©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 753

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS so awesome, and in particular to the many Many thanks to the travellers who used the last folk, too numerous to mention, in lodges from edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, use- Mzuzu to Mulanje. My research trip was con- ful advice and interesting anecdotes: siderably more fruitful and fun with your local knowledge and sociable bottles of Green. Conor Rushby, Daniel Pennings, Danny Hartogs, Elizabeth Keeling, Elsa Drandaki, Gerry Buitendag, Lucy Corne Ilya de groot, Jan Prinsen, Kjell Hoegseth, Matthieu A huge enkosi to all who shared their insider Kamerman, Stephen Poovey, Suzanne Fee, Xolile tips, including Heather, Ivor, Eben, Terri, Shae, Speelman Meruschka, Megan, Scott, Troye, Matt, Sean, Sal, Tanya, Elmar, Ed and Sylvia. Thanks to Matt, Dianne and Dan at LP and great big hugs WRITER THANKS to my mum and dad for becoming travelling Anthony Ham au pairs during research. High five to Kai, the cutest little LP writer-in-training, for being awe- So many people helped me along the way and some throughout those long road trips. And brought such wisdom and insight to this book. above all, this one is for Shawn – I absolutely Special thanks as always to Andy Raggett at couldn’t have done it without you. Drive Botswana, and to Paul Funston, Lise Hansson, Luke Hunter, Charlotte Pollard, Rob Mary Fitzpatrick Reid, Eva Meurs, Daan Smit, Jacob Tembo, Induna Mundandwe, Kasia Sliwa, Lara Good, Many thanks to all those who helped me during Ying Yi Ho, and to Frank, Juliane, Tim and Ann- this project, especially to Rafael Holt in Tofo Sophie. At Lonely Planet, heartfelt thanks to my for the excellent background information; to editor Matt Phillips – no-one knows Africa like Sidney Bliss in Maputo for updates on the lat- him. And to Marina, Carlota and Valentina – I est happenings; and to the staff loved sharing some of my favourite corners of at Maputo Special Reserve and at Limpopo Africa with you. National Park. My biggest thanks go to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for their James Bainbridge company, patience, good humour and support in Mozambique and back home. Believe the hype about Malawian friendliness: this really is the Warm Heart of Africa. Ziko- mo, then, to pretty much everyone for being 754 Trent Holden Brendan Sainsbury First up thanks to Matt Phillips for commis- Thanks to all the untold taxi drivers, chefs, sioning me to go to , one of my hotel receptionists, tour guides and inno- all-time favourite countires in the world, as cent bystanders who helped me during this well as all the production staff for putting this research. Special thanks to Jasper and Bart together. A huge thanks to Karl Wright and in Pemba, the guys at Cinco Portas on Ibo

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Jenny Nobes from Rhino Safari Camp for all Island, Peter at Pensão Gurúè, and the won- their assistance in getting around Matusado- derful staff at Gorongosa National Park. na and for tips and recommendations across the country – an unbelievable help! Also thanks to the following people for all their ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS time and assistance: the team from Chilo Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Gorge Lodge, Joy from Victoria Falls and Gor- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- don Addams, Ann Bruce, Tempe, Jane, Jacqui ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate and George from the . A Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System huge thanks to James S once again for taking Sciences, 11, 163344. time out to go on a road trip – I had a ball! Finally lots of love to my family, especially my Cover photograph: Two male impalas, Etienne partner Kate who allows me to travel to such Outram / 500px far-flung, exotic places.

