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Yucatan, 7 – 21 February 2016

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Introduction In February 2016 we made a two-week trip to the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico. This trip report presents the itinerary, the sightings, and some practical issues. The Yucatan Peninsula is an ideal birding destination. It offers a rich and diverse set of , fascinating Mayan Ruins, lots of other wildlife, beautiful beaches, and nice snorkeling opportunities. Travelling around is easy with a rental car. Roads are in good conditions, distances are small, and plenty of (affordable) accommodation and restaurants can be found in almost all places.

14 are (near) endemic to the Yucatan Peninsula, including 3 of which can only be found on Island. Some of these can be found throughout the peninsula, while others are more local. The Cozumel is thought to be extinct.

1. Ocellated - Meleagris ocellata 2. Yellow-lored or Yucatan - Amazona xantholora 3. Yucatan Poorwill - Nyctiphrynus yucatanicus 4. Yucatan Nightjar - Caprimulgus badius 5. Red-vented or Yucatan - pygmaeus 6. - yucatanensis 7. Yucatan - yucatanicus ...photo 8. Yucatan Wren - Campylorhynchus yucatanicus 9. Black Catbird - Melanoptila glabrirostris 10. Rose-throated - Piranga roseogularis 11. Orange Oriole - Icterus auratus 12. Cozumel Emerald - Chlorostilbon forficatus 13. Cozumel Thrasher - guttatum 14. Cozumel Vireo - Vireo baird

A number of endemic taxa might entail future splits. These include Rufous-browed Peppershrike, (Cyclarhis gujanensis insularis) House Wren (Troglodytes aedon beani), Blue-gray Gnatcatcher (Polioptila caerulea cozumelae), (Spindalis zena benedicti), and Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola caboti).

During our trip we saw 252 different species, including most endemics. Furthermore, we saw 10 different species, including a very unexpected and wonderful sighting of a Jaguar, and lots of butterflies and dragonflies. Pictures can be found on observado: Birds, , Butterflies, and Dragonflies. A lot of information about where-to-watch birds can be found on internet and in various trip reports. We used Observado.org and Ebird.org to get a better picture of where certain species are regularly encountered.

We hired a car from the airport in Cancun and stayed in different hotels and guesthouses, which we booked online prior to our departure. On Cozumel we hired another car for one day as this is much easier and cheaper than bringing a car from the mainland. In total the trip did cost 1320 euro per person, including 565 for flight tickets.

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Route Map 1 shows an overview of our route and the main places that were visited.

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Itenerary

7-feb Amsterdam – Cancun Cancun (A) Dogtown suites 8-feb Cancun - Rio Lagartos Rio Lagartos (C) Hotel villa de los pescadores 9-feb Rio Lagartos - Valladolid - Mérida Mérida (F) Casa Carmita Hotel & Spa 10-feb Dzibilchaltún, Progreso Mérida (F) Casa Carmita Hotel & Spa 11-feb Mayapan Ruins Mérida (F) Casa Carmita Hotel & Spa 12-feb Mérida - Uxmal - Campeche (H) Hotel Lopez de Campeche 13-feb Campeche - Calakmul Calakmul (I) Rio Bec Dreams 14-feb Calakmul Calakmul (I) Rio Bec Dreams 15-feb Calakmul - Bacalar - Felipe Carrillo Puerte Felipe Carrillo Puerte (J) Hotel Turquesa Maya 16-feb Sian Ka'an Felipe Carrillo Puerte (J) Hotel Turquesa Maya 17-feb Felipe Carrillo Puerte -Tulum Tulum (K) Airbnb 18-feb Tulum, Cenote dos Ojos, Akumal Tulum (K) Airbnb 19-feb Cobá Tulum(K) Airbnb 20-feb Tulum - Cozumel Cozumel (L) Hotel 21-feb Cozumel - Cancun Flight home

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Sites visited

Rio Lagartos This town on the north coast of the Yucatán Peninsula offers a variety of habitats and the opportunity to see a number of birds that are not easily encountered elsewhere such as White-lored Gnatcatcher, Yucatán Wren, and Mexican Sheartail. The latter species is easily found around the town and in the scrub near restaurant Chiquila, just east of town. American Flamingo’s can be seen from the boulevard and it is possible to take a boat tour as well. Birding is mainly done on a small road that leads to Granaderia San Salvador. The turn-off to this road lies a bit southeast of Rio Lagartos, a 7,7 km drive along Carr. a San Felipe, and just before the northern turn-off to Iglesia Católica De Las Coloradas. We found Yucatan Wren, Mangrove , Ferruginous Pygmy-, King Vulture, Painted and Lesser Roadrunner during a morning walk. Early morning, just before we arrived to the place, we saw a Tayra crossing the road.

