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Oaxaca!And!Chiapas!

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Oaxaca!And!Chiapas! ! ! ! ! !! Oaxaca!and!Chiapas! ! March!17!–!April!5,!2015! Guided!by!Andrew!Spencer! All#photos#taken#by#the#guide# ! There’s!no!denying!that!Mexico!has!had!a!bad!rap!recently.!!Among!the!birding!community,! the!negative!news!coverage!has!drastically!decreased!visitation!the!past!few!years!to!what! was!once!one!of!the!most!popular!birding!destinations!south!of!the!border.!!And!while!the! concern!is!well!justified!for!certain!parts!of!Mexico,!the!states!of!Oaxaca!and!Chiapas!(as! well!as!the!Yucatan)!are!very!safe!and!make!a!wonderful!spot!to!visit!!!Not!only!does! Oaxaca!have!a!hefty!suite!of!localized!endemic!species!and!a!dizzying!variety!of!habitats! (and!thus!birds),!it!also!has!some!of!the!best!food!in!Mexico!(no!easy!feat!),!a!fascinating! mix!of!cultures,!and!worldPclass!archeological!sites.!!When!you!combine!that!with!the! extension!to!Chiapas,!where!the!birds!take!on!a!Central!America!flavor,!you!have!the! makings!of!a!great!trip.! ! Our!2015!setPdeparture!tour!got!to!sample!all!that!and!more!!!We!had!excellent!luck! throughout,!finding!nearly!all!our!target!species!without!too!much!trouble,!and!stumbling! on!a!number!of!harder!species!along!the!way.!!With!the!tour!timed!right!around!the!start!of! the!spring!rains!(which!we!experienced!a!bit!of),!the!birds!were!vocal!and!easier!to!find! than!during!a!dry!winter!trip.!!Votes!for!Bird!of!the!Trip!included!species!as!varied!as!BlueP throated!Motmot,! Rosita’s!Bunting,!and! Fulvous!Owl,!but!the! clear!winner!was!the! stunning!PinkPheaded! Warbler.!!In!the!end!we! scored!an!incredible! 498!species,!including! 41!warbler!species,!20! different!wrens,!and!10! corvids!! ! Day$1:$Teotitlan$del$ Valle$ ! Our!first!morning!in!the! Oaxaca!Valley!dawned! clear!and!cool,!and!filled! with!birds!!!Our!first! birding!stop!of!the!trip! was!a!45!minute!drive! from!the!hotel,!and!we!were!barely!out!of!the!car!when!our!first!endemic!popped!up!in!the! form!of!a!stunning!Bridled$Sparrow!$$We!got!to!watch!a!small!group!of!these!handsome! birds!at!pointPblank!range!for!a!good!ten!minutes!before!the!rasping!calls!of!our!next! endemic,!Boucard’s$Wren$drew!us!away.!!The!wrens!in!the!bag,!we!headed!back!to!the!car,! but!not!before!a!cooperative!Green$Kingfisher!distracted!us!for!a!short!viewing.!!! ! Working!our!way!up!the!road,!we!left!the!somewhat!disturbed!habitats!of!the!valley!floor! and!ascended!into!dense!thornscrub.!!As!most!of!the!Oaxaca!Valley!specialties!call!this! habitat!home,!we!devoted!a!good!deal!of!the!morning!to!birding!the!road!here.!!Noisy! White@throated$Towhees!were!very!much!in!evidence!throughout,!and!glowing!Black@ vented$Orioles!were!frequently!seen!all!morning.!!The!majority!of!the!song!in!the!area! belonged!to!more!widespread!species,!but!that!didn’t!stop!us!from!enjoying!the!many! Black@headed$Grosbeaks$and!Bewick’s$Wrens!that!made!up!most!of!the!dawn!chorus.! ! A!fortuitous!bit!of!speculative!playback!brought!a!response!from!one!of!the!hardest!Oaxaca! specialties,!and!a!bit!of!searching!soon!had!us!enjoying!spectacular!views!of!the!diminutive! Dwarf$Vireo!!!This!RubyPcrowned!Kinglet!lookPalike!can!often!be!difficult!to!find,! especially!when!not!vocalizing,!so!I!at!least!was!relieved!to!find!it!so!early!in!the!trip!!! Immediately!afterwards!another!endemic!vocalized,!and!it!wasn’t!long!before!Pileated$ Flycatcher!was!also!being!ogled!by!all.! ! Our!superb!luck!had!left!us!with!only!a!few!goals!along!the!lower!parts!of!the!road,!and!we! had!barely!walked!another!100!meters!down!the!road!before!the!hardest!of!those!goals! began!to!sing!nearby.!!Another! individual!began!singing!on!an! adjacent!slope,!and!after!a!good!deal! of!searching!and!positioning!we!got! the!best!views!I’ve!ever!had!of! Ocellated$Thrasher!through!the! telescope.!!! ! Continuing!higher!up,!the!habitat! began!to!subtly!change!as!taller!oaks! started!to!mix!into!the!scrub.!!Several! “Sumichrast’s”$Western$Scrub@Jays! were!seen!along!the!way,!but!our! main!target!in!this!habitat!was!a!bit! harder!to!find.!!Our!first!stop!gave!us! a!pair!of!Rufous@crowned$ Sparrows,!not!the!hoped!for!sparrow! species!but!still!nice!to!see.!!Just!up!the!road,!though,!we!scored!big!when!a!pair!of!Oaxaca$ Sparrows!came!zooming!into!the!tape!for!good!views!all!around!! ! Higher!still,!the!scrub!transitioned!into!pinePoak!woodland!and!a!different!suite!of!birds! became!apparent.!!A!calling!Elegant$Trogon!came!in!nicely,!while!mixed!flocks!had!goodies! such!as!our!first!Crescent@chested$and!Townsend’s$Warblers.!!Several!Greater$Pewees! called!from!the!tops!of!the!taller!pines,!and!a!nearby!Collared$Towhee$came!in!quite!well! for!a!good!comparison!to!the!more!abundant!Spotted$Towhees.! ! With!lunchtime!fast!approaching!we!started!back!down!towards!Teotitlan.!!A!last!birding! stop!at!a!small!reservoir!added!some!good!list!padding,!including!lots!of!Least$Grebes,!a! few!Ring@necked$Ducks!among!the!more!common!Ruddy$Ducks,!and!a!single!Common$ Gallinule.!!It!was!at!this!point!that!I!noticed!one!of!our!tires!had!gone!flat,!and!combined! with!some!other!vehicle!issues,!the!rest!of!our!plans!had!to!be!changed.!!So!it!was!back!to! Oaxaca!City,!where!the!rental!company!sorted!us!out!and!provided!a!new!van.!!While!this! did!mean!the!loss!of!our!afternoon,!we!went!the!rest!of!the!trip!completely!vehicle! problemPfree,!and!didn’t!even!miss!anything!for!the!lost!time!! ! Day$2:$Cerro$San$Felipe$and$Yagul$ ! Our!new!car!in!hand,!it!was!our!first!of!a!few!very!early!departures!to!head!up!to!Cerro!San! Felipe.!!Arriving!well!before!sunrise,!we!immediately!went!to!where!Tayler!and!I!had!found! a!Fulvous!Owl!a!few!days!before.!! Unfortunately!luck!was!not!with!us,! despite!good!conditions,!and!we!had!to! settle!for!a!distant!heard!only.! ! As!the!sun!started!to!rise!the!pine!forest! exploded!into!song.!!Most!of!the! cacophony!came!from!American$Robins,! but!a!few!Pine$Flycatchers$were!of!more! interest.!!Once!it!was!light!enough!to!see! details!we!started!down!the!road.!!It! didn’t!take!long!for!us!to!stumble!on!one! of!the!greatest!birds!in!all!of!Mexico!