was commissioned in Lonely Austin, Sarah Bailey, Andrew THIS BOOK Planet’s London office and Bain, Judith Bamber, Michelle This 7th edition of Lonely produced by the following: Bennett, Melanie Dankel, Planet’s Southern Africa guide Destination Editor Matt Andrea Dobbin, Carly Hall, Ali was written by Anthony Ham, Phillips Lemer, Jodie Martire, Rosie Nicholson, Maja Vatrić James Bainbridge, Lucy Corne, Product Editors Kate James, Mary Fitzpatrick, Trent Holden Sandie Kestell Cover Researcher Naomi and Brendan Sainsbury. David Parker Senior Cartographer Diana Lukas wrote the text that Von Holdt Thanks to Megan Eaves, formed the basis of the Wildlife Daniel Fahey, Lauren Keith, Cartographer Rachel Imeson chapter and Jane Cornwell Kate Kiely, Anne Mason, Book Designers Mike Buick, wrote the Music in Southern Catherine Naghten, Lauren Gwen Cotter Africa chapter. This guidebook O’Connell, Kirsten Rawlings Assisting Editors Janet ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 755

Index

ABBREVIATIONS Zambia 566, 610 Sterkfontain Caves (SA) Bantu people 666-9 B Botswana Zimbabwe 617, 656 463 Barra (Moz) 190 GP Game Park activities 18, 21-4, 715-18, Ziwa Ruins (Zim) 636 Basotho people 111, 112-13 GR Game Reserve see also individual architecture 675 bat-eared foxes 689, 688 activities, individual L Lesotho area codes 17 bateleurs 690, 691 locations Mal art galleries, see also bathrooms 723-4 Addo Elephant NP (SA) museums Moz Mozambique Battlefields (SA) 438-40 392-3 Ann Bryant Art Gallery N Baviaanskloof WA (SA) 384 African buffalo 685, 684 (SA) 396 Bazaruto Archipelago (Moz) NP National Park African fish eagles 690 Art Gallery (Durban, 194-5 NR National Reserve/ African penguins 693, 692 SA) 409 Nature Reserve beaches 18-19 African wild dogs 689, 705 Campbell Collections S Swaziland Camps Bay (SA) 339 Afrikaans language 741-2 (SA) 409 SA Cape Vidal (SA) 423 Agulhas NP (SA) 367 Delta Gallery (Zim) 619 WR Wildlife Reserve Chikale Beach (Mal) 133 AIDS 662-3, 672-3, 738 Hester Rupert Art WS Wildlife Sanctuary Clifton (SA) 339 air travel, see also scenic Museum (SA) 399 Coffee Bay (SA) 403 Zam Zambia flights, individual Johannesburg Art Gallery Zim Zimbabwe countries (SA) 451 Durban (SA) 408 to/from Southern Africa National Gallery of Jeffreys Bay (SA) 386 727-8 Zimbabwe (Zim) 619 Macaneta Beach (Moz) SYMBOLS Nelson Mandela 181-2 |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld within Southern Africa 730 Metropolitan Art Macuti Beach (Moz) 195 Transfrontier Park (SA) Museum (SA) 388 504 alcohol 678 Muizenberg Beach (SA) Amathole (SA) 396-8 Oliewenhuis Art Museum 336 !Kung San 743-4 (SA) 442 Anglo-Boer wars 507 Murrébuè (Moz) 223-4 Polokwane Art Museum Plettenberg Bay (SA) 377 animals, see wildlife, (SA) 481-2 A individual animals Port Alfred (SA) 395 abseiling 717-18 South African National antelopes 685 Port Elizabeth (SA) 388 Montagu (SA) 368 Gallery (SA) 327, 330 apartheid 455, 508-9 uMdloti Beach (SA) 419 Parys (SA) 446 Tatham Art Gallery (SA) aquariums