Yucatan Wren Lesser Roadrunner

Mangrove Cuckoo Grey Fox

Around Mérida We found Mérida to be a convenient place from where the surrounding places could be visited. The first morning we went straight to Dzibilchaltún. This is a beautiful Mayan complex in a nice setting where many species can be found. There were only a few visitors early morning (they are not open before 8 o’ clock). Later during the day more tourists came in. The rest of the day we 4 drove along the coast, from Progresa to the east. Several waders can be found in the shallow lakes just south of the road, but nothing special. We searched in vain for Piping plover, a species that sometimes can be found in the salt pans here. The following day we visited the Mayapan Ruins, a nice complex which attracts very few visitors. We mainly had the place to ourselves the whole morning. We drove around on the secondary roads on the way back to Mérida and found a Lesser Roadrunner.

Uxmal

This is a large and beautifully sited Mayan Complex that offers plenty of opportunities for bird watching, especially early morning. We made an early start from Mérida, but opposite the entrance is also a hotel where you can stay. It lies outside the main tourist routes and hence is much quieter than other places like Chichén Itzá and Cobá. Cave Swallow breeds in large numbers in the complex. We spend the night in Campeche, a nice colonial town along the north coast, to break the journey to Calakmul.

Calakmul On our way to Rio Bec Dreams, we visited the Maya Ruins of Balamku just before the turnoff to the entrance road to Calakmul. We had this place to ourselves and found many birds in the afternoon. Our visit the next day to Calakmul was definitely the highlight of our trip to Yucatan. The ruin complex is very impressive, completely surrounded by forest and only visited by a handful of people. It is also a place where one can find many species that are not present on the Yucatan Peninsula. Rio Bec Dreams offers nice accommodation, close to the turn-off to Calakmul. They serve great food and we had a delicious Valentines Diner here. From Rio Bec Dreams it is about a 100 km drive to the ruins. The road is surfaced all the way and leads through pristine forests. Numerous birds can be found along this road and one should definitely make several stops on the way when bird activity is still high. Most birds around the ruins can also be found later on the day. We saw several Ocellated Turkeys, Great Curassows and Singing

5 along the way. Highlight of our drive was a Jaguar that crossed the road right in front of our car. We had splendid views of this rare and elusive mammal that is seldom encountered in this area.

Ocellated Turkey Yucatán Spider Monkey

Felipe Carrillo Puerte, Sian Ka'an The road that leads from Felipe Carrillo Puerto to Sian Ka’an is a popular place among birders as it offer easy access to good habitat and a number of specialties can be found along the road. The road into the area starts from Calle 63 (see map 2). The road itself is narrow and unsurfaced, but it can easily be driven with a normal car. Birding is done along the road. We found Yucatan Poorwill along this road at the town fringe. Yucatan Nightjar and Northern Potoo should also be possible here. Map 2 Where to find the road.

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Cobá

Coba is another wonderful Mayan complex. As it is close to Tulum and all the beach resorts there, it attracts a lot of visitors, but early morning and the more remote tracks gave us plentiful opportunities to enjoy the area without the crowds. Species seen here include Crested Guan, Rose-throated Tanager, and Ruddy Crake. A very obliging Mayan Antthrush gave great views and picture opportunities. Tulum is an easy place from which to explore the surroundings. We also visited the Maya Ruins of Tulum, but these were extremely crowded. Access to the beach can be difficult as the whole beach is built up with, most luxury, hotels.

