Out and About an Eclectic Look at Things to Do and See in New England by Nell Porter Brown SEUM;

HABITATS

Out and About An eclectic look at things to do and see in New England by Nell Porter Brown SEUM;

Clockwise from far left: Gedney Farms, Bowdoin College Museum of Art, Maine Swedish Colony Midsommar, Billings Farm and Museum, the Fuller Craft Museum, and the Museum of Work and Culture

As winter is nudged out by the first warm days of spring and the refreshing sight of a few green shoots, we all wel- come the chance to explore our environs anew. Herewith our array of places to visit through0ut the region. Far from complete, the grouping represents a mix of the great outdoors, unheralded museums, atypical jaunts, cozy retreats, and CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: COURTESY OF GEDNEY FARMS; DAN GAIR/BLIND DOG PHOTO, INC.; FRED FIELD; BILLINGS FARM AND MU COURTESY OF FULLER CRAFT MUSEUM; THE MUSEUM WORK AND CULTURE festive public occasions that comprise 1900s by the blue blood-turned-actor beguile anyone. The Goodspeed Opera some of the reasons we cherish New Eng- William Hooker Gillette (who pioneered House is nearby; so is the beautiful land in the warmer months. the role of Sherlock Holmes with his Devil’s Hopyard State Park, which is re- deerstalker hat and curved pipe). The nowned for its birdwatching and fishing. Gillette Castle State Park park features splendid grounds for pic- East Haddam, Connecticut nics and hikes, along with a 24-room, The Fuller Craft Museum ct.gov/dEP/cwp/view.asp?A=2716&Q=325204 German-inspired “medieval castle,” Brockton, Massachusetts • fullercraft.org 860-526-2336 (seasonal hours) handcrafted from local fieldstone—com- 508-588-6000 This 184-acre estate in southeastern plete with turrets, balconies, and, on the This little-known gem aims to be- Connecticut was developed in the early inside, spooky nooks and crannies sure to come an “international forum for the

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recognition and ex- the Saturday night “Teen Skate to hip hop being made the old-fashioned way— ploration of craft” and and R& B” at this premier roller rink o≠ers with a wood-ﬁred evaporator—by guys features an amazing a snapshot of what goes on when hormon- who have been doing it for years. Break- variety of examples ally crazed youth mix with loud music, the fast is served all day. thereof. See the enam- opposite sex, and rapid mobility. Lobster Boat Races eled jewelry, wall re- (Skating on other days of the liefs, and paintings of week—little kids get in free with Jamie Bennett, along parents on Saturday mornings— with the “mechani- is also recommended.) cal confections” of artist Gina Kamentsky, a for- Quisisana on Lake Kezar mer professional toy Center Lovell, Maine • quisisanaresort.com and game inventor. 207-925-3500 (And this summer, Located near the New don’t miss the ex- Hampshire border, Quisisana is quisite sculptures an unparalleled summer-camp Fuller Craft composed of single experience for music lovers of all Museum sheets of paper by ages. The Old-World-style re- Japanese artist Yuko sort features cottages, boating, Nishimura, in her ﬁrst swimming, tennis courts, hiking U.S. solo show.) trails and—the pièce de résistance—a sta≠ Lobster Boat Races And any visit to Brockton mandates comprising many of the top young musi- lobsterboatracing.com FRED FIELD eating at Christo’s, a hugely popular cians in the country, who nightly perform Starting june 21 in Boothbay Harbor

