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NRO 3/10 6 E in the Beginning We Invented the Kernmantel Rope

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NRO 3/10 6 E in the Beginning We Invented the Kernmantel Rope NRO 3/10 6 e www.climbing.fi IN THE BEGINNING WE INVENTED THE KERNMANTEL ROPE. MeMber Of VAUDe GrOUp: Shelby Oy|Merikoskenkatu 3|90500 oulu|[email protected]|www.shelby.fi www.edelrid.de Anz Raven A4 FI Shelby.indd 1 13.10.2009 14:25:48 ständi PÄÄKIRJOITUS SISÄllyS Taas on yksi kesäkiipeilykausi Suomessa saa- jan kiipeilijästä Artturi Krögeristä. Art antaa 4 Tiedotteet tu päätökseen ja epätavallisen hikinen sellai- Joselle ja Juhalle tulitukea suoraan pääkallo- 7 Spotteri nen... Harvassa kiipeilymaassa kausi on kes- paikalta Nixistä. kiverto vuonnakaan niin kaksijakoinen kuin Vuosi sitten lupailin tällä pääkirjoituspalstalla 16 Walter de Basecamp meillä täällä pohjoisessa Europassa. Maalis- jo seuraavaan numeroon isompaa juttu Veik- huhtikuusta ensimmäisistä kuivista päivis- 18 Como Italia 2010 ka Gustafssonista ja hänen urastaan maa- tä aina loka–marraskuun talven tuloon asti ilman huipuilla. Nyt on vuosi vierähtänyt ja 20 Sadetta ja aurinkoa Sveitsin kränkätään sormet verillä kotimaisemien kal- tarkkaavaisimmat lukijat ovat huomanneet, takametsissä lioilla ja kivillä. Projekteja on kiivetty, greidiä että eipä ole juttua näkynyt. Kuitenkin hyvää ehkä saatu nostettua tai muuten vietetty mu- 24 Valtakunnanseikkailijasta tuli kannattaa odottaa ja parasta vielä enemmän! kavia kesäpäiviä kallioilla ystävien kanssa. kiipeilyeläkeläinen Taas talven uhkaavasti lähetyessä aletaan Tässä numerossa voit lukea sankarin vaiheis- 30 Galleria haaveillaan matkasta etelän lämpimille kal- ta ja mietteistä. Tämä Kiipeilylehti on omis- lioille -jääkiipeilyyn hurahtaneilla kausi toki tettu Veikalle ja hänen päättäväisyydelleen, 35 Bohuslänin trädimekka menee päivastoin. taidolleen ja menestykselleen lajissa, joka erottelee jyvät akanoista ja pojat miehistä. 38 Kiipeilyn fyysinen harjoittelu Jos saat toteutettua unelmiesi kiipeilymat- Kun Veikka 26.7.2009 nousi Gasherbrum 1:n kan, ja vieläpä paikkaan, josta ei ennen ole 44 Kohti tuntematonta – 8080-metriselle huipulle, hän sai 16 vuoden julkaistu Kiipeilylehdessä juttua, niin voit ja- sporttikiipeilyä Sisiliassa urakkansa täyteen: Veikasta tuli seitsemäs- kaa kokemuksesi ja tietosi muiden kanssa toista ihminen maailmassa, joka on kiivennyt 46 Junnuleiri Övertorneån kirjoittamalla matkasta jutun Kiipeilylehteen. kaikille maailman neljälletoista yli 8 000-met- Luppiovaarassa Ota ensi yhteyttä allekirjoittaneeseen, mieti- riselle huipulle. Lisäksi Veikka nousi kaikil- tään jutun pituutta, luonnetta ym. Muitakin 48 Painotalosta boulder- le näille huipuille ilman lisähappea: suoritus kiipeilyaiheisia juttuja kannatta tarjota jul- tehtaaksi johon hänen lisäkseen on pystynyt vain kah- kaistavaksi. deksan ihmistä planeetallamme! 