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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS so awesome, and in particular to the many Many thanks to the travellers who used the last folk, too numerous to mention, in lodges from edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, use- Mzuzu to Mulanje. My research trip was con- ful advice and interesting anecdotes: siderably more fruitful and fun with your local knowledge and sociable bottles of Green. Conor Rushby, Daniel Pennings, Danny Hartogs, Elizabeth Keeling, Elsa Drandaki, Gerry Buitendag, Lucy Corne Ilya de groot, Jan Prinsen, Kjell Hoegseth, Matthieu A huge enkosi to all who shared their insider Kamerman, Stephen Poovey, Suzanne Fee, Xolile tips, including Heather, Ivor, Eben, Terri, Shae, Speelman Meruschka, Megan, Scott, Troye, Matt, Sean, Sal, Tanya, Elmar, Ed and Sylvia. Thanks to Matt, Dianne and Dan at LP and great big hugs WRITER THANKS to my mum and dad for becoming travelling Anthony Ham au pairs during research. High five to Kai, the cutest little LP writer-in-training, for being awe- So many people helped me along the way and some throughout those long road trips. And brought such wisdom and insight to this book. above all, this one is for Shawn – I absolutely Special thanks as always to Andy Raggett at couldn’t have done it without you. Drive Botswana, and to Paul Funston, Lise Hansson, Luke Hunter, Charlotte Pollard, Rob Mary Fitzpatrick Reid, Eva Meurs, Daan Smit, Jacob Tembo, Induna Mundandwe, Kasia Sliwa, Lara Good, Many thanks to all those who helped me during Ying Yi Ho, and to Frank, Juliane, Tim and Ann- this project, especially to Rafael Holt in Tofo Sophie. At Lonely Planet, heartfelt thanks to my for the excellent background information; to editor Matt Phillips – no-one knows Africa like Sidney Bliss in Maputo for updates on the lat- him. And to Marina, Carlota and Valentina – I est Mozambique happenings; and to the staff loved sharing some of my favourite corners of at Maputo Special Reserve and at Limpopo Africa with you. National Park. My biggest thanks go to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for their James Bainbridge company, patience, good humour and support in Mozambique and back home. Believe the hype about Malawian friendliness: this really is the Warm Heart of Africa. Ziko- mo, then, to pretty much everyone for being 754 Trent Holden Brendan Sainsbury First up thanks to Matt Phillips for commis- Thanks to all the untold taxi drivers, chefs, sioning me to go to Zimbabwe, one of my hotel receptionists, tour guides and inno- all-time favourite countires in the world, as cent bystanders who helped me during this well as all the production staff for putting this research. Special thanks to Jasper and Bart together. A huge thanks to Karl Wright and in Pemba, the guys at Cinco Portas on Ibo BEHIND THE SCENES Jenny Nobes from Rhino Safari Camp for all Island, Peter at Pensão Gurúè, and the won- their assistance in getting around Matusado- derful staff at Gorongosa National Park. na and for tips and recommendations across the country – an unbelievable help! Also thanks to the following people for all their ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS time and assistance: the team from Chilo Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Gorge Lodge, Joy from Victoria Falls and Gor- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- don Addams, Ann Bruce, Tempe, Jane, Jacqui ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate and George from the Eastern Highlands. A Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System huge thanks to James S once again for taking Sciences, 11, 163344. time out to go on a road trip – I had a ball! Finally lots of love to my family, especially my Cover photograph: Two male impalas, Etienne partner Kate who allows me to travel to such Outram / 500px far-flung, exotic places. was commissioned in Lonely Austin, Sarah Bailey, Andrew THIS BOOK Planet’s London office and Bain, Judith Bamber, Michelle This 7th edition of Lonely produced by the following: Bennett, Melanie Dankel, Planet’s Southern Africa guide Destination Editor Matt Andrea Dobbin, Carly Hall, Ali was written by Anthony Ham, Phillips Lemer, Jodie Martire, Rosie Nicholson, Maja Vatrić James Bainbridge, Lucy Corne, Product Editors Kate James, Mary Fitzpatrick, Trent Holden Sandie Kestell Cover Researcher