● events inLondon THIS ISSUE

Shirazeh Houshiary :

IRAN ●

Veggiestan ●

The politicalcostofsanctions ●

The Hajjin London ●

Poetry ● Iran’s online war ●

PLUS February -MarchFebruary 2012 Volume 8-Number 3

£4 Reviews and | €5 ● Norouz | US$6.5 Volume 8 - Number 3 February - March 2012 £4 | €5 | US$6.5

THIS ISSUE : IRAN ● The political cost of sanctions ● Iran’s online war ● Norouz ● Shirazeh Houshiary ● Veggiestan ● The Hajj in London ● Poetry ● PLUS Reviews and events in London

Interior of the dome of the house at Dawlat Abad Garden, Home of Yazd Governor in 1750 © Dr Justin Watkins About the London Middle East Institute (LMEI) Volume 8 - Number 3 February – March 2012 Th e London Middle East Institute (LMEI) draws upon the resources of London and SOAS to provide teaching, training, research, publication, consultancy, outreach and other services related to the Middle Editorial Board East. It serves as a neutral forum for Middle East studies broadly defi ned and helps to create links between Nadje Al-Ali individuals and institutions with academic, commercial, diplomatic, media or other specialisations. SOAS With its own professional staff of Middle East experts, the LMEI is further strengthened by its academic Narguess Farzad SOAS membership – the largest concentration of Middle East expertise in any institution in Europe. Th e LMEI also Nevsal Hughes has access to the SOAS Library, which houses over 150,000 volumes dealing with all aspects of the Middle Association of European Journalists East. LMEI’s Advisory Council is the driving force behind the Institute’s fundraising programme, for which Najm Jarrah it takes primary responsibility. It seeks support for the LMEI generally and for specifi c components of its George Joff é programme of activities. Cambridge University Max Scott Gilgamesh Publishing Sarah Searight Mission Statement: British Foundation for the Study of Arabia Th e aim of the LMEI, through education and research, is to promote knowledge of all aspects of the Middle Kathryn Spellman Poots AKU and LMEI East including its complexities, problems, achievements and assets, both among the general public and with Sarah Stewart those who have a special interest in the region. In this task it builds on two essential assets. First, it is based LMEI in London, a city which has unrivalled contemporary and historical connections and communications with Ionis Th ompson the Middle East including political, social, cultural, commercial and educational aspects. Secondly, the LMEI British Foundation for the Study of Arabia is closely linked to SOAS, the only tertiary educational institution in the world whose explicit purpose is to Shelagh Weir provide education and scholarship on the whole Middle East from prehistory until today. SOAS

Co-ordinating Editor LMEI Staff: Rhiannon Edwards Administrative Assistant Director Dr Hassan Hakimian Alice Piller Roner Deputy Director and Company Secretary Dr Sarah Stewart Listings Executive Offi cer Louise Hosking Vincenzo Paci-Delton Events and Magazine Coordinator Vincenzo Paci-Delton Designer Shahla Geramipour

Th e Middle East in London is published Disclaimer: Letters to the Editor: six times a year by the London Middle East Institute at SOAS Opinions and views expressed in the Middle East Please send your letters to the editor at Publisher and in London are, unless otherwise stated, personal the LMEI address provided (see left panel) Editorial Offi ce views of authors and do not refl ect the views of their or email [email protected] Th e London Middle East Institute organisations nor those of the LMEI or the Editorial School of Oriental and African Studies Board. Although all advertising in the magazine is University of London Th ornaugh Street, Russell Square carefully vetted prior to publication, the LMEI does London WC1H 0XG not accept responsibility for the accuracy of claims United Kingdom made by advertisers. T: +44 (0)20 7898 4490 F: +44 (0)20 7898 4329 E: [email protected] SSubscriptions:ubscriptions: www.lmei.soas.ac.uk ISSN 1743-7598 To subscribe to Th e Middle East in London, please email [email protected] to request subscription information and a form. Contents

4 18 LMEI Board of Trustees IRAN POETRY Professor Paul Webley (Chairman) EDITORIAL Mimi Khalvati and Qeysar Director, SOAS Aminpour Dr John Curtis British Museum 5 selected and translated by H E Sir Vincent Fean KCVO Consul General to Jerusalem INSIGHT Narguess Farzad

Professor Ben Fortna, SOAS Th e political cost of sanctions

Professor Graham Furniss, SOAS Lord Norman Lamont REVIEWS

Mr. Alan Jenkins

Dr Karima Laachir, SOAS 7 20 Professor Annabelle Sreberny, SOAS Iran’s online war Exhibition: Th e Hajj in London Azadeh Moaveni Ionis Th ompson Dr Barbara Zollner Birkbeck College, University of London

LMEI Advisory Council 9 22 Lady Barbara Judge (Chair) Norouz Film: Mourning Professor Muhammad A. S. Abdel Haleem Rashna Writer Mohammad Mirbashiri Near and Middle East Department, SOAS H E Khalid Al-Duwaisan GVCO Ambassador, Embassy of the State of Kuwait 11 23 Mrs Haifa Al Kaylani Arab International Women’s Forum Iran Heritage Foundation Books in brief Dr Khalid Bin Mohammed Al Khalifa President, University College of Bahrain Armin Yavari Professor Tony Allan 24 King’s College and SOAS 12 OBITUARY Dr Alanoud Alsharekh LMEI and Fellow, St Antony’s College A window into the mind of an Alexander (Sandy) Morton Mr Farad Azima artist George Lane Iran Heritage Foundation Professor Doris Behrens-Abouseif Shirazeh Houshiary speaks about Art and Archaeology Department, SOAS her work 25 Dr Noel Brehony MENAS Associates Ltd. Narguess Farzad EVENTS IN LONDON Mr Charles L. O. Buderi Curtis, Mallet-Prevost, Colt & Mosle LLP Dr Elham Danish 14 Royal Embassy of Saudi Arabia Veggiestan Mr Kasim Kutay Moelis & Company Vegetables in Middle Eastern Mr Rod Sampson Barclays Wealth, Dubai cuisine Sally Butcher Founding Sponsor and Member of the Advisory Council 16 Sheikh Mohamed bin Issa al Jaber Norouz around the world MBI Al Jaber Foundation Baqer Moin

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 3 EEDITORIALDITORIAL © James Morris

DDearear RReadereader

Shirazeh Houshiary, Undoing the Knot (2008) Lisson Gallery

Narguess Farzad and Sarah Stewart

f you search newspaper headlines on New Year – a national day, with its roots in a bustling market cafe. Sally Butcher looks Iran since the elections of 2009 they pre-Islamic Iran that today transcends geo- at the history and rich variety of traditional Imake for a grim read. So far this year, in political boundaries. Iranians both religious vegetarian food from the region which has January alone, little seems to have changed: and secular, as well as communities living established its own place on the London Why Iran could start the next global recession in the ‘Persianate world’, celebrate Norouz in culinary scene. (January 5), Iranian court sentences 'CIA the various ways that it has evolved through In the review section Ionis Th ompson agent' to death (January 9), Iran bans MPs the centuries, including in its most ancient takes us behind the scenes of the much from standing for re-election to parliament and traditional forms. Both the historical anticipated Hajj exhibition at the British (January 10), Iran nuclear scientist killed in and the contemporary approaches to this Museum, which gives a comprehensive, Tehran motorbike bomb attack (January 11), festival are outlined in this issue by Rashna visual account of the journey, the rituals UK businessman loses extradition fi ght over Writer and Baqer Moin respectively. and what it means for those who have alleged export of arms to Iran (January 13). Poetry, cinema and painting bear witness undertaken the pilgrimage to Mecca. All Th e Middle East in London this month goes to the continued creative engagement with other forthcoming Middle East related some way to present another face of Iran, the arts by Iranians, whether living in Iran programmes are as usual listed in the Events while not entirely overlooking the fi rst. Our or abroad. Th e artistic contributions by in London section. attention is drawn to the sober side of the Iranians in Britain are oft en viewed as a It is with immense sadness that we current situation in Iran vis-à-vis the West fusion of the two cultures. Th e accuracy mark the death of Sandy Morton with an by Lord Lamont’s analysis of the political of this assumption is considered in the obituary by George Lane. Sandy will long cost of sanctions, while the writer and interview with the painter and sculptor be remembered at SOAS and beyond with journalist Azadeh Moaveni explores the war Shirazeh Houshiary and the work of the great aff ection and held in high esteem for waged by the Iranian government against poet Mimi Khalvati. his contribution to many fi elds of Persian its citizens' use of the internet. As usual, the magazine off ers an insight studies. A memorial service will be held for A magazine issue on Iran at this time into the Middle Eastern love aff air with him at St George's Bloomsbury on February of year would be incomplete without its cuisine and the ritual preparation of 9 at 4pm, followed by a reception. Further highlighting the Norouz festival of the food, whether for a special occasion or in details will be posted on the LMEI website.

4 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 IINSIGHTNSIGHT

Lord Norman Lamont discusses why economic sanctions against Iran are fuelling instability in both domestic policy and international relations TThehe ppoliticalolitical ccostost ooff ssanctionsanctions © UKinIsrael

Ehud Barak, Israeli Defence Minister, seen here in 2010 with William Hague, says Iran does not pose a threat to Israel

elations between Iran and the West negotiate with Iran. But is that a correct Islamic Republic as an attempt to bring the have recently entered a new highly analysis? economy and country to complete collapse. Rdangerous phase with Iranian talk of Th e latest spat has been caused by the It is diffi cult to argue that sanctioning the blocking the Straits of Hormuz. Th is comes threat to impose sanctions on Iran’s Central Central Bank is a targeted measure that will aft er the ransacking of the British Embassy Bank. Britain and the USA have already have no eff ect on the general population. and Iranian tests of new missiles. Th e done this and France is urging the EU to Th e new sanctions followed the IAEA Iranian regime has also become increasingly follow. Th is will make it more diffi cult for report on Iran’s nuclear programme which repressive; more political prisoners, Iran to receive payment for its oil exports. voiced ‘increasing concern’ and highlighted executions and show-trials. Many people Given the massive dependency of Iran on possible areas of weapons-related work. But will conclude it is hopeless trying to oil, this sanction has been regarded by the reaction to the report was not unanimous and divided along predictable lines with Sanctions are creating a freak economy with ever support from those already wanting more more state control. Th ey hit the private sector rather sanctions and scepticism expressed by others as to whether the report contained than the public, and small fi rms rather than large anything new.

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 5 Iran will use sanctions and threats from than religion. Iran extradites Chechin Muslim fi ghters back to Russia. Iran has abroad as an excuse to increase repression a close partnership with neighbouring Christian Armenia. Th ere is no evidence Behind the nuclear issue lies the fear of Iran will use sanctions and threats from that Iran has territorial designs on any Israel, alarmed by the rhetoric of President abroad as an excuse to increase repression, country in the Middle East, and it has Ahmadinejad. But Ehud Barak, the former just as, with greater reason, it used the repeatedly rejected accusations that it has Prime Minister and Meir Dagan, the former invasion by Iraq as a reason to clamp down. any on Bahrain. Most strikingly, Iran gave head of Mossad, have said that Iran does Some doubt whether the Islamic Republic assistance to America when it invaded not necessarily pose an ‘existential threat’ would have survived were it not for the Afghanistan, but its only reward was being to Israel. What a nuclear Iran could do war. Similarly, any military attack on Iran dubbed the ‘Axis of Evil’. is seriously curtail Israel’s ability to take would help the Islamic leadership regain Iran has plenty of reasons to feel nervous military action against its Arab neighbours. its lost legitimacy and might not be entirely about its own security with US troops, Th e danger of the present situation can unwelcome. until recently, stationed in two of its hardly be overstated. Th ere seems little In the UK, we have learned over a long neighbouring countries, and a strong US reason for optimism without a sharp change period of time that the ‘Irish problem’ was naval presence still off its coast. Iranian in direction by either or both sides. Th e deeply rooted in history and we decided paranoia is fed by politicians like Newt European Union, with Britain in the lead, to negotiate with people we regarded as Gingrich, calling for ‘deniable covert has followed the United States in a policy extremists. Th e West seems unable to see operations’ in Iran combined with ‘targeted which seems unlikely to produce the desired that the problem between Iran and the assassinations’. To the Iranians, that must results. Th e carrot and stick approach has West goes back a long way. Th e United already seem to be happening, with nuclear been tried so oft en before with Iran and States is ‘Th e Great Satan’ but Britain is its scientists being mysteriously murdered in has repeatedly failed. Why should it be any oldest enemy. Iran made several attempts the street. diff erent this time? at democracy which were snuff ed out by Th e West is pressing Iran on the one issue Th is is not to say that sanctions have had Britain and the US: the 1906 revolution that unites much Iranian public opinion. no eff ect. Th e Iranian riyal has collapsed, and the 1953 coup against Mossadegh. If Iran is to be coaxed towards further co- there are deep problems in the banking Th ere are most of all, bitter memories of operation with the IAEA and abandoning system, businessmen cannot get imports, the West’s support for Saddam Hussein any nuclear weapons research, it will only infl ation is much higher than offi cially during the national trauma of the Iraq war be on the basis of negotiations aimed more stated and unemployment, particularly which led to at least 125,000 to 200,000 widely than the nuclear issue. Th ese will among the young, is rising. Much of this dead Iranians. When Iran tried to draw the have to take account of Iran’s own security is due to mismanagement of the economy. world’s attention to Saddam’s use of WMD concerns and what it sees as its rightful Sanctions undoubtedly have had an eff ect (chemical weapons), the West and the UN political place in the region. Th e leadership but that is diff erent from producing the turned a blind eye. of Iran may be increasingly repressive, desired political change. Th e United States has a tendency to see but that does not mean that we could not Sanctions are creating a freak economy the hand of Iran everywhere. When Saddam negotiate with them just as the US did with with ever more state control. Th ey hit the Hussein gassed the Kurds at Halabja, the China, despite the latter’s human rights private sector rather than the public, and fi rst reaction of the State Department was to record. Th e West may fi nd it needs to try a small fi rms rather than large. Many fi rms blame Iran. Th e United States also blamed new approach. are driven into bankruptcy or the arms of Iran for the unrest in Bahrain in 2011 para-state organisations. Short of supplies, even though no evidence has ever been Lord Lamont of Lerwick is Chairman of the fi rms ally themselves with those who can produced. British Iranian Chamber of Commerce and is smuggle goods, usually the Revolutionary Th e Islamic Republic may be theocratic a former Chancellor of the Exchequer Guards. Th e regime promotes tortuous domestically but in its foreign policy it has measures of import substitution and is been motivated more by national interest happy to preach ‘self-suffi ciency’ recalling © Dean Calma / IAEA as it does so, the glory of the state of siege during the Iraq War. Iran is not North Korea. It is a lively cosmopolitan country whose people travel freely in and out. Th e policy of the West increasingly seems to cut Iran off from contact with the outside world to make it like a greater Gaza. But, of course, Iran is far too big a country to be so locked up. What purpose is served by refusing a leading Iranian fi lm-maker a visa to come to the UK or refusing airlines, travelling legally to Iran, permission to refuel at Heathrow? Th e The IAEA Forum on the regime may be unattractive but cutting it off Middle East as a nuclear- from the outside world only helps it. weapon-free zone, 2011