50 Tuoteuutuudet Kuten edellisessä lehden numerossa huoma- Kiipeilylehti lukijoineen onnittelee Veikkaa ja sit, Alppitorvi on pienen tauon jälkeen saanut toivottaa hänelle hyvin ansaittuja kiipeilyelä- uuden lentävän lähdön Johannes Kärkkäisen keläisen vuosia : ) ja Juha Evokarin hellässä syleilyssä. Nyt iso- jen seinien palsta ja sitä tekevä porukka sai vahvistusta maailman alppipääkaupungissa asuvasta freelance-toimittajasta ja pitkän lin- Päätoimittaja Jari Koski Kansi | Veikka Gustafsson 14. kasitonnisensa, Gasherbrum 1:n huipulla. Kuva: Veikka Gustafssonin arkisto. KIIPEILY 3/2010 Julkaisija Suomen kiipeilyliitto ry., Erätie 3, 00730 HELSINKI,puh. 09-224 32 907. Päätoimittaja: Jari Koski, 040-586 8123, [email protected]. Ulkoasu, taitto: Satu Bredenberg, Again Design avustajat: mm. Rami Haakana, Matti A. Jokinen, Mina Jokivirta, Sampsa Jyrkynen, Sampo Kiesiläinen, Mika Kulkas, Antti Liukkonen, Olli-Petteri Manni, Tomi Nytorp, Juha Olli, Perttu Ollila, Joonas Sailaranta,Kalle Viira sekä SKIL valiokunnat. Paino: Oy Trio-Offset Ab | Levikki: n. 2300. aineisto: Aineisto: Artikkelit word-tiedostona ja kuvamateriaalit toimitetaan Jari Koskelle: [email protected] tai postitse: SKIL/Jari Koski, Erätie 3, 00730 Helsinki. Älä tee tekstiin sisennyksiä tai muita asette- lumuokkauksia. Erota kappaleet välirivillä. Lähetä tekstistä vasta valmis viimeinen versio, oikolue mielellään ennen lähetystä. Ota yhteyttä Jari Koskeen, jos aineistosta ei ole sovittu etukäteen. Toimituksella on oikeus editoida tekstiä. Artikkelit word-tiedostona ja kuvamateriaalit toimitetaan Jari Koskelle [email protected] tai postitse: SKIL/Jari Koski, Erätie 3, 00730 Helsinki. Älä tee sisennyksiä tai muita asettelumuokkauksia. Erota kappaleet välirivillä. Ota yhteyttä Jari Koskeen, jos aineistosta ei ole sovittu etukäteen. Kuvat mieluiten digi- kamerakuvina kameran suurimmalla resoluutiolla, käsittelemättöminä. Vastaanotamme myös diat, negatiivit, m/v negatiivit sekä paperikuvat kaiken kokoisina. Kuvien resoluutio ol- tava 300 dpi 10x15 cm koossa eli noin 5 Mt/ kuva. Kuvien palautusta varten liitä mukaan palautusosoite. Käytä vain lasittomia diakehyksiä tai muovisia negataskuja. Itse skannatut kuvat mielellään RGB muodossa. Kuvien tallennusmuoto TIFF, PSD tai JPEG. Liitä mukaan kuvaajan nimi sekä kuvatekstit; paikka, kuvaaja, kiipeilijä(t), reitinnimi ja aste ym. tiedot. Kiipeilylehti 1/2011 talvi aineisto 10.1.2011 ilmestyy helmikuu | Kiipeilylehti 2/2011 kesä aineisto 10.5.2011 ilmestyy kesäkuu Kiipeilylehti postitetaan maksutta Kiipeilyliiton jäsenseurojen henkilöjäsenille. Muille tilaukset osoitteeseen [email protected]. Vuoden kestotilaus 16 €/vuosi. Irtonumerohinta 6 €. SKIL jäsenseurojen jäsenten osoitteenmuutokset ja muut postitukseen liittyvät asiat hoitavat Kiipeilyliiton jäsenseurat. Halutessasi tehdä osoitteenmuutoksen tai kun et ole saanut lehteä, ota ensimmäiseksi yhteys omaan seuraasi. Ilmoitusmyynti: Jari Koski, [email protected]. Mediakortti osoitteesta www.climbing.fi. Toimitus ei vastaa tilaamatta lähetetystä materiaalista, sen palauttamisesta, lehdessä julkaistujen kirjoitusten sisällön aiheuttamasta mielipahasta eikä juuri mistään muustakaan : ) Lehden julkaisijan vastuu mainoksien jul- kaisussa tapahtuneissa virheissä rajoittuu mainoksen hintaan. KIIPEILY 3/10 3 tiedotteet skil SUOmEn kiipeilyliitto KOILLISMAAN KIIPEILYSEURA ry. KUUSAMO ja, KTO -kurssivastaava: Jari Koski, KUOPION KIIPEILYSEURA ry. [email protected], gsm. 040 586 8123, SKIL HaLLITUS 2010 LAHDEN SEUDUN KIIPEILYSEURA KITKA ry. puh. 09 224 32907. KTO-kurssia koskevat tie- pj. Sampsa Jyrkynen, HELSINKI, jäsenet Otto