FULLER CRAFT MUSEUM (slightly kitschy) restaurant with solid anything from Broadway hits and oper- and continuing on summer weekends Italian- and Greek-American food; the atic arias to classical music and barber- throughout coastal Maine, shoreline same family has owned the place since it shop quartet numbers. spectators gather with picnics and cool- opened in 1964. ers to watch lobstermen (and women) Bowdoin College Museum of Art push their crafts to the limit for bragging Hotel Dolce Villa Brunswick, Maine • bowdoin.edu/art-museum rights and cash prizes. Marvel at the Providence, Rhode Island • dolcevillari.com 207-725-3275 souped-up ﬁshing boats, some festooned 401-383-7031 The museum, reopened following a $20.8 with American and pirate ﬂags, whip Providence’s Federal million renovation, af- across the water at 55 miles per hour or Bowdoin College Hill neighborhood, where Museum of Art fords an intimate look at more, and see the winners bask un- Italian can still be heard a range of works by such ashamedly in the power of victory. Local spoken on the streets, is a artists as Winslow Ho- haunts often host post-race gatherings perfect weekend trip. This mer, Mary Cassatt, and where everyone comes to drink and argue 14-suite boutique hotel landscapist John Apple- (in fun) about the day’s showings. (complete with stainless- ton Brown, along with steel kitchenettes and decorative arts, European Mary Baker Eddy whirlpool baths) o≠ers paintings, some sculp- Library and Mapparium white-on-white décor and ture, ancient artifacts, Boston • marybakereddylibrary.org sits on DePasquale Square, and an interesting selec- 617-450-7000/800-222-3711 a European-style piazza tion of African-American This beautiful neoclassical building

with a huge fountain in BOWDOIN COLLEGE MUSEUM OF ART works. houses artifacts related to the founder of the center. Atwells Avenue has good Christian Science, which links God’s shopping, and nearby restaurants include Silver Lake State Park work and good health. It is also a magi- Venda Ravioli, Bob & Timmy’s (for Hollis, New Hampshire • nhstateparks.com/silverlake.html cal place to learn about spirituality, ge- grilled pizza), and Pastiche, which prof- 603-465-2342 ography, and world leadership. The fers the alluring torta di cioccolata along Silver lake state park, across the Mapparium, built in 1935, is a three- with other delectable desserts. Massachusetts border near Nashua, has story, walk-through glass globe that puts 80 acres of woodlands, along with a visitors in the center of the earth—at a Skateland 1,000-foot sandy beach, picnic tables, time when Africa was still divided into Bradford, Massachusetts • skateland.com/page1.html playing ﬁelds, and paddleboats. On the European colonies. Listen to an audio 978-372-3050 way there or back, stop at Parker’s tour with quotations from Helen Keller, For parents who are eager to embrace (or Maple Barn in Brookline, where, during Martin Luther King Jr., and Winston at least curious about) today’s youngsters, March and April, you can watch syrup Churchill, among others, and go to the

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Hall of Ideas, where digitized words bubble up through a fountain and overﬂow onto the walls. Portuguese National Club Stoughton, Massachusetts • portuguesenational.com 781-344-9890 If you just want to kick back and re- lax with a juicy seafood stew, Azorean- style octopus, soft rolls, and a bottle of fresh vinho verde, hop the commuter rail from South Station to Stoughton and walk to this beloved local establishment. The club (you don’t have to be a member to eat there) also o≠ers pool, table soccer (foosball), an expansive bar—along with nice people who help each other translate your English—and lots of good cheer. They won’t take your credit card, but $60 should cover a hearty dinner and several The Harvard Club of Boston is family. drinks for two, along with a few rounds of games. Coolidge Hill Reservation Paul Blando, MD, Faculty. Member since 1998. “The cultural and social offerings together with the amenities and convenience of Manchester-by-the-Sea, Massachusetts the Harvard Club of Boston were substantial reasons for me to join. thetrustees.org/pages/292_coolidge_reservation.cfm 978-526-8687 Over time, my attachment became more personal: it’s all about the Enjoy a walk along lush wetlands people of the Club, with whom my family and I share the spirit and marshes out to Coolidge Point, a ma- of membership.” jestic expanse of lawn and old shade trees right on the ocean, edged by rocky head- Taylor Blando, Legacy Member since 2005. “I fondly remember lands great for climbing and picnics and many Thanksgiving buffets and Easter dinners at the Club with my private spots for sun-bathing or medita- family; it’s as if the Harvard Club is a part of my family history. tion. The 64-acre site is owned by the When a Legacy membership was available to me, I didn’t have Trustees of Reservations, and also o≠ers to think twice.” an easy one-mile trail around Clarke Pond and Magnolia Beach. Brittany Blando, Legacy Member since 2005. “Young members behold! I am convinced that the Club sees a future in our future Dinosaur State Park and I believe its leadership is committed to maximizing the value Rocky Hill, Connecticut • dinosaurstatepark.org of our membership.” 860-529-8423 Beneath a geodesic dome on a grassy Our Legacy Membership program allows everyone in the family to ﬁeld a few miles south of Hartford ap- join in the experience of the Harvard Club of Boston. Whether it’s pear Jurassic fossil tracks made 200 mil- a relaxed family holiday celebration, a ticket to one of our uniquely lion years ago. Visitors can see the memorable activities, a workout at our fine athletic facilities, or even tracks up close, along with life-sized di- a great night’s sleep in one of our overnight rooms, we’re always here nosaur dioramas and a display showing to help you enjoy yourselves – and each other. Why not join Paul, how the tracks were discovered by a Taylor, Brittany,and our other 5,300 members? Visit us online at bulldozer operator digging a foundation www.harvardclub.com and click on “become a member.” for a state laboratory about 42 years ago (500 of the 2,000 tracks found are on display; the rest are buried for preserva- The Harvard Club of Boston: tion purposes). The park also features A Trusted Friend in a Changing World nature trails and an arboretum that MAIN CLUBHOUSE: 374 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA 02215 aims to grow as many Mesozoic-era DOWNTOWN CLUB: One Federal St., 38th Floor, Boston, MA 02110 plants as possible.

