Compromisso Com Um Plane Om Um Planeta Perpétuo
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Paragliders and Modern Alpinism
Paragliders and Modern Alpinism J o h n B o u c h a r d PARAGLIDERS OR PARAPENTES, as they are known in France, are the most radical development in alpine climbing since the ice-tool revolution in the seventies. Just as the new ice tools opened countless possibilities for more new exploits, paragliding is redefining the limits of what is possible in the mountains. Weighing as little as four pounds, they take up as much room as a small sleeping bag. They resemble the conventional RAM AIR sky-diving canopies, but they use a different material, airfoil and plan-form. Their rate of descent is around 600 to 900 feet per minute and so a 5000-foot descent can be made effortlessly in under ten minutes. For take-off you need a 30-foot-wide area which is at least 20 feet long and 18° steep. You lay the canopy on its back, arrange the lines, tie in, snap it over your head, run a few steps and you are airborne. A paraglider can also be used for bivouacs. During the last few years they have been the key element in arousing excitement for the enchainement or linking of more than one alpine wall. In the past helicopters were used to accomplish this and because of it few were interested. Christophe Profit used a parapente to descend the Walker Spur in his winter solo enchainement of the north faces of the Matterhorn, Eiger and Grandes Jorasses. Jean Marc Boivin used one to link in one day the Triolet, Courtes and Droites north faces. -
Pakistan 2000
LINDSAY GRIFFIN Pakistan 2000 Thanks are due to Asem Mustafa Awan, BMC, Bernard Domenech, Xavier Eguskitza, DavidHamilton, Sean Isaac, WaIter Keller, Klettern, Yuri Koshelenko, Jamie McGuinness, MEp, Pakistan Ministry of Tourism, Emanuele Pellizzari, Simon Perritaz, Marko Prezelj, Alexander Ruchkin, Adam Thomas, UIAA Expeditions Commission, Dave Wilkinson and Simon Woodsfor help withproviding information. t was a mixed season on Pakistan's mountains, not least on the 8000m I peaks. While not a single climber reached the top of Gasherbrum I, a total of 25 summited K2 and were the fIrst to do so since July 1997. June's fine weather was rather too early for most expeditions to mount a summit bid, and by the next suitable period towards the end of July a signifIcant number of teams had already run out of time and left for home. Inevitably, there were several near misses but fortunately only one death. Sadly, this occurred to one of Spain's best-known mountaineers, Felix Iiiurrategi. The weather in the Karakoram was good throughout most of June and excellent in the latter part of the month. After this, however, the only clear weather window occurred briefly towards the end of July, with August generally bad owing to the influence of a heavy monsoon, and early September only marginally better. Access to Concordia for the 8000m peak base camps was easy early in the season owing to the low winter snowfall, but dry conditions on lower peaks and glaciers presented problems for numerous expeditions. The Baltoro SOOO-metre peaks Gasherbrum IT (803Sm) A total of 45 climbers representing 10 expeditions reached the 8035m summit of Gasherbrum IT, all between 20 and 30 July. -
Death at Extreme Altitude
Death at Extreme Altitude OSWALDOELZ In October 1988 four Czechoslovak climbers made the first alpine-style ascent of the formidable SW face of Mount Everest, first climbed in 1975 by Chris Bonington's large British expedition. They were equipped with the inner lining of one tent, two sleeping bags, two 40m climbing ropes, four ice axes, two ice hammers, three small cameras, one light video camera, a cooking stove and gas, food for three days and little else. After three and a half days they reached the south summit (8750m) and one climber continued to the summit (8872m). The others began to descend towards the South Col. In the early evening the summiteer rejoined the others at approximately 8300m and radioed that they felt bad and that three persons were nearly blind. They were never heard from again. Americans arriving at the South Col half an hour later could see the entire route to the south