DOCSLIB.ORG

A Global Dialogue on Luxury in the 21St Century

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
A Global Dialogue on Luxury in the 21St Century A GLOBAL DIALOGUE ON LUXURY IN THE ��ST CENTURY PRESENTED BY NEUE LUXURY Issue No.2 bpmcorp.com.au BPM HEAD OFFICE 332 South Road Hampton East VIC 3188 WELCOME Telephone +613 9555 9821 Facismile +613 9555 9824 A note from BPM. www.bpmcorp.com.au JOHN PUBLISHER The BPM paper is published twice yearly by 3 Deep Design Pty Ltd under the ALBRECHT Neue Luxury masthead. 3 Deep 35A/91 Moreland Street Footscray, Victoria 3011 Australia Telephone +61 3 9687 4899 Facsimile +61 3 9687 5133 Email: [email protected] Web: www.3deep.com.au Welcome to the second issue of The BPM Paper; a broadsheet capturing EDITOR IN CHIEF Brett Phillips the unique perspectives, insights and dialogue from those redefining our [email protected] engagement with luxury in the 21st century, whilst celebrating those at the Telephone +61 3 9687 4899 nexus of creativity, art and commerce. EDITOR Roj Amedi One of the great virtues of art is that it enables us to see the world differently, [email protected] while affording us the freedom to explore the intersections of our senses, EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR emotions and intellect. In this spirit, our second issue explores the many David Roennfeldt INSIGHT By Ray Edgar JA: The most notable phenomenon in the last eight years has been a very layers, dimensions and nuances of obsession. [email protected] affluent Asian community initiating the repatriation and reassessment of Once upon a time collectors were as eclectic and obsessive as the grand their own art and artefacts. The most notable example in the antiques CREATIVE DIRECTOR th Obsession is a strange beast. Complex in nature and more often than not Lachlan Sumner auction house themselves and true collectors filled their homes with their industry is the 18 century Qing dynasty vase that turned up in an English stigmatised as a negative condition or disorder over which we have no control. [email protected] obsessions. “It’s become too sanitised,” says John Albrecht, proprietor and provincial auction house, which was eventually sold for £65 million. For some, including BPM, obsession can be liberating, a modus operandi of managing director of Leonard Joel, lamenting a change in collecting habits. RE: What else is highly coveted at present? SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR sorts that provides an effectual mechanism to sharpen resolve, channel effort Brett Phillips Since its inception 95 years ago Leonard Joel has been a grand JA: Anything in post-war modern design: furniture, objects, lighting, fittings. or help clarify intent. For others, obsession can be a burden of compulsion, [email protected] auction house. “We basically sell every category across every price RE: What’s driving the popularity of mid-century design? obligation, apprehension and fear. point,” explains Albrecht. JA: Globally there has been a profound change of taste in the past ten years INTERNS Tom Clapin However, in the world of collecting, it’s the collectors themselves who and a movement away from the traditional. It’s being influenced by the Our September issue is obsessed with the iconoclasts, leaders, makers and are the rare commodity. Architecture is partly to blame for changing tastes. way people live. Everyone has lots of windows and no walls. Architecture brands that pursue their ideas relentlessly, unceasingly and with a singular ACCOUNTS Once bountiful, baroque interiors—synonymous with the classic collector has had a profound affect on the way people collect. Gary Charman vision that makes it possible for them to change our view of the world. We [email protected] —have been replaced by far more minimalist interiors. Meanwhile RE: Out of all of the obsessive collectors, the people who unwittingly explore the art of edification and how the luxury bestowed upon the Roman values too have changed—price, not aesthetic, dominates discussion. came across an object of extreme value, like the Rare Late Victoria Diamond Catacomb Saints (p2) played a role in abating the iconoclasm of the 17th ADVERTISING & DISTRIBUTION Albrecht marks the change occurring in the 1980s. “Pre-1980s was the Pendant or the Rare Antique Natural