6 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 IIRANRAN

Azadeh Moaveni examines how the internet has become an ever more important front in the Iranian regime’s battle for state control

IIran’sran’s oonlinenline wwarar © Noure Azadi © Noure

hen the Iranian government supporters of the American-Israeli ‘fetna’ Activists, journalists, and scholars inside cracked down in the aft ermath (sedition) it believed was behind the unrest. Iran were shaken by the crackdown, nervous Wof President Mahmoud Th e government had aggressively that the 2009 unrest had fundamentally Ahmadinejad's contested 2009 re-election, it controlled internet access and expression altered the regime's tolerance for online did so with almost cinematic vividness. Th e for years, slowing down connection speeds, debate. Despite its harsh treatment of iconic scenes of the uprising – the shooting blocking websites and 'un-Islamic' search activists and critics in daily life, the of Neda Agha Soltan on a Tehran street, the terms, and harassing bloggers. But the government had been surprisingly generous baton assaults on kerchiefed matrons and election unrest in 2009 prompted the with the content it permitted online. Before fashionable, green-clad teenagers – grabbed regime to adopt new means of online 2009, about 80-90 per cent of secular and held the world's attention. But while repression altogether. Within weeks, the or reformist-minded blogs were visible, mobile phone footage of those moments campaign knocked hundreds of blogs according to a study by Harvard's Berkman created a fi rst draft of history composed in offl ine, threatening to close down the free- Center for Internet and Society. YouTube, much of the regime's response wheeling, voluminous public salon known For a brief period following the 2009 unfolded invisibly. as the Iranian blogosphere – the last space unrest, the state's campaign to limit In the weeks following the where Iranians could exchange ideas with opposition discourse by hounding demonstrations that came to be known relative freedom, and practise the engaged, individual bloggers appeared successful. as the Green Movement, government critical mindset that had fl ourished within Th e democratic-minded, secular Iranians censors and hackers sought out their the country itself during previous, brief whose presence had lent the blogosphere opponents online. Th e blocking of Twitter periods of political openness. its impressive diversity seemed endangered and Facebook caught the Western media's attention, but these sites, while highly useful to small circles of activists, were never the Th e ‘halal’ internet, designed to eventually replace citizens' government's primary targets. Instead, the regime systematically began tracing and access to the internet altogether, is the regime's most targeting individual bloggers it deemed as ambitious attempt to control access to online information

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 7 as never before. But not for long. Th eir As the regime's anxiety mounts in the run up to blogs soon returned online in new forms, appearing on Western hosting parliamentary elections, security forces are widening their platforms and making greater use of control of the internet, hoping to stave off potential unrest readily exportable publishing soft ware like WordPress. Th e independent bloggers were back and on new perches from which they peaked in 2010, energised by the challenge of members across Iran's multiple security could not so easily be swatted down. ‘It was posed by the Green Movement and the arms, announced a new clampdown in early like a game of whack-a-mole that resulted in periodic street unrest that followed. Its January on internet expression. Th e new an amazing replenishment of the opposition decline, however, is harder to explain. measures decreed that all customers using side of the online network,’ says John Kelly, a Th e simplest answer would be to draw internet cafes must provide their name, scientist who heads Morningside Analytics, conclusions from a timeline: with the Green address, and national ID numbers, and a fi rm that monitors online networks and Movement itself extinguished (or lying require cybercafe owners to log customers' co-author of the Harvard report. Kelly quietly under the embers, depending on browsing history and install CCTV cameras monitored Iran's online networks in the one's feelings), militant, Basij-connected to monitor users. aft ermath of 2009 post-election unrest, bloggers no longer feel as compelled to exert Th e new rules have coincided with Iran's and noted that soon both sides of Iran's themselves. But the ideological worldview of announcement that its ‘halal’ internet ideological divide had resumed their brisk the Basij, and that of the hard-line clerics it initiative – a domestic intranet that would activity. follows, holds that Iran is culturally besieged provide a virtual buff er between Iranians But over the past year, another striking at all times by the existence of secular, and the polluted, un-Islamic culture of shift has slowly become apparent in the westernised Iranians who would turn the the global internet – will go live by early blogosphere: conservative, state-driven country into Turkey overnight if given a February. Th e ‘halal’ internet, designed blogging activity – known sometimes chance. And with Iran facing a European to eventually replace citizens' access to the as the Cyber Shia or Cyber Basij – is oil embargo and mounting pressure over internet altogether, is the regime's most waning. Eff orts to propel young Basij and its nuclear programme, the country seems ambitious attempt to control access to conservative youth onto the internet date more vulnerable and isolated by the day. online information. Offi cials describe it as back to Ahmadinejad's fi rst term, when the Hardly the time for the nation's most fervid a parallel system for ordinary Iranians, and regime identifi ed the internet as a key front defenders, as the Basij view themselves, to have said that only government ministries, in the ‘soft war’ it believed its enemies were become distracted. banks, and major businesses with offi cial using to bring about regime change. Th at If the militia's name, Basij, literally means or commercial duties would be permitted eff ort gained momentum in 2009, when mobilisation, one reason for the contracting access to the global internet. the Revolutionary Guards formed its own online activity might be that mobilisation With the country's key parliamentary Cyber Army charged with putting 10,000 just isn't happening. If local commanders vote around the corner, these measures Basiji blogs online. Th is Basij online activity are not pushing online duties at weekly underscore the regime's fears of street unrest meetings, the absence of clear directives and renewed protest. But they also refl ect or cash incentives could mean that Basiji its more profound nervousness around Iranians in France protest in support of youth are reverting to their organic offl ine the internet itself, and its awareness that democracy in Iran, 2009 behaviour. Most young Basijs hail from its many layers of repression and control poorer backgrounds, and many would have not achieved their goals. Despite not tend to have personal computers and vast expenditure, the government hasn't internet connections at home; blogging managed to prevent Iranians from accessing would involve the discipline of regular trips the Western and global culture they crave; to cybercafes and the eff ort of producing it has failed eff ectively to block the online original or retrieving scripted content. tools they use to organise and document Without regular remuneration, only the protests; and its state-funded Basij blogs most zealous Basij members would keep up have gone ignored by the mainstream their labours. blogosphere. It remains to be seen whether Th e Cyber Army may be relaxing its the national intranet will fi nally turn around contributions to the blogosphere, but as the this string of failures, or simply be another regime's anxiety mounts in the run up to feeble attempt to control a tidal wave with a parliamentary elections in March, security sink plug. forces are widening their control of the internet and targeting users again, hoping Azadeh Moaveni is a former Middle East to stave off potential unrest. Th e March 2 correspondent for Time magazine and has election will be the fi rst major vote in Iran reported on Iran since 1999. She is the author since 2009's contested election, and the of Lipstick Jihad, Honeymoon in Tehran authorities are preparing a ‘readiness’ to and co-author, with Shirin Ebadi, of Iran warn university students and opposition Awakening supporters from turning out in protest. To that end, the Cyber Police, formed

© H de C in 2011 and comprising tens of thousands

8 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 IIRANRAN

Rashna Writer explains the origins and traditions of the Persian New Year celebrations NNorouzorouz © Justin Watkins

A Zoroastrian temple in Yazd

mong the most auspicious days Norouz. Zarathustra is thought to have guardians and protectors of the seven in the calendar of Iranian peoples imposed only two obligations on his good creations: Sky, Water, Earth, Plants, Aand their descendants is March 21, followers: the individual one of praying fi ve Cattle, Man and Fire. Th e 7th festival is the Norouz – the Persian New Year – which has times daily, and the communal celebration last convivial occasion of the old year and come to symbolise the Iranian peoples, and of the seven seasonal festivals. marks the start of the New Year, and hence harks back to when Iran was Zoroastrian. Th e seven high feasts are dedicated to came to be known later as Norouz, the ‘New Indeed, the antiquity of Norouz is integral the creator, Ahura Mazda, and the seven Day’. Springtime in the cycle of life is an to Persian mythology. We are told that creations, the Amesha Spentas. Th ese Holy important period as it represents the annual the mythical King Jamshid, blessed with Immortals perform a dual role. Th ey form resurgence of life. As such, it is deemed to farr-i izadi (Divine Glory) ruled the world the kernel of the ethical infrastructure be a day of renewal, hope and joy. Pahlavi during a golden age which will once again of the Zoroastrian doctrine, and are the texts, dating to the Sasanian dynasty (224 be restored at the end of time; while the Zoroastrian tradition informs us that the festival was founded by Zarathustra himself A sense of renewal is characteristic of Norouz celebrations, who, it is held, received his revelation on and celebrating the Frashegird is essentially a joyous occasion

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 9 CE-651CE), refer to the signifi cance of While variations in the celebration of Norouz may have spring in connection with thoughts of Frasho-kereti/Frashegird, or the renovation occurred, the durability of the festival itself is remarkable of the world.

‘Th e making of Frashegird is like the year, ‘auspicious’ lunch of rice, dar and fi sh patia. not attempt to abolish Norouz in favour in which at springtime the trees are made to While the Parsis do not prepare a Haft of any other celebration, which helps blossom... Like the resurrection of the dead, Sin table, the sesh, a silver tray is dressed explains the totemic signifi cance of the great new leaves are made to shoot from dry with a container of rose water, betel nut, a celebration, which is more widespread than plants and trees, and springtime is made to handful of raw rice, sugar, fl owers, a picture is generally believed. Countries that were blossom.’ (Zadspram XXXIV. 0.27) of Zarathustra, and an afargania, the silver once territories of, or infl uenced by, the urn which holds a small fi re nourished by Persian Empire, ranging from Afghanistan, A sense of renewal is characteristic of sandalwood and other fragrant resins. Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Azerbaijan, Norouz celebrations, and celebrating the While variations in the celebration of Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Frashegird is essentially a joyous occasion. Norouz may have occurred among peoples the Uighurs in north-western China, all New clothes, music, food all play their part. of Iran dispersed by time and place, the have their distinctive Norouz celebration to A reference from a text believed to date durability of the festival itself is remarkable. welcome the spring equinox on March 21. from the Parthian era (247 BCE-224 CE), Th e central role of Norouz in Iranian What began essentially as a celebration Vis u Ramin paints a picture: peoples’ aff ections meant that following of the Zoroastrian year, associated with the introduction of Islam to Iran, from the 7th creation of Fire, which in turn is ‘Th ough the king’s banquet was splendid, the 7th CE century, the new rulers found linked to Asha Vahista (Best Truth), a others were no less so... Everyone had gone they could not dislodge this essentially festival celebrated by Iran’s monarchs and from his house to the country... From every Zoroastrian celebration. In fact, Norouz their subjects, came to be so rooted in the garden, fi eld and river a diff erent variety of was honoured even by the early founders aff ections of the Iranian nation that it was music charmed the ear.’ (Vis u Ramin, 20). of Islam; there are records of the four Great impossible to dislodge from the calendar. Caliphs presiding over Norouz celebrations, Indeed, the genius of Norouz, as we know And it was the custom, as much in times and Norouz came to be adopted as the it, is the universality and secularity of its long past as it remains to this day, to sow for main royal holiday during the Abbasid era. message – man’s aim of Frasho-kereti of the this 7th feast seven kinds of seeds, to come Following the demise of the Caliphate, the good creation, symbolised by the spring up fresh and green on Norouz itself: subsequent elevation and re-emergence of equinox, marking the end of winter and the Persian dynasties, especially the Saminids refreshing of the season. ‘For the king the sight of growing barley and Buyds, elevated Norouz to a higher was particularly deemed a blessing... And level. Th e Buyids revived the ancient Rashna Writer is a Senior Teaching Fellow in the harvest (of these green shoots) was traditions of Sasanian times, and restored the Department of Religions at SOAS never gathered but with songs and music many smaller celebrations that had been and mirth.’ eliminated by the Caliphate. Even the Turkish and Mongol invaders of Iran did Th is is the genesis of the Haft Sin table, so emblematic of Norouz itself, composed © Felix Gonzales of the seven ‘Ss’ in the Persian alphabet. Each family dresses its Haft Sin table to correspond to the seven Amesha Spentas. In addition, a few coins representing prosperity, a basket of painted eggs for fertility, candles for enlightenment, a fl ask of rose water known for its magical power, a prayer book and a picture of the Prophet Zarathustra, in Zoroastrian homes, adorn the table. Th e small group of Zoroastrians domiciled in India and known as the Parsis, have for generations celebrated ‘Jamshedi Norouz’ in their distinctive way. Th e day begins with a visit to the fi re temple, before which the family has breakfasted on ravo, semolina pudding, followed by a typically

A traditional Haft Sin table

10 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 IIRANRAN IranIran HHeritageeritage FFoundationoundation