summit, but no signs of human activity. Since this area is easy scrambling ground for an experienced climber, the mass disappearance is most likely a consequence of high-altitude cerebral edema which caused the climbers to fall through a cornice or be blown off the ridge. This is just one recent example illustrating the horrifying statistics on the highest peaks of this globe. To date, 246 climbers have made a total of 275 ascents of MountEverest; 102 climbers have died on the slopes ofthis mountain (Elizabeth Hawley, personal communication). This ratio shows no decline in recent years. In the post-monsoon season of 1988, 31 individuals reached the summit of Mount Everest; nine climbers died, seven while attempting the summit without bottled oxygen. -
Aktywność Ruchowa Na Obszarach Górskich Polski I Świata
STUDIA I MONOGRAFIE AKademiI WYCHowania FIZYCZnego we WroCławiu NR 118 AKTYWNOść RUCHOWA NA OBSZARACH GÓRSKICH POLSKi i śWIATA redaKCJA nauKowa Piotr Zarzycki Jacek Grobelny WROCław 2013 KOMITET WYDAWNICZY Ryszard Bartoszewicz Bogusława Idzik (sekretarz) Lesław Kulmatycki Andrzej Pawłucki Kazimierz Perechuda Andrzej Rokita Krystyna Rożek-Piechura (przewodnicząca) Alicja Rutkowska-Kucharska Anna Skrzek Marek Woźniewski RECENZENCI PROJEKT OKŁADKI Jolanta Mogiła-Lisowska Agnieszka Nyklasz Piotr Oleśniewicz redaKtor teCHniCZNY REDAKCJA I KoreKta Beata Irzykowska Mariola Langowska-Bałys Justyna Murdza redaKtor PROWADZĄCY Małgorzata Wieczorek Bogusława Idzik Joanna Pogroszewska (ang.) Projekt współfinansowany z budżetu Województwa Dolnośląskiego. Dotyczy: Urząd Marszałkowski Województwa Dolnośląskiego, Wybrzeże Słowackiego 12-14, 50-411 Wrocław. Dotacja została przeznaczona na realizację zadania publicznego pt. „Aktywność ruchowa na obszarach górskich Polski i świata”. Środki finansowe dotacji wynoszą 7500 zł. Egzemplarze bezpłatne. © Copyright by Wydawnictwo AWF Wrocław, 2013 ISSN 0239-6009 ISBN 978-83-89156-42-6 Wydawnictwo Akademii Wychowania Fizycznego we Wrocławiu 51-617 Wrocław, al. Ignacego Jana Paderewskiego 35 www.awf.wroc.pl/wydawnictwo Wydanie I Certyfikat jakości na zgodność z PN-EN ISO 9001:2009 Książka, którą nabyłeś, jest dziełem twórcy i wydawcy. Prosimy, abyś przestrzegał praw, jakie im przysługują. Jej zawartość możesz udostępnić nieodpłatnie osobom bliskim lub osobiście znanym. Ale nie publikuj jej w inter- necie. Jeśli cytujesz -
Contributors
Contributors WILLY BLASER is a Swiss freelance journalist living in the Philippines and specialising in travel and mountaineering. While researching for a paper on Swiss mountaineers in the Himalaya he became interested in the story of Boss and Kaufmann who accompanied W W Graham to Kabru. He became convinced their claims were valid and in 2005 travelled to Sikkim to gain first-hand experience of the mountain and its neighbours. ANTONIO GÓMEZ BOHÓRQUEZ lives in Murcia, Spain. A librarian and documentalist (information scientist), he specialises in ascents in the north Peruvian ranges. He has written two books: La Cordillera Blanca de los Andes, selección de ascensiones, excursiones and Cordillera Blanca, Escaladas, Parte Norte.He has climbed since 1967, with first ascents including Spanish Direct on the north face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Italy (1977), Pilar del Cantábrico del Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain (1980), east face of Cerro Parón (La Esfinge, 5325m), Peru (1985) and the south-east face (1988). KESTER BROWN is the managing editor/designer of publications for the New Zealand Alpine Club. He produces the club’s quarterly magazine The Climber and the annual NZ Alpine Journal. He is a rock climber and mountaineer of 17 years standing and lives in Lyttelton, NZ. DEREK BUCKLE is a retired medicinal chemist now acting part-time as a consultant to the pharmaceutical industry. With plenty of free time he spends much of this rock-climbing, ski-touring and mountaineering in various parts of the world. Despite climbing, his greatest challenges are finding time to accompany his wife on more traditional holidays and the filling of his passport with exotic and expensive visas. -
In Memoriam 2010, However Most of the Books Shortlisted Have Been Reviewed in Either This Volume Or 2009
