept provisional bookings. That is, you express an interest in a trip and we ‘pencil you in’, with no financial obligation on your behalf. We will try to contact you when a trip becomes almost full. However if you are unavailable (perhaps you are away on holiday), there is a chance that we may not have an option but to give the last places to someone else. The only way to guarantee a place is to send your booking form and deposit.

There is a discounted price for bookings received more than fifteen weeks prior to departure. In order that we can secure the flights you want, we urge you to book as early as possible. We continue to welcome late bookings, but the higher price reflects the airlines’ practice of raising seat prices as the planes become nearly full. Occasionally, we can extend the discount date if we can secure the seats at the original price, so it’s always worth asking.

On receipt of your booking form we will send you a confirmation of booking, an ATOL certificate and a daily bird log. We will also advise you of passport and visa requirements. Exact details of the flights are not always available when the brochure goes to press and will be sent to you nearer to the date of departure.

It is important that you arrange travel insurance for your holiday. Financial Services Authority rules no longer allow travel staff to sell insurance, without undertaking time-consuming and costly exams. If you wish to take out Holiday Extras insurance please call 0800 093 1900 and quote AD205. Alternatively, please make some other arrangements and let us know the name and policy number of your insurance.

On receipt of your final payment ten weeks prior to departure, we will send you detailed fact sheets with information relating to joining the group. It includes hotel names, addresses and telephone numbers. It will also include important information about the itinerary, health, money, weather, clothing, footwear, optical equipment and useful bird books.

Following each holiday we will send you a full report of the birds seen, based on the log which is completed during the tour. On some trips, we are able to put together a photographic CD, which we send out as a reminder of the best moments.

All holidays in this brochure are ATOL protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 5546. From the moment you book your holiday to the time you arrive back in the UK, you can be assured of total financial protection. Such licensing is obligatory and provides you with financial security and peace of mind.

Our ATOL licence is your guarantee that if we go out of business the Civil Aviation Authority will provide the funds to enable you to complete your holiday and fly home, or, if you have not begun your holiday, provide you with a full refund.

Please note than an increasing number of small operators offering cheap birdwatching packages do not provide ATOL cover. If no ATOL is in place you may lose your money and be stranded abroad. Companies based abroad do not provide ATOL protection.

3 FURTHER INFORMATION ABOUT BIRD HOLIDAYS

THE TOUR LEADERS Our main assets are our five professional bird-tour guides. Paul Willoughby, Andy Woodall, Roger Barnes, Phil Palmer and John McLoughlin will, between them, lead all of our holidays. By keeping the total number of principal leaders to just five, we are able to maintain a ‘house style’ - relaxed but professional; experienced in birding and tour management, but most importantly, ensuring the holiday is a fun experience for all. Our regular clients know that the style of holidays will be quite similar, irrespective of who is guiding them. It should also be mentioned that your leader will always be in the same hotel as you and will be there to cope with any little emergencies, 24 hours a day.

All our tours have been thoroughly researched, not only for bird sites but also to find the most suitable hotels. This is normally done by a Bird Holidays leader, but on rare occasions by our local guide. Most of our tours have been tried, tested and perfected over a number of years.

We also have full public liability insurance for all our tour leaders.

The Bird Holidays leaders in front of our office in Yeadon. Left to right, Phil, Andy, John, Roger and Paul.

COST Whilst our prices are competitive in comparison to other bird tour companies, at first glance you may consider them to be more expensive than a conventional package holiday. However, the prices we quote are fully inclusive, with no hidden extras. There are absolutely no extra charges for participating in all the holiday activities. Furthermore, our programmes are so full, there just isn't the time or inclination to spend much money.

When comparing our prices to those of a self-organised trip, you must remember to add on the cost of midday snacks, drinks, evening meals, car hire, petrol, road tolls, boat trips, local guides, drivers, bird information, maps, reserve entrance fees, airport taxes, etc. We believe that you will find the difference is not as much as you first thought and will be justified by the high standard of service that we provide. Of course, self-organised trips are not protected by ATOL either.

FLIGHTS Although specific airlines have been named in this brochure, we reserve the right to use alternative ones due to schedule or fare changes. Flight times are correct at the time of going to press, but are subject to change when airlines publish new schedules. In most cases, the leader will accompany you from the moment you meet up in the UK airport to the moment you get back. However, there are occasions when the leader will travel to the destination in advance, and occasions when he will remain in the country at the end of the tour. In such circumstances, clients will not be accompanied through the airports. If being accompanied through the airport is a major consideration for you, please call us to check the position on your chosen tour before you book.

EX-FLIGHT PRICES We are happy to give you a price for ground arrangements only (without the international airfare) on any of our holidays. Please contact our office.

4 HOTELS We realise that a good hotel is just as important as good birdwatching. The best birdwatching in the world can be spoilt by run-down hotels, inedible food or noisy music in the middle of the night. That is why we carefully select every hotel, not only to be close to the best birdwatching sites, but also to maintain the high standard that our regular customers have come to expect. If a lack of choice forces us to use a hotel of a lower standard then this is made clear in the brochure. Given the choice we use locally owned hotels to increase the benefit of eco-tourism to local communities.

If you are travelling alone you may wish to consider the benefits and reduced cost of sharing a twin-bedded room. Clients who are happy to share should leave blank the box headed 'Tick if single supplement required'. If you book more than three months prior to departure and we are unable to match you to a room-mate, you get the single room without paying the supplement. If you book less than three months prior to departure and no one else wishes to share, then you will have to pay the single supplement.

EXTENDING YOUR STAY We recognise that many of you will want to extend your holiday, or fly out early, for some independent travel. It is possible to do this on any of our tours. Please call us to discuss your requirements. We make no additional charge for arranging this, unless there is an increase in air fare that we will have to pass on to you. You must, however, let us know at the time of booking, because once we have booked the flights it may be impossible to change them.

TRANSPORT We usually use mini-buses or small coaches to travel around. Again, quality is the watchword. To ensure maximum safety and flexibility, we try to use local drivers we know and trust, or the tour leader does the driving.

GROUP SIZE We have given a specific maximum group size to each tour, which you can find at the end of the tour write-ups. Tours which involve a lot of forest birding will have a smaller maximum than tours to see colonies of penguins. In practice, group sizes are often smaller; our average group size for the last two years was about nine clients per tour. On rare occasions we may exceed the maximum group size by one person in cases where there is only one place left on the holiday and a couple wish to book. We only do this after giving careful consideration to vehicle size and if the nature of the birding allows.

TIPPING We ask you not to tip the Bird Holidays’ leader. Where a local guide or driver has been particularly helpful we may organise a collection, but donations are never obligatory. Your leader will give you some guidance on amount if you wish. Tipping of hotel staff and porters is completely at your discretion, and again, your leader will be able to suggest an appropriate amount. Where tipping is expected in restaurants, your leader will pay this. On cruise ships, the level of tipping is rather high, driven by the American tipping culture. However, on the ships we use, tipping is anonymous and completely at your discretion.

OUR SMOKING POLICY We operate a no smoking policy in the vehicle, in confined spaces (hides, etc), at meal times, close to other group members in the field, and in shared accommodation. None of our principal leaders smoke. We always reserve non- smoking rooms when possible.

PLAYBACK The playing of bird sound recordings to facilitate a sighting is a contentious issue, and one to which some people are strongly opposed. Others are grateful for the opportunity to glimpse species that are otherwise near impossible to see. If used responsibly, we believe that playback is no different to the normal day to day interaction between birds on neighbouring territories. We believe this is preferable to a group of birdwatchers lingering for an extended time in a bird’s territory, dashing backwards and forwards with each glimpse. All our leaders use playback, but use it sensibly, sparingly and with full regard to the birds’ welfare. In the interest of the birds’ welfare and of other group members, we insist that clients do not use playback in the field.

PHOTOGRAPHY We encourage you to take your camera, to capture those once in a lifetime moments. If you want advice about which of our tours are most suitable for photography, please get in touch. Our leaders are experienced in getting good views for the group, and this leads to many photographic opportunities. However, the principal objective of our tours is watching, so you should be sensitive to other group members. For example, you should check that everyone has finished watching a bird before you take a few steps closer. Please do not hold up the group too often, and if you do, it should only be for a moment. ‘Borrowing’ the leaders telescope to do a little digiscoping is okay if it is only occasional and does not prevent others from looking through it when they want.

Our leaders have little time to take photographs themselves. They will only take photographs after completing their duties as a leader (i.e. after doing everything to ensure everybody has seen the subject as well as possible). We will happily send a copy of any image taken to the people who were on that trip.

5 THE HOLIDAYS THEMSELVES The key to a successful holiday is a carefully planned itinerary giving the right balance between time in the field, time spent travelling, free time and sightseeing. Furthermore, we believe that holidays are about having a good time in friendly company, and in a relaxed atmosphere. A lot of satisfaction can be had from pushing oneself to the limit of one’s physical ability. However, that is not what our holidays are about. Some companies take their clients 'twitching' from dawn till dusk and simply ignore all non-bird 'distractions'. Others believe that the most important factor in deciding where to birdwatch is the provision of a coffee shop and having rolled up at 10am they stop for elevenses. There is, of course, a wide range in-between these extremes and it is always important before booking a holiday that you know exactly how it will be run.

We believe that we have got the balance of our holidays just right, listening to the comments and suggestions of our clients. The emphasis throughout the holidays is on birds (not ignoring other wildlife), but when the opportunity presents itself the leader will accompany you to a local place of interest. The key to it all is flexibility and our leaders have great experience in judging what each group wants. Pre-breakfast birdwatching is normally low key and optional. However, we usually take breakfast quite early so that everyone is out in the field whilst the birds are still at their peak of activity. Packed lunches or picnics are generally the order of the day as they have the advantage of convenience and flexibility, and can be enjoyed outside in beautiful scenery. Whenever possible, we will plan toilet stops at visitors’ centres, service stations etc. However, this isn’t always possible, so you should be prepared to use Mother Nature’s facilities on some occasions!

No two destinations are exactly the same with regard to the amount of effort required to join in all of the excursions. For this reason we have given each holiday a paragraph or two explaining the pace to be expected. This can be found at the end of each holiday description. The pace of the birdwatching also varies from site to site within the same trip. Whenever possible we will walk through an area, but, especially around large wetlands, this is not always practical. In this case much of the day will be spent in and out of the vehicle, but this type of watching is kept to a minimum. Most of the holiday is spent walking through good areas at a sensible pace. Birdwatchers, by their nature, are usually quite fit, and after a full day in the field the feeling is usually of pleasant tiredness. Anyone with basic fitness, capable of taking regular short to medium walks, including some gentle uphills, whatever their age, is perfectly capable of joining in most of the activities on any of our holidays. If a steeper walk is required to see a particular bird, this is clearly explained. Of course, it doesn't matter whether you are an expert birder or a complete beginner. We are happy to cater for all abilities on all our holidays.

A day's birdwatching will normally finish about one hour before the evening meal to give you time to relax and change. Dinner times vary depending on local custom but average around 7.30pm. On some trips when there is a chance of owls or nightjars, we will bring this forward an hour or so, and have a special trip out afterwards. These evening trips can be very special indeed!

We differentiate clearly in the brochure between those trips that can be described as tours (where there are regular hotel moves) and those that are single or twin centre. In all cases, we plan our itineraries to avoid unnecessary hotel moves. For those people who do not want to 'live out of a suitcase' we try to find destinations where a one or two centre holiday will provide a sufficiently wide range of habitats to ensure a rewarding experience. By joining us you can be sure of seeing lots of birds in a variety of habitats, at a pace that allows sufficient time to appreciate and enjoy what you are looking at.

Of course, if you wish to do something besides birdwatching there is absolutely no obligation to join the group on every excursion.

Now that you know everything there is to know about us please read through our selection of exciting holidays. We look forward to seeing you soon!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Most of the work in producing this brochure is done ‘in house’; the destination write-ups; the design and layout; the photographs; the maps; and the artwork. We do not buy-in photographs from libraries. If this means that at times our brochure is less flashy than it might be then we apologise. However, we are sure you understand that outside help costs money and in the end it is you who would pay, by way of inflated holiday prices.

Nevertheless, we must thank all those people who have contributed. Thanks to the various local guides who have helped with the destination write-ups. Thanks to the friends and family who have helped with proof-reading. Particular thanks should also go to the small band of clients who help us pack brochures into envelopes every year.

6 CARBON BALANCED BIRDING

Travelling to see the world’s wildlife is thrilling and altitudinal migration. In June 2005, the local council has many positive spin-offs: contributing to local adopted the puffleg as the ‘Emblem of Quito’. economies in developing countries; supporting local reserves and conservation groups; employing local In addition to the puffleg, the new reserve will guides; and making new discoveries. Our industry is become home to such diverse birds as Rufous a positive force except for one drawback which, back Antpitta, Barred Fruiteater, Sword-billed in 2005, we decided to face head on. Hummingbird, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager and the wonderfully named Superciliaried Hemispingus. The biggest problem inherent in travelling to Many species of mammals have been recorded in international biodiversity hotspots is our contribution the area including Puma and Spectacled Bear. to global warming due to carbon dioxide emissions from air travel. It occurred to us that, in working our INVESTING IN THE FUTURE hardest to show people the wonders of the natural world, we were adding to its destruction. It was clear The World Land Trust used protocols laid down in the that, as a company, we had an obligation to address Kyoto agreement to work out how much land would our carbon footprint. be needed to fully offset our emissions. In fact, they built in an extra 25% to take account of possible For an ecotourism business which relies on air travel, variations and unknowns associated with the project. the best way to compensate is to plant trees, and lots of them. Bird Holidays have paid for the land and the reforestation costs as well as the management costs In early 2006, we created a nature reserve in to 2025. We did not look to others to raise funds and Ecuador, by planting over 20,000 native trees on we have not increased our holiday prices to claw- deforested land that was used as cow pasture. back the cash. The money came from the pockets of our principal tour guides, Roger Barnes, Phil Palmer, FLYING WITH A CLEAR CONSCIENCE Andy Woodall, John McLoughlin and Paul Willoughby. In calculating the area required, we took into account flights taken by our leaders and our clients. We used It is possible to visit the reserve at the end of our optimistic figures for client numbers so that both new Ecuador tour, although you would need to stay an and existing clients can fly with us in the knowledge extra night in Quito. On recent visits we have seen that they are part of the solution, not part of the Black-chested Buzzard-eagle, Great Sapphirewing, problem. Shining Sunbeam, Blue-backed Conebill, Black- chested Mountain-tanager and Red-crested Cotinga. RESERVA BIRD HOLIDAYS As the project progresses, trails will be established Bird Holidays funded the purchase of 65 acres of on the new reserve and anyone will be able to visit it, land adjacent to the existing Yanacocha reserve near with a small entrance fee payable to the Fundacion Quito, Ecuador. Working with the local community, Jocotoco. the Fundacion Jocotoco owns and manages the new reserve, and has planted more than 20,000 trees. A Reserva Bird Holidays is a totally new reserve, mixture of native tree species has been used to adjacent to an existing reserve of international create an area of cloud forest which will become importance. It has created new indigenous forest home to a fantastic diversity of flora and fauna. on degraded pasture land. It has been done to Seedlings were collected from the existing reserve remove the ‘carbon footprint’ on the environment and grown in an on-site nursery until they were ready created by Bird Holidays and their customers to be planted. through air travel. It is also helping maintain biodiversity, in particular by the protection of the Fundacion Jocotoco works closely with the local Black-breasted Puffleg and all the many species community and the new reserve is a wonderful that share its cloud forest habitat. resource for education. Being close to Quito, Yanacocha receives hundreds of visitors each year, many in search of its rare birds.

KEY SPECIES IN CONSERVATION

Yanacocha is the only place in the world where the Black-breasted Puffleg can be found. This beautiful hummingbird inhabits stunted forest on ridge crests and moves to lower elevations after breeding. The new reserve will create vital additional habitat for this critically endangered bird, particularly because of its

7 ETHIOPIA birds and mammals in Ethiopia’s highlands

Ethiopia is unique among African countries in that it is the only one never Kori Bustard and Beisa Oryx to be colonised. The physical barriers that helped protect it also isolated the wildlife, resulting in a level of endemism unparalleled in mainland Africa. There are over fifty endemic or near-endemic birds and many more local races. The Ethiopian Wolf is, of course, the most famous mammal here and we have excellent chances of seeing it.

We will visit at the height of the dry season. Just as temperatures are dropping to their coldest in Europe, Ethiopia is enjoying glorious sunshine with very little chance of rain, whilst the altitude keeps temperatures at a comfortable level. At this time many northern migrants join the resident birds of Ethiopia. Lakes and rivers become magnets for birds and other wildlife.

If your image of Ethiopia is of a dry, barren country with poor accommodation, think again. We will visit dry areas but we will also visit many wetlands and lakes, lush montane woodlands and high mountains. Hotels and lodges have improved beyond recognition in recent years.

We begin in the Awash National Park which is savannah and scrubland with a very impressive gorge. Next we visit the lush northern section of the Ethiopian Rift Valley and sample some of its lakes and woodlands. From here we will travel to the Bale Mountains for Ethiopian Wolf and many endemic birds. We then head over the Sanetti Plateau and into the rich Harrena Forest coming out into the deserts and grasslands of southern Ethiopia. We return through the Rift Valley, passing coffee plantations and woodland, to Lake Awassa and then on to Addis Ababa. We also have a full day north of Addis looking for Gelada Baboons and more endemics.

ITINERARY include Black-winged Lovebird, Rosy-patched Shrike and Martial Eagle. On the second evening we plan to visit a cave SOUTHERN AWASH NATIONAL PARK where dozens of Spotted Hyenas may emerge before After our daytime flight we arrive in the evening and spend dispersing across the park. our first night at a hotel close to the airport. Driving out of Addis we will stop at a large wetland where we should find THE RIFT VALLEY LAKES Lesser Flamingos, Common Cranes, White Pelicans and After two nights at Awash we drive south to the lakes of the Marabou Storks. We will stay at the recently opened Awash Great Rift Valley. Birds may include Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Falls Lodge which is within the park. We will drive across the Senegal Thick-knee, Black-crowned Crane, African Pygmy plains looking for Kori and Arabian Bustards. Buff-crested Goose, and African and Lesser Jacanas. After several birding Bustard may be seen doing their spectacular rocketing stops we will arrive at Bishangari Lodge, Lake Langano. This display flight. Antelope here include the beautiful Beisa Oryx is an excellent lodge and we spend two nights here, birding which is restricted to the Horn of Africa. Other large animals the grounds and surrounding area. Narina Trogon, Yellow- include Soemmering’s Gazelle, Salt’s Dik-dik, Olive Baboon, fronted Parrot, Tambourine Dove, Abyssinian Ground-thrush Warthog, Vervet Monkey and Nile Crocodile. One of the and Sharp’s Starling are just a few of the birds to be seen. spectacular birds here is the Secretarybird. Other species

8 On day six we visit Abiata-Shalla Reserve which is great for AWASSA AND BEYOND raptors and we should get some new antelope species too, We then cross the mountainous coffee-growing area and such as Grant’s Gazelle. It is also a good site for Abyssinian descend into the lower Rift Valley, arriving in Awassa in the Wheatear. We then spend two nights at Simbo Beach Hotel afternoon. We will birdwatch in a local park, looking for which is also on the shores of Lake Langano and has waterbirds such as White-backed Duck, African Pygmy excellent extensive, bird rich grounds. Goose and Hottentot Teal. The next day we will birdwatch around Lake Awassa and also spend time in the hotel THE BALE MOUNTAINS grounds, which are excellent for birds. On day 16 we drive On day eight we will drive from the Rift Valley into the Bale back to the capital where we will stay overnight. We then Mountains. On the way we will be looking out for the endemic have a full day birding the area north of Addis. We will drive Spot-breasted Lapwing, Abyssinian Longclaw and Erlanger’s through the plains up to the Jemma Gorge where we will look Lark. At some small crags we have a good chance of seeing for Gelada Baboons, Ruppell’s Black Chat, Lammergeier, Cape Eagle-owl. We will drive to Goba which makes an Spot-breasted Lapwing and many more species. We then excellent base for our three night stay. On the first full day we drive back to Addis for our late evening flight back to the UK. visit the Sanetti Plateau. As we ascend the plateau slopes we should find Abyssinian Woodpecker, White-cheeked Turaco CLIMATE AND PACE and the Bale Parisoma. The Ethiopian Wolf tends to emerge We can expect warm or hot weather every day, with very little once the day has warmed up. The plateau is dramatic with a chance of rain. In the mountains it is cold first thing in the unique flora including Giant Lobelias. Small pools provide a morning. Breakfast will usually be around 7am. Basic fitness home for Blue-winged Goose and Wattled Ibis. Rouget’s Rail is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and can often be seen by the road. We will also look out for short walks will be undertaken regularly. There is some uphill Moorland Francolin and Verreaux’s, Tawny and Golden walking but at a sensible pace. Eagles. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD On the second full day in the Bale Mountains we head to Full board accommodation is provided with one night at the Dinsho Lodge, the park headquarters. The woodland around Tazeze Hotel, Addis Ababa, two nights at Awash Falls Lodge, the lodge is home to the endemic Mountain Nyala, a beautiful two nights at Bishangari Lodge, two nights at Simbo Beach, antelope. Bohor Reedbuck, Menelik’s Bushbuck, Klipspringer Lake Langano, three nights at Goba Wabe Shebelle Hotel, and Salt’s Dik-dik are also regularly seen. This is probably the two nights at Turaco Hotel, Negelle, two nights at Borana best place to see Abyssinian Catbird, White-backed Tit and Lodge, Yabello, one night at the United Africa Hotel, Awassa, Brown Woodland Warbler. The park guide may well know the and the last night back at the Tazeze Hotel, Addis Ababa location of roosting Abyssinian and African Wood Owls. (where we also have use of day rooms before our flight on the last day). Hotels are of a good standard although Awash HARRENA FOREST AND NEGELLE Falls is simple and rather rustic. All rooms have en-suite After three nights at Goba we cross the plateau to reach the facilities. Lunch will usually be at a restaurant, but may be a Harrena Forest where there is some excellent birding. As the picnic. We will also have a couple of breakfasts in the field. forest opens up we will see an attractive landscape of scrub and isolated fig trees which is the prime habitat of one of PRICE INCLUDES ….. Ethiopia’s most sought after birds, the very attractive Prince All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local guide Ruspoli’s Turaco. It has a tiny world range and is, of course, (starting with breakfast on 10th, ending with dinner on 25th), another Ethiopian endemic. soft drinks at meal times, bottled water throughout, local transport by mini coach and Nissan Patrol 4x4’s, reserve Driving on, we reach the hot southern plains. We are well off entrance fees, park fees and international flights. the tourist route here but a new hotel in Negelle provides clean, comfortable accommodation. A full day in the Negelle WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED area will be spent looking for specialists of this dry habitat. A Travel insurance. Cost of a tourist visa (US$50). Personal target bird is the Sidamo Lark, one of the most threatened items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. birds in Africa. It is confined to the Liben Plain where its habitat is suffering from over-grazing and other agricultural pressures. In the early morning it sings as it hovers just a few INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from both Manchester and London Heathrow to metres above the ground. The rest of the time it is more likely Addis Ababa (via Frankfurt) using the scheduled services of to remain firmly on the ground, scuttling mouse-like from one Lufthansa. Outbound flight departs early morning; return flight tussock to the next. arrives back mid-morning. THE SOUTH AND YABELLO We drive through camel country as we continue on our circuit 17 nights including round south-east Ethiopia. The highly localised White-tailed one overnight flight: 9th to 26th January 2016 Swallow can be found here along with many other interesting species. We then head north looking for Vulturine Guineafowl Principal leader: Andrew Woodall and Streseman’s Bush-crow. The bush-crow is quite common within its range. A few kilometres before Yabello town we Local guide: Negussie Toye arrive at Borana Lodge for a two night stay. This is another new lodge and the accommodation is in very well appointed Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader chalets. The extensive grounds hold a large number of and a local guide species including Streseman’s Bush-crow, nesting Tawny Cost with discount Eagle, Bearded and Nubian Woodpeckers, African Scops (if you book before £3730 per person sharing th Owl, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Crested Francolin and Orange- 26 September 2015): (£280 single supplement) bellied Parrot. Various doves and small birds such as the Purple Grenadier can be seen around the restaurant. Full Cost: £3880 per person sharing

Deposit: £600 per person

9 OMAN where birds from Asia, Arabia and Africa meet

Oman is a peaceful, friendly country with strong connections to the UK, Crowned and Spotted Sandgrouse virtually no crime, and bird diversity second to none in the Middle East.

At this time of year, when the weather is just perfect, there is a very high density of wintering raptors. Greater Spotted, Steppe and even Eastern Imperial Eagles are plentiful and give excellent views. Now rare and local, the negevensis race of the huge Lappet-faced Vulture is regular at a couple of sites. Along the north coast magnificent Great Black-headed Gulls are in full breeding plumage. Alongside them stand resident Sooty Gulls and wintering, Steppe, Caspian and Slender-billed Gulls. Crested and Lesser Crested Terns gather together in large roosts. A boat trip should give us close views of dolphins and Red-necked Phalaropes. We have permission to visit a large private farm where migrants can be seen in their hundreds. Irrigated grasslands host flocks of waders and small birds which, in turn, attract raptors including Pallid and Montagu’s Harriers.

Our excursion to the deserts of central Oman is to witness flocks of sandgrouse, as well as to search the oases for other specialities such as the Hypocolius. The southern region is influenced by the Indian Monsoon, resulting in flora and fauna unique in Arabia. The birds here have both African and Arabian influences, with Bruce’s Green Pigeon, African Rock Bunting and African Paradise Flycatcher alongside South Arabian Wheatear and, with luck, Arabian Golden-winged Grosbeak. The localised Yemen Serin has become a regular sighting in the south.

Oman is a safe, welcoming country, if anything somewhat old-fashioned in terms of good manners and public behaviour. We always look forward to returning, and this will be our eleventh visit.

ITINERARY One morning we will visit the old port of Muscat, with its Sooty MUSCAT and Slender-billed Gulls, Crested Terns and Western Reef Our base in Muscat will be the Majan Hotel, which is situated Herons. From here we will take an inshore boat trip on the near to the splendid Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. From sheltered waters, where Steppe Gulls and Red-necked here we have easy access to the best sites along the Phalaropes congregate around pods of feeding dolphins. northern coast and the mountains inland of the capital. Common, Bottlenose and Spinner Dolphins are the most numerous. On one visit we watched 400 Common Dolphins The verdant parks and gardens of Muscat provide a good attacking sardines in massive shoals known as bait balls. place to start the tour and catch up with the commoner species of the area. Grey Francolin, Laughing Dove, Little THE DESERT AND QIT-BIT OASIS Green Bee-eater, Pallid Swift, Isabelline Shrike, Purple Oman is isolated from the rest of Arabia by a vast desert Sunbird, African Rock Martin, and White-eared, Spectacled named the Empty Quarter. This desert encroaches into the and Red-vented Bulbuls all occur. The Indian influence is felt middle of the country thereby dividing it up, roughly, into three by the presence of Indian Roller, Common Myna and Indian zones: the Indian influenced north; the central desert and the Silverbill. African influenced south.

10 We will take a short flight south to Salalah then drive deep below them Desert Lesser Whitethroats and Menetries’s into the desert to the Qit-bit oasis, for a two night stay. The Warblers chatter in alarm. This is a regular wintering site for next morning we will position ourselves at a nearby desert the sought after Red-tailed or Persian Wheatear. spring to witness the arrival of hundreds of sandgrouse. Spotted and the handsome Crowned Sandgrouse fly many Nearby cultivated farms hold flocks of larks and wagtails miles every day for this life-saving drink. The gentle yet far- including Bimaculated and Crested Larks, White, Yellow and carrying calls of these hardy birds are a memorable sound in Citrine Wagtails. Scarcer pipits may include Buff-bellied, this spectacular landscape. Blyth’s or Richards Pipits as well as the commoner Red- throated. Wet areas hold less common wintering species The trees and pools around our guesthouse attract Desert such as White-tailed Plover and Bluethroat. Large Wheatears, Eastern Black Redstarts, and Ménétries’s and congregations of Laughing and Collared Doves attract Asian Desert Warblers, while Hoopoe Larks often display at hunting raptors. We have regular sightings of Pallid and this time. The list of migrant birds and rarities here is Montagu’s Harriers as well as Steppe, Greater Spotted and amazing. Even the Grey Hypocolius has wintered recently; Eastern Imperial Eagles. we have seen them on our last three visits. CLIMATE AND PACE Our drive back to the southern coastal region takes us Warm, sunny days are the norm, and by visiting at this time of through a mountain pass that is excellent for South Arabian year we avoid the very hot summer temperatures. Rain is rare Wheatear, Arabian Partridge and Long-billed Pipit. Our first at this time. The average maximum daytime temperature is groups of Tristram’s Grackles should be seen in the around 25˚C. On some days breakfast will be taken at 8am, frankincense trees that grow here and once provided Oman allowing time for productive pre-breakfast walks in hotel with its biggest trading resource. grounds. On other days breakfast will be at 7am so that we can get into the field earlier. Basic fitness is all that is SALALAH required. Short walks will be taken on level ground at a In the quiet seaside town of Salalah we will settle into the sensible pace. Full days will be spent in the field, but on fabulous Salalah Hilton for a luxurious four night stay on the hotter days there will be a longer break in the middle of the coast, with Ruppell’s Weavers, Graceful Prinias and Shining day. Sunbirds in the gardens. Indo-Pacific Humpback Dolphins feed just offshore. Sightings of Ospreys are frequent, and ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Socotra Cormorants pass by. Brown Booby and sometimes Full board accommodation is provided, with two nights at the the scarce Masked Booby can also be seen. Majan Hotel in Muscat, two nights at the Qit-bit Hotel, five nights at the Hilton Salalah Resort and three nights at the This region has a monsoon season, so the vegetation is quite Millennium Resort, Mussanah. All hotels are of good or different. Acacia and Baobab trees are found, giving the area excellent standard, with good food, except at Qit-bit, which is a real African feel. African Silverbill replaces its Indian sister- simple but clean. All rooms are en suite. Picnic lunches will species. Fan-tailed Raven is the common corvid, Verreaux’s be the norm, although we will occasionally have lunch in Eagle is resident and the striking African Rock Bunting is restaurants. easily seen. Wooded valleys are home to Palestine Sunbird, African Paradise Flycatcher, Arabian Warbler, White-breasted PRICE INCLUDES ….. White-eye and Black-crowned Tchagra. Fruiting fig trees are All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board worth checking for the handsome Bruce’s Green Pigeon. The accommodation (starting with lunch on 26th, ending with coastal lagoons have a good range of wintering waterbirds breakfast on 7th), soft drinks at meal times, bottled water including Ferruginous Duck, Intermediate Egret and throughout, local transport by mini-coach, internal flights and Pheasant-tailed Jacana. international flights.

There are a couple of large farms here too, where we will look WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED for Sociable Plover, Bimaculated Lark and Pallid Harrier, and Travel insurance. Cost of obtaining a visa on arrival (£35), various other migrants. A small breeding population of the items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry. localised Yemen Serin has been found at a dramatic site in the hills, where Bonelli’s Eagles and Striolated Buntings nest. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow to Muscat using the The sun-drenched, southern coastal wetlands are a magnet scheduled services of Oman Air. Outbound flight departs in for a multitude of terns, waders, raptors and passerines, and mid-evening; return arrives back early evening. Flights are are set against a backdrop of the splendid Dhofar Mountains. also available from Manchester with Etihad Airways which fly We regularly see several hundred Steppe Eagles here along to Muscat via Abu Dhabi. with smaller numbers of Greater Spotted and Eastern Imperial Eagles and Crested Honey Buzzards. 13 nights including BATINAH COAST one overnight flight: 25th January to 7th Feb. 2016 Flying back to Muscat, we will spend our final three nights on the north coast. We will visit the Ras Sawadi peninsula where Principal leader: John McLoughlin the extensive beach is the winter home of Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers. Sometimes we can pick out the distinctive Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader Terek Sandpiper amongst the more familiar species. Both Crested and Lesser Crested Terns rest up on the sand Cost with discount dwarfed by the ‘king of gulls’ the stunning Great Black- (if you book before £3330 per person sharing th headed Gull. 12 October 2015): (£590 single supplement)

Inland the scrub woodland harbours an interesting mix of Full Cost: £3480 per person sharing resident and wintering species. The sociable Arabian Babbler lives here in small family groups amongst the low vegetation. Deposit: £600 per person Southern Grey Shrikes sit sentinel on the acacia trees, whilst

11 TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO relaxed birdwatching in a tropical idyll

Situated just off the coast of Venezuela, the twin-island country of Trinidad and Magnificent Frigatebird and Red-billed Tropicbird Tobago offers much more than just idyllic tropical island scenery, excellent weather, good food and a friendly welcome. In the forests we will look for a diverse selection of South American birds: hummingbirds, trogons, woodcreepers, tanagers and honeycreepers. In the savannah grasslands we shall watch various kites, caracaras, nightjars and lapwings. Wetlands support an abundance of birdlife from resident terns, skimmers, herons, gallinules and ibis to migrant waders from North America. Finally, there are islands where we can see a selection of tropical seabirds such as frigatebirds, tropicbirds, terns and boobies.

We shall spend seven nights on Trinidad, based at the famous Asa Wright Nature Centre, surrounded by tropical forests. Here we shall see hummingbirds from the veranda as well as visiting a Scarlet Ibis roost and the most accessible Oilbird colony in the world.

On day eight we shall fly to Tobago, the smaller of the two islands, measuring just 32 miles by 8 miles. If vibrant Trinidad is South American in character, then Tobago by contrast has a Caribbean flavour. The local inhabitants are very laid back and the birdwatching is appropriately relaxed. We shall spend our first three nights on the north- east coast at the Blue Waters Inn, in the fishing village of Speyside. We will see exciting seabirds and other species which do not occur on Trinidad. Our last night will be at Crown Point at the western end of the island, where we will visit nearby wetlands before our flight home.

ITINERARY Along with the hummingbirds, many other forest species are TRINIDAD attracted to the bird-feeders by the veranda. Whilst sipping On Trinidad much of our birdwatching will be done at and delicious home grown coffee before breakfast we will be around our base, the Asa Wright Nature Centre. Situated on treated to a natural festival of colour. Bananaquits, Great a valley side at 1200 feet, the centre is surrounded by mature Kiskadees, Green Honeycreepers, Purple Honeycreepers, rainforest and overgrown coffee and cocoa plantations. The Blue-grey Tanagers, Silver-beaked Tanagers, White-lined first birds to greet us will be the hummingbirds which come to Tanagers, Barred Antshrikes, Yellow Orioles and Crested feeders on the centre's veranda. These include Copper- Oropendolas all emerge from the forest and can be watched rumped Hummingbird, White-chested Emerald and White- at close range in large numbers. We will visit the display necked Jacobin. Nearby flowering plants attract other grounds (or leks) of both White-bearded and Golden-headed hummers including Blue-chinned Sapphire, Green Hermit, Manakins. A special effort will be made to find the unusual Little Hermit, Rufous-breasted Hermit and the delightful Bearded Bellbird. Tufted Coquette. The latter is one of the smallest birds in the world and yet it sports an elaborate plumage, making it one of On the east coast about an hour's drive from our base is the most sought-after birds on the island. However, the star Nariva Swamp. This extensive area of mangroves, fringed by bird at Asa Wright is the Oilbird, a nocturnal species which woodland, is a very productive place for birdwatching. Here roosts in caves. We should get good views of them near the we have our best chance of seeing Pinnated Bittern, Black- entrance to the cave during the day.