Rose-throated Tanager Mayan Antthrush

Cozumel A visit to Cozumel is necessary for a number of endemic species and . A one day visit, including an afternoon and morning should be sufficient to find these birds. We chose to stay overnight, which gave us the opportunity to drive around and explore the island a bit more. A number of species, such as Yucatan Woodpecker and Black Catbird are more easily found on Cozumel than on the Peninsula. We spent the afternoon in the San Gervasio Ruins. The entrance fee to the ruins is very high compared to the fees one pays for visiting the ruins on the main land. The ruins are not really impressive and the place is mainly visited by large groups of tourist from the cruise ships that harbor in Cozumel. Yet it is worth a visit because a number of Cozumel 7 specialties are easy to find here. We found Western Spindalis, Cozumel Emerald, and the Cozumel races of Rufous-browed Peppershrike, House Wren, Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, and Bananaquit. We also saw a Cozumel Island Coati (Nasua nelson), a rare endemic taxa. We then drove along the southern part of the island, mainly for the scenery. We had diner at a nice beach restaurant and in the evening we found Northern Potoo and Yucatan Nigthjar at a site just south of town. In the morning we visited the scrubby area just north of Town. Cozumel Vireo was quickly found, as were Cozumel Emerald, Rose-throated Tanager, and Carribean Elaenia.

Cozumel Wren Yucatan Woodpecker

Cozumel Vireo Cozumel Emerald

Birds – A complete overview of all sightings, including detailed gps-information and some pictures can be found on the website Observado: http://mexico.observado.org/

1. Thicket - Crypturellus cinnamomeus Seen and heard at several places 2. Plain Chachalaca - Ortalis vetula Fellipe Carrillo Puerte road 3. Crested Guan - Penelope purpurascens Seen at Coba 4. Great Curassow - Crax rubra Seen at Calakmul 5. Singing Quail - Dactylortyx thoracicus Seen at Calakmul

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6. - Meleagris ocellata Common around Calakmul 7. Black-bellied Whistling Duck - Dendrocygna autumnalis 8. Blue-winged Teal - Anas discors 9. Lesser Scaup - Aythya affinis 10. Least - Tachybaptus dominicus 11. Pied-billed Grebe - Podilymbus 12. American Flamingo - Phoenicopterus ruber 13. Wood - Mycteria americana 14. - Eudocimus albus 15. Bare-throated Tiger Heron - Tigrisoma mexicanum One near Rio Lagartos 16. Black-crowned Night Heron - Nycticorax nycticorax 17. Yellow-crowned Night Heron - Nyctanassa violacea One on Cozumel 18. Green Heron - Butorides virescens 19. Great Blue Heron - Ardea herodias 20. Great Egret - Ardea alba 21. Reddish Egret - Egretta rufescens 22. Tricolored Heron - Egretta tricolor 23. Little Blue Heron - Egretta caerulea 24. Snowy Egret - Egretta thula 25. Magnificent Frigatebird - Fregata magnificens 26. American White Pelican - Pelecanus erythrorhynchos 27. Brown Pelican - Pelecanus occidentalis 28. Neotropic Cormorant - Phalacrocorax brasilianus 29. Double-crested Cormorant - Phalacrocorax auritus 30. Anhinga - Anhinga anhinga 31. Turkey Vulture - Cathartes aura 32. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture - Cathartes burrovianus 33. Black Vulture - Coragyps atratus 34. King Vulture - Sarcoramphus papa Two near Rio Lagartos 35. Western Osprey - Pandion haliaetus 36. Hook-billed Kite - Chondrohierax uncinatus 37. White-tailed Kite - Elanus leucurus 38. Snail Kite - Rostrhamus sociabilis 39. Double-toothed Kite - Harpagus bidentatus 40. Roadside Hawk - Rupornis magnirostris 41. Short-tailed Hawk - Buteo brachyurus 42. White-tailed Hawk - Geranoaetus albicaudatus 43. Zone-tailed Hawk - Buteo albonotatus 44. Grey Hawk - Buteo plagiatus 45. Laughing Falcon - Herpetotheres cachinnans 46. Collared Forest Falcon - Micrastur semitorquatus 47. Northern Crested Caracara - Caracara cheriway 48. Ruddy Crake - Laterallus ruber 49. Rufous-necked Wood - Aramides axillaris 50. Grey-necked Wood Rail - Aramides cajaneus 51. American Coot - Fulica americana 52. Common Gallinule - Gallinula galeata 53. Limpkin - Aramus guarauna

