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Jean Troillet Ou Lesprit De L'aventure MONTAGNES MAGAZINE HORS SERIE Date : MAI 16 Pays : France Journaliste : Jean-Michel Asselin Périodicité : Annuel Page 1/6 interview ; L JeanTroillet JEAN TROILLET OU LESPRIT DE L'AVENTURE Avant d interviewer Jean Troillet j ai mis la mam sur ce livre que j avais conserve Jean Troillet, L'aventure absolue* Jean me I avait dedicace avec cette belle pensée « Bons reves et bons vents sur ces c/mes ou tes souvenirs rejoindront certainement 'es miens amicalement1 » Propos recueillis par Jean-Michel Asselin e tous ces souvenirs,j'ai garde cette n'arrêtait pas de me poser des questions Aujourd'hui, Jean a soixante-huit ans, il est rencontre apres son ascension de sur cette ascension A dire vrai, cela a ete né le lOmars 1948 à La Fouly en Suisse. Je lui Dla face nord de l'Everest avec un grand moment J'ai eu le sentiment ai demande si, comme il l'avait écrit dans un Erhard Loretan Une course folle qui I avait avec Erhard que nous touchions I au-delà livre, « à quatre-vingts ans, j'irai encore sur mené au sommet du toit du monde dans un Nous avions la conscience d'approcher un huit mille»! aller retour express de quarante-trois quelque chose qui nous dépassait, e était Non, c'est une aventure qui est désormais heures Même Pierre Béghin n'avait pu tres mystique » derrière moi Je suis pere de famille, ma fille suivre le rythme etfrene des Justine a quinze ans, mes deux Suisses Je reverrai jumeaux Jules et Alice en ont toujours ce grand geant aux onze et j'ai promis a ma femme, yeux bleus qui me racontait Mireille, apres mon accident les hallucinations qui l'avaient vasculaire cérébral (en 2011) habité lors de la descente, que je n'irais plus sur les huit accomplie en partie en glissant mille Je vis donc a la Fouly, sur les fesses, le 29 août 1986, dans une maison que j'ai bâtie quèlques semaines avant que a\ec des copains en quatre ans Reinhold Messner n en et j'exerce la profession de guide termine avec sa course aux et de conférencier Mon amour quatorze huit mille Les deux de la montagne est intact, et je hommes étaient restes une reste passionné par ces cinq heure et demie au sommet grands elements ou l'aventure sans oxygène « Je voyais les peut s'exercer la montagne, la rochers prendre de f teintes mer, l'air, les volcans et les extraordinaires puis j'aper- deserts J'aime toujours skier cevais des clowns surgis de sur les neiges du monde de la cavernes enfouies sous la Turquie au Canada, j'aime faire neige, il y avait aussi un trans des randos ou effectuer de belles formateur electrique sur un tiaversees en voiliei maîs il n'y nuage et des majorettes a pas que cette chaîne hima- traversaient mon corps » layennequimemotive J'ai vécu des moments extraordinaires là- L'exploit était magnifique, bas maîs I ambiance hima- et Jean se souvient encore de layenne a bien change, et je ne l'effet Everest « Au début, croîs pas que j'aimerais vivre ce je n avais rien a dire aux qui se passe aujourd'hui sur les journalistes, ou si peu ' grands sommets J'ai le sentiment J'étais parti me reposer chez qu'on a apporté la bas tout ce un copain en Thailande, je qu'on voulait fuirde laville Alors n 'étais pas presse de rentrer, qu'on devrait se battre pour mats je voyait bien qu'on proteger ce monde tres fragile Tous droits réservés à l'éditeur PAULSEN 1249977400508 MONTAGNES MAGAZINE HORS SERIE Date : MAI 16 Pays : France Journaliste : Jean-Michel Asselin Périodicité : Annuel Page 2/6 Jean Troillet au E LoretanetJ Troillet Shishapangma en 2009. au depart vers le Lhotse en 1994 Tous droits réservés à l'éditeur PAULSEN 1249977400508 MONTAGNES MAGAZINE HORS SERIE Date : MAI 16 Pays : France Journaliste : Jean-Michel Asselin Périodicité : Annuel Page 3/6 Tu as souvent évoqué deux valeurs : la liberté dans la tempête en train de UNE CHOSE DONT JE et l'indépendance. redescendre de 7 500 metres Oui, car j ai eu cette chance de pouvoir quand j'ai chute je suis SUIS TRÈS FIER, CE SONT vivre comme je l'entendais Mon épouse a passe sur le dos près de été formidable, je pou vais du jour au tende Pierre Alain qui n'a pu LES TÉMOIGNAGES main sauter dans un train parce qu'un enrayer la chute, il est parti a copain comme Laurent Bourgnon me son tour, quand j'ai enfin pu D'AMITIÉ QUI ME SONT proposait de traverser l'Atlantique arrêter cette chute, arc boute