Pearl, are what seem to truly excite you. Brett Phillips century. We contrast the obsessions of Italian architect Achille Salvagni (p17) [email protected] period where connoisseurs loved things because they were beautiful, not JA: It was complete chance that the natural pearl survived in a box of with that of curator, director and polygot, Adeline Ooi (p20). Without because they were valuable. That is rarely found today.” costume jewellery for the best part of 50 years. It went to a Fifth Avenue apprehension, fear or anxiety we obsess over the complex, evocative and © Neue Luxury MMXV As part of the venerable auction house’s 95th anniversary celebrations, jeweller in New York for $US130,000, and really made a difference in the ISSN: 2201-6309 monumental portraiture of artist Johan Van Mullem (p4) and contrast his Albrecht produced a book on ninety-five treasures that captured the soul lives of those who sold the piece. They had no idea what they had. They’re oeuvre with that of botanical artist, Azuma Makoto (p7). In expanding our SPECIAL THANKS: and eclecticism of collecting. Albrecht reflects on the public’s changing the stories I really like. When you have gracious undemanding sellers, you John Albrecht, Roj Amedi, Donna Anthony, Fiona Banner, Les Banner, Niamh Barry, Hayley Bonham, Ashley Bramich, global footprint we also travel a few miles outside the Basque city of San Daniel Burns, Mark Buxton, Fiona Byrne, Michelle Campbell, Mario-Luca Carlucci, Earl Carter, Rosanna Cator, Gary Charman, taste and obsessions. can often deliver a sensational result. I describe our industry as ‘the Tom Clapin, Derek Cohen, Alessandro Corallo, Stephen Crafti, Cara Cunningham, Neil Davies, Paola DiTrocchio, Aaron Dunn, Sebastián to speak with Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz—a man whose vision and Ray Edgar, Inge Fransen, Rainald Franz, David Gonzalvo Gargallo, Andy Gaunt, Sam Gray, Jonathan Hallinan, Briony economy of beautiful things and interesting people’. When interesting culinary obsessions know no bounds (p9). Hamilton, Angela Hesson, Graham Imeson, Flavio Incarbone, Damian J Cessario, Karina Jessica, Paul Koudounaris, Shawn RAY EDGAR: What’s the distinction between passion and obsession? people, with beautiful stories and beautiful things come together; that to Kuruneru, David LaChapelle, Benjamin Law, Vincent Lazzara, Monique Le Grand, Bonnie Ledsam, Katarina Ljahovic, Andoni Luiz Aduriz, Azuma Makoto, Stephanie Marsh, Matthew Martin, Thomas Matyk, Peter McNeil, Kyungah Min, Sean JOHN ALBRECHT: Obsession is passion out of control. me is exciting. It’s not necessarily about the most valuable things. Mulquiney, Eri Narita, Susana Nieto Muñoz, Adeline Ooi, Charlemagne Palestine, Ally Parry, Napoleon Perdis, George Pesutto, Each of the artisans and brands featured within this issue are finding success Brett Phillips, Angelika Pirkl, Allain Pool, John Poulakis, Mary Poulakis, Ross Poulakis, Steven Pranica, Marek Reichman, RE: What creates an obsession? RE: The Rare Victorian Sterling Silver Mounted Novelty Claret Jug in the form not just through their endeavours but by acknowledging their roles as cultural Michiel Reuevecamp, Tim Richardson, Georgio Riello, David Roennfeldt, Troy Roennfeldt, Noriaki Sakamoto, Achille JA: People ultimately collect memories. If bottle-tops remind them of a Walrus seems more quirky than beautiful. Salvagni, Kathryn Simon, Tanit Sindin Cordery, Kaya Sorhaindo, Maryanne Stanic, Lachlan Sumner, Melvin Tanaya, Daniel ambassadors, sensory agents and hubs of knowledge. As a consequence each Thawley, Paul Tierney, Sissel Tolaas, Natalie Toman, Megan Travers, Al Trombetta, Kathleen Twentyman, Lyna Ty, Walter of something, that’s usually where the obsession begins. There’s almost JA: It went to London in the end. If it’s quirky and challenging and a little Van Beirendonck, Johan Van Mullem, Natalie Van Mullum, Oscar Villegas, Lucy Waddington, Alice Walters, Samuel Willett, are forging long lasting and more meaningful relationships with their patrons Christian Witt-Dörring, Carla Wood. 101 Collins Street, 3 Deep, Achille Salvagni Architetti, AKG Images, Art Basel, BPM, always an element of nostalgia driving a collector. bit spooky and not just pleasant, it will find a market. There was a whole and audiences. A notion to which BPM strongly