12 bellied Whistling Duck, Long-winged Harrier, Yellow-headed After three nights at Speyside we will transfer to the Kariwak Caracara, Azure Gallinule and Green Kingfisher. Village Hotel near Crown Point for our last night. This beautiful hotel has lovely gardens and superb food. A great spectacle awaits us during an evening visit to Caroni. A boat will take us into this mangrove swamp and we will be Being near the airport, Kariwak Village is a convenient place greeted by the sight of hundreds of Scarlet Ibis flying to roost. to spend the last day. It is also just a short drive from Their flaming plumage will be enhanced by the evening Tobago’s best wetland sites. Anhingas give great views, sunlight, leaving a dazzling image in our minds. On previous along with Least Grebe, White-cheeked Pintail and Black- visits our boatman has regularly found a nocturnal Common bellied Whistling Duck. Masked Duck, Sora Rail, Mangrove Potoo roosting on a broken stump during the day. Cuckoo and Prothonotary Warbler were amongst the highlights of our last visit. Just south of the Asa Wright Centre is an extensive area of dry savannah where we can expect a completely different CLIMATE AND PACE range of birds. These may include Red-bellied Macaw, We are visiting at the best time of year, when the temperature Savannah Hawk, Ruby-topaz, Striped Cuckoo, Smooth-billed is relatively cool and there is a low chance of rain. However, it Ani, Moriche Oriole and Yellow-rumped Cacique. An evening will get hot in the middle of the day, when we often take a visit should yield the Common Pauraque, a South American break. Breakfast will be taken at about 7.30am most nightjar, shouting out its name to proclaim its territory. There’s mornings. This will give us plenty of time to enjoy the 'birds- also a chance of Common Potoo and White-tailed Nightjar. and-coffee' experience at the Asa Wright Centre as well as take short pre-breakfast walks on the trails. On several days After seven days of birdwatching on Trinidad we will take the breakfast may be taken earlier, to take advantage of the short flight to Tobago, for the remainder of our holiday. cooler early mornings. Basic fitness is all that is required. There will be some uphill walking on both islands, but this will TOBAGO be at a sensible pace. Our birdwatching on Tobago will be very relaxed. There are fewer species but a number of them do not occur on Trinidad. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Most importantly there are impressive colonies of tropical Full-board accommodation is provided, with seven nights at seabirds found on islands off the north-eastern coast. the Asa Wright Centre (on Trinidad), three nights at the Blue Waters Inn and one night at the Kariwak Village Hotel (both As on Trinidad, there is exciting birdwatching on our on Tobago). All offer good quality accommodation with en doorstep. Blue Waters Inn, situated on the north-east coast, suite facilities and excellent food. During the day we will is our base for the next three nights and is home to a host of sometimes take a picnic and other times eat at the hotel. bird species. These include Grey Kingbird, Green Heron, Broad-winged Hawk, Rufous-vented Chachalaca, White- PRICE INCLUDES ….. tipped Dove, Short-tailed Swift, Red-crowned Woodpecker, All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local Brown-crested Flycatcher and Caribbean Martin. guides, full-board accommodation (starting with dinner on 5th, ending with lunch on 16th), soft drinks at meal times, bottled During our visit here we will take two boat trips. The first will water throughout, local transport by mini-bus, three boat trips, be to Little Tobago, an island off the north-east coast. Our reserve entrance fees, internal flight from Trinidad to Tobago boat will leave Speyside and during the one mile crossing we and international flights. will be treated to views of numerous birds including Magnificent Frigatebird. We will stay within a sheltered bay WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED where the sea is normally calm. Seabird colonies on the Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. eastern side of the island are home to large numbers of Brown Boobies. Less numerous is the Red-footed Booby INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS which will nevertheless be seen regularly. The most delightful Flight from London Gatwick to Trinidad, returning from seabird on Little Tobago is the Red-billed Tropicbird and Tobago, using the scheduled services of Caribbean Airlines. small numbers will be seen nesting. We may be fortunate in Outbound flight departs late morning, return arrives back mid- seeing an Audubon’s Shearwater in its burrow, as well as morning. Domestic flights from Manchester and other UK Short-tailed Swift and Caribbean Martin. Weather permitting, airports are available on this tour. See booking form for we will also take a boat trip around St Giles Island, the next details. island to the north. Here seabird numbers are truly spectacular and should include hundreds of boobies, noddies, tropicbirds and frigatebirds. 12 nights including one overnight flight: 5th to 17th February 2016 We will visit the Central Forest Reserve, stronghold of the White-tailed Sabrewing, a rare hummingbird. There is also Principal leader: Andrew Woodall the chance of seeing Collared Trogon, Venezuelan Flycatcher, Yellow-legged Thrush, Stripe-breasted Spinetail, Local guides: Kenny Calderon (Trinidad) Olivaceous Woodcreeper, White-necked Thrush, Blue- and Newton George (Tobago) backed Manakin and the dazzling Red-legged Honeycreeper. Butterflies are particularly spectacular here, none more so Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader and than the huge Blue Morpho. A nearby wetland site holds a a local guide good range of species, including Northern Jacana and Cost with discount American Purple Gallinule. Herons are represented by (if you book before £3980 per person sharing rd Tricoloured, Green, Little Blue, Great White Egret, Snowy 23 October 2015): (£680 single supplement) Egret and Yellow-crowned Night-heron. Full Cost: £4130 per person sharing

Deposit: £600 per person

13 PANAMA Central American birding made easy

Easy access to some of the best birdwatching on the planet draws many people to this small Central American country. Just outside the capital, the Radisson Summit Resort is close to the lowland rainforest of Soberania National Park and the famous Pipeline Road. A couple of hours west, we will search for foothill species in the vicinity of the beautiful town of El Valle de Anton. A little further west is the town of Santiago, from where we will visit lowland wetlands as well as the Santa Fe highlands. Further west still we will find ourselves close to the border with Costa Rica. Here, the slopes of Volcan Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher Baru are home to abundant birdlife including the amazing Resplendent Quetzal.

All accommodation is of a high standard, food is excellent and tap water is safe to drink. In addition to the abundant birdlife (we can expect more than 400 species), there are many mammals that can be seen, all with the help of our local guide. We will visit in the driest month, which also coincides with the start of the spring raptor migration.

We will arrive at Panama City on the evening of day one and transfer straight to the Radisson Summit Resort for a four night stay. We then have two nights in El Valle and two nights in Santiago, followed by two nights near Boquete and the last four nights near Volcan. On day 15, we will fly back from David to Panama City and connect with our evening flight home.

ITINERARY in Central America. Access to the park is along Pipeline Road. Many species which do not occur in neighbouring SOBERANIA AND CHAGRES NATIONAL PARKS Costa Rica are found here. We will go in search of Purple- Arriving in the evening, we will transfer straight to the throated Fruitcrows, Black-breasted Puffbirds, Broad-billed Radisson Summit Hotel for a stay of four nights. Here we are Motmots, Golden-collared Manakins, Slaty-tailed Trogons at the edge of the rainforest and yet just 20 minutes from the and Cinnamon Woodpeckers. We will hope to come across city! an ant swarm, with its attendant birds which may include Spotted Antbird, Ocellated Antbird, Northern Barred On our first morning we will quickly forget about the previous Woodcreeper and Greater Ani. day’s journey. In the grounds there are numerous parrots, toucans and other colourful species that can be watched We will visit wetlands in the area, where we have a chance of sitting out on exposed perches to get the benefit of the first seeing Boat-billed Heron, Rufescent Tiger-heron, Agami warming rays of sun. Sloths and Capybaras can also be seen Heron, White-throated Crake, Grey-necked Wood-rail and in the grounds. Lesser Kiskadee. The engineers who built the Panama Canal realised that it A short drive from our hotel will take us to some dry forest at was vital to protect the surrounding forest. The trees regulate Chagres National Park where we can look for the common the flow of water and prevent the canal from silting up during but secretive Rosy Thrush-tanager, as well as Lance-tailed the rainy season, while the system of locks relies on a steady Manakin, Rufous-and-white Wren, Crimson-backed Tanager supply of fresh water for its operation. The Soberania and the endemic Yellow-green Tyrannulet. Various mammals National Park was created to protect this forest and the result are likely to be seen such as Two-toed and Three-toed Sloth, is the best preserved and most accessible lowland rainforest Geoffroy’s Tamarin, Agouti, Coati, Mantled Howler Monkey

14 and Northern Tamandua. On one afternoon we can visit the At a nearby farm, shade-grown coffee plantations have plenty Miraflores Locks, and watch huge cargo ships passing of large trees in which numerous birds can be seen, including through the canal with just inches to spare. Flame-coloured Tanager, Cherrie’s Tanager and Elegant Euphonia. Migrant warblers from North America are found in EL VALLE DE ANTON good numbers: Golden-winged, Blackburnian, Bay-breasted, Two hours west of Panama City, the pleasant town of El Valle Chestnut-sided, Tennessee and Mourning Warblers are all nestles in the crater of a huge extinct volcano. At nearly 2000 easier to see here than on their breeding grounds. feet above sea level, temperatures are pleasant and life is very relaxed. We will stay at the lovely Los Mandarinos Spa On day 15, we will drive the short distance down to David, Resort, at the edge of town. Nearby trails take us in search of then take a morning flight back to Panama City. We will have Chestnut-headed Oropendola, Red-crowned Ant-tanager, lunch at a small hotel in Cerro Azul, in the hills above the Rufous-capped Warbler and the elusive Tody Motmot. airport, and spend the afternoon birding and relaxing in the relative cool of this lovely spot. We will have day-use of a The hills above El Valle are home to the unusual White-tipped couple of rooms, where you can shower and re-pack at your Sicklebill, a hummingbird which is attracted to flowering leisure. It is then just a short drive down to the airport, heliconias. This is also a great place to search for Orange- allowing plenty of time to catch our flight home. bellied Trogon, White Hawk, Blue-throated Toucanet, Brown- billed Scythebill, Tufted Flycatcher and Silver-throated CLIMATE AND PACE Tanager. In the Canal zone and other lowland areas it gets hot, so we will birdwatch during the cooler parts of the day. At higher SANTIAGO AND SANTA FE elevations the temperatures are very pleasant. March is the On day seven we will leave El Valle and drive to Santiago, driest month, although rain is nevertheless a possibility. Most birdwatching en route. Our first stop is Aguadulce, an area of days we will make an early start but have a short siesta in the lagoons and salt pans on the Pacific coast. We will look for afternoon. The birding sites are close to the hotels, so with Common Black Hawk and Mangrove Yellow Warbler, as well the exception of the transfer days, travelling is kept to a as a variety of waders including Black-necked Stilt, Southern minimum. Basic fitness is all that is required. There is some Lapwing, Collared Plover, Short-billed Dowitcher, Lesser uphill walking, but at a sensible pace. Yellowlegs, Solitary Sandpiper and Western Sandpiper. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD From Santiago, we will have a full day in the highlands of Full-board accommodation is provided, with four nights at the Santa Fe. Here, the birdlife has a distinctly Caribbean flavour, Radisson Summit Hotel near Gamboa, two nights at Los with Emerald, Speckled and Crimson-collared Tanagers, Mandarinos Spa Resort in El Valle, two nights at La Black-faced and Black-thighed Grosbeaks and Lattice-tailed Hacienda, Santiago, two nights at the Panamonte Inn, Trogon all likely. Black-crowned Antpitta and Yellow-eared Boquete and four nights at the Casa Grande near Volcan. All Toucanet are two highly sought possibilities. accommodation is of a high standard with private facilities en suite. Lunches will sometimes be packed, but more often will On day nine we will drive west to Las Lajas, where we have a be taken back at the hotel or at a local restaurant. good chance of finding the endemic Veraguan Mango. We will then continue on to the lovely Panamonte Inn, for a two PRICE INCLUDES ….. night stay. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local guide, full-board accommodation (starting with dinner on 4th, BOQUETE ending with lunch on 18th), soft drinks at meal times, bottled The Panamonte Inn is a beautiful old fashioned hotel with water throughout, local transport by mini-coach, park lovely gardens. The accommodation and food are superb. It entrance fees, one domestic flight and international flights. is close to Los Quetzales Trail where we can see Three- wattled Bellbird, Sulphur-winged Parakeets, Prong-billed WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Barbet, Golden-browed Chlorophonia and perhaps even our Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. first Resplendent Quetzal. The next day we will head to Volcan for our final four nights. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from most UK airports to Panama City (via VOLCAN BARU Amsterdam) using the scheduled services of KLM. Outbound At 11,411 feet above sea level, the dormant Volcan Baru flight departs early morning, return flight arrives back late dominates the western province of Chiriqui. Closely afternoon. reminiscent of the Costa Rican highlands, many species of bird are found only in this region. Four nights at the excellent Casa Grande Resort will give us a great opportunity to 15 nights including explore the cloud forest which cloaks this mountain. one overnight flight: 4th to 19th March 2016

We will find a new range of birds here including Long-tailed Principal leader: John McLoughlin Silky-flycatcher, Ruddy Treerunner, Buffy Tufted-cheek, Flame-throated Warbler, Collared Whitestart, Black-cheeked Local guide: Euclides (Kilo) Campos Warbler, Sooty-capped Bush-tanager and Yellow-thighed Finch. The forest resounds to the hauntingly beautiful songs Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader of Black-faced Solitaires and Ruddy-capped Nightingale- and a local guide thrushes. We also have a great chance of seeing the world’s Cost with discount most beautiful bird, the Resplendent Quetzal. Hummingbirds (if you book before £3640 per person sharing th are a feature of this mountain. White-throated Mountain-gem, 19 November 2015): (£490 single supplement) Magnificent Hummingbird, Magenta-throated Woodstar, Scintillant Hummingbird and Volcano Hummingbird are all Full Cost: £3790 per person sharing likely. Deposit: £600 per person

15 BHUTAN spectacular birds in this beautiful Himalayan kingdom

Closed to the world for decades, Bhutan retains a medieval charm untarnished by the modern world. It is blessed with incredible mountain scenery and is steeped in tradition and folklore, while being extraordinarily rich in wildlife. There is now a good tourist infrastructure but do not expect to bump into many other westerners.

Eastern Bhutan has been recognised as one of the top ten biodiversity hot spots in the world. Being a Buddhist country, hunting is illegal and so many species of bird and mammal are surprisingly tame. What is especially important, from a wildlife perspective, is that much of Bhutan’s land is Himalayan Monal and Tiger’s Nest Monastery protected in national parks.

Our journey takes us through rural valleys and high passes topped with temples. In the past, the only way to see the best of Bhutan’s birds was to camp, but there are now new hotels and charming guesthouses. The route allows us to explore many different habitats, as well as visit spectacular dzongs (monasteries that doubled as forts and now serve as administration centres). The most impressive is the incredible Tiger’s Nest.

Four of the world’s most stunning pheasants can be seen from the roadside. Close views of Blood Pheasant and Satyr Tragopan are very likely, along with Himalayan Monal and Kalij Pheasant. The high elevation broad-leaf and coniferous forests hold over a hundred species of rhododendron and many will be starting to flower. Here we can expect to see some very special birds such as the sought-after Ward’s Trogon and Rufous-necked Hornbill. We saw twenty species of mammal on a previous trip, including River Otter, Giant Red Flying Squirrel, Giant Malay Squirrel, several species of monkey, Yellow-throated Marten, Pika, Sambar and Goral. We have also seen Red Panda droppings, so our first sighting is perhaps not far away!

Tourism is strictly regulated and a high daily tariff deters the more casual visitor. Much of the money is ploughed back into infrastructure for the preservation of the traditional way of life and natural landscape. This has led to Bhutan proudly leading the world in ‘Gross National Happiness’.

ITINERARY PARO We arrive in Bhutan after a short but spectacular flight and we KATHMANDU, NEPAL will soon be at our hotel just outside Paro. In the afternoon we We arrive in Kathmandu after an overnight flight and drive will check the river for Wallcreeper, White-capped Water just half an hour to our hotel. Our first two nights will be spent Redstart, Ruddy Shelduck, Ferruginous Duck and Black- at the fantastic Gokarna Forest Lodge, set in 470 acres of tailed Crake. Here we may see our first Ibisbill along with forest in the Kathmandu Valley. Here we can walk the trails in Plumbeous Redstart and River Lapwing. the hotel grounds in search of Scaly Thrush, Ashy Woodpigeon and Blue-throated Barbet, amongst others. We BUMTHANG AND YONGKHOLA will also visit some historic areas of Kathmandu. On day four The next day we take a short flight to Bumthang, famous for we will then fly to Paro in Bhutan. its many temples, stupas and dzongs. Playful Red-billed Choughs swirl around the old dzong and Wallcreepers should

16 still be at a low elevation. We will search for Rufous-breasted Our last two nights in Bhutan will be spent near Paro. We will Accentors, and Blue-fronted, Plumbeous and White-capped arrive early enough to allow time for a walk to view the Tiger’s Redstarts. The next morning we will go in search of Nest Monastery. The next morning we will make an early start displaying pheasants. The incomparable Satyr Tragopan is and climb by bus up to Chelai Pass. Here we have further undoubtedly the star and the hairs on your neck stand up chances to see Satyr Tragopan, Himalayan Monal, Kalij when a fiery red male walks towards you through twisted Pheasant and Blood Pheasant along with Yellow-billed Blue rhododendron roots. The Blood Pheasant is the smallest and Magpie, White-browed Rosefinch and Fire-tailed Sunbird. possibly the prettiest of our targets. Finally, we will fly back to Nepal in the early morning. We will We will continue south and east to the Upper Yongkhola have the whole of the day in Kathmandu, with its exotic Valley, where we will stay for three nights at a wonderful new markets and richly carved shrines. In the evening we will fly lodge. Birding from the doorstep can produce Himalayan back to the UK. Greenfinch, Oriental Turtle Dove and Common Hawk- Cuckoo. The park is a great place to find such jewels as CLIMATE AND PACE Ward’s Trogon, Rufous-necked Hornbill, White-browed At lower elevations it is normally hot, with a chance of Shrike-babbler, Long-tailed Broadbill, Red-faced Liocichla, thunderstorms in the afternoon. Higher up it is normally cold Scarlet Finch, Barred Cuckoo-dove and Mrs Gould’s Sunbird. in the morning, but as the sun comes up it is very pleasant. Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler and various parrotbills hide Rain is a possibility, but is unpredictable. Early to rise and in the bamboo, while Tickell’s Leaf-warbler and Greater early to bed is the norm in Bhutan and this fits in well with the Yellownape require less patience. At dusk, Collared Owlets best birding times. There is some uphill walking, done at a and Giant Red Flying Squirrels become active. sensible pace. To view the Tiger’s Nest Monastery involves a fairly long uphill walk, but we will allow a whole afternoon, and CHUMMEY AND TRONGSA since there is no rush this can be done at your own pace. We Chummey is a charming rural area where Gold-billed Blue drive over some high mountain passes but most of the birding Magpies come to drink at traditional water-powered prayer is done where the altitude is below 8000 feet. wheels. This is a superb area for the Himalayan Monal. They call from the rocky hillsides in the morning and we can expect ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD good close views. Dark-breasted and Beautiful Rosefinches Full-board accommodation is provided. We have two nights at sip nectar from flowering rhododendrons, while Red-headed the Gokarna Forest Lodge (Meridien Hotel), Kathmandu, one Bullfinches accompany White-winged Grosbeaks through night at the Janka Resort, Paro, two nights at Bumthang, bushes stunted by centuries of grazing by Yaks. three nights at Yongkhola, one night at Chumey Nature Resort, two nights at the Yangkhil Resort, Trongsa, one night We then continue to Trongsa where our hotel overlooks an at Phobjika, two nights near Punakha and two nights back at impressive dzong. Himalayan Cutias inspect mossy trunks, the Janka Resort, Paro. Hotels are all of a good standard, rock bees attract Yellow-rumped Honeyguides and we will with private facilities en suite. There is no camping. check the streams for the three species of forktail we have seen here previously. Two nights here will also give us time PRICE INCLUDES ….. to explore the beautiful Zhemgang Valley, with its rich birdlife All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local and regionally endemic Golden Langur. guide, full-board accommodation (starting with dinner on 2nd, ending with lunch on 18th), soft drinks at meal times, bottled PHOBJIKA water throughout, local transport by mini-coach, park From Trongsa, we head to Phobjika, climbing out of the valley entrance fees, Bhutan visa, domestic and international flights. and passing crags where Nepalese House Martins shelter. Following the edge of the Black Mountains, we cross Pelela WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Pass. The hills are peppered with Yak herder’s camps. Travel insurance. Cost of obtaining a Nepalese visa (approx. Russet Sparrows, Red-billed Choughs and Hoopoes nest in US$40). Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry. the roofs of wooden houses. Our hotel has great views of pastures that ring to the sound of Oriental Skylarks. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from London Heathrow to Kathmandu using the An early start the next day takes us back to Pelela Pass. The scheduled services of Qatar Airways, then to Paro using Druk frost-stunted juniper forest is home to some of the best Air. Outbound flight departs mid-evening, return flight arrives birding in the Himalayas. The call of the Satyr Tragopan back early afternoon. echoes in the morning air as roving parties of Rufous-vented, Domestic flights from Manchester Grey-crested, Black-throated, Yellow-cheeked and Yellow- and other UK airports are available on this tour. See browed Tits pass by. Rufous Sibias and Mrs Gould’s booking form for details. Sunbirds take an early drink from flowers. We have the opportunity to fill a few gaps in our laughingthrush list too, as 18 nights including Black-faced and White-throated are common here. two overnight flights: 1st to 19th April 2016

PUNAKHA Principal leader: Andrew Woodall We will spend two nights in the stupendous Puna Tsang Chhu Valley where we will try to see the beautiful Red- Local guide: Dorji Sonam headed Trogon. The Spotted Wren-babbler is frequently heard in roadside vegetation and we will make every effort to Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader see one. Other birds should include Ultramarine, Sapphire and a local guide and Verditer Flycatchers. The valley is home to the critically Cost with discount endangered White-bellied Heron, which may number as few (if you book before £4680 per person sharing th as 50 birds! We have managed a sighting on every trip. This 17 December 2015): (£390 single supplement) is a great area for raptors too with Pallas’s Fish-eagle and Mountain Hawk-eagle both regular. Full Cost: £4830 per person sharing

Deposit: £1000 per person

17 THE OKAVANGO DELTA, CAPRIVI AND VICTORIA FALLS the best of Botswana, Namibia and Zambia

The Okavango Delta is one of the last great wetland wildernesses on the planet and probably the most important Ramsar site in the world. Namibia’s Caprivi Strip is a long narrow extension of land running nearly five hundred kilometres along the northern border of Botswana and is one of the world’s birding hotspots, with around five hundred species recorded in a relatively small area. Victoria Falls is not only one of the seven natural wonders of the world, it also has superb wildlife habitat surrounding it. On this holiday of a lifetime we will Saddle-billed Stork visit all three of these awe-inspiring locations.

ITINERARY Each year this papyrus-filled bowl becomes saturated by rivers that rise in the Angolan highlands, running down KALAHARI through Namibia’s Caprivi Strip and into Botswana, Arriving in Windhoek, Namibia, we will drive east into the terminating in the dry Kalahari Desert. The many habitat Kalahari Desert. As we enter the world of the San Bushmen, zones in and around the delta support an abundance of life. we will be observed by the many rollers, shrikes, eagles and hornbills that sit atop roadside acacias. Red-capped Lark, Xaro Lodge, located at the base of the panhandle, is situated Groundscraper Thrush, Ashy Tit, Acacia Pied Barbet, Greater beside papyrus beds, bordered by large trees that are home Scimitarbill, Kalahari Robin and Rufous-vented Tit-babbler to one of the stars of this trip. Pel’s Fish Owl is a large are typical of the many bushbirds that occur in this land, copper-coloured teddy bear of a bird, and we have two nights grazed by Oryx and Kudu. Perhaps a Meerkat will stand to here to search for it. On our last tour we had five sightings. attention as we pass by. We will spend our first night at Zelda Touring the delta by boat, every twist and turn of the channels Guestfarm, in Namibia, and our second at Thakadu Lodge reveals birds. Some, like Wire-tailed Swallow, even perch on across the border in Botswana. During this time we will also the boat, while Southern Carmine and White-fronted Bee- get the chance to go on a walk with a bushman, learning a eaters chase the many dragonflies. Allen’s Gallinule, Black few secrets about the desert that these people call home. Crake, Lesser Jacana, Saddle-billed Stork and flocks of White-faced Whistling Ducks are wary of the African Fish OKAVANGO DELTA Eagles. Photographers struggle to know which way to point Heading north, we then follow the western edge of the their lenses as there are Elephants, Crocodiles, Sitatunga, Okavango Delta, to the wildlife-rich corridor known as the Reedbuck and Lechwe. Two herons feature highly, the range- Panhandle. restricted Slaty Egret and the shy and nocturnal White- backed Night Heron. Visible from space, the Okavango Delta is an emerald green gem in the Kalahari Desert and arguably the continent’s most THE CAPRIVI STRIP pristine wildlife area. Home to around half of the continent’s On day six we will head north along the upper reaches of the elephants and key predators like Cheetah and African Wild Panhandle, until we enter the Caprivi Strip. This narrow strip Dog, conservationists have also begun moving small of land, annexed by Germany in 1890 in a deal that allowed populations of threatened species like Rhinos here for safe- them access to the Zambezi and further east, has habitats keeping. quite different to anywhere else in Namibia. This remote area

18 receives few visitors, while the lack of fencing allows animals to move freely between reserves in Botswana and Namibia. After two nights at this stupendous site we have a short journey to Livingstone Airport, flying back to Windhoek and We will have three nights in the Caprivi, travelling its length to then onward to the UK. eventually reach Chobe. Mahango is the premier reserve in the Caprivi and has a fine selection of mammals very different CLIMATE AND PACE from Etosha and southern Namibia. Oribi, Roan and Sable The days should be warm to hot, with cooler nights. We will are highly prized antelope and there is a reasonable chance be visiting at the end of the wet season, when rain is less to see Wild Dog as well. Miombo and mopane woodlands are likely but not impossible. The cooler morning temperatures home to specialties like Racket-tailed Roller, Dickenson’s and peak in wildlife activity mean that we must rise early to Kestrel, Arnot’s Chat and Southern Ground Roller. Crimson- make the most of the opportunities available. The pattern breasted Shrike scold us from the acacia trees. Marshy involves early morning and late afternoon excursions, resting grasslands are home to Pink-throated Longclaw, Golden- and relaxing, or travelling, between these times. Basic fitness breasted Bunting and Coppery-tailed Coucal, while the rare is all that is required. Walking will be at a sensible pace Wattled Crane breeds here. Many raptors and waterbirds mostly on the flat. The terrain at Victoria Falls is the only pass through on migration. Parties of Abdim’s Stork are often exception, with an optional walk to the bottom of the falls. accompanied by Yellow-billed Kite, European Hobby and Temperatures can be high, and we will take things easy Brown Snake-Eagle. Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Bradfield’s during the heat of the day. Hornbill, Black-collared Barbet, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Retz’s Helmetshrike, Magpie Shrike and Monotonous Lark ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD are also found here. Full-board accommodation is provided in good hotels, lodges and camps. We shall spend one night at Zelda Guestfarm, CHOBE NATIONAL PARK one night at Thakadu Lodge, two nights at Xaro Lodge, one On day nine, our journey takes us back over the border into night at Mahango Lodge, Caprivi, two nights at Kalizo Lodge, Botswana for two nights, exploring Chobe National Park. A Caprivi, two nights at Garden Lodge, Chobe, two nights at the combination of game drives and a boat cruise allows us to Kingdom Hotel, Victoria falls. Thakadu, Xaro and Kalizo are experience Africa as it was 1000 years ago – full of animals. permanent tented camps. All accommodation has private Chobe is said to contain the highest concentration of facilities en suite. elephants in the world, with an estimated winter population of around 46,000. We will see a wide range of antelope, stalked PRICE INCLUDES ….. by Lions, including the strikingly colourful Chobe Bushbuck. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local This is the only area south of the Zambezi River where Puku guide, full-board accommodation (starting with lunch on 4th, can be seen. ending with lunch on 15th), soft drinks at meal times, local transport, all safari activities and boat trips, park entrance Over 350 bird species have been recorded. These include a fees and international flights. whole swathe of wetland species, with families like kingfishers, bee-eaters, herons and storks well represented. WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED The boat ride should reveal Saddle-billed Stork, Long-toed Travel insurance. Cost of obtaining a Zambian visa (approx Plover, Pink-backed Pelican, and African Skimmer, with a US$50 and obtainable on arrival in Zambia). Items of a Malachite Kingfisher at every bend. personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry. Heuglin's Robin is a delight to hear in the early morning. Diederik Cuckoo, Emerald-spotted Dove, Purple Roller, INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow to Windhoek (via Amethyst Sunbird, Orange-breasted Bush-shrike and Crested Frankfurt), using the scheduled services of Namibian Airlines. Francolin are common birds of the bush, while a Greater We return to Windhoek from Victoria Falls also with Namibian Honeyguide may try to attract our attention. Airlines. Outbound flight departs mid-afternoon, return flight arrives back late morning. On day 11 we will then travel to Zambia’s Mosi-oa-Tunya, Domestic flights from ‘The Smoke that Thunders’. Manchester and other UK airports are available on this tour. See booking form for details. VICTORIA FALLS In 1881, F.C. Selous wrote “…Victoria Falls - One of, if not 13 nights including the, most transcendentally beautiful natural phenomenon on two overnight flights: 3rd to 16th April 2016 this side of Paradise", and who could argue? We shall visit this breathtaking curtain of water, and there is also has great Principal leader: Phil Palmer birding nearby. Rock Pratincoles nest on the boulders surrounded by rushing water, Schalow’s Turacos and Local guide: Willem Ganeb Trumpeter Hornbills take fruit from trees on the cliffs of the gorge, while Meyer’s Parrots, Broad-tailed Paradise Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader Whydahs, Shaft-tailed Whydahs, Copper Sunbirds and and a local guide Stierling’s Wren-warblers can be found among the bushes. A Cost with discount boat trip on the Zambezi will allow us to search for African (if you book before £4710 per person sharing th Finfoot, an elusive species, but we have a great track record 19 December 2015): (£320 single supplement) for finding them. Giant Kingfishers and Pied Kingfishers fly over Hippopotamus as they move ahead of our boat, and Full Cost: £4860 per person sharing African Darter circle high overhead. We have even seen African Scops Owl during a cruise here. Sometimes a Bat Deposit: £1000 per person Hawk patrols over the hotel.

19 GEORGIA superb birdwatching at the crossroads of Europe and Asia

Join us on this, our third tour to the stunningly beautiful country of Georgia. Journey north over the Jvari Pass for a breathtaking visit to the Greater Caucasus, where the birds complement the impossibly beautiful mountain landscape. Majestic Golden Eagles and magnificent Lammergeiers soar across the snow-covered peaks. Wallcreepers busily build their nests amongst the rocks and crevices, whilst the calls of both Red-billed and Alpine Chough echo off the canyon walls.

In contrast, the Kakheti region of south-east Georgia is a land of rolling steppe and dry savannah. The Caucasian Black Grouse birds and landscapes here are similar to those found in Anatolia and specialist species include Rufous Bushchat, Menetries’s Warbler and Isabelline Wheatear. Home to an abundance of raptors, at times the sky is filled with Black and Griffon Vultures. Several pairs of Eastern Imperial Eagles breed in areas we will explore, along with Saker, Long-legged Buzzard, Levant Sparrowhawk and Lesser Kestrel.

ITINERARY imposing snow covered Mount Kazbegi. We have a three night stay which gives us time to explore the valley and KAZBEGI MOUNTAIN surrounding mountains. In the early morning we take a stroll Our flight will take us to the country’s capital, Tbilisi. Since the at the base of the steep slopes. The eerie curlew-like calls of dramatic Rose Revolution, now over a decade ago, Tbilisi Caucasian Snowcock will soon become familiar to us as they has blossomed into an attractive, vibrant and cosmopolitan call from high up amongst the rocky crags. Occasionally a city. We will stay overnight in a comfortable city centre hotel pair will wander out in full view. The localised Caucasian before embarking on our eight day tour. Black Grouse is also found here. They prefer grassy slopes adjacent to patches of dwarf rhododendrons. At times several After breakfast we will travel into the Greater Caucasus males can be seen doing their fluttering displays, particularly mountains, breaking the journey with some birding at the if a female deigns to wander into their lekking territory. Szhinvali Reservoir. The verdant beech woods in the valley here are home to Black and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers. Later in the day we shall explore the corries and abandoned Both Semi-collared and Red-breasted Flycatchers should be farmsteads higher up the valley. Here we will find Rock on territory. Persian Squirrels are also found in the forest. Thrush, Alpine Accentor, Black Redstart, Red-fronted Serin and Twite. If the weather is clear we should witness the Higher up, just before the pass, is an interesting monument passage of migrating flocks of Steppe Buzzards, which are erected in Soviet times. It stands atop a sheer cliff which is a often joined by Black Kites, harriers and accipiters. nesting site for Wallcreeper, Ring Ouzel and Black Redstart. Alpine Choughs pose on the railings and we shall be on the On day four we take a short drive uphill to the famous look out for the imposing Lammergeier, as well as enjoying landmark sat on the ridge above Stepantsminda. The some simply stunning mountain scenery. As we continue over th Tsminda Sameba is a 14 Century church which has become the pass we will check the roadside for Caucasian Water a symbol of the nation. With fierce determination it clings to Pipit, Snow Finch and the strikingly pale Caucasian Shore its lofty isolated perch, defying the elements and the rigours Lark. of time. We will look for the scarce inhabitants of the rocky mountainside. Two sought after species breed in this Late in the afternoon we will reach Stepantsminda. This beautiful and remote landscape, the Guldenstadt's Redstart quaint village nestles in the valley bottom, beneath the

20 and Great Rosefinch. Both can be difficult to find, but poor songs from the reedbeds. This is also a regular site for overnight weather may push them down to within our reach. Armenian Gull.

The woodland below Tsminda Sameba holds singing Green Back in the capital we will be treated to a typical Georgian Warblers and Mountain Chiffchaffs. The surrounding banquet washed down with local wines and traditional beers. meadows harbour many Common Rosefinches whose simple The following morning we will head back to the airport in good whistled song carries far in the clear mountain air. Barred time for our flight home. Warblers and Corncrakes breed in meadows in the valley bottom. CLIMATE AND PACE In the mountains it is often clear but chilly, although rain is a CHACHUNA AND THE IORI VALLEY possibility. In contrast, the south is normally warm and dry. After three days in the mountains we will head south-east to Breakfast will be taken at 8am on most mornings, allowing the Kakheti region. After passing Tbilisi, the landscape time for short pre-breakfast walks. At Stepantsminda we will gradually changes from vineyards and orchards to rolling depart at 6am on one morning, in order to be out early to see plains, sandstones cliffs and buttes. Our destination is the the snowcock. Full days will be spent in the field and basic Chachuna Nature Reserve in the Iori Uplands, spending a fitness is all that is required. At Stepantsminda there will be night in the historic town of Dedoplistskaro to break the some uphill walking which we will manage according to the journey. abilities of the group. Transport will be provided to take the group to the higher valleys and vantage points to reduce the The birdlife here is very diverse. Long-legged Buzzards and need for any strenuous walking. Montagu’s Harriers hunt over open fields. Vivid blue Rollers and colonies of multi-coloured Bee-eaters occupy the sandy ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD cliffs of the dry river beds. Lesser Grey and Woodchat Full board accommodation is provided with one night at the Shrikes are common in the roadside scrub, whilst Isabelline Hotel Kopala, Tbilisi, three nights at the Hotel Kazbegi, one Wheatears chat and scold. Calandra Larks display over the night at the Dedoplistskaro Hotel, two nights at the Chachuna cereal fields and Black-headed Buntings seemingly occupy Reserve, one night back at the Dedoplistskaro Hotel, and the every weedy corner. As the landscape becomes more arid final night back at the Hotel Kopala, Tbilisi. The hotel in Tbilisi Black-eared Wheatears and Short-toed Larks appear. In the is a lovely traditional Georgian hotel and the restaurant offers heat of the day huge Black Vultures and Griffon Vultures soar a panoramic view of the city. At Chachuna we stay in on the thermals. Tight flocks of migrating Rose-coloured bungalows which provide simple clean accommodation with Starlings flash their pink hues as they speed by. comfortable beds and hot showers. All rooms have en suite facilities. During the day we will take a picnic lunch or eat in a We have a two night stay at some lovely tourist bungalows cafe or restaurant. alongside the Dali Reservoir, which was built in the Soviet era. Luckily the proposed irrigation project did not come to PRICE INCLUDES ….. fruition and the area still retains the delicate balance of All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and a local habitats which makes the birdwatching so interesting. guide, full board accommodation (starting with breakfast on the 28th and ending with breakfast on the 6th), soft drinks at The reservoir is home to small numbers of Ruddy Shelduck meal times, bottled water throughout, local transport by mini and the occasional Pygmy Cormorant. Migrant herons drop in coach, reserve entrance fees, international flights. on their way through, as do flocks of terns and waders. A colony of Lesser Kestrels occupy the deserted pump houses WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED on the dam wall, whilst the striking Levant Sparrowhawk Travel insurance, personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry, displays over the adjacent riparian woodland. Other breeding snacks and drinks in airports. Please note: UK citizens no raptors here include Saker Falcon and Eastern Imperial longer require a visa to enter Georgia. Eagle. We should have an opportunity to study both species near their nest sites. Black Francolins call from the scrubby areas, whilst Rufous Bushchats sing from prominent perches. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from London Gatwick (via Istanbul) to Tbilisi Menetries’s and Eastern Orphean Warbler are very common. using the scheduled services of Turkish Airlines. Outbound The rocky bluffs hold Chukar, Rock Nuthatch, Rock Sparrow, flights depart late morning, return flight arrives back late Rock Bunting and Blue Rock Thrush. afternoon. Domestic flights from Manchester and other Returning to Dedoplistskaro for another night, we will have UK airports are available on this tour. See booking form another opportunity to birdwatch the transition areas between for details. dry steppe and areas under cultivation. The species we will be looking for include Spanish Sparrow and Ortolan Bunting. 9 nights: 27th April to 6th May 2016

The next day we will return to Tbilisi. Our journey will take us Principal leader: John McLoughlin through the wine growing region of Signagi. Georgia is famous for its wine and claims to be the home of viticulture. Local guide: Zura Javakhishvili Archaeologists have traced back the production of wine in the region to 6,000BC. The Georgian method of wine making Maximum group size: 8 clients with one leader utilises clay pots or kvevris in which the grape juice is and a local guide fermented. It also happens to be the site of one of the oldest Cost with discount Christian monasteries in the world. Chukars call from the arid (if you book before £1980 per person sharing rocky slopes. Crag Martins and Blue Rock Thrushes are 12th January 2016): (£190 single supplement) common. Small wooded gullies hold singing Green Warblers, Red-breasted Flycatchers and Nightingales. On the way we Full Cost: £2080 per person sharing will stop at a small steppe lake to look for passage waders such as Wood Sandpiper, Little Stint and Red-necked Deposit: £300 per person Phalarope. White-winged Black Terns are sometimes seen in their hundreds. Great Reed Warblers shout out their raucous

21 COTO DONANA AND ALENTEJO the best of southern Spain and Portugal

Spain and Portugal are popular holiday destinations for birdwatchers from the UK, and with very good reason. They are great places for birds, with a pleasant climate in the spring. It is a short three hour flight to Faro and by mid-afternoon we can be birding in the Coto Donana. We will spend four nights at the picturesque town of El Rocio on the edge of the marismas and then three nights at Mertola in the Alentejo, the beautiful Portuguese plains. Great Bustards We know of good sites for Black-shouldered Kite, Little Bustard, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Penduline Tit and Red-necked Nightjar. In one of their last strongholds, Great Bustards can be seen displaying. The thrill of the quest will take us on in pursuit of Crested Coots and White-headed Ducks, two of Europe's rarest breeding birds. Purple Gallinules can be watched at close range attending to their tiny young. Glossy Ibis, Purple Heron and Night Heron will all be seen nesting.