Wimbi Beach (Moz) 219, Semonkong (L) 108 435 Bayworld (SA) 388 221-2 Storms River (SA) 385 Tsoko Gallery (Zim) 619 National Marine Aquarium Xai-Xai (Moz) 186 Table Mountain NP (SA) William Humphreys Art (N) 279 Zalala Beach (Moz) 205 341 Gallery (SA) 497 Stuart M Grant Tropical bearded vultures 690, 690 Victoria Falls 551 arts 674, see also individual Fish Farm (Mal) 139 countries Beira (Moz) 195-9, 196 accommodation 714-15, see Two Oceans Aquarium also individual locations ATMs 720 Bela-Bela (SA) 484-6 (SA) 331 Botswana 42, 87-8 Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 503 bicycle travel, see cycling uShaka Marine World Aus (N) 294 Bilene (Moz) 184 Lesotho 14, 97, 114 (SA) 408 birds 690-1, 707 Malawi 118, 162 archaeological sites, see Birds of Eden (SA) 377 Mozambique 169, 233 also historic sites, B birdwatching 551, 596, 707 South Africa 322, 518, 519 rock art Bambelela (SA) 485 Bangweulu Wetlands Swaziland 530, 546 Dinosaur Footprints Banda, Dr Hastings Kamuzu (Zam) 597-8 (L) 110 159-60 Boulders Penguin Colony Great Zimbabwe (Zim) 15, Banda, Joyce 160 (SA) 335 Map Pages 000 640-2, 641, 15 Bangweulu Wetlands (Zam) Bvumba Mountains 635 Photo Pages 000 Khami Ruins (Zim) 643 597-8 De Hoop NR (SA) 365 756 birdwatching continued highlights 44 Caia (Moz) 203 caracals 681, 681 Etosha NP (N) 261 history 82-3 Camdeboo NP (SA) 400-1 castles Giant’s Castle (SA) 432 holidays 91 camping 714, see also Castle of Good Hope Malawi 162 internet access 90 individual locations (SA) 326 Malolotja NR (S) 541 language 743-4, 747-8 canoeing 551, 716, see also Duwisib Castle (N) Maputo Special Reserve lesbian travellers 90 kayaking, mokoro trips, 293-4

INDEX INDEX rafting (Moz) 185 maps 90 Heinitzburg Castle Augrabies Falls NP (N) 243 Mozambique 233 money 90-1 (SA) 503 Cathedral Peak NR (SA) Namibia 309-10 national parks 86-7

B-C Kariba (Zim) 630 431  Nata Bird Sanctuary opening hours 91 (B) 54 Lake Kariba (Zam) 588 cathedrals, see churches & people 84 cathedrals  St Lucia (SA) 423 Lower Zambesi NP public holidays 91 (Zam) 585 cats 680-1 Victoria Falls 551 safe travel 89 Namibia 312 caves Walvis Bay (N) 283, 286 telephone services 91-2 Noordoewer (N) 301 Bathplug Cave (SA) 433 black market 720 time 92 Maseru (L) 100 Cango Caves (SA) 369 black-footed cats 681 tourist information 92 Port Alfred (SA) 395 Chimanimani NP (Zim) Blantyre (Mal) 149-54, travel seasons 42 South Africa 518-19 640 150, 152 travel to/from 92-4 Echo Caves (SA) 473-4 Bloemfontein (SA) 441-6, Swaziland 546 travel within 95-6 Gobholo Cave (S) 543 444 Victoria Falls 551 visas 92 Blood River (SA) 439-40 Cape Agulhas (SA) 367 Main Cave (SA) 432 weather 42 Blyde River Canyon (SA) Cape Cross Seal Reserve Makapan’s Caves (SA) 473-4 wildlife 85-6 (N) 275-6 484 boat travel, see also Boy Who Harnessed the Cape buffalo 685, 684 Stadsaal Caves (SA) individual countries Wind, The 161 Cape fur seals 275, 689, 380 to/from Southern Africa Brandberg (N) 270-1 689 Sterkfontein Caves 729 bridge swinging 551 Cape gannets 