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Maine Swedish Colony Midsommar June 20-22 • New Sweden, Maine geocities.com/maineswedishcolony 207-896-5874 (for organizer Debbie Blanchette) This small, lively festival honors the ! summer solstice and Swedish history in " the far northeast corner of Maine through " an enchanting Maypole (Majstång) dance in which children and adults dress in traditional garb, hand out flowers, and deco- # $ % rate the pole, accompanied by guest musi- &'( )$ # # * cians and professional folk dancers. On Saturday evening, everyone gathers for ! the smörgåsbord (advance tickets re- " #$! #! quired), followed by dancing and a %%& & bonfire. The Swedish colony, originally ' settled in 1870, reached its peak popula- %%( tion in the early 1900s; now, organizers )&* ! say, roughly 100 people of Swedish her- + , - itage still live in the area. A museum with .&/(0'1(2.33 pioneer-day artifacts is also worth a look. The village is a 15-minute drive from New Brunswick (or you can fly to nearby Presque Isle from Bangor or Portland).

Billings Farm and Museum

Billings Farm and Museum Woodstock,Vermont • billingsfarm.org 802-457-2355 This farmstead is just one of the special things to see and do in and around BILLINGS FARM AND MUSEUM Woodstock, a small town with nice shops, antiques, restaurants, and unparalleled mountain-biking routes. Located within walking and biking distance of the town center, the Billings farm provides an intimate look at a working dairy farm and barnyard life, including a tour of the main house (built in 1890), which contains the creamery. The site’s mission is to keep What’s a Bar Bite? alive age-old New England traditions Small plates a la Francaise for just $10. while promoting stewardship of the land Appetizer? Light meal? You decide! for generations to come. The daily butter churning is great fun, as is the chicken • 8 Holyoke St., Cambridge MA (617) 497-5300 program, in which sta≠ers relay every-