By arranging a two-centre, seven night holiday we will have the benefit of a full range of habitats, where we can find many of the region’s special birds.

ITINERARY La Rocina holds similar species, plus many small birds THE COTO DONANA including Savi's, Reed, Great Reed, Cetti's, Fan-tailed and Europe's second largest delta, where the River Guadalquivir Melodious Warblers, Crested Tit, Stonechat, Woodchat enters the Atlantic, is home to some of the rarest birds on the Shrike and Short-toed Treecreeper. The Spotless Starling is continent. Justifiably one of the world's most famous common. Another Iberian speciality found here is the Red- reserves, Donana plays host to large numbers of birds of necked Nightjar. We shall try one or two reliable sites on prey. Black Kite, Red Kite, Booted Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, evening or early morning visits. Griffon Vulture and Marsh Harrier are the commoner raptors, along with the rarer Black-shouldered Kite and Spanish A whole day will be required to explore the vast marismas to Imperial Eagle. the east of El Rocio. Hoopoe and Bee-eater, two of Europe's most colourful birds, are both very common here. There is a Marshes at El Rocio provide feeding grounds for thousands continuous presence of raptors, and other specialities include of birds at the time of our visit. Passage waders are Marbled Duck, Calandra, Short-toed and Lesser Short-toed numerous, particularly Little Stint, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, Larks and Spectacled Warbler, with the chance of Pin-tailed Black-tailed Godwit, Black-winged Stilt, Avocet and Ringed Sandgrouse. Birds found throughout the whole of this Plover. Collared Pratincoles breed here in good numbers, fantastic area include Squacco and Night Herons, Little and and are regularly seen flashing their chestnut underwings as Cattle Egrets, Kentish Plover, Yellow-legged Gull, Turtle they chase flying insects. Spoonbills, Greater Flamingos and Dove, Little Owl, Pallid Swift, Woodlark, Southern Grey Shrike White Storks are common. Terns feeding over the marshes and Nightingale. include Whiskered and Black, with the occasional Gull-billed, Caspian and White-winged Black. White-headed Duck came back from the brink of extinction in Spain in the late twentieth century and is now flourishing. We Pools and a reedbed at Acebuche give us the opportunity to will visit a breeding site on the east bank of the Guadalquivir. watch, at close range, the Purple Gallinule. Other birds seen The Crested Coot, one of the rarest breeding birds in Europe, include Little Bittern and Red-crested Pochard. Azure-winged is also present in small numbers. Red-crested Pochards and Magpies are very common in the stone pines.

22 breeding-plumaged Black-necked Grebes complete a wonderful picture. At Brazo del Este there are Penduline Tits CLIMATE AND PACE and Purple Gallinules too. Spring in southern Iberia is often warm or fairly hot, but with a chance of cooler weather or even rain, particularly on the ALENTEJO plains. Breakfast will be taken at about 7.30am most On day five we will head west, visiting coastal wetlands at mornings, with the option of one or two short pre-breakfast Huelva before crossing the border into Portugal. The excursions. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will Alentejo, a region in south-central Portugal, is typical of the be spent in the field and short/medium length walks on the rolling plains which extend eastwards into Spain. Great flat will be undertaken. There will be little or no uphill walking. swathes of wild flowers provide a memorable sight and attract masses of butterflies. So impressive is the carpet of mainly ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD white wild flowers that it has given rise to the local name Full-board accommodation is provided, with four nights in the ‘Campo Branco’ meaning White Country. Hotel Toruno, El Rocio on the edge of the Coto Donana and three nights at the Beira Rio, Mertola, in Portugal’s Alentejo. Many excellent birds are within reach of our base. We will All rooms have en suite bathrooms. Packed lunches will be visit a reliable site for Great Bustard to watch displaying taken most days. males. Flocks of over 50 have been seen in this area. Little Bustards are common too, and we also have a chance of PRICE INCLUDES ….. Black-bellied Sandgrouse. The overhead wires are regularly All birdwatching excursions with expert leaders, full-board dotted with Southern Grey Shrikes. Woodchat Shrike, a true th accommodation (starting with dinner on 30 , ending with Mediterranean speciality, is also found here in good numbers. th breakfast on 7 ), soft drinks at meal times, local transport by Quails can be heard making their distinctive calls and Red- mini-bus, international flights and airport taxes. rumped Swallows sweep over the meadows. Montagu's Harriers are common; the superb males being a regular sight as they hunt over fields full of wildflowers. Indeed, they WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. provided one of the highlights of a previous trip when a male was watched at close range being mobbed by an angry Lesser Kestrel. Other raptors likely include Black Kite, Red INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Kite, Black-shouldered Kite and Black Vulture. Bonelli’s, We will fly from Leeds/Bradford to Faro, using the scheduled Golden and Spanish Imperial Eagles occasionally hunt over services of Jet2. The outbound flight departs early morning this area too. and the return flight arrives back mid-afternoon. It is also possible to join this trip from other airports including The plains and small farms are favourite breeding areas of Manchester. Please contact us for details. Roller, Calandra Lark, Crag Martin and Lesser Kestrel, and we will also watch the Spanish Sparrows that breed in the 7 nights: 30th April to 7th May 2016 untidy White Storks’ nests. This latter species breeds here in as high a density as anywhere in Europe. Principal leaders: Andrew Woodall

Great Spotted Cuckoos are regularly seen in this area, along Maximum group size: 7 clients with one leader or with their hosts, Azure-winged Magpies. Other localized 13 clients with two leaders species likely to be found here are Red-necked Nightjar, Cost with discount Spotless Starling and Collared Pratincole. Larks include (if you book before £1490 per person sharing Thekla, Short-toed and Calandra. The largest colony of 15th January 2016): (£1590 single supplement) Lesser Kestrels in Portugal breed around the ancient town of Mertola. This is, in part, due to a nestbox scheme. A similar Full cost: £145 per person sharing scheme has also been very beneficial to nesting Rollers. Deposit: £300 per person On day eight we will drive to Faro airport in good time for our flight home.

Azure-winged Magpies

23 SW TURKEY eastern birds and Ephesus (plus a great chance of Brown Fish Owl)

Turkey is rated as one of the most exciting birdwatching destinations in the Western Palearctic, yet it is still relatively unexplored. The main reason for this is the sheer size of the country. As a consequence we are not likely to bump into any other birdwatchers.

Being such a huge country the prospective visitor has a choice. You can travel many hundreds of miles from west to east, north to south and back, in search of every single species. Alternatively you can base yourself in one relatively small, but diverse area, get to know it well and enjoy what is to be Brown Fish Owl found. We have chosen the second option and will concentrate on the south-west, where typical Mediterranean birds are joined by a number of eastern specialities.

Famous for its rich culture, ancient ruins, good food, friendly people, reliable climate and golden beaches, SW Turkey can offer you all of these and more. White-throated Robin, Kruper's Nuthatch, Dalmatian Pelican, Red- fronted Serin, Collared Pratincole, Masked Shrike, Cinereous Bunting, Cretzschmar's Bunting, Eleonora's Falcon, Spur-winged Plover, Smyrna Kingfisher, Caucasian Shore Lark, Finsch’s Wheatear, Snow Finch and Ruppell's Warbler are among the many exciting birds present in this area at the time of our visit. Add to these the recently rediscovered Brown Fish Owls near Antalya and you have the ingredients for a truly outstanding birdwatching holiday.

We will fly to Antalya, and our first hotel is just a short drive away. From here we will look for the fish owl, before moving on to Koycegiz, where we will spend four nights. From Koycegiz we will explore a variety of wetland and mountain sites, including the Dalyan Delta. On day seven we will drive to Pamukkale, visiting the famous travertine pools as well as searching for Cinereous Bunting and Finsch’s Wheatear. Finally, we will drive to Bafa, our base for the last three nights, birding at Lake Karine and Bafa Golu, as well as allowing time to visit Ephesus.

ITINERARY shores of the lake and steep-sided, pine clad mountains complete the idyllic picture. A variety of interesting birds such GREEN CANYON as Squacco Heron, Penduline Tit, Great Reed Warbler and We arrive in Antalya in the afternoon and drive straight to our Masked Shrike can be found just a short walk from the hotel. hotel. The next morning we will make an early start to look for the spectacular Brown Fish Owl. Until recently this bird had Lake Koycegiz and the Dalyan Delta are joined by a narrow mythical status in the Western Palearctic. Then it was channel which passes the town of Dalyan. The area is most discovered that several pairs were thriving in flooded canyons easily explored by boat and we shall spend a half day north-east of Antalya. We will take our own boat to one such travelling along the reed-fringed lake and down channels site, at Green Canyon, where we have an excellent chance of leading to the delta and then to the sea. We will explore the seeing them at their daytime roosts. ruins of Kaunos, with its impressive amphitheatre and Rock Nuthatches, and marvel at the ancient Lycean rock tombs. THE DALYAN DELTA On day three we will drive to Lake Koycegiz, our base for the Perhaps the most sought-after breeding bird here is the next four nights. The Hotel Panorama Plaza is situated on the Smyrna Kingfisher. It is, however, rather scarce and we will

24 need to keep a sharp eye out in order to find it. Much more Lake Karine is a huge brackish lagoon which is internationally numerous is the delightful Penduline Tit which can be found important for its breeding Dalmatian Pelicans. Also present in the reedbeds and waterside trees throughout the area. are Caspian Terns, Lesser Kestrels, Long-legged Buzzards, Migrant terns include both Whiskered and White-winged Marsh Sandpipers and Kentish Plovers. In the afternoon we Black. The lake is one of only two places in Turkey where will explore a track leading along the south edge of the lake Nile Soft-shelled Turtles are found; we know of a spot where where a breeding colony of Ruddy Shelducks should have we can watch them without causing disturbance. small ducklings. Collared Pratincoles hawk over the marsh and Isabelline Wheatears occur in the drier areas. In the drier areas we can expect to see Eastern Olivaceous Warbler as well as Cetti's and Fan-tailed Warblers and Black- We will also visit the western shore of Bafa Golu, where a headed Wagtail. Rufous Bushchat is best found by listening similar range of birds can be found. If the water levels are for its thrush-like song. Masked Shrike and Ruppell's Warbler favourable, thousands of migrant waders can be seen. are two more local specialities and can be found alongside the more familiar Bee-eaters, Crested Larks, Red-rumped The world famous archaeological site of Ephesus is just an Swallows, Black-eared Wheatears, Woodchat Shrikes, hour’s drive to the north. We will set aside three hours for our Spanish Sparrows and Rollers. Birds of prey in the area visit. Even the most die-hard birder could not fail to be include Levant Sparrowhawk, migrant Red-footed Falcons impressed, but just in case, there are Rock Nuthatches, Blue and regular Eleonora's Falcons. One evening, after dinner, Rock Thrushes and Long-legged Buzzards in and around the we will try to see a Scops Owl. ruins!

The mountains behind Koycegiz rise quickly to over 7000 CLIMATE AND PACE feet. We can ascend to over half this height on the road to Most years we experience warm or hot weather, with little or Arla. The main prize here is the Kruper's Nuthatch, an no rain. On a couple of occasions we have had unsettled endemic to the region. Short-toed Eagles can be watched weather lasting several days. Breakfast will normally be taken hovering over distant ridges. In the woods there are both at about 7am. We will need a much earlier start for the fish Middle Spotted and Syrian Woodpeckers as well as the owls. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be localised Sombre Tit. Jays are particularly numerous, the spent in the field and short/medium length walks will be local race exhibiting rather dark plumage and a black crown. undertaken regularly. There will be very little uphill walking, Further down the valley in the more open areas we will watch even in the mountains, which will be done at a sensible pace. for the highly vocal Black-headed Bunting singing from low bushes as well as the stunning Black-eared Wheatear. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided, with two nights at the A day trip to Gulubeli Pass, east of Dalaman, will reveal lots AC Hotel, Antalya, four nights at the Hotel Panorama Plaza at of mountain species. We discovered this site in 1999, where Koycegiz, one night at the Richmond Pamukkale Hotel and a road cuts through some of the most dramatic scenery in three nights at an excellent hotel at Bafa. All rooms have an Western Turkey. With snow-capped peaks in all directions, en suite bathroom. Packed lunches will be taken every day. Red-fronted Serin is fairly common and Crimson-winged Finch is possible. The main prize in this area is the White- PRICE INCLUDES ….. throated Robin, a bird which combines beauty, scarcity and a All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board restricted range, in stunning natural surroundings. On past accommodation (starting with dinner on 2nd, ending with lunch visits we have never failed to find them at an easily on 12th), soft drinks at meal times, bottled water throughout, accessible site. Other species include Chough, Wryneck, local transport by mini-bus, boat trips, entrance to Caucasian Shore Lark, Black Redstart, Ortolan, Woodlark, archaeological sites and international flights. Rock Sparrow, Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting and Snow Finch. Cretzschmar's Buntings can easily be found, the males WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED betraying their presence with their four-syllable song. Also Travel insurance. Cost of visa - obtained by a simple online common in the area are Ruppell's and Eastern Orphean registration and payment of £15 (we can help if you do not Warblers and Blue Rock Thrush, and we have a good chance have access to the internet). Personal items, alcoholic drinks, of Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler. laundry.

PAMUKKALE INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS On day seven we will drive up to Pamukkale, a spectacular Direct flights from Manchester to Antalya, returning from world heritage site and great birding destination. Hot springs Bodrum with a major charter carrier. Outbound flight departs emanating from the hillside deposit calcium carbonate in mid-morning, return flight arrives back late evening. It may semi-circular formations known as travertines. These natural also be possible to fly from London. Please phone for details. pools have attracted visitors for hundreds of years. We can paddle in the ‘healing waters’, but we will also be on the nd th lookout for three of the regions specialities, Cinereous 10 nights: 2 to 12 May 2016 Bunting, Olive-tree Warbler and Finsch’s Wheatear. Principal leader: Paul J. Willoughby BAFA, KARINE AND EPHESUS On day eight we will drive west to Bafa, our base for the last Maximum group size: 6 clients with one leader or three nights. We will spend a full day at Lake Karine. With the 12 clients with two leaders ancient ruins of Miletus in the background, the marshes are Cost with discount particularly attractive. Spoonbills and Glossy Ibis can be (if you book before £1980 per person sharing th watched at close range; Garganey and Wood Sandpipers 17 January 2016): (£260 single supplement) feed side by side in the water meadows; Bee-eaters hawk insects overhead; and Spur-winged Plovers display on the Full Cost: £2080 per person sharing drier areas. Past visits have yielded some of our best sightings, including both Great Snipe and western Turkey's Deposit: £300 per person third ever White-tailed Plover!

25 LATVIA AND LITHUANIA two jewels in the Baltic

Being rich in game and wildfowl, Latvia was once the luxurious secret hide-away for the Prussian aristocracy. Later, the Soviet elite would enjoy weekends hunting in its marshes and ancient forests, or strolling along the deserted Baltic beaches searching for amber washed up by the tide.

For this reason, Latvia’s rich natural resources have survived intact to the modern day. The peace-loving Latvians have been welcomed into the European Union and much of their landscape is protected. A low population density means that there is little threat to the wild areas; something few countries Male Capercaillie can still boast.

Our tour takes us into forests full of Elk, Red Deer, Beaver and Wild Boar. Martens and Red Squirrel are frequently seen. Woodpeckers leave their mark on every tree; we may see all eight Latvian species on the trip. Green Sandpiper and Goosander doze by golden marigolds in inky pools shaded by black alders. Ural Owls breed in neighbouring Lithuania, and a trip over the border will give us a good chance to see this phantom of the forest.

Our customers have been captivated by the beautiful location of our hotel in Kemeri National Park. The charming rural landscape is ablaze with golden, flower-filled meadows that stretch over the horizon, dotted with dew ponds and medieval manor houses. Here we are served up large portions of premier bird species such as Roller, Corncrake, Montagu’s Harrier, Black Stork and Lesser Spotted Eagle. Vast swaying reedbeds resound to the boom of Bitterns, only becoming silent when White-tailed Eagles approach. Flamboyant Ruffs jostle for the right to mate, and other waders include Temminck’s Stint and Spotted Redshank. Capercaillie and Hazel Grouse come to pick up grit at the roadside once their pre-dawn dances have ended; there are high populations of both here.

Cape Kolka is the best location in spring to see movements of passerines. A spike of forested dunes jutting into the Baltic is overflown by flocks of finches, buntings and larks on their big push north. In the right conditions, Bluethroats, Common Crossbills, Golden Orioles and hundreds of wagtails fall from the sky. Watching the sea brings an exciting mix of divers, scoters and Long-tailed Ducks, with Rough-legged Buzzard, Merlin, pipits and finches all hugging the coast. Pallid Harrier is one of four species of harrier that we may find. There is a surprise around every corner. Birding is in its infancy here, and new discoveries are frequently made.

ITINERARY contest, while Crested Tit is likely to be one of the first birds we see. KEMERI NATIONAL PARK AND BIRZAI After a short flight we will land by the medieval city of Riga With two nights here we will make trips to a range of lakes, and our hotel is not far away. It was once a top-secret Soviet reedbeds and forests. Inside Kemeri National Park there are retreat where Brezhnev’s daughter practised ballet with only numerous trails that allow us to seek out the many species of bird song to accompany her. It is hidden in a mossy forest, woodpecker. Black and Grey-headed shout the loudest, so beside a small peaceful lake. Pied Flycatchers compete with are usually the first to be seen. The rotting spruces are the many Wood Warblers for top billing in this woodland song perfect for good populations of Three-toed Woodpecker. We have enjoyed great views of them on every trip.

26 It might tempt fate to say that Middle Spotted Woodpecker is adjacent meadows draw Lesser Spotted Eagles. Corncrake guaranteed; but they nest by our hotel and are certainly not will be arriving and even wolves are seen occasionally. rare. White-backed Woodpecker, too, is reliably found. Green Sandpipers utilise old Fieldfare and Redwing nests and We will travel to Birzai in Lithuania, passing fish ponds and Golden Orioles add an exotic touch to these primeval-looking meadows frequented by Osprey, and Montagu’s and Marsh northern forests. The striking white-headed race of Long- Harriers. This is made easier as there are no border tailed Tit would turn any birder’s head. They often interrupt restrictions now. Our friends in Birzai monitor breeding Ural breakfast by appearing at the hotel window. Owls that use natural holes rather than boxes. In good vole years there may be up to 30 pairs in the area. Two nights in Surrounding fields, copses and deserted orchards provide the area give us an excellent chance of finding these ghostly homes for Ortolan Bunting, Hoopoe and Serin. Together with birds. In addition, the forest is superb for woodpeckers, a remnant population of Crested Lark and Tawny Pipit, it feels Icterine Warblers, Red-backed Shrikes, Red-breasted strange to see species associated with the Mediterranean Flycatchers and Pygmy Owls, whilst marshes next to our breeding alongside birds from the taiga zone. Even the gaudy hotel are home to breeding Little Crakes. Roller reaches this far north. After our final morning’s birding, we will drive back up to Riga Our timing means that skeins of Taiga Bean Geese will be for our flight home. If you would like to extend your stay with a pausing to refuel. Ruff dance, Snipe drum and Garganey city break, please don’t hesitate to contact us. grunt, as water levels drop in the precious watermeadows. Black-tailed Godwit conduct aerial displays and seven CLIMATE AND PACE whistles betray the occasional passing Whimbrel. Our eyes Weather is changeable, in fact, rather similar to British will be open for the many Temminck’s Stints or occasional weather at this time of year. Breakfast will be taken at about Broad-billed Sandpipers that pass through. Larger lakes, 7am most mornings, with optional pre-breakfast trips at Cape smothered with reeds, are home to many Great Reed Kolka to fit in with migration patterns. Basic fitness is all that Warblers. The voice of Savi’s Warbler and Bittern are brought is required. Full days will be spent in the field and reasonable to us on the wind while Penduline Tits carry pussy willow fluff length walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly. to their hanging nests. Three species of marsh tern (White- winged, Black and Whiskered) test the stability of flattened- ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD reed foundations in readiness to lay, and Common Cranes Full board accommodation is provided, with two nights at will already have eggs. Kemeri National Park, three nights at Cape Kolka and two nights at Birzai. All accommodation is of a very good CAPE KOLKA AND THE BALTIC COAST standard, with excellent food. All rooms have en suite Our journey to Cape Kolka takes us along the Baltic coast. facilities. Lunch is usually packed, and taken in the field to Among the ice age erratics, migrants pause on their journey maximise birding opportunities. north. Red-backed Shrike and Bluethroat are expected and, by scanning flocks of Grey-headed and Blue-headed PRICE INCLUDES ….. Wagtails, we will hope for one of the many Citrine Wagtails All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local now breeding in Latvia. Wryneck and Thrush Nightingale will guide, full-board accommodation (starting with breakfast on be noisily proclaiming ownership of blossoming fruit trees. A 4th, ending with lunch on 10th), soft drinks at meal times, snippet of a Common Rosefinch’s ‘pleased-to-meet-you’ song bottled water throughout, reserve entrance fees, local may betray the first of the season. transport by minibus, international flights.

We have three nights here, and our activities are governed by WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED weather and wind direction. Like Falsterbo in the autumn, this Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. place offers us a chance to witness the spectacle of mass bird migration. Dawn could see thousands of Siskins and INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS other finches heading out to sea. Among them are Woodlark, Direct flights are available from London Gatwick to Riga using Golden Orioles and Common Crossbills. The latter are easy the scheduled services of Air Baltic. The outbound flight to pick out as they chip to each other in flight. Their stocky leaves late afternoon, with the return arriving late afternoon. cousin, the Parrot Crossbill, nests in pines on the cape itself, Flights are also available from Manchester, Leeds and many and occasionally drinks from car park puddles. At sea, large other regional airports using KLM, for a small supplement. numbers of Velvet and Common Scoters loaf among breeding-plumaged Long-tailed Duck. A procession of eiders rd th and divers provides the opportunity for us to pick out rarer 7 nights: 3 to 10 May 2016 fare. Our recce yielded a breeding-plumaged White-billed Diver among many Black-throated. Caspian Tern is likely, Principal leader: Phil Palmer while one year we found Latvia’s second Iceland Gull here. Local guide: Karlis Millers By late morning, raptors have gathered above the point. Sparrowhawk and Buzzard are the most numerous, with Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader smaller numbers of all four harriers, Merlin, Hobby, Golden and a local guide and White-tailed Eagles and Rough-legged Buzzard. Cost with discount Something rare is noted here annually and almost any (if you book before £1780 per person sharing th European raptor could occur in spring. 18 January 2016): (£180 single supplement)

BIRZAI, LITHUANIA Full Cost: £1880 per person sharing Leaving Cape Kolka on day six we take the road known among local birders as the ‘Grouse Safari’. Just inland, the Deposit: £300 per person woods hold good numbers of Capercaillie and Hazel Grouse and our journey could produce sightings of either. The

27 NORTHERN GREECE a spring visit to one of our favourite destinations

Our visits to the Kerkini region have always been amongst the most popular Black-headed Bunting of our European trips. We base the tour at a single hotel where we stay for seven nights. The hotel is beautifully situated against a backdrop of forested mountains and overlooking Lake Kerkini. The variety of birds, butterflies and wildflowers is simply astonishing - this is a great place to spend a week in the sun enjoying the wildlife.

Scenically the most impressive wetland in Northern Greece, Lake Kerkini also holds more birds than any of the others. Over 300 species have been recorded in the national park, including 137 that breed. Surrounded by hills and mountains, the birdwatching spectacle is one of the country’s best kept secrets.

Greece’s geographical position has resulted in a diversity of birdlife which comprises a mixture of species from Europe, the Mediterranean, North Africa and Asia. Lake Kerkini lies on an important migratory flyway between East Africa and Northern Europe. The timing of our visit means we shall experience a taste of this vast migration as well as a multitude of species which make this area their home.

Exciting Balkan species include Dalmatian Pelican, Rock Partridge, Rock Nuthatch, Sombre Tit, Masked Shrike and the localised Olive-tree Warbler, whilst the Mediterranean influence brings Little Bitterns, Purple and Squacco Herons, Collared Pratincoles and Slender-billed Gulls. Other birds include Lesser Grey Shrikes, Penduline Tits and Grey-headed Woodpeckers. Golden, White-tailed, Short-toed, Booted and Lesser Spotted Eagles all breed in the forests surrounding the lake.

ITINERARY Great White Egret, Purple Heron, Squacco Heron, Night Heron and Spoonbill. LAKE KERKINI Our base for the seven nights is the excellent Hotel Erodios, Over 200 pairs of White Storks nest on roofs and telegraph overlooking Lake Kerkini. The hotel is beautifully situated, poles in the surrounding villages. Many of their nests contain and pelicans, storks, herons and raptors are a regular sight colonies of busy Spanish Sparrows. Several pairs of Black from the restaurant area. A Golden Oriole provided an Stork also breed within the national park. Black-necked untimely distraction to breakfast on one occasion! Grebes breed in small numbers, whilst Whiskered Terns and Black Terns do so in varying numbers each year. The most conspicuous bird on the lake is Dalmatian Pelican; at least 70 pairs nest on specially constructed platforms. The Wildfowl present include Ferruginous Duck and Garganey, spectacle is enhanced by numerous White Pelicans which whilst, of the raptors hunting the area, the Lesser Spotted gather here each spring. By boat we can explore a mixed Eagle is the most evident. Little Bitterns and various crakes colony of cormorants and herons that breed in flooded skulk in overgrown ditches whilst Kingfishers flash their riparian forest at the north end of the lake. Alongside huge brilliant colours. Damp areas attract Black-headed Wagtails numbers of Great Cormorants there are Pygmy Cormorant, and Cetti's Warblers, and in nearby woodland and farmland, Rollers, Golden Orioles, Nightingales, Hoopoes, Masked

28 Shrikes and Lesser Grey Shrikes can be seen. We will look We can expect large numbers of Mediterranean Gulls, plus for three special warblers; Olive-tree, Eastern Olivaceous and smaller numbers of Slender-billed Gulls. Kentish Plover nest Eastern Orphean. On recent visits we have been fortunate in in large numbers, and there is normally a large non-breeding finding flocks of recently arrived Eleonora’s Falcons and flock of Greater Flamingos. Passage waders use this site, Rose-coloured Starlings. On an evening excursion we may including Black-tailed Godwit, Avocet, Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, see Little Owl, Scops Owl, Eagle Owl and European Nightjar. Temminck’s Stint, Spotted Redshank, Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint. The site is excellent for rarities: Red-necked SIDIROKASTRO Phalarope, Broad-billed Sandpiper and Terek Sandpiper have Surrounded on three sides by rocky hills and a gorge, the all featured on our previous visits! town of Sidirokastro nestles unobtrusively into the Greek countryside. Behind the town a road leads up through CLIMATE AND PACE maquis-covered hills to a ruined Byzantine castle where Red- Warm, sunny weather is the norm, although we have had rain rumped Swallows are common and Sardinian Warblers on occasions. It is usually cooler in the mountains. Breakfast chatter. On the rocky slopes Black-headed Buntings, Black- will be taken at about 7.30am most mornings. Basic fitness is eared Wheatears and Rock Sparrows can be seen, and both all that is required. Day-long birdwatching excursions will be Woodchat and Red-backed Shrikes are common. Nearby made with short/medium length walks on the flat. Visits to the woodland holds Syrian Woodpecker and Hawfinch. mountains will involve a little uphill walking, done at a Impressive rocky cliffs are attractive to Crag Martins and sensible pace. Alpine Swifts, and we can also expect to find Eastern Subalpine Warbler, Rock Nuthatch and Blue Rock Thrush. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided with seven nights in A road winds up a nearby valley, through a rocky gorge and the wonderfully situated Hotel Erodios by Lake Kerkini. All wooded hillsides, leading to a high plain where Golden rooms have en suite bathrooms. Packed lunches will be Eagles and Long-legged Buzzards hunt. Juniper-clad slopes taken every day. carpeted in wildflowers are home to Ortolan Buntings and Eastern Orphean Warblers. Calandra Larks sing over the PRICE INCLUDES ….. plain, Rock Sparrows call from rocky outcrops and Eastern All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board Bonelli’s Warblers are busy establishing territories. th accommodation (starting with lunch on 16 , ending with breakfast on 23rd), soft drinks at meal times, bottled water KERKINI MOUNTAINS throughout, local transport by mini-bus, boat trip and High mountains to the north and east dominate the international flights. landscape. We are fortunate in that good roads cut into them, allowing access to both mid- and high-elevation habitats. WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. Birds of prey will be uppermost in our minds. At lower levels Levant Sparrowhawks and Short-toed and Booted Eagles can be seen, giving way to Eurasian Sparrowhawks and INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Goshawks higher up. In the mid-elevation mixed woodland Return flights from both London Gatwick and Manchester to Sombre Tits are amongst the highlights. We also know of a Thessaloniki using the scheduled services of Easyjet. beautiful Alder carr that is frequented by the rare Balkan form Outbound flight departs early morning; return flight arrives of White-backed Woodpecker. back early afternoon.

In recent years, our drive to 5000 feet has provided some of 7 nights: 16th to 23rd May 2016 the best and most unexpected sightings. An excellent road winds its way through old-growth pine forest to the rocky Principal leader: John McLoughlin alpine zone. In the former we have seen Black Woodpecker, Crested Tit, Crossbill and Nutcracker. On reaching the bare Maximum group size: 7 clients with one leader or scree slopes we will search for the localized Rock Partridge, 12 clients with two leaders Rock Thrush and Rock Bunting. Cost with discount (if you book before £1590 per person sharing KALOCHORI 31st January 2016): (£170 single supplement) The diversity of birdlife around Lake Kerkini is outstanding for an inland site. Nevertheless, there are some species which Full Cost: £1690 per person sharing can only be found on the coast, so our visit to Kalochori should be very productive. Deposit: £300 per person

Eleonora’s Falcon and Barn Swallow

29 FINLAND owls, owls and more owls, plus some of Europe’s rarest birds

If you enjoy attractive, unspoilt countryside and beautiful owls then this is the holiday for you. Anyone visiting Finland for the first time would have no difficulty experiencing the former. However, to find the owls and many other exciting northern birds, local help is a necessity. We have enlisted the help of Finnature, a bird tour company run by Jari Peltomaki, renowned Finnish birder and photographer. In addition to searching out Hawk Owl, Ural Owl, Great Grey Owl, Pygmy Owl and Tengmalm's Owl we will look for other northern and eastern specialities including Rough-legged Buzzard, Capercaillie, Hazel Grouse, Terek Sandpiper, Red-necked Phalarope, Three-toed Great Grey Owl Woodpecker, Arctic Warbler, Siberian Tit, Waxwing, Siberian Jay, Pine Grosbeak and the enigmatic Red-flanked Bluetail.

During this holiday you will feel a sense of remoteness. Indeed, with a population density of just 17 people per square kilometre (England has over 400) you will quickly forget about congested roads and cluttered cities. We have chosen a two centre holiday for this one week visit, in order to maximise the birdlife and habitats, but minimise the travelling. By flying to Oulu, our first base, we will be in the heart of Finland's best wetlands on day one. After three nights we will drive to Kuusamo, near the Russian border, just south of the Arctic Circle. Here we will spend the rest of the week looking for eastern specialities.

We first visited Finland in 1996, and operated this itinerary almost annually for the next eight years. So after a gap of more than ten years we are thrilled to relaunch this trip, helped by a strengthening Pound against the Euro.

