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PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to Rarotonga,

welcome to Think lush, reef-fringed & ...... 2 Rarotonga, islands with sandy foreshores that virtually Samoa & glow in the tropical Map ...... 4 Tonga sunshine. These are the central South Pacific islands 15 Top Experiences ...... 6 that dreams are made of. Need to Know ...... 14 If You Like...... 16 Month by Month ...... 19 9 Island Escape sense of verdancy is so strong that you can almost5 hear the heilala (Tonga’s national Scattered over a vast expanse of empty Á ower), DAN HERRICK / LONELY PLANET IMAGESteuila © (Samoan red ginger), fran- ocean, these islands are a castaway’s dream gipani and hibiscus Á owers stretching up- come true. If you’ve ever fantasised about COUNTRYCCOUNTRY &&M MULTICOUNTRYMMULTICCOUOUNTUNTRRY PHRASEBOOK wards. After the rain, the tropical bouquet escaping to a remote desert island, far from can be so pervading that you’ll wish you Itineraries ...... 22 the hustle and hum of the modern world, could bottle it up and take it home. The then look no further than these fascinating pristine oceanic depths that thread through islands. Here you’ll À nd a couple of thou- this PaciÀ c enclave host thousands of spe- ThThe originali i l sand years of Polynesian culture sitting • cies of marine life, from kaleidoscopic coral side by side with some of the most spectac- to the Á ukes of humpback whales that come Which Island? ...... 26 ular natural scenery in the South PaciÀ c. to spawn their young in the warm waters. Paradise The Polynesian Smile • Comprehensive The idyllic norm in these small island na- People here are so passionately idiosyn- tions involves lush, reef-fringed islands with cratic that almost every encounter yields sandy foreshores that virtually glow in the a memorable moment. Locals can burst Adventurous Outdoor Adventures ...... 31 tropical sunshine. Even when it rains, the • Travel with Children ...... 36

Regions at a Glance ...... 38 16

6 if you Islander HOLGER LEUE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Welcomes A garland of Á owers is like… 6 one of the most simple yet beautiful oՖ erings on the planet, and no one gives out more of these than the Looking for other travel resources? people of the PaciÀ c. There’s a selÁ ess beauty to island welcomes that feels un- tainted by the modern world. Loudness and brashness are out, subtle hospitality and genuine goodwill are in. B e a c h e s Isolated Islands Diving & If they could give you the

Beaches, beaches and more There are some very remote Snorkelling moon, they would. beaches. These South Pa- islands out in the central These central South Pacific cific islands are surrounded South Pacific. Getting nations boast some excep- by them! Everyone has a there will take a huge ef- tional underwater spots to favourite. Go out and find fort, and finding out more check out the marine life. yours! will certainly spark the There are plenty of relative- Ofu Beach On Ofu Island in imagination. ly unknown dive sites and ’s remote Niuafo’ou Also known as ‘Tin decent operators through- Manu’a Group, this is a palm- Can Island’, Niuafo’ou is at out the region. fringed white-sand stunner Tonga’s northern extremes. It’s Vava’u, Tonga A diver’s delight, backed by ridiculously pictur- shaped like a Á oating donut with sites in Vava’u range from coral esque jagged peaks (p 158 ) an enclosed lake 23m above sea gardens and encrusted wrecks Uoleva’s west coast This island level (p 199 ) to sea caves and other geologi- in Tonga’s Ha’ Group has Suwarrow In the Cook Islands’ cal marvels (p 191 ) a spectacular leeward coast of northern group and the Samoa Many travellers use white sand lapped by surely the country’s only national park, Samoa as a place to gain their clearest water on earth. Did we Suwarrow was home to the infa- certiÀ cation and there are good mention the humpbacks that mous hermit, Tom Neale. Read operators on the main islands. breech oՖ shore? (p 188 ) of his adventures in An Island to Popular spots include Tialipi’s

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE UNDERSTAND For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 211 RAROTONGA, SAMOA chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine & TONGA can make sense of what you see

