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DOUG MCKINLAY | LONELY PLANET IMAGES © IMAGES PLANET LONELY | MCKINLAY DOUG 00-front_matter_str1.indd 2 2/12/2011 1:59:43 PM 2/12/2011 1:59:46 PM 00-front_matter_str1.indd 3 DOUG MCKINLAY | LONELY PLANET IMAGES © KatiKa Roll India 82 KeleweleK Ghana 84 KhaoK Soi Thailand 86 IntroductionInntrt oducuctitiono 066 Knish USA 88 Kuaytiaw Thailand 90 * Savoury * Kushari Egypt 92 Lángos Hungary 94 AcarajéAcarajé BBrazilraraziil 112 Maine Lobster Roll USA 96 Arancino ItalyIttala y 114 Mangue Verte Senegal 98 Balık Ekmek Turkey 16 Man'oushe Lebanon 1000 Bamboo Rice Taiwan 18 Masala Dosa India 1022 Banh Mi Vietnam 20 Meat Pie Australia 1044 Baozi China 22 Mohinga Myanmar (Burma) 1066 Bhelpuri India 24 Murtabak Malaysia & Singapore 1088 Bo Bia Vietnam 26 Otak-Otak 1100 Breakfast Burrito USA 28 Singapore, Malaysia & Indonesia Brik Tunisia 30 Oyster Cake Hong Kong 11212 Bsarra Morocco 32 Pane, Panelle e Crocchè Italy 11414 Bún Cha Vietnam 34 Pastizzi Malta 11616 Burek Bosnia & Hercegovina 36 Peso Pizza Cuba 11818 Cevapcici Croatia 38 Phat Kaphrao Thailand 12020 Ceviche de Corvina Peru 40 Phat Thai Thailand 1212222 Chivito al Pan Uruguay 42 Pho Vietnam 12112424 © ISTOCKPHOTO | HADYNIAK BARTOSZ Chole Batura India 44 Pierogi Poland 12612126 Choripán Argentina 46 Pizza al Taglio Italy 1281282 Cicchetti Italy 48 Poisson Cru French Polynesia 1313030 Cocktel de Camarón Mexico 50 Poutine Canada 13213132 Conch Bahamas 52 Pretzel USA 13113434 Cornish Pasty England 54 Pupusa El Salvador 13613136 Currywurst Germany 56 Red Red Ghana 138 Elote Mexico 58 Roasted Chestnuts Europe 140 Felafel Israel 60 Sabih Israel 142 Fuul Mudammas Egypt 62 Salteña Bolivia 144 Gordita Mexico 64 Samosa India 146 Gözleme Turkey 66 Samsa Central Asia 148 Gyros Greece 68 Sarawak Laksa Malaysia 150 Hainanese Chicken Rice 70 Sfi ha Lebanon 152 Malaysia & Singapore Som Tam Thailand 154 Hollandse Nieuwe Haring 72 Spring Roll China 156 The Netherlands Stinky Tofu Taiwan 158 Hopper Sri Lanka 74 Taco Mexico 160 Hot Dog USA Takoyaki Japan 162 Jerked Pork 78 Tamale Mexico 164 Jamaica & Carribbean Islands 76 Walkie-Talkies South Africa 1666 Juane Peru 80 Yangrou Chuan China 1688 Zapiekanka Poland 1700 SIMON WATSON | GETTY © GETTY | WATSON SIMON XXXXXXXXXXXXXX | XXXXXXXXX | XXXXXXXXXXXXXX 00-front_matter_str1.indd 4 X 2/12/2011 1:59:48 PM * Sweet * AçaiAç na Tigela Brazil 174 BaklavaBa Turkey 176 BeaverTailsBe Pastry Canada 178 BlinyB Russia 180 ChimneyCh Cake Hungary 182 ChurroC Spain 184 CrepeC France 186 DaulatD ki Chaat India 188 DouhuaD 190 CChina, Singapore & Taiwan Egg Waffl e Hong Kong 192 Gelato Italy 194 Hotteok South Korea 196 Ice Kacang Malaysia 198 Jalebi India 200 Martabak Manis Indonesia 20220202 Masala Chai India 20220404 Mithaa Paan Indiaa 20620606 Pastel de Belémelém PortugalPoro tuugaal 2082008 Sfenj MoroccoMororocccoco 21221010 Sopaipillaaaipilla ChileChihilee 2122112 Glossaryoosssas ryy 21421214 Authorsuththoro s 2222222 Indexndex 2202220 * Contents * 00-front_matter_str1.indd 5 2/12/2011 2:00:10 PM with a technique well honed by experience. I was mesmerised. Dried shrimp and peanuts were dropped in. Pound, pound, mix, mix, mix. Then palm sugar and tomatoes. Pound, pound, mix, mix. And lime juice and fi sh sauce. Pound, pound, mix. Then