402 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n A l 2 0 1 0 / 1 1 The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature Space constraints in this two-year volume of the AJ prevent us following recent practice and reproducing the speeches of jury chairmen for 2009 or In Memoriam 2010, however most of the books shortlisted have been reviewed in either this volume or 2009. The prize of £3000 commemorates the lives of Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker and is given to the author or co-authors of an original work that has made an outstanding contribution to mountain liter- ature. On 17 May 1982 Boardman and Tasker were last seen on Mount The Alpine Club Obituary Year of Election Everest attempting to traverse The Pinnacles on the unclimbed north-east (including to ACG) ridge at around 8250m. Their deaths marked the end of a remarkable era Chris Astill 1985 in British mountaineering. Patrick (Paddy) Boulter 1972 The winners, shortlists and judges for 2009 and 2010 were as follows: Roger Childs 1997 Robert (Bob) Creswell 2007 2009 Robin Day 1968 John Edwards 1982 Winner: Beyond the Mountain by Steve House, Patagonia Books, USA Nawang Gombu Hon 1998 (Vertebrate Publishing in UK) Alistair Gordon 1993 Alfred Gregory 1952 (Hon 2004) Others shortlisted: Eileen Healey LAC 1947 Cairngorm John by John Allen, Sandstone Press Mike Hewson 1994 Hooker & Brown by Jerry Auld, Brindle & Glass, Canada Frederick Hill 1975 The Longest Climb by Dominic Faulkner, Virgin Books Peter Hodgkiss 1988 Revelations by Jerry Moffatt, Vertebrate Publishing John Kempe 1952 Deep Powder and Steep Rock -
23Fbl (Download Free Pdf) the Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna--The World's Deadliest Peak Online
23fbl (Download free pdf) The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna--the World's Deadliest Peak Online [23fbl.ebook] The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna--the World's Deadliest Peak Pdf Free Par Ed Viesturs, David Roberts DOC | *audiobook | ebooks | Download PDF | ePub Download Now Free Download Here Download eBook Détails sur le produit Rang parmi les ventes : #254078 dans eBooksPublié le: 2011-10-04Sorti le: 2011-10- 04Format: Ebook Kindle | File size: 60.Mb Par Ed Viesturs, David Roberts : The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna--the World's Deadliest Peak before purchasing it in order to gage whether or not it would be worth my time, and all praised The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna--the World's Deadliest Peak: Commentaires clientsCommentaires clients les plus utiles0 internautes sur 0 ont trouvé ce commentaire utile. Great history of the Annapurna climbing, especially first ascent of the East RidgePar Jerome RyanAmerica's first mountaineer to climb all 14 8000m peaks and twelfth overall, all without oxygen, Viesturs describes the major events on Annapurna along with his own three attempts featuring his diary entries. You should buy this book first and foremost for Viesturs account of the first ascent of the East Ridge by Swiss Erhard Loretan and Norbert Joos in 1984, second for the miraculous survival of Simone Moro and tragic death of Anatoli Bookreev on Christmas Day 1997, third for his own three attempts and eventual success, and finally as a history of the main events in Annapurna's history including the first ascent by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal in 1950, the first ascent of the south face by Dougal Haston and Don Willans on a Chris Bonington British expedition in 1970, the first ascent of the northwest face by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander in 1985, the first winter ascent by Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer in 1987, and the second ascent of the east ridge by J.-C. -
Nepal 1990 Bill O'connor