subscribes and one we strive Corinne Vionnet, Cover to Cover, CTC Commercial Translation Centre, David LaChapelle, Execujet, Ferretti Group, Folie RE: Who are the obsessive collectors? Victorian period where it got pretty grotesque—attaching live beetles to Á Plusieurs, Harrolds Luxury Department Store, IPG Media, Leonard Joel, MagCirc, MAK–Österreichisches Museum für to fulfil as part of our own remit. It seems fitting for me to be able to bring angewandte Kunst, Mugaritz, Multyflex, National Gallery of Victoria, Publishers Internationale, Qantas, Song for the Mute, JA: I’ve never met a barrister that didn’t collect in an interesting way— brooches and rendering with animals. The Victorian period has a reputation this culture to life in such a potent and engaging way for you to discover. Sonos, Sutton PR Asia, Vranken Pommery, Walter Van Beirendonck. anything from a stuffed piranha to a non-descript European painting. for a reason, being sort of lavish, over the top and nonsensical. Page footer image credits: Maimonides (commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Blaisio Ugolino). Beau Brummell (commons. RE: Do collectors fit a particular demographic? RE: Yet the Victorian period usually suggests stuffiness? wikimedia.org/wiki/User:BrummellEngrvFrmMiniature). Ugo Betti (commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Indeciso42). Peter I trust that you will enjoy the issue. I know that our team has obsessed over Saville (flickr.com/photos/dullhunk). Kanye West (lickr.com/photos/super45). Barbra Streisand (commons.wikimedia. JA: It’s not age specific, but they undoubtedly require the funding to make JA: Both. Decadent and stuffy. But definitely decadent, org/wiki/User:lifescript). Paul Getty (commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:J_Paul_Getty_crop.jpg).
Load more

Recommended publications
  • The Fashion Runway Through a Critical Race Theory Lens
    THE FASHION RUNWAY THROUGH A CRITICAL RACE THEORY LENS A thesis submitted to the College of the Arts of Kent State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts by Sophia Adodo March, 2016 Thesis written by Sophia Adodo B.A., Texas Woman’s University, 2011 M.A., Kent State University, 2016 Approved by ___________________________________________________________ Dr. Tameka Ellington, Thesis Supervisor ___________________________________________________________ Dr. Kim Hahn, Thesis Supervisor ___________________________________________________________ Dr. Amoaba Gooden, Committee Member ___________________________________________________________ Dr. Catherine Amoroso Leslie, Graduate Studies Coordinator, The Fashion School ___________________________________________________________ Dr. Linda Hoeptner Poling, Graduate Studies Coordinator, The School of Art ___________________________________________________________ Mr. J.R. Campbell, Director, The Fashion School ___________________________________________________________ Dr. Christine Havice, Director, The School of Art ___________________________________________________________ Dr. John Crawford-Spinelli, Dean, College of the Arts TABLE OF CONTENTS Page LIST OF FIGURES ....................................................................................................................... iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................................................................................................... iii CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Kansai-Yamamoto Paper
    Alexandria Lewis-Hawthorne Kansai Yamamoto is a Japanese designer, born on February 8, 1944 in Yokohama, Japan. Kansai studied both civil engineering and english at Nippon University. He then completed his studies at Bunka Fashion College and pursued a career in design. Kansai opened his own boutique in Tokyo in 1968. In 1971, he started his own company, Yamamoto Kansai Company Ltd, with his two partners ( Journal Runway Archive, 2018). Kansai set the foundation for Japanese fashion going mainstream in western fashion. Kansai was the first Japanese designer to move to Europe, a decade before Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto started showing their collections in Paris. He was at the forefront of contemporary Japanese fashion during the 1970s and 1980s. His saturated patterns and exaggerated