To mark the commencement of the IHF-SOAS Institutional Partnership, The Middle East in London has invited Armin Yavari to summarise the Foundation’s activities

libraries and universities when it comes to the planning and execution of projects and programmes related to the Persianate world. A clear indication of this is the rapid growth of the Foundation’s landmark Institutional Partnerships Programme (or IPP). Th e Institutional Partnerships Programme provides much needed support for fellowships, teaching positions and research centres dedicated to Iranian studies at respected academic institutions. It also underwrites curatorships in Iranian art at major cultural institutions. As funding for such programmes has suff ered signifi cant reductions in recent years, Iran Heritage Foundation’s support through its IPPs has become a vital means of sustaining Iranian studies and arts in the UK and abroad. Current partners include the universities of © IHF Cambridge, Edinburgh and St Andrews, the An IHF reception at the Shahnameh Fitzwilliam Museum, 2010 British Library, the Freer Gallery of Art, the British Museum and the V & A. ased in London, Iran Heritage tenth anniversary in 2005 also were the Th e Foundation’s pioneering digitisation Foundation (IHF) is a leading critically acclaimed Forest Without Leaves initiatives mark another area of activity. Bsupporter of Iranian and Persian installation, Trees in Snow exhibition, fi lm Th ey include the Golha Project, which has studies in the world today. A UK-registered, retrospective, workshop and conference on created a free online database containing non-political charity, it is dedicated to Abbas Kiarostami at the V & A Museum. the complete archive of all 1,616 Golha enhancing awareness and recognition More recently, the Fitzwilliam Museum in radio programmes produced between of Iran’s culture and history, and helping Cambridge played host to an impressive 1956 and 1979, a veritable encyclopaedia celebrate, preserve and advance the diversity collection of Persian miniatures in its Epic of classical Persian poetry and music while of languages, traditions, arts, literature and of the Persian Kings: Th e Art of Ferdowsi’s at the British Library, a full-time curator achievements of Iran and the Persian world. Shahnameh exhibition (supported by IHF) has been recruited to catalogue and digitise Th e Foundation interprets its remit as did the Museum of Islamic Art in Berlin, the Persian manuscripts in its collections, broadly and actively facilitates and initiates which celebrated the millennium of the which total over 10,000. a wide range of programmes both in the Shahnameh with its own comprehensive Th is year, the Foundation is delighted academic sphere and the public. During display. Moreover, Iran Heritage to announce that it has established SOAS its 16 years, it has organised or supported Foundation’s commitment to the provision as one of its IPPs. Home to the Centre 53 conferences, 52 multi disciplinary of public lectures delivered by world-class for Iranian Studies, this partnership will events and exhibitions, and 72 fi lm and experts continues apace with recent topics build on a long-standing collaborative performing arts festivals and events. In including 16th century manuscripts from relationship that began with the ground 2001, the Foundation organised the fi rst- Shiraz, the literature of Forough Farrokhzad, breaking exhibition Royal Persian Paintings: ever major exhibition of contemporary Persian poetry and the Shahnameh. Th e Qajar Epoch 1785-1925 in 1999. Two Iranian art in Europe, while in 2005 and Since the Foundation’s inception in four-monthly visiting fellowships will be 2009, it partnered the British Museum 1995, it has left an indelible imprint on the awarded per annum to a scholar of any for the exhibitions Forgotten Empire: fi elds of Iranian and Persian studies and in discipline within Iranian and Persian Th e World of Ancient Persia and Shah the promotion of Persian culture through studies. Abbas: Th e Remaking of Iran both of a worldwide collaborative eff ort with which featured loans facilitated by IHF, many eminent cultural and educational Armin Yavari is research assistant at IHF including artefacts never before displayed institutions. IHF is widely considered as outside Iran. Marking the Foundation’s the partner of choice for many museums,

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 11 IIRANRAN

Inspired by viewing her work, Narguess Farzad speaks to fellow Iranian and artist Shirazeh Houshiary A windowwindow iintonto tthehe mmindind ooff aann aartistrtist © James Morris

t Martin-in-the-Fields, the magnifi cent been years since I had actually gone inside yet fi nely craft ed lattice work of stainless 18th century baroque church the church. A while ago I decided to walk steel and submerged the altar below in a sea Sdominating the north-east corner of up the portico and into the church itself of radiance. I was overwhelmed not just by Trafalgar Square, is not only famous for its and quite unexpectedly, I was greeted by the powerful beauty of the piece but also association with soldiers returning from the the most poignant and yet uplift ing sight: by a sense of pride that the window was First World War, but also for its outstanding the east window, newly designed, by the designed by an Iranian artist. Houshiary’s eff orts to bring hope and practical help to Iranian-born artist, Shirazeh Houshiary. contemporary composition of colourless the homeless. More recently, its sunken Somewhere in the back of my mind ‘stained glass’ for St Martin-in-the-Fields courtyard and the cafe in the crypt have I recalled the press coverage about the is unquestionably a piece of religious art. also become a hip central London venue for controversy surrounding the re-design of Th e spacing between the warps and weft s meeting friends or enjoying free lunchtime the window and the choice of artist. Most of steel trellis at the centre of the frame is concerts and evenings of jazz. Once in a of the uproar seemed to have died down reduced, drawing the eye immediately to while, on my way from SOAS to the British prior to the unveiling of it in early 2008. the unmistakable presence of a cross, where, Institute of Persian Studies, I drop into the Looking up at the window that day, the late nestling at its heart is a central ellipse, gently shop below the glass pavilion but it had morning light poured through the simple leaning, evoking the vulnerable tilt of the head of Christ. But it would be limiting to I like to fragment the surfaces and capture call the piece just a work of Christian art, as it speaks equally to the longing of mankind the essence of life that cannot be pinned down, for a soothing invocation of tranquility, just as water, which has no form and no colour regardless of adherence to any particular

12 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 faith. Th e impression was of a yearning I am fortunate to be an artist. I am passionate about for transcendent light, a sense of freedom beyond, a sense of bending the bars of art and have worked hard at it-but it is just like love; our personal prisons and giving solace to an all consuming, visceral love that fulfi ls my life incarcerated innocents that ‘stone walls do not a prison make, nor iron bars a cage’. Houshiary was born in 1955 in the upbringings but realised at once that and rather than presenting a sense of Iranian city of Shiraz. Aft er moving to looking for familiar Persian or Islamic solidity they seem as if they are evaporating, Britain she studied at the Chelsea School signposts to her work would not get me very depicting a sense of motion and breathing. of Art and became a junior fellow at the far and would be a very limiting approach to I like to fragment the surfaces and capture Cardiff College of Art. It was not long before understanding the expression of her ideas. the essence of life that cannot be pinned Shirazeh was established at the forefront Indeed, when I suggested that she is one down, just as water, which has no form and of the younger generation of sculptors of the most successful Iranian artists of all no colour but can take any form and any working in Britain in the 1980s, including time, she protested that she has an intense colour. As if to say the indefi nable is life Tony Cragg and Anish Kapoor. Over the dislike of labels and subjective limitations, itself.’ years, her works have been exhibited in the and added: ‘being labelled an Iranian Some of the most exquisite paintings by show Without Boundary: Seventeen Ways of imposes an immediate boundary on me and Houshiary are large, abstract layers of text, Looking at Th e Museum of Modern Art in my work. I am a citizen of this earth and I oft en consisting of just two words, written New York in 2006, as well as in exhibitions hope my work transcends national, cultural delicately repeatedly and crushed together, throughout the world, most recently at the and religious stereotypes.’ in white, red or blue graphite pencil on Lisson Gallery in London. Houshiary was I suggested to Houshiary that artists black or white aquacryl, creating an illusion shortlisted for the Turner Prize in 1994 who have left their homelands and live of a diaphanous veil or fi ne chain-mail and was awarded the title Professor at the abroad surely take with them attachments quivering and vibrating on the canvas and London Institute in 1997. She has been and memories that, although over time evaporating at the edges. Th e unmistakable living and working in London for more fuse with their surroundings, will always spirit of movement and the sense of than three and half decades. reveal the cultural DNA of the artist. By respiratory expansion and contraction are Her work has always contained a way of illustration I pointed to the fact also a feature of Houshiary’s sculptures. distinctive spiritual edge and critics have that many of her paintings and sculptures Many are made of a combination of solid suggested that her art is strongly infl uenced exude a sense of spiritualism refl ected in and hollow metallic bricks, layered in a slow by Persian mysticism and culture. To fi nd non-vocal chants and spiralling movements. dance of movement, held together with out more about her work and inspirations, Houshiary refl ected that her father oft en no visible adhesive. She is also continuing I contacted her. Knowing how fi ercely said one should not fi ght one’s genes but she work on a series of video animations that she protects her privacy I was not certain suggested that the word spiritual has been she began in 2003. I told Houshiary I was that she would agree to meet me and ‘abused’. She reiterated that her concerns exhausted just listing the media she works was delighted when she got in touch and are ‘human’ and if her attempts to ‘unveil in and trying to count the number of her suggested that I visit her at her studio. the invisible’ are reminiscent of the poetry recent works. Leaning back in her chair, While making tentative small talk over of Rumi, for example, it is because there is she fi xed me with her gentle, dark eyes tea I tried to tease out some connections an agitation and frenzy that informs both. and said: ‘I am fortunate to be an artist. I between our shared early Iranian ‘My paintings have shimmering surfaces am passionate about art and have worked hard at it — but it is just like love; an all consuming, visceral love that fulfi ls my life’, and lest we assume that hers has been an eff ortless journey, she adds: ‘I have gone to hell and back to be where I am today’. A few days aft er the interview, I returned to St Martin-in-the-Fields to look again at Houshiary’s creation. It more than adequately accomplishes its brief: ‘to successfully animate the light’. Whether it annoys Shirazeh Houshiary or not, I confess to having felt an inch or two taller as I observed the expression of delight and wonder on the faces of other visitors, and basked in an immense sense of pride (Opposite) Shirazeh that the artist stirring such emotions is an Houshiary in her studio Iranian. with a model of the St Martin-in-the-Fields installation, 2011 Narguess Farzad is a member of the MEL Editorial Board (Left) Shirazeh Houshiary, Altar (2011) St Martin-in-

© James Morris the-Fields, London

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 13 IIRANRAN © YukiSugura Sally Butcher discusses the variety for vegetable lovers to be found in Middle Eastern cuisine

VVeggiestaneggiestan

am sipping black tea in Abu Zaad, the rather excellent restaurant owned and Irun by the Damas Gate mini-empire in Shepherd’s Bush. I want to know how it is that they make the best ful medames in town. I am slightly anxious, as the place is thronging with a pleasant mix of Arab families and locals ‘in the know’, and I am aware that the last thing a hard-working chef usually wants during service is to come and talk to a gauche food writer. To chef Ismail. He removes his chef’s hat and from the tip of Yemen to the northernmost my surprise the chef agrees to answer my scratches his head. point of Kazakhstan. Th e concept of questions. Aft er a lot of fun-but-unhelpful ‘Not even a little bit of meat?’ he asks, in vegetarianism may not actually be an smiling and hand waving, it quickly perfect English. anathema to the residents of the region, but becomes obvious that we need a translator, it is certainly a puzzle to most of them. Th e and so before long the head waiter, kitchen *the secret is bicarbonate of soda, by world’s fi rst form of animal farming (sheep, porter and a random man standing at the the way: it helps the fuls achieve perfect since you ask) started in the area we roughly takeaway counter have all joined me at my tenderness know as Kurdistan today. Meat is both rather small (but beautifully laid) table. embedded in their cuisine (the use of allyah ‘Tell me, if you would be so kind, how you VEGGIESTAN. Literally: land of the – fat from fat –tailed sheep – is subsiding a make your ful medames. Would you share vegetables. Th ere is of course no such word, little, but if you look at al-Baghdadi’s Kitab your secret recipe?* I am writing a cook and no such country. ‘-stan’ is a common al-Tabikh even vegetable recipes begin book....’ Persian suffi x, and is applied to all sorts of with a generous scoop of the stuff ) and A fl urry of rapid Arabic ensues. My nations, both physical and conceptual – a luxury that cannot always be aff orded. pristine note-pad (which is for show as I Englistan (England, of course), Arabistan Many dishes that are now perceived as rarely take notes) is seized, and a recipe of (all of the Arab lands put together), kohestan more or less vegetarian (soups, casseroles) sorts starts to emerge. Aft er a lot of crossing (any mountainous territory) or (perhaps were originally devised as a way of making out and apparent disagreement, the pad is most alluringly) gulistan (a rose garden). a little meat (bones) stretch a long way. So put back in front of me, bearing a complete It is not a term that would necessarily it is hard for Middle Easterners such as our and surprisingly legible recipe. And some spring to mind when describing the Middle Syrian chef friend to grasp the idea of a life smeared tomato puree. East. For that is loosely the area which it is without meat; when something is a hard- ‘Chef Ismail Abou Basel would like to designed to conjure – the band leading from won commodity, and times are diffi cult, know more about your book,’ says the head Morocco in the west across to Kashmir, and why would one choose to eschew it? waiter. ‘Well, it’s vegetarian. And Middle Eastern,’ I smile. It is a well known fact that houmous holds the fabric ‘What, with no meat in it?’ Consternation all round the table. Someone translates for of the vegetarian space-time continuum together

14 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 It is of course also true that some of the Vegetables, pulses and grains are not played world’s most fabulous vegetable creations come out of Veggiestan. It is a well-known with, overcooked, preened and fanned into silly shapes: fact that houmous holds the fabric of the they are prepared in a way that preserves both their vegetarian space-time continuum together. Without it the vegetarian race would face innate goodness and their unique fl avour a grim existence: what else could they possibly put in their sandwiches or stick their crudités in? And what about falafel? and served: steamed, salted artichokes, and unimaginative veg. Th ere is more to the Tabouleh? Baba Ghanoush? Like many sautéed aubergines or peppers in olive oil, region than doner and shish kebabs. Th ink cuisines that have not entirely evolved beans stewed gently with onions and herbs. boiled salted turnips, fl ame-grilled corn- beyond their own borders, cooking Plain, perfect food. Even with the more cobs, spiced broad beans still steaming in remains in many ways simple and unfussy, complex mezze classics – dips and dolmeh their pods and any number of fresh, green although I defy any chef to make perfect for example – it is the vegetarian elements nuts. Want something more fanciful? Try kibbeh (Levantine croquettes) or Persian that are allowed to do all the talking. bouregi (little Turkish pies) or boulanee pulao (posh rice) without at least fi ve years’ Persian home-cooking is largely built (little Afghan pies), or any number of practice. Vegetables, pulses and grains on the concept of the khoresh – a stew warming lentil soups (every country has are not played with, overcooked, preened (literally ‘sauce’) of meat and vegetables. one). and fanned into silly shapes: they are But so full is the fl avour of the herbs, spices, A surprising irony is the fact that Muslim prepared in a way that preserves both their vegetables and fruit therein that usually the Veggiestanis in the diaspora have really innate goodness and their unique fl avour. meat element pales into the background. rather a lot in common with vegetarians; Nowhere is this more obvious than with the Th ese dishes are easy to recreate without in the aisles of Western supermarkets they concept of mezze (which is derived from meat, and are a rich source of new ideas for are thrown together. Both are to be found the Persian word mazeh meaning ‘taste’). the adventurous vegetarian (or cookbook anxiously checking ingredients looking for Ingredients are cooked simply, seasoned writer). Veggiestan’s street food is also an hidden gelatine, dripping or animal rennet, eye-opener for those used to over-cooked and Muslims eating out in this country usually opt for vegetarian food as it is the easiest choice. A vegetarian travelling in Veggiestan may in fact struggle to fi nd food that is entirely devoid of meat (stock, fat etc). But a vegetarian looking to the nations comprising Veggiestan for inspiration will be richly rewarded.

Sally Butcher and her Persian husband Jamshid run a Persian corner shop, Persepolis, in Peckham. Veggiestan (Pavillion) is her second cookery book.