LOUNAIS-SUOMEN KIIPEILYKERHO KRUXI ry. dustelut suoraan Jari Koskelle. Lahti, HELSINKI, Juha Henttonen, TAMPE- TURKU RE, Susanna Kaisla, HELSINKI, Arttu Eloran- OULUN CAVE ry. SPORTTIREKISTERI, SLU-Lajipalvelutoimis- ta, HELSINKI. OULUN KIIPEILYSEURA 91. ry. to: SLU-talo 7. krs, Radiokatu 20, Helsinki SKIL JÄSEnSEURaT PROJEKTI ry. JYVÄSKYLÄ FIN-00093 SLU BK CLIMBERS, HELSINKI ROVANIEMEN VUORISTOKLUBI RVK ry. Taneli Tiilikainen, lajipalvelun kehittäjä: CLIMBING CLUB ry. PORI SKEY ry. HELSINKI puhelin 09-3481 3135 fax 09-3481 2602 CLUB ALPIN SAVONLINNA ry. SLÄBI ry. RUOTSINPYHTÄÄ sähköposti: [email protected] HANGON HYRSKYT ry. KIIPEILYJAOS SUOMEN ALPPIKERHO ry. HELSINKI Pauliina Salonen, tietohallintoassistentti, HELSINGIN NMKY ry. TAMPEREEN NMKY ry. kiipeilyjaosto jäsen- ja sporttirekisteriasiat: lajipalvelut@ HIGH SPORT VAASA ry. TAPANILAN ERÄ ry. KIIPEILYJAOSTO, HELSINKI slu.fi, puh. 09-3481 2005 HÄMEENLINNAN KIIPEILYSEURA ry. TEAM PANIC ry. PORVOO JYVÄSKYLÄN KIIPEILYSEURA ry. TORNIORAVAT ry. TORNIO SKIL JULKAISUJEN MYYNTI: tilauslomak- KARELIAN KIIPEILIJÄT ry. JOENSUU TURUN NMKY ry. keella, linkki löytyy SKIL www-sivuilta; clim- KIIPEILYSEURA KAKKONEN ry. ESPOO bing.fi > julkaisut > hinnat ja tilaukset KIIPEILYSEURA ORANKI ry. HELSINKI Seurojen kotisivujen osoitteet tai muut yhte- https://slu-fi.directo.fi/jasenjarjestoille/laji- KIIPEILYKERHO KIILA ry. KOUVOLA ystiedot SKIL www-sivuilla. palvelut_pienlajiliitoille/tilauslomake/ KIIPEILYKERHO VERTIKAALI ry. TAMPERE SKIL postiosoite: Suomen Kiipeilyliitto ry., KIIPEILYN VUOKSI ry. IMATRA Erätie 3, 00730 HELSINKI SEURAAVA KIIPEILYLEHTI ilmestyy helmi- KLONDYKE WALL ry. KERAVA Toiminnanjohtaja, Kiipeilylehden päätoimitta- kuussa 2011, aineistopäivä on 10.1.2011. kova KOULUTUSVaLIOKUnTa tä mahdollisimman aikaisin ja pyritään tarjo- tautuminen on sitova ja osallistumismaksu amaan korvaavaa päivämäärää. tulee maksaa, vaikkei saapuisi koulutukseen. Tarvittaessa voi myös tilata yksityiskursseja SKIL aVOImET OHJaaJa- Ja Ilmoittautumiset kursseille ja kokeisiin seu- esimerkiksi yritykselle ja opistolle. KOULUTTaJaKURSSIT raaville henkilöille: KTO Helsinki, Joensuu ja SYKSY 2010 KTO-kurssien hinnat 2011: Jyväskylä sekä KTO 3: Jari Koski jari.koski@ 14.–15.10. KTO-2 Rovaniemi KTO moduuli 1: 145 € climbing.fi tai 040 586 8123. 16.10. KTO-koe Tampere KTO moduuli 2: 145 € KTO Rovaniemi ja TaTu: Oula-Matti Peltonen 16.10. KTO-koe Joensuu KTO-koe: 90 € [email protected] tai 22.10. KTO-koe Rovaniemi KTO-kortin päivitys: 75 € 040 7547 613. 23.–24.10. KTO 3 (korkeaharjoiteohjaaja- KTO 3: 175 € KTO Tampere, Luovin ammattiopisto Karkus- kurssi) Virrat KTO-3 päivitys: 90 € sa ja Basecamp Oulanka: Petri Laukamo petri. 13.11. KTO-koe Helsinki Kaikki ajankohtaiset kurssihinnat löytyvät [email protected] tai 0400 976 716. Lisäksi talvella 2011 pidetään junnuohjaaja- SKIL www-sivuston kurssihinnastosta. KO: Jaakko Lehto [email protected] tai puh. 040 769 5157. KKK: Tuomo Pesonen tuomo.peso- koulutus Etelä-Suomessa. Seuraa Skil www- Kurssia tai koetta ei voida järjestää, jos osal- [email protected] tai 050 379 4472. sivuja ja kalenteria, päivämäärän ja paikan listujia ei ole tarpeeksi. Jos kurssi joudutaan KO- ja KKK-kursseille ilmoittautumiset
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