Shisha Pangma, 8027 M Erkundung, Erstbesteigung, Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse

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Shisha Pangma, 8027 M Erkundung, Erstbesteigung, Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse Shisha Pangma, 8027 m Erkundung, Erstbesteigung, Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse (von Günter Seyfferth, www.himalaya-info.org) 1990 Eröffnung einer neuen Route in der Südwestwand zum Mittelgipfel durch Loretan, Troillet, Kurtyka (ohne Hauptgipfel) Südwestwand des Shisha Pangma Die beiden Schweizer Erhard Loretan und Jean Troillet sowie der Pole Wojciech Kurtyka haben gerade erst am 21. Sept. erstmals die Südwestwand des Cho Oyu bezwungen und befinden sich bereits am 30. Sept. im Basislager unter der Südwestwand des Shisha Pangma. Am Abend des 2. Okt. steigen sie ohne Biwakausrüstung in das Couloir links des Hauptgipfels ein, das in Richtung Mittelgipfel führt. Bereits um 10 Uhr des folgenden Morgens ( 3. Okt.) stehen Loretan und Troillet auf dem Mittelgipfel; sie verzichten auf den Übergang zum Hauptgipfel. Beim Abstieg treffen sie auf den zurückgebliebenen Kurtyka, der alleine weiter zum Mittelgipfel steigt. Um 16 Uhr befinden sich Loretan und Troillet wieder am Beginn des Einstiegs, um 23.30 Uhr sind sie im Basislager und bereiten sich die erste Mahlzeit seit Beginn der Kletterei. Voll Sorge um Kurtyka verbringen sie den 4. Okt. im Lager. Als auch am Morgen des 5. Okt. noch kein Zeichen von Kurtyka zu sehen ist, mach sich die beiden Schweizer auf die Suche. Unter- wegs finden sie Abstiegsspuren, die nur von dem Polen stammen können. Sie haben ihn ver- passt und finden ihn schlafend im Basislager. Dort war er vierzig Stunden nach den Schweizern eingetroffen, mehr tot als lebendig. Copyright: Günter Seyfferth, 09.12.2011 Seite 1 Erhard Loretan besteigt den Shisha Pangma nochmals am 29.04.1995, dieses Mal aber den Hauptgipfel. Am 5. Okt. 1995 hat er dann mit dem Kangchenjunga seinen 14. Achttausender erreicht und ist damit der dritte Mensch nach Messner und Kukuczku, der alle 8000er bestiegen hat. Wie Messner hat er bei keinem der Berge künstlichen Sauerstoff verwendet. Teilnehmer: Erhard Loretan, Jean Troillet, Wojciech Kurtyka Quelle: Jean Ammann, Erhard Loretan: Erhard Loretan – Den Bergen verfallen 207 Seiten, gebunden, viele Farbfotos Shisha Pangma: Seite 144 - 149 Paulusverlag Freiburg/Schweiz, 1996 Wojciech Kurtyka: New Routes on Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Himalayan Journal 48 Wojciech Kurtyka: New Routes, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma The American Alpine Journal 1991 Copyright: Günter Seyfferth, 09.12.2011 Seite 2 .
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