silhouettes were influenced by the colorful art of the Momoyama period of Japanese art, 1573-1615 along with vibrant costumes of Kabuki theatre and classic manga illustrations, some of which could be seen in prints and mask motifs during Louis Vuitton’s 2018 Cruise Collection. Kansai is known for his avant-gardist designs which reference Japanese art and theatre. He is also credited with renewing interest in the traditional Kimono. David Bowie reached out to Kansai about making costumes for him after seeing one of his looks featured on the cover of Harper’s and Queen. Kansai was then commissioned by David Bowie to design the costumes for his Ziggy Stardust tour. He was the first designer to create a Bowie stage costume. The costumes consisted of widely cut and printed Kimono, extravagant silhouettes and suits made out of synthetic shiney materials.
    [Show full text]
  • Heritage Days 15 & 16 Sept
    HERITAGE DAYS 15 & 16 SEPT. 2018 HERITAGE IS US! The book market! Halles Saint-Géry will be the venue for a book market organised by the Department of Monuments and Sites of Brussels-Capital Region. On 15 and 16 September, from 10h00 to 19h00, you’ll be able to stock up your library and take advantage of some special “Heritage Days” promotions on many titles! Info Featured pictograms DISCOVER Organisation of Heritage Days in Brussels-Capital Region: Regional Public Service of Brussels/Brussels Urbanism and Heritage Opening hours and dates Department of Monuments and Sites a THE HERITAGE OF BRUSSELS CCN – Rue du Progrès/Vooruitgangsstraat 80 – 1035 Brussels c Place of activity Telephone helpline open on 15 and 16 September from 10h00 to 17h00: Launched in 2011, Bruxelles Patrimoines or starting point 02/204.17.69 – Fax: 02/204.15.22 – www.heritagedays.brussels [email protected] – #jdpomd – Bruxelles Patrimoines – Erfgoed Brussel magazine is aimed at all heritage fans, M Metro lines and stops The times given for buildings are opening and closing times. The organisers whether or not from Brussels, and reserve the right to close doors earlier in case of large crowds in order to finish at the planned time. Specific measures may be taken by those in charge of the sites. T Trams endeavours to showcase the various Smoking is prohibited during tours and the managers of certain sites may also prohibit the taking of photographs. To facilitate entry, you are asked to not B Busses aspects of the monuments and sites in bring rucksacks or large bags.
    [Show full text]
  • DUR 07/08/2013 : CUERPO E : 1 : Página 1
    E MIÉRCOLES 7 DE AGOSTO DE 2013 [email protected] ■ TOP 10 La belleza de las mujeres asiáticas ha impactado el mundo de la moda y, según la tendencia observada, pronto podrían inundar las pasarelas más cotizadas del orbe: Liu Wen, Mo Wandan, Sui He, Wang Xiao, y Shiu Pei entre otras. AGENCIAS años una ola de asiáticas ha protagoni- Durango zado algunos de los más selectos fashion shows. Y para recorrer brevemente la Hasta hace unos años cristalización de esta tendencia, basta era difícil encontrar mu- con recordar que en enero del año pasa- jeres asiáticas que figura- do Givenchy presentó su colección Hau- ran entre las más cotizadas te Couture para la temporada primave- top models del planeta. Sin em- ra/verano 2011 utilizando exclusivamen- AGENCIAS bargo, parece que el boom finan- te modelos de Asia. Y solo seis meses ciero, artístico y cultural que se ha después la revista V,dedicó un número detonado en esta región no ex- a elogiar al nuevo escuadrón de bellezas Shiu Pei cluye al mundo del fashion. Y lo asiáticas. A los 17 años esta modelo, más interesante es que la belle- “Hace cinco años estarías presiona- también china, firmó contrato Sui He za oriental ya no está solo re- do por encontrar un show, o una tempo- con la agencia neoyorquina Next Nacida en Wenzhou, China, Sui presentada por japonesas, sino rada completa, que utilizara al menos Management, y un par de años He fue la segunda oriental en que ahora podemos encontrar una chica de Asia. Ahora sería dificil después ya había desfilado en ingresar a las cotizadas filas de entre las páginas de prestigia- encontrar un solo show que no incluya las pasarelas de Carolina Victoria Secret —después de das revistas hermosas chicas a alguna, e incluso estamos, tú sabes, pe- Herrera, Chloe, Louis Vuitton, Liu Wen.