NepalI99() BILL O'CONNOR Most of the news from Nepal in the spring was about politics, not peaks. The growing pro-democracy movement, centred naturally on Kathmandu and Pokhara, resulted in rebellion and the spilling of a great deal of blood by the military and police that was barely reported by the British media. A few pre monsoon expeditions were effected, trying to get in and out of Kathmandu whilst a curfew was enforced to keep westerners off the streets. Trekking companies reported a slight drop in business as 'mail order mountaineers' fearful for their safety opted to stay away. However, by the time the post monsoon season ended, a fear both of flying and falling had been overcome, resulting in the busiest climbing season ever in the Nepal Himalaya. In all 78 expeditions visited the country, with a total of 553 climbers more or less active. This represents a 30% increase over the 1989 post-monsoon season. Predictably, established routes on 8000ers attracted the most attention. Most ascents were repeats ofestablished routes and have been well documented in magazines. Everest Records A somewhat dubious record was set on Everest. Between 4 and 7 October no fewer than 3I climbers reached the summit via the South Col route, with over 100 waiting in the Western Cwm! Marc Batard was the only climber in 1990 to reach the summit without supplementary oxygen; this during his failed attempt to climb both Everest and Lhotse within 24 hours. In all, eight nations reached the top, and the successful included the youngest-ever summiteer: 17-year-old French schoolboy Jean Noel Roche, accompanied by his father Bertrand and a brace of married couples - Mr and Mrs Stremfelj from Yugoslavia and American Cathrine Gibson with her Russian husband Aleksei Krasnokutsky. -
About Manaslu Summit Topography
About Manaslu summit topography 8000ers.com Manaslu from the southeast 1. Introduction Manaslu (8163m), the eighth highest mountain in the world, has gained a lot of popularity among climbers in recent years. In just 6 years from 2013 to 2018 it was climbed more times than in all the previous years since the first ascent in 1956: Year Ascents 1956-2012 785 2013-2018 947 Total 1732 Recorded ascents for Manaslu (source: Himalayan Database) Good accessibility and the lack of major technical difficulties on the normal route make it a popular choice and the introduction into 8000m mountaineering for many. Despite the many ascents there is general confusion about the summit area with fore-summits being mistaken as the main summit and reports about controversial/false summit claims in the media and on climbing blogs. See for instance: http://adventureconsultantsblog.com/claiming-false-summits/ https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/climbers-dont-have-to-stand-atop-it-summit-mt- manaslu-nepal/ https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2016/how-to-verify-manaslu-summit-claim/ The hazy summit topography at one of the most climbed 8000ers requires a deeper look. This report is an attempt to shed light on the true summit topography of Manaslu. The nature of this report is purely educational and non-commercial. 8000ers.com Page 2 2. Summit topography Picture 1 (photo: Paulo Grobel) Picture 1 shows the upper reaches of the northeast face of Manaslu with fore-summits and main summit. a,b,c,d,e are lower fore-summits 1 is a rock pinnacle often used as an anchor for the fixed ropes C2 and C3 are upper fore-summits/cornices on the final summit ridge 4 is the main summit Monkey face (MF) is a rock formation just underneath C2 Square blocks (SB) are two different rock formations, one on the ridge between C2 and C3, the other one just underneath C3 8000ers.com Page 3 Picture 2 (photo: Guy Cotter) A close-up view of the final summit ridge with climbers on the main summit, taken from below near the normal route of ascent. -
Catalogue 51: Oct 2014
Top of the World Books Catalogue 51: Oct 2014 Mountaineering This is largely a photographic account of the 1973 Italian expedition to Annapurna. The 11-member team followed the French first-ascent route up to Alpinist Magazine #47. Summer 2014. #26750, $14.95 Camp II on a plateau and then broke off in a new direction up the NW Spur. Accidents in North American Mountaineering. 2014 new. #26810, $12.- They had established Camp III and IV and reached 23,125’ when a storm American Alpine Club Journal. 