a mass of green papaya, cut * Introduction * into the thinnest of strands. One fi nal mix, and Byy TomTomo ParkerPararkeker BowlesBBo it was dumped onto a polystyrene tray and handed over. I took a bite. The fi rst taste was sharp and YoYYouou neneverevever fofforgetorgrgetet ttheheh fi rrststs time.ti Mine took fresh, then salty, from the chewy dried shrimp. plpplace,aca e,, nnearlyeae rlr y 2020 yyearseaearsrs bback,acack on an insalubrious Sweetness came next, underscoring and babbackstreetckcksttrereete iinn BaBangkok’sangngkokok’k’s PPatpong. The smoothing every discordant note. Tomatoes exeexperiencexpep ririenncece wwasasas bbrief,ririefef, anaandnd fairly inglorious, but jostled with peanuts and crisp green beans as reremainsemam inns sesearedeara eded iinn mym ssoulo forever. One taste they swirled around my mouth. An involuntary wawwasas alaallll itt ttook.oook.k TTheheh sstalltaallll was little more than a smile spread across my face. This was food puppushcartshcac rtr wwithitth a brbbrightrigightht yellow awning. A tattered like I’d never tasted before, big, ballsy and adaadvertvev rtr ffororo CCarnationararnaatitiono mmilk hung precariously beautifully balanced, the sort of thing to restore frffromromom ttheheh ssideidide whwwhilehili e the owner, a small woman one’s faith in life, love, the universe…then the inn a Coca-ColaCocca-a CoC l cap, gossiped incessantly with chillies hit. Hard. So hard that my eyes fl ooded a frffriendrieiendnd perched on a wobbly plastic stool. with tears, my tongue seemed to swell and I WWorkspace was severely limited, as a huge lost the power of speech. Even thinking hurt. wooden pestle and mortar dominated the It took a full fi ve minutes for the pain to diddisplay.is Neatly arranged around it, like small subside, replaced by that heady endorphin sassatellitesat circling the sun, were metal bowls warmth sent in by the body to battle the pain. fi llllled with ingredients of every hue. I looked up. Both ladies were crying. But tears As a street-food virgin, I wasn’t exactly sure of laughter rather than agony. ‘You like?’ asked wwhere to start. A friend more experienced in the one, between fi ts of hysterics. ‘Yes,’ I managed wways of the road had told me about som tam. toto mmutter.uttter.r. ‘HellH yyes.’ ‘J‘JustJ look for the stall with the fat, shiny green frffruit.r And someone pounding the hell out of ttheir mortar.’ So I giggled nervously and pointed aat the plump papaya. The lady stopped her chat aand smiled back. ‘You want farang hot? Or Thai hot?’ she asked as she threw a handful of green beans into the dark wooden depths. ‘Umm, Thai hot,’ I muttered, puffi ng out my chest. RAY LASKOWITZ | LONELY PLANET IMAGES © IMAGES PLANET LONELY | LASKOWITZ RAY ‘OK,’ she answered, adding what seemed like a suicidal amount of scud chillies, along with © IMAGES PLANET LONELY | BUSH AUSTIN a few cloves of garlic. She pounded and mixed RICHARD I'ANSON | LONELY PLANET IMAGES PLANET LONELY | I'ANSON RICHARD 00-front_matter_str1.indd 6 2/12/2011 2:00:38 PM RICHARD I'ANSON | LONELY PLANET IMAGES PLANET LONELY | RICHARD I'ANSON THEH WORWOW LD'S'SS BESEST STREETT FOOFO D | 07 00-front_matter_str1.indd 7 2/12/2011 2:01:16 PM tthe right side of molten. Baozi (Chinese steamed buns) in Shanghai, oyster cakes in Bangkok