Upcoming CHSC Speakers Bureau Programs Don’t miss out on a tour of the The Summer 2018 Vol.17 • No. 1 Hi Rare Book Room! ry sto a r n i Have you seen the Rare Book Room at LAPL? It’s open and i a l n u free to the public, but here’s your chance for a personalized s C Food tour by Principal Librarian of Research & Special Collections, Ani Boyadjian. Come see C H S C o Since 1995 f a a variety of cookbooks i So n u r t ifo published in California, hern Cal learn about this unique JOurnal archive, and view some Dedicated to pursuing food history and supporting culinary collections at the Los Angeles Public Library of the core items that has been purchased via CHSC funds over the Badmouthing Your Grub years. Grub. It basically means maggot, and all its associations are loath- Sunday, August 26 at 2:00 pm (Yes, Sunday!) some. How does a word like that get to be slang for food? Panel presentation by Piero Selvaggio, Akasha Richmond, This event is open to CHSC members only and sells out Jet Tila, Charles Perry, and Richard Foss quickly. Tickets cost $25 each and members are allowed In the case of “grub,” it’s actually been around since the 17th “The Restaurant Revolution: to purchase up to two additional guest tickets. Look for Upcoming Programs at the Central century and has the flavor of a growling tough-guy term from How Angelenos Transformed Modern Food Culture” the Eventbrite announcement with a link to purchase Library’s Mark Taper Auditorium: English thieves’ or beggars’ slang. But a lot of self-deprecating food Mark Taper Auditorium, Los Angeles Central Library tickets in your email inbox soon! Have questions? Contact words have arisen in this country, particularly in the West and [email protected]. September 8, 2018 Jonathan Kauffman, Charles Perry probably from the tradition of tall tales and frontier irony. I remem- Author, Hippie Food: How CHSC President ber in the Seventies driving through a long, long stretch of sparsely Saturday, October 13, 2018 at 1:00 PM Back-to-the-Landers, Longhairs, and populated Texas where the highway was periodically enlivened by billboards reading, Haven’t seen our new Los Angeles Public Library Revolutionaries Changed the Way We Eat “Only 120 Miles [for instance] to the Sorriest Burgers in Texas.” Actually, I’ve been kicking website yet? Check us 630 West Fifth Street “Hippie Food” myself ever since for not stopping to find out exactly how sorry those burgers were. out at: www.chsocal.org Los Angeles, CA 90071 October 13, 2018 In the Forties, when the San Fernando Valley was pretty sparsely populated itself and Sarah Lohman, restaurants were few and far between, there was a place on Ventura Boulevard called Author, Eight Flavors: The World Story Hawley’s Steakhouse which used the slogan “Tough Steaks and Dull Knives.” My father of American Cuisine often expressed regret that he’d never eaten there, but I noticed that he never “Eight Flavors and the Revolutionary bestirred himself to go. Story of Black Pepper” Continued on page 6 , 1915. , the in Pan-Pacific Cook Book Cook Pan-Pacific The California Bear-Chef first appeared first Bear-Chef California The November 10, 2018 Program Notes Sarah Portnoy, Author, Food, Health, and Culture in The reception following each month’s program honors the Latino Los Angeles speaker and gives us all a chance to speak one-on-one with our A n n u a l C H S C M e m b “Latino Food Culture in L.A.” e S r s A P V a guest while enjoying delicious snacks relating to his/her topic. r E t T y H E ! D A T E : O C T O B E R 2 1 , 2 0 1 8 December 8, 2018 Long overdue is specific thanks from us all to our Hospitality Com- Jeff Keasberry, mittee members who provide those delicious morsels. To chair, Author, Indo Dutch Kitchen Secrets: Sandeep Gupta, and his tireless crew, we send out a warm thank Stories and Favorite Family Recipes Nancy Zaslavsky you for their contributions in 2018. A special “Bravo!” to new “Exploring Indo Dutch Fusion” CHSC Vice President, volunteers Mary-Jo Uniack, Laurel & Jim Howat, and Flo Selfman, Programs who rank as the latest reception royalty, joining steady rock stars Edie & Jay, Jeri, Doris, Jill, Darien, Vanessa, Joan, and Toni. Please consider generously supporting CHSC with sponsorships of our monthly expenses. These sponsorships make a big difference to our bottom line and can be earmarked for your favorite speaker’s reception expenses, videotaping, and even our new website costs. Hey, Cool Dude, how about helping out with Jonathan Kauffman’s Address Correction Requested Correction Address er with us? Why not volunte upcoming September