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54. Black-necked Stilt - Himantopus mexicanus 55. Grey Plover - Pluvialis squatarola 56. Semipalmated Plover - Charadrius semipalmatus 57. Wilson's Plover - Charadrius wilsonia 58. Killdeer - Charadrius vociferus 59. Northern Jacana - Jacana spinosa 60. Hudsonian Godwit - Limosa haemastica 61. Greater Yellowlegs - Tringa melanoleuca 62. Solitary Sandpiper - Tringa solitaria 63. Willet - Tringa semipalmata 64. Spotted Sandpiper - Actitis macularius 65. Ruddy Turnstone - Arenaria interpres 66. Sanderling - Calidris alba 67. Western Sandpiper - Calidris mauri 68. Least Sandpiper - Calidris minutilla 69. Black Skimmer - Rynchops niger 70. American Herring Gull - Larus smithsonianus 71. Gull-billed - Gelochelidon nilotica 72. Caspian Tern - Hydroprogne caspia 73. Royal Tern - Thalasseus maximus 74. Sandwich Tern - Thalasseus sandvicensis 75. Forster's Tern - Sterna forsteri 76. Laughing Gull - Leucophaeus atricilla 77. White-winged Dove - Zenaida asiatica 78. Common Ground Dove - Columbina passerina 79. Ruddy Ground Dove - Columbina talpacoti 80. Blue Ground Dove - Claravis pretiosa 81. White-tipped Dove - Leptotila verreauxi 82. Dove - Leptotila jamaicensis 83. Ruddy Quail-Dove - Geotrygon montana 84. Scaled Dove - Columbina squammata 85. Red-billed Pigeon - Patagioenas flavirostris 86. Olive-throated Parakeet - Eupsittula nana 87. White-crowned Parrot - Pionus senilis Two at Calakmul 88. White-fronted Amazon - Amazona albifrons 89. Yucatan Amazon - Amazona xantholora Well seen at Quintana Road 90. Brown-hooded Parrot - Pyrilia haematotis Two at Quintana Road 91. Groove-billed Ani - Crotophaga sulcirostris 92. Lesser Roadrunner - Geococcyx velox One near Rio Lagartos and one near Mérida 93. Cuckoo - Piaya cayana 94. Mangrove Cuckoo - Coccyzus minor 95. Ferruginous Pygmy Owl - Glaucidium brasilianum Common throughout 96. Vermiculated Screech Owl - Megascops vermiculatus One calling at Quintana Road 97. Northern Potoo - Nyctibius jamaicensis One calling on Cozumel 98. Pauraque - Nyctidromus albicollis Quintana Road and Cozumel 99. Yucatan Poorwill - Nyctiphrynus yucatanicus Quintana Road 100. Yucatan Nightjar - Antrostomus badius Cozumel 101. Vaux's Swift - Chaetura vauxi