If you want a taster of Veggiestan, or indeed Persia in general, Persepolis holds regular ‘pop-up’ restaurant evenings at Anderson & Co in Peckham. Telephone 020 7469 7078 for details, or check on the Persepolis website: foratasteofpersia.co.uk. For recipes from Veggiestan at home, go to: veggiestan.com

(Opposite) Omlette from Veggiestan cookbook, 2012 (Left) Prune and turnip tagine, from Veggiestan

© Yuki Sugura © Yuki cookbook, 2012

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 15 IIRANRAN

Baqer Moin discusses how Norouz is celebrated, sometimes secretly, by many outside Iran NNorouzorouz aaroundround tthehe wworldorld © Zavosh

ome 300 million people, from western Azerbaijan, Norouz is more important than was renamed Islamic Republic Airline and China, Central and West Asia to the western New Year. there are many other examples. However, Sthe Balkans and other communities For Iranians, Norouz has always been the when the authorities discovered that people worldwide, celebrate Norouz 'new day' – the main Eid (festival), far more important than respond better to the government if it spring equinox – an event that has achieved religious Eids. When the monarchy ruled appeals to their sense of nationalism, in greater signifi cance in political and cultural Iran, Norouz was the only occasion when particular towards the end of the Iran-Iraq diplomacy since the 1980s. schools and universities were closed for two war, melli was rehabilitated in the media. Th e collapse of the Soviet Union led weeks and the country came to a standstill. Th e ambiguities remained, and attempts to a search for cultural and historical Th is trend has so far continued. Recent by political hardliners and religious identity by its Islamic republics, which were attempts to curtail these holidays and to give conservatives to denigrate Norouz as a emerging for the fi rst time as independent more prominence to the religious occasions ‘pagan practice’ never ceased. nation states. Peoples of these republics have not been a great success. However, hardliners' campaigns against had celebrated Norouz secretly, despite the Th e Islamic Republic has an uneasy national cultural symbols had the opposite offi cial ban. In the post-independent era, relationship with Iranian nationalism. eff ect. Helped by social networking sites, Norouz gradually became a national holiday, Th e word melli (national) was banned for the Iranian youth, eager for meaning and to the extent that most of these republics several years, and replaced by an Islamic joy in their lives, are presently waging an now celebrate both January 1 and March term. Th e National Consultative Assembly intensifi ed campaign to revive national 21 (spring equinox) as their new years. For was renamed the Islamic Consultative symbols. Th ey began to celebrate Yalda, the some, such as in Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Assembly. Th e National Iranian Airline eve of the Winter Solstice, and Mehrgan, the autumnal equinox. For some, such as in Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Azerbaijan, If celebrating Norouz divides the ruling establishment, taking advantage Norouz is more important than the western New Year of the popularity of national symbols

16 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 Since 2009, President Obama has used the event to demonstrate Th is new international awareness is coupled with UNESCO putting Norouz in a better understanding of the Iranian people and their culture the list of intangible cultural heritages of humanity, a move proposed by the Republic and sentiments for political and electoral Th e migration of millions of Persians, of Azerbaijan. It was later recognised as gains has also divided them. While Afghans, Kurds and other ethnic groups the International Day of Norouz by the UN the more conservative elements play in the past few decades to the West has General Assembly, calling on member states down nationalism, populist politicians brought the festivities associated with that celebrate the festival to study its history surrounding the president, such as Norouz to the heart of western societies. and traditions with a view to disseminating Esfandiar Rahim Mashaie, have sparked It is celebrated in educational institutions knowledge about it among the international controversy by talking about the Maktab-e demonstrating its importance to western community and organising annual Irani or the Iranian school of Islam, politicians. Many western leaders and commemorative events. thus distancing themselves from the lawmakers are increasingly acknowledging Coincidentally, most nations who conservatives and their attitude towards the Norouz, whether for social or electoral celebrate Norouz are members of the ECO Iranian national heritage. In 2011, as a vote- reasons. Since 2009, President Obama has (Economic Co-operation Organisation), winning exercise, the president and his allies used the event to demonstrate a better an intergovernmental body of the central planned a major celebration for Norouz at understanding of Iranian people and their and west Asian states. Th e ECO was set up Persepolis, where the former Shah once held culture. In his fi rst message, addressed to to promote cultural and economic co- a celebration commemorating 2,500 years Iranians, he said: ‘this holiday is both an operation, though it has had little success of the monarchy. Th e conservative media ancient ritual and a moment of renewal. in the fi eld of culture. A regional and waged a major anti-Norouz campaign to Within these celebrations lies the promise international interest in Norouz has given discredit the presidential advisers, such as of a new day, the promise of opportunity the ECO inspiration to focus on a shared, Mr Rahim Mashaie. Th ey were forced to for our children, security for our families, secular cultural heritage. Th e ECO member cancel this celebration publicly although it progress for our communities, and peace states have agreed to be the offi cial host of did occur in private. between nations.’ Norouz on rotation. Last year was Iran's In Afghanistan, the Taliban and some On March 19 2009, the US House of turn. Th e heads of states that visited Tehran Mujahedin parties played down Norouz. Representatives recognised the cultural last year witnessed a sombre occasion as Following the fall of the Taliban, the picture and historical signifi cance of Norouz in they were not allowed to celebrate the changed. Th e good fortune of Norouz and, a resolution stating: ‘Norouz originated occasion at Persepolis or Takht-e Jamshid, to a lesser extent, that of Mehrgan has been in ancient Persia, harkens the departure the throne of Jamshid, the mythical founder revived. Hundreds of thousands of people from the trials and tribulations of the of Norouz. are now travelling from all over the country previous year and brings hope for the Th is year’s festivals will be hosted in to celebrate the new year in Mazar-e-Sharif. New Year; embodies the tradition that Dushanbe, Tajikistan’s capital. A fusion Th e Kurds have always celebrated Norouz. each individual's thinking, speaking, and of Tajik arts: dance, music and mounting Since the fall of Saddam Hussein, Kurdish conduct should always be virtuous, and the spectacles, should off er a more joyous authorities in northern Iraq have held ideal of compassion for our fellow human and colourful festival befi tting the happy major festivals and offi cial processions. beings regardless of ethnicity or religion, occasion of Norouz. Across the border, the Kurds in Turkey and symbolises a time of renewal and have also traditionally celebrated the event. community.’ Canada has also recognised Baqer Moin is director of Jadidonline.com Turkish administrations have oft en opposed Norouz as a special day, as has Sweden. and former head of BBC Persian and Pashto the celebrations, considering them signs

of Kurdish nationalism. Th e PKK, the © Ehsan Khakbaz cessationist Kurdish group, used Norouz to further its cause. Faced with this ever-increasing Kurdish campaign, and the celebrations by the newly independent Turkic nations in the Caucasus and central Asia, the Turkish government changed its position. Not only did it proclaim Norouz as an ancient heritage of the Turkic people but many of its leaders also joined the festivities, including jumping over the symbolically purifying fi re. In 2009, the Turkish government began special television services during Norouz for all Turkic-speaking countries as a sign of solidarity and to share the celebrations.

(Opp0site) A Norouz celebration in Montreal, Canada, 2010 (Right) A modern take on a Norouz table

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 17 PPOETRYOETRY Mimi Khalvati and Qeysar Aminpour Selected by Narguess Farzad

Almost all Iranians at some point in their lives turn to Hafez Th e original begins with the lines: of Shiraz (1325-1389), when they look for an oracle. By interpreting a randomly selected poem from his Divan we seek One rosy cheek from the rose garden of the world is enough for us guidance to make diffi cult decisions or narrow down choices. In this meadow, the shade of that cypress gliding by is enough for Th e obsession with this lyrical bibliomancy, known as Fal-e us. Hafez, reaches fever pitch during the Norouz celebrations, Th e Palace of Paradise is the promised reward for good deeds soon aft er the earth passes through the vernal equinox. Mimi For us reprobates and rogues the tavern of the Magi is enough for Khalvati, an Iranian-born British poet, salutes a famous ghazal us. of Hafez in her contemporary take on the 800–year–old genre of composition. GGhazalhazal AAfterfter HafezHafez

By Mimi Khalvati from The Meanest Flower, 2007

However large earth’s garden, mine’s enough One rose and shade of a vine’s enough.

I don’t want more wealth, I don’t need more dross Th e grape has its bloom and it shines enough.

Why ask for the moon? Th e moon’s in your cup, A beggar, a tramp, for whom wine’s enough.

Look at the stream as it winds out of sight One glance, one glimpse of a chine’s enough.

Like the sun in bazaars, streaming in shaft s, Any slant on the grand design’s enough.

When you’re here, my love, what more could I want? Just mentioning love in a line’s enough.

Heaven can wait. To have found, heaven knows, A bed and a roof so divine’s enough.

I’ve no grounds for complaint. As Hafez says, Isn’t a ghazal that he signs enough?

(Right and opp0site) Hafez poem, calligraphy by Master Mohammad Salahshour

18 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 Th e impact of the Iranian revolution of 1979 on Persian poetry is only beginning to be assessed. Meanwhile, the state’s appetite for neo–classical heroic verse, and wordy religious eulogies, fi ghts for public support and publishing space alongside avant–garde expressions of the lives of the overlooked and the ordinary. Below is an extract from I Behave as I Always Do by Qeysar Aminpour (1959-2007), known mostly for his poetry of the sacred defence:

I bbehaveehave aass I aalwayslways ddoo

By Qeysar Aminpour, from Mirrors of Abruptness second edition 1998 (Working translation by Narguess Farzad)

I behave as I always do Rummaged through all of my letters- But why chasing the fairy tale, seeking that unknown, Whenever friends or others see me, probing each and every single line- Quietly they say: but saw nothing. ‘Th ese days Except in one, a folded old note, You are not yourself!’ holding the whiff of heavenly jasmines. But I am like I’ve always been Last night, aft er thirty years, I saw same simple quirks the colour of my eyes is honeyish-brown same signature, same name and unlike previous years quiet and calm, as I have always been. I love purples and mauves Much more than colour blue. It’s just that these days Last night for the fi rst time I felt I feel a little vague my forename was not so awesome aft er all. At times befuddled, a little perplexed. Compared to previous days Sometimes the whole day long, my eyes I love the ‘now’ that tiny bit more. trade glances of bonhomie with strangers in the city, From time to time, Sometimes a doleful song oblivious to news, to passing of the days, the months, the years, tempts my naive and bashful heart. I am a little less, And sometimes, viscerally more. But And if I dared to say it, Being the usual way, my tame and simple self I worship in a diff erent way. I have no other cares, I behave as I always do. Last night, for example, More otherly than all other cruel nights, I was totally at ease. I sat down and ironed my socks beautifully. I walked seven miles or so, alone in my room, I talked to my shoes. And then

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 19 RREVIEWS:EVIEWS: EXHIBITIONEXHIBITION

Ionis Thompson takes a look at the fi rst ever exhibition dedicated solely to the pilgrimage to Mecca TThehe HHajjajj iinn LLondonondon © Newsha Tavakolian © Newsha

n exhibition has opened at the I talked to Qaisra Khan, Project Curator supportive of the idea and lent willingly. A British Museum that will shed a at the Museum, who, under lead curator Dr great deal of material has come from British Anew light on the sacred journey Venetia Porter, was responsible for setting museums and libraries. Th e institution undertaken by Muslims, the Hajj. Entitled: up this exhibition, about the ideas behind which lent most was probably the British Hajj: Journey to the Heart of Islam, this it and the way this huge project has been Library, but many other London institutions is the brain-child of Dr Neil MacGregor, tackled. She pointed out that the exhibition lent things, notably the Arcadian Library the Museum’s Director, and follows two is unique, being the fi rst in the world and the Khalili Collection which is housed other recent exhibitions dedicated to dedicated solely to Hajj. It has taken British in both London and Geneva. Some material spiritual journeys, Th e Book of the Dead Museum staff two years to borrow about came, of course, from Saudi Arabia itself. and Treasures of Heaven. Its objective is to 180 objects from 40 collections, in some 13 Th e exhibition, Qaisra Khan told me, show the past and present signifi cance of countries around the world from Africa to has three strands: (a) the journey and Hajj as one of the fi ve pillars of Islam and to Malaysia. Th ere are archaeological objects, preparation, (b) the sanctuary and the share the personal experiences of those who artistic pieces, photographs, manuscripts rituals of Hajj and (c) what it means to be a have made the journey with both Muslims and fi lms. Most lenders were very Hajji or Hajjia. Th e objects on display will and non-Muslims. As a journey Hajj has remained essentially the same since the 7th It has taken British Museum staff two years to century. Every Muslim must try to make at least one visit to Mecca in his or her lifetime, borrow about 180 objects from 40 collections, in some if he is able to do so. 13 countries around the world from Africa to Malaysia