ITINERARY which were once the sea bed. This results in an abundance of wildlife habitat which is impossible to cultivate. LIMINGANLAHTI Having flown to Oulu, our base for the first three nights, we On the lakes we can expect to find Black-throated Diver, will find ourselves on the doorstep of Liminganlahti, Finland's Velvet Scoter, Bean Goose, Caspian Tern, Little Tern and the most important wetland. Typical birds we can expect here splendid Smew. The Red-necked Grebe is a recent colonist. include Common Crane, Slavonian Grebe, Short-eared Owl In the damp meadows and marshes waders breed in and Finland's national bird, the Whooper Swan. Our next two abundance. These include Temminck's Stint, Whimbrel, days will be spent exploring this area. Spotted Redshank, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper and the delightful Red-necked Phalarope. The rare Terek Sandpiper Located on the north-east corner of the Gulf of Bothnia, this is chooses the lake shores of Liminganlahti as its only Western an area of outstanding natural beauty. Being just 200km European breeding ground. Ruff may be seen at a lek where south of the Arctic Circle, the area spent much of the last ten males in their elaborate summer dress dance and squabble thousand years buried under thick ice. The weight of this ice for the attentions of the duller Reeve. forced the bedrock down into the earth's crust. Since the end of the last ice age the land has been 'springing' back, at a rate Small birds breeding around the marshes include Wryneck of about 1cm per year. As a result the landscape is constantly and Grey-headed Wagtail, and we may be lucky and find a changing, with marshes being continually created in areas

30 Blyth's Reed Warbler. In the drier areas there are Greenish ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Warblers, Red-backed and Northern Grey Shrikes, Common Full-board accommodation is provided, with three nights at Rosefinch and Ortolan. Woodlands in the area hold Black, the Finlandia Hotel near Oulu and four nights in the Original Three-toed and Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. Sokos Hotel in Kuusamo. All rooms have en suite bathrooms. Packed lunches will be taken most days. No visit to this area is complete without sightings of the northern owls. We can expect to see Eagle Owl, Ural Owl, PRICE INCLUDES ….. Short-eared Owl, Great Grey Owl, Pygmy Owl and All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local Tengmalm's Owl. Even the enigmatic Hawk Owl appears guides, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, here in good vole years. This task would be impossible bottled water throughout, local transport by mini-bus, reserve without the help of our Finnish guides, who diligently locate entrance fees, return flight to Oulu (via Helsinki). nests during the early spring when the birds are calling. WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED KUUSAMO Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. On day four we will drive to Kuusamo, our base for the remaining four nights. Situated on the Russian border, we will INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS birdwatch around Kuusamo as well as visit the Oulanka Return flight from London Heathrow to Oulu (via Helsinki) National Park and the forests at Valtavaara. We shall using the scheduled services of Finnair. Outbound flight birdwatch at marshes and water meadows in search of departs early afternoon, return flight arrives back early species such as Broad-billed Sandpiper, Spotted Redshank evening. Domestic flights from Manchester and other UK and Bluethroat. airports are available on this tour. See booking form for details. There will be an optional ‘grouse drive’ one evening for a couple of hours after dinner. This may produce sightings of th th Willow Grouse, lekking Black Grouse, Hazel Grouse, plus 7 nights: 5 to 12 June 2016 cranes and perhaps an Elk. Principal leader: Paul J. Willoughby A day will be spent in the nearby Oulanka National Park where highlights may include Brambling, Parrot Crossbill, Local guide: provided by Finnature Capercaillie, Black Woodpecker and the delightful Waxwing. Two particularly special birds, the Siberian Tit and Siberian Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader Jay, also occur in the area. During the afternoon we will drive and a local guide a little further north to cross the Arctic Circle, birdwatching in Cost with discount Southern Lapland. (if you book before £2190 per person sharing 20th February 2016): (£220 single supplement) Valtavaara National Reserve is found just to the north of Kuusamo. This impressive taiga forest holds such exciting Full Cost: £2290 per person sharing eastern specialities as Pine Grosbeak, Arctic Warbler, Three- toed Woodpecker, Rustic Bunting, Little Bunting and Two- Deposit: £300 per person barred Crossbill. Inquisitive parties of Siberian Jays become more and more bold, sometimes taking crumbs from the hand! However, the highlight here is the rare Red-flanked Bluetail. With the help of our Finnature guides we have had good views on each of our trips.

On day eight there will be a little time for some birding near the town before we head back to Oulu, arriving in good time before our flight home.

CLIMATE AND PACE Finland’s climate is similar to that of Scotland at this time of year. It may be warm and settled, but rain is also a possibility. The best way to sum it up is changeable, so we will be flexible with our plans to make the most of what is available. Breakfast will normally be taken at 7am. Beware of tour groups which take you birding through the night in search of 'night singers'. Our experience has shown that this is largely unnecessary. There are 24 hours of daylight at this time of year and we are careful not to overstretch ourselves because of this. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks will be undertaken regularly. Most of the country is flat, but there will be some uphill walking at Valtavaara in search of Red-flanked Bluetail, done at a sensible pace.

31 ESTONIA late spring in the northern forests and orchid meadows

Estonia has become a firm favourite in the Bird Holidays calendar. Having Great Snipe completed an incredible 18 successful tours to this small and beautiful country we are still enthralled by the surprises it has to offer.

More than half the country is still covered in forest and woodlands and much of the rest is made up of extensive wetlands and slow flowing rivers. Where the forests and the marshes end there are numerous small farmsteads. Here the photogenic buildings of all shapes and hues blend into the backdrop of overgrown gardens and wildflower meadows.

The timing of our visit is important. All the summer visitors will have arrived and the forest meadows will be full of orchids and other wildflowers. Our daily excursions are designed to take advantage of this abundance of nature. The air is crisp and clear, full of the scents of the pine, spruce and birch trees which dominate the Siberian-like forests. The Baltic summer may be fleeting but experiences an explosion of life. Long evenings are filled with colourful sunsets, with the calls of Corncrakes standing out amongst vibrant birdsong.

Amongst the forest and bogs we should expect to find some great birds including Ural Owl, Capercaillie, Hazelhen, Black Stork and Lesser Spotted Eagle. Woodpeckers are good indicators of forest health and we should encounter all the resident species. The late spring migrants will have arrived, such as Greenish, Barred, River, Marsh and Blyth’s Reed Warblers. Estonia's wetlands are situated on the Baltic flyway and are used as a brief stopover for migrants en route to Siberia. All in all this tour will be a wildlife spectacular, a celebration of north-eastern Europe in spring.

ITINERARY breeding species. Marsh Sandpipers also breed here now, and are beautiful in their summer plumage. At times the TARTU flocks of feeding Black Terns are joined by their graceful On arrival in Tallinn, the country’s capital, we will head south cousins the White-winged Black Tern. east towards Tartu. A country hotel will be our base for the first three nights of the tour. In the plain of the Emajogi River Breeding White-backed Woodpeckers and Penduline Tits are we will check the marshes for Great White Egrets, Common found in the riparian woodland. The latter will be feeding Cranes, Garganey and Red-necked Grebes which all breed young in their intricate nests suspended from riverside trees. here. The old polders of Soviet times have been reclaimed by Honey Buzzards display over the forest clearings. Sightings nature and provide home to a host of wetland birds. Black of Osprey and Lesser Spotted Eagle can also be expected. Terns and Little Gulls nest on rafts of floating vegetation. The Black Stork is a rare breeding bird but one or two pairs Bitterns boom from the extensive reedbeds, whilst the wet occur in the surrounding forest. Black Woodpeckers will be meadows resound to the rasping calls of Corncrakes. At dusk active feeding their hungry young. The verdant woodlands they are joined by Spotted Crakes and reeling Savi’s echo to the trilling of Wood Warblers and the distinctive songs Warblers. Over the last 15 years we have seen Citrine of both Pied and Red-breasted Flycatchers. Wagtail increase from being a rarity to become a regular

32 Along the back roads amongst the colourful hamlets singing On day eight we will head back to Tallinn for our flight home. Blyth’s Reed Warblers favour the overgrown gardens. Marsh Warblers prefer the weedy field edges whilst River Warblers CLIMATE AND PACE can be found alongside the meandering streams. A tranquil Estonia in June can be a mix of warm sunny days and cooler picnic spot beside an old mill allows us to reflect on a bygone nights, but occasionally it may be rainy. Breakfast will be age. taken at about 7.30 am. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length In the evening we will look for lekking Great Snipe which walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly. There are no gather in the water meadows where their jousting reaches a uphill walks. climax as dusk falls. This site has also proved to be a good place to observe nocturnal mammals such as Badger, Beaver ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD and Wild Boar. Nightjars and Woodcock are common in the Full-board accommodation is provided with three nights near forest near our hotel and there is always the possibility of Tartu and four nights near Haapsalu, both at lovely rural seeing Ural Owl. hotels. Both are of good standard and all rooms have en suite facilities. Lunches will be taken at local restaurants along with MATSALU BAY the occasional picnic.. On day four we will head west towards Estonia’s premier wetland reserve, Matsalu Bay. It was made into a national PRICE INCLUDES ….. park just over a decade ago. Our base for the next four nights All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board will be another quiet and comfortable country hotel. accommodation (starting with lunch on 6th, ending with lunch on 13th), local transport by mini-bus, ferry to Saaremaa Matsalu is one of the most important wetlands in Northern Island, reserve entrance fees, boat trip, international flights. Europe. At its heart is an open coastal bay where the forest gives way to water-meadows and vast reedbeds. In spring WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED the shallow lagoon becomes a vital staging ground for Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. migrant waterfowl. This is a natural paradise for birdwatchers and boasts some 175 breeding species of bird. White-tailed Eagles hunt nervous wildfowl whilst Marsh Harriers quarter INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from London Gatwick to Tallinn using the the reeds. Displaying Redshanks and Black-tailed Godwits scheduled services of Easyjet. Outbound flight departs early join the lekking Ruff in the wet meadows. morning, with return landing late afternoon. Flights from Manchester can be arranged for a supplement, but may In the coastal bays colourful Arctic bound waders feed require an overnight in Tallinn. voraciously in the shallows. Jet black Spotted Redshanks occur alongside two toned Grey Plovers. We shall seek out Broad-billed Sandpipers amongst the tundra bound Ringed 7 nights: 6th to 13th June 2016 Plovers. Temminck’s Stints shuffle around the meadow pools whilst displaying Dunlins buzz overhead. One evening we will Principal leader: John McLoughlin take a boat trip along a slow moving river to look for Beavers and reedbed birds. Great Reed Warblers are abundant as are Local guide: Margus Pensa Savi’s Warblers and we may also spot the occasional Bluethroat. Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader and a local guide In the surrounding woodlands and gardens colonies of noisy Cost with discount Fieldfares raise their young. Wrynecks too are common, (if you book before £1590 per person sharing along with Thrush Nightingales, Icterine Warblers and 21st February 2016): (£210 single supplement) Hawfinches. Barred Warblers and Red-backed Shrikes nest amongst the juniper scrub. The weedy meadows are full of Full Cost: £1690 per person sharing Whinchats, whilst Common Rosefinches whistle their greetings from roadside copses. Deposit: £300 per person

Attractive woodland flowers and orchids will be in full bloom whilst many butterflies and dragonflies will have taken wing. We shall visit the ancient forest meadows around the bay to look for them. Some 36 species of orchids can be found in Estonia. The highlight will be a day trip to Saaremaa Island to witness the astonishing spectacle of fields full of glorious Lady Slipper Orchids.

A short drive from Matsalu Bay will take us to the forested area of Leidissoo. Many of the best birds here are either uncommon or rather shy, so a certain amount of luck will be required to see them. Black Grouse and Capercaillie should be more reliable as they leave their traditional lek sites in the morning. Three-toed Woodpeckers and Nutcrackers nest in the old growth forest where Hazel Grouse too, can be found. Crested Tits and Common Crossbills call from the pines whilst the forest echoes to the sound of feverish Cuckoos.

Estonia is one of the few European countries to retain healthy populations of European Beaver, Brown Bear and European Elk. All are naturally shy and difficult to see, but we have seen all three on previous tours.

33 MADEIRA endemic landbirds and enigmatic seabirds

The Atlantic’s Floating Garden, as Madeira is affectionately known, is blessed with a wonderful spring-like climate, almost year-round. The floral display is at its best in May and June, which is a bonus for us as this is a great time to see the seabirds for which the islands are famed.

The Desertas Islands lie tantalizingly close to the south-east coast of Madeira. The highlight of our trip will be a visit to Deserta Grande, with the rare privilege of staying overnight. From the boat we will scan for Pilot Whales, Bryde’s Whales, dolphins, Madeira Firecrest Desertas Petrels and Cory’s Shearwaters. As night falls the place comes alive with the calls of Cory’s Shearwaters, Bulwer’s Petrels and Madeiran Storm-petrels. Every birdwatcher should try to visit a petrel colony at night at least once, as it is an unforgettable experience. On this tour we visit two! On one night we will be taken by licensed guides to a Zino’s Petrel colony, high on Pico do Arieiro, one of Madeira’s highest peaks. As night falls we can listen to the eerie calls and perhaps glimpse one of the world’s rarest seabirds, which nest here and nowhere else on earth.

The system of levada paths allows the visitor to explore magnificent and rugged mountains with relative ease. In a landscape of jagged peaks and waterfalls we can make easy walks along paths that follow the contours of the hills in search of the birds native to the laurel forest.

We will be based at the lovely Monte Mar Palace Hotel at Punta Delgada, on the north coast of the island, leaving here for one night when we visit Deserta Grande. The low bird diversity on Madeira means that we have planned an easy itinerary. Nevertheless, there will be plenty to occupy us for the week, and during any spare time we can relax or watch for seabirds, whales and dolphins from the hotel grounds.

ITINERARY bold white supercilium and has totally different calls. The very distinctive Madeiran Chaffinch is also related to its mainland THE LAUREL FOREST counterpart, and may one day be split as a species in its own Sub-tropical laurel forest covers extensive parts of the north- right. Other species represented by local races include facing slopes, sustained by moisture from the north-east Blackcap, Sparrowhawk, Grey Wagtail and Blackbird. trade winds. Dramatic peaks of extinct volcanoes offer a spectacular backdrop. Amazing vistas remind us of the high Walking the levadas, lined with Madeira Geraniums, we will Andes, and whilst the species diversity is low, almost every have lots of time to enjoy the birds, flowers and insects. The bird we see is either an endemic species or race. only native reptile, the Madeiran Wall Lizard, scurries across rocky outcrops while Madeiran Speckled Wood and Indian Trocaz Pigeons occur only on this one island, in this one Red Admirals flit over sunny glades. The endemic Madeira habitat, making their very existence precarious. Their habitat Cleopatra is attracted to the flowers of the Pride of Madeira, a has been reduced by man’s activities in the past. Happily, spectacular relative of Viper’s Bugloss. We have allowed two today all the remaining laurel forest is protected in the huge mornings for levada walks, and these will be easy walking. Parque Natural. The sprightly Madeira Firecrest is quite The forest at Ribeiro Frio is a delight to visit, whilst the common in the laurel forest as well as inhabiting mountain spectacular Risco waterfall should be on everyone’s itinerary. scrub. Related to the mainland Firecrest, it lacks that species’

34 PONTA DE SAO LOURENCO Peaks of long extinct volcanoes jut up above a sea of cloud. The dramatic Sao Lourenco Peninsula juts out from the The amazing sunsets alone are worth coming for. As eastern end of Madeira and offers a completely different darkness falls we will make our way to the colony, with the experience. The basalt rocks have been eroded down to assistance of a licensed guide. We can listen to the wild calls become colourful sea-cliffs and bizarrely shaped rock towers. of these rare birds as they return to their colony, and perhaps Plain Swifts rip through the air. Berthelot’s Pipits sing from glimpse a bird overhead in the moonlight. rocky pinnacles. Rock Sparrows are commoner here than elsewhere on the island and Canaries flit from bush to bush. CLIMATE AND PACE Madeira enjoys a spring-like climate, year round. Not too hot, THE DESERTAS ISLANDS not too cold, but just right. Warm days are the norm, with a On day four we will visit the Desertas Islands, with the rare low chance of rain. The low species diversity means that this privilege of staying overnight on Deserta Grande. Our boat is will be a relaxed trip. Walking on the levadas is mostly flat the lovely Ventura do Mar and the sailing time from Funchal and very easy. The levadas we have chosen are not those is three to four hours. The waters between Madeira and the infamous ones with steep drops and no hand rails. On the Desertas are very deep, and upwellings bring nutrients to the Sao Lourenco Peninsula the path goes up and down hills, surface, making it an excellent feeding ground for seabirds. which we will do at a sensible pace. To visit the Zino’s Petrel colony we have a 30 minute walk on a well made path with As we leave Funchal Harbour we should be able to pick out a hand rails, returning in the dark with torches. The night on few Roseate Terns. We will soon come across big numbers of Deserta Grande is an amazing experience, but you will need Cory’s Shearwaters, forming large rafts on the sea. Further a certain spirit of adventure. You can sleep on land under the out we will see our first Bulwer’s Petrels. Much larger than the stars or under a shelter, or on the boat. It should be very mild, storm-petrels, these masters of the air fly effortlessly over the and we will provide blankets and a soft mat. waves. Desertas Petrel, which breeds only on Bugio in the Desertas, should be seen in small numbers. We will keep a ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD sharp eye out for whales and dolphins, the most frequent Full-board accommodation is provided at the Monte Mar species being Bryde’s Whale, Short-finned Pilot Whale, and Palace Hotel, Punta Delgada. There will be one night on Spotted and Bottle-nosed Dolphins. Deserta Grande. We will keep our rooms at the Monte Mar throughout, so there’s no need to pack and repack, taking just We will land in the afternoon and explore the area around the a day/night bag on the boat. The hotel is of a high standard wardens’ hut. Perhaps they will show us a Bulwer’s Petrel with en suite bathrooms. nesting amongst the boulders, whilst our onboard naturalist will explain about the efforts to save the Mediterranean Monk PRICE INCLUDES ….. Seal. In the evening we will have a barbecue, then wait for All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board night time, when the air comes alive with the sounds of accommodation (starting with dinner on 13th, ending with nesting seabirds. Cory’s are the most vociferous. Bulwer’s fly breakfast on 20th), soft drinks at meal times, local transport by around in the dark, crashing clumsily into boulders before mini-bus, two boat trips, reserve entrance fees and guides shuffling into their nests. Madeiran Storm-petrels have a fees, and return flight to Funchal. distinctive call, like the sound of rubber shoes on a polished floor. They are common and can be seen fluttering over our WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED heads. Against a backdrop of a billion stars, this is a Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. performance that will live in the memory for a long time. Eventually we must settle down for the night, and you can choose to wrap yourself in a blanket under the stars or return INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from Leeds/Bradford and Manchester to to the boat. Next morning we will head back to Funchal. We Funchal using the scheduled services of Jet2. Outbound flight will arrive back in time for lunch, and you can spend the rest departs mid-morning, return flight arrives back mid to late of the day relaxing or catching up on lost sleep! evening. London flights are also available, please phone for details. MORE SEABIRDING In addition to the Desertas trip, we will do another boat trip later in the week, providing further opportunities for birds, 7 nights : 13th to 20th June 2016 whales and dolphins, plus Loggerhead Turtles. Principal leader: Andrew Woodall Our hotel is also perfectly situated for watching the sea. On the occasional free afternoon you can look out for pods of Maximum group size: 7 clients with one leader or 13 dolphins, the blow of a Bryde’s Whale, or a seabird feeding clients with two leaders frenzy which may contain a rare Barolo’s (Little) Shearwater. Cost with discount (if you book before £1860 per person sharing One final seabird deserves a special mention. In 1903, 29th February 2016): (£220 single supplement) naturalist Ernesto Schmitz obtained a specimen of a petrel in Madeira. It was almost forgotten about for the next 80 years. Full Cost: £1960 per person sharing Local man Alec Zino took it upon himself to refind, then protect, the nesting grounds. The Zino’s Petrel or Freira de Deposit: £300 per person Madeira, is now fully protected and his son, Frank Zino, runs the Freira Conservation Project.

35 BALI, JAVA, FLORES AND KOMODO birding across the Wallace line

Working independently, Charles Darwin and Alfred Russel Wallace developed the theory of evolution. While Darwin’s theories began on Galapagos, Wallace’s activities centred on Indonesia, where he collected specimens for British museums. Wallace noticed that the distribution of creatures from Asia extended south as far as Java and Bali. Although many had evolved far enough to become different species, they remained firmly allied to Asian families.

Leaving Bali, Wallace crossed the Lombok Strait, a distance of just 35 miles, and noticed a dramatic change. The creatures east of this line, such as on Komodo Dragon and Barred Doves Flores and Komodo, had Australian ancestry. Wallace found cockatoos and friarbirds, whilst the bulbuls and woodpeckers had been left behind in Java and Bali.

Like Galapagos, each of the islands we will visit has its own unique fauna and flora. Some, like the Javan White- eye or Javan Plover, differ very little from their close relatives. Others, like the Javan Kingfisher and Bali Starling, are striking in their differences. The Dragons of Komodo recall a time past. A time when giant lizards roamed the earth. These prehistoric leviathans are not out of place among the dramatic volcanic islets here.

Today, Wallace is a hero celebrated by naturalists who named many species after him. The endemic Wallace’s Hanging-parrot, Wallace’s Scops Owl and Wallacean Drongo are amongst the many species we hope to see. The first half of our tour is spent looking for endemic birds on Bali and Java. The most iconic of these is the Bali Starling, of which only a handful of wild birds survive. Then a short flight across the Wallace Line takes us to Flores, with its own charm, isolation and endemics. From here, we will visit Komodo and Rinca: both UNESCO sites where ‘there be dragons!’

ITINERARY abundance, many of which are endemic. Flame-fronted Barbet, Blood-breasted Flowerpecker, Javan Owlet, BALI AND JAVA Indonesian Honeyeater, Yellow-throated Hanging Parrot and Our flight from the UK takes us to Bali, a beautiful Pacific Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon all occur here. island topped with volcanic peaks and scattered with temples. As you would expect of this destination, the infrastructure is In the afternoon, we will descend from the Central Highlands very good, with quality hotels and a network of good roads to reach the coast at Bali Barat National Park, our base for that allow us to explore the island. the next two nights. Here we have a full day birding in search of Javan Kingfisher, Javan Plover, Javan Banded Pitta and From the airport we will drive to Bedugul, passing coastal Green Junglefowl. Two members of the starling family here lagoons which hold Small Blue Kingfisher and Javan Pond are critically endangered and this is the best place in the Heron, before arriving at Bali Handara Kosaido for our first world to see them. On Bali, the Black-winged Starling is found night. Our hotel is nestled inside the crater of an extinct only in this park. Despite being much rarer, the Bali Starling is volcano. The following morning we will find mountain birds in

36 easier to locate due to its colour. This snow-white bird has a We will visit Danau Rana Mese where we will look for the blue face and long crest, but its beauty led to its demise. In splendid White-rumped Kingfisher. We should also find the 2006 only six wild birds were left! A concerted effort has Great-billed Parrot, Brown Quail and endemic Golden- increased the number to about 50, but it remains one of the rumped and Black-breasted Flowerpeckers. rarest birds in the world. Finally, we will return to Labuhan Bajo, for one night, in On day five we will take a short ferry ride to East Java where advance of our flight back to the UK. we will spend two nights at Ketapang. Here we will be birding at Baluran National Park and Ijen Nature Reserve, two of the CLIMATE AND PACE best places to find Javanese endemics. The forest holds It is likely to be hot and sunny throughout this itinerary, but Pink-headed Fruit Dove, Sunda Minivet, Black-banded with a small chance of rain. At higher elevations it should be a Barbet, White-crowned Forktail, Sunda Bush-warbler, Sunda little cooler. Breakfast will be taken at about 6.30am most Warbler, Ruddy Cuckoo-dove, Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon, mornings to take advantage of the cooler morning period. and Grey-cheeked Tit-babbler; all watched over by the Javan Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in Hawk-eagle. the field and reasonable length walks will be undertaken regularly. There are some uneven paths and some uphill FLORES, KOMODO AND RINCA walks, all taken at a gentle pace. After a second morning of birding in Java, we cross back to Bali and head to Denpasar, ready for our flight to Flores. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Arriving at Labuhan Bajo in Flores, part of the Lesser Sunda Full-board accommodation is provided, with one night at the archipelago, we will check into our hotel for three nights and Bali Handara Kosaido Resort, Bali, two nights at the Adi Assri do a little local birding that afternoon. This region is well Resort, Bali, two nights at the Ketapang Indah, Java, one known for its volcanic activity; Krakatoa lies along the same night at the Harris Tuban Hotel, Bali, three nights at the Jaya chain of islands, a thousand miles to the west. The setting is Karta Hotel, Labuhan Bajo, Flores, two nights at the Ruteng wonderful, with palm-fringed beaches and golden sunsets Seminary Mission, Flores, one night back at the Jaya Karta over triangular peaks. However, this beauty hides terror, for Hotel, Labuhan Bajo, Flores. All hotels are of a good the following day, we go in search of dragons. standard. The Mission at Ruteng has rooms that are rather plain, but nevertheless clean and comfortable. All rooms are Komodo and Rinca are two small volcanic islands where the en suite. Lunch will normally be at restaurants, but Komodo Dragon has been isolated for millennia. Taking a occasionally we will take a packed lunch. boat trip to these islands is one of the world’s greatest wildlife experiences. As we meander through coastal waters that PRICE INCLUDES ….. resemble a Lost World film set, we can watch Black-naped All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local Terns and piratic Lesser Frigatebirds. Once ashore we can guide, full-board accommodation (starting with breakfast on expect close views (not too close though) of the Komodo 18th, ending with lunch on 29th), soft drinks at meal times, Dragon. Wardens ensure our safety, since the dragons sleep bottled water throughout, transport by minibus, boat trip, with one eye open. reserve entrance fees, ferry, domestic flights and international flights. Barred Doves are wary of Variable Goshawks, while White- bellied Sea-eagles soar above the cone-shaped peaks. Being WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED remote, these islands still hold good populations of birds and Travel insurance. Cost of obtaining a visa (approx. £20 and animals that have suffered severe declines elsewhere. With obtainable on arrival in Bali). Personal items, alcoholic drinks, ten percent of the world population of the critically laundry. endangered Yellow-crested Cockatoo on these two tiny islands, we must be alert to their calls. Orange-footed Scrubfowl forage at the feet of grazing Timor Deer. Slight INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Flights from London Heathrow to Bali (via Singapore), using regional differences to some of the common birds make the the scheduled services of Singapore Airlines. Outbound flight possibility of seeing an undescribed species here very real. departs mid-evening, return arrives back mid-afternoon. There is a nine hour stop over in Singapore on the return The next day we will birdwatch at the west end of Flores, journey, where it is possible to get a hotel room in the transit which has a very different feel to Bali. Flores is less area (without clearing customs). developed and certainly not as touristy. We will birdwatch It is also possible to fly along the Potowangka Road where we will look for endemics from Manchester and other UK airports. Please phone for including Flores Minivet, Flores Leaf-warbler and Flores details. Green Pigeon, a species often difficult to see. 14 nights including At this time of year, migration has just begun and raptors two overnight flights: 16th to 30th July 2016 follow the island chain towards Australia. This is a major route for Chinese Sparrowhawk, Oriental Honey-buzzard and Black Principal leader: Phil Palmer Baza. We should also be mindful that the recently described Flores Hawk-eagle could pass overhead at any time. Local guide: Hery Kusumanegara and other wardens/rangers We will then head to Ruteng in the Flores interior, for two nights, birding along the way. The volcanic landscape is Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader painted with terraces of rice paddies and woodland patches. and local guides Along the road, we have a chance of finding Wallace’s Cost with discount Hanging Parrots feeding in fruiting trees. The Wallacean (if you book before £4680 per person sharing nd Drongo and Wallace’s Scops Owl, birds that commemorate 2 April 2016): (£250 single supplement) the great man’s name, also live here. Full Cost: £4830 per person sharing Birding in the forest at Puarlodo should produce the stunning Flores Monarch and perhaps, with patience, an Elegant Pitta. Deposit: £1000 per person

37 MONGOLIA sandgrouse in the Green Gobi and Siberian migrants in the taiga

Mongolia is a superb birding destination, and one which conjures up visions of the past: Mongol hordes rampaging across the plains, led by the great warrior leader Genghis Khan. Even today, once away from the capital, you will get the feeling that you have stepped back in time. Mongolia, the ‘land of blue sky’, is where the great Siberian forest meets rolling steppe and the vast Gobi desert. It is one of the last unspoilt travel destinations in Asia. Low population densities mean that we will encounter extensive uninhabited tracts of White-naped Crane grassland, desert and mountain. Harsh winters, wind and sun have sculpted an incomparable landscape of open sweeping plains and jagged mountain ranges.

Mongolia is a huge landlocked country covering an area twelve times the size of Great Britain. It is home to over 440 species of birds which include globally scarce species such as Swan Goose, Pallas’s Sandgrouse, White- naped Crane, Altai Snowcock, Oriental Plover, Henderson’s Ground Jay and Saxaul Sparrow. Raptors are plentiful in this vast country, with good populations of Lammergeier, Black Vulture, Upland Buzzard and Saker Falcon.

As well as staying in the modern day capital of Ulan Bator, this holiday will explore two key areas of the country. To the north-east of the capital lie the Khentii Mountains, the highest mountain range in eastern Mongolia. Here, at the southern end of the vast Siberian taiga, are mountains covered in beautiful larch and birch forest. These are the breeding grounds of Pallas’s Warblers and Red-flanked Bluetails as well as home to Hazelhen and Black Grouse. In the south of the country we will visit the Gobi Desert where an amazingly green desert steppe stretches as far as the eye can see. The journey takes us to ancient Saxaul forests, to the mountains of the Gobi Altai and to high desert sand dunes which acquire a strange purple hue as the sun sets.

ITINERARY hold migrant Olive-backed Pipits and Arctic and Yellow- browed Warblers. ULAN BATOR AND THE TUUL VALLEY Our base for the first two nights is the capital, Ulan Bator, a As we approach the fringes of the Terelj National Park, bustling mix of the old and the new. The focus of the city is Steppe Eagles hunt marmots and susliks which peer at the Sukhbataar Square, surrounded by palaces, parliament visitor from their roadside mounds. Mixed flocks of Oriental buildings and modern office blocks. A small park at the Rooks and Daurian Jackdaws feed in the meadows. southern end is a good site for migrants such as Brown Shrike, Taiga Flycatcher and Dusky and Arctic Warblers. THE SOUTHERN GOBI Red-billed Choughs scavenge on the steps of the Stock On day four we will take a morning flight to the southern city Exchange, whilst overhead Black-eared Kites circle, of Dalanzangad, gateway to the Green Gobi. Our local guide accompanied by the occasional Black Vulture. will take us across seemingly trackless steppes to witness some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet. To the east the valley of the River Tuul opens out. It is in this Remnant Saxual forest at the famous dinosaur cliffs of valley we shall first encounter rural Mongolia and some of its Bayanzag are home to Daurian Shrike, Steppe Grey Shrike rich and varied birdlife. Azure Tits join roving tit flocks in the and Asian Desert Warbler. With luck we may encounter the willows lining river banks. Further up stream, stretches of striking Saxual Sparrow or the even rarer Henderson’s mature riparian woodland support both Black and Three-toed Ground Jay. Woodpeckers. Daurian Redstarts flit between the trees which

38 Accommodation is in traditional Ger camps, the felt-lined Lanceolated Warbler, Red-flanked Bluetail, Pine Bunting and homes used by nomadic Mongols. These small camps are Long-tailed Rosefinch. Pallas’s Warblers join mixed species designed to have low environmental impact and are powered flocks, along with Azure, Marsh and Willow Tits in the river- by wind generators and solar panels. We cross low mountain side trees. Steppe Eagles hunt the picas and susliks whose ridges to reach the spectacular dunes at Hongoriyn Els, a burrows dot the meadows around the camp. It is a truly place of amazing beauty as the sun sets. At the time of our magical place. visit the steppes are covered in flocks of Pallas’s Sandgrouse; over 5000 were encountered on one of our Finally, on day 15 we will drive back to Ulan Bator, spending previous visits. Even more abundant are flocks of Mongolian one night there before our flight back home. Shore Larks and Asian Short-toed Larks, with Mongolian Trumpeter Finches in flocks too many to count! Elusive Please note: The domestic flights on this itinerary fill up Goitered Gazelles may be encountered on the plains and last a long time in advance and so we urge you to book early time we were also lucky enough to see two wolves. The rare to avoid disappointment. Oriental Plover breeds on the steppe and, with luck, we may encounter a post breeding gathering of these elegant waders. CLIMATE AND PACE Autumn days in Mongolia are superb, with settled warm The sandgrouse come to drink at a small river which runs at sunny weather being the norm. In the mountains it can be the base of the dunes and the freshwater acts as a magnet to cold at night. There is a slight chance of rain both in the migrating birds. Waders include Temminck’s and Red-necked mountains and lowlands. Breakfast will be taken at about Stints, and Swinhoe’s and Pintail Snipes. Flocks of Baikal and 7am most mornings, perhaps slightly later if the previous day Swinhoe’s Wagtails and Blyth’s and Richard’s Pipits attract has been tiring. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days passing Pied and Pallid Harriers. The adjacent steppe holds will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks on varying numbers of Isabelline, Pied and Desert Wheatears. In the flat will be undertaken regularly. the marshes, Siberian migrants include Olive-backed Pipit, Bluethroat, Pallas’s Reed Bunting and Lanceolated, Pallas’s ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Grasshopper and Thick-billed Warblers. Full-board accommodation is provided with two nights in Ulan Bator, five nights in the Gobi Desert (three camps), one night Into the high mountains on days seven and eight, we will in Ulan Bator, five nights in the Khentii Mountains (two search for specialities in Yolyn Am, the Valley of the camps) and the final night back in Ulan Bator. In Ulan Bator, Lammergeier. In the gorge there are Wallcreepers, the rooms are of a very good standard and have en suite endemic Koslov’s Accentor, as well as both Brown and Alpine facilities. Outside the capital we will be staying in Ger camps, Accentors. Godlewski’s Buntings may come to drink at the the traditional Mongolian way. Rooms have proper beds and stream and we may see both Great and Chinese Beautiful a wash basin. There are separate toilets and wash rooms and Rosefinches. Up on the high slopes Siberian Ibex graze, wary meals will be served in a restaurant or a converted Ger. of their main predator, the Snow Leopard. A sighting of one of these majestic cats is highly unlikely but, by following the PRICE INCLUDES ….. ibex, we may detect a party of Altai Snowcock. These strange All birdwatching excursions with expert leaders, full-board birds inhabit the highest ridges of the mountains. We can th accommodation, (starting with lunch on the 25 and ending scope the crags from below whilst enjoying eye-level views of th with breakfast on the 8 ), soft drinks at meal times, bottled Lammergeiers and Himalayan Griffon Vultures. The peaks water throughout, local transport by mini-bus, reserve here are full of raptors including Golden Eagle and numerous entrance fees, international and internal flights. Saker Falcons.

KHAN KHENTII WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Travel insurance. Entry visa (£40, but currently waived). Items A morning flight back to Ulan Bator on day nine gives us time of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry. to relax and sightsee in the city. On day ten a drive to the east of the capital takes us to Gun Galut National Park for the next two nights. This is home to the endangered White-naped INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Crane. These magnificent birds should still be present at the Return flight from London Heathrow to Ulan Bator (via time of our visit, along with flocks of migrating Demoiselle Istanbul) using the scheduled services of Turkish Airlines. Cranes. A splendid pair of Siberian Cranes was the highlight Outbound flight departs late morning, return flight arrives late of one visit, while Little Whimbrel and Relict Gull have also evening. Domestic flights from Manchester and other UK featured. Several large lakes hold impressive numbers of airports are available on this tour. See booking form for wildfowl and waders. Amongst them we should find Swan details. Geese, Bar-headed Geese and Eastern Taiga Bean Geese. Large flocks of Pacific Golden Plovers and Spotted 15 nights including Redshanks occur as well as smaller waders such as Red- one overnight flight: 24th Aug. to 8th Sept. 2016 necked Phalarope. Along the lake margins migrants include Buff-bellied and Red-throated Pipits, Little and Lapland Principal leader: John McLoughlin Buntings and perhaps a Siberian Rubythroat or two. Maximum group size: 10 clients with a leader Moving on into the mountains, our next base for three nights and an interpreter/guide is at an idyllic summer Ger camp situated in a meadow Cost with discount between a white water river and larch covered mountains. (if you book before £3890 per person sharing th Here, at the southern edge of the Siberian taiga, bird 11 May 2016): (£290 single supplement) communities reflect this extensive forest habitat. Deep in the forest we may encounter the shy Hazelhen. The Black-billed Full Cost: £4040 per person sharing Capercaillie occurs here but is even harder to find. Lingering breeding birds are joined by migrants from further north. Deposit: £1000 per person These include Great Grey Shrike, Red-throated Thrush,

39 NORTHERN SPAIN’S MAMMALS wolves, bears and wildcats in the Cantabrian Mountains

Spain is home to a wealth of rare birds and mammals. Over the years we have developed more itineraries to this rich country than anywhere else. Now we have a new tour, on which we can show you three special mammals, Iberian Wolf, Cantabrian Brown Bear and Wildcat. What may surprise the visitor is that these mammals are very reliably found, with the help of our knowledgeable local guides. The wild and unspoilt habitat that supports these endangered mammals is also home to masses of birds, so this itinerary should appeal to all. Wallcreeper, Alpine Chough, Alpine Accentor, Snow Finch, Golden Eagle and Griffon Vulture are among the avian highlights. Iberian Wolf After arriving at Bilbao airport we will drive to our first hotel, at Riano, in the Picos de Europa. A healthy population of Iberian Wolves live in the mountains here, while Wildcats can be found in the daytime in fields near our hotel. On day four we will drive west to the pretty village of Pola de Somiedo, in the heart of the Parque Natural de Somiedo. This is the stronghold of the Cantabrian Brown Bear, an endangered subspecies of the widespread Brown Bear. Usually hidden in the vast beech woods, they venture onto the open hillsides to gorge on autumn berries at this time of year. On the afternoon of day seven we will drive back to Bilbao, staying in a hotel next to the airport in advance of our flight home.

