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Why Go? . . . . . 116 Surrounding on all sides, Lower Austria is a cradle of The Valley. . . 116 Austrian civilisation and a region offering visitors one of the country’s most lively cultural landscapes. Outdoor activities, & some great museums, wine, food and a glimpse into the age ...... 127 of the Romans at Carnuntum make leaving the capital for a St Pölten...... 128 day or longer an attractive prospect. Süd-Alpin ...... 137 And naturally everyone’s heard of the Danube River Burgenland...... 140 which cuts a picturesque valley, the , through the Eisenstadt...... 141 region’s northwest. A place of magnificent natural beauty, this is truly a European highlight for its vineyards, castles, Burg Forchtenstein. . .144 abbeys and medieval villages. Neusiedler See. . . . .144 To the south of the capital, undervisited Burgenland is all but the typical Austria of the holiday brochures; you won’t find soaring mountains, glacial lakes and bombastic Best Places to Eat architecture here, just bucolic flatlands spread like a well- tenderised schnitzel around the jewel in its crown – Neus- ¨¨Weingut Gabriel (p145) iedler See – a shallow mecca for extreme-water-sports fans ¨¨Zur Dankbarkeit (p148) and paddling toddlers alike. ¨¨Zum Kaiser von Österreich (p120) ¨¨Mörwald Kloster Und (p120) When to Go ¨ ¨¨Restaurant Loibnerhof ¨Vist Burgenland, especially the Neusiedler See region in (p122) the north, between April and October. ¨¨From November to Burgenland goes into low- season hibernation and its prime attraction – the outdoors – Best Places becomes cold, grey and windswept. to Stay ¨¨Visit Lower Austria during the April to October warm ¨¨Weingut & Weingasthof season, when the Wachau is often bathed in a soft light and Kloster am Spitz (p146) you can make the most of the Danube River and its sights and activities. ¨¨St Martins Therme & Lodge (p148) ¨¨Autumn is the best time to enjoy wine in the Wachau, and from 11 November (St Martin’s Day) each year young wine is ¨¨Restaurant & Hotel sold. Schloss (p121) ¨¨Hotel Schloss Dürnstein (p121) s g 5 l # V a #\ B3

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Wandering the Wandering Scrambling Scrambling Twitching at your your at Twitching Making a splash Hiking or Taking in the Taking Sipping wines wines Sipping Riding the oing baroque Going baroque

catching the train up the train catching (p140), Austria’s Lower . peak highest thermal waters in waters thermal Frauenkirchen at St Martins (p148) Therme & Lodge in one of the pretty the pretty in one of Heurigen (wine like in towns taverns) . (p144) Rust footplate of the of footplate Semmeringbahn, a remarkable in engineering feat . (p139) Semmering at Stift , Melk, at Stift a magnificent in Melk monastery on the banks (p124), the Danube of 9 8 7 6 5 4 3

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Lower Austri 114