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102. Green-breasted Mango - Anthracothorax prevostii Cozumel, San Gervasio Ruins 103. Cozumel Emerald - Chlorostilbon forficatus Cozumel, San Gervasio Ruins and north of town 104. Canivet's Emerald - Chlorostilbon canivetii 105. White-bellied - Amazilia chionogaster 106. Cinnamon Hummingbird - Amazilia rutila 107. Buff-bellied Hummingbird - Amazilia yucatanensis 108. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird - Amazilia tzacatl 109. White-bellied Emerald - Amazilia candida 110. Mexican Sheartail - Doricha eliza Common around Rio Lagartos 111. Ruby-throated Hummingbird - Archilochus colubris 112. Wedge-tailed Sabrewing - Campylopterus pampa 113. Black-headed - Trogon melanocephalus 114. Collared Trogon - Trogon collaris 115. Gartered Trogon - Trogon caligatus 116. Ringed Kingfisher - Megaceryle torquata 117. Belted Kingfisher - Megaceryle alcyon 118. Turquoise-browed Motmot - Eumomota superciliosa 119. Blue-diademed Motmot - Momotus lessonii 120. Collared Aracari - Pteroglossus torquatus 121. Keel-billed Toucan - Ramphastos sulfuratus 122. Yucatan Woodpecker - Melanerpes pygmaeus Particularly common at Cozumel 123. Golden-fronted Woodpecker - Melanerpes aurifrons 124. Lineated Woodpecker - Dryocopus lineatus 125. Pale-billed Woodpecker - Campephilus guatemalensis 126. Golden-olive Woodpecker - Colaptes rubiginosus 127. Smoky-brown Woodpecker - Picoides fumigatus 128. Tawny-winged Woodcreeper - Dendrocincla anabatina 129. Ruddy Woodcreeper - Dendrocincla homochroa 130. Olivaceous Woodcreeper - Sittasomus griseicapillus 131. Northern Barred Woodcreeper - Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae 132. Ivory-billed Woodcreeper - Xiphorhynchus flavigaster 133. Barred Antshrike - Thamnophilus doliatus 134. Mayan Antthrush - Formicarius moniliger 135. Greenish Elaenia - Myiopagis viridicata 136. Caribbean Elaenia - Elaenia martinica 137. White-crested Elaenia - Elaenia albiceps 138. Northern Beardless Tyrannulet - Camptostoma imberbe 139. Northern Bentbill - Oncostoma cinereigulare 140. Eye-ringed Flatbill - Rhynchocyclus brevirostris 141. Yellow-olive Flatbill - Tolmomyias sulphurescens 142. Stub-tailed Spadebill - Platyrinchus cancrominus 143. Tropical Pewee - Contopus cinereus 144. Yellow-bellied Flycatcher - Empidonax flaviventris 145. White-throated Flycatcher - Empidonax albigularis 146. Least Flycatcher - Empidonax minimus 147. Vermilion Flycatcher - Pyrocephalus rubinus 148. Social Flycatcher - Myiozetetes similis 149. Great Kiskadee - Pitangus sulphuratus

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150. Boat-billed Flycatcher - Megarynchus pitangua 151. Tropical Kingbird - Tyrannus melancholicus 152. Couch's Kingbird - Tyrannus couchii 153. Yucatan Flycatcher - Myiarchus yucatanensis Seen at different places 154. Dusky-capped Flycatcher - Myiarchus tuberculifer 155. - Myiarchus crinitus 156. Brown-crested Flycatcher - Myiarchus tyrannulus 157. Bright-rumped Attila - Attila spadiceus 158. Masked Tityra - Tityra semifasciata 159. Grey-collared Becard - Pachyramphus major 160. Rose-throated Becard - Pachyramphus aglaiae 161. Sulphur-rumped Myiobius - Myiobius sulphureipygius 162. Northern Royal Flycatcher - Onychorhynchus mexicanus Nicely seen at Chincanná Zona Arqueológica 163. Yellow-breasted - Icteria virens 164. Rufous-browed Peppershrike - Cyclarhis gujanensis Ssp insularis at Cozumel 165. White-eyed Vireo - Vireo griseus 166. Mangrove Vireo - Vireo pallens 167. Cozumel Vireo - Vireo bairdi North of Town, Cozumel 168. Yellow-throated Vireo - Vireo flavifrons 169. Philadelphia Vireo - Vireo philadelphicus 170. Yucatan Vireo - Vireo magister Ruinas de Tulum and Cozumel 171. Tawny-crowned Greenlet - Hylophilus ochraceiceps 172. Lesser Greenlet - Hylophilus decurtatus 173. Yucatan Jay - Cyanocorax yucatanicus Very common throughout 174. Green Jay - Cyanocorax luxuosus 175. Brown Jay - Psilorhinus morio 176. Tree Swallow - Tachycineta bicolor 177. Mangrove Swallow - Tachycineta albilinea 178. Purple Martin - Progne subis 179. Northern Rough-winged Swallow - Stelgidopteryx serripennis 180. Barn Swallow - Hirundo rustica 181. American Cliff Swallow - Petrochelidon pyrrhonota 182. Cave Swallow - Petrochelidon fulva 183. Yucatan Wren - Campylorhynchus yucatanicus 184. Carolina Wren - Thryothorus ludovicianus 185. House Wren - Troglodytes aedon 186. White-bellied Wren - Uropsila leucogastra 187. Spot-breasted Wren - Pheugopedius maculipectus 188. Long-billed Gnatwren - Ramphocaenus melanurus 189. Blue-grey Gnatcatcher - Polioptila caerulea 190. Tropical Gnatcatcher - Polioptila plumbea 191. Grey Catbird - Dumetella carolinensis 192. Black Catbird - Melanoptila glabrirostris 193. Tropical Mockingbird - Mimus gilvus 194. Veery - Catharus fuscescens 195. Swainson's Thrush - Catharus ustulatus 196. Hermit Thrush - Catharus guttatus 197. Clay-colored Thrush - Turdus grayi