20 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 illustrate these diff erent strands – so there will be astrolabes and qibla compasses (to Five manuscripts borrowed from a library in Timbuktu which show the direction of Mecca for those about describe travellers’ stories are highlights of the exhibition to pray) and photographs illustrating the pilgrim caravans from the 19th century to travellers’ stories. From Damascus another also examples of the textile known as the the present. huge pilgrim caravan travelled along an kiswah, which covered the Ka‘bah. Th is is Th e journey, (a), illustrates pilgrim routes ancient route through the Hejaz which a black cloth beautifully embroidered with from four staging points: Kufa in modern in the 20th century was briefl y overlaid in calligraphic inscriptions from the Koran in Iraq, Cairo in Egypt, Damascus in Syria parts by the Hejaz Railway. Th e leader of gold thread in bands around the top and on and Jeddah in Saudi Arabia. From Kufa the caravan, the Emir al Haj, carried the the door. Th e kiswah was formerly woven pilgrims travelled along the pilgrim route Ottoman imperial purse with money to and embroidered in Cairo but is now made still known as the Darb Zubaida, (aft er hand out to potentially hostile Bedouin in a factory in Mecca. Queen Zubaida, wife of the Caliph Harun encountered along the way. Th e exhibition Th e third strand of the exhibition, (c), ar-Rashid, who in the 8th century was has illustrations of how these Ottoman explores what it means to be a Hajji today responsible for improvements to the road caravans would have looked. Jeddah was the with an audio recording in which people such as wells and resting places along the gathering place for pilgrims from South- who have made the pilgrimage in recent way.) Th ese stopping places have yielded East Asia, and South Asia as far east as times recount their experiences and explain archaeological treasures never before seen China, most of whom reached Jeddah by the signifi cance the journey has had in their outside Saudi Arabia. In Cairo pilgrims boat. Th ere are 17th century depictions of lives. Souvenirs brought back by present- from Africa congregated and travelled in the boats leaving for and arriving at Jeddah, day Hajjis and Hajj certifi cates will be on huge pilgrim caravans, carrying each year and it is shown how the travel agent Th omas display. the mahmal, a richly decorated camel litter Cook started out by making good the route Th e exhibition also examines the which accompanied the yearly pilgrim for pilgrims from India to Jeddah. importance to pilgrims of the ihram, or caravan to Mecca from Cairo and later Th e strand on Mecca, (b), includes dress worn for the pilgrimage (consisting of from Damascus as well. Th e mahmal was depictions of the city over time, in two sheets of white un-hemmed cloth for sent by rulers from Mamluk times until photographs, manuscripts and tiles. Th e men and any modest clothing for women). the 20th century to represent them at the organisers were challenged as to how to Th e diffi culty of the journey years ago, and Hajj. Th e Egyptian mahmal was oft en the depict the rituals undergone by pilgrims at still today, is brought out. Poor Muslims most lavish, decorated with silk, gold and Mecca, such as walking seven times round would save up for their whole lives to fulfi l silver but empty except for a Koran. With the Ka‘bah, running back and forth between their dream of going on Hajj but the money it went the kiswah (see below) which was the hills of al Safa and al Marwah, drinking ran out for many, and they were forced to to drape the Ka‘bah (the cube-shaped from the well of Zamzam, undergoing a sleep on the streets of Mecca and to sell building at the centre of the Grand Mosque vigil at Mount Arafat and throwing stones goods for their return journey. Many of in Mecca, towards which Muslims direct at the devil (the metaphorical pillars called them never did return home. their prayers). Th e exhibition has on the Jamarat al-Mina). Th ey use both fi lm Th e theme of this exhibition has show a beautiful example of a mahmal in and objects representing the diff erent stimulated some remarkable modern works crimson. Other highlights of this part of the rituals, such as stones from the plain of of art, such as Ahmed Mater’s photogravure exhibition are fi ve manuscripts borrowed Muzdalifah used to stone the Devil and holy etching entitled Magnetism, illustrated here, from a library in Timbuktu which describe water from the well of Zamzam. Th ere are which belongs to the British Museum. Iron fi lings represent pilgrims at Mecca. Qaisra Khan says there is a lack of knowledge of the history of the Hajj, even among Muslims, and certainly among non-Muslims, who are not allowed to enter the sanctuary. Th is unique exhibition should shed some light on this important facet of Islam and phenomenon of world pilgrimage.

Ionis Th ompson is a member of the MEL Editorial Board

(Opposite) A pilgrim during the Hajj, 2010. Taken from The Fifth Pillar (Gilgamesh Publishing) a new book celebrating the photography of Newsha Tavakolian whose work is also exhibited at the British Museum exhibition (Left) Ahmed Mater, Magnetism (2011) British

© Ahmed Mater and the Trustees of the British Museum Trustees Ahmed Mater and the © Museum

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 21 RREVIEWS:EVIEWS: FILMFILM Reviewed by Mohammad Mirbashiri Iran (2011) 84 mins Director: Morteza Farshbaf (ﺳﻮگ) MMourningourning

n Mourning, Morteza Farshbaf adopts (Sharareh Pasha) and Kamran (Kiomars he cannot understand sign language when a slow-paced and enigmatic style of Giti) are Arshia’s aunt and uncle and they the couple argue. In a memorable sequence Istorytelling with the use of visually are en route to Tehran, driving through the Arshia sat in the back seat, turns up the simplistic techniques, extended scenes, a visually pleasing scenery of the countryside. volume of the stereo to enjoy an upbeat 4x4 and just a handful of actors. Sharareh and Kamran are bewildered by Azeri song whilst the couple are oblivious to Farshbaf’s debut feature fi lm begins in Arshia’s parents’ brash decision to leave the rhythms that he enjoys so much. total darkness. We hear a couple arguing their son behind. Th e plot unravels slowly Th e viewer is led to connect with each violently about whether they will go back and the facts are revealed subtly, leaving of the characters: on the one hand with to their home in Tehran. Doors slam, then Sharareh and Kamran with a dilemma they Arshia’s childhood innocence and on the silence. As dawn breaks we catch a glimpse do not know how to confront. other, at Sharareh and Kamran’s sense of of a boy lying awake in bed. Did he hear the Th e fi lm is refreshing; this is not just frustration with their lot in life and the midnight mêlée? In the scene that follows, another fi lm about the much maligned obstacles that they encounter. a car is driven through scenic fi elds, silently Middle East and the ills of the Iranian Despite the slow plot, the meandering through a dusty road in lush nation. Instead the situation and the cinematography is poetic and the casting emerald meadows. Subtitles provide a characters are universal and could belong choices are impressively spot on. Th e actors conversation between a man and a woman to any time and any country. A fi rst-rate who play Sharareh and Kamran are a couple but we can’t hear or see them. Instead all we soundtrack accompanies this alluring and in real life who have previously featured in a can hear is the faint sound of the grass as it at times comic road movie. It comes as little similar styled short fi lm by Farshbaf. dances in the wind. We can guess that the surprise to learn that Farshbaf is a protégé Farshbaf is a new kid on the block of conversation is going on inside the roving of the acclaimed director and screenwriter the third generation Iranian New Wave car. Th e camera operates exclusively in wide Abbas Kiarostami. fi lmmakers. While it is too soon to say shots for the fi rst 10 minutes of the fi lm. As Th ere is a sense of mystery throughout whether he will succeed in joining the the shot eventually switches to the interior Mourning, which both intrigues and gnaws cinema hall of fame, judging by his sad yet of the car, we meet a deaf couple who are away at the viewer simultaneously. For the inspiring fi rst feature, he is almost certainly bickering using sign language whilst the most part the fi lm features just the three a force to be reckoned with. young boy, Arshia (Amir Hossein Maleki) actors travelling in a car, communicating sits watching them in the back. via sign language, each fi lled with angst and Mohammad Mirbashiri is an independent Th e couple who had been arguing in the sadness. commentator on Middle Eastern culture and middle of the night were Arshia’s parents. Ironically, even though it is Sharareh society and alumnus of SOAS Th ey had suddenly vanished leaving and Kamran who both have a hearing him behind. Th e deaf couple, Sharareh impairment, it is Arshia who is impaired as © Dogwoof

Kiomars Gity, Sharareh Pasha and Amirhossein Maleki in Mourning, 2011

22 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 RREVIEWS:EVIEWS: BOOKSBOOKS ININ BRIEFBRIEF TThehe AArabrab SSpringpring TThehe EEndnd ooff PPostcolonialismostcolonialism Hamid Dabashi

Hamid Dabashi, Professor Iranian Studies and Comparative Literature at Columbia University, argues that the revolutionary uprisings that have engulfed multiple countries across the Middle East of late, were driven by a 'delayed defi ance' - a point of rebellion against domestic tyranny and globalised disempowerment alike that signifi es the end of postcolonialism. Ultimately, Dabashi argues, the 'permanent revolutionary mood' has the potential to liberate not only those societies already ignited, but also many others through a universal geopolitics of hope.

Zed Books, May 2012. £12.99

EEurope'surope's AAngryngry MMuslimsuslims Robert S Leiken

Covering eight countries and 30 cities, but focusing on Britain and France, Europe's Angry Muslims provides an account of how Islam came to 20th century Europe. Th is book aims at combining fi rst - hand reporting, based on interviews of former radicals, scrutiny of court records, historical background, and analysis to discuss the complex phenomenon of European Islam. Robert Leiken is Director of the Immigration and National Security Program and the Mexico Program at the Center for the National Interest in the USA.

Oxford University Press, March 2012. £16.99 TThehe PPalestinealestine NNakbaakba Nur Masalha

2012 marks the 63rd anniversary of the Nakba, the most traumatic catastrophe that befell Palestinians. Th is book explores new ways of remembering and commemorating the Nakba. In the context of Palestinian oral history, it explores 'social history from below', the formation of collective identity. Masalha argues that to write more truthfully about the Nakba is not just the practice of professional historiography but it is also an ethical imperative.

Zed Books, February 2012. £19.99

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 23 OOBITUARYBITUARY AAlexanderlexander ((Sandy)Sandy) MMorton,orton, 11942942 --20112011 © George Lane

fi rst encountered Sandy Morton at SOAS over 20 years ago when I rather Ibelatedly embarked on my academic career. Initially he presented a rather aloof and intimidating fi gure, serious and demanding, an old-style scholar and traditionalist teacher. Since then I slowly discovered other facets of this intensely private, surprisingly shy, but kind and Alexander (Sandy) Morton with George Lane at a night tolerant man who later, while remaining a market in China teacher, became a colleague and I hope, in the last years, a friend. very much alive and enjoying life whether PhD he had the distinction of being one In early 2011 when his advancing cancer it was the intellectual nourishment of the of the few distinguished scholars who had rendered him a virtual prisoner in conference, the rich and varied food of achieved enviable academic success without his own home, I began visiting him on a China’s streets or simply the tapestry of life having to actually submit a dissertation. He regular basis and, not always feeling up to in evidence in the crowds swarming around wore the title of ‘Mr’ with pride. Sandy’s scrutinising heavy mediaeval Persian texts West Lake and he had a full life and career encyclopaedic knowledge of Iranian as had been our habit over the years, took to look back on. history and Islamic art, as well as European to reminiscing about the years he had spent Born on April 11, 1942 in India (now literature was legendary. At SOAS where he in Iran and Afghanistan during the 1970s Pakistan) in the last years of the Raj, Sandy remained until his early retirement in 1999, and of his trip to the wilds of Yemen. He still retained memories from his time in he started initially as a lecturer in Persian had been a young scholar at the prestigious Multan where his father, Kenneth Morton and was eventually appointed Senior British Institute of Persian Studies in the CIE OBE, a member of the Indian Civil Lecturer of the Persian section of the NME Iranian capital eventually being appointed Service, was stationed. Sandy was the third Department. Assistant Director of BIPS, but he had still of fi ve children (Felicity, Kenneth, who died For one who carries such a formidable found the time to hit the hippie trail and some time ago, Sandy, William and James). reputation and whose renown is he regaled me with tales of haggling in the His mother, Mary Morton, was the daughter international and widely respected his bazaars and hashish in the chaikhanas of of Harold Hargreaves, the Deputy Director publishing output is relatively modest. Herat. He relished the memories of his of the Indian Archaeological Survey under On his death only three books bore his trips to Afghanistan and the gloriously Sir John Marshall, who is known for his name so it is most welcome that at least anarchic border posts, the run-down but work at the sites of Mohendejaro and Taxila. two more titles will be appearing soon in welcoming hippie hotels, the decrepit Th e family left the sub-continent in 1947 China under his name, confi rmation of intercity buses in a permanent state of lethal shortly before independence and lived in which he gratefully received before the end. disrepair and spoke with aff ection of his Edinburgh for a short while before moving He authored a number of articles whose adventures in a land that is no more. to Cambridge in 1948. Sandy specialised in varied subject matter refl ected his own He had already revealed this other side Classics at Rugby aft er fi nishing prep school diverse interests, which included literature, to his personality on our trip to Zheijiang in Cambridge following which he entered architecture, philosophy and of course fi rst Province in China for a conference on the his father’s college, University College, and foremost, history. Yuan dynasty in Hangzhou in November Oxford, where he earned a First in Classical Towards the end he had been reluctant to 2010. He was more than happy to explore Moderations. However, he switched courses let people know just how ill he had become without question the culinary excesses and found his true vocation in Persian and and I felt that I should ensure that people laid before him and to launch into a foot Arabic. Graduating in 1964 and supported knew. What immediately struck me was tour of the backstreets and local markets by a scholarship, he commenced work at the just how many people harboured great of the Hangzhou away from the tourist British Institute of Persian Studies in Tehran warmth and aff ection for Sandy and he was spots, fed solely by the stimulant of restless where he remained until 1967, when he very moved and genuinely surprised at the curiosity. I completely forgot that I was left to begin a PhD under the supervision number of well-wishers that contacted and accompanied by a 69 year old man wracked of the formidable Professor Ann Lambton. visited him in his fi nal weeks. by cancer as I led him from one historical Th e call of the East was strong and he site to another, up one mountain and down returned to Tehran as Assistant Director of George Lane is Senior Teaching Fellow in the another, fi nishing off another day over beers BIPS though he left some time before the History of the Middle East and Central Asia while watching the haggling at Hangzhou’s revolution of 1979. at SOAS night-time street market. He was a man Although Sandy never completed his

24 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 LISTINGS EEventsvents iinn LLondonondon

HE EVENTS and organisations listed Persian New Year Tbelow are not necessarily endorsed or supported by The Norouz Celebrations at SOAS Middle East in London. The accompanying texts and images are based primarily on information Save the date provided by the organisers and do not necessarily reflect the views of the compilers or publishers. έΎϬΑ ̮Ϩϳ΍ Ϊγέ ̶ϣ ̮ϣήϧ ϡήϧ While every possible effort is έΎ̳ίϭέ ϝΎΣ ϪΑ εϮΧ made to ascertain the accuracy of these listings, readers are advised Ύϫ ΖηΩ ϭ Ύϫ ϪϤθ̩ ϝΎΣ ϪΑ εϮΧ to seek confirmation of all events Ύϫ ϩΰΒγ ϭ Ύϫ Ϫϧ΍Ω ϝΎΣ ϪΑ εϮΧ using the contact details provided for each event. ίΎΑ ϪϤϴϧ ̵Ύϫ Ϫ̪ϨϏ ϝΎΣ ϪΑ εϮΧ Submitting entries and updates: please send all updates and submissions for entries related to future events via e-mail to Date: Saturday 24 March 2012 [email protected] or by fax to 020 7898 4329. Time: 7pm-10:30pm BM – British Museum, Great Russell Street, London WC1B 3DG Location: Brunei Lecture Theatre SOAS – School of Oriental and SOAS– Russell Square African Studies, Th ornhaugh Street, Russell Square, London WC1H London WC1H 0XG 0XG LSE – London School of Economics and Political Science, Houghton Street, London WC2 2AE

The Centre for Iranian Studies at FEBRUARY EVENTS SOAS invites you to a celebration of Wednesday 1 February Norouz with music, poetry and food. 7:00 pm | Wael Ghonim in conversation with Ben Programme information and ticket Hammersley: Revolution 2.0 (Discussion) Organised by: purchase will be available from the Frontline Club. Named one of website after mid-February. Time magazine's top 100 most infl uential people, Wael Ghonim, Tickets: £25 is credited with having sparked Students: £15 Egypt's revolution with a Facebook page he dedicated to a victim of the regime's violence. Tickets: £20/£15 conc. Venue TBC T 020 7479 8940 W www.frontlineclub.com Contact: [email protected] 7:30 pm | Th e House of Bernarda