ITINERARY creatures is very high. Sooner or later the adults should return and we will watch them engaged in their social PICOS DE EUROPA activities such as feeding, playing, territory marking and Arriving around lunchtime, we will soon be on the road bonding. heading west from Bilbao. A new motorway offers spectacular views along the coast whilst allowing us to cover the miles While waiting and watching for wolves, there are lots of other quite easily. Once we head inland the scenery quickly things to see. Red Deer are numerous on the mid-elevation changes and the stupendous limestone peaks of the Picos de slopes whilst Cantabrian Chamois, a type of alpine antelope, Europa appear on the horizon. We will make our way to is found higher up. Griffon Vultures soar overhead, whilst Riano, at the southern end of the national park, our base for both Golden Eagle and Peregrine are occasionally seen. This the first three nights. is passage time too, so groups of Honey Buzzards, plus occasional Marsh and Montagu’s Harriers, Short-toed and The next morning we will make our first excursion to look for Booted Eagles, and Black Kites should be seen passing wolves. There are some 18 to 20 packs of Iberian Wolf in the overhead. A few Egyptian Vultures should also remain after area. Every spring our local guides try to locate four or five of the breeding season. the most accessible packs, getting to know their daily routines. They make a special effort to find the places where We can venture higher up into the mountains to look for both the adults leave their young when on hunting trips, and it is to Alpine Accentor and Snow Finch. Wallcreeper, too, is reliably one of these spots that we will head. So the hard work will found in these high mountains. Citril Finch is rather scarce, have already been done. All we have to do is get up quite but following a productive breeding season we have a chance early, go by 4x4 into the mountains, walk the last bit to get of finding them. At lower altitudes we can walk through beech into position, then wait. The whole operation is so well woods that hold Black Woodpecker, Firecrest and Crested organised that our chances of seeing these secretive

40 Tit. Middle Spotted Woodpecker is possible too in the cherry time. When looking for birds, bears and wildcats, the pace will orchards. be relaxed.

A special mention should also be made of another star ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD mammal here. In late summer local farmers, practicing a very Full-board accommodation is provided, with three nights at traditional method of farming, cut hay from the fields in the the Hotel Presa, Riano, three nights at the Hotel Casa Mino, lush valley bottoms. This exposes the burrows of countless Somiedo and one night at the Holiday Inn at Bilbao Airport. numbers of small rodents. The normally shy Wildcats come All hotels are of a good standard and all rooms have an en out of the beech woods in the late afternoon and can be seen suite bathroom. Packed lunches will be taken every day. hunting in broad daylight. There is a very healthy population here, and studies have shown that they are not subject to PRICE INCLUDES ….. hybridization with domestic cats. With care and patience we All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local can expect great views of this fantastic predator. guides, full-board accommodation (starting with lunch on 28th, ending with breakfast on 4th), soft drinks at meal times, PARQUE NATURAL DE SOMIEDO bottled water throughout, local transport by mini-coach and On day four we can do some final birdwatching, or perhaps 4x4 and international flights. try our luck with another wolf pack, before heading west towards Asturias. The Parque Natural de Somiedo is located WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED in the central area of the Cantabrian Mountains and covers Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. over 40,000 hectares. As in the Picos, farming methods are very traditional, leading to it being declared a UNESCO INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS biosphere reserve in 2000. We will spend three nights in the Direct flights from Manchester to Bilbao, using the scheduled heart of the reserve in the village of Pola de Somiedo. services of Easyjet. Outbound flight departs early morning, return flight arrives back midday. It may also be possible to fly The park is most famous for its population of Cantabrian from London. Please phone for details. Brown Bears. Of approximately 200 bears that live in the mountains of northern Spain, more than 30 individuals live th th around Somiedo. Normally shy and reclusive, the chances of 7 nights: 28 Aug. to 4 Sept. 2016 seeing one is almost nil. However, for a few weeks every year the population ventures from its beech forest home onto open Principal leader: Paul J. Willoughby hillsides to feed on the fruits of blackberry and bilberry. When the Rhamnus alpina (a type of buckthorn) fruits, they lose all Local guide: Bernardo Canal (wolves) and self control and gorge themselves silly. Our local guide knows Luis Fernandez and Marcos all the best spots to find one, and during our time here we can Simon (bears) expect sightings of adult males, adolescents and females with young. Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader and local guides We will not neglect the birding here either. Crag Martin, Black Cost with discount Redstart, Red-billed Chough, Red Kite, Goshawk, Rock (if you book before £1690 per person sharing nd Bunting, Dipper and Firecrest are amongst the assorted 22 May 2016): (£150 single supplement) birdlife that can be found. If Wallcreeper eluded us in the Picos we can try again here. Migrants crossing the high Full Cost: £1790 per person sharing passes will include many northern species such as Garden and Willow Warblers, Redstarts and Pied Flycatchers. Iberian Deposit: £300 per person Chiffchaff is the most numerous breeding warbler and should still be present at this time. Butterflies will still be on the wing, including Swallowtail, Cleopatra and Queen of Spain Fritillary.

After three days we will reluctantly head for Bilbao, where we will spend the last night before our flight home. En route we can stop off at Santona Marshes on the north coast. This is an important stop-over site for migratory Spoonbills. The saltmarsh is also a temporary home of Mediterranean Gull, Avocet, Whimbrel, Grey Plover, Knot, Bar-tailed Godwit, Pintail, and Shoveler. Then finally, after a night near the airport we will head home, with memories of some of the best mammal watching in Europe.

CLIMATE AND PACE The weather in this part of Spain is quite different to the rest of the country, being cooler, with a higher chance of rain. That said, this is a lovely time of year to visit, and we can expect warm dry days. It will be cooler at high altitudes. Breakfast times will vary depending on what our plans are for the day. When looking for wolves and bears it may be necessary to have an early breakfast. On these days we will have a long rest in the middle of the day to compensate. At other times, breakfast will be around 7.30am. Basic fitness is all that is required. In order to look for wolves, there will be a certain amount of walking. The terrain depends on where the Cantabrian Brown Bear wolves chose to den, but we will take the easiest options. The walking can be done at your own pace, with no pressure of

41 MADAGASCAR lemurs, chameleons and endemic birds in the land that time forgot

Some 100 million years ago movements in the earth’s plates caused Sickle-billed Vangas a huge chunk of land to separate from mainland Africa, beginning a remarkable evolutionary experiment that continues today. Instead of evolving quickly, many of Madagascar’s species are little changed, resembling ancient families that have since disappeared from the mainland. The result is wonderful birds, mammals, insects and plants that can be found nowhere else on earth.

The twentieth century brought great devastation to the island. Fortunately, however, large pockets of forest have survived in the more remote areas, and international pressure combined with the wishes of the Malagasy themselves has turned the tide. The government declared that it intended to formally protect ten percent of the land by 2009 and the creation of large national parks has helped to achieve this. Ecotourism plays its part too, and whole communities benefit from the tourists that come to marvel at the wonderful wildlife.

Madagascar is a huge island and it is important to plan an itinerary that gives a good balance between maximising wildlife sightings and not too much travelling. Roads have been improved, hotels are now very good and the food is delicious. We will spend our first night at Antananarivo, before starting our journey south through the country. Three nights at Ranomafana will then give us a wonderful assortment of forest birds, along with endangered lemurs. At Isalo we will enjoy some of the island’s best scenery as well as seeing the endemic Benson’s Rock Thrush and endearing Ring-tailed Lemurs. Two nights at Tulear give us time to visit the Red-tailed Tropicbird nesting island of Nosy Ve, as well as to search for Red-shouldered Vanga, discovered as recently as 1997. At Ifaty we can relax by the Indian Ocean, close to the famous spiny forest of octopus trees, baobabs and bottle-trees. This area is home to some very rare endemic birds, including Long-tailed Ground-roller. Finally, we will arrive at the forest of Perinet, home of the Indri, whose wailing calls perfectly capture the essence of Madagascar.

All these wonderful birds will be complemented by other rare and exotic creatures, from huge Parson’s Chameleons to Giraffe-necked Weevils, Tenrecs to Leaf-tailed Geckos, and Mouse Lemurs to miniscule Leaf Chameleons. The culture is fascinating too, with the south being very African, whilst Tana has strong Asian influences. It should also be mentioned that one could not wish to meet a friendlier people than the Malagasy, who always have a ready smile despite many living in great poverty.

ITINERARY Ranomafana is arguably the most important site in Madagascar for both birds and lemurs. In fact, it was the RANOMAFANA NATIONAL PARK discovery of the Golden Bamboo Lemur which triggered the After our daytime flight we will arrive in the capital, creation of the park in 1991. It is also the only accessible Antananarivo (Tana for short) and go straight to our hotel, just location for the even rarer Greater Bamboo Lemur. We also ten minutes from the airport. The next day we head south on have the opportunity to see the exquisite Milne Edward’s a captivating journey along the spine of the country towards Sifaka. Birding along the main trails presents opportunities to Ranomafana, breaking the journey with a night at Antsirabe. see various members of the endemic Malagasy bird families.

42 With luck we should find Henst’s Goshawk, Pollen’s Vanga, Flufftail is occasionally glimpsed, along with Madagascar Pitta-like Ground-roller, Brown Mesite, Madagascar Wood- Wood-rail, White-throated Rail, Madagascar Pygmy rail, Velvet Asity, Forest Rock Thrush, Forest Fody and Kingfisher, Red-fronted Coua and the amazing Blue Coua. In Cryptic Warbler. An adjacent forest reserve at Vohiparara is the evening we hope to find Rainforest Scops Owl and home to the striking Yellow-bellied Sunbird-asity, a species Madagascar Long-eared Owl, whilst the cryptically-plumaged we will not encounter elsewhere. The Rufous-headed Collared Nightjar may be seen at a daytime roost. Ground-roller is also a possibility, along with the mouse-like Brown Emutail. We will check marshes en route for numerous After a final morning’s birding at Perinet we will head back to Red Fody and Madagascar Stonechats, as well as Tana, arriving in good time for our late evening flight home. Madagascar Snipe, Hammerkop and Grey Emutail. CLIMATE AND PACE After three days in this superb area we will continue south to We can expect hot weather in the lowlands, and warm or hot Isalo, a dramatic area of sandstone escarpments, spectacular weather at Perinet and Ranamafana. September is a rather canyons and grassland. dry month, but rain is nevertheless possible at these two sites. Breakfast will be taken early (7am or earlier). Due to the TULEAR, ISALO AND IFATY high mid-day temperatures we plan to do morning and late Two days at Isalo will give us plenty of time to explore the afternoon excursions, with time off in between to siesta. Basic area. We will have a good chance of seeing a group of Ring- fitness is all that is required. At Perinet and Ranomafana tailed Lemurs, as well as the beautiful Verreaux’s Sifaka and there are several short but steep slopes. Elsewhere, the Red-fronted Brown Lemur. Benson’s Rock Thrush occur in terrain is mostly flat and the walks are easy. the canyons. Madagascar Harrier-hawk, African Marsh Owl, Madagascar Partridge, Madagascar Coucal, Malagasy ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Kingfisher, Madagascar Lark and Madagascar Paradise Full-board accommodation is provided with one night at Flycatcher should all be seen, as well as Souimanga Sunbird Relais des Plateaux, Tana, one night at Royal Palace, and White-headed Vanga. Antsirabe, three nights at the Setam Lodge, Ranomafana, two nights at Satrana Hotel, Isalo, two nights at Caliente The next day we will drive south to Tulear, for two nights. Beach Hotel, Tulear, two nights at Les Dunes Hotel, Ifaty, one Birding en route at Zombitse, where one of Madagascar’s night back at Relais des Plateaux, Tana and two nights at the most localised birds, the Appert’s Tetraka can be found, Andasibe Hotel, Perinet. All are very comfortable, with en along with White-browed Owl, Giant Coua, Greater Vasa suite facilities and good food. Lunch will normally be at the Parrot and Cuckoo-Roller. hotel, but may be packed when we expect to be away during the middle of the day. In the evening good numbers of Madagascar Nightjars can be seen as well as Torotoroka Scops Owl. The next morning we PRICE INCLUDES ….. will take a boat to Nosy Ve, an island with a nesting colony of All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local Red-tailed Tropicbirds. We will then have a cool drink at guides, full-board accommodation (starting with breakfast on Anakao beach, where the localised Littoral Rock Thrush 11th, ending with dinner on 24th), soft drinks at meal times, should be waiting for us. In the afternoon we will look for the local transport by mini-coach, reserve entrance fees, boat endemic Red-shouldered Vanga and Verreaux’s Coua. trip, internal flight, international flights and airport taxes.

On day 10 we will drive to Ifaty, spending two nights at the WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED lovely Les Dunes Hotel. One of the planet’s most endangered Travel insurance. Cost of a visa (approx. £40 and obtainable habitats, the now fragmented spiny forest, is home to some on arrival). Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. weird and wonderful plants and animals. Our local guides have an uncanny ability to find the special birds here including Long-tailed Ground-roller, Thamnornis, Sub-desert INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow to Antananarivo (via Mesite, Running Coua, Sub-desert Brush Warbler, Archbold’s Paris) using the scheduled services of Air France. Outbound Newtonia, Hook-billed Vanga and Lafresnaye’s Vanga. Noisy flight departs early morning, return flight arrives back early groups of Sickle-billed Vangas provide one of the highlights of afternoon. It may also be possible to fly from Manchester and this trip. Nearby pools and coastal marshes hold Madagascar other UK airports to Paris. Please phone for details. Plover, Greater Flamingo and Hottentot Teal.

ANDASIBE-MANTADIA NATIONAL PARK 15 nights including After a short internal flight we will arrive back in Tana, one overnight flight: 10th to 25th September 2016 spending the night here. The next morning we will visit Lake Alorobia, where highlights may include Dimorphic Egret and Principal leader: Paul Willoughby Madagascar Pond Heron, with a chance of Meller’s Duck amongst the thousands of wildfowl here. These may in turn Local guides: at each site we will use the attract a rare Madagascar Harrier. Later in the day we will services of very good local drive east to Perinet, for two nights. Here, Madagascar’s most guides accessible rainforest is home to many lemurs and birds. The forest resounds to the haunting cries of the Indri, the largest Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader of the lemurs. We also hope to see Common Brown Lemur, and local guides Furry-eared Dwarf Lemur and Eastern Lesser Bamboo Cost with discount Lemur, as well as the beautiful Diademed Sifaka. (if you book before £3980 per person sharing th 28 May 2016): (£490 single supplement) Our hotel is ideally placed for exploring the area. The most highly sought-after birds are the ground-rollers, and we may Full Cost: £4130 per person sharing well see all four species that occur here. Parties of forest birds mainly comprise species found nowhere else on earth, Deposit: £1000 per person such as Spectacled Tetraka, Madagascar White-eye, Blue Vanga and the remarkable Nuthatch Vanga. Madagascar

43 ESTONIA IN AUTUMN crane migration and rutting elk in this unspoilt corner of Europe

Estonia is one of our favourite places to visit and this year we are offering an Nutcracker autumn tour to some of the best sites it has to offer. It will be a two centre holiday during which we will visit some of the country’s prime spots for bird migration.

Matsalu Bay is perhaps the most important site on the East Atlantic/Baltic flyway. In the autumn it becomes a staging post for thousands of Common Cranes. Countless numbers of wildfowl are on migration too, including Barnacle Geese, White-fronted Geese and Tundra Bean Geese. These large concentrations of wildfowl inevitably attract raptors and this is a great place to see White-tailed Eagles. Both Marsh and Hen Harriers hunt the marshes and meadows where we have also seen the rarer Pallid Harrier.

The Gulf of Finland is the narrow eastern arm of the Baltic Sea which lies between Estonia and the southern tip of Finland. The massive autumn migration of hundreds of thousands of ducks, geese and swans and tens of thousands of waders and divers is concentrated in this narrow waterway. This is a spectacle which every birdwatcher should experience as a multitude of waterfowl take the flyway from their breeding grounds in the Russian Arctic to their wintering grounds in Europe.

Estonia still retains some 50% forest cover, a good proportion of which consists of old growth forest. Amongst the forest and bogs we will look for Capercaillie, Hazel Grouse, Black Grouse and, of course, Nutcracker. This typically elusive woodland species becomes more confiding in the autumn. Woodpeckers are good indicators of forest bird diversity and we should encounter several resident species including Black, White-backed and Three-toed.

There are over 500 Brown Bears and an estimated 12,000 Elk still roaming around in Estonia. Autumn is the time for rutting Elk and they become easier to observe when they have their minds on other things! A highlight of the trip will be the opportunity to make an overnight stay in a bear observation hide. Here we have the chance to see, at close quarters, one of Europe’s most impressive mammals, the Brown Bear.

ITINERARY winter stores. Capercaillie is a majestic inhabitant of the Western Taiga forest and Hazel Grouse is common. Where ALUTAGUSE there are clearings in the forest, Black Grouse feed out in the Having arrived in Tallinn we will transfer to our hotel in open. Along forest tracks the tell-tale signs of passing bears Rakvere in north-eastern Estonia for a stay of three nights. and elk are very obvious. The forests of the surrounding Alutaguse are proving to be exceptional for watching woodpeckers and grouse as well as Crested Tits are a common bird here as is the distinctive for mammal activity. The list of woodpeckers here is borealis race of Willow Tit. Northern Long-tailed Tits with their impressive and we should see Black, White-backed and striking white heads form roving parties through the woods. Three-toed Woodpeckers. At this time of year Jays and As the leaves start turning and autumn takes its hold, we will Nutcrackers will be in evidence as they gather food for their

44 witness the start of the passerine migration from the Baltic. At A half hour drive from Haapsalu will take us to the forest bogs its peak thousands of common birds, Starlings, Song of Leidisso. Although forest birds are usually rather shy, we will Thrushes, Blackbirds, Goldcrests, Chaffinches and have a second opportunity to look for Nutcrackers, Bramblings depart for warmer climes. woodpeckers and Hazel Grouse. This area also harbours Elk and we have made regular sightings of Pine Marten here. Late Other possibilities here include birds of prey such as flying butterflies can be found in the autumn sunshine such as Goshawk and Golden Eagle, whilst Lesser Spotted Eagles the attractive Camberwell Beauty. will be moving south. Night birds are always a challenge. However, towards dusk we may encounter Nightjar or On day eight we will be head back to Tallinn for our flight home. exceptionally a Ural Owl. For those who wish, there will be Alternatively, why not extend your stay and spend a couple of the opportunity to make an overnight stay in a bear days and nights in Tallinn? We can arrange for your observation hide. Here we have a chance to see, at close accommodation in the heart of the city. The Old Town and other quarters, one of Europe’s most impressive mammals, the attractions can easily be visited on foot. Brown Bear. Raccoon Dog and Red Fox are also regular visitors to the feeding station in front of the observation hide. CLIMATE AND PACE On our previous visits we have enjoyed beautiful autumnal MATSALU BAY weather, with warm days and clear skies. However, this is not On day four we will head westwards to our second hotel, near guaranteed, and changeable weather with cooler Haapsalu. It is well situated for visits to Estonia’s premier temperatures and rain are possible. Breakfast will be taken at reserve, Matsalu Bay, as well as for watching migrants moving about 8am. Optional pre-breakfast walks will be possible in through the Gulf of Finland. the vicinity of the hotels. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length Matsalu is a Ramsar site and one of the most important walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly. There are no wetlands in Northern Europe; a vast coastal bay where forests uphill walks. give way to water meadows, extensive reedbeds and a large but shallow lagoon. The bay provides a staging post for ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD thousands of migrating wildfowl, in particular Bewick’s Swans, Full-board accommodation is provided with three nights at the Barnacle Geese and Eurasian White-fronted Geese. Amongst Westenbergh Hotel in Rakvere and four nights at a lovely them we could also find Tundra Bean Geese or the odd vagrant rural hotel near Haapsalu. Rooms are of a very good such as a Red-breasted or Lesser White-fronted Goose. Up to standard with en suite facilities. Lunch will usually be taken at 20,000 Common Cranes gather around the bay and the sights a local restaurant, with the occasional picnic. There is an and sounds of their roosting flights is an unforgettable wildlife option for one night in the bear observation hide at Alutaguse, experience. with food and bedding provided. We will keep our rooms in Rakvere, so no need to pack and unpack. The hide is fitted We have two days to explore Matsalu. This is the mating with comfortable bunk beds and a toilet. season of the Elk which is abundant in the extensive forests. There are several places we know where we can observe these PRICE INCLUDES ….. huge creatures grazing in wet meadows. Along the winding All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full board rivers we may also spot European Beaver as they emerge later accommodation (starting with dinner on 17th, ending with in the day. lunch on 24th), soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus, reserve entrance fees and international flights. On one day we will visit the coast to look for migrating birds passing the north-west tip of Estonia. A staggering one million WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Long-tailed Ducks pass Spithami and Poosaspea on migration. Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. Velvet and Common Scoters, Goldeneye, Common Eider, and Black-throated and Red-throated Divers all pass through in favourable winds. Migration can be unpredictable, but has the INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from Manchester to Tallinn using the scheduled potential to provide surprises. We could hope to see a White- services of Ryanair. Outbound flight departs mid-morning, billed Diver or perhaps even a Steller’s Eider or two. with return landing late afternoon. This is also a good place to observe migrating birds of prey as this is the narrowest crossing point in the Baltic. During one of 7 nights: 17th to 24th September 2016 our visits to the area we recorded fourteen species of raptor including Rough-legged Buzzard, Golden Eagle, Osprey, Principal leader: John McLoughlin Lesser Spotted Eagle, Black Kite and Pallid Harrier. Local guide: Margus Pensa The headland here is also an exceptional place to witness passerine migration. This may be in the form of visible Maximum group size: 7 clients with one leader or migration, when thousands of songbirds can be seen passing 12 clients with two leaders overhead. It can also involve grounded migrants that are resting Cost with discount and replenishing their fat reserves before continuing their (if you book before £1590 per person sharing th journey. In the dune slacks and meadows we will search for 4 June 2016): (£210 single supplement) migrants such as thrushes, flycatchers and warblers. These also attract the attentions of passing Sparrowhawks and Full Cost: £1690 per person sharing Merlins or, if we are lucky, a splendid Great Grey Shrike. Deposit: £300 per person

45 MALAWI AND ZAMBIA the warm heart of Africa

Malawi is both quintessentially African and yet unique. Whether you have Schalow’s Turaco been to Africa many times before or it is your first visit to the Dark Continent, this is an ideal destination. Malawi was voted the friendliest country in Africa in a recent poll by Lonely Planet, and is renowned for its warm welcome and open smile. It is also quite a small country with good roads, which make a big difference when it comes to travelling around. The absence of lions in Malawi allows us to do a lot of birding on foot.

Our time in Zambia will be more like a traditional safari, with the fantastic birdlife of South Luangwa complemented by mammals such as Lion, Leopard and Giraffe. This national park is justly famous as one of the great wildlife parks of Africa. There will be game drives twice a day, relaxing between times at the beautiful Kafunta Lodge. We will visit a breeding colony of Southern Carmine Bee-eater, and see other birds that we may not have seen in Malawi, such as Grey Crowned Crane and Three-banded Courser.

We will be sufficiently north of South Africa and Namibia and south of Kenya to make the flora and fauna surprisingly different from those destinations. Hundreds of bird species occur; almost four hundred were seen on our last visit. We can also expect a good selection of mammals including Elephant, Hippopotamus, Buffalo, Spotted Hyena, Warthog and Burchell’s Zebra.

ITINERARY boat trips from the lodge. Pel’s Fishing Owl is regularly seen fishing during an evening boat trip, and we have even seen LILONGWE, MALAWI them from the restaurant. Besides abundant Nile Crocodiles After our overnight flight, we will welcome the fact that our and Hippos, birds should include many species of heron, ibis lodge for the first two nights is just a short drive from the and stork, including the amazing Saddle-billed Stork. Water airport. Exploring the extensive grounds of Kumbali Lodge, Thick-knees and Long-toed Lapwings can be seen along the we will look for Schalow’s Turaco, Heuglin’s Robin and banks. In the trees are Lilian’s Lovebird and the rather Scarlet-chested Sunbird. We will visit Lilongwe Nature secretive Brown-headed Parrot. Half a dozen species of Sanctuary where there is African Broadbill, Hildebrandt’s kingfisher and several species of bee-eater can also be seen. Francolin and Half-collared Kingfisher. A speciality is the rare Boehm’s Bee-eater which is actually both common and confiding around the grounds. They nest in LIWONDE, MALAWI burrows dug directly into the ground, sometimes in the middle We will then have four nights at the superb Mvuu Camp in of the dirt tracks used by the safari jeeps! Liwonde National Park. The Shire River is the only outlet from Lake Malawi and the Liwonde Reserve encompasses the Elephants are very common here and though we are allowed huge wetlands that surround it just to the south of the lake. to wander around on foot we are always accompanied by an We take a boat to the camp where the gardens run down to experienced tracker. A large area of the park has also been the river. This area has the highest density of Hippos protected by a security fence where Black Rhino breed. anywhere in the world, and we will get amazingly close views. They even come on to the hotel lawns during the night. Many birds can be seen around the grounds. We will take several

46 LAKE MALAWI CLIMATE AND PACE Malawi is famous for the huge lake that constitutes almost a At this time of year the temperature is very comfortable. We third of the surface area of the country. Our base for the next can expect warm days, hotting up in the lowlands in the two nights is Chintheche Inn, which lies approximately half afternoons. Upland areas are pleasantly warm, with chilly way down the western edge of the lake. The hinterland nights. Rain is unlikely throughout. Breakfast will mostly be behind the lake offers a range of excellent habitats from the taken early (7am or earlier). On other days it may be taken delightful Miombo forests with their open nature to much later to give us time for pre-breakfast walks. Due to the fairly thicker evergreen forests. Birds include Hammerkop, Palm- high mid-day temperatures we plan to do morning and late nut Vulture, Brown Snake-eagle, Tambourine Dove, African afternoon excursions, with time off in between to siesta. Barred Owlet, Pennant-winged Nightjar and Black-collared Travelling is made a pleasure due to the high standard of Barbet. We will take half a day off here for swimming and most roads and small size of the country. Basic fitness is all relaxing, although those that want to will find plenty of that is required. There will be a little optional uphill walking at opportunities for birdwatching in the hotel gardens and Nyika. Otherwise the terrain is fairly flat. surrounding area. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD NYIKA AND VIPHYA, MALAWI Full-board accommodation is provided, with two nights at We will drive north to the Nyika Plateau and spend a good Kumbali Lodge, Lilongwe, four nights at Mvuu Camp in deal of the day stopping and birding along the way. We will Liwonde, two nights at Chintheche Inn, Lake Malawi, three stay at Chelinda Lodge for three nights, deep in the Nyika nights at Chelinda Lodge, Nyika, two nights at Luwawa Forest reserve. Nyika has a different feel to the rest of Malawi, being Lodge, Viphya, three nights at Kafunta River Lodge, South situated on a high plateau and having a much more open Luangwa and one night back at Kumbali Lodge, Lilongwe. All nature. It gets cold at night and all the rooms have blazing log rooms have en suite facilities. The standard of food is very fires. At Nyika we should see large herds of the huge Eland good and Malawians like the full English breakfast rather than Antelope along with smaller numbers of Burchell’s Zebra, the continental style. Except on travelling days, lunch will Reedbuck and the beautiful Roan Antelope. normally be taken at the lodges.

Spotted Hyenas and Spotted Eagle Owl can be heard from PRICE INCLUDES ….. your bed. On optional night drives we stand a good chance of All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local mammals such as Leopard, Spotted Hyena, Porcupine, Civet, guides, full-board accommodation (starting with lunch on 9th, Genet and Thick-tailed Mongoose. ending with breakfast on 26th), soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus and safari Land Cruisers, all boat trips, Birds of prey include Pallid Harrier, Dark Chanting Goshawk, site entrance fees, international flights and airport taxes. Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk, Augur Buzzard, Wahlberg’s Eagle and Verreaux’s Eagle. A small population of Wattled WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Crane are still hanging on here and we have had superb Travel insurance. Cost of obtaining Malawi and Zambian views of this extraordinary bird on previous visits. Other visas (total US$125 and both obtainable on arrival). Items of specialities of the area include Red-winged Francolin, a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry. Denham’s Bustard, Pennant-winged Nightjar, Bar-tailed Trogon, Moustached Tinkerbird, Angola Swallow, Blue Swallow, Bar-throated Apalis, Cinnamon Bracken-warbler, INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Flights are from London Heathrow to Lilongwe (via Addis Mountain Yellow Warbler and Malawi Batis. Ababa), using the scheduled services of Ethiopian Airways. Outbound flight departs mid-evening, return flight arrives back After two full days birding the plateau we will spend the next early morning. day driving and birding Nyika and will arrive in the late Domestic flights from Manchester and afternoon at Luwawa Forest Lodge on the Viphya Plateau. other UK airports are avaiable on this tour. See booking Good birding is to be had in the garden. Birds include Bronze form for details. and Copper Sunbirds and African Wood Owl. The elusive African Broadbill gave great views here on our last visit. Scaly 19 nights including Francolin is found nowhere else in Malawi. The next day we two overnight flights: 8th to 27th October 2016 will have a full day birding on the Viphya Plateau. Principal leader: Andrew Woodall SOUTH LUANGWA, ZAMBIA After two nights on the Viphya Plateau we will drive over the Local guide: Abasi Jana border into Zambia and have a picnic lunch, arriving at Kafunta River Lodge in South Luangwa in the late afternoon. Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader We will have two full days to explore the park, with morning and a local guide and afternoon game drives on both days. This is a great area Cost with discount for Leopards, Lions, Elephants and Giraffes. Birds include (if you book before £5580 per person sharing th Southern Carmine Bee-eater, Grey Crowned Crane, Saddle- 25 June 2016): (£790 single supplement) billed Stork, Crested Barbet and Three-banded Courser. Full Cost: £5730 per person sharing After three nights here we will spend a leisurely day driving back to Kumbali Lodge. The following morning we will head to Deposit: £1000 per person the airport for our flight home.

47 SOUTH AFRICA the Cape to Kruger – a classic itinerary

South Africa is a land of contrasts with an incredible diversity of natural habitats, ranging from arid deserts to moist forests; rugged mountains encircling open grasslands; woodland of various types; wetlands; and the unique Cape floral kingdom. South Africa has a high standard of accommodation, fine restaurants, excellent roads and a great number of national and provincial parks and private game reserves.

Our tour starts in Cape Town at the southern tip of the African continent. We stay for three nights on the Cape Peninsula and experience the best of Cape Sugarbird and African Penguins the many birding hotspots in this stunningly scenic region. We then move north for two nights at Langebaan, adjoining the magnificent West Coast National Park, which encircles a ten mile long tidal lagoon.

We then fly direct from Cape Town to the world famous Kruger National Park. Here we stay for four glorious nights. Kruger is well known as the home of the “Big Five”: lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino. We will also encounter a lot more exciting mammals and numerous brightly coloured birds.

Finally, we will drive a short distance west to Mount Sheba, for our final three nights. Offering easy access to superb Afromontane forest and montane grassland, Mount Sheba is a lovely place to end the tour. Orange Ground- thrush, White-starred Robin, Narina Trogon and Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher are amongst the exotic birds that are found here.

ITINERARY Red-chested Cuckoo and Spotted Eagle Owl should be present and Black Saw-wing Swallow flies low over the THE CAPE PENINSULA valleys. Having arrived in Cape Town in the evening, we will transfer straight to Simon’s Town on the Cape Peninsula, a lovely Later in the day we will head back to Simon’s Town and visit seaside town with Royal Navy origins. Our base for the next Boulders Beach, where there is a large breeding colony of three nights, the Whale View Manor Guesthouse, is right by African Penguins. You will be able to see and photograph the beach, with beautiful views across False Bay. Our guide, these birds at very close range. Other birds found here Patrick, lives in Simon’s Town and knows just where to find include Swift Tern, African Black Oystercatcher and Cape the area’s special birds. Cormorant, while Rock Hyrax scamper across the boulders. On our first morning we will visit Kirstenbosch. These world famous botanical gardens nestle below the steep slopes of The next day we will drive round False Bay to Rooi-Els and Table Mountain and are a wonderful venue for a relaxing Betty’s Bay. This spectacular stretch of coast is a great place stroll, with pleasing landscapes and spectacular indigenous to see Southern Right Whales, which come close inshore to plants. These, in turn, attract numerous birds such as breed at this time of year. The endemic Cape Rockjumper is Orange-breasted Sunbird, Malachite Sunbird and Cape a speciality of the area, and while looking for it we may also Sugarbird. Common birds include Cape Bulbul, Cape Batis, come across Victorin’s Scrub-warbler, Ground Woodpecker, Olive Thrush, Cape White-eye, Karoo Prinia, Hadada Ibis, Cape Robin-chat, Cape Siskin and Cape Rock-thrush. In the Dusky Flycatcher, Cape Turtle Dove and Cape Spurfowl. afternoon we will visit False Bay Environmental Park, where a

48 whole range of new species await us. White Pelican, Greater the beautiful Orange Ground-thrush, as well as Blue-mantled Flamingo, Cape Teal, Red-billed Teal, Cape Shoveler and Crested Flycatcher, Barratt’s Warbler, Olive Woodpecker, Yellow-billed Duck are found on the pans. Levaillant’s White-starred Robin, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Cisticola is the commonest warbler, and we may also see Narina Trogon, Knysna Turaco and Emerald Cuckoo. Bush Little Rush-warbler and Lesser Swamp-warbler. Blackcap is another speciality, but can be difficult. Protea bushes hold Gurney’s Sugarbirds and Drakensberg Prinias. LANGEBAAN AND WEST COAST NATIONAL PARK On day four we will make an early visit to the Cape of Good After the challenges of forest birding, the open country Hope Nature Reserve, before the tourist buses arrive. This grassland and rocky bluffs of the Dullstroom area offer an iconic site is worth a visit for the scenery alone, but we will easier experience. Buff-streaked Chats and Sentinel Rock- also be alert for the beautiful Cape Grassbird, as well as thrush perch up like wheatears, and we will scan the open Ostrich, Jackal Buzzard, Grey-backed Cisticola and Cape country for Black-winged Lapwing, Southern Bald Ibis, Bunting. Offshore we may see Cape Gannets and White- Wattled Crane, Blue Crane and Denham’s Bustard. chinned Petrel, while if there have been onshore winds we might even glimpse a distant Shy Albatross. Mammals on the Two full days in the area will give us ample time to do it cape include Mountain Zebra, Eland and the rare endemic justice. Finally, after lunch on day 13 we will drive to Bontebok. Later in the morning we will head north up the Johannesburg, arriving in time for our evening flight home. coast to Langebaan, our home for the next two nights. CLIMATE AND PACE Most of our time here will be spent in the West Coast National We can expect dry, sunny weather in the Cape. Kruger is Park. The enormous tidal lagoon in the park is an likely to be hotter, with a chance of short sharp showers. The internationally recognised birding hotspot. Thousands of cooler temperatures and early wildlife activity mean that we migrant waders converge on this site after their long flight must rise early to make the most of the opportunities from breeding grounds in the Arctic. There will be familiar available. Basic fitness is all that is required. There will be birds such as Whimbrel, Red Knot, Grey Plover, Bar-tailed very little uphill walking, done at a sensible pace. We also Godwit, Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint, alongside less have one early start to get to Cape Town airport on day six. familiar Marsh Sandpiper, Kittlitz’s Plover and Three-banded Plover. The scarce Chestnut-banded Plover should also be ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD found at one site. Southern Black Korhaan may be seen Full-board accommodation is provided, with three nights at displaying, while the area is an important site for the beautiful the Whale View Manor Guesthouse, Simon’s Town, two Black Harrier. In the scrub there are numerous Bokmakieries nights at the Farmhouse Hotel, Langebaan, two nights in and smaller numbers of Karoo Scrub-robins, plus Cape chalets at the Skukuza Camp in Kruger, two nights in chalets Weaver, Yellow Bishop and White-throated Canary. at Notten’s Camp, Sabi Sands (Kruger), and three nights at the Mount Sheba Resort. All are of a good standard and all From Langebaan, we will also visit Lambert’s Bay, home to rooms have an en suite bathroom. Lunch will normally be at thousands of pairs of Cape Gannets. We can watch them at the hotel restaurant, but occasionally we will take a picnic. point blank range, alongside numerous Cape Fur Seals. PRICE INCLUDES ….. KRUGER NATIONAL PARK All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local On day six we will drive to Cape Town and take a direct flight guide, full-board accommodation (starting with breakfast on into the mighty Kruger National Park. The park is the size of 6th, ending with lunch on 17th), soft drinks at meal times, Wales and has the greatest diversity of animal life of any bottled water throughout, transport throughout by minibus, all national park worldwide. Our time in the park is split between safari activities, reserve entrance fees, domestic flight and two camps, Skukuza and Notten’s Camp. The former is international flights. located near the Kruger Gate, and is perfectly situated for finding a range of mammals and birds. The latter is one of the WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED original private camps and offers an unsurpassed safari Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. experience, with guides who are able to find us most, and maybe all, of the big five. We can see the beautiful Purple- crested Lourie, Brown-headed Parrot, Brown-hooded INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from most UK airports to Cape Town, returning Kingfisher, Eastern Black-headed Oriole, Little Sparrowhawk, from Johannesburg (both via Amsterdam) using the Orange-breasted Bush-shrike, Woodland Kingfisher, Lilac- scheduled services of KLM. Outbound flight departs early breasted Roller, Yellow-billed Hornbill, African Green Pigeon morning, return flight arrives back mid-afternoon. and Scarlet-chested Sunbird. Large birds include Martial Eagle, Southern Ground Hornbill, Saddle-billed Stork, White- headed and Lappet-faced Vultures and Secretarybird. From a 13 nights including hide by Lake Panic we should see Giant and Malachite one overnight flight: 5th to 18th November 2016 Kingfishers, plus the energetic Black Crake and a lot of activity from a colony of Spotted-backed Weavers. Principal leader: Phil Palmer

Mammals include White Rhinoceros, Giraffe, Greater Kudu, Local guide: Patrick Cardwell Plains Zebra, Blue Wildebeest, Cape Buffalo, Hippopotamus, African Elephant, Bushbuck, Lion and, if we are lucky, African Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader Wild Dog and Cheetah. Spotlighting at night may reveal a and a local guide Spotted Hyena or Leopard. Around the camps we may find Cost with discount Greater Bushbaby, Honey Badger and Small Spotted Genet. (if you book before £4190 per person sharing rd 23 July 2016): (£560 single supplement) MOUNT SHEBA AND DULLSTROOM After four superb days and nights of safari activities we will Full Cost: £4340 per person sharing leave Kruger and head west, into the northern Drakensberg range. Staying at the Mount Sheba resort for three nights, we Deposit: £600 per person will have Afromontane forest on our doorstep. We will look for

49 THE FALKLANDS AND ASCENSION albatrosses, penguins, steamer-ducks and more, in this remote British outpost

On previous Bird Holidays tours we have visited the Falkland Islands as part of an extensive sub- Antarctic wildlife cruise. After a few years without a trip, we thought it was time to return, not as part of a cruise, but as an outstanding destination in its own right. Rockhopper Penguin

During the Southern Hemisphere summer the islands are home to thousands of breeding seabirds. The rugged South Atlantic scenery complements the memorable experience of the wildlife spectacle.