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198. - Hylocichla mustelina 199. Scrub Euphonia - Euphonia affinis 200. Yellow-throated Euphonia - Euphonia hirundinacea 201. Olive Sparrow - Arremonops rufivirgatus 202. Green-backed Sparrow - Arremonops chloronotus 203. Black-and-white Warbler - Mniotilta varia 204. American Redstart - Setophaga ruticilla 205. Northern Waterthrush - Parkesia noveboracensis 206. Common Yellowthroat - Geothlypis trichas 207. Kentucky Warbler - Geothlypis formosa 208. Worm-eating Warbler - Helmitheros vermivorum 209. Louisiana Waterthrush - Parkesia motacilla 210. Ovenbird - Seiurus aurocapilla 211. American Yellow Warbler - Setophaga aestiva 212. Northern Parula - Setophaga americana 213. Black-throated Blue Warbler - Setophaga caerulescens 214. Hooded Warbler - Setophaga citrina 215. Myrtle Warbler - Setophaga coronata 216. Yellow-throated Warbler - Setophaga 217. Magnolia Warbler - Setophaga magnolia 218. Palm Warbler - Setophaga palmarum 219. Mangrove Warbler - Setophaga petechia 220. Black-throated Green Warbler - Setophaga virens 221. Blue-winged Warbler - Vermivora cyanoptera 222. Yellow-billed Cacique - Amblycercus holosericeus 223. Black-cowled Oriole - Icterus prosthemelas 224. Orchard Oriole - Icterus spurius 225. Hooded Oriole - Icterus cucullatus 226. Yellow-backed Oriole - Icterus chrysater 227. Orange Oriole - Icterus auratus Near Rio Lagartos and at Dzibilchaltun 228. Altamira Oriole - Icterus gularis 229. Bronzed Cowbird - Molothrus aeneus 230. Melodious Blackbird - Dives dives 231. Red-winged Blackbird - Agelaius phoeniceus 232. Great-tailed Grackle - Quiscalus mexicanus 233. Bananaquit - Coereba flaveola 234. Blue-grey Tanager - Thraupis episcopus 235. Red-legged Honeycreeper - Cyanerpes cyaneus 236. Blue-black Grassquit - Volatinia jacarina 237. White-collared Seedeater - Sporophila torqueola 238. Western Spindalis - Spindalis zena Cozumel 239. Yellow-faced Grassquit - Tiaris olivaceus 240. Rose-breasted Grosbeak - Pheucticus ludovicianus 241. Northern - Cardinalis cardinalis 242. Black-headed Saltator - Saltator atriceps 243. Greyish Saltator - Saltator coerulescens 244. Blue Bunting - Cyanocompsa parellina 245. Indigo Bunting - Passerina cyanea Felipe Carrillo

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246. Painted Bunting - Passerina ciris 247. Summer Tanager - Piranga rubra 248. Rose-throated Tanager - Piranga roseogularis Felipe Carrillo, Coba and Cozumel 249. Red-crowned Ant Tanager - Habia rubica 250. Red-throated Ant Tanager - Habia fuscicauda 251. Grey-throated Chat - Granatellus sallaei Felipe Carrillo and Balamku 252. Blue Grosbeak - Passerina caerulea

Mammals

1. Jaguarundi - Herpailurus yagouaroundi 2. Jaguar - Panthera onca 3. Grey Fox - Urocyon cinereoargenteus 4. Tayra - Eira barbara 5. White-nosed Coati - Nasua narica 6. Collared Peccary - Pecari tajacu 7. Central American Agouti - Dasyprocta punctata 8. Yucatan Squirrel - yucatanensis 9. Guatemalan Howler Monkey - Alouatta pigra 10. Black-handed Spider Monkey - Ateles geoffroyi

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