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thing you’d want to know about how about a two-hour drive northwest of toric overnight experience. Antiques chickens make eggs, communicate, and Portland, near Mexico. Visitors to the abound, and the décor is genuinely rustic live peaceably in close quarters. Also state picnic area on Route 17 can rent (no froufrou); the only indulgence is the worth visiting is the Marsh-Billings- panning equipment from Coos Canyon scrumptious breakfast (with Judy’s own Rockefeller National Historic Park. Rock and Gift across the street; the store granola, mu∞ns, and jams). Four com- opened in 1956 and displays some of the fortable rooms are available, all guests Gaspee Days prized nuggets found over the years. share baths (one with a claw-foot tub), May 18, May 24-26, and June 13-15 While prospectors wade through the and common rooms for drinking tea, Cranston and Warwick, Rhode Island shoals, swimmers and cli≠-divers will reading, or socializing take up the down- http://gaspee.com/GaspeeDaysEvents.htm love the 20-feet-deep waters. To be on the stairs. Ask Dave for directions to nearby On june 9, 1772, Pawtuxet Village was safe side, ask local residents which parts swimming holes, the state-of-the-art the site of a major act of colonial defiance: of the property are public or private, and Williams College performance center When HMS Gaspee, a British revenue follow rules to respect the land. Take a and campus art museum, and the Clark schooner, ran aground in the bay while hike into the nearby Angel Falls, a moun- Art Institute as well. Note, too, that Thai chasing a packet ship, patriots boarded tain brook with a 90-foot drop—the Garden has great sushi. the vessel and torched it. Each year, local largest one reported in Maine—and look residents reenact the burning at the finale into staying at the Coos Canyon Cabins Pittsfield State Forest/Balanced of the Gaspee Days festival. This year’s and Campground. Rock/Wahconah Falls reenactment takes place on June 15, but Pittsfield/Lanesborough, Massachusetts related events begin May 18 and include a La Laiterie mass.gov/dcr/parks/western/pitt.htm craft fair, parade, and costume contest, a 188 Wayland Ave., Providence • farmsteadinc.com 413-442-8992 revolutionary encampment, and a 5K road 401-274-7177 Wa lk some of the 30 miles of woodland race. Stay in Providence—just minutes Wayland square is a hip neighbor- trails in search of wildlife, streams, and away—or at Edgewood Manor, a bed hood, not far from Brown University, with waterfalls—or just plain solitude—and and breakfast in a Greek Revival mansion. several boutiques, gift shops, an art then take a picnic to the swimming beach gallery, and two used-book stores (Books for a late afternoon dip, or go for a rigor- Cross Sound Ferry on the Square and Myopic Books). This ous mountain-bike ride on approved New London, Connecticut excellent bistro is attached to Farmstead, trails. Also in the forest: pay homage to a longislandferry.com/Default.asp an unusual artisanal cheese shop also natural curiosity—the 165-ton limestone 860-443-5281 (check seasonal schedule) owned by husband and wife on-site chefs boulder balanced upon a small stone Boats leave from here for Long Island, Matt and Kate Jennings. The menu fea- below it—or hike in to witness the scenic Block Island, and Martha’s Vineyard. Pack tures sublime food and drink pairings and wonder of Wahconah Falls. your bikes, and pick a destination. On heavenly homemade pastries. If you ven- Long Island, one can tour dozens of East ture downtown before or after dinner, Fire Museum/Shoe Museum/ Rocky Marciano Exhibit Cross Sound Ferry take in a show at Trinity Repertory Theatre or the 216 North Pearl Street, Brockton, Massachusetts Providence Performing brocktonma.com and brocktonhistoricalsociety.org offer Arts Center. Or visit the limited information; it’s best to e-mail curator Derek edgier AS220: with a taque- Canavan ([email protected]). The museums are ria and bar, art gallery, con- open by appointment or, most often, on the first and cert stage, studio space, and third Sundays of the month, 2-4 p.m. (From Boston, take community darkroom all in Route 24 south, exit at Route 27 north, and go to the the building, the place is a first set of lights; the museum buildings are on the left.) magnet for counterculture Opened in 1992, The Fire Museum, has End wineries—many of which are open and adventuresome tourists alike. two beautifully restored 1850s hand-tub year-round with special tasting events, pumper engines—“The Protector” and music festivals, and galas. Block Island, the River Bend Farm Bed “The Enterprise”—along with hundreds smallest town in the smallest state, o≠ers and Breakfast of smaller artifacts, from old boots and CROSS SOUND FERRY urbane and pastoral pleasures alike, along Williamstown, Massachusetts equipment to a range of helmets, breath- with great biking and beachside fun. windsorsofstonington.com/RBF ing apparatus, and a delightful set of 413-458-3121 (open seasonally) scaled wooden models of fire engines Panning for Gold in Coos Canyon Innkeepers Dave and Judy Loomis made by a local firefighting bu≠. Also on Byron, Maine • avcog.org/visit_walking.aspx helped save this 1770 Georgian Colonial hand is an a≠ecting display that com- 207-783-9186 farmstead and have kept it pretty much memorates the 13 Brockton firemen killed The swift river pours through a 32- as it’s always been—but now it’s open to in the 1941 Strand Theatre disaster. foot bedrock gorge at Coos Canyon, visitors interested in an authentic, his- For about 160 years, Brockton was a