Rarotonga, Samoa & national parks & if these cou reserves were 100 pe Lonely Planet in numbers Tonga Today ...... 212 (% of country)

a throughout the Pacific History ...... 215 18 7.5 pans on of Christianity 70 12 100,000,000 190+ naries success was due to three major factors. Firstly lever ye a art, particularly the conversion of influential Tongan Culture, Religion & American Samoa Cook Islands languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered ahau. After conversion, he went on to seize control of Ha’apai 3 would be Cook Islande htful heir, Laufilitonga. Baptised in 1831, Taufa’ahau took on 51 would be Samoan 5 6 n name of Siaosi, or George, after the king of England, and 28 would be Tongan 18 would be American S by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet surname Tupou. Tradition ...... 223 Samoa Tonga on our Thorn Tree guide Myths & Legends ...... 227 1888 1889 and courthouse in Rarotonga were constructed with Ch travel forum k Islands estab- Robert Louis abour. Around NZ$2 million is gifted annually by Chin hed as a British Stevenson abandons d b t thi id d fi it l ith t i tt h d Art & Craft ...... 230 as protectorate the chilly moors of oid French inva- Scotland for his own Within 13 years, ‘Treasure Island’, and Food & Drink ...... 233 ts will be ready the warm delights of ad the Cooks to Samoa. GETTY IMAGES © STAY IN TOUCH New Zealand. lonelyplanet.com/contact AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74220-033-0 facebook.com/ 99815 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781742 200330 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

rarotonga-samoa-tonga-7-cover.indd 2 27/07/2012 2:36:43 PM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 40 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Samoa p100

American Samoa (USA) p145

Tonga p168

Rarotonga & the Cook Islands p44

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 237 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Transport ...... 238 Health ...... 243 Language

Language ...... 245 RAROTONGAN Pe’ea korua? Rarotongan (or Cook Islands Maori, as it’s also known) is a Polynesian language similar Pe’ea koutou? to New Zealand Maori and Marquesan (from (to more than two people) French Polynesia). There are minor dialectal E meitaki au. diՖ erences between many of the islands, Index ...... 257 and some northern islands have their own E vera/anu au. languages. English is spoken as a second (or ’Ine. third) language by virtually everyone. Meitaki (ma’ata). Cook Islands Maori was traditionally a spoken language, with no written form. The language, in its Rarotongan guise, was Turou! Map Legend ...... 263 written down by missionaries in the 1830s. Kia manuia! Most consonants are pronounced as they Ae./Kare. in English, although the letter ced closer to English Penei ake. sound is soft, pronounced the same English word ‘singing’, but in Raro- en occurs at the beginning of a au Ngatangi’ia). The glottal stop tak e middle of ‘uh-oh’) ilar Polynesian in writing by

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Craig McLachlan Brett Atkinson, Celeste Brash Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

RAROTONGA & Eastern ’ ...... 117 SURVIVAL GUIDE ...... 163 THE COOK ISLANDS 44 South Coast ...... 120 Directory A–Z ...... 163 RAROTONGA ...... 47 Northwestern ’Upolu . . . . .122 Getting There & Away . . . .164 Avarua ...... 51 Manono ...... 123 Getting Around ...... 165 Around the Island ...... 57 ...... 124 TONGA ...... 168 AITUTAKI ...... 69 SAVAI’I ...... 124 TONGATAPU ...... 171 PALMERSTON ...... 75 & the East Coast ...... 125 Nuku’alofa ...... 172 ’ATIU ...... 76 Central North Coast . . . . .128 Around the Island ...... 179 MA’UKE ...... 80 Northwestern Savai’i . . . . .130 Offshore Islands ...... 181 MITIARO ...... 82 South Coast ...... 132 ’EUA ...... 181 MANGAIA ...... 85 UNDERSTAND SAMOA . . . 134 HA’APAI GROUP ...... 183 NORTHERN GROUP ...... 88 Samoa Today ...... 134 Lifuka Group ...... 185 History ...... 134 Manihiki ...... 88 VAVA’U GROUP ...... 189 The Culture ...... 135 Rakahanga ...... 88 Neiafu ...... 190 Sport ...... 137 Penrhyn ...... 88 Around Vava’u ...... 196 Arts ...... 137 Pukapuka ...... 89 Southern Vava’u Islands . .197 Environment ...... 138 Suwarrow ...... 89 Eastern Vava’u Islands . . .198 SURVIVAL GUIDE ...... 138 UNDERSTAND RAROTONGA NIUA GROUP ...... 198 & THE COOK ISLANDS . . . . 89 Directory A–Z ...... 138 Niuatoputapu ...... 199 Rarotonga & the Cook Getting There & Away . . . .142 Islands Today ...... 89 Tafahi ...... 199 Getting Around ...... 143 History ...... 89 Niuafo’ou ...... 199 The Culture ...... 90 AMERICAN SAMOA . .145 UNDERSTAND TONGA . . . .200 Arts ...... 91 Tonga Today ...... 200 ...... 147 Environment ...... 91 History ...... 201 MANU’A ISLANDS ...... 158 SURVIVAL GUIDE ...... 92 The Culture ...... 202 Ofu & Olosega ...... 158 Directory A–Z ...... 92 Arts ...... 203 Ta’u ...... 159 Getting There & Away . . . . .95 Environment ...... 204 UNDERSTAND Food & Drink ...... 205 Getting Around ...... 96 AMERICAN SAMOA ...... 161 American Samoa Today . . 161 SURVIVAL GUIDE ...... 205 SAMOA ...... 100 History ...... 161 Directory A–Z ...... 205 ’UPOLU ...... 102 The Culture ...... 162 Getting There & Away . . . 207 ...... 103 Arts ...... 162 Getting Around ...... 207 Around Apia ...... 115 Environment ...... 162 › Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga 170ºW 160ºW TOKELAU (New Zealand) 0 200 km 0 120 miles (Islands not to Scale) Penrhyn 10ºS