    [Show full text]
  • WHY ARE YOU CREATIVE? Teilnehmerinnen Und Teilnehmer
    Leipziger Straße 16 Telefon +49 (0)30 202 94 0 D-10117 Berlin Telefax +49 (0)30 202 94 111 E-Mail [email protected] www.museumsstiftung.de WHY ARE YOU CREATIVE? Teilnehmerinnen und Teilnehmer ARTISTS ACTORS Marina Abramovic – Amsterdam 2012 Johnny Depp – Berlin 1994 Christo & Jeanne-Claude – Berlin 2001 Mel Gibson – Los Angeles 2000 Damien Hirst – Berlin 1994 Dennis Hopper – Marrakesh 1995 David Hockney – Bonn 1999 Sean Penn – San Francisco 1999 Jeff Koons – Berlin 2000 Gérard Depardieu – Berlin 2012 Jonathan Meese – Berlin 2007 Ben Kingsley – London 1995 Georg Baselitz – Derneburg 2000 Till Schweiger – Los Angeles 2000 Mordillo – Frankfurt 1999 Sir Ian McKellen – Los Angeles 1995 Yoko Ono – Venice 2002 Forest Whittaker - Los Angeles 2002 Tracey Emin – London 1999 Armin Mueller-Stahl – Los Angeles 1998 Eva & Adele – Berlin 2001 Sir Peter Ustinov – London 1999 Tom Sachs – New York 2000 Gary Oldman – Los Angeles 2001 Kenny Scharf – Los Angeles 1999 Karl-Heinz Böhm - Frankfurt 1997 Douglas Gordon – Frankfurt 2012 Vadim Glowna – Berlin 1998 Okwui Enwezor - New York 2002 Anthony Quinn – New York 1995 Joe Coleman – New York 2003 Otto Sander - Berlin 1997 Mariscal - Barcelona 1999 Bruno Ganz – Berlin 2002 Olu Oguibe – London 2000 Bill Murray – Los Angeles 2004 Klaus Staeck – Frankfurt 1995 Michael Madsen – Los Angeles 2010 Roland Topor - Hamburg 1994 John Hurt – London 2013 George Lois – New York 1995 Stephen Dorff – Istanbul 2013 Ana Zarubica – Prague 2009 Michael Douglas - Berlin 2013 Sebastian Horsley – London 2008 Willem Dafoe – New York
    [Show full text]
  • Symmetry Josef Hoffmann Vases from 1922–1923 in Art Deco Style
    CLASSIC SYMMETRY JOSEF HOFFMANN VASES FROM 1922–1923 IN ART DECO STYLE We present a design by Josef Hoffmann from the turn of the year 1923, exceptional in its architectural rendition, proportions, and manual cut. This timeless piece commemorates the 150th anniversary of the renowned designer and architect, whose creations mark the high points of glass design of the 20th century. This edition is limited to a symbolic 150 pieces. SYMMETRY OF CUT, DESIGN AND PURITY OF CRYSTAL The 40-centimetre tall hand-cut vase is the embodiment of Moser DNA, with perfection in the overall cut and precision in the individual cuts. It may not be obvious at first glance, but this piece features one of the most complex designs that our glassmakers have ever created. Josef Hoffmann AUTHOR Austrian architect and designer Josef Hoffmann (1870–1956) was one of the founders of Viennese Art Nouveau. One of his most famous architectural achievements is the Stoclet Palace in Brussels, widely regarded as a ground- breaking example of modern architecture. In 1903, he co-founded the Wiener Werkstätte – a Viennese avant-garde art association. He also employed his creativity in household glassware, creating mainstay collections for the Wiener Werkstätte and the Viennese company Lobmeyr. At the time, the supplier and implementer of Hoffmann's unique designs for both of these organisations was none other than Moser glassworks. Hoffmann’s original vases are displayed in the Glass Museum in Passau, Germany. TECHNOLOGY AHEAD OF ITS TIME Realization at the glassworks demands absolute precision and focus from the glassmakers, not only during the blowing of the basic shape, but also when the individual parts are joined together while hot (still on the blowpipe).