sur mes piolets, c'était PRODIGUÉS UN VISAGE Qu'est-ce qui est important dans l'aventure? inespéré Je croîs que, ce Avant tout ce sont les amis, quand je regarde jour-la, il y avait deux AMI EN FAIT NAÎTRE UN ce que j'ai fait, ce sont d'abord des visages, bonnes etoiles qui veillaient des amitiés qui apparaissent En réalisant ce sur nous et je me demande AUTRE ET RIEN NE PEUT livre* et ce film*, s'il est une chose dont je encore et encore comment suis très fier, ce sont les témoignages mon piolet a pu tenir ' REMPLACER CETTE d'amitié qui me sont prodigues Un visage ami en fait naître un autre et rien ne peut Le risque est toujours présent FORCE DE L'AMITIÉ remplacer cette force de l'amitié Bien en montagne, c'est un compa- évidemment avec l'âge je vois combien gnon indispensable? nombreux sont ceux qui ont quitte ce monde Personnellement, je n'ai jamais pensé à la lui aussi réussir ce challenge, avait la trop tôt II y a ce côte dur de la vieillesse qui mort, je ne vais pas en montagne pour cela pression des medias sur ses épaules Les fait qu'on enterre parfois des jeunes et cela, J'ai en revanche eu cette chance de savoir journalistes essayaient de jouer la-dessus ça marque, on ne peut pas se sentir bien renoncer Avant ma premiere réussite sur avec Erhard, il n'aimait pas du tout cela et quand on enterre quelqu'un de jeune un huit mille, le K2,j'avais essuye quèlques il se refermait complètement Pourtant la montagne m'a prépare à cela Je échecs, et j'ai toujours su qu'il fallait savoir me souviendrai toujours quand j'ai rejoint renoncer J'ai eu la chance que mon sponsor Vous aviez croisé Benoît Chamoux et Pierre Erhard, suite a l'accident qui avait coûté la ne me pousse jamais au-delà de ce que je Royer alors que vous redescendiez du sommet ? vie a Pierre Alain Steiner sur les pentes de sentais possible Quand je partais pour un En fait,j'avais repere à la montee un couloir la face sud ouest du Cho Oyu, juste après sommet, je lui disais toujours que j'avais qui allait nous permettre de redescendre l'Everest J'étais parti avec la sœur de seulement cinquante pour cent de chance de plus vite en nous laissant glisser sur les Pierre-Alain et son amie et c'était une réussir, que le sommet n'avait rien d'auto fesses comme a l'Everest Et du coup, on épreuve douloureuse Pierre-Alain était un manque Et mon sponsor avait eu cette était un peu lom des Français, on leur a fait être vrai, tres pur, qui avait beaucoup réponse « Ce qui m'importe e'est que tu des signes de ia main auxquels ils ont souffert dans sa jeunesse, et la, tout se rentres » J'ai pu voir combien la pression repondu Ce n'est que le lendemain que brisait J'aurais pu le croire invincible mediatique pouvait être dangereuse Au j'ai pu avoir une derniere conversation avec car nous avions vécu sur les pentes de Kangchenjunga lorsque Erhard accom- Benoît Chamoux par radio Ce jour de l'Annapurna une chute qui aurait norma- plissait son quatorzième huit mille, Benoît sommet, Erhard qui avait la cornée gelée lement dû avoir raison de nous Nous étions Chamoux, qui le talonnait et qui espérait s'est arrêté dans un camp intermédiaire, et moi je suis descendu jusqu'au camp de base normal, je savais que Mireille venait d'arriver1 Tu sais, le risque en montagne, il y en a autant qu'en bas quand tu prends la route entre Geneve et Lausanne, tu risques ta peau La difference c'est qu'en ville ou sur les routes on ne choisit pas En montagne on choisit et pour ce qui est des séracs par exemple, encore faut-il aller se mettre dessous i Et les alpinistes évitent ce genre de situation au maximum Quant aux pierres qui tombent, je dis toujours qu'on est bien petit en montagne et que les pierres ont quèlques difficultés a viser la tête des alpinistes ' Ce qui est risque, c'est l'exercice du metier de guide car on ne connaît pas toujours les capacites du client avec lequel on est encordé, et puis on est dans la routine Les seuls accidents que j'ai eus e ' est en étant encordé Avec Erhard, nous sortions rarement la corde, et c'était une question de rapidité et de securite, nous grimpions souvent de nuit avec cette idée Tous droits réservés à l'éditeur PAULSEN 1249977400508 MONTAGNES MAGAZINE HORS SERIE Date : MAI 16 Pays : France Journaliste : Jean-Michel Asselin Périodicité : Annuel Page 4/6 Au sommet de l'Everest en 1986.
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