I - 1 - 1

Chapter One Introduction to the Territory of

1.1 The Territory of America Samoa American Samoa is not a single island; rather it consists of five volcanic, high islands For readers that lack an intimate knowledge and two coral atolls. Island is the largest of American Samoa, this brief introduction has volcanic island, the most populated island, and been provided to kindle your interest in the Territory’s administrative center. Aunu’u, a discovering the Territory of American Samoa. populated remnant of a volcanic cone, lies just off Tutuila’s southeastern coast. The small This chapter, which highlights American volcanic islands of Ofu, Olosega and Ta’u form Samoa’s features, and Chapter T wo, State-of- the Manu’a Islands group that is located seventy the -T erritor y, are provided as the foundation for miles east of Tutuila. Two coral atolls, Swains your understanding of the Territory’s ambience, Island, a privately owned island, and Rose Island, what its development issues are, and what a wildlife refuge, lie several hundred miles north policies the government will focus upon for the and east of Tutuila. These islands are seen on future. the back of the front cover of this plan as a reduction of a commercially available map American Samoa is an unincorporated, prepared by the University of Hawaii Press. unorganized territory of the United States of America. American enjoy most of the 1.2 The Territory’s Land and Location benefits of being a United States citizen, including the freedom to choose their own 1.2.1 Tutuila, the Main Island elected representatives and to mo ve freely within the United States. An explanation of American American Samoa is the only U.S. possession Samoa’s political status is provided in section 1.5 situated south of the equator. It is quite a long at the end of this chapter.

Figure 1.1 Tutuila Island Part I: Chapter One I - 1 - 2 Introduction to American Samoa distance from the continental United States. reaches 3,170 feet in elevation. Ofu and Tutuila’s International Airport is Olosega, together, stretch three miles east to situated 172° 42N west longitude and 14° 20N west and equal the length of Ta’u island. south latitude. It is about 2,300 miles south-southwest an d fi ve Figure 1.2 The Islands of Ofu and Olosega hours flying time from Honolulu, Hawaii or 4,500 miles and a ten hour flight from Los Angeles, California.1

Tutuila’s nearest neighboring island is Upolu, the second largest island of the Samoan archipelago. Its largest town is Apia, the seat of the Independent State of Samoa. A flight to Apia takes forty minutes flying time from Pago Pago International Airport.

Tutuila’s land area is estimated at 56.0 square miles, that is seventy-two percent of the total Territorial land area of 76.1 square miles.2 Tutuila supports ninety- seven percent of the Territory’s population of 57,2913 people on a relatively flat but narrow coastal bench that lies Together, they are about a third the size of between the shoreline and the foot of the steep Tutuila, which spans a distance of approximately mountainsides, which reach to 2,142 feet for the twenty miles.5 island’s highest peak, Mt. Matafao.4 The population of 1,379 people live on the narrow coastal fringes between the steep slope Tutuila’s rugged and picturesque mountains of the mountains and the sea. The population of are an outstanding feature of the island. Other the Manu’a Island group has been declining over scenic features are the deep water port of Pago the last century due to its remoteness.6 Pago Bay, the rugged and forested National Park, and Fagatel e Bay, a national ma rine sanctua ry. Manu’a is known for its natural beauty and remote location away fro m b ustli ng T utuila. It is an ideal location to find serenity in the South Tutuila Island formally became a possession Pacific and a most desirable vacation destination of the United States with a Deed of Cession because of its pristine isles and lack of urban signed by its ran kin g chiefs on A pri l 17, 1900 . In infrastructure. 1904 the chiefs of the Manu’a islands formally joined the union and the Territory of American 1.3 Climate and Environment Samoa. American Samoa’s climate is warm and 1.2.2 Manu’a Islands humid with abundant rainfall. On average, the Pago Pago International Airport receives 135 The Manu’a Island group, consisting of Ofu, inches per year, but rainfalls average between Olosega and Ta’u islands, are high volcanic 120 and 240 inches per year at different islands. They are the tips of ancient volcanoes locations. The amount varies due the location of that rise sharply from the sea. Ta’u, the largest mountain peaks and the resulting orographic of the three small islands, appears as the rainfall. The Summer months, December northern half of an eroded volcano crest and through February, a re si gnific antly wetter than Part I: Chapter One I - 1 - 3 Introduction to American Samoa other times of the year, but American Samoa Almost ninety percent of the residents of does not have a rainy season and at least a trace American Samoa are still Samoans, but there of rain fal ls on approximate ly 300 days each are many more people living on Tutuila. The year.7 Census counted 55,912 Tutuila residents, along Despite the heavy rainfall, there are no lakes with 1,379 Manu'a Islanders. Thus the population and only a few perennial stream s i n th e T erritor y, of Tutuila increased fourteen-fold during the due to the steep topography, limited land mass Twentieth Centu ry, while Manu'a lost a portion of and porous volcanic soils. its already-small population. The Manu’a Islands now comprise only two and four tenths of the The Samoa archipelago, which includes the tot al population of t he Territor y. Independent State of Samoa, lies within a region that is annually threatened by hurricanes. The majority of the Territory’s population Although American Samoa is not regularly resides at two areas of Tutuila, the Pago Pago affected by hurricanes, five powerful hurricanes Bay area and the T afuna Plain. have struck the Territory’s islands in the last forty years (1966, 1979, 1987, 1990 and 1991). Each 1.4.1 Pago Pago Bay have passed over at least one of American Samoa’s islands. Hurricane Val (1991) resulted The Pago Pago Bay area was not the first in tens of millions of dollars damage to T utuila’s place to be settled by missionaries in the mid- public and private infrastructure and similar 1800s, but it very quickly became the center of damage to the islands of Ofu, Olosega and Ta’u. Thus, the government stands on alert and maintains an Figure 1.3 Pago Pago Bay emergency preparedness program.

1.4 Population and Human Settlement

When the islands of the Samoa archipelago were partitioned one hundred years ago and t he easternmost islands were ceded to the United States, approximately 4,000 people, including Americans and Europeans were resident on the main island of Tutuila. About 1,750 Samoans lived in the outlying Manu'a group.8 commercial activities as a result of its sheltered In the 2000 Decennial Census the ethnic deep water port. After the partition of the Samoa composition of the population was little changed. islands and cession to the United States in 1900, the Territory was administered by the U.S. Part I: Chapter One I - 1 - 4 Introduction to American Samoa

Navy Department and the bay area became the programs that will revitalize of the colonial seat of the new Territorial government. architectural them e. The small villages lining the bay’s shoreline The Pago Pago Bay still remains the seat of grew slowly during the first half of the Twentieth government and the dominant center for Centu ry. The village of became the commerce and employment, although the Tafuna Territory’s commercial center as well as the Plain a