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 25 Alba (Performance) Until 10 March. in power (Seminar) Gamon Play by Federico García Lorca McLellan, SOAS. Organised by: in a new version by Emily Mann SOAS Modern Turkish Studies and directed by Bijan Sheibani. Programme (London Middle East Following her husband’s funeral, Institute, SOAS) and sponsored by powerful matriarch Bernarda Alba Nurol Bank. Part of the Seminars decrees to her fi ve daughters that on Turkey series. Convened by the household will enter a period of Benjamin Fortna, SOAS. Admission eight years mourning. Various ticket free. Room 116, SOAS. T 020 7898 prices. Almeida Th eatre, Almeida 4431 E [email protected] W www.soas. Street, Islington, London N1 1TA. ac.uk/lmei/events/ T 020 7288 4900 E info@almeida. co.uk W www.almeida.co.uk 6:30 pm | Journey to Mecca: In the footsteps of Ibn Battuta (Film) Th ursday 2 February Organised by: BM. Also on Friday 30 March. Dir Bruce Neibaur 5:30 pm | Catalysts for social (2009), 45 min. Film based on the change and cross-cultural true story of Ibn Battuta, who set dialogue? Contemporary museum out from Morocco in 1325 on an projects in the Arab-Persian epic journey to the sacred city of Gulf Region (Lecture) Ulrike Al- Mecca. Followed by a discussion Khamis. Organised by: Aga Khan with the fi lmmakers. Tickets: £3/£2 University Institute for the Study BM Members/conc. Stevenson of Muslim Civilisations (AKU- Lecture Th eatre, BM. T 020 7323 ISMC). Admission free. AKU- 8181 E [email protected] ISMC, 210 Euston Road, London W www.britishmuseum.org NW1 2DA. T 020 7380 3865 E ismc. [email protected] W www.aku. Saturday 4 February edu 9:40 am | Th e Idea of Iran: the age 6:30 pm | Th e Pattern of the Past of the great Saljuqs (Symposium) in North Africa (Lecture) James Organised by: Centre for Iranian McDougall, University of Oxford. Studies, SOAS. Th e Centre for Organised by: Middle East Centre, Iranian Studies, SOAS and the LSE. Th e Maghreb, despite being Faculty of Oriental Studies, perhaps historically the fi rst region University of Oxford with the The Unmentioned (See Exhibitions, page 34) to be provided with a model of support of the Soudavar Memorial historical development (by Ibn Foundation. Under the Saljuqs (11th Khaldun), remains to a large and 12th centuries CE) a system of degree unidentifi able with its own government based on Turkish ‘men BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ University; Adem Yavuz Elveren, distinctive 'pattern of the past'. of the sword’ and Persian ‘men of the britishmuseum.org W www. Kahramanmaraş Sütçü İmam Admission free. CLM 7.02, Clement pen’ was consolidated presenting us britishmuseum.org University, Turkey. Chaired by House, LSE. T 020 7955 6365 E with a wealth of themes to explore Şevket Pamuk, LSE. Admission [email protected] W www2.lse. and unanswered questions to debate 5:15 pm | Politics of Mass free. COW1.11, Cañada Blanch ac.uk/middleEastCentre/home.aspx in the ninth programme in ‘Th e Consumption in Egypt and Saudi Room, Cowdray House, LSE. T Idea of Iran’ series. Tickets: £15/£10 Arabia during the Oil Boom 020 7955 6067 E euroinst.turkish. 7:00 pm | Screening - Shouting LMEI Affi liates & conc./students (Seminar) Relli Shecther, Ben- [email protected] W www2.lse. in the Dark (Film) Organised by: free - To book W www.soas.ac.uk/ Gurion University. Organised by: ac.uk/europeanInstitute/research/ Frontline Club. Followed by Q&A iranianstudies/events/ Brunei Department of History, SOAS. ContemporaryTurkishStudies/ with Director Ying Welsh via Skype Gallery Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. T Seminar on the History of the Near Home.aspx moderated by Executive Producer 020 7898 4490 E [email protected] W and Middle East. Admission free. Jon Blair. Al Jazeera's May Ying www.soas.ac.uk/iranianstudies/ Room G3, SOAS. E [email protected] 6:00 pm | Salinisation in Welsh tells the story of the ongoing W www.soas.ac.uk/history/events/ Mesopotamia from a social- revolution taking place in Bahrain. Monday 6 February nmehistseminar/ environmental perspective Tickets: £10/£8 conc. Frontline (Seminar) Mark Altaweel, University Club, 13 Norfolk Place, Paddington, 1:15 pm | Hajj: curator’s 6:00 pm | Gender and Society in College London. Organised by: W2 1QJ. T 020 7479 8940 W www. introduction (Gallery Talk) Turkey: Th e Impact of Neoliberal LCANE. Part of LCANE Spring frontlineclub.com Organised by: BM. Exhibition Policies, Political Islam and EU Seminar Series 2012 'New Research'. curators Venetia Porter and Accession (Seminar) Organised Convened by Mark Weeden. SOAS. Friday 3 February Qaisra Khan give an illustrated by: LSE Contemporary Turkish Admission free. Room G51, SOAS. introduction to the Hajj exhibition. Studies. Saniye Dedeoğlu, Muğla E [email protected] W www.soas. 12:00 pm | AKP: its tenth year Admission free. BP Lecture Th eatre, University, Turkey and Warwick ac.uk/nme/ane/lcane/

26 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 6:30 pm | Muslim Cosmopolitanism 'Adonis: Selected Poems', published (LMEI). Part of the LMEI's Tuesday (Lecture) Oliver Watson, University or Heresy? Lessons for the by Yale University Press. With a Evening Lecture Programme on of Oxford. Organised by: Islamic Aft ermath of the 2011 Arab spring lecture by Sean O'Brien on 'Making the Contemporary Middle East, Art Circle at SOAS. Part of (Lecture) Carool Kersten, King's the Crossing: the poet as translator'. Th e Middle East in Transition: a the Islamic Art Circle at SOAS College London. Organised by: Tickets: £9.50. King’s Place, 90 York new social economic and political Lecture Programme. Chaired by Middle East Centre, LSE. A talk Way, London N1 9AG. T 020 7832 landscape? Tea and biscuits Doris Behrens-Abouseif, SOAS. on how three emblematic Muslim 1350 E [email protected] W available from 5:30pm. Admission Admission free. Khalili Lecture intellectuals from Algeria, Egypt www.banipaltrust.org.uk/prize/ free. Khalili Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. Th eatre, SOAS. T 0771 408 7480 and Indonesia give new relevance T 020 7898 4490 E [email protected] E [email protected] W to religion in the post-secular and W www.soas.ac.uk/lmei/events/ www.soas.ac.uk post-Islamist Muslim world of the Tuesday 7 February 21st century. Chaired by Kirsten Wednesday 8 February Th ursday 9 February Schulze, LSE. Admission free. CLM 1:15 pm | Idris Khan’s 'Seven 7.02, Clement House, LSE. T 020 Times' (Gallery Talk) Louisa 6:00 pm | Know how to resolve 6:00 pm | Recent Developments 7955 6365 E [email protected] W Macmillan, BM. Organised by: BM. the Israeli-Palestinian confl ict? in Yemen (Lecture) Qais Ghanem, www2.lse.ac.uk/middleEastCentre/ Admission free. Information Desk, (Panel Debate) Damian Gorman; physician, poet, community leader home.aspx BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ Anton Obholzer. Organised by: Th e and radio show host. Organised britishmuseum.org W www. Olive Tree Programme. Olive Tree by: Th e British-Yemeni Society. 7:00 pm | Th e 2011 Saif Ghobash- britishmuseum.org Middle East Forum. Admission Refreshments from 5:30pm. Banipal Prize for Arabic Literary free. A130, College Building, 280 Tickets: £10/£5 if accompanied by a Translation (Lecture) Organised 5:45 pm | Th e 'Arab Awakening' St John Street, London EC1V 4PB. Member). Middle East Association, by: Banipal. Award Ceremony for in North Africa - one year aft er E [email protected] W www.city. Bury House, 33 Bury Street, London the 2011 Prize for Arabic Literary (Lecture) George Joff é, Cambridge ac.uk/olivetree SW1Y 6AX. T 020 7603 8895 / Translation which is awarded to University. Organised by: London 07787 158658 E 1.rebeccajohnson@ Khaled Mattawa for his translation of Middle East Institute, SOAS 7:00 pm | Lessons from Raqqa gmail.com W www.al-bab.com/bys

NEW FROM I.B.TAURIS

224 pages 216 x 134mm 336 pages 216 x 134mm 9781848855953 HB £25.00 9781848851931 HB £25.00 256 pages 216 x 134mm 9781780761275 HB £25.00 I.B.Tauris in association with The Institute of Ismaili Studies www.ibtauris.comFebruary-March 2012 The Middle East in London 27 Friday 10 February Turkish History, Boğaziçi BBC Persian's ground-breaking oft en fragile regional community, as University, İstanbul. Organised by: documentary charts the Ayatollah's well as the array of new issues that 1:15 pm | Pilgrim Pioneers: Britons LSE Contemporary Turkish Studies. reign and, through a number of threaten to undermine the veneer on Hajj before 1940 (Lecture) Chaired by Şevket Pamuk, LSE. interviews, builds a profi le of Iran's of stability in Basra and southern William Facey, writer and publisher. Admission free. COW1.11, Cañada most powerful man. Tickets: £10/£8 Iraq and their relations with Organised by: BM. Talk tracing Blanch Room, Cowdray House, LSE. conc. Frontline Club, 13 Norfolk neighbouring states. Admission Britain’s relations with Islam back T 020 7955 6067 E euroinst.turkish. Place, London W2 1QJ. T 020 7479 free. KSW 1.04, 20 Kingsway, LSE. T a thousand years. Admission [email protected] W www2.lse. 8940 W www.frontlineclub.com 0207 955 6639 E [email protected] free. Stevenson Lecture Th eatre, ac.uk/europeanInstitute/research/ BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ ContemporaryTurkishStudies/ 7:00 pm | Th e 1953 coup against 7:00 pm | Rebuilding Libya britishmuseum.org W www. Home.aspx Mossadeq (Lecture) Christopher (Lecture) Organised by: Frontline britishmuseum.org de Bellaigue, journalist and author. Club. On 15 February 2011 the 7:00 pm | Screenings from the Organised by: Th e Iran Society. people of Libya took to the streets Frontline with Al Jazeera: Tweets 6:30pm for 7:00pm. Tickets: £10. calling for the end of Gaddafi 's Monday 13 February from Tahrir (Film) Organised by: Royal Geographical Society, 1 brutal regime. Join this debate to Frontline Club. Followed by Q&A Kensington Gore, London SW7 discuss the task of rebuilding Libya 11:00 am | Half-term activities: with director Damian Clarke and 2AR. T 020 7235 5122 E info@ a year aft er the uprising began. Arabian encounters (Family Event: Adib Nessem. A year ago Cairo's iransociety.org W www.iransociety. What are the prospects of a peaceful Monday 13 – Friday 17 February) "Twitterati" tweeted their revolution org future? Tickets: £12.50/£10 conc. Organised by: BM. Encounter the for 18 days in and around Tahrir Frontline Club, 13 Norfolk Place, cultures of Arabia in a week of special Square. Tickets: £10/£8 conc. London W2 1QJ. T 020 7479 8940 activities. Suitable for all ages, until Frontline Club, 13 Norfolk Place, Wednesday 15 February W www.frontlineclub.com 4:00pm, just drop in. Admission London W2 1QJ. T 020 7479 8940 free. Great Court, BM. T 020 7323 W www.frontlineclub.com 4:30 pm | Basra, Southern 8181 E [email protected] Iraq and the Gulf: challenges Friday 17 February W www.britishmuseum.org and connections (Seminar) Tuesday 14 February Kristian Ulrichsen, LSE Kuwait 6:30 pm | Lawrence of Arabia 6:00 pm | Th e Rise and Decline Programme. Organised by: LSE (Film) Organised by: BM. Dir David of Population Politics in Turkey 7:00 pm | Th ird Party Screening: Kuwait Programme. Presentation Lean (1962), 216 min. Peter O’Toole (Lecture) M Asım Karaömerlioğlu, Th e Ayatollah's Seal (Film) examining the historical stars as T E Lawrence in the classic Th e Atatürk Institute for Modern Organised by: BBC Persian. connections linking together an Oscar-winning epic. Tickets: £3/£2

Olive Tree Middle East Forum Syria: Prospects, Risks and implications of International Intervention

Date: Wednesday 22 February 2012 Time: 6 – 7:30pm Location: A130, College Building, 280 St John Street, London EC1V 4PB

To discuss this topic: Lord Mark Malloch-Brown: Now at FTI Consulting and formerly Minister in Prime Minister Gordon Brown’s cabinet. Lord Malloch-Brown served as Deputy Secretary General and Chief of Staff of the United Nations under Kofi Annan having previously been Administrator of the UN Development Programme, and a Vice-President at the World Bank. He is also the author of Th e Unfi nished Global Revolution: Th e Pursuit of a New International Politics. Dr Maha Azzam: Associate Fellow of the Middle East and North Africa Programme at Chatham House, working on Political Islam in general and the Egyptian Muslim Brotherhood in particular. Previously she headed a programme on ‘Security and Development in Muslim States’, at the Royal United Services Institute for Defence Studies (RUSI).