693, 692 (SA) 463 within Southern Africa bridge walking 551 Cape Maclear (Mal) 140-4, Cecil Kop Wildlife & NR (Zim) 633 731 budget 17, 715, 718 142 Cederberg Wilderness Area Bo-Kaap (SA) 323 Botswana 87, 90 Cape of Good Hope (SA) 335, 340 (SA) 380-1 Bokong NR (L) 105 Malawi 162, 163 Cape Town (SA) 323-55, cell phones 16, 723 Bontebok NR (SA) 367 Mozambique 234 328, 332, 336, 338, Central Kalahari GR (B) books 662 South Africa 519 342 76-8, 78 environment 709 Zambia 610, 612 accommodation 343-7 Central Malawi 136-44, 137 food 676 Zimbabwe 656 activities 340-1 Central Mozambique health 737 buffaloes 581, 685, 684 drinking 349-51 195-206 history 668 Bulawayo (Zim) 643-6, entertainment 351-2 Chacma baboons 682, 683 wildlife 705 644 festivals 340 Champagne Valley (SA) bungee jumping Boulders Penguin Colony food 347-9 431-2 (SA) 335 Bloukrans Bridge (SA) medical services 353 chapas 241 border crossings 728, see 382 nightlife 349-51 cheetahs 681, 705-6, 681 also individual countries Orlando Towers (SA) shopping 352-3 Chewa 742 Botswana 38, 42-96, 44 464 sights 323-39 Chikanka Island Camp accommodation 42, 87-8 Victoria Falls 551 tourist information 353 (Zam) 589 activities 88-9 bus travel 731-2, see also children, travel with 718, 719 individual countries tours 327, 341-3 business hours 91 Malawi 163 bush camps 582 travel to/from 353-4 climate 42 Mozambique 233 business hours 722 travel within 354-5 consulates 89-90 Swaziland 546 Bvumba Mountains (Zim) Cape Town Minstrel customs regulations 89 Zambia 610 635-6 Carnival (SA) 21, 340 disabilities, travellers Caprivi Strip (N) 266-8, Zimbabwe 656 with 92 Bwabwata NP (N) 266-7 266 Chimanimani (Zim) 637-9 embassies 89-90 car travel 20, see also environment 84-6 C individual countries (Moz) 201 food 42, 90 Cabaceira Grande (Moz) safety 722-3 Chimanimani NP (Zim) gay travellers 90 214-15 self-drive safaris 37 639-40 Cabaceira Pequena (Moz) to/from Southern Africa Chimanimani NR (Moz) 201 214-15 728-9 Chimfunshi Wildlife Map Pages 000 Cahora Bassa Dam (Moz) within Southern Africa Orphanage (Zam) Photo Pages 000 203 732-5 604-5 757 Chimoio (Moz) 199-200 Cradle of Humankind Tofo (Moz) 188 environmental issues Chimpanzee Eden (SA) 471 (SA) 463 Vilankulo (Moz) 192 709-12 chimpanzees 471, 604-5 crocodiles 707 Dlinza Forest Reserve Epupa Falls (N) 274 chimurenga 698 Cuamba (Moz) 215-16 (SA) 420 Erindi Private GR (N) 255 Chingola (Zam) 604 cultural villages dogs, wild 581 Erongo Mountains (N) Chintsa (SA) 401-3 Basotho Cultural Village dolphins 182 253-4 Chipata (Zam) 577-8 (SA) 447 Dorob NP (N) 275 Erongo Mountain Rhino INDEX Sanctuary (N) 253 Chirundu (Zam) 584-5 Kabwata Cultural Village Drakensberg (SA) 11, 427- (Zam) 574 Eshowe (SA) 420-1 Chizumulu Island (Mal) 35, 428, 11 Mantenga Cultural Drakenstein Prison (SA) 362 Etosha NP (N) 11, 260-4,  C-G 136 Village & Nature drinking 678 262, 11