–! Red$Warbler.!!In!a!family!renowned!for! its!gaudy!members,!this!species!clearly! stands!head!and!shoulders!among!nearly! every!one!of!its!relatives.!!Needless!to! say,!it!was!a!good!way!to!start!the! morning!! ! Nearby!a!cooperative!Golden@browed$ Warbler!put!in!a!good!show,!while!a! somewhat!less!cooperative!Black$ Thrush!eventually!allowed!everyone! stellar!views.!!A!shy!Russet$Nightingale@ Thrush!hopping!down!the!road!tried!to! stay!just!around!the!bend!from!us,!but!a! bit!of!sneaking!on!our!part!soon!fixed! that!problem.! ! Our!main!goal!for!the!rest!of!the!morning! on!the!Cerro!was!a!certain!diminutive! jay,!and!with!that!in!mind!we!began! walking!back!towards!the!highway!in!the! hopes!that!covering!more!ground!would!increase!our!chances.!!The!jay!never!cooperated! unfortunately,!but!it!wasn’t!long!before!another!of!our!hoped!for!species!did!–!a!noisy!pair! of!Strong@billed$Woodcreepers.!!This!widespread!species!is!very!local!and!uncommon!in! Mexico,!and!the!form!found!on!Cerro!San!Felipe!sounds!radically!different!than!almost! everywhere!else!in!its!range.!!Surely!a!split!waiting!to!happen!! ! Continuing!down,!we!found!a!few!hummingbirds!at!some!flowers,!with!White@eared$ Hummingbird!dominating,!while!a!couple!of!Magnificent$Hummingbirds!were!found!as! well.!!Mixed!flocks!had!good!numbers!of!migrant!warblers,!including!Townsend’s$and! Hermit$Warblers,!along!with!residents!such!as!Crescent@chested$Warbler,$while!the! majority!of!the!empids!we!encountered!were!Hammond’s$Flycatchers.!!We!finally!found!a! single!Pine$Flycatcher!sitting!in!the!open,!though!not!everyone!got!on!it.! ! The!search!for!Dwarf!Jay!ended!with!some!good!views!of!Gray@barred$Wren!and!many! Steller’s$Jays$(of!the!bluePcrested!form),!but!none!of!their!dwarven!brethren.!!A!pair!of! Mountain$Trogons! rounded!out!the! morning’s!haul,!and! we!headed!back! down!the!hill! towards!Oaxaca.! ! After!lunch!we! headed!east!from! the!city!to!the!ruins! of!Yagul,!where!we! hoped!to!find!some! of!the!last!remaining! valley!specialties!in! the!dense! thornscrub.!!We!had! mixed!luck,!with!a! pair!of!Gray@ breasted$ Woodpeckers! being!very! uncooperative!and! seen!only!by!a!few.!! Several!Dusky$Hummingbirds!were!much!friendlier,!and!a!single!female!Beautiful$ Hummingbird!darted!in!and!out!from!the!mala#mujer!flowers!along!the!roadside.!!Amid! the!many!Chipping$Sparrows$along!the!entrance!road!was!our!first!Blue@black$Grassquit! of!the!tour.!$The!last!new!bird!of!the!day!was!our!only!White@tailed$Kite,!seen!from!the! road!on!our!way!back!to!the!city.! ! Day$3:$Cerro$San$Felipe$and$the$Matatlan$area$ ! Not!willing!to!take!no!for!an!answer,!we!again!awoke!at!some!ridiculous!hour!in!the! morning!to!return!to!Cerro!San!Felipe.!!This!time!we!tried!another!spot!for!the!owl,!and!our! luck!was!with!us!!!At!only!our!second!stop!we!almost!immediately!had!an!aggressive! response!from!a!pair!of!Fulvous$Owls,!and!we!were!soon!looking!at!them!–!at!pointPblank! range!!!Even!though!it!came!early!in!the!trip!it!still!ranked!as!one!of!the!highlights!of!the! tour,!and!made!the! early!mornings!more! than!pay!off.! ! It!quickly!became! obvious!that!this!was! going!to!be!a!lucky! day.!!Working!our! way!up!from!the!owl,! we!had!barely!crested! the!top!of!the!hill!and! the!nasal!calls!of!a! Dwarf$Jay!echoed! through!the!pines!!!It! wasn’t!long!before!we! were!looking!at!a!trio! of!these!typically!shy! species,!and!at! wonderfully!close! range!!!Over!the! course!of!the!next! hour!we!found!several! groups!of!the!birds,! including!one!where! they!were!skulking!
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