ALL welcome. To register, no charge, please contact: [email protected] www.city.ac.uk/olivetree

28 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 BM Members/conc. Stevenson 6:00 pm | Contact, Confl ict and © October Gallery, London Lecture Th eatre, BM. T 020 7323 Identity in Bronze Age Northern 8181 E [email protected] Anatolia (Seminar) Claudia Glatz, W www.britishmuseum.org Glasgow University. Organised by: LCANE. Part of LCANE Spring Seminar Series 2012 'New Research'. Saturday 18 February Convened by Mark Weeden. SOAS. Admission free. Room G51, SOAS. 1:15 pm | Hajj: curator’s E [email protected] W www.soas. introduction (Gallery Talk) ac.uk/nme/ane/lcane/ Organised by: BM. See listing for Monday 6 February for details. Tuesday 21 February

6:45 pm | Intoxication of Hafez, 5:45 pm | Shift s in US/EU policy Persian Poetry & Music (Concert) towards the ME in light of the Organised by: Light of Music 'Arab Spring' (Lecture) Corinna in cooperation with the Centre Mullin, SOAS. Organised by: for Iranian Studies, SOAS. An London Middle East Institute, SOAS opportunity to enjoy the poetry (LMEI). Part of the LMEI's Tuesday of Hafez accompanied by a fusion Evening Lecture Programme on of Eastern and Western musical the Contemporary Middle East, instruments. Th e fi rst part of the Th e Middle East in Transition: a concert will focus on Hafez and the new social economic and political second part will consist of innovative landscape? Tea and biscuits music performed by talented available from 5:30pm. Admission musicians from Iran. Tickets: free. Khalili Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. £20/£15 (students only) - To book T 020 7898 4490 E [email protected] W www.soas.ac.uk/iranianstudies/ W www.soas.ac.uk/lmei/events/ events/ Brunei Gallery Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. T 020 7898 4330 E Wednesday 22 February [email protected] W www.soas.ac.uk/ iranianstudies/ 6:00 pm | Syria: Prospects, Risks and Implications of International Intervention (Lecture) Lord Mark Monday 20 February Malloch-Brown, FTI Consulting; Maha Azzam, Chatham House. 5:15 pm | Tolerance through Organised by: Olive Tree Misunderstanding : Th e Programme. Olive Tree Middle Experience of the Catholic East Forum. Admission free. A130, Missionaries in Smyrna in the College Building, 280 St John Street, 17th and 18th Centuries (Seminar) London EC1V 4PB. E olivetree@ Viviana Tagliaferri, SOAS. city.ac.uk W www.city.ac.uk/ Organised by: Department of olivetree History, SOAS. Seminar on the The Other Side of Paradise (See Exhibitions, page 34) History of the Near and Middle East. 7:00 pm | FCBBCA: Iran - Admission free. Room G3, SOAS. E diplomatic tensions and power Islam (Discussion) Organised by: archive fi lm aft ernoon Organised [email protected] W www.soas.ac.uk/ (Panel Discussion) Organised by: BM. Karen Armstrong, author, by: BM. An aft ernoon of talks history/events/nmehistseminar/ Frontline Club. A panel on the theologian, and British Museum and early documentaries and growing tensions between Iran Trustee, and Tariq Ramadan, fi lms featuring Hajj and Mecca. 6:00 pm | Turkey and the European and the West, the internal power University of Oxford, discuss Tickets: £10/£6 BM Members/ Court of Human Rights (Seminar) struggle within Iranian power what spiritual, moral, political, conc. Stevenson Lecture Th eatre, Başak Çalı, University College elites and what the future could and religious lessons Hajj can BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ London. Organised by: LSE hold for the pro-democracy Green teach Muslims and non-Muslims britishmuseum.org W www. Contemporary Turkish Studies. Movement. Tickets: £20/£15 conc. about Islam. Tickets: £5/£3 BM britishmuseum.org Chaired by Şevket Pamuk, LSE. Royal Institution of Great Britain, Members/conc. BP Lecture Th eatre, Admission free. COW1.11, Cañada 21 Albemarle Street, London W1S BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ Blanch Room, Cowdray House, LSE. 4BS. T 020 7479 8940 W www. britishmuseum.org W www. Monday 27 February T 020 7955 6067 E euroinst.turkish. frontlineclub.com britishmuseum.org [email protected] W www2.lse. 5:15 pm | Public Display and ac.uk/europeanInstitute/research/ Friday 24 February Saturday 25 February Individual Concern: Representing ContemporaryTurkishStudies/ Archaeology in the Turkish Home.aspx 6:00 pm | Hajj and the future of 1:30 pm | Journeys to Mecca: Republic (Seminar) Organised

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 29 by: Department of History, SOAS. segmented 2012 Baghdad (Lecture) LSE; İnsan Tunalı, Department europeanInstitute/research/ Seminar on the History of the Near Caecilia Pieri, Head of the Urban of Economics, Koç University, ContemporaryTurkishStudies/ and Middle East. Admission free. Observatory, French Institute of İstanbul. Organised by: LSE Home.aspx Room G3, SOAS. E [email protected] the Near-East, Beirut. By analysing Contemporary Turkish Studies and W www.soas.ac.uk/history/events/ the concrete T-Walls in today's the Forum for European Philosophy. nmehistseminar/ Baghdad, the lecture will address Chaired by Simon Glendinning, EVENTS OUTSIDE issues including the reshaping of European Institute, LSE. Admission LONDON 6:00 pm | Turkey's Agricultural living spaces and the appropriation free. Wolfson Th eatre,New Transformation: Is a Reversal of public spaces by various groups. Academic Building, LSE. T 020 Friday 3 February in the Making? (Seminar) İnsan Organised by: London Middle East 7955 6067 E euroinst.turkish. Tunalı, Department of Economics, Institute, SOAS (LMEI). Part of the [email protected] W www2.lse. 5:00 pm | Th e Libyan Refugee Koç University, Istanbul. Organised LMEI's Tuesday Evening Lecture ac.uk/europeanInstitute/research/ Crisis (Seminar) Elena Fiddian- by: LSE Contemporary Turkish Programme on the Contemporary ContemporaryTurkishStudies/ Qasmiyeh. Organised by: Middle Studies. Chaired by Şevket Pamuk. Middle East, Th e Middle East in Home.aspx East Centre, Oxford. Admission Admission free. COW1.11, Cañada Transition: a new social economic free. Middle East Centre, 62 Blanch Room, Cowdray House, LSE. and political landscape? Tea and Woodstock Road, Oxford OX2 6JF. T 020 7955 6067 E euroinst.turkish. biscuits available from 5:30pm. Wednesday 29 February T 01865 284780 W www.sant.ox.ac. [email protected] W www2.lse. Admission free. Khalili Lecture uk ac.uk/europeanInstitute/research/ Th eatre, SOAS. T 020 7898 4490 E 1:00 pm | Title TBC (Lecture) ContemporaryTurkishStudies/ [email protected] W www.soas.ac.uk/ Egemen Bağış, Turkish Minister for Home.aspx lmei/events/ EU Aff airs and Chief Negotiator. Mon 6 February Organised by: LSE Contemporary 6:30 pm | European Questions Turkish Studies. Chaired by 10:00 am | Opening the Boundaries Tuesday 28 February - Turkish Angles: Europe's Şevket Pamuk, LSE. Admission of Citizenship (Two-Day Unemployment (Conference) free. Room TBC, LSE. T 020 7955 Conference: Monday 6 – Tuesday 7 5:45 pm | Between art and Sean Sayers, University of Kent; 6067 E euroinst.turkish.studies@ February) Organised by: Oecumene alienation, the painted T-Walls in Marco Simoni, European Institute, lse.ac.uk W www2.lse.ac.uk/ Project. Th e Conference will explore

The Unmentioned (See Exhibitions, page 34)

30 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 new approaches and methods to conceptualising and politicising citizenship. Includes a keynote lecture by Judith Butler, University of California, on 'Self-Determination, Palestinian Statehood, and the Anarchist Impasse'. Tickets: £50/£30 student conc. Th e Open University, Walton Hall, Milton Keynes, UK. MIDDLE EAST BRIEFINGS E [email protected] W www.oecumene.eu/events/1st- symposium The London Middle East Institute offers tailored briefings on the politics, economics, cultures and languages of the Middle East. Tuesday 7 February Previous clients include UK and foreign governmental bodies 10:00 am | Opening the and private entities. Boundaries of Citizenship (Two- Contact us for details. Day Conference: Monday 6 – Tuesday 7 February) See Events Outside London listing for Monday Tel: 020 7898 4330 E-mail: [email protected] 6 February for details.

2:00 pm | Market Forces and Evaluation (Seminar) Carlo Friday 17 February See Events Outside London listing 4431 E [email protected] W www.soas. Berardi. Organised by: Th e for 7 February for details. ac.uk/lmei/events/ Khalili Research Centre, Oxford 5:00 pm | Changing Politics (KRC). KRC Research Seminar and MENA Energy Challenges 1:15 pm | Th e archaeology and on Contemporary Middle Eastern (Seminar) Hakim Darbouche. MARCH EVENTS material culture of Hajj in sub- Art. Admission free. Lecture Room, Organised by: Middle East Centre, Saharan Africa (Lecture) Tim Khalili Research Centre, University Oxford. See Events Outside London Th ursday 1 March Insoll, University of Manchester. of Oxford, 3 St John Street, Oxford listing for Friday 3 February for Organised by: BM. Talk exploring OX1 2LG. T 01865 278 222 E details. TBC | Centre for Palestine the history, processes, archaeology farzaneh.pirouz-moussavi@sant. Studies at the London Middle and material culture of Hajj in ox.ac.uk W www.krc.ox.ac.uk Tuesday 21 February East Institute, SOAS Launch sub-Saharan Africa since the 8th- Event(Organised by: Centre for 9th centuries AD. Admission Friday 10 February 2:00 pm | Th e Importance of Palestine Studies, LMEI, SOAS) free. Stevenson Lecture Th eatre, Middle Eastern Art and the Global Programme and tickets available BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ 5:00 pm | Th e Guardian and the Market (Seminar) Desiré Feuerle. online W www.soas.ac.uk/lmei/ britishmuseum.org W www. Arab Spring (Seminar) Ian Black. Organised by: Th e Khalili Research events/ Tickets TBC Brunei Gallery britishmuseum.org Organised by: Middle East Centre, Centre, Oxford (KRC). See Events Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. T 020 7898 Oxford. See Events Outside London Outside London listing for 7 4330 E [email protected] W www. Saturday 3 March listing for Friday 3 February for February for details. soas.ac.uk//lmei/ details. 2:00 pm | Lord Jim (Film) Jim Friday 24 February 1:15 pm | Hajj: curator’s is a promising young English Tuesday 14 February introduction (Gallery Talk) merchant seaman who joins the S S 5:00 pm | Palestinian Cultural Organised by: BM. See listing for Patna, crammed with hundreds of 2:00 pm | TBC (Seminar) Venetia History: Th e Transformation Monday 6 February for details. Muslims on pilgrimage to Mecca. Porter. Organised by: Th e Khalili of the Palestinians and the Dir Richard Brooks (1965), 154 Research Centre, Oxford (KRC). Institution Building Process Friday 2 March min. Tickets: £3/£2 BM Members/ See Events Outside London listing (1948-1983) (Seminar) Philipp conc. Stevenson Lecture Th eatre, for 7 February for details. Amour. Organised by: Middle East 12:00 pm | Exiled Activists or BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ Centre, Oxford. See Events Outside Cosmopolitan Intellectuals? Th e britishmuseum.org W www. Wednesday 15 February London listing for Friday 3 February Young Turk Opposition in Paris britishmuseum.org for details. (Seminar) Stefano Taglia, SOAS. 2:00 pm | Sudanese Programme Organised by: SOAS Modern Monday 5 March Workshop Presentations by Tuesday 28 February Turkish Studies Programme researchers at Oxford University. (London Middle East Institute, 5:15 pm | Rulers and Merchants Admission free. Nissan Lecture 2:00 pm | Th irty years of giving SOAS) and sponsored by Nurol in Pre-oil Kuwait: the signifi cance Th eatre, St Antony's College, 62 visibility to artists from the Arab Bank. Part of the Seminars on of date plantations (Seminar) Woodstock Road, Oxford OX2 6JF. World and Iran (Seminar) Rose Turkey series. Convened by Eran Segal, SOAS. Organised by: T 01865 284780 E ahmed.al-shahi@ Issa. Organised by: Th e Khalili Benjamin Fortna, SOAS. Admission Department of History, SOAS. sant.ox.ac.uk W www.sant.ox.ac.uk Research Centre, Oxford (KRC). free. Room 116, SOAS. T 020 7898 Seminar on the History of the Near

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 31 The Other Side of Paradise (See Exhibitions, page 34) and Middle East. Admission free. Middle East Institute, SOAS Tuesday 13 March Art Circle at SOAS. Part of Room G3, SOAS. E [email protected] (LMEI). Part of the LMEI's Tuesday the Islamic Art Circle at SOAS W www.soas.ac.uk/history/events/ Evening Lecture Programme on 5:45 pm | Le Monde diplomatique Lecture Programme. Chaired by nmehistseminar/ the Contemporary Middle East, (Lecture) Alain Gresh; Gilbert Doris Behrens-Abouseif, SOAS. Th e Middle East in Transition: a Achcar, SOAS. Organised by: Admission free. Khalili Lecture 6:00 pm | Banquet in fableland: new social economic and political London Middle East Institute, SOAS Th eatre, SOAS. T 0771 408 7480 real and imagined worlds in landscape? Tea and biscuits (LMEI). Part of the LMEI's Tuesday E [email protected] W glyptic iconography (Seminar) available from 5:30pm. Admission Evening Lecture Programme on www.soas.ac.uk Birger Helgestad, BM. Part of free. Khalili Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. the Contemporary Middle East, LCANE Spring Seminar Series T 020 7898 4490 E [email protected] Th e Middle East in Transition: a 2012 'New Research'. Convened by W www.soas.ac.uk/lmei/events/ new social economic and political Th ursday 15 March Mark Weeden. SOAS. Admission landscape? Tea and biscuits free. Room G51, SOAS. E ag5@soas. available from 5:30pm. Admission 6:00 pm | Critical Rationalism and ac.uk W www.soas.ac.uk/nme/ane/ Monday 12 March free. Khalili Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. Religious and Political Reform lcane/ T 020 7898 4490 E [email protected] in Iran (Lecture) Organised by: 5:15 pm | Saddam Hussein's Ba`th W www.soas.ac.uk/lmei/events/ Middle East Centre, LSE. Sir Karl 6:30 pm | Men Who Tiptoe Into Party: Inside an Authoritarian Popper Memorial Lecture. Th e Th eir Marital Bedrooms: the Regime (Seminar) Joseph Sassoon, Wednesday 14 March intellectual Abdulkarim Soroush novelist and dictatorship (Lecture) Georgetown University. Organised will discuss the role of philosophy – Hisham Matar, Libyan novelist, by: Department of History, SOAS. 4:30 pm | Social media, surveillance and Popper's thought in particular author of 'In the Country of Men Seminar on the History of the Near & identity in the Bahrain Uprising – in Iranian religious and political and Anatomy of a Disappearance'. and Middle East. Admission free. (Seminar) Marc Owen Jones, PhD reform. Chaired by John Worrall. Organised by: Department of Room G3, SOAS. E [email protected] student, School of Government Admission free, pre-registration Development Studies, SOAS. Part of W www.soas.ac.uk/history/events/ and International Aff airs, Durham required. Sheikh Zayed Th eatre, ‘Th e Globalisation Lectures’ series. nmehistseminar/ University. Organised by: LSE New Academic Building, LSE. T Convened by Gilbert Achcar, SOAS. Kuwait Programme. Using Bahrain 020 7955 6365 E [email protected] W Admission free. Brunei Gallery 7:00 pm | An Approach to as a case study, this seminar will www2.lse.ac.uk/middleEastCentre/ Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. E ga3@soas. Symbolism in Islamic Art explore how social media is used by home.aspx ac.uk W www.soas.ac.uk/about/ (Lecture) Organised by: Th e the regime and hegemonic forces events/ Temenos Academy. Doors open to quell dissent. Admission free. Friday 16 March 6:30pm. Lecture by Jason Elliott, KSW 1.04, 20 Kingsway, LSE. T the author of 'An Unexpected Light: 0207 955 6639 E [email protected] 1:15 pm | Jerusalem the Golden: Tuesday 6 March Travels in Afghanistan' and 'Mirrors W www2.lse.ac.uk/government/ the Church of the Holy Sepulchre of the Unseen: Journeys in Iran'. research/resgroups/kuwait/home. models (Gallery Talk) Jonathan 5:45 pm | Between Ideology and Tickets: £5/£3.50 conc. Th e Royal aspx Williams, BM. Organised by: Pragmatism: Zionism in National Asiatic Society, 14 Stephenson BM. Admission free. Room 3, Socialist Jewish Policy (Lecture) Way, London NW1 2HD. T 01233 7:00 pm | Th e Archaeology of BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ Francis Nicosia, University of 813663 E temenosacademy@ Suakin (Lecture) Jacke Phillips, britishmuseum.org W www. Vermont. Organised by: London myfastmail.com SOAS. Organised by: Islamic britishmuseum.org