 ,Chobe NP (B) 10, 58-65 Reserve 534 events 21-4 59, 10 driving, see car travel Njobvu Cultural Village Chobe Riverfront (B) 62-3 driving licences 615 exchange rates 721 (Mal) 144, 146 Chocas (Moz) 214-15 drums 697 Ezulwini Valley (S) 534-7, Thaba-Bosiu (L) 105-6 535 cholera 737 Durban (SA) 406-17, , culture 19-20, 671-8, see 406 Choma (Zam) 589-90 also individual countries 410 accommodation 412-13 Christianity 673-4 currency 16, 721 F activities 411-12 Falcon Ridge (SA) 431 churches & cathedrals cycling 717, 731, see also Cathedral of Nossa individual countries drinking 415 Featherbed NR (SA) 375 Senhora da Conceição entertainment 415 Fernkloof NR (SA) 364 (Maputo, Moz) 172 food 413-15 festivals 21-4 Cathedral of Nossa D gay travellers 416 Fibwe Hide (Zam) 596 Senhora de Conceição da Gama, Vasco 229 lesbian travellers 416 Ficksburg (SA) 449 (Inhambane, Moz) 186 Daan Viljoen Game Park medical services 416 films 662 Cathedral of Nossa (N) 243 nightlife 415 Fish River Canyon (N) 10, Senhora de Fátima Damara language 743 297-300, (Moz) 206 safe travel 415-16 10 Damaraland (N) 269-72 fishing 716-17 Cathedral of St Peter shopping 415 dance 676 (Mal) 135 sights 408-10 flamingos 286, 693 Gule Wamkulu 160 Christuskirche (N) 243 tourist information 416 food 676-8, 718 Mozambique 231 Church of Santa Barbara tours 412 forts (Zim) 630 dangers, see safe travel travel to/from 416-17 Fort Nonqayi Museum Church of the Vow (SA) De Hoop NR (SA) 365 travel within 417 Village (SA) 420 436 de Klerk, FW 510 Duwisib Castle (N) 293-4 Fort of São João Baptista Felsenkirche (N) 295 dengue fever 737-8 (Moz) 224 Igreja da Misericórdia deserts 701 Fort of São Sebastião (Moz) 211 Devil’s Pool (Zam) 554 E (Moz) 211, 13 eagles 690 Igreja de Nossa Senhora diarrhoea 740 German Fort & Museum East London (SA) 396-7 (SA) 258 dos Remedios (Moz) difaqane 669-70 214-15 Eastern Cape (SA) 382- Ladysmith (SA) 438 disabilities, travellers with 404, 383 Livingstonia Church 724, see also individual Maputo (Moz) 172 Eastern Delta (B) 72-3 (Mal) 128 countries foxes 689 Eastern Highlands (SA) Mua Roman Catholic diving & snorkelling 716 Francistown (B) 50-3, 51 mission (Mal) 140 447-9 Cape Maclear (Mal) 141 Franklin GR (SA) 442 St Barbara’s Church Eastern Highlands (Zim) Cape Town (SA) 341 Franschhoek (SA) 360-2 (N) 259 633-40 Bazaruto Archipelago Free State (SA) 440-9, St Michael and All Angels Eastern Zambia 577-84 (Moz) 195 440 Church (Mal) 149 economy 663 Durban (SA) 412 fuel 615 Chuwanga (Moz) 217 electricity 718, see also (Mal) 141 cinema, see films individual countries (Mal) 135 Clanwilliam (SA) 381-2 Elephant Coast (SA) 421-7 G Malawi 39, 162-3 Gaborone (B) 43-9, , Clarens (SA) 448-9 elephants 392, 427, 567, 46 49 Margate (SA) 418 accommodation 43, 46 climate 16, 21-4, see also 686, 703, 687, 694 individual countries Mossel Bay (SA) 371 Elim (SA) 487 festivals 43 Cóbuè (Moz) 217-18, 219 Mozambique 233 embassies 718-19, see also food 47 Coffee Bay (SA) 403-4 (Mal) 133 individual countries medical services 48 consulates 718-19, see also Pemba (Moz) 219, 221 emergencies 17, see also safe travel 47 individual countries Ponta d’Ouro (Moz) 182 