28N March - April 2008 NEW ENGLAND REGIONAL SECTION Southgate at Shrewsbury Continuing Care Retirement Community bustling metropolis, a major manufactur- Less than 1 hour from ing center for American shoes: a history Boston • 200 Seat theatre showcased at the unique Shoe Museum, • Health club • Indoor along with hundreds of pairs of, yes, swimming pool • Four-lane shoes—including Chinese footbinding bowling alley • Woodwork- materials, Native American moccasins, ing shop • Fine and casual and footwear once worn by slaves. As dining. For a brochure, part of the fast-growing “Celebrity please call 1-800-492-8331. Shoes” exhibit, you can examine Bill Clin- ton’s jogging sneakers, dainty purple 30 Julio Drive, Shrewsbury, MA 01545 • www.southgateatshrewsbury.com pumps that once graced the feet of Mamie Eisenhower, Ted Williams’s game-worn cleats, and shoes from Brockton native and world heavyweight champion Rocky Mppljoh!Gps!Mpwf@ (A separate, special exhibit of Marciano. Dzouijb!Kpiotpo!NbdLbz!B/C/Ö75! privately owned Marciano artifacts—on boe! display for the first time—opens in Xbssfo!Kptfqi!Lffhbo!N/C/B/Ö72-!E/C/B/Ö78 March.) Also of note are about 40 pairs of ! military footwear dating from the Civil nfu!boe!nbssjfe!uispvhi!uif!Ibswbse!Nbhb{jof!qfstpobmt/!!! War through Desert Storm. Stonehill Col- Tff!uifjs!wjefp!tupsz!gspn!uif!Ofx!Zpsl!Ujnft!ÓWpxtÔ!tfdujpo!bu!! lege’s on-line archives o≠er further infor- xxx/ibswbsenbhb{jof/dpn0qfstpobmt mation: stonehill.edu/archives/Shoe/Spe- Up!nffu!zpvs!mpwf!jo!Ibswbse!Nbhb{jof-!dpoubdu!Hsfudifo!Cptuspn!! cialty/museumcollectionshome.htm. bu!728.5:7.7797!ps!dmbttjßfetAibswbsenbhb{jof/fev Scotch Hill Inn Ogunquit, Maine • scotchhillinn.com 877-423-2240 This simple, tasteful bed and breakfast in the heart of the town is a five- minute walk from sandy beaches, trails, art galleries, and exceptional restaurants. The innkeepers are nurturing, generous hosts who also know how to have fun: they provide three-course breakfasts and, during summer weekends, o≠er wine and cheese gatherings and themed barbecues. Special massage and spa weekends are available, as are group rates for “Girls Night Out” and o≠-season packages. Union Fair August 17-23 Union, Maine • unionfair.org 207-785-3281 This annual event is both a legitimate and inspiring agricultural festival, and a week of fun-filled, homegrown activities At Brookhaven spent communing with fellow human be- lifecare living is as good as it looks. ings—something we often forget can ac- tually be more satisfying than watching Brookhaven at Lexington offers an abundance of opportunities for TV. For starters, there are the pig scram- intellectual growth, artistic expression and personal wellness. Our residents ble, the pie-eating and bubblegum-blow- share your commitment to live a vibrant lifestyle in a lovely community. ing contests, and the rooster and hen Call today for a tour of our model apartment and newly renovated Commons! cackling competition, which take place A Full-Service Lifecare Retirement Community amid the usual carnival rides, fried-dough www.aboutbrookhaven.org booths, and games of chance. 4-H Club (781) 863-9660 • (800) 283-1114