Breeding seabirds include four species of penguin, the iconic King Penguin being one of the highlights of this trip. Three quarters of the world’s Black-browed Albatrosses nest, whilst hordes of Elephant Seals and Sea Lions occupy the beaches on several islands. Pods of Killer Whales loiter offshore as they wait for the young seal pups to venture into the sea.

Carcass Island will again feature, but this time we will stay on the island itself. Here our first penguins will be the burrow-nesting Magellanic Penguins. The island is particularly important for birds and holds a good population of the endemic Cobb’s Wren. The Striated Caracara is present in high numbers. Red-backed Hawks and Falkland Skuas patrol the penguin colonies, whilst Southern Giant Petrels maraud offshore. Staying on the island will give us the freedom to explore at our leisure and experience a pristine environment in almost complete isolation. Our second home from home will be on the famous Sea Lion Island, the most southerly inhabited island, located off the East Falkland mainland. Here the most numerous penguin is the Gentoo and some 4000 pairs breed. In contrast we can watch the pint-sized Rockhopper Penguins hurl themselves ashore from the rolling surf.

Flying in from Brize Norton, we land at Mount Pleasant on East Falkland. On the return journey we will take the opportunity to stopover on Ascension to enjoy the sub-tropical climate, amazing scenery and exotic seabirds.

ITINERARY the island. This provides nesting sites for Magellanic Penguins as well as smaller birds such as Grass Wrens and DARWIN Blackish Cinclodes. Breeding waterfowl include the Ruddy- Having arrived on an overnight flight we will spend the first headed Goose. Freshwater pools attract Silvery and White- night at Darwin. Situated by the East Falkland isthmus, it is tufted Grebes, Crested Duck, Chiloe Wigeon, Yellow-billed close to Goose Green and San Carlos, place names which Pintail and Silver Teal. will resonate with visitors from the UK. Familiar birds in this area include Upland Goose, Correndera Pipit and the Around the settlement, ornamental cabbage palms and strikingly red Long-tailed Meadowlark. cypress trees provide an almost tropical feel to the place. This habitat attracts small birds such as the ubiquitous Black- CARCASS ISLAND AND WEST POINT ISLAND chinned Siskin. Islands off the north-west coast of West Falkland comprise some of the most rugged and beautiful parts of the Given favourable weather conditions we will take a day trip archipelago. None are more beautiful than Carcass Island, out to West Point Island. Here we have the opportunity to visit our base for the next three nights. Carcass Island is rat free, a mixed Black-browed Albatross and Southern Rockhopper allowing native vegetation and wildlife to thrive. The endemic Penguin colony. These wonderful birds are quite fearless and Cobb’s Wren frequents the rocky shoreline. Huge stands of allow close approach for observation and photography. The native Tussac Grass have been able to re-colonise much of

50 striking male Kelp Goose, which breeds on rocky outcrops, is Boatswainbird island lies off the east coast and can be virtually pure white whilst the female’s blackish plumage reached by boat from the main island. The term matches the colour of the rocks. ‘boatswainbird’ refers to the tropicbirds which nest on the island and two species occur, Red-billed and White-tailed On the boat journey to and from West Point, and in the bays Tropicbird. Other species nesting on this small rock include around the island, we can expect to come across pods of Madeiran Storm-petrel. The attractive Fairy Terns nest Peale’s and Commerson’s Dolphins. alongside two species of booby, the Red-footed and Brown. Both Brown and Black Noddies nest on the ledges of this SEA LION ISLAND seabird island. On day six we will head south to Sea Lion Island, our base for the next two nights. Only five miles long, it is a small island, After the cool weather of the Falklands, we will enjoy the sub- yet boasts a range of habitats including heathland, stands of tropical warmth of this island. Green Turtles will have started Tussac Grass, fresh water pools, beaches and rocky cliffs. A to lay their eggs on the island’s beaches. If the opportunity large colony of braying Gentoo Penguins breeds very close to arises we will go out one evening to observe them at close our accommodation. During the Austral spring the beaches quarters. Offshore, Rough-toothed and Bottle-nosed Dolphins are littered with Southern Elephant Seals of all ages. The occur in small numbers. Blackish Cinclodes, or Tussacbird, seeks out tasty pickings amongst the loafing seals. CLIMATE AND PACE On the Falklands the weather can be variable, with daily Although penguin numbers have declined over the last fifty temperatures ranging from 6˚C to 12˚C. It is often sunny, with years, there are still some 300,000 pairs of Southern showers moving through quickly. Windy days are common. Rockhopper Penguins nesting around the islands. We shall On Ascension it will be a lot warmer and rather humid, the enjoy watching these rowdy birds surf ashore before hopping average high being 28˚C. Breakfast will be taken at about up the cliffs to their breeding colonies. Nesting Falkland Blue- 7.30am most mornings. Basic fitness will be required, with eyed Shags seek security amongst the noisy penguins. some walking on uneven ground. There will be some uphill walking, at a gentle pace. Other species to look out for include Southern and Northern Giant Petrels, Black-browed Albatross, White-chinned Petrel, ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Sooty Shearwater, Falklands Skua, Snowy Sheathbill, Full-board accommodation is provided, with one night at Dolphin Gull, Magellanic Snipe, Rufous-chested Dotterel, and Darwin House, three nights in a traditional guest farmhouse Two-banded Plover. White-rumped Sandpipers, long distance on Carcass Island, two nights at Sea Lion Lodge, Sea Lion migrants from Arctic Canada, winter on the beaches here. Island, two nights at the Malvina House Hotel, Stanley and three nights at the Odissian Hotel on Ascension. All Travel between the outer islands will be on the colourful air hotels/guesthouses are of a good standard and all rooms taxis, the FIGAS Islander aircraft. This allows for magnificent have en suite bathrooms. Many of the meals will be made views of the island scenery en route. using locally farmed organic produce.

STANLEY PRICE INCLUDES ….. Next we visit the islands’ capital, for a two night stay at the All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local newly refurbished, and highly recommended, Malvina House guides, full-board accommodation (starting with dinner on Hotel. This small town, with a population of only 2000, still 14th, ending with dinner on 25th), soft drinks at meal times, retains its Victorian charm. Beneath the brightly painted bottled water throughout, all ground transportation and boat rooftops, the Falklands’ subspecies of Austral Thrush nests in trips, site entrance fees, Ascension Island entry permit, the quaint gardens. The waterfront is a good place to look out internal flights and international flights. for the flightless Falkland Steamer Duck, an island endemic. Rock Shags nest on an old shipwreck here. WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. A day excursion from Stanley takes us to the King Penguin colony at Volunteer Point. Here, at the northern edge of their range, over a thousand pairs of King Penguins breed. A great INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Flights are with a major civilian airline, chartered by the RAF conservation success story, they returned to breed in the and operated out of RAF Brize Norton, to the Falklands (via Falklands in 1971 and have increased ever since. This Ascension). Outbound flight departs late evening, return flight species has a two year breeding cycle so there will be mix of arrives back early morning. activity and age classes around the colony. There should be These are limited to just ten many of last season’s well grown downy young as well as civilians per flight, so it is essential that you book as adult birds settling down to nest. soon as possible.

After a second night in Stanley we will prepare for a morning 13 nights including departure to Ascension Island, and a three day stopover on two overnight flights: 13th to 26th November 2016 the way back to the UK. Principal leader: John McLoughlin ASCENSION ISLAND The rocky volcanic outcrop of Ascension Island sits all alone Maximum group size: 7 clients with one leader in the mid-Atlantic. It is a major breeding site for seabirds. Thousands of birds nest on Boatswainbird Island, including Cost with discount the endemic Ascension Frigatebird. Small numbers of (if you book before £6750 per person sharing st frigatebirds are now also nesting on the mainland, made 31 July 2016): (single supplement – possible by the eradication of the island’s feral cats. Sooty please contact us) Tern is on the increase, now that its main predator has gone. A large colony is situated on the lava plain next to the airport. Full Cost: £6900 per person sharing

Deposit: £1000 per person

51 CUBA colourful, extraordinary, fascinating (and that’s just the birds!)

This slim, 780 mile long island is the largest in the Caribbean, and has all the attractions you would expect from the region: sunshine, white beaches, tropical forests and a laid back way of life.

But there is so much more to this unique island. Firstly there are the birds. In addition to the various Caribbean specialities such as Great Lizard-cuckoo, Greater Antillean Grackle and Western Spindalis, there are more than twenty five species which exist only on Cuba. From the spectacular curl-tailed Cuban Trogon to the smallest bird in the world, the Bee Hummingbird, the endemic bird life is wonderful Cuban Trogon and, mostly, quite easy to see. Wintering North American wood warblers, ranging from colourful Northern Parulas to stripy-headed Worm-eating Warblers are an avian bonus. Palm Warbler, known locally as ‘Common Warbler’, can be found all over the island at this time of year.

Secondly, there is the culture. Cuba remains a colourful version of communism, with huge billboard images of heroes such as Che Guevara, reminding visitors of its turbulent past. There is a downside, of course, for many local people live in poverty, shops are empty and goods are not available. Consumerism has not arrived in Cuba, while Havana appears frozen in the 1950’s, with gloriously crumbling Spanish architecture and the famous vintage American cars still in daily use. The history and influences are puzzling and contradictory, but, like the bird life, always fascinating.

We start our tour in Pinar del Rio Province in the verdant west of the island. Then we spend a night in Havana before heading eastwards along very quiet highways to a completely different habitat on the coral islets of the north coast. From the cays we travel to the palm groves of Belen Reserve via Camaguey, before heading back west to the Gran Parque Natural Montema, more commonly known as Zapata, by the Bay of Pigs.

Cuba is in a state of change, as the US embargo on trade is finally being lifted. Do not expect supermarkets stuffed with products from all over the world or superfast wifi just yet, rather locally grown food and traditional ways of life. Many folk believe the old Cuba may soon be ‘upgraded’ beyond recognition. Cuba is unique, exceptional and memorable, and now is the time to go.

ITINERARY Pines are the home of Olive-capped Warblers. Travelling through the countryside we will see traditional farmers eking SAN DIEGO DE LOS BAÑOS out a living from the land. We may perhaps spot a roller. Not After arriving at Jose Marti Airport, in south west Havana, we one of the avian variety, but a woman rolling one of the will drive west directly to our first hotel. We will have two famous handmade cigars on her thigh. We will look for our nights in San Diego de los Banos to explore this rural area of first Antillean Palm Swift, West Indian Woodpecker, White- lush forest and limestone outcrops. The nearby La Guira Park crowned Pigeon, Cuban Trogon, Cuban Pygmy Owl, the and Cueva de los Portales are good for local specialities Cuban sub-species of Red-legged Thrush and the jewel-like which include Scaly-naped Pigeon, Cuban Solitaire, Cuban Cuban Tody. There is even an outside chance of the rare Bullfinch and Yellow-headed Warbler. Stands of Caribbean

52 Gundlach’s Hawk, whilst American Redstarts, Northern Woodland patches are temporary home to plenty of migrant Parulas and Red-legged Honeycreepers will probably find us. wood warblers including Black-and-white, Swainson’s and Black-throated Blue Warblers. LA HABANA From Los Banos we will set off for an afternoon in Havana. CLIMATE AND PACE Here we will get a taste of the Cuban son music, the vibrant We can expect dry, sunny weather throughout with only a low street life and the amazing architecture including such chance of rain. Cuba often feels humid. If the weather turns landmarks as the replica White House and the sweeping especially hot we will birdwatch the mornings and late Malecón promenade. Turkey Vultures circle overhead whilst afternoons, thus avoiding midday when birds can be quiet. ancient Oldsmobile, Buick and stretch Lada taxis cruise Our tour involves easy walking on the flat almost everywhere. around. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD We will have a Cuban-style evening meal and stay overnight Full-board accommodation is provided, with two nights at in this famous, World Heritage city. Mirador de San Diego, one night at Hotel Armadores de Santander, Havana, two nights at Sol Cayo Coco resort, two CAYO COCO nights at Finca La Belen Ranch and four nights in chalets at After a dose of culture we will head east, to the cays. This is a Playa de Larga, Zapata. Accommodation is of a beautiful area of low-lying coral islands along the northern good/medium standard and all bedrooms have en suite coast which was developed for beach tourism, and where bathrooms. Cuban hotels are perfectly clean and comfortable foreigners on package holidays were once kept away from but we must make it clear that the services are not on a par the ‘real’ Cuba. But the cays are not just tropical beaches; with modern western standards. Lunch will normally be at the there are mangroves, tidal mudflats, littoral scrub and dwarf hotel or restaurant, but occasionally we may take a picnic. woodland on the islands. Cuban food is non-spicy and rather plain outside the cities, though mostly sustainable and organic. We will have two nights at a resort, spending our time birding at a relaxed pace for a new set of specialities, including PRICE INCLUDES ….. Cuban Gnatcatcher, Oriente Warbler, Cuban and Thick-billed All birdwatching excursions with expert leader plus an Vireos and Zapata Sparrow. Our hotel is on Coco but we will English-speaking Cuban guide throughout, supplemented by also visit the uninhabited cay, Paredon Grande. We can bird specialists at the main sites, full-board accommodation expect Neotropic Cormorant, Brown Pelican, Black-crowned (starting with dinner on 24th, ending with lunch on 5th), soft and Yellow-crowned Night Herons, Pied-billed Grebe, drinks at meal times, bottled water throughout, transport by American Wigeon, West Indian Whistling-duck, Osprey, coach, reserve entrance fees, and international flights. We Laughing Gull and Royal Tern. Semipalmated Plover, also include your Cuban Tourist Card which functions as a Killdeer, Willet, Stilt Sandpiper and numerous other passage visa. waders refuel here. WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED CAMAGUEY AND LA BELEN Travel insurance. Personal items, laundry, alcoholic drinks On day seven we leave the idyllic cays behind, driving across (except at Sol Cayo Coco which is all-inclusive). the impressively long causeway inland to Camaguey for lunch. We will take a short look around this historic city before continuing on to Belen, for two nights. We will stay on a INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from most UK airports to Havana (via working ranch with a simple rural lodge near unspoilt lowland Amsterdam) using the scheduled services of KLM. Outbound forest interspersed with palm groves. This is where we will flight departs early morning, return flight arrives back mid- search for the highly localized Cuban Palm Crow, the rare afternoon. Direct flights are also available from London Cuban Parakeet, Plain Pigeon, Cuban Grassquit and the Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, at similar times. massive-billed Giant Kingbird along with commoner species such as Red-tailed Hawk and Cuban Emerald. 12 nights including ZAPATA PENINSULA one overnight flight: 24th Nov. to 6th Dec. 2016 We will then drive back westwards, passing fields of sugar cane (sugar was once the only export). We will settle into our Principal leader: Roger Barnes hotel at Playa de Larga for four nights. As well as having Cuban Parrot, Cuban Crow and plenty of other birds in the Local guide: at each site we will use the grounds, this hotel is centrally placed to cover Zapata, the services of a very good local most diverse birding region on the island. The Cienega de guide Zapata National Park, Salinas de Brito and other excellent sites are close at hand. The local guides keep tabs on the Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader and birds and will be invaluable in locating Cuban Black Hawk, local guides Bee Hummingbird, Fernandina’s Flicker, Cuban Green Cost with discount Woodpecker, Cuban Nightjar, Bare-legged and Stygian Owls, (if you book before £3090 per person sharing th Zapata Wren and more. We will make a special effort to see 11 August 2016): (£220 single supplement) the four species of secretive quail-doves, as they are particularly magnificent birds. Full Cost: £3240 per person sharing

Brackish lagoons attract Caribbean Flamingo, Anhinga, Deposit: £600 per person Reddish Egret, Roseate Spoonbill, American White Ibis, Wood Stork, Clapper Rail, Caspian and Royal Terns, Black Skimmer, Short-billed Dowitcher and Least Sandpiper.

53 GHANA from the Upper Guinea Rainforest to the edge of the Sahal

Ghana stands out as a beacon of hope in a region desperate for change. Yellow-headed Picathartes English speaking, friendly, safe and hassle-free, the visitor receives a warm welcome throughout the country. For the birdwatcher, a visit offers sightings of Upper Guinea endemics in the humid south and easy birding in the dry northern savannahs. Perhaps most significantly, Ghana is home to the most reliable site of the Yellow-headed Picathartes in the world.

A relatively short flight from the UK takes us to some of the most accessible tropical birding in Africa. Outstanding local guides and a first rate field guide make for a very rewarding experience, whilst an ever improving infrastructure (the road to Mole NP is surfaced all the way today) makes our visit all the more comfortable.

We start our journey with two nights in Accra, where we have productive visits to Sukamono Lagoon and Winneba Plain. Next comes a five night stay on the edge of Kakum National Park, with its famous canopy walkway. Bird diversity is very high here, and we need all the time we have to find those special Upper Guinea endemic birds. We then journey north, punctuated by a visit to the Picathartes site and nights in Kumari and Techiman. On our way there are forest sites that are home to the dazzling Blue-moustached Bee-eater and Congo Serpent-eagle. When we reach Mole National Park it will be clear that the journey was worthwhile, for the sight that greets the visitor is not easily forgotten. Perched on a small escarpment, the hotel overlooks a waterhole that proves attractive to birds and mammals alike, with dry woodland and savannah stretching out as far as the eye can see.

ITINERARY grassland that is home to Lizard Buzzard, Black-bellied Bustard, Levaillant’s Cuckoo, Black Coucal, Yellow-throated ACCRA AND THE SUKAMONO LAGOON Longclaw, Red-winged Warbler, Copper Sunbird, Black- Our flight will arrive in Accra in the early evening, and it is just necked Weaver, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Black-rumped a five minute drive to our hotel. Ghana is in the same time Waxbill and Orange-cheeked Waxbill. zone as the UK, so we can look forward to a good rest with no jet lag. The next day we will visit Sukamono Lagoon, a coastal wetland that was designated a Ramsar site in 1992. KAKUM NATIONAL PARK Kakum National Park protects a critically important area of Large acacias in the car park are frequented by dazzling Upper Guinea rainforest; the most accessible in the country. Purple Glossy Starlings, whilst groups of Piapiacs search Five nights at Rainforest Lodge puts us close to the park, and more open areas. Skulking Yellow-crowned Gonoleks betray in particular to the famous canopy walkway, the only such their presence by loud calls. Once we reach the water’s edge structure in Africa. Over 1000 feet long and 130 feet high, it is we will be greeted by a plethora of wetland species. White- suspended between huge emergent forest trees. Our ground faced Whistling-duck, African Jacana, Black Heron, agents are able to arrange access for us before the park is Hammerkop, Spur-winged Plover and Marsh Sandpiper open to the general public. Shortly after dawn, as the forest should all be present. Winding Cisticolas and Plain-backed slowly comes to life, we are treated to the rare privilege of Pipits are found on the edge of the marsh. observing canopy life at eye level. The next morning we will rise early to beat the Accra traffic, Some of West Africa’s most highly sought forest species can and drive west towards Kakum. We will break this three hour be found, such as the stunning Black Bee-eater, Blue journey with a visit to Winneba Plain, a seasonally flooded

54 Cuckoo-Shrike, White-headed Wood-hoopoe, Sharpe’s Warthog, Bushbuck and Waterbuck. It is perfectly safe to Apalis, Preuss’s Weavers, Grey Longbill and Chestnut- walk around the hotel area, which is good for Scarlet-chested breasted Nigrita. Malimbes are a group of particularly striking Sunbird, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Lavender Waxbill, weavers. Red-headed, Blue-billed and Crested Malimbes can Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and Red-billed Firefinch. Evening all be seen here, whilst Red-vented occurs nearby. excursions should produce sightings of both Long-tailed and Standard-winged Nightjars, with a chance of Greyish Eagle- As the day warms up, raptor watching can be productive from owl, and maybe a Small Spotted Genet. the platforms, with the chance of Cassin’s Hawk-Eagle, Palm- nut Vulture, Congo Serpent-Eagle and Long-tailed Hawk. Finally, after 12 thrilling days we will drive a couple of hours Other species to lookout for include African Grey Parrot, east to Tamale Airport, taking a domestic flight which Yellowbill, Black Dwarf Hornbill, Hairy-breasted Barbet, connects with our return flight home. Ussher’s Flycatcher and Sabine’s Puffback. Sunbirds are particularly well represented and include Collared, Little CLIMATE AND PACE Green, Olive, Fraser’s, Olive-bellied and Superb. The Ghana enjoys a tropical climate, with year-round hot and prehistoric-looking Long-tailed Pangolin can sometimes be humid weather in the south and hot dry in the north. The rains found sunbathing on top of the canopy. At the other end of finish in October, so it should be mostly dry, although rain is the day we can wait until dark in the hope of glimpsing a always a possibility. The Harmattan, a very dry and dust filled Brown Nightjar or Fraser’s Eagle-owl, as well as Pel’s wind, does not start until January, making this the optimum Anomalure, a type of flying squirrel. time to visit. Breakfast will mostly be taken early (7am or earlier). Due to the high midday temperatures we plan to do There are many other great birding opportunities around the morning and late afternoon excursions, with time off in national park. One such site holds Rock Pratincole and between to siesta. Basic fitness is all that is required. Walking White-throated Blue Swallow. At others there are White- is mostly on the flat, but at Kakum there is a short uphill walk crested Hornbills, Fire-bellied Woodpeckers, Black-winged to get to the start of the canopy walkway. Seeing the Orioles, Blue-throated Rollers, Rufous-sided Broadbills, Picathartes involves a gentle uphill walk of 30mins, with the Oriole Warblers and Red-bellied Paradise-flycatchers. Our last section being short but steep. It is a long way from the local guide will help us make sense of the bewildering variety nearest town, so we will not get to our hotel until around 9pm. of greenbuls which include Little, Little Grey, Plain, Slender- billed, Yellow-whiskered, Golden, Honeyguide, Swamp Palm, ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Icterine, Red-tailed and Western Bearded. Full-board accommodation is provided, with two nights at the Golden Tulip Hotel, Accra, five nights at the Rainforest YELLOW-HEADED PICATHARTES Lodge, Kakum, one night at the Royal Basin Hotel, Kumasi, On day eight we will begin our journey north, a total travel one night at the Encom Hotel, Techiman and three nights at time of about 14 hours, but broken by two overnight stops. the Mole Hotel. Hotels are of a good standard, although Mole We will visit a nesting site of the near mythical Yellow-headed is the exception, with the a/c not working and hot water being Picathartes. Once feared extinct in Ghana, these birds are brought to your room. All rooms have an en suite bathroom. now protected by local villagers, and our presence here is a classic example of how ecotourism directly benefits local PRICE INCLUDES ….. people and the conservation of rare species alike. We can All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local expect great views as they bound over rocks and from vine to guides, full-board accommodation (starting with breakfast on vine. Once replete, we will continue our journey to Kumasi. 27th, ending with lunch on 8th), soft drinks at meal times, bottled water throughout, transport by mini-coach, reserve We will spend most of the next day birding in a patch of forest entrance fees, domestic flight and international flights. just west of the Techiman road. Blue-moustached Bee-eater is the foremost species; a range restricted bird which is WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED breathtakingly beautiful. Yellow-billed Turaco, Western Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. Nicator, White-tailed Alethe, Chestnut Wattle-eye and Red- An entry visa must be purchased in advance (currently £50). billed Helmet-shrike are amongst a myriad of other forest species. From here it is just a short drive to Techiman, our INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS next stop over. On day ten we will head north again, spotting Return flight from most UK airports to Accra (via Amsterdam) ever increasing numbers of raptors. Grasshopper Buzzard is using the scheduled services of KLM. Outbound flight departs very common, with Dark Chanting Goshawk and Beaudouin’s early morning, return flight arrives back early morning. Direct Snake-eagle also in evidence. flights with British Airways from Heathrow are also available, for a small surcharge. MOLE NATIONAL PARK Three nights at Mole National Park is a lovely way to conclude our tour, with easy birding and good mammal 13 nights including th th viewing opportunities. From our elevated position on top of a one overnight flight: 26 Nov. to 9 Dec. 2016 small escarpment we can watch African Elephants visiting the pools, whilst Red-throated Bee-eaters and Pygmy Sunbirds Principal leader: Paul J. Willoughby flit around at eye-level. In fact, the hotel is so nicely situated, you might feel tempted to spend the day right there, but this Local guide: provided by Ashanti Tours would be at the expense of a huge range of other birds which can be found in the dry woodland, riparian forest and Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader savannah. The list of species possible is very long and and a local guide includes Forbes’s Plover, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Northern Cost with discount Carmine Bee-eater, Abyssinian Roller, Orange-breasted (if you book before £3280 per person sharing th Bush-shrike, Black Scimitarbill, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, 13 August 2016): (£280 single supplement) Fine-spotted Woodpecker, White-crowned Robin-Chat, African Golden Oriole, White-crested Helmetshrike and Black- Full Cost: £3430 per person sharing bellied Firefinch. Any downtime can be spent relaxing on the terrace, watching the comings and goings of Elephant, Deposit: £600 per person

55 TAIWAN Illa Formosa - ‘the beautiful island’

The beautiful island of Taiwan is one of the easiest and friendliest places to Taiwan Yuhina and Taiwan Sibia watch birds in East Asia. Dazzling species are common in the open woodlands of the upland areas. Taiwan Blue Magpie, Grey-chinned Minivet, Flamecrest, Black-throated Tit and the wonderfully named Steere’s Liocichla (pronounced Leo-SIC-la) simply glow in the trees. All this is set against a backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery, as depicted in the familiar Chinese scroll paintings.

We have chosen this time of year primarily because of the weather. Taiwan gets a lot of rain, especially in the spring and summer when the “Plum Rains” fall. November is drier, when sunshine and clear mountain views are far more likely. In addition, at this time the resident endemics are joined by extra treats for western birdwatchers in the shape of some fabulous wintering birds. These include Red-flanked Bluetail, Eyebrowed and Dusky Thrushes and species that are difficult to see elsewhere, such as the endangered Saunders’s Gull and Black-faced Spoonbill. Another benefit is fewer leaves on the trees, so little gems like Taiwan Yuhina and Taiwan Yellow Tit are easier to watch.

Over eighty of the resident birds are endemic species or races and many of the latter are likely to be split in the near future. So we believe everything is worth a good look, as almost all birds are rare, local or special in some other way, providing high quality birding every day.

Taiwan is a safe, tourist-friendly country, with wonderful national parks, excellent infrastructure, a fascinating ancient culture and delicious food.

ITINERARY TAINAN A little further south is Tainan, our base for the next two CHANGHUA nights. From here we will visit Chiku, a wintering ground of From the airport we will go straight to a nearby hotel for the the very rare Black-faced Spoonbill; we can expect up to 300 first night. The next morning we will set off south to of these endangered birds. It is a good time of year to find Changhua, seeing our first Chinese Bulbuls, Red Collared- Saunders’s Gull alongside a wide range of wetland birds in doves, Pacific Swallows, Amur Wagtails and Long-tailed this area, including Great Knot and possibly Asian Dowitcher. Shrikes en route. Paddies are home to Oriental Skylarks, Eastern Yellow Wagtails, and Grey-faced and perhaps Yellow Tainan is the old capital, and we will no doubt see the Dutch Buntings. Nearby is Aogu, the largest zone of estuaries, fortifications, Confucius Temple and other famous local sites lakes, rice fields and fishponds in Taiwan. It is the best place as we travel around. to search for Eastern Marsh Harrier, White-winged Black and Gull-billed Terns, Intermediate Egret and Greater and Lesser GUANHUA Sandplovers. The sweet potato fields attract Pacific Golden On day five we will leave the developed coastline and head Plovers, and Red-necked and Long-toed Stints. inland to the mountains, via Kwantien Reserve where we will look for Greater Painted Snipe, Pheasant-tailed Jacana,

56 White-breasted Waterhen, and Yellow and Cinnamon be at the excellent Fullon Skenkeng Hotel. From here we Bitterns. At various sites in the foothills we will search for have a choice of sites. Where we go depends upon our Taiwan Hwamei and other specialities. guide’s local knowledge. There may be rare migrants to search for in Yeliu Geopark, for instance, or we can try to En route to Anmashan we will break our journey with an catch up on species we have previously missed. overnight stop at a top new site, Fireflies Lodge. An ex-hunter turned conservationist has set up an excellent small hotel Throughout the trip we will see many wonderful landscapes, near prime habitat. On our last visit, from his forest hides, we and experience the best of Illa Formosa, with its classic had fabulous views of Swinhoe’s Pheasant, Snowy-browed Chinese gardens, brash night markets, and fabulous temples. Flycatcher, White-tailed Robin and the almost mythical Taiwan Partridge. We hope to repeat all those sightings. CLIMATE AND PACE Around the same area we have found Striated Prinia, Olive- We can expect warm weather in the lowlands, but cooler in backed Pipit, both endemic scimitar-babblers and more, the uplands. Avoiding the hot and wet spring/summer, we making this a must-visit place. visit at the driest time of year. However, we should nevertheless expect some rain from time to time. Breakfast ANMASHAN will normally be taken at about 7.30am, with some optional During the ascent of Anmashan we will make birding stops, pre-breakfast forays. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full and perhaps take a tea break at Shihjhuo where they grow days will be spent in the field with short/medium length walks. the finest tea in Taiwan. There are some uphill sections and some steps, but these will be taken at a sensible pace and are optional. We have two nights in this superb upland area, where many of the endemic birds are found. We will explore bamboo ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD clumps, ancient forest with huge trees and stands of pine. At Full-board accommodation is provided with one night at the this time many of the small birds are in mixed species flocks, Gueylin Hotel near the airport, one night at the Guaulin Hotel, alive with colour and calls as they feed. We will look for Changhua, two nights at the Eva Hotel, Tainan, one night at Flamecrest, Taiwan Fulvetta, White-whiskered Laughing Fireflies Lodge, two nights at Anmashan Mountain Resort, Thrush, Taiwan Sibia, Taiwan Barwing, Taiwan Varied Tit, two nights at Hui-sen Forest Resort, and two nights at the Owston’s Bullfinch and the rufous-bellied race of Nutcracker. Fullon Skenkeng Hotel, Taipei. The accommodation is of a Eyebrowed, Pale and Brown-headed Thrushes usually winter high standard throughout. All rooms have en suite bathrooms. here. Food throughout is good quality Taiwanese, with some western alternatives at most places. Picnic lunches will be At higher levels we can expect the beautiful Johnstone’s taken some days, on others we will dine at restaurants. Robin, White’s Thrush and Vinaceous Rosefinch, plus have our best chance for Mikado Pheasant (we saw four on one PRICE INCLUDES ….. visit). This is where we will find the endemic Formosan All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local Macaque. Weather permitting, we may see the distant peak naturalist, full-board accommodation (starting with breakfast of Jade Mountain (Yushan), at 12966 feet, the highest peak in on 29th, ending with breakfast on 9th), soft drinks at meal East Asia. times, all entrance fees, local transport by mini-bus, international flights and airport taxes. HUI-SEN Our next stop, for two nights, is where we are very lucky to WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED have special permission to stay at a lovely University Study Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. Centre at Hui-sen. Surrounded by mid-elevation forest, we will keep our eyes peeled for the bright red endemic form of Maroon Oriole, Taiwan Barbet, Oriental Turtle Dove, Crested INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow to Taipei using the Serpent Eagle, Crested Goshawk and Japanese scheduled services of Taiwan’s national carrier, Eva Air. Sparrowhawk. Black Eagle, Silver-backed Needletail and Outbound flight departs mid-evening; return arrives back Fork-tailed Swift are all possible. early evening. An alternative is to fly from a regional airport with KLM (via Amsterdam), for a small supplement. Outbound In the pleasant grounds, the strange-looking Malayan Night flight departs mid-afternoon, returning late morning. Heron often stalks on the lawns and groups of Taiwan Blue Magpies feed undisturbed. Vivid Niltavas and Fire-breasted Flowerpeckers certainly live up to their names and, with a 12 nights including little luck, Brown Hawk Owls and Collared Scops Owls can be one overnight flight: 27th Nov. to 9th Dec. 2016 seen. Principal leader: Andrew Woodall Mixed flocks, often heralded by Grey Treepies, include Taiwan Yuhinas, Japanese White-eyes, Green-backed Tits, Local guide: Simon Liao Rufous-faced Warblers, Grey-cheeked Fulvettas, White- bellied Erpornis and Grey-chinned Minivets. Taiwan Barbets, Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader Daurian Redstarts, Red-flanked Bluetails and the crested and a local guide form of Coal Tit are all likely here. Nearby we will check a Cost with discount mountain stream for Plumbeous Water Redstart, Formosan (if you book before £3950 per person sharing th Whistling-thrush and Little Forktail. This is a very peaceful 13 August 2016): (£320 single supplement) place to stay, and some of the famous autumn colour from the maples may be lingering, along with a few hardy Full Cost: £4100 per person sharing butterflies, as it is quite sheltered here. Deposit: £600 per person TAIPEI On day ten we will drag ourselves away from the beautiful mountains and head down to Taipei. Our last two nights will

57 MYANMAR (BURMA) Burmese endemics and Spoon-billed Sandpipers in the ‘Land of the Golden Pagodas’

Burma, now known as Myanmar, finally opened its doors to the world in the Spoon-billed Sandpiper a early part of the twenty first century and visitors are once again able to enjoy the great treasures it possesses. In addition to its remarkable cultural heritage, it is, without doubt, the most ornithologically diverse country in South East Asia.

