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Human Nutritional Needs 46 3 Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. University Press. All © 2014. New York Copyright Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. EvEryonE Eats Second Edition Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. University Press. © 2014. New York Copyright Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. This page intentionally left blank Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. Press. All rights New York University Copyright © 2014. Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. EvEryonE Eats Understanding Food and Culture Second Edition E. N. Anderson a NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York and London Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. University Press. © 2014. New York Copyright Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York and London www.nyupress.org © 2014 by New York University All rights reserved References to Internet websites (URLs) were accurate at the time of writing. Neither the author nor New York University Press is responsible for URLs that may have expired or changed since the manuscript was prepared. LIbRary Of Congress CaTalogINg-IN-PUblication DaTa Anderson, Eugene N. (Eugene Newton), 1941– Everyone eats : understanding food and culture / E. N. Anderson. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-8147-7014-6 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8147-6006-2 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Food habits. 2. Food preferences. I. Title. GT2850.A6644 2004 394.1’2—dc22 2004014366 New York University Press books are printed on acid-free paper, and their binding materials are chosen for strength and durability. We strive to use environmentally responsible suppliers and materials to the greatest extent possible in publishing our books. Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. Press. All rights New York University Copyright © 2014. Book design by Marcelo Agudo Also available as an ebook Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. To all the unknown men and women who created the staple foods and the cuisines of the world: our greatest and least known benefactors. With special thanks to my (fortunately less obscure) mentors, especially: Paul Buell Jack Goody Solomon Katz Sidney Mintz Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. University Press. © 2014. New York Copyright Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. This page intentionally left blank Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. Press. All rights New York University Copyright © 2014. Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. ContEnts Acknowledgments ix Introduction: Everyone Eats 1 Introduction to the Second Edition: 9 One More Round 1. Obligatory Omnivores 13 2. Human Nutritional Needs 46 3. More Needs Than One 75 4. The Senses: Taste, Smell, 85 and the Adapted Mind 5. Basics: Environment and Economy 100 6. Food and Traditional Medicine 119 Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. University Press. © 2014. New York Copyright 7. Food as Pleasure 137 8. Food Classification and Communication 154 A vii B Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. Contents 9. Me, Myself, and the Others: 171 Food as Social Marker 10. Food and Religion 188 11. Change 199 12. Foods and Borders: Ethnicities, Cuisines, 225 and Boundary Crossings 13. Feeding the World 250 Appendix: Explaining It All: Nutritional 283 Anthropology and Food Scholarship Notes 293 References 305 Index 345 About the Author 353 Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. Press. All rights New York University Copyright © 2014. A viii B Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. AcknowlEdgmEnts This is the place to acknowledge some of the people who have helped me understand food over the years and thus perhaps help a small amount in saving them from the general obscurity of those who have fed the world. I wish I could extend this list indefinitely; I would like to include everyone who has ever cooked for me or grown food that I ate. My mother and my father’s mother were the first of these; they taught me the joys of eating. I thank my wife Barbara, my children, and all my family. But, to keep things manageable, let me restrict the rest of this list to my friends and advisors among the serious scholars of foodways. In addition to those singled out in my dedication, I am grateful especially to Ken Albala; Marja Anderson; Myra Appell; Marilyn Beaudry-Corbett; Alan Davidson; Alan Fix; Rachel Laudan; Françoise Sabban; Ellen Messer; Charles Perry; Nevin, Mary, and Susan Scrimshaw; Penny van Esterik; and Christine Wilson. Special thanks to Sid Mintz, who undertook the awful task of reading the entire manu- script, on which he made perceptive and insightful comments. Anony- Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. University Press. © 2014. New York Copyright mous reviewers also helped. I apologize to friends and colleagues for not devoting more attention to their work, but space is limited. Thanks also to Ilene Kalish and the wonderful editing staff of New York University Press! A ix B Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. This page intentionally left blank Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. Press. All rights New York University Copyright © 2014. Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. Everyone Eats Everyone eats rice Yet no one knows why When I say this now People laugh at me But instead of laughing along with them You ought to step back and give it some thought Think it over, and don’t let up I guarantee the time will come When you’ll really have something worth laughing at —Ryokan, Great Fool: Zen Master Ryōkan (1996) IntroduCtIon The eighteenth-century Zen poet Ryokan probes us on many levels. He is most concerned with the ultimate questions: What is life? Why live? Is there such a thing as life or existence? Indeed, if you ponder those, you will find much to laugh about. But there are more immediate, if no less laughable, questions posed by this innocent-seeming verse. Why do we eat what we eat? How did “rice” become synonymous with “food” throughout so much of eastern Asia? We may further ask, How many of our foodways are determined by biology, how many by culture? Why do we love spices, sweets, coffee? Why do the British and the French not only eat so differently but also tease each other so mercilessly about it, century after century? The Brit- ish call the French “frogs,” to which the French respond that “the Eng- 1 Copyright © 2014. New York University Press. All rights reserved. University Press. © 2014. New York Copyright lish have a hundred religions and only one sauce.” Why did pizza zoom from total obscurity to favorite American food in only a few years? In fact, human foodways are a complex result of the interaction of human A 1 B Anderson, E. N.. Everyone Eats : Understanding Food and Culture, New York University Press, 2014. ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/gu/detail.action?docID=1593778. Created from gu on 2020-12-07 04:21:58. IntrodUCtIon nutritional needs, ecology, human logic or lack of it, and historical acci- dent. Humans make food, but, as Karl Marx said of history, “they do not make it just as they please” (Marx 1986:276). They construct their foodways within limits set by biology, economics, and psychology. There is an infinite number of possible dietary regimes, but no dietary regime can long endure if it does not provide protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, and necessary minerals. Ryokan also stimulates us to ask, Who developed the staple foods that support us? Who created the wondrous variety and complexity of cuisines that so greatly enrich our lives? The answer is thought provok- ing, and this time the humor is subdued and gentle.
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