    [Show full text]
  • Abstract Styles in the Vienna Workshop: a Formalist Analysis of Josef Hoffman's
    Abstract Styles in the : Vienna Workshop A Formalist Analysis of Josef Hoffman’s Two Designs Asli Arpak Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA, USA [email protected] Abstract A shape grammar formalism is elaborated for the Vienna Workshop (Wiener Werkstaette) designer Josef Hoffmann’s two designs. Early instances of abstract expressionism are traced in Hoffman’s works by investigating stylistic d parallels through shape rules an computations. The analysis of Hoffmann’s two works are carried out in parallel to Terry Knight’s analysis of De Stijl artists Georges Vantongerloo and Fritz Glarner paintings with the normal form grammars. Keywords: Josef Hoffmann; Wiener Werkstaette; shape grammars; style. abstraction; . Introduction In the end of the nineteenth century, many significant Kabaret Fledermaus and ectural the Archit philosophical and artistic movements flourished in Europe that Detailing of Ceramics were fuelled by newly developing universal ideals, changing Kabaret Fledermaus (the Fledermaus Cabaret) was a theatre that political scenes, and ant const scientific and industrial opened in 1907 in the lively Vienna city and it was envisioned to advancements. Subsequent to the French Art Nouveau, be a meeting point for the Vienna avant-­‐garde and the impressionism, and the English Arts and Crafts Movement, a large 197 intelligentsia. The cabaret could ee house thr hundred guests and group of Austrian artists and designers started the Vienna its aim was to restore the cabaret culture with an artistic twist. In Workshop (Wiener Werkstaette) in 1903 nerian with the Wag ideal addition to restaging classical plays with new décor and costumes, Gesamtkunstwerk (total artwork). the Vienna Workshop artists were also producing novel Various great Austrian architects, artists, and designers were performances.
    [Show full text]
  • Preview JANUARY SPORTS LINE-UP JANUARY SPORTS YEAR in CHAMPAGNE BARS TOAST to 2017 to TOAST
    JAN 2017 JAN ® TOAST TO 2017 CHAMPAGNE BARS CHAMPAGNE YEAR IN JANUARY SPORTSJANUARY LINE-UP Preview NYC Monthly JAN2017 NYCMONTHLY.COM VOL. 7 NO.1 PATRAVI TRAVELTEC DLC AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT · THREE TIME ZONES CHRONOGRAPH · DIAMOND-LIKE CARBON COATING 1118 Kings Highway · Brooklyn · NY 718.375.1818 CONTENTS FEATURES MUSEUMS 16 Winter Art 16 Here's To 2017 Stills, Portraits, and a New York Connection A Year in Preview 18 Exhibits Calendars DINING & DRINKS Must-see Exhibits in January 18 Bring the Heat LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Warm Up This Winter with a Spicy Meal 20 Brand New Day 20 Raise a Glass to the New Year Ring in the New Year with Live Music Get Bubbly at a Champagne Bar to Ring in 2017 24 Live Entertainment Calendar SHOPPING Must-see Concerts in January 24 Boots with Fur ATTRACTIONS Pumped Up Kicks for Cold Weather 26 January Attractions Can't Miss Attractions in January BROADWAY 26 Stories In The City SPORTS The Lives of New Yorkers Take Center Stage 26 January Sports Calendar of Can't Miss Sporting Events 4 NYCMONTHLY.COM CONTENTS INTERVIEWS 16 Carla Hall Star of "The View" Brings her Southern Charm & Chow to NYC 18 John Slattery Celebrated Actor Returns to Broadway in an American Classic 20 Alan Menken Hit Hometown Composer Scores Powerful New Musical 24 Judah & The Lion Eclectic Nashville Band Electrifies Major Tri-State Venues IN EVERY ISSUE 16 Top 10 Things ON THE COVER: To Do in January WINTER WONDERLAND photo by Cory Schloss Images 18 Broadway Listings It's January and New Yorkers are once again finding themselves pulling out their parkas as the anniversary of last year's record- Musicals, Plays breaking Winter Storm Jonas approaches.