Our tour will take us birding among paddyfields, to lakes and the coast, and then on to the beautiful and remote forests cloaking Mount Victoria. Rarely visited by birders, it is home to the endemic Burmese Tit and White-browed Nuthatch. Close to Mount Victoria is one of Asia’s best kept secrets. Over two thousand temples on the banks of the Irrawaddy River dating from the 9th Century make Bagan one of the great archaeological wonders of the world.

The Spoon-billed Sandpiper is on the brink of extinction. Bird Holidays and ArcCona joined forces with th e Spoon-billed Sandpiper Task Force and BANCA (the Birdlife partner in Myanmar) to undertake conservation tours to its wintering grounds, where hunting has been identified as the primary cause of its decline. Ecotourism is playing its part in helping to save this wonderful bird. It provides work for local people, demonstrating the sustainable value of a living Spoon-billed Sandpiper compared to a bird trapped for the pot. We also supply our counts to the task force, helping in their vital work saving shorebirds in the East Asian Flyway.

Myanmar has a wealth of both natural and ancient treasures that has been off limits to travellers for many years. In time the country may lose some of its rural charm, but for now we are able to enjoy the unspoilt landscape.

ITINERARY 200 adults. We can expect to see this charismatic wader with the help of ex-hunters who have now become guides. Phil YANGON and our local guide, Lay Win, have more experience than We will arrive in Yangon in the afternoon and will go to the most when it comes to finding them. Phil has taken part in Shwedagon Pagoda, one of the most prestigious cultural three expeditions to find them in Siberia, while Lay Win sites in Yangon. An amazing area of lion statues and golden surveys wintering birds in Myanmar. spikes, the pagoda also hosts an extraordinary wildlife spectacle. Each day hundreds of drongos gather to roost and, Among the flocks of Lesser and Greater Sandplovers, we as light fades, millions of bats come out from the roof. Like a have found many Terek and Broad-billed Sandpipers, Red- column of smoke, the procession is spectacular and necked Stint, and Great Knot. Great Black-headed Gulls seemingly endless, with Peregrines, Kestrels and Black Kites stand tall amongst these. The next day we will return to the all trying to catch one for supper. coast for a full day to optimise our time spent in this important area. On day five, we will drive to Sane Let Tin and take a GULF OF MARTABAN boat ride into the Gulf of Martaban. This will allow us to From Yangon we will drive to Thaton for a two night stay. On explore the area better and walk among the birds over vast the way we will make the first of two visits to the coast. The areas of sand and mudflats, or paddle in shallow water. vast mudflats hold thousands of shorebirds, herons and terns. The Myanmar coast holds most of the remaining population of Spoon-billed Sandpipers, which is now perhaps less than

58 MOEYINGYI WETLAND browed and Nepal Fulvettas, Grey Sibia, Whiskered and On our journey back to Yangon, we will visit Moeyingyi Bird Stripe-throated Yuhinas, and White-bellied Redstart. Sanctuary, a huge lake with plenty of emergent vegetation supporting a rich variety of birds. Oxen plough the fields with From here, we return to Bagan for one night giving us plenty Asian Open-billed Storks in attendance. Drongos and mynahs of time to enjoy the birding and sightseeing around the ride on the backs of water buffalo, periodically darting out to temples again, before taking a flight to Yangon, connecting take insects disturbed by their feet. The lake itself is home to with our flight home. impressive numbers of birds and it is not unusual to see a thousand Pintail in the air, accompanied by Spot-billed Duck, CLIMATE AND PACE Garganey, Lesser Whistling Ducks and perhaps a Falcated In lowland areas the climate is mostly hot in the day and cool Duck. at night. At Mount Victoria it can be cold in the night with cool mornings at higher elevations. We do not expect rain but it is At dusk we will watch as thousands of ibis, egrets and herons possible. Breakfast time will be flexible to take advantage of fly to roost in nearby trees. Gorgeous male Pied Harriers bird activity and tide times. There is some uphill walking at gather along with Eastern Marsh Harriers. One year we Mount Victoria but at a sensible pace. Some of our wetland counted more than 20 of each! Striated Grassbirds, Yellow birding may be done from a boat if conditions allow, but we Bittern and Black-browed and Oriental Reed Warblers are will also be walking on the beach and mudflats in search of common in lakeside vegetation. Plaintive Cuckoos can be Spoon-billed Sandpiper. found and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters pick off stray insects. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD At night we will enjoy a dark starry sky at Moeyingyi, free from Full board accommodation is provided, with one night at the light pollution. The following day we may be greeted by a Pleasant View Hotel, Yangon, two nights at the Mya Nadi Black-capped Kingfisher, which regularly sits on the roof, Hotel, Thaton, one night at the Sane Let Tin, one night at the while wintering Siberian Rubythroats skulk in the Moeyingyi Resort, two nights at the Sky Palace Hotel, Bagan, undergrowth. We have plenty of time to look for Long-toed three nights at the Sky Palace Hotel, Mount Victoria and one Stint and Citrine Wagtail and watch Pheasant-tailed Jacana, night back at the Sky Palace Hotel in Bagan. All are of a Purple Swamphen and numerous Purple Herons, before medium to good standard, with en suite bathrooms. Meals making our way back to Yangon for the evening flight to are served in the hotels or at restaurants and cafes. Bagan. PRICE INCLUDES ….. BAGAN All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local Bagan is our base for the next two nights. Like Angkor Wat, it guide, full-board accommodation (starting with dinner on 11th, is one of the great wonders of ancient Asia. We begin by ending with lunch on 22nd), soft drinks at meal times, bottled birding among the thousands of temples and pagodas that water throughout, transport by mini-coach, boat trips, reserve hold massive golden Buddhas. Here we will focus on entrance fees and international flights. We pay a US$50 per Burmese endemics such as Burmese Bushlark, Hooded person fee towards a local former hunting community trust Treepie and White-throated Babbler. There are Blue Rock fund that protects the Spoon-billed Sandpipers in the area. Thrushes, Plain-backed Sparrows, Rain Quails and several Furthermore, Bird Holidays supports the work of the Spoon- bulbul species that will ensure we are kept busy. Laggar billed Sandpiper Task Force and are Species Champions with Falcons watch from the tallest temples, from time to time Birdlife International. spooking River Lapwings and Small Pratincoles over the Irrawaddy River. We will take a boat ride on this famous river WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED where we could see Sand Larks and White-tailed Stonechats. Travel insurance. Tourist visa (currently about £15). Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. MOUNT VICTORIA AND THE CHIN HILLS We will then drive to the lower slopes of Mount Victoria, birding along the way. Rural Myanmar has charming ox-carts INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS and horses, while motorised vehicles are still quite scarce. Return flights from London Heathrow to Yangon using the Indian Rollers, Smyrna Kingfishers and Brown Shrikes line scheduled services of Singapore Airlines. Outbound flight the roadsides, but White-rumped Falcon and Collared departs late morning, arriving back in the UK mid-afternoon. Falconet are more highly prized. Domestic flights from Manchester and other UK airports are available on this tour. See booking form for details. Mount Victoria is still relatively unexplored. The habitat changes with elevation from dry deciduous forest, through 13 nights including rhododendron to grassland at the peaks. We have three two overnight flights: 10th to 23rd January 2017 nights here in which to explore. Only recorded at this one site, the White-browed Nuthatch dwells among the mossy trunks Principal leader: Phil Palmer of highland trees. Two other nuthatch species also live here, sharing branches with endemic Burmese Tits. Many others Local guide: Lay Win such as Chin Hills Wren-babbler have restricted ranges, making this place very special. Wintering Siberian birds rub Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader shoulders with Himalayan species. There are and a local guide laughingthrushes, leafbirds and sunbirds. Minivets light up the Cost with discount canopy, along with various leaf-warblers. Niltavas flit through (if you book before £3990 per person sharing th the bamboo as waves of fulvettas, minlas and scimitar- 27 September 2016): (£290 single supplement) babblers pass by. The list of possibilities goes on and on, and includes Brownish-flanked and Russet Bush-warblers, Full Cost: £4140 per person sharing Mountain Bamboo-partridge, Spot-throated Babbler, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Blue-throated Barbet, Darjeeling Deposit: £600 per person Woodpecker, Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike, Blue-winged, Chestnut-tailed and Red-tailed Minlas, Rufous-winged, White-

59 SOUTH INDIA SAFARI the best of Kerala, Tamil Nadu and southern Karnataka

India and its diverse bird life is as vivid, colourful and memorable as Great Thick-knee anywhere on earth. We have planned this tour to show you some of the best wildlife of the sub-continent, in a relatively small area.

The Nilgiri Biosphere Region is an area of high bird endemism and is of global importance for wildlife generally, yet it is only now being fully appreciated by birdwatchers. This tour takes us to a wide variety of habitats within this zone. We will visit impressive stands of giant bamboo, dry scrubland, secret wooded montane valleys (sholas), lush tropical forest and farmland. They all have their own special birds. Indian wildlife can be surprisingly approachable and we are aiming for close views of waterbirds, nightjars, exotic forest birds, even ‘difficult’ specialities such as Painted Bush-quail and more. The butterflies are spectacular and animals abundant; we will see wild Indian Elephants and possibly twenty more mammal species.

We will experience the fascinating cultural backdrop of the Kingdom of Mysore; a stay in Ooty, the historical ‘Queen of the Hill Stations’; the quiet rural life and pristine protected wilderness. Also, the climate of the uplands is very comfortable at this time of year with warm sunny days and cool nights.

We have been leading tours to South India for many years and agree with the Tatler Travel Guide which rates Kabini Lake, Nagarhole as one of the top five wildlife places in the world.

ITINERARY Rose-coloured Starling and other open county birds. After two nights in Mysore we will head west to Nagarhole. MYSORE, CITY OF PALACES, KARNATAKA After an overnight flight we will arrive in Bangalore in the NAGARHOLE NATIONAL PARK, KARNATAKA morning. We will then drive down to Mysore at a relaxed Our drive to Nagarhole goes through rural areas which are pace, with lunch and some birding for common species on especially good for raptors. Black-shouldered Kite, Indian the way. One stop will be at a wetland near Kokkare Bellur Spotted Eagle, Pallid Harrier, and Crested Honey and White- where we will see jacanas, ibis, bee-eaters and raptors. eyed Buzzards are all possible. We will spend the next three When in Mysore there will be the option to see the famous nights at Nagarhole. Our excellent lodge by Kabini Lake often Amba Vilas Palace. has Taiga Flycatcher wintering in the grounds. Red-naped Ibis, Flame-throated Bulbul, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Malabar The next day we will take a morning boat ride at nearby Pied Hornbills, Malabar Flameback, Streak-throated and Ranganathittu Sanctuary for point blank views of the mixed White-bellied Woodpeckers, Indian Nuthatch, Asian Paradise heronry, Great Thick-knee and Mugger Crocodile. Indian Flycatcher, Oriental White-eye, White-bellied Treepie and Grey Hornbill, Stork-billed Kingfisher, White-cheeked Barbet Grey-breasted Cuckoo are amongst the wealth of birds in and and the handsome Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher are also drawn to around here. With over 250 bird species recorded there are this reserve. The afternoon will be spent nearby looking for plenty for us to find. Singing and Jerdon’s Bushlarks, Malabar and Rufous-tailed Larks, Ashy-crowned Finch-lark, Indian Roller, Indian Robin,

60 Nagarhole is now the best place in South India to see CALICUT, KERALA animals. On the boat trips and jeep rides regular sightings Our final night will be spent at a tranquil lodge by the back include Indian Elephant, Indian Bison, Indian Wild Boar, waters, where we expect to see Nilgiri Flowerpecker, Chital and Sambar Deer, Asian Wild Dog, Short-clawed Otter Brahminy Kite, terns, egrets and other common species. and the large, handsome Stripe-necked Mongoose. Bengal Tiger, Leopard and Golden Jackal are also seen but less On day 14 we will have a morning birding locally, then relax often. If there has been a kill then we have a chance of at our hotel until our evening flight home. seeing vultures and Tawny Eagle. CLIMATE AND PACE MUDUMALAI, TAMIL NADU It is reliably sunny and dry at this time of year, although it is On day seven we will head to Mudumalai. Our journey cooler at higher elevations. On the last night (at the coast) it through rural Karnataka has lots of interest: village scenes; will be hot and humid. On most days breakfast will be at 7am bird-filled marshes; and rocky outcrops; and so will take much so that we can go birding quite early, followed by midday of the day, with picnic and birding breaks. We will arrive at breaks. There will be a couple of optional earlier starts, such Masinagudi on the edge of Mudumalai National Park for a as for a morning jeep safari. Birding sessions will usually three night stay in a lovely, low-impact lodge run by a local involve short/medium walks, almost all on the flat. family. The rooms are simple but the atmosphere and Birdwatching at Cairn Hill may entail some gentle uphill surrounding wildlife have made it highly rated by visitors. You walking. can sit by the swimming pool to watch Chital Deer graze the grounds in the evenings, as Jerdon’s Nightjar and Indian Pitta ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD start to call. On one visit, a Sloth Bear came to drink from a Full-board accommodation is provided with two nights at the pond at the edge of the grounds. Crested Hawk-eagle, Grey Sandesh The Prince Hotel, Mysore, three nights at Serai Francolin, Jungle Bush-quail, Blue-faced Malkoha, Brown Kabini Resort, three nights at Jungle Hut, Masinagudi, two Fish Owl, Bay-backed and Long-tailed Shrikes, White-browed nights at the Taj Savoy Hotel, Ootacamund, two nights at Fantail, Yellow-footed Pigeon, Indian Blue Robin and many Vythiri Resort, Wayanad and the last night at Kadavu Resort, other species are present locally. White-rumped Shama can Calicut. All the accommodation is good quality, with en suite be uncharacteristically showy in the bamboo here and there bathrooms. We have chosen hotels known for their service is also a site for the now rare White-backed Vulture. and food which includes international/western dishes. Lunches will be at the hotels or, occasionally, a picnic. There are areas of open woodland and dry savannah-like bush where local guides will aid our search for the associated PRICE INCLUDES ….. birds, including Savannah Nightjar, Large Grey and Yellow- All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local billed Babblers, White-naped Flameback, Hume’s guide, full-board accommodation (starting with lunch on 24th, Whitethroat, Sykes’s Warbler, Blyth’s Pipit and, with luck, the ending with lunch on 6th), soft drinks at meal times, bottled scarce White-bellied Minivet. water throughout, local transport by mini-coach, boat trips, jeep rides, jungle activities, reserve entrance fees and OOTACAMUND (OOTY), TAMIL NADU international flights. Next we will travel by jeep up to this famous hill station, stopping en route at a hill village where the endemic Painted WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Bush-quail is regularly seen. Travel insurance. Cost of obtaining an Indian visa (approx. £90). Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. Please note: We will have two nights at Ooty. Part of the experience here the Indian authorities are planning to introduce a visa-on- is being in an appropriate hotel so we stay at the Savoy, of entry system in 2016. We hope that it will be up and running course, built by the British in 1841. It is a little faded but has in time for this trip, saving us all time and money. the feel of history especially in the wood panelled dining hall. Log fires warm our rooms at night if there is a cold snap. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow, Manchester or Glasgow At Cairn Hill we will birdwatch in the shola, a wooded valley to Bangalore, returning from Calicut, using the scheduled which is home to the highly localised Nilgiri Blue Robin. We services of Emirates. Outbound flight departs early afternoon, hope to see this, as well as the handsome Black-and-orange return flight arrives back early morning. Flycatcher, Nilgiri Flycatcher, Square-tailed Black Bulbul, Hill Swallow and other birds restricted to this particular terrain. 15 nights including Whilst staying at Ooty, we will visit Doddabetta, India’s two overnight flights: 23rd Jan. to 7th Feb. 2017 highest peak south of the Himalayas. We can drive to the summit where Black-chinned Laughingthrush is reliably Principal leader: Andrew Woodall found. Local guide: Satheesh K. Nair WAYANAD, KERALA From Ooty we travel down to Vythiri for two nights. We will Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader see a change of habitat, in an area of the mid-elevation and a local guide foothills rarely visited by birdwatchers. Around our fine lodge Cost with discount is some good tropical forest, giving us an opportunity to see (if you book before £3490 per person sharing th another range of birds. Malabar Whistling Thrush, Fairy 10 October 2016): (£290 single supplement) Bluebird, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Bar-winged Flycatcher- shrike, Forest Wagtail, Black-headed and Indian Golden Full Cost: £3640 per person sharing Orioles, Jungle Owlet, Orange Minivet, Malabar Barbet, Rusty-tailed Flycatcher and Southern Hill Myna are just some Deposit: £600 per person of the species here, along with a host of butterflies. Handsome Malabar Giant Squirrels are common here.

61 THE YUCATAN, MEXICO endemic birds of the Yucatan Peninsula in the vicinity of five spectacular Mayan sites

There’s so much more to the Yucatan Peninsula than the famous coastal Keel-billed Toucan resorts of Cancun and Playa de l Carmen. The region’s lush tropical forests, coastal wetlands, dry thorn scrub and beautiful beaches combine to make the Yucatan a premier bird-tour destination. The beauty of it all is that some of the best preserved habitats are found alongside some of the most spectacular archaeological sites in the New World. Hidden in the forests are countless Mayan cities and temples. On this tour we present you with a wonderful opportunity to visit the World Heritage Site at Chichen Itza, as well as Tulum, Coba, Uxmal and Calakmul.

The Yucatan is a region of high endemism and many bird species found here occur nowhere else in the world. Black Catbirds and Rose-throated Tanagers share the coastal mangroves with wintering American wood warblers. In the scrub of the arid northwest resident specialities include Yucatan Bobwhite, Lesser Roadrunner, Yucatan Wren and the tiny Mexican Sheartail hummingbird. Ocellated Turkeys still frequent the forests around Calakmul, as do Great Curassows and the arboreal Crested Guan. Other endemics we hope to find include the Yucatan Woodpecker, Yucatan Flycatcher and the gorgeous Grey-throated Chat. All in all this trip produces a wonderful mix of colourful North American migrants, typical Mexican birds and exotic rainforest species. It is not surprising to learn that we can expect to see over 250 species.

Our journey begins on the Caribbean coast at Tulum where turquoise seas meet sandy beaches. The tour then heads south-west to Calakmul, which lies deep in the rainforest near the Guatemalan border. Following the Ruta Maya we venture north to the shores of the Gulf of Mexico and the beautifully preserved structures at Uxmal. Finally we will then head back east to spend the final three nights at Chichen Itza. In each location we stay at hotels situated adjacent to the archaeological sites, enabling us to explore the sites at our leisure before the heat of the day.

ITINERARY mangroves also harbour Yucatan Vireos and a host of North American warblers. TULUM AND COBA On arrival at Cancun we will transfer to Tulum, our base for From Tulum we will visit the Mayan city of Coba. Here we will the first three nights. This is the only place on the low lying have a fantastic introduction to the forest birds of the Yucatan Peninsula with coastal cliffs. The picturesque Yucatan, as well as seeing a selection of well preserved remains of a once great Mayan city sit on these cliffs, temples, ball courts and stelae. At Coba Lake there are overlooking the turquoise Caribbean. Over these beautiful kingfishers, Anhinga, Pied-billed Grebe and Limpkin. There waters rise Magnificent Frigatebirds, Brown Pelicans and are also plenty of Morelet’s Crocodiles. Three sets of Royal Terns. The coastal mangroves here are perhaps the excavated ruins are connected by wide forest trails. Some of best place to find the endemic Black Catbird. Fruiting trees the more common birds include Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, attract Plain Chachalaca, Caribbean Elaenia and Rose- Spot-breasted Wren, Red-throated Ant-tanager, Cinnamon throated Tanager. Around the ruins we will search for Orange Hummingbird, Hooded Oriole, Black-headed Trogon, Groove- Orioles and Ridgeway’s Rough-winged Swallows. The billed Ani, Common Yellowthroat and Melodious Blackbird.

62 CALAKMUL Yellow-throated Warbler, Blue-crowned and Turquoise- The largest and one of the most important of the Mayan sites, browed Motmots and Hooded and Altamira Orioles can all be rivalling the magnificent Tikal in size, Calakmul was seen in the hotel grounds. discovered as recently as 1931 by Cyrus Lundell. Whilst at Chichen Itza we will make a day trip to the coast at Calakmul now stands deep in the jungle close to the Rio Lagartos, where there is a mixture of coastal lagoons, Guatemalan border. We spend four nights here to give us mangrove swamps and dune scrub. Here we can expect to plenty of time to explore the archaeological site and the see a long list of exciting birds including Brown and American surrounding forest. Large numbers of confiding Yucatan White Pelicans, Roseate Spoonbill, Black Skimmer, Laughing Black Howler Monkeys and Central American Spider Falcon, Crested Caracara, Yucatan Woodpecker and Monkeys inhabit the impressive rainforest. Alarm calls from Vermilion Flycatcher. Specialities include the Yucatan Ocellated Turkeys sometimes betray the presence of a large Bobwhite, Lesser Roadrunner, Yucatan Wren and an cat. Staff at the reserves visitor centre always seem to have endemic hummingbird, the Mexican Sheartail. regular sightings of Jaguar to report! After some final birding on the last morning we will drive to Birdlife is abundant along the forest trails which lead to the Cancun, arriving in good time for our flight home. former city's magnificent temples. Army ant swarms cross the tracks, attracting a host of birds including Mexican Antthrush, CLIMATE AND PACE Northern Barred and Ruddy Woodcreepers, Ovenbirds and Our visit is at the best time of year, when rainfall is at its Grey-breasted Chats. The raucous sounds of Keel-billed lowest and temperatures are at their most comfortable. It will Toucans echo around the forest whilst Bat Falcons hunt from be hot and humid in the middle of the day, but there is often a the tops of the ancient structures. A feature of this site is the breeze on the coast. Breakfast will usually be taken at 7am. good numbers of large birds to be found such as Ocellated On other days it will be later, to give us time to do a pre- Turkeys, Great Curassows and Crested Guans. Thicket breakfast walk. Due to the high mid-day temperatures we Tinamous occur close to our very comfortable jungle lodge, plan to do morning and late afternoon excursions, with time whilst Wood Thrushes, Indigo Buntings and Hooded Warblers off in-between to siesta. This is made all the easier as our come to drink at a woodland pool. hotels are very close to the birding sites. Basic fitness is all that is required. The Yucatan is very flat, and there will be Nearby we can visit a bat cave to watch the evening little uphill walking. departure of thousands of Mexican Free-tailed Bats. Overhead hundreds of White-faced Parrots fly to roost whilst ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD on one occasion a Collared Forest Falcon was attracted by Full-board accommodation is provided, with three nights at this bonanza of fast food. the Hotel Don Diego de la Selva, Tulum, four nights at the Hotel Puerta, Calakmul, four nights at the Hacienda Uxmal, UXMAL and three nights at the Hacienda Chichen Resort, Chichen On day eight we will head towards our next Mayan site, Itza. All accommodation is of a good standard and all rooms Uxmal, our base for the next four nights. As at all the sites, have en suite bathrooms. Lunches will normally be at the there is good birding in the hotel gardens. Hundreds of pairs hotel, but at Calakmul we will take a picnic or eat in a of Cave Swallows nest in the ruins and Turquoise-browed restaurant. Motmots can easily be observed. PRICE INCLUDES ….. The forest holds a good selection of Yucatan specialities All birdwatching excursions with expert leaders, full-board including Yucatan Flycatcher, Yucatan Bobwhite, White- accommodation (starting with dinner on 1st, ending with browed Wren and Blue Bunting. Also found here are breakfast on 15th), soft drinks at meal times, local transport by Common Pauraque, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Green Jay, mini-bus, boat trip, site entrance fees and international flights. Scrub Euphonia, Plain Chachalaca, Black-cowled and Altamira Orioles, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Yellow-billed WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cacique, Singing Quail and Olive Sparrow. Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. We shall take a boat trip in the coastal mangroves at Rio Celestun. Birds we can expect include Common Black Hawk, INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights are from both Manchester and London Gatwick, Magnificent Frigatebirds, American Pygmy Kingfisher, using the charter services of a major airline. Outbound flight thousands of American Flamingos, Anhinga, Roseate departs mid-morning; return flight arrives back early morning. Spoonbill, Boat-billed Heron, Tricoloured Heron and Reddish Egret. Amongst the passerines will be Northern Waterthrush, Mangrove Warbler and Mangrove Vireo. 15 nights including one overnight flight: 1st to 16th February 2017 CHICHEN ITZA On day 12 we will move on to Chichen Itza in central Principal leader: John McLoughlin Yucatan, our base for the final three nights. This is perhaps the most celebrated Mayan site and one of the most Maximum group size: 8 clients with one leader or spectacular with its towering El Castillo pyramid and huge ball 12 clients with two leaders court. In the quiet corners of the ruins and in the gardens of Cost with discount our hotel where there are palms and fruit trees, birds are (if you book before £3690 per person sharing st abundant, especially early and late in the day. 21 October 2016): (£590 single supplement)

We hope to see Grey Hawk, Bat Falcon, Vaux’s Swift, Cave Full Cost: £3840 per person sharing Swallow, Collared Aracari, Masked Tityra, Lineated Woodpecker and Yellow-winged Tanager. Some of the Deposit: £600 per person special birds here include Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, Canivet’s Emerald, Yucatan Jay and the beautiful Orange Oriole.

63 NORTHERN INDIA a classic tour combining birds, tigers and the Taj Mahal

For anyone with a love of natural Bengal Tiger history, the chance to see a magnificent Bengal Tiger in the wild is an opportunity not to be missed. At the Project Tiger reserve of Kanha, there is an excellent chance of seeing these magnificent creatures, alongside numerous other animals and birds. Add to this a classic tour of Northern India’s Golden Triangle: Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, plus the delights of Bharatpur and the Chambal River, and you have the ingredients for a truly epic wildlife and cultural holiday.

The Chambal River is a great place to see Indian Skimmer, as well as Gangetic Dolphin and Gharial. At Bharatpur, our quarry includes Black-necked Stork, Eastern Imperial Eagle and Sarus Crane. In the semi-desert of Rajasthan we will look for Desert Wheatear, Indian Courser and White-capped Bunting. The forest at Kanha holds Red-naped Ibis, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and Indian Scimitar-babbler. The Amber Fort and Taj Mahal provide a distraction from the birding just long enough to give us an appetite for more birds. We will spend two nights in Delhi, three nights at Dholpur near the Chambal River, two nights at Bharatpur, two nights in Jaipur, one night at Raipur and four nights at Kanha, giving us plenty of time to find all these birds and more….

ITINERARY BHARATPUR DELHI On day six we will drive west to Bharatpur, and the Keoladeo Our flight arrives in Delhi a little before midnight, so it is good Ghana National Park, for a stay of two nights. En route we that our hotel for the first two nights is not far away. will visit the Taj Mahal at Agra, allowing plenty of time to walk around the grounds and inside this magnificent building. Our first full day will be spent birding at a leisurely pace in the vicinity of Delhi. In the morning we will visit the Yamuna River, Hardly needing an introduction, Bharatpur is one of the most with its abundant ducks, waders, herons, gulls and terns. Key famous bird reserves in the world. species include Indian Shag, River Lapwing, White-tailed Plover, Great Black-headed Gull, Brown-headed Gull, Rosy Walking along raised banks we can expect Bluethroats in Pipit, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Striated Babbler and Black- abundance, along with small numbers of Siberian breasted Weaver. In the afternoon we will visit Tughlaqabad Rubythroats and Smoky Warblers. Waterside trees hold Fort. Marshall’s Iora, White-browed Fantail, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker and Indian Grey Hornbill. Being such a well- CHAMBAL RIVER watched area, many nocturnal birds can be seen at their The following morning we will leave Delhi, travelling to daytime roosts. Local guides can show us roosting Indian Dholpur, south east of Agra, for a stay of three nights. Here Scops Owls, Oriental Scops Owls, Dusky Eagle Owls and we will take two boat trips on the Chambal River to see Spotted Owlets, as well as Jungle and Large-tailed Nightjars. Gharials, Muggar Crocodiles and Gangetic Dolphins, and we have a great chance of Bar-headed Goose, Asian Openbill, We will be hoping for a good monsoon prior to our visit which Indian Skimmer, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Great Thick- will allow thousands of Painted Storks and other waterbirds to knee and the globally-threatened Black-bellied Tern. Jungle nest. Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, Greater Cats are fairly common and we have seen several on recent Painted Snipes, Black Bitterns, Brown Crakes, Cotton Pygmy visits. Geese, Black-necked Storks, Common Cranes, White-

64 breasted Kingfishers and Citrine Wagtails are amongst the On day 15 we will fly back from Jabalpur to Delhi. We will get multitude of birds we can expect to see. Eagles are one of the back to Delhi mid-afternoon, giving us plenty of time to relax main attractions of Bharatpur, as they give fantastic views. at the beautiful Uppal Orchid Hotel before our flight home the Eastern Imperial, Greater Spotted, Indian Spotted, Bonelli’s next morning. and Steppe Eagles were all seen at close range on our last visit. CLIMATE AND PACE Winter in northern India is rather mild, with warm days and Bharatpur has suffered from a lack of water in recent times. cool nights. Rain is very unlikely, but early morning mist is not We are pleased to report that following a ruling in the Indian unusual. At Kanha it is likely to be hot in the middle of the High Court, there is a plan to supply water to the reserve day, when we will take a siesta. Breakfast will normally be through newly constructed canals, restoring this globally taken at 7am, except at Kanha, when an earlier breakfast is important site to its former glory. required before the 6.30am game drives. Long breaks during the day at Kanha will allow people to catch up on their rest. On day eight we will have a full morning at Bharatpur before There is no uphill walking of any significance. driving to Jaipur in the afternoon. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD JAIPUR Full-board accommodation will be provided, with two nights at To most tourists, the riches of Jaipur comprise its magnificent the Crown Plaza Hotel in Delhi, three nights at the Raj Niwas Amber Fort and the breathtaking gems and fine carpets on Palace, Dholpur, two nights at the Bagh Hotel, Bharatpur, two sale behind dusty shop fronts. We can also appreciate the nights at the Hotel Trident in Jaipur, one night at the Gateway stark rocky hillsides, beautiful lakes and exciting birdlife which Hotel, Raipur, four nights at the Hotel Baagh, Kanha and one combine to make the city a must on any visit to Northern night at the Uppal Orchid Hotel, Delhi. All accommodations India. We will spend half a day visiting the traditional tourist are of a high standard and all offer continental cuisine as well sites, plus two half days of birding. Desert Wheatear, Eastern as a wide choice of local dishes. Most lunches will be taken at Pied Wheatear, Long-billed Pipit, Grey-necked Bunting, our hotels. Indian Courser, Jungle Bush Quail, Sirkeer Malkoha and Rufous-tailed Lark are all possible. Opposite our excellent PRICE INCLUDES ….. hotel is the Jal Mahal, a large lake which holds hundreds of All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local birds including Indian River Tern, Marsh Sandpiper, guide, full-board accommodation (starting with breakfast on Temminck’s Stint and Greater Flamingo. 9th, ending with breakfast on 23rd), local transport by coach, soft drinks at meal times, bottled water throughout, all safari On day ten we will drive back to Delhi, stopping en route at activities (jeep drives, boat trips), all reserve and site the wetland oasis of Sultanpur. The reserve is centred around entrance fees, domestic flight, international flights. a jheel (a shallow lake surrounded by a raised bank) and hosts nesting Painted Storks as well as Sarus Crane and WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Spot-billed Duck. Black-shouldered Kites are particularly Travel insurance. Cost of obtaining an Indian visa (approx. common here. In the surrounding dry grassland and scrub we £90). Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry. can hope to find Indian Roller, Hoopoe, Crested Lark, Red- Please note: the Indian authorities are planning to introduce a breasted Flycatcher, Large Grey Babbler and Red Avadavat. visa-on-entry system in 2016. We hope that it will be up and Shrikes are a feature of the area, with Isabelline, Bay-backed, running in time for this trip, saving us all time and money. Southern Grey and Long-tailed all expected. The most conspicuous mammal here is the Blue Bull or Nilgai, a large antelope. There is also the chance of Small Indian Mongoose INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from London Heathrow to Delhi using the and Golden Jackal. scheduled services of British Airways. Outbound flight departs late morning, return flight arrives back mid-afternoon. KANHA Flights may also be available from other UK airports with We will then fly to Raipur where we will stay overnight. The KLM. Please contact us for details. next day we will drive to Kanha, birding on the way, arriving in time for lunch. 15 nights including We will spend four nights here, at the luxurious Hotel Baagh, one overnight flight: 8th to 23rd February 2017 on the doorstep of India’s premier tiger reserve. Game drives can be taken morning and afternoon, each day, by both jeep Principal leader: Andrew Woodall and elephant. They offer us the best chance anywhere in the world of seeing Tiger. We will, of course, also be birding, Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader looking out for the numerous species which inhabit the lakes and a local guide and forests. Oriental Darter and Red-naped Ibis are amongst the waterbirds. In the air there are Red-headed Vultures, Local guide: Babloo Khan White-eyed Buzzards, Crested Serpent-eagles and Changeable Hawk-eagles. In the forest we can hope to see Cost with discount Crested Tree Swift, Lesser Flameback, Small Minivet, Blue- (if you book before £3980 per person sharing th winged Leafbird, Orange-headed Ground Thrush and Black- 26 October 2016): (£525 single supplement) headed Oriole. During the game drives we can expect sightings of Red Junglefowl, Indian Peafowl, Woolly-necked Full Cost: £4130 per person sharing Stork, Alexandrine Parakeet, Verditer Flycatcher and Crested Bunting. Deposit: £600 per person

65 NORTH EAST ECUADOR mega diversity on the east Andean slope and Amazon

The east slope of the Andes, descending into the Amazon basin, is one of the most biologically rich regions on the planet. From the high peaks to the lowland rainforest, every change in altitude brings a corresponding change in birdlife. This includes some of the most endangered birds in the Neotropics, threatened almost entirely due to human pressure on the land.

Just ten years ago a trip like this would have been very challenging, with long journeys on bumpy roads and poor accommodation. An improvement in the infrastructure makes the logistics easy now. Short Bare-necked Fruitcrow journeys on excellent roads between beautiful lodges, under the expert guidance of outstanding local guides combine to make this a bird-filled holiday second to none.

Having arrived in Quito, we will head straight for Puembo Garden, a small family run hotel just east of the city. Being 1500 feet lower in altitude than Quito, it is the perfect place to spend our first two nights. From here we will visit Antisana Reserve, where Andean Condors soar over beautiful and unspoilt paramo. We will then travel east to San Isidro, crossing the Papallacta Pass where we will look for high altitude specialities in the polylepis woodland. Sword-billed Hummingbird will probably be the day’s highlight. We will then drop down to San Isidro, where a beautiful lodge is surrounded by cloud forest in the subtropical zone. After three nights here we descend further to Wild Sumaco, an outstanding new lodge built by birdwatchers. Situated in the foothills, the forest here is full of colourful tanagers, and time spent on the verandah is very productive, with a dozen or more hummingbird species visiting. Finally, we will travel into the lowlands, visiting the internationally important Yasuni National Park. Staying at the perfectly situated Napo Wildlife Centre Lodge, we will have five days to immerse ourselves in the diversity of the Amazon rainforest.