talk on “Hippie Food?” Los Angeles, CA 90071-2002 CA Angeles, Los 630 West Fifth Street Fifth West 630 There’s many ways to volunteer or contribute It doesn’t seem like all that long ago, but way back in January, Charles Perry hit the to CHSC. Have you considered our media pavement running with his annual President’s lecture, this time on “What to Order in relations team? We're looking for someone to 13th-Century Granada.” Charles also introduced us to his latest book, Scents and help create a monthly Mailchimp email and Flavors: A Syrian Cookbook at the at field media email requests. Minimal time , Library of Arabic Literature, NYU Press, 2017. In February, commitment, and no writing or previous I had the pleasure to interview always food savvy Barbara Fairchild with “Bon Appétit experience is necessary. If interested, please The Culinary Historians of Southern California Southern of Historians Culinary The contact Heather Hoffman at and Me: 32 Years in America’s Food Revolution.” March brought moderator Melissa hnhoff[email protected] or (323) 863-6617. Pugash and her animated panel, Lisette Gaviña-Lopez, James Marcotte, and Mike Continued on page 6 Events Aro A L er from the Editor Trending Harissa Connects the Culinary World und Lo e s Angeles to Ancient Tunisian Cuisine The food world has recently lost some of its most revered icons By Gerry Furth-Sides Matcha LA Fest from all sides of the industry. August 25 & 26, 2018, 12-5 PM Los Angeles Legendary Chef Joël Robuchon, the most decorated in Michelin’s Chef Alain Cohen’s first childhood memory about food had favored honey and nut-based pastries, served with a special https://www.saint-matcha.com/events award history, died at 73 after a long battle with cancer. Closer me spellbound. He was a 5-year-old getting his father a drink Tunisian coffee, mint tea or wine. to home, Los Angeles unexpectedly lost LA Times and LA Weekly Matchaholics from Saint Matcha’s Instagram pages have food critic Jonathan Gold at 57, also to cancer. Some time has of water during a family beach outing in Tunis. “I had to go to inspired the birth of this festival. Access to 20+ vendors, the well and make it to the center between circling camels “Tunisian cuisine is one of these photobooth activations, live DJ, exclusive giveaways, and family passed since the news of his death, yet the influence of his prolific friendly events. Come dressed in your favorite matcha green writings that helped shape our region’s culinary landscape and pulling up buckets of water,” he recalls. “I was so proud that I underrated, yet powerful,- world class color and your photo might be shared on @matcha.la through- his devotion to local food culture has not been diminished, had braved the camels! Looking back, it’s funny,” he chuck- out the event. Prepare to get #matchawasted! judging by the outpouring of condolences by chefs, restaurateurs les. “But I was terrorized at the time.” cuisines waiting to be discovered, and food lovers. Famous Mountain Pu-erh Tea Class & Tea Tasting or re-discovered.” September 8, 2018, 2–3:30 PM Perhaps the most mystifying, though, has been the news of Anthony Bourdain’s To native Tunisians, this ancient mode of life was customary. Denong Tea Inc., Pasadena suicide at age 61. Fans and friends were stunned, mourned him with memories and After all, his family traces their roots back to the destruction It’s a little-known secret that Tunisia was once home to a https://www.denongtea.com unanswered questions and continue to articulate exactly what his extraordinary of the first temple of Jerusalem in 586 AD. It was also the thriving Jewish community starting in the 12th century BC. Expert Jeffrey McIntosh shares his experience in the tea industry contribution was to their profession. As a chef, journalist and TV show host, he was norm to dine on an abundance of fresh fish and vegetables, Jews brought their food with them from biblical Israel, visiting multiple tea mountains and tea growing regions over the known for his honest portrayal of the dark reality of kitchen life: full of injuries, aromatic lamb dishes and savory couscous stews on the integrating their dishes into the native Berber cuisine and all last 10 years. Uncover what makes Pu-erh, this often misunder- addictions, low wages, bad tempers and exploited workers. During a time when a stood variety, such a fascinating tea by exploring raw and ripe chef’s life was presented on TV as exciting and glamorous, his style was to be upfront table, all scented with heavenly herbs and spices. the subsequent strata that formed modern Tunisian cuisine.