Harvard Magazine 28O NEW ENGLAND REGIONAL SECTION members show o≠ their animal handling event that celebrates the region’s Museum of Russian Icons skills in one arena (a wonderful animal- maritime heritage, promotes preser- petting tent is open all the time), while vation, and encourages young the adults brag about their tractors and boaters to take to the seas. Many livestock in weight-pulling events or owners open their decks and galleys strut their stu≠ in the traditional “He- to visitors while reciting tales of Man Contest.” At night, bands play until their boats’ illustrious histories. late and endless homemade dinners of turkey and gravy are served. Lastly, don’t The Inn at East Hill Farm forget to attend the coronation of the Troy, New Hampshire • east-hill-farm.com “Maine Wild Blueberry Queen.” 800-242-6495/603-242-6495 At the base of Mount Monad- Gedney Farm nock, this low-key family resort has New Marlborough, Massachusetts a barn with animals (kids milk the gedneyfarm.com cow and goat, and collect eggs), 800-286-3139/413-229-3131 swimming pools, horseback riding, Nestled in the southwest corner of and pond swimming. Specialty the state, this restored Normandy-style weekends are devoted to, among barn has 16 elegant but rustic guest other things, adult folk dancing, rooms surrounded by rolling farmlands, single parents, magic, cooking, and woods, and open space. At the other end women’s wellness. of the village is a tasteful spa with yoga MUSEUM OF RUSSIAN ICONS and Pilates classes attached to Mepal Museum of Russian Icons throughout its more than 200 acres. The Manor, a deluxe country-house hotel be- Clinton, Massachusetts Altar of the Nation, for example, for longing to the same owners. Both lodg- museumofrussianicons.org which stones were donated from ings are good places from which to ram- 978-598-5005 battlefields around the world, is a memo- ble around the Berkshires and visit their Local plastics businessman Gordon rial to all American war dead, while the main attractions, all within striking dis- Lankton owns about 300 Russian icons— Women’s Memorial Bell Tower specific- tance. Alternatively, the guest houses are the largest collection in North America— ally honors women “who sacrificed their fine destinations in and of themselves, far and has put most of them on display in lives in service to our country.” Public from the hurly-burly that infects so many this museum he founded in 2006. Once services are held on Easter, Memorial Day, urban lives. owned by members of virtually every seg- and Veterans Day, and in season for those ment of Russian Orthodox Christian so- seeking solace or spiritual grounding. Antique and Classic Boat Festival ciety, the icons span six centuries and August 23 and 24 • Salem, Massachusetts represent styles endemic to different re- Museum of Work and Culture by-the-sea.com/bacbfestival • 617-666-8530 gions. Set in a restored nineteenth-cen- Woonsocket, Rhode Island The 26th annual show o≠ers a diverse tury mill building with stunning interior woonsocket.org/workandculture.htm array of watercraft, including hand-pow- architecture, the exhibits include multi- 401-769-WORK (9675) ered boats built from the 1890s through media displays on how icons were made, This museum tells the story of the Qué- the 1960s, vintage powerboats, and classic how they relate to world history, and becois who moved to Rhode Island— yachts. It is a family-friendly, inexpensive how art can lead to enlightenment. trading in farming for factory work— For lunch and a walk through outdoor and puts their story in the wider context Antique and Classic Boat Festival beauty, drive an easy 10 minutes away to of the labor movement. Visitors can step the Tower Hill Botanic Garden in Boyl- inside a Quebec farmhouse and hear the ston. Walk in the woods, smell fresh voices of young girls debating whether to flowers in the conservatory, or dine on leave Canada, or into a model classroom the scenic terrace adjoining the on-site where a nun’s voice sums up the chil- Twigs Café. dren’s behavior. On the factory floor, you can sort bobbins, working against the Cathedral of the Pines clock, just as children laboring in a tex- Rindge, New Hampshire • cathedralofthepines.org tile mill might have done. Grab a meal 603-899-3300 (open seasonally) nearby at Ye Olde English Fish and Open to visitors of all faiths, this nat- Chips, an 85-year-old New England in- ural sanctuary among rolling hills o≠ers stitution whose name says it all, or at quiet, fragrant pine groves, mountain Chan’s, a Chinese restaurant known for

ANN CAMPBELL views, manicured gardens, and shrines its jazz shows.

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