ITINERARY superb birding sites to visit en route, where we will look for Giant Hummingbird, Black-tailed Trainbearer, Giant Conebill, PUEMBO GARDEN Black-backed Bush-tanager, Masked Mountain-tanager and Our daytime flight arrives at Quito’s new airport late in the Torrent Duck. Birding is relatively easy here since the trees afternoon. Just 15 minutes from the airport, Puembo Garden are stunted and many birds are rather indifferent to our is a haven away from the traffic and noise of the capital. From presence. We will call in at Guango Lodge, with its garden full here it is an easy journey to Antisana Reserve, a breeding of hummingbirds, including Sword-billed, Mountain site for Andean Condor. As well as this iconic species, we Velvetbreast, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Tourmaline Sunangel can also expect Carunculated Caracara, Silvery Grebe, and Glowing Puffleg. Andean Lapwing, Ecuadorian Hillstar and Stout-billed Cinclodes. This is the only place in Ecuador that the rare CABANAS SAN ISIDRO Andean Ibis can be found. Views of the snow-capped Once at San Isidro we will be in the heart of the subtropical Antisana Volcano are breathtaking when the cloud lifts. zone, a riot of life where luxuriant vegetation competes for sunlight and every available niche is occupied by one avian On day three we will cross the Papallacta Pass and head gem or another. San Isidro is perhaps best known for the down the east slope to San Isidro. There are three or four ‘San Isidro’ Owl, an anomalous bird which has defied

66 classification. It looks somewhat like a Black-banded Owl, but Thrush, Oriole Blackbird, Fulvous-crested Tanager and Opal- there appear to be slight differences and that species only rumped Tanager. We can expect a good diversity of occurs at lower altitudes. We can expect good views of it mammals too, from Giant Otter to Red Howler Monkey and above our cabins as we walk to or from dinner. from the bizarre-looking Monk Saki Monkey to the unbelievably cute Golden-mantled Tamarin. Every morning the bird show caused by insects attracted to the lodge lights is a real treat. Jays, oropendolas, flycatchers, Five nights will give us plenty of time to explore the area, as woodcreepers, trogons, quetzals and warblers all come well as allowing time to wander around the gardens of the flocking out of the forest to this buffet breakfast which the lodge, photographing butterflies or simply soaking up the lodge unwittingly provides. After our breakfast, we can atmosphere of this beautiful place explore the trails or do some roadside birding, searching for the mixed flocks which are so characteristic of the area. Finally, on day 14 we will take the boat back to Coca, Elusive antpittas are enticed into view by the offer of a juicy connecting with a short flight back to Quito then our worm; a White-bellied Antpitta was the star last year. international flight home. Handsome Flycatcher, Golden-headed Quetzal, Olive-backed Woodcreeper, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Rufous-crowned CLIMATE AND PACE Tody-flycatcher and Black-eared Hemispingus add variety. In A trip of contrasts. The climate is temperate or sub-tropical in the evening we might be lucky to find Andean Potoo and the Andes, making the birding a pleasure, although rain is Rufous-bellied Nighthawk. An excursion to the Huacamayo always a possibility. In the Amazon it can be hot and humid. Ridge will add yet more birds, including Black-billed On most days breakfast will be at 7am, giving us plenty of Mountain-toucan and Green-and-black Fruiteater. time in the productive morning period. In the Amazon, breakfast will be at 6am since the mornings there are WILD SUMACO LODGE particularly important. There will be free time after lunch to This beautiful new lodge offers access to an area which was rest. The highest altitude we stay at is 8000 feet (just two previously difficult to visit. Just 2½ hours further down the nights), and while birding from here the pace will be very road we drop another 3000 feet and find ourselves in the slow. During the rest of the trip the pace will be fairly easy; heart of tanager country. Golden-eared, Orange-eared, there are so many birds that there is no need to rush around. Paradise, Magpie, Spotted, Green-and-gold and Golden Tanagers all compete for honours. A dozen or more ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD hummingbirds come to feeders and flowers by the verandah, Full board accommodation is provided, with two nights at including Napo Sabrewing, Wire-crested Thorntail, Golden- Puembo Garden, three nights at Cabanas San Isidro, three tailed Sapphire, Gould’s Jewelfront, Violet-fronted Brilliant nights at Wild Sumaco Lodge and five nights at Napo Wildlife and Ecuadorian Piedtail. The lodge protects important forest Centre. All are good to outstanding and have en suite which is home to Military Macaw, Gilded Barbet, Montane bathrooms and hot water. Lunch will normally be at the hotel. Foliage-gleaner, Lined Antshrike, Ornate Antwren, Ochre- breasted Antpitta, Blue-rumped Manakin and Golden-collared PRICE INCLUDES ….. Honeycreeper. After three nights here we will head down to All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local Coca in the Amazon basin. guides, full-board accommodation (starting with dinner on 15th, ending with lunch on 28th), soft drinks at meal times, NAPO WILDLIFE CENTRE LODGE bottled water throughout, local transport by coach, boat trips From the busy port of Coca we will take a motorised canoe and other Amazon activities, reserve entrance fees, domestic downstream for 2 hours. From there we take a side channel and international flights. and paddle along the Ananguyacu Creek to the lodge. Before we arrive at the lodge we can expect the first of many WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Hoatzins, and perhaps even a family of Giant Otters. Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry. The discovery of oil in the Amazon has put great pressure on the indigenous communities. The Anangu tribe has resisted INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from most UK airports to Quito (via Amsterdam) the easy money that oil would bring and instead has built a using the scheduled services of KLM. Outbound flight departs world class lodge on its land. Hunting and logging has been early morning, return flight arrives back mid-afternoon. banned and every local person is a stakeholder in this project, which aims to improve their lot whilst maintaining a relatively traditional way of life. What they have achieved is 14 nights including nothing short of miraculous. It is such a privilege to spend five one overnight flight: 15th to 29th January 2017 nights here. Each day spent here increases our appreciation of the amazing diversity, unsurpassed on the planet. Principal leader: Paul Willoughby

During our time here we will make morning and afternoon Local guide: Roberto Cedeno excursions along the various channels by boat as well as plus lodge guides exploring the seasonally flooded varzea forest and high- ground terra firma. NWC has perhaps the best canopy Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader platform in Ecuador, 120 feet up in a giant Kapok tree. We and a local guide can spend all morning watching Bare-throated Fruitcrows, Spangled Cotingas, Blue-and-Yellow Macaws, and a Cost with discount £4730 per person sharing multitude of other canopy birds and mammals. There are just (if you book before (£690 single supplement – nd too many birds to list in this area. Some 600 species have 2 October 2016): but £190 if you are happy to been recorded within NWC’s boundaries, but to whet your share at Napo Wildlife Centre) appetite we can mention Black-necked Red Cotinga, Zigzag Heron, Agami Heron, Blue-throated Piping Guan, Ladder- Full Cost: £4880 tailed Nightjar, Great-billed Hermit, Yellow-billed Jacamar, Black-fronted Nunbird, Long-billed Woodcreeper, Castelnau’s Deposit: £1000 per person Antshrike, Black-faced Antbird, Screaming Piha, Lawrence’s

67 SRI LANKA the best sites and best birds of the island

Sri Lanka is famous for the endemism Red-faced Malkoha of its plants, birds and other animals. Some 35 bird species have been given full endemic status, including the wonderful Red-faced Malkoha, Ceylon Blue Magpie, Layard’s Parakeet, Ceylon Swallow and Yellow-eared Bulbul. We have a good chance of seeing all of Sri Lanka’s unique species. The island also attracts some very special wintering birds, and is home to an array of fabulous butterflies, making it one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots.

For many years we have wanted to run a tour to this verdant, beautiful island, since the birds are special and most are easily seen. But we had been put off by a lack of good accommodation near some of the birdwatching sites. Now, after improvements in infrastructure, we are pleased to offer an innovative itinerary which includes the less well known but wonderful Wilpattu National Park, and a high level of comfort throughout. The lower elevations are hot and humid all year so good hotels make a real difference. For instance, Sinharaja is a fabulous rainforest experience which is made all the better for staying at a nearby lodge with lovely rooms and a pool in a beautiful hillside setting.

Despite its turbulent history, this island nation is now peaceful and quiet. On our tour we will encounter sacred temples, the welcoming Buddhist culture, outstanding landscapes, and architecture from the European colonial periods. All in all Sri Lanka promises a holiday full of spectacular, unique wildlife on a sun-blessed, tropical island with a varied cultural backdrop.

ITINERARY Painted Stork, Asian Openbill and more. Mammals possible include Asian Elephant, Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Wild Boar, WILPATTU Sambar and Chital Deer. There is also a chance to see After an overnight flight, we will arrive in the morning and Leopard. On our last morning we will take another safari head straight for Wilpattu for a two night stay. After lunch we drive, then transfer to Sigiriya after lunch. will birdwatch in the lodge grounds and immediate area for our first endemics and commoner birds, including Southern Coucal, the deep red Ceylon Swallow, Green Imperial SIGIRIYA Here there is more good birding right on our doorstep, so we Pigeon, Blue-faced Malkoha, Indian Pitta, Coppersmith and will explore the various local habitats during our three night Ceylon Small Barbets, Green Warbler and Purple-rumped stay. Some of the forest and edge birds we expect are Sunbird. Crested Hawk Eagle, Shaheen Falcon, Ceylon Grey Hornbill, Jerdon’s Nightjar, Crested Tree Swift, Indian Swiftlet, Ceylon Wilpattu is the country’s largest national park; located in a dry Woodshrike, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Dark-fronted and zone but with many wetlands. We have chosen to include Brown-capped Babblers, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Ceylon Wilpattu, over the more frequently visited Yala, since the park Green-pigeon, Orange-headed Ground-thrush and White- is much quieter. This allows for a more intimate experience naped Flameback. Along the way we may well find Toque with the birds and mammals that we come across. Our first Macaques, Tufted Grey Langurs and Sri Lanka Giant full day will include a game drive, with chances to see White- Squirrels, plus huge Land and Water Monitors. This area has, bellied Sea-eagle, Lesser Adjutant, Lesser Whistling Duck,

68 like all the sites, good paths in areas that our local guide knows well. The birding is consequently very enjoyable BLUE WHALE EXTENSION without being especially challenging. There is the option of a two night extension in Mirissa. Two boat trips out of this south coast town will give you the chance KANDY AND NUWARA ELIYA to see the largest creature that has ever lived, the Blue On day seven we will leave for the highlands, breaking the Whale, as well as four or five other species of cetacean. journey with a night in the World Heritage city of Kandy. Here we will visit the Buddhist Temple of the Sacred Tooth. Nearby CLIMATE AND PACE there is some fine birding where we will try for Brown Fish- The lower elevations are hot and humid, but it is cooler in the owl, Crimson-backed Flameback, Ceylon Scimitar Babbler highlands, where rain is also possible. Early to bed and early and Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher, amongst other birds. to rise is the comfortable way to see the wildlife. When the birds rest in the early afternoons so will we. Most breakfasts The following day will find us taking a relaxed, scenic route to will be at around 6.30am. Mornings and late afternoons will the Nuwara Eliya hill station and checking into the impressive, be spent in the field, involving short walks. There are a few colonial-style Grand Hotel for two nights. The town’s formal slopes, which will be taken at a sensible pace. There will be gardens at Victoria Park attract Yellow-eared Bulbuls and some free time to enjoy the lodges’ facilities, whilst the Ceylon White-eyes. It is also a regular winter site for the keener members of the group will waste no time since there striking Pied Thrush, Kashmir Flycatcher and Forest Wagtail. is birding on our doorstep throughout.

From Nuwara Eliya we will visit Horton Plains, a protected ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD plateau at 2000m. We know of sites in the cloudforest and Full board accommodation is provided, with two nights at grassland that do not require the usual hiking. We will search Palm Garden Village Hotel, Wilpattu, three nights at Sigiriya for Ceylon Junglefowl, Indian Blue Robin, Ceylon Whistling Village Hotel, one night at Suisse Hotel, Kandy, two nights at Thrush, Ceylon Bush Warbler, Tri-coloured Munia, Dusky The Grand Hotel, Nuwara Eliya, three nights at Rain Forest Blue Flycatcher, Ceylon Woodpigeon and Hill Swallow, with a Edge Lodge, Sinharaja, two nights at Kalu’s Hideaway, Uda chance of raptors including Himalayan Buzzard. Purple-faced Walawa and one night at the Gateway Airport Garden Hotel. Leaf Monkeys are often seen too. All accommodation is of a high/very high standard and all rooms have private facilities en suite. The food is good, with SINHARAJA regional dishes and western choices. Most lunches will be After our time in the highlands we will drive through some of taken at the hotels, with occasional packed lunches. the island’s most scenic countryside down to our lodge at 240m. Three nights here will give us ample time to discover PRICE INCLUDES ….. the delights that Sinharaja has to offer. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local guide, full-board accommodation (starting with lunch on 15th, Sinharaja Forest Reserve is the last tract of primary lowland ending with breakfast on 1st), soft drinks at meal times, tropical rainforest left in Sri Lanka. Ceylon Rufous Babblers bottled water throughout, local transport by mini-coach, jeep lead the colourful bird waves of Malabar Trogon, Red-faced rides, reserve entrance fees and international flights. Malkoha, Ceylon Crested Drongo, Orange and Small Minivets and more. Dazzling butterflies include Ceylon Tree Nymph, WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Blue Mormon and Ceylon Birdwing. Ceylon Blue Magpies Travel insurance. Cost of visa - obtained by a simple online often betray their presence with a loud call before they registration and payment of £20 (we can help if you do not appear. Gangs of Ashy-headed Laughingthrushes pass by, have access to the internet). Items of a personal nature, whilst Spot-winged Ground-thrush and Ceylon Scaly Thrush alcoholic drinks, laundry, tips. rustle the leaf litter. We will search for Serendib Scops Owl (which was only described in 2004), Chestnut-backed Owlet, Green-billed Coucal, Legge’s Flowerpecker, White-faced INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight to Colombo from either Heathrow, Manchester, Starling, Ceylon Frogmouth and Ceylon Hill-myna. Huge Sri Birmingham or Glasgow (all via Dubai) using the scheduled Lanka Giant Squirrels crash through the branches, whilst services of Emirates Airlines. Outbound flight departs early Kangaroo Lizards jump across the paths. afternoon, return flight arrives back late afternoon. UDA WALAWA On day 13 we will head to the southern dry zone. With two 15 nights including nights at Uda Walawa, we will visit the national park as well one overnight flight: 14th Feb. to 1st March 2017 as having time to explore the environs of our lovely lodge. In the park we hope to watch beautiful Orange-breasted Green Principal leader: Phil Palmer Pigeon, Grey-headed Fish-eagle, Indian Roller, Grey-bellied Cuckoo, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Blyth’s Pipit, Yellow-eyed Local guide: Chinthaka de Silva Babbler, and Jerdon’s and Golden-fronted Leafbirds. Maximum group size: 10 clients with one leader Barred Buttonquails are common but shy. Gender roles are and a local guide reversed and the females can often be heard singing in the Cost with discount late afternoon. Asian Elephants are numerous here as are (if you book before £3240 per person sharing Golden Jackals and mongooses. Nearby are sites for 1st November 2016): (£285 single supplement) Marshall’s Iora, Great Thick-knee, Indian Stone Curlew, Indian Little Nightjar, Indian Scops Owl, Jerdon’s Bushlark, Full Cost: £3390 per person sharing Oriental Skylark and Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark. Extension to 3rd Mar: £510 (£90 single supp.) On day 15, after a morning’s birding we will head back to Colombo, staying overnight in the smart Gateway Hotel by Deposit: £600 per person the airport, before our flight home the next morning.

69 UGANDA Gorillas and Shoebills…. need we say more!

Darkest Africa inspired epic sagas of discovery in the Victorian Age. Livingstone and Stanley’s quest for the Nile’s source filled newspapers. Reports of fearsome beasts meant that only the most intrepid explorers ventured into the bush.

Much has changed since those times. Uganda has enjoyed unprecedented economic growth. An excellent national park infrastructure gives economic benefits back to the local people. The country is now reaping great rewards as the true value of Churchill's ‘Pearl of Africa’ is recognised. Mountain Gorilla Few African countries can match Uganda's diversity of habitats, which are home to at least 23 Albertine Rift endemics among over one thousand bird species in an area of similar size to the UK! We have run several wonderful tours, with over 450 bird species being the supporting cast to intimate sessions with Gorillas and big game. The awesome Shoebill Stork, one of the continent's almost mythical species has played a starring role. We will visit the dancing grounds of Grey Crowned Cranes and see acrobatic Black Bee-eaters.

Despite Hollywood's attempt to portray the great apes as monsters, Dian Fossey’s work followed by Sir David Attenborough's TV encounter have shown a gentler side to the endangered Mountain Gorilla. To sit just feet from them and to see, hear and smell them is something that words cannot convey.

ITINERARY The next day we will take an early morning boat ride in LAKE VICTORIA search of African Finfoot. This is possibly the most reliable On arriving in Entebbe we will check into our hotel for one site on the continent to find one. Hammerkop and Papyrus night. In the morning we will drive to Lake Victoria and take a Gonolek are possible before we drive to Bwindi Impenetrable boat trip on her still waters. This provides a relaxed way to Forest National Park for a three night stay. look for African Pygmy Goose and Long-toed Lapwing while African Jacanas trot over lily pads. Malachite Kingfishers dart BWINDI by and Carruthers’ Cisticola, the first of several papyrus We will visit the higher elevation forest, one of the world's endemics, sing from the tallest stems. The star, however, is great natural treasures providing home to various endemic the enormous Shoebill Stork that breeds here. Later in the birds. Ten species of primate occur here including the day we will drive to Lake Mburu for one night. beautiful L'Hoest's and Blue Monkeys and, of course, the magnificent Mountain Gorilla. With a world population of just LAKE MBURU 880, Bwindi is one of just two places where they still survive. At Lake Mburu we should log Broad-billed Rollers, Marabou Our success rate of finding them is one hundred percent! Storks and Hooded Vultures, while Pied Hornbill and Ross's Tourist revenue is vital to the Gorillas’ survival. Our money Turaco are roadside birds. Wattled Plover and Red-chested provides education and medical facilities for the locals who Swallow feed among Defassa Waterbuck, Tsessebe and are proud of the park and welcome tourists. Villagers are Burchell's Zebra. Bare-faced Go-away-birds, Nubian even giving farmland back to nature, to increase Gorilla and Woodpeckers and Black-headed Bush Shrikes are found in bird habitats. Uganda is one of those countries where you the giant Euphorbia. Pedigree Ankole cattle belonging to the feel that conservation is working for both people and wildlife. royal family are also found here.

70 After a long hike we should, hopefully, find a party of Gorillas. a vehicle, due to the presence of large mammals. Basic Intimate views just a few feet away is the norm, but there is a fitness is all that is required. Walking will be at a sensible birding option for those not wanting to do the trek. In addition pace with frequent stops to look at birds. There is some uphill to tracking Gorillas, we will spend time searching for birds walking in hot humid conditions in the forest and it may rain along the trails that lead to a waterfall. We hope to see and be muddy. Rwenzori Sunbird, Long-tailed Barred Cuckoo, White-starred Robin, African Blue Flycatcher, Lhuder's Bush Shrike, and Gorilla trekking involves a strenuous uphill walk in hot humid Green and African Broadbills. conditions, rewarded by about one hour with the Gorillas (the park has a better than 99% success rate). The length of the QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK walk is dependent on where the animals are that day but Leaving the forest on day six, we transfer to Mweya Lodge in usually lasts from 07.30 to 14.00hrs. There is the opportunity Queen Elizabeth NP, for two nights. Overlooking the Kazinga to change your mind before trekking begins and get part of Channel, we can watch Elephant, Buffalo and Hippo. your permit fee refunded. If you are unsure about trekking conditions, please discuss it with us. Uganda Kob Antelope rut among scenic volcanic craters and in turn provide food for the famous tree-climbing Lions. Grey ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Crowned Cranes have a dancing ground here. Black-bellied Full-board accommodation is provided with one night at Sun Bustards rasp from termite mounds and Kurrichane Button Inn, Entebbe, one night at Rwakobo Rock, Lake Mburu, one Quail creep through the grass. night at Trackers Tavern, Rhija, two nights at Engagi Lodge, Bwindi, two nights at Mweya Lodge, Queen Elizabeth NP, two A boat trip allows us to see waterbirds at close proximity, nights at Chimp Guest House, Kibale, one night at Masindi which will delight photographers. African Skimmers flock here Lodge, Budongo and the last three nights at Murchison River and waders along the shore can include Caspian, Spur- Lodge, Murchison Falls. Hotels and lodges are clean and winged and Wattled Plovers. Water Dikkops roost by tree pleasant with comfortable rooms. Accommodation at Kibale is roots and Pied Kingfishers perch on the backs of Hippos. a luxury permanent tented camp. All rooms and tents have en Yellow-billed and Saddle-billed Storks are seen along the suite facilities. Lunch is usually packed. shore, while African Fish Eagles are abundant! PRICE INCLUDES ….. KIBALE FOREST All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local Transferring to Fort Portal for two nights, we will visit Kibale guide, full-board accommodation (starting with breakfast on Forest, an area rich in butterflies and primates. Chimpanzees 26th, ending with lunch on 7th), soft drinks at meal times, boat are numerous here. Over 350 species of birds have been trips, transport, park entrance fees and international flights. recorded, and we hope to find the elusive African Pitta. WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED BUDONGO FOREST Our optional travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. A walk along the Royal Mile allows easy access to the many Visa (US$50 on arrival). Personal items, alcoholic drinks, forest birds that may include rarities such as Scaly-breasted laundry, tips. The optional Gorilla permit (£330) should be Illadopses, Fire-crested Alethe, Yellow-browed Cameroptera, requested at the time of booking. Ituri Batis and Black Sparrowhawk. The next day we will head to Murchison Falls National Park, for a stay of three nights. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from London Heathrow to Entebbe, using the MURCHISON FALLS NATIONAL PARK scheduled services of British Airways. Outbound flight This beautiful area beside the River Nile has plenty of big departs early morning, return flight arrives back mid-morning. game and is the best site to find the amazing Shoebill Stork. Flights from regional airports with KLM are also available. On Phil's first visit in 2004 he became spellbound by this enormous grey bird with dark human-like eyes set in a Gorilla permits sell quickly so, to secure one, we strongly massive head dominated by a boat shaped bill! It remains his recommend you book as soon as possible. favourite bird.

On our third boat ride of the tour, we will explore the upper 14 nights including th th reaches of the White Nile, below Murchison Falls. We should one overnight flight: 25 March to 8 April 2017 see Nile Crocodile, Rock Pratincole and African Wagtail. Chin-spot Batis, Black Crake, Northern Carmine and Red- Principal leader: Phil Palmer throated Bee-eaters feed by our lodge overlooking the river. Blue-headed Coucal, Buff-bellied Warbler, Giant Kingfisher, Local guide: Alfred Twinomujuni Grey-crowned Negrofinch and Beautiful Sunbird are also here. A Bat Hawk regularly hunts golden Egyptian Bats in the Maximum group size: 12 clients with one leader evening. and a local guide Cost with discount On day 14 we will drive back to Entebbe, where we will take a (if you book before £4910 per person sharing th return flight home. 10 December 2016): (£540 single supplement)

CLIMATE AND PACE Full Cost: £5060 per person sharing Our visit is in the dry season. Hot days are the norm, but mornings in the uplands are cool and may be damp. Daytime Gorilla permit: £330 due at time of booking temperatures can be high, so early morning excursions are made to maximise wildlife viewing opportunities. In parts of Deposit: £1000 per person Queen Elizabeth and Murchison viewing is only allowed from

71 HOLIDAY EXTRAS TRAVEL INSURANCE

At Bird Holidays we believe that your safety is very important. It is a requirement, when booking your holiday, that you arrange travel insurance with Holiday Extras, or alternatively arrange a policy with another insurance company.

We insist that your policy must provide for emergency medical expenses (minimum £1,000,000) and must have a 24 hour emergency telephone number. The extent of additional cover, such as insuring your belongings, personal liability and cancellation cover is a matter for you to choose.

In order to arrange a policy with Holiday Extras, you should telephone 0800 093 1900 and quote AD205.

A summary of Classic Cover arranged with Holiday Extras Ltd and underwritten by Allianz Global Assistance is given below. This summary is ONLY intended to outline the cover provided, and cover is subject to change after production of our brochure. The certificate itself defines the cover and exclusions in precise terms. PLEASE READ IT CAREFULLY. Should you find that this insurance cover is insufficient for your needs simply return the original certificate within 14 days of issuing or prior to travel (whichever is the sooner). The premium will be refunded provided no claim has been made.

Please note: This insurance can only be provided for people who live in the United Kingdom.

Cover for the insured person:-

24hr Personal assistance - £250

1. Cancellation or Curtailment - up to £5,000 (£75 excess).

2. Emergency medical and associated expenses - up to £10,000,000 (£100 excess).

3. Loss of passport - up to £300.

4. Delayed possessions - up to £100 after 12 hours.

5. Personal possessions - up to £2,000 (£75 excess).

6. Personal money - up to £300 (£75 excess).

7. Personal accident - up to £5,000.

8. Missed departure - up to £300 (£75 excess).

9. Delayed departure - up to £60 (£20 for each 12 hours). Abandonment - up to £5,000 (£75 excess).

10. Personal Liability - up to £2,000,000 (£60 excess).

11. Legal Expenses - up to £25,000.

12. End Supplier Failure - up to £5000.

Losses must be reported to the police within 24 hours. Damage by a carrier must be reported to them before leaving the airport.

Reasonable care You are required to take reasonable care to protect yourself and your property and to act as though you were not insured.

Pre-existing Medical Conditions There are medical exclusions on the policy document. You will need to check these to see if you need to telephone the medical screening centre. The insurance document includes details of a 24 hour emergency telephone number. This service includes repatriation arrangements by air-ambulance where deemed to be medically essential.

Holiday Extras can also provide you with annual travel insurance. Please contact them for a quote.

72 BOOKING CONDITIONS

Bird Holidays is committed to a policy of fair trading and great care is Certificate. Where we are unable to do so for reasons of insolvency, an taken to see that you have a successful holiday. All of the arrangements alternative ATOL holder may provide you with services you have bought for your holiday are governed by the following booking conditions which or a suitable alternative (at no extra cost to you). You agree to accept that include your commitment to us and ours to you. In addition, your holiday in those circumstances the alternative ATOL holder will perform those involves the provision to you of various services by independent parties obligations and you agree to pay any money outstanding to be paid by and the conditions of their agreements with you are also referred to below. you under your contract to that alternative ATOL holder. However, you Our company name and registered office are Bird Holidays Limited, also agree that in some cases it will not be possible to appoint an 10, Ivegate, Yeadon, Leeds, LS19 7RE. alternative ATOL holder, in which case you will be entitled to make a claim under the ATOL scheme (or your credit card issuer where applicable). If YOUR COMMITMENTS TO US we are unable to provide the services listed (or a suitable alternative, 1. Payment - When you confirm your holiday you must sign a booking through an alternative ATOL holder or otherwise) for reasons of form accepting these Booking Conditions and pay the appropriate deposit. insolvency, the Trustees of the Air Travel Trust may make a payment to The balance of the holiday price is due 10 weeks before the date of (or confer a benefit on) you under the ATOL scheme. You agree that in departure of the holiday. If the balance remains unpaid after this date we return for such a payment or benefit you assign absolutely to those reserve the right to cancel your booking, retain the deposit you have paid Trustees any claims which you have or may have arising out of or relating and invoice you for any consequential losses. to the non-provision of the services, including any claim against us (or your credit card issuer where applicable). You also agree that any such 2. Cancellation by you - The deposit is paid to us as a sign of your claims may be re-assigned to another body, if that other body has paid willingness to utilise travel arrangements and accommodation which we sums you have claimed under the ATOL scheme. reserve on your behalf. Should you, or any member of your booking, be forced to cancel your holiday reservation you must do so in writing and 12. Bookings are accepted after receipt of the completed booking form this must be signed by the person who signed the booking form. The and appropriate deposit and after confirmation of the booking has been cancellation will take effect from the date that written notice was received sent to you. The company reserves the right to decline any booking at our office. All cancellations are subject to a charge (payable by the without explanation. person who signed the booking form) based on estimated losses and 13. Alterations by us - We will do our utmost to provide the holiday calculated as follows. For cancellations received more than 10 weeks arrangements that have been confirmed, but we must reserve the right to before departure the deposit and any shuttle flight paid for is forfeited. For modify or cancel any holiday, flight schedule, accommodation or cancellations received 10 to 4 weeks before departure 80% of the total arrangement if unforeseen circumstances amounting to force majeure cost is forfeited. For cancellations received less than 4 weeks before arise. In such circumstances we will inform you as soon as possible and, departure the total cost is forfeited. should the change be such that it alters the nature of the holiday, we shall 3. Alterations by you - The following sets out any charges applicable for offer you the choice of an alternative holiday or a full refund. changes you may decide to make to your holiday reservation once you 14. Price Guarantee - The prices in this brochure are based on the have let us have your booking form and deposit. In all cases you must foreign currency exchange rates, tariffs and other costs prevailing at 4th notify us of your wishes in writing: August 2015. Exchange rates are those quoted in the Financial Times on (a) A change of holiday within 10 weeks of departure will be treated as a 4th August 2015. We reserve the right to pass on any increases in costs cancellation and charges will be levied as set out in Paragraph 2. above. after this date, although we will try to absorb them. Increases due to (b) If you wish to make any other alteration to your booking you will be currency fluctuations and flying cost arising after the date of the final charged an alteration fee of £25 per person, plus any consequential costs invoice will be absorbed by ourselves. In return for this guarantee, no we incur. refund will be granted if the Pound rises above the 4th August 2015 rate. 4. Travel Insurance- It is a requirement, when booking your holiday, that you arrange travel insurance with Holiday Extras or an alternative 15. Group Size - We reserve the right to exceed the maximum group size insurance provider. This insurance must provide for emergency medical by one person in cases where there is only one place left on the holiday expenses (minimum £1,000,000) and must have a 24 hour emergency and a couple wish to book. telephone number. 16. Tour Leaders - Whilst we shall make every effort to keep the principal 5. A booking on a shared-room basis is only accepted on the leader and/or local guide secured for a tour, we reserve the right to understanding that if a same-sex room mate cannot be matched then you substitute another leader/local guide if due to ill health or for any other will be required to accept a single room and pay the appropriate single reason the advertised leader/local guide is unavailable. Where two supplement. This requirement is waived if you book more than three leaders are given in the brochure but the number of bookings justifies only months prior to departure. Rooms are allocated in the order at which one, we reserve the right to use just one. bookings are received. No smoking is allowed in these rooms. 17. Whilst we do our best to operate programmes as advertised we 6. On a holiday of this nature it is necessary that you abide by the reserve the right to make changes to itineraries in the interests of safety authority of the leader who represents us. Signing our booking form and for the general well-being of clients, or, more often, to take advantage signifies your agreement to this. If you commit an illegal act when on the of local bird information. Where the holiday includes a cruise ship, holiday, or if in the opinion of the leader your behaviour is detrimental to itineraries are subject to change due to weather, sea ice conditions, and the safety and welfare of the group as a whole, he may dismiss you from various other circumstances outside our control, and at the discretion of the holiday without the right to any refund. the ship’s captain. 7. We strongly condemn the collecting of any living specimens from the 18. Tour Cancellation and Departure Guarantee - We reserve the right natural world. We empower all of our leaders with the right to dismiss any not to operate a tour on which there are insufficient bookings 10 weeks member of a group insisting on collecting plant, insect or other living before departure. Full payment will be refunded. We will also either send material, as well as unduly or repeatedly disturbing a bird from its nest, you a cheque for £50 per person or, if you prefer, give a discount on a roost or feeding site. A person dismissed in this way shall have no cause future booking of 5% (maximum £250) per person. This guarantee only for complaint or refund and shall bear all the extra expenses of his/her applies to bookings that have been accepted by us, where a booking return home. confirmation has been issued. 8. We operate a no smoking policy in the vehicle, at meal times, close to 19. Our Liabilities to you - Our tours visit remote places with often rough other group members in the field, and in shared accommodation as in 5. terrain. You may be several hours away from medical support. Your above. None of our principal leaders smoke. booking is accepted on the understanding of this and that you come on the holiday entirely at your own risk. It is not possible for us to be 9. All baggage and personal belongings are at all times at the passenger’s responsible for the actions or omissions of those involved in your holiday own risk. over whom we have no direct control, such as employees of airlines, hotels and transport undertakings. Naturally we cannot assume 10. The passenger is responsible for ensuring that all travel documents responsibility for loss or expense due to war, riots, strikes, terrorist (eg. Passport, Visa etc.) are valid and effective. activities or natural disaster. This does not affect your statutory rights. OUR COMMITMENTS TO YOU 20. Bookings are accepted subject to the transport conditions and 11. Consumer Protection - We hold an Air Travel Organiser’s License regulations of the carriers and to the laws of the countries in which such issued by the Civil Aviation Authority (ATOL number 5546). When you buy carriage is required. an ATOL protected flight inclusive holiday from us, you will receive an 21. In the unlikely event of a complaint, please refer to your leader. If the ATOL Certificate. This lists what is financially protected, where you can problem cannot be resolved, please place your complaint in writing to this get information on what this means for you and who to contact if things go office within 28 days of the end of the tour. All complaints will be dealt with wrong. We will provide you with the services listed on the ATOL promptly.

73 OUR PRINCIPAL TOUR LEADERS

PAUL J. WILLOUGHBY He has a wide range of natural history interests besides birds, including plants, geology and, in particular, fungi. Paul is a director of Bird Holidays and a principal tour Andrew's command of Spanish makes him an ideal tour leader, having originally set up Flamingo Holidays in leader for Spain as well as Central and South America. 1990. Twenty four years of tour leading have left him no less enthusiastic about birds or travel. Since 1992, Andy has led 132 tours to 38 different destinations. In 2016 he will lead trips to Ethiopia, For many years Paul was dedicated to local patch Trinidad and Tobago, Belize, Bhutan, Coto Donana, birding, spending all his spare time at Flamborough Madeira, Malawi, Taiwan, S India (2017) and N India Head in East Yorkshire. More recently, family and work (2017). commitments have taken over, but he still keeps his ‘eye in’ by spending about 80 days a year birding PHIL PALMER abroad! Phil joined our team in 2000 as one of our principal tour Very little escapes Paul in the field and his friendly and leaders. relaxed manner ensures that all members of the group will have an enjoyable and rewarding holiday. He is well known for his photographs and articles that have appeared in many birding magazines. He is very Since 1990, Paul has led 170 tours to 47 different well travelled and amongst the highlights of his destinations. In 2016 Paul will be leading tours to expeditions was a trip to Peru on which he re- Ecuador, Belize, SW Turkey, Finland, N Spain, discovered two bird species not seen for many years Madagascar, and Ghana, as well as trips for local bird and photographed a species new to science. He is a clubs. key member of the Spoon-billed Sandpiper Taskforce and in 2004, 2009 and 2012 helped the Russian Arctic ROGER BARNES Academy and WWT to survey remote parts of their Siberian nesting grounds. When working in India over 30 years ago Roger visited Bharatpur and has been hooked on birds ever since. He was a council member for the Nottinghamshire Subsequently he has been on gruelling conservation Wildlife Trust and chairman of their reserves committee expeditions to South America and Africa, and his high until quite recently. For the past 20 years he has been point was rediscovering the Helmeted Woodpecker in involved in a project studying Nightjars. He is author of Paraguay. Nowadays he prefers the gentler pace and ‘First for Britain and Ireland’, the best selling book at relative luxury of organised tours. the 2000 British Bird Fair. Since 2000, Phil has led 101 tours to 45 different He has published papers on bird and mammal destinations. In 2016 he will be leading our trips to Sri conservation, and his illustration work includes the Lanka, Latvia, Bali, Okavango, South Africa, Myanmar Bradt guide to Ethiopia. (2017) and Uganda (2017), as well as trips for local bird ‘All the logistical hassle of setting up tours exactly as I clubs. want is completely forgotten when I find myself with a group of fellow enthusiasts, watching breath-taking bird JOHN MCLOUGHLIN spectacles in some of the most beautiful places on John has been involved with Bird Holidays since 1996 earth.’ leading and co-leading our tours to various destinations in Europe, North and Central America. In 2009 he His relaxed, yet assured demeanour is one of his joined us as a full time leader. strongest points when away with our groups. His sense of humour, well, that’s another story…. He is very widely travelled with his passion for birdwatching taking him to many countries throughout Since 2000, Roger has led 102 tours to 31 different Europe, USA, Central and South America, China, India, destinations. He is slowly winding down, in a very Thailand, the Philippines, Morocco and Namibia. protracted run up to retirement. In 2016 he will lead a trip to Cuba, as well as several trips for local bird clubs. Amongst his favourite birds are the trogons and in particular the magnificent Resplendent Quetzal. ANDREW WOODALL However, he is equally at home sorting out confusing shorebirds. John has a quick eye and a natural Andy has a BSc Honours degree in Ecology and has talent for bird identification and enjoys sharing his taught Biology, Ecology and Ornithology at field centres observations with others. and evening classes. He went on to teach in schools, but left to become a full-time wildlife artist. After a Since 1996, John has led 53 tours to 20 different number of years of guiding in his spare time Andy took destinations. In 2016 John will lead trips to Oman, the quantum leap into full-time bird tour leading in Panama, Georgia, Greece, Estonia, Mongolia, the 1999. Falklands and Yucatan (2017).

74 75