    [Show full text]
  • Brussels 1 Brussels
    Brussels 1 Brussels Brussels • Bruxelles • Brussel — Region of Belgium — • Brussels-Capital Region • Région de Bruxelles-Capitale • Brussels Hoofdstedelijk Gewest A collage with several views of Brussels, Top: View of the Northern Quarter business district, 2nd left: Floral carpet event in the Grand Place, 2nd right: Brussels City Hall and Mont des Arts area, 3rd: Cinquantenaire Park, 4th left: Manneken Pis, 4th middle: St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathedral, 4th right: Congress Column, Bottom: Royal Palace of Brussels Flag Emblem [1] [2][3] Nickname(s): Capital of Europe Comic city Brussels 2 Location of Brussels(red) – in the European Union(brown & light brown) – in Belgium(brown) Coordinates: 50°51′0″N 4°21′0″E Country Belgium Settled c. 580 Founded 979 Region 18 June 1989 Municipalities Government • Minister-President Charles Picqué (2004–) • Governor Jean Clément (acting) (2010–) • Parl. President Eric Tomas Area • Region 161.38 km2 (62.2 sq mi) Elevation 13 m (43 ft) [4] Population (1 January 2011) • Region 1,119,088 • Density 7,025/km2 (16,857/sq mi) • Metro 1,830,000 Time zone CET (UTC+1) • Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) ISO 3166 BE-BRU [5] Website www.brussels.irisnet.be Brussels (French: Bruxelles, [bʁysɛl] ( listen); Dutch: Brussel, Dutch pronunciation: [ˈbrʏsəɫ] ( listen)), officially the Brussels Region or Brussels-Capital Region[6][7] (French: Région de Bruxelles-Capitale, [ʁe'ʒjɔ̃ də bʁy'sɛlkapi'tal] ( listen), Dutch: Brussels Hoofdstedelijk Gewest, Dutch pronunciation: [ˈbrʏsəɫs ɦoːft'steːdələk xəʋɛst] ( listen)), is the capital
    [Show full text]
  • YOHJI YAMAMOTO Y-3 Y's Known for His Philosophical Approach To
    54 THE EYE YOHJI YAMAMOTO Known for his philosophical approach to YOHJI YAMAMOTO design, Yohji Yamamoto is one of fashion’s Y-3 most pioneering and idiosyncratic thinkers, Y’S often fnding lyrical parallels between cloth- ing and the curiosity of the human condition. “Just as man lives and grows old, so too does fabric live and age,” he theorizes in his poetic 2010 autobiography, My Dear Bomb. “When fabric is left to age for a year or two, it natu- rally contracts, and at this point, it reveals its charm,”. Alongside contemporaries including Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Keno Takada, Yamamoto was one of the leading proponents of the avant-garde design wave that emerged from Japan in the 1970s and ’80s. Artfully mixing high concept and traditional crafts- manship, they transformed global fashion with radical new ideas on gender, streetwear and contemporary garment construction. If it’s possible to defne the Yamamoto signature, it is perhaps his uncanny desire to design clothing that feels aged, preworn → and imperfect. “I think perfection is ugly,” Yamamoto says he can’t imagine himself retired. he stated in his 2002 publication Talking to “I also think it’s hard to Myself. “Somewhere in the things humans imagine my brand without make, I want to see scars, failure, disorder, me,” he told i-D. “I think Yohji Yamamoto will die distortion.” As such, his unstructured, with Yohji Yamamoto.” “anti-ft” silhouettes with their asymmetric 56 THE EYE 57 FASHION lines, distressed fnishes and raw seams historical design references and a decidedly create a masterful sense of dishevelment.