32 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 6:30 pm | Th e Magnetism of its transient struggles (Seminar) Institute of Persian Studies (BIPS). E [email protected] W www2.lse. Mecca: Hajj as artistic inspiration Tony Nasrallah, SOAS. Organised For further details see the BIPS/ ac.uk/middleEastCentre/home.aspx (Discussion) Organised by: BM. by: Department of History, SOAS. LMEI websites. E [email protected] Artists Idris Khan, Peter Saunders, Seminar on the History of the Near W www.bips.ac.uk 1:15 pm | One Th ousand Roads to and Ahmed Mater, whose works and Middle East. Admission free. Mecca (Lecture) Organised by: BM. feature in the Hajj exhibition, Room G3, SOAS. E [email protected] 6:30 pm | Hajj Among Pilgrimages Talk by the author Michael Wolfe discuss with Exhibition Curator W www.soas.ac.uk/history/events/ (Discussion) Malise Ruthven, on the shared Abrahamic roots Venetia Porter how the spiritual nmehistseminar/ author; Tim Winter, University of the Hajj rites and the modern and cultural aspects of Hajj haven of Cambridge. Organised by: transformation of the original taken them on their own journeys. 6:00 pm | Karkamiš Revisited BM. A look at the contemporary pilgrimage routes. Admission Tickets: £5/£3 BM Members/conc. (Seminar) David Hawkins, SOAS. experiences of Hajj and its unique free. Stevenson Lecture Th eatre, BP Lecture Th eatre, BM. T 020 7323 Organised by: LCANE. Part of nature in relation to pilgrimage BM. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ 8181 E [email protected] LCANE Spring Seminar Series experiences across cultures and britishmuseum.org W www. W www.britishmuseum.org 2012 'New Research'. Convened by faiths. Tickets: £5/£3 BM Members/ britishmuseum.org Mark Weeden. SOAS. Admission conc. BP Lecture Th eatre, BM. Saturday 17 March free. Room G51, SOAS. E ag5@soas. T 020 7323 8181 E tickets@ 7:00 pm | Rumi's Teachings of ac.uk W www.soas.ac.uk/nme/ane/ britishmuseum.org W www. Love (Lecture) H M Ghomshei. TBC | Norouz: Th e Iranian New lcane/ britishmuseum.org Organised by: Th e Temenos Year (Celebration) Tickets TBC Academy. Doors open 6:30pm. Th e Great Room, Grosvenor 7:00 pm | Rumi and the Perennial Saturday 24 March Tickets: £5/£3.50 conc. Th e Royal House Hotel, Park Lane, London Philosophy (Lecture) H M Asiatic Society, 14 Stephenson W1K 7TN. T 020 7493 4766 E Ghomshei. Organised by: Th e 10:00 am | British Institute of Way, London NW1 2HD. T 01233 [email protected] W www. Temenos Academy. Doors open Persian Studies (BIPS) Annual 813663 E temenosacademy@ iranheritage.org 6:30pm. Tickets: £5/£3.50 conc. Th e Workshop Organised by: British myfastmail.com Royal Asiatic Society, 14 Stephenson Institute of Persian Studies (BIPS). TBC | Th e Struggle for Democracy Way, London NW1 2HD. T 01233 See listing for Friday 23 March for Tuesday 27 March in Palestine and the Middle East: 813663 E temenosacademy@ details. realities, prospects, dialectics myfastmail.com 9:00 am | Revolution and Revolt: (Conference) Organised by: SOAS 7:00 pm | Persian New Year Norouz Understanding the Forms Palestine Society and hosted by Celebrations at SOAS (Organised and Causes of Change (Th ree- the London Middle East Institute, Wednesday 21 March by: Centre for Iranian Studies, LMEI, Day Conference: Monday 26 - SOAS (LMEI). Th e 2012 Annual SOAS) A celebration of Norouz with Wednesday 28 March) See listing Palestine Conference. Tickets: TBC 5:30 pm | Anthropology, History music, poetry and food. Programme for Monday 26 March for details. Brunei Gallery Lecture Th eatre, and Linguistics: Ataturk and the and tickets available online from SOAS. E [email protected] W New Turkish Nationalism, 1922- mid-February W www.soas.ac.uk/ Wednesday 28 March www.soaspalsoc.org 1938 (Lecture) Şükrü Hanioğlu, iranianstudies/events/ Tickets: Princeton University. Organised by: £25/£15 students. Brunei Gallery 9:00 am | Revolution and Revolt: 1:15 pm | Arabic and Arabesque: LSE Contemporary Turkish Studies Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. T 020 7898 Understanding the Forms themes in Islamic art (Gallery Talk) and SOAS. Chaired by Benjamin 4330 E [email protected] W www. and Causes of Change (Th ree- Carolyn Perry, independent lecturer. Fortna, SOAS. Admission free. soas.ac.uk/iranianstudies/ Day Conference: Monday 26 - Organised by: BM. Admission free. Khalili Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. T Wednesday 28 March) See listing Room 34, BM. T 020 7323 8181 020 7955 6067 E euroinst.turkish. for Monday 26 March for details. E [email protected] W [email protected] W www2.lse. Monday 26 March www.britishmuseum.org ac.uk/europeanInstitute/research/ 7:00 pm | Form & Meaning in Rumi: ContemporaryTurkishStudies/ 9:15 am | Revolution and Revolt: an aesthetic approach (Lecture) H 2:00 pm | Roads to Mecca (Film) Home.aspx Understanding the Forms M Ghomshei. Organised by: Th e Organised by: BM. Dirs Taran and Causes of Change (Th ree- Temenos Academy. Doors open Davies & Ghasem Ebrahimian 7:00 pm | Th e Discourses of Day Conference: Monday 26 - 6:30pm. Tickets: £5/£3.50 conc. Th e (2010), 60 min. Documentary Rumi (Lecture) H M Ghomshei. Wednesday 28 March) Organised Royal Asiatic Society, 14 Stephenson following the Muslim and non- Organised by: Th e Temenos by: British Society for Middle Way, London NW1 2HD. T 01233 Muslim members of a fi lm crew Academy. Doors open 6:30pm. Eastern Studies (BRISMES) and 813663 E temenosacademy@ as they try to make the fi rst IMAX Tickets: £5/£3.50 conc. Th e Royal hosted by Th e Middle East Centre at myfastmail.com movie on Hajj, Journey to Mecca. Asiatic Society, 14 Stephenson LSE. BRISMES Annual Conference Admission free. Stevenson Lecture Way, London NW1 2HD. T 01233 2012. Th e unprecedented uprisings 5:30 pm | Arabia: the untold Th eatre, BM. T 020 7323 8181 E 813663 E temenosacademy@ in the Middle East over the past year story of the fi rst modern human [email protected] W myfastmail.com have drawn comparisons with a wide pioneers (Lecture) Eleanor Scerri, at www.britishmuseum.org scope of revolts, this conference will Southampton University. Organised Friday 23 March seek to place the focus on a multi- by: British Foundation for the Study Monday 19 March disciplinary consideration of the of Arabia (BFSA) in association 2:00 pm | British Institute of local and regional forces which with London Middle East Institute, 5:15 pm | Charles Malik’s Political Persian Studies (BIPS) Annual have fuelled the uprisings. Various SOAS (LMEI). Admission free. Profi le: Lebanon’s permanence and Workshop Organised by: British ticket prices. LSE. T 020 7955 6365 Khalili Lecture Th eatre, SOAS. E

February-March 2012 The Middle East in London 33 Centre, Oxford. Admission free. High Street, London W8 6NA. T Middle East Centre, 62 Woodstock 020 7602 7700 E [email protected] Road, Oxford OX2 6JF. T 01865 W www.roseissa.com 284780 W www.sant.ox.ac.uk Until 7 March | Khaled Akil: Th e Tuesday 6 March Unmentioned Khaled Akil's latest exhibition explores the social, 2:00 pm | Art of the Middle East political, sexual and religious issues (Seminar) Saeb Eigner. Organised facing Syria. Admission free. Lahd by: Th e Khalili Research Centre, Gallery, 92 Heath Street, London Oxford (KRC). KRC Research NW3 1DP. T 020 7435 7323 E Seminar on Contemporary Middle [email protected] W www. Eastern Art. Admission free. lahdgallery.com Lecture Room, Khalili Research Centre, University of Oxford, 3 St Until 15 April | Hajj: journey to John Street, Oxford OX1 2LG. T the heart of Islam Examining the 01865 278 222 E farzaneh.pirouz- logistics involved, the exhibition [email protected] W www. compares how pilgrims over krc.ox.ac.uk the centuries negotiated this undertaking and how it continues Friday 9 March to be experienced today. Various ticket prices. BM. T 020 7323 8181 5:00 pm | Saddam Hussein’s Ba’th W www.britishmuseum.org Party: inside an Authoritarian Regime (Seminar) Joseph Sassoon. Friday 3 February Organised by: Middle East Centre, SOAS. See Events Outside London Until 30 March | A Tribute to listing for Friday 2 March for details. Adonis A tribute to the Syrian poet, Adonis, winner of the 2011 Goethe Th ursday 15 March Prize and a favourite for the Nobel Prize for Literature, which includes TBC | Asmaa (Film) Organised an exhibition of his drawings and a by: Brighton and Sussex Medical series of literary events celebrating School. Part of the Ethics in his life. Admission free. Th e Performance series. Dir Amr Mosaic Rooms, 226 Cromwell Salama. Real-life story about an Road, London, SW5 0SW. W www. The Unmentioned (See Exhibitions, page 34) Egyptian widow with HIV who mosaicrooms.org battles to overcome society's prejudices and receive proper Th ursday 9 February [email protected] W Equinox, Norouz. Activities will treatment. To be followed by a panel www.societyforarabianstudies.org include fi lm screenings, a specially discussion and Q&A. Tickets TBC. Until 31 March | Laila Shawa: Th e commissioned score by Fari Bradley, Chowen Lecture Th eatre, Brighton Other Side of Paradise Exhibition Friday 30 March and workshops in geometric design and Sussex Medical School, Falmer, of canvases and sculptures by Laila and felt making. Persian food and Brighton BN1 9PX. E s.eckstein@ Shawa, an artist known for her 1:15 pm | Journey to Mecca: In the tea will be served and the evening bsms.ac.uk / [email protected] uncompromising documentation footsteps of Ibn Battuta (Film) will end with a Norouz New Year W www.bsms.ac.uk/research/our- of events in today’s Middle East. Organised by: BM. Also on Friday Countdown. Admission free, some research/medical-ethics/ A workshop to accompany the 30 March. Dir Bruce Neibaur (2009), events may be ticketed. Victoria and exhibition will take place on 45 min. Film based on the true story Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, Saturday 11 February along with of Ibn Battuta, who set out from London SW7 2RL. T 020 7942 2000 EXHIBITIONS a talk by the artist on Saturday 18 Morocco in 1325 on an epic journey W www.vam.ac.uk February. Admission free. October to the sacred city of Mecca. Followed Wednesday 1 February Gallery, 24 Old Gloucester Street, by a discussion with the fi lmmakers. London WC1N 3AL. T 020 7242 Admission free. Stevenson Lecture EVENTS OUTSIDE Until 25 February | Farhad 7367 W www.octobergallery.co.uk Th eatre, BM. T 020 7323 8181 E LONDON Ahrarnia: 'Canary in a Coal Mine' [email protected] W For his second solo show with Rose www.britishmuseum.org Friday 2 March Issa Projects, Ahrarnia has created larger-format works inspired by the 6:30 pm | Friday Late: Night of 5:00 pm | Truman to Bush: Th e idea of the caged canary, singing in Norouz Organised by: Victoria Impact of the Middle East on the the depths of the ground, digging and Albert Museum. Celebration US Presidency (Seminar) Roger into the fabric of life. Admission free. of the ancient festival of the Spring Adelson. Organised by: Middle East Rose Issa Projects, 269 Kensington

34 The Middle East in London February-March 2012 The Idea of Iran: the age of the great Saljuqs

The north dome of the Great Mosque at Isfahan, 1088 (photo Josephine Powell) in Eƫ nghausen R, Grabar O, Jenkins-Madina M (1987), Islamic Art and Architecture, 650-1250, Pelican Books, Harmondsworth, Middlesex (Yale University Press). A Symposium

Organised by Saturday 4th February 2012 The Centre for Iranian Studies, 9.40am - 6.10pm (RegistraƟ on from 9.00am) SOAS Brunei Gallery Lecture Theatre and School of Oriental and African Studies The Faculty of Oriental Studies, Russell Square University of Oxford London WC1H 0XG Supported by Admission The Soudavar Memorial FoundaƟ on £15.00; £10.00 conc. (OAPs & LMEI Aĸ liates) Students Free (to include lunch)

Enquiries & Bookings Tel. No. 020 7898 4490 E-mail: [email protected] Soudavar www.soas.ac.uk/iranianstudies/ FoundaƟ on February-MarchLMEI, Oxford 2012 The Middle East in London 35 36 The Middle East in London February-March 2012