International Date Line Rakahanga Cape Mulinu’u Manihiki Gateway to the Pukapuka underworld (p131) AMERICAN NORTHERN SAMOA Nassau (USA) COOK SAMOA ISLANDS Pulemelei Mound Savai'i Polynesia’s largest ancient Suwarrow 'Upolu PAGO structure (p132) PAGO APIA Tutuila See 'Upolu S O U T H Aitutaki Enlargement See Tutuila Traditional food, dance Enlargement P A C I F I C and music (p69) O C E A N Vava'u COOK ISLANDS Vava’u SOUTHERN Sea kayak in paradise (p189) COOK ISLANDS HA'APAI GROUP Palmerston Atoll ’Atiu Aitutaki Manuae NIUE Mitiaro Delve into hidden Takutea 20ºS limestone caves (p76) 'Atiu TONGA Ma'uke Tongatapu NUKU'ALOFA Ha’apai Rarotonga AVARUA Swim with humpback See Tongatapu whales (p183) See Rarotonga Enlargement Enlargement Mangaia

Rarotonga Avarua Enjoy breakfast at Rarotonga Ara Punanga Nui Market (p51) Tap Pue Ara Ara Tapu International u Airport AVARUA Metua Maungapiko Avatiu Black Nika'o (154m) Rock Rd Avatiu Takuva'ine Hospital Te Kaki Motu ValleyValley Valley Matavera Hill (344m) Maungatea 'Ikurangi Oroenga Matavera Te Reinga o Bluff (340m) (485m) (292m) Te Tanga Wall Pora (438m) Happy Te Manga (235m) Ara Ngatangi'ia Maungatea (653m) 'Arorangi Maungaroa (523m) School Tapu Raemaru (509m) Te Vaakauta (365m) (450m) Avana Ngatangi'ia Harbour Te Atukura Ara Motutapu SOUTH Te Rua Manga (638m) MetuaNorthern Ridge (The Needle) Te Ko'u (413m) (588m) Oneroa PACIFIC Takitumu Muri Maungatongaiti Conservation Kavera (222m) OCEAN Area Koromiri Vaima'anga Tikioki Taakoka The Pinnacles Ara Metua Titikaveka Ara Tap u Ara Metua Cross-Island Track Tikioki Beach Climb ‘the Needle’ (p59) Papua Passage Passage Avaavaroa 0 2 km 0 1 mile Top ExperiencesExperiences ›

'Upolu

Fale'ula APIA Manono Leulumoega Vailele Apolima-uta Manono-uta Mt Fiamoe Falelatai Saletele (960m) Sauniatu Samamea Mt Fito Uafato Lefaga (1028m) Ti'avea Salamumu Mulivai Samusu Satitoa Salani To Sua Ocean Trench Vavau Swim this enchanted sunken waterhole (p117) 0 20 km 0 12 miles

Pola Tutuila Nu’uuli Falls Tal Secluded deliciously cool swimming hole (p149) Vatia Sa'ilele Onenoa Masefau Aua Aunu'u Fagasa A'asu Lauli'ituai Aunu'u Fagamalo (653m)

Nu'uuli Poloa A'oloaufou Mt Olotele Tafuna Nua (493m) Leone Fagatele Bay 'Ili'ili Paradise in a submerged Vailoa volcanic crater (p152)

0 10 km 0 6 miles

Tongatapu Ha'atafu Velitoa Fafá Fukave Ha'akili Monu'afe Piha Passage Fo'ui Kolonga 'Eue'iki Puke NUKU'ALOFA Fatai Niutoua Ha'utu Nukuleka Tofoa Folaha Hoi Houma Pe'a Ha'akame Vaini Fatumu Pelehake

Lavengatonga Nuku’alofa Home to the kingdom’s royal family (p172) Fua'amotu 0 10 km 0 6 miles OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Craig McLachlan Coordinating Author, Tonga An island addict from way back, Craig has covered the islands of Greece to Okinawa to Tonga for Lonely Planet. His first foray to Tonga was as a teenager when his father, an architect, designed a resort island in the kingdom and Craig experienced his first kava session. He’s never looked back. A Kiwi who markets himself as a ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i, speaks Japanese and has written several books. Check out www.craigmclachlan.com.