    [Show full text]
  • Katherine Gleason
    Katherine Gleason 1 2 At first glance, the woman’s image, complete with white wimple, looks like a painting by a Dutch old master. With more attention, the image proves to be a photograph—a photograph of a woman with a plastic shopping bag on her head. This is the invitation to Alexander McQueen’s latest show. In the center of the square stage at the Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy hulks a huge pile of refuse: tires, old computer keyboards, burned-out televisions, an uncoiling hose, car parts, antlers, broken chairs. Cracked mirror tiles make up the surface of the catwalk, as if all this debris has crash-landed. he trash onstage is not the only thing that’s The models wear grotesque makeup—huge painted-on crashed. Financial markets worldwide have lips—and towering shoes. Many of them walk with their plummeted, and economic conditions are grim. hands on their hips and strike poses using stylized gestures TSo, what better time to look back and engage in some that evoke vintage glamour. The Philip Treacy headgear, recycling? This collection references and subverts vintage which includes umbrellas and soda cans, lends an extra Dior, Givenchy, and the entire haute couture tradition. dose of surrealism. The music starts—a roar—the lights McQueen also refers to earlier collections of his own, and come up, and the first model steps out onto the shiny props from his earlier shows adorn the trash heap. cracked-glass catwalk. 3 Covered in hounds-tooth plaid, Alla Kostromichova makes the first run. Not only is her coat patterned, but also her boots, leggings, and sunglasses.
    [Show full text]
  • Redefining the High Art of Couture: Fashion Illustration Goes Modern
    Redefining the High Art of Couture: Fashion Illustration Goes Modern exhibition curated by Decue Wu Tuesday, April 30, 2013 Fashion illustration has a long history and has played a critical role in the fashion industry. In the past, fashion illustrations were the main avenue for presenting the glamorous fashion concepts of designers. The illustrators added their own elements into their illustrations while showing the designerʼs vision. Meanwhile, fashion illustrators also documented the fashion show as editorial illustrations for magazines, newspapers and other publications. Yves Saint Laurent drawing designs. 1957 Tuesday, April 30, 2013 Cover illustration by Benito, 1921, for Vogue, February 15, 1921. Cover illustration by Benito, 1929, for Vogue, August 1929. Tuesday, April 30, 2013 Exhibition Précis: Redefining the High Art of Couture: Fashion Illustration Goes Modern is an exhibition that asserts that fashion illustration is a fine art. The focus is on the fashion illustrations of notable contemporary fashion illustrators, including David Downton (1959), Gladys Perint Palmer, Tanya Ling (1966), Francois Berthoud (1961), Mats Gustafson (1951), Zoë Taylor (1982), Jean-Philippe Delhomme (1959) and Howard Tangye (1979). Approximately two to four illustrations showcase the remarkable artistic talents of each artist. This exhibition is meaningful because it dispels the idea that fashion illustration is merely a functional tool for a fashion house— one used either to instruct tailors or to be manipulated as a marketing-and-sales device in fashion magazines or blogs. Instead, these exquisite drawings lift fashion illustration to its rightful place—as a high-art form worthy of acquisition by a museum or a private collector.
    [Show full text]