Naomi and Brendan Sainsbury. David Parker Senior Cartographer Diana Lukas wrote the text that Von Holdt Thanks to Megan Eaves, formed the basis of the Wildlife Daniel Fahey, Lauren Keith, Cartographer Rachel Imeson chapter and Jane Cornwell Kate Kiely, Anne Mason, Book Designers Mike Buick, wrote the Music in Southern Catherine Naghten, Lauren Gwen Cotter Africa chapter. This guidebook O’Connell, Kirsten Rawlings Assisting Editors Janet ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 755 Index ABBREVIATIONS Zambia 566, 610 Sterkfontain Caves (SA) Bantu people 666-9 B Botswana Zimbabwe 617, 656 463 Barra (Moz) 190 GP Game Park activities 18, 21-4, 715-18, Ziwa Ruins (Zim) 636 Basotho people 111, 112-13 GR Game Reserve see also individual architecture 675 bat-eared foxes 689, 688 activities, individual L Lesotho area codes 17 bateleurs 690, 691 locations Mal Malawi art galleries, see also bathrooms 723-4 Addo Elephant NP (SA) museums Moz Mozambique Battlefields (SA) 438-40 392-3 Ann Bryant Art Gallery N Namibia Baviaanskloof WA (SA) 384 African buffalo 685, 684 (SA) 396 Bazaruto Archipelago (Moz) NP National Park African fish eagles 690 Art Gallery (Durban, 194-5 NR National Reserve/ African penguins 693, 692 SA) 409 Nature Reserve beaches 18-19 African wild dogs 689, 705 Campbell Collections S Swaziland Camps Bay (SA) 339 Afrikaans language 741-2 (SA) 409 SA South Africa Cape Vidal (SA) 423 Agulhas NP (SA) 367 Delta Gallery (Zim) 619 WR Wildlife Reserve Chikale Beach (Mal) 133 AIDS 662-3, 672-3, 738 Hester Rupert Art WS Wildlife Sanctuary Clifton (SA) 339 air travel, see also scenic Museum (SA) 399 Coffee Bay (SA) 403 Zam Zambia flights, individual Johannesburg Art Gallery Zim Zimbabwe countries (SA) 451 Durban (SA) 408 to/from Southern Africa National Gallery of Jeffreys Bay (SA) 386 727-8 Zimbabwe (Zim) 619 Macaneta Beach (Moz) SYMBOLS Nelson Mandela 181-2 |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld within Southern Africa 730 Metropolitan Art Macuti Beach (Moz) 195 Transfrontier Park (SA) Museum (SA) 388 504 alcohol 678 Muizenberg Beach (SA) Amathole (SA) 396-8 Oliewenhuis Art Museum 336 !Kung San 743-4 (SA) 442 Anglo-Boer wars 507 Murrébuè (Moz) 223-4 Polokwane Art Museum Plettenberg Bay (SA) 377 animals, see wildlife, (SA) 481-2 A individual animals Port Alfred (SA) 395 abseiling 717-18 South African National antelopes 685 Port Elizabeth (SA) 388 Montagu (SA) 368 Gallery (SA) 327, 330 apartheid 455, 508-9 uMdloti Beach (SA) 419 Parys (SA) 446 Tatham Art Gallery (SA) aquariums Wimbi Beach (Moz) 219, Semonkong (L) 108 435 Bayworld (SA) 388 221-2 Storms River (SA) 385 Tsoko Gallery (Zim) 619 National Marine Aquarium Xai-Xai (Moz) 186 Table Mountain NP (SA) William Humphreys Art (N) 279 Zalala Beach (Moz) 205 341 Gallery (SA) 497 Stuart M Grant Tropical bearded vultures 690, 690 Victoria Falls 551 arts 674, see also individual Fish Farm (Mal) 139 countries Beira (Moz) 195-9, 196 accommodation 714-15, see Two Oceans Aquarium also individual locations ATMs 720 Bela-Bela (SA) 484-6 (SA) 331 Botswana 42, 87-8 Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 503 bicycle travel, see cycling uShaka Marine World Aus (N) 294 Bilene (Moz) 184 Lesotho 14, 97, 114 (SA) 408 birds 690-1, 707 Malawi 118, 162 archaeological sites, see Birds of Eden (SA) 377 Mozambique 169, 233 also historic sites, B birdwatching 551, 596, 707 South Africa 322, 518, 519 rock art Bambelela (SA) 485 Bangweulu Wetlands Swaziland 530, 546 Dinosaur Footprints Banda, Dr Hastings Kamuzu (Zam) 597-8 (L) 110 159-60 Boulders Penguin Colony Great Zimbabwe (Zim) 15, Banda, Joyce 160 (SA) 335 Map Pages 000 640-2, 641, 15 Bangweulu Wetlands (Zam) Bvumba Mountains 635 Photo Pages 000 Khami Ruins (Zim) 643 597-8 De Hoop NR (SA) 365 756 birdwatching continued highlights 44 Caia (Moz) 203 caracals 681, 681 Etosha NP (N) 261 history 82-3 Camdeboo NP (SA) 400-1 castles Giant’s Castle (SA) 432 holidays 91 camping 714, see also Castle of Good Hope Malawi 162 internet access 90 individual locations (SA) 326 Malolotja NR (S) 541 language 743-4, 747-8 canoeing 551, 716, see also Duwisib Castle (N) Maputo Special Reserve lesbian travellers 90 kayaking, mokoro trips, 293-4 INDEX rafting (Moz) 185 maps 90 Heinitzburg Castle Augrabies Falls NP (N) 243 Mozambique 233 money 90-1 (SA) 503 Cathedral Peak NR (SA) Namibia 309-10 national parks 86-7 B-C Kariba (Zim) 630 431 Nata Bird