safe travel shopping 47 Copperbelt (Zam) 603-5 Port Elizabeth (SA) 389 environment 663, 701-12, sights 43 see also individual Sodwana Bay (SA) 425 tourist information 48 costs, see budgeting countries 758 Gabarone continued Gule Wamkulu 160 Malealea (L) 109 Swakopmund (N) 280 tours 43 Gurúè (Moz) 205-6 Malolotja NR (S) 541 Swellendam (SA) 366 travel to/from 48 Gweta (B) 55 Montagu (SA) 368 Victoria Falls 551 travel within 48-9 Mossell Bay (SA) 371 hot springs Gaborone GR (B) 43 H Mozambique 233 Avalon Springs (SA) 368 galleries, see art galleries, hamerkops 693, 693 Mt Mulanje (Mal) 155 Bela-Bela (SA) 484-5 INDEX INDEX museums Harare (Zim) 619-29, 620, Namibia 312 Ezulwini Valley (S) 534 game parks, see wildlife 624 Naukluft Mountains (N) Fish River Canyon 299 reserves & sanctuaries accommodation 621-2 288-9 Kapishya Hot Springs G-J Garden Route (SA) 371-8  drinking 623 Quirimba Island (Moz) 599

Garden Route East (SA) 228  entertainment 623-5 hunting 308, 706 382-6 Sani Top (L) 108 festivals 621 hunting dogs 689, 705 Garden Route NP (SA) 374 South Africa 519 food 622-3 Hwange NP (Zim) 647- Tsitsikamma section Swaziland 546 50, 648 384-5 medical services 627 Ts’ehlanyane NP (L) 105 hyenas 689, 689 nightlife 623 Gauteng (SA) 449-71 Victoria Falls 551 safe travel 626-7 gay travellers 719, see also Waterberg Plateau Park shopping 625-6 individual countries (N) 257-8 I sights 619-21 Ibo Island (Moz) 224-5 geography 701-2 Zomba Plateau (Mal) 149 tourist information 627 Ibo Island coffee 226 George (SA) 373-4 Himba language 743 Giant’s Castle (SA) 432-3 travel to/from 627-8 Imire: Rhino & Wildlife Himba people 273, 305-6 Conservation (Zim) 629 Giant’s Cup Trail (SA) 433 travel within 628-9 Hinduism 674 immigration, see individual giraffes 686, 705, 679, health 736-40 hippopotamuses 686 countries 686 hepatitis 738 historic sites, see also impalas 685, 685 GLBTI travellers 719, see Herero language 743 archaeological sites, Inhaca Island (Moz) 181 also individual countries 305-6 rock art Inhambane (Moz) 186- Goegap NR (SA) 505 Hermanus (SA) 364-5 Drakenstein prison 8, 187 Golden Gate Highlands NP Highmoor NR (SA) 434 (SA) 362 (SA) 447-8 Inkwenkwezi GR (SA) 401 hiking 20, 37, 717 Isandlwana Battlefield golf Inner Delta (B) 73-4 Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 439 insurance 719-20 Blantyre (Mal) 149-50 (SA) 503 Magersfontein (SA) 496 health 736 Bvumba Mountains Blyde River Canyon Mgungundlovu (SA) 421 vehicle 733 (Zim) 636 (SA) 474 Ngwenya Iron-Ore Mine Durban (SA) 411 Botswana 88-9 (S) 540 internet access 611, 720, see also individual George (SA) 374 Camdeboo NP (SA) 401 Ondini (SA) 421 countries Lilongwe (Mal) 120 Cape Maclear (Mal) 141 Robben Island (SA) internet resources 17 Phalaborwa (SA) 489 Cape of Good Hope 340 330-1 health 737 Gonarezhou NP (Zim) Cape Town (SA) 340 Rorke’s Drift Battlefield 642-3 (SA) 439 travel advisories 723 Chimanimani (Zim) 638 Gondwana Cañon Park World’s View Isandlwana (SA) 439 De Hoop NR (SA) 365 (N) 300 (Malindidzimu