2014 new. #26809, $49.95 broke. Two members stayed in Camp II while the others descended. Tragically, Abelein, Manfred. Shisha Pangma: Eine Deutsche Tibetexpedition a large ice and rock avalanche swept the plateau and eliminated Camp II and bezwingt den Letzten Achttausender [Shisha Pangma: A German Tibet the two climbers who remained there. The expedition was then abandoned. This Expedition Conquers the Last Eight-thousander]. 1980 Gustav Lübbe book weighs four pounds. First published in 1974, this edition is identical to the Verlag, Bergisch Gladbach, 1st, 4to, pp.216, photo frontis, 168 color & 52 bw first but also includes 24 pages in English. In English and Italian. photos, sketch, photo/map eps, blue cloth; dj fine, cloth fine. #12137, $75.- Bonington, Chris. Everest: South West Face. 1973 Hodder & Stoughton, Abelein (1930-2008) was a German professor of law, politician, pilot, and London, 1st, 8vo, pp.352, 80 color & 15 bw photos, blue cloth; signed Bonington mountaineer. He co-led, along with Günter Sturm, the 1980 German expedition & Doug Scott, dj clipped, else fine, cloth fine. -
AFRICA Kilimanjaro, Western Breach. on September 16, Harold Knutson and I Ascendedand Descended This Route Next to the Arrow Glacier
216 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1983 AFRICA Kilimanjaro, Western Breach. On September 16, Harold Knutson and I ascendedand descended this route next to the Arrow Glacier. Beginning at the rarely used 12.500-foot roadhead on the Shira Plateau (only four parties signed in at the national park gate in the previous six months), we reached the main summit of the mountain, 19,340-foot Uhuru Point, in seven hours, then re- gained the roadhead in four-and-a-half hours. Local climbers later told us that this was the first one-day round-trip up and down Kilimanjaro. A major contributing factor was our footgear. The use of new Nike trail shoes enabled us to wear the same footgear for crossing glaciers up high and for running trails down low. Also, neither of us had the slightest sign of headache or altitude sickness, which we attribute to rapid descent and minimal time up high. We left Moshe at 3500 feet one afternoon, slept at 12,500 feet. and returned to 3500 feet just 15 hours after the start of the climb. GALEN A. ROWELL Batian, Mount Kenya. Our group consisted of Juan Carlos Robla, Pilar Femandez, Teresa Marchan, Luis Suarez, Nando Mame, Luisa Alonso, CCsar de Prado, Angeles Garcia, Angeles Navarro, Pace Gomiz and me. After sev- eral ascents of Lenana by the normal route and Point Peter by the difficult east face, on July 12 Suarez, de Prado, MamC and I made a new route on Batian on the north face. Our route was between the west ridge and the north glacier. -
NRO 3/10 6 E in the Beginning We Invented the Kernmantel Rope
NRO 3/10 6 e www.climbing.fi IN THE BEGINNING WE INVENTED THE KERNMANTEL ROPE. MeMber Of VAUDe GrOUp: Shelby Oy|Merikoskenkatu 3|90500 oulu|[email protected]|www.shelby.fi www.edelrid.de Anz Raven A4 FI Shelby.indd 1 13.10.2009 14:25:48 ständi PÄÄKIRJOITUS SISÄllyS Taas on yksi kesäkiipeilykausi Suomessa saa- jan kiipeilijästä Artturi Krögeristä. Art antaa 4 Tiedotteet tu päätökseen ja epätavallisen hikinen sellai- Joselle ja Juhalle tulitukea suoraan pääkallo- 7 Spotteri nen... Harvassa kiipeilymaassa kausi on kes- paikalta Nixistä. kiverto vuonnakaan niin kaksijakoinen kuin Vuosi sitten lupailin tällä pääkirjoituspalstalla 16 Walter de Basecamp meillä täällä pohjoisessa Europassa. Maalis- jo seuraavaan numeroon isompaa juttu Veik- huhtikuusta ensimmäisistä kuivista päivis- 18 Como Italia 2010 ka Gustafssonista ja hänen urastaan maa- tä aina loka–marraskuun talven tuloon asti ilman huipuilla. Nyt on vuosi vierähtänyt ja 20 Sadetta ja aurinkoa Sveitsin kränkätään sormet verillä kotimaisemien kal- tarkkaavaisimmat lukijat ovat huomanneet, takametsissä lioilla ja kivillä. Projekteja on kiivetty, greidiä että eipä ole juttua näkynyt. Kuitenkin hyvää ehkä saatu nostettua tai muuten vietetty mu- 24 Valtakunnanseikkailijasta tuli kannattaa odottaa ja parasta vielä enemmän! kavia kesäpäiviä kallioilla ystävien kanssa. kiipeilyeläkeläinen Taas talven uhkaavasti lähetyessä aletaan Tässä numerossa voit lukea sankarin vaiheis- 30 Galleria haaveillaan matkasta etelän lämpimille kal- ta ja mietteistä. Tämä Kiipeilylehti on omis- lioille -jääkiipeilyyn