Brett Atkinson Rarotonga & the Cook Islands From his home in Auckland, Brett’s travelled to many of the island nations in his South Pacific backyard. For this extended research trip to the Cook Islands, he explored the underground caves of ’Atiu, scootered and snorkelled around Aitutaki, and uncovered local foodie treats at Rarotonga’s weekly market. Venturing to far-flung and friendly Ma’uke and Mitiaro were other absolute highlights. See www.brett-atkinson.net for the latest details of his travels and freelance writing.

Celeste Brash Samoa, American Samoa Celeste first visited French Polynesia in 1991 and moved there in 1995. Her first five years were spent on a remote atoll and the next 10 on Tahiti. Throughout this time she’s travelled as far as New Zealand to the west, Easter Island and Pitcairn Island to the east and visited many dots in between. Her award-winning travel stories have appeared in Travelers’ Tales books and her travel articles have appeared in publications including the LA Times and Islands magazine. She’s written over 30 Lonely Planet guides but considers the South Pacific her speciality. She recently moved to Portland, Oregon, and often complains of the cold.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 7th edition – November 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74220 033 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 22

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

•# AITUTAKI

É

#–

#– ’ATIU •# Anatakitaki É Cave

#– É

SOUTH RAROTONGA #_ AVARUA PACIFIC •# Muri Lagoon OCEAN

É #– É Makatea Cliffs •# MANGAIA

Two Weeks Cook Islands Southern Sights

The Southern Group islands are easily accessible from Rarotonga. If you haven’t got enough time, consider just visiting the first three islands; but if you can manage to do the whole route, you won’t regret it. Start your trip with four days on Rarotonga, time for a stroll around the island’s capital, Avarua; a hike up the Cross-Island Track; a day’s snorkelling in Muri Lagoon; and a visit to the Cook Islands Cultural Village. Don’t forget to check out an island night while you’re here. Hop on a plane for the 50-minute flight to Aitutaki, hire a scooter and explore the island. A lagoon cruise is essential, but you could also consider hiring a kayak to explore some of the deserted motu (islets) around the lagoon’s edge. Then it’s another short hop to ’Atiu, where you can visit Anatakitaki, the cave of the ko- peka (’Atiuan swiftlet); sample the island’s home-grown coffee; and take a memorable eco-tour. Back to Rarotonga and onto another quick flight to Mangaia and its extraordinary caves and vast makatea cliffs, perhaps the most dramatic sight anywhere in the Cooks.

23

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Manase #• #• Lava Field É SAVAI’I To Ofu

É (100km) É

APIA ‚ É É Palolo Deep #• #f #– #_É#•

Alofaaga É Marine Reserve

Manono #• #• É

– Blowholes #• Piula Cave # ’UPOLU É ITINERARIES

Pool Rainmaker É #• Mountain Robert Louis #Ù To Sua Stevenson Beach Mt Alava Ocean Museum #f

Trench R É #_ R#• PAGO PAGO É #Ù Aunu’u TUTUILA #Ù Fagatele Bay Beach National Marine Sanctuary

Two to Three Weeks Samoan Island-Hopping

Start your Samoan experience with a visit to the delightful Palolo Deep Ma- rine Reserve on ʼUpolu, before heading inland to the charming Robert Louis Stevenson Museum. Backtrack to Apia and head eastward to the seductive sands of Lalomanu Beach, with a pit stop at Piula Cave Pool. Meander along the south coast, peeking into the sublime depths of the To Sua Ocean Trench and lazing in beach- side fale (houses). Finally, take a boat out to the island of Manono. Return to ʼUpolu to catch the ferry to Savai’i. Motor up the east coast, stopping for a dip at the beautiful beaches along the way. Now traverse the desolate lava field before depositing yourself on the sand at gregarious Manase. Return down the east coast and continue west for the wave action at the Alofaaga Blowholes, then catch the ferry back to ʼUpolu and return to Apia. Fly from here to Pago Pago in American Samoa and admire the capital’s beautiful har- bour setting. Travel east to climb Mt Alava for spectacular views, then maroon yourself on Alega Beach, detouring for a close-up of Rainmaker Mountain. Wind along the coast to Au’asi and take a small boat to the island of Aunu’u to explore its wild nature, before taking a slow ride back to Pago Pago. Alternatively, head southwest from Pago Pago to explore the pristine Fagatele Bay National Marine Sanctuary. If there’s still time, fly from Pago Pago to the island of Ofu to experience the stunning Ofu Beach – 4km of picturesque white-sand beach.