and panelle (chickpea-fl our fritters), all soft, salty TIM BARKER | LONELY PLANET IMAGES © IMAGES PLANET LONELY | TIM BARKER crunch, sold on a Palermo street corner. I could go on and on and on. Street food is the most democratic grub in the world, a place where politician eats alongside peasant, and fl avours are unashamedly bold. I like the fact that countries with a strong street-food culture – Mexico, Thailand, China, Malaysia and Vietnam, to name Since then,h streettrereett ffoodooood hashaas becomebeecocomeme mymy but a few – take it very seriously indeed. Everyone obsession. Some travel to drink in the culture, has their own view as to what makes the fi nest others to lap up the sun. I travel to eat, preferably tamales, samosas, stinky tofu, laksa or spring rolls. on the street. Because this is where you’ll fi nd That’s not to say that everything cooked up on the real soul of a cuisine, somewhere among the sidewalk is edible gold. Far from it. There’s the taco carts and noodle stalls and baskets of a lot of tired, dirty, grease-soaked muck about. herbs. Michelin stars hold little interest, with the However, armed with this tome, you’ll march rarest of exceptions. And the tourist restaurants, straight past the second-rate pretenders. Local with their bland, dreary, ‘safe’ menus fi ll me with recommendations are worth their weight in spice, gloom. No, my fi rst stop is always the street. and always look for queues. High turnover not The scent of wood fi res and burning fat, the only means they must be getting something right, glare of artifi cial lights, the natural hubbub of but that the food’s cooked fresh too, as there isn’t regalement, and proper good cheer. No foams, or time for it to sit around. Lack of native language smears or strangely shaped plates. No egos, or is unimportant. Communication of pleasure anandnd supercilious sommeliers or dining rooms with all delight is universal. A smile, or vigorous rrubbingububbib ngng the atmosphere of a morgue. Just food to make of the gut. You get to see far moree ofo anan alienalaliei n the taste buds sing. culture from behind glowingg chccharcoalhararcocoala oorr a wowwokk Some of the fi nest things to ever have passed than through any numberer off gguidebooks.uiidedebookoks.s FFindinnd a my lips have been eaten standing up, or sitting at busy stall, watch what thehe llocalsocalals araarere oroorderingded rir ngg aandndd the most rickety of roadside tables, surrounded when you arrive at the ffront,ror ntn , justjuj stst smilesmimilele andandnd point.poio ntnt. by diesel fumes, cigarette smoke and noise. The only phrase you reallyeala lyy nneedeeed iss ‘‘thankthhana k yoyou’.ou’u. There was that noodle soup in Luang Prabang, And don’t be afraid. MMostosost stsstreet-foodreeetet-ffooood sessellersellllerers araaree the buff alo broth looking like melted amber, with delighted when a foreignerreie gngnere aappreciatesppprereciciatateses ttheirheheirr wwork.orork.k a depth I can only dream of re-creating. Or those This is a book dedicatedcatatedd ttoo sossomememe ooff thtthee grggreatestreae tetest tacos al pastor from the hole in the wall in Mexico eating in the world.d.. CClasplalaspp iitt toto yyourouo r chchesthesest anaandnd hihitit City – thin shavings of pork doner kebab, mixed the streets.