24 ‚ É To Niuas Group Mt TalauR#•

Mariner’s Cave #• #• É (240km) VAVA’U Swallows’ Cave Vava’u GROUP #f É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

LIFUKA GROUP Kao #• #• Ha’ano

É Tofua #• #f É Uoleva #• #• #f

’Uiha É

ITINERARIES HA’APAI GROUP #f #f #– É

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN NUKU’ALOFA #•Fafá #• Pangaimotu Tongatapu #_

#• TONGATAPU Mapu’a ’a Vaca Blowholes É #• GROUP Tongan Highlights É Slow Boats Around Tonga Lapaha #• Archaeological Site ’Eua

One Month Two Weeks Slow Boats Around Tonga Tongan Highlights

After spending a little time pottering Head straight to the paradisal Vava’u around Tongatapu and acclimatis- Group, Tonga’s activities playground, ing to the tropics in Nuku’alofa, either by plane or ferry. On Vava’u, head out to nearby ’Eua, either by climb up to the peak of Mt Talau for ferry or light aircraft, and spend a few days some amazing island views, then join a char- hiking through the island’s lush rainforests tered or bare-boat yacht and sail around the and exploring its caves and sinkholes. You’ll islands of the group. Change your anchorage sometimes have to climb huge, tangled ban- each night and jump off board each day to yan trees to get out. snorkel at the various sites. A multiday guid- Once back in Nuku’alofa, clamber aboard ed sea-kayak tour is another superb option. the ferry and head for the coral charms and Go out whale-watching, swim into Swal- soothing serenity of the scattered, low-lying lows’ Cave, or experience the magical fog of Ha’apai Group. Spend some time absorb- Mariner’s Cave before moving on to idyllic ing unexploited Tongan culture on friendly islands further south. Arrange your charter islands in the Lifuka Group, such as Ha’ano to sail through the Ha’apai Group en route and ’Uiha, then shack up in a beachside fale to the Tongatapu Group, or catch the ferry on Uoleva. There should be plenty of oppor- or a short flight back to the main island. tunities to see whales, and if you have the On Tongatapu, have a quick look around inclination, charter a boat to take you out to Nuku’alofa and then visit the island’s fasci- Tofua and Kao. nating archaeological excavations, including If time is not your scarcest commodity, the Lapaha archaeological site, followed continue on to the magical distractions of by the energetic Mapu’a ’a Vaca Blow- the Vava’u Group where there is just so holes. Then get yourself in holiday mode much to do…if you want to do anything, that by spending a day or two snorkelling, swim- is! The remote Niuas, three volcanic islands ming or just being lazy on one of the resort where you’ll find lava fields, untrammelled islands to the north of Tongatapu, such as ridges and languid locals, may also beckon. Pangaimotu or Fafá.

25

É #f #• Penrhyn

#• Rakahanga #• Manihiki PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

SOUTH

#f PACIFIC OCEAN ITINERARIES

É

Mitiaro #– #• É #• Ma’uke

Rarotonga #• #– É

One Month Cook Islands Northern Exposure

For those hardy travellers who are really keen to get off the beaten track, how about visiting the distant islands of the Northern Group. They’re a long, long way from the busy main island of Rarotonga, and that makes them a fantastic place to experience and appreciate traditional Cook Islands culture. You could start your voyage of discovery with the classic trip around the Southern Group of islands in the itinerary a few pages back, making sure not to miss the amazing Aitutaki lagoon and its spectacular motu. Before heading north, possibly tack on two more southern group islands – tiny Mitiaro with its lovely underground pools and Ma’uke, the garden island, with its deserted beaches and historic caves. There are flights to both of these Pacific jewels. Then it’s back to Rarotonga as a springboard to the real adventure. You could catch a plane all the way to the Northern Group islands, but it’s astronomically expensive. Defi- nitely the most adventurous way to get to the northern islands is via inter-island freighter all the way to Manihiki, the black-pearl capital of the Cook Islands, with its tiny coral atolls and massive natural lagoon. With a bit of luck there will be a boat moving on to isolated Rakahanga, or if it’s not stopping there, straight on to Penrhyn, where life is still lived very much along traditional lines. Only the hardiest and most intrepid of travellers ever make it out this far, but if you can surmount the logistical challenges, the rewards are sublime. This is not the trip to take if you’ve got any time constraints! You’ll have plenty of time to get to know the islanders and practise your fishing skills – but don’t plan on going home too soon, as the next boat might not be around for a while…

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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