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DOUG MCKINLAY | LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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IntroductionIn

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AcarajéAcaraj Arancino Balık Ekmek Bamboo Banh Mi trt Bhelpuri Bo Bia Bsarra Bún Cha Burek od Cevapcici Ceviche de Corvina al Pan Chole Batura Choripán Cicchetti Cocktel de Camarón * Conch Cornish Elote Felafel Fuul Mudammas ucu Gözleme Gyros Malaysia & Singapore é Hollandse Nieuwe Haring The Netherlands c Hopper Tunisia Savoury Jerked & Carribbean Islands tit Juane BrazilB

B i

Bosnia & Hercegovina Morocco ono

Vietnam

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Mexico ItalyIt Bahamas a t

Vietnam India

ala zi 06

Greece Croatia

Italy i

Argentina y l

Mexico

Peru

Turkey Sri Lanka Taiwan Germany

USA

India

Uruguay

England

USA

Egypt

Mexico

06

6 *

112 114 20 16 18 22 24 26

30 28

32 34 36 40 38

42 44 46 48 50 KatiKa Roll 52 54 KeleweleK 56 KhaoK Soi 60 58 Kuaytiaw 62 Kushari 64 Lángos 66 Maine 68 Mangue Verte Man'oushe 70 Masala Meat 72 74 Otak-Otak Singapore, Malaysia & 78 Oyster 80 76 Pane, Panelle e Crocchè Pastizzi Peso Phat Kaphrao Phat Thai

Pho Poisson Cru Pupusa Red Red Roasted Chestnuts USA Sabih Salteña Sarawak Sfi Som Tam Stinky Tofu Hungary Egypt India Walkie-Talkies Vietnam Yangrou Chuan ha

Ghana

Thailand

Malta (Burma)

Israel

Lebanon Malaysia & Singapore USA Mexico Lebanon

Central Asia

Bolivia Thailand

India

Cuba India Hong Kong Ghana Mexico Senegal

Thailand

Japan

French Polynesia

Thailand

Taiwan

Italy China

USA

Poland

Malaysia

South Africa

128 China

Italy

82

84 86 88 100 90

92 104 102 94 106 96 108 98

110

112 114 0 120 116 118 2 12212 4 121124 1 6 126121 1 8 1 1 13130 2 0 1 2 132131 2 131134 2 4 136131 2 282 6 140 138 3 8 0 142 3 144 3 2 146 3 4 148 6 150 0 152 154 2 4 156 6 160 158

162 164 166 168

170

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SIMON WATSON | GETTY © GETTY | WATSON SIMON XXXXXXXXXXXXXX | XXXXXXXXX | XXXXXXXXXXXXXX 2/12/2011 1:59:48 PM * Sweet * 174 AçaiAç na Tigela 176 Turkey BaklavaBa 178 Canada BeaverTailsBe 180 BBliny Russia 182 Hungary ChimneyCh Cake 184 ChurroC 186 CrepeC 188 India DaulatD ki 190 DouhuaD China,C Singapore & Taiwan 192 e Hong Kong Egg Waffl 194 Italy Gelato 196 South Hotteok 198 Malaysia Ice Kacang 200 India 20220202 Indonesia Martabak Manis 20420204 India Masala Chai 20606 Indiaa 2206 Mithaa Paan 2020808 Belémelém PPortugaloro tuugaal de Belém 21221010 ororocccoco MMorocco 2121212 Sopaipillaaaipilla CChilehihilee

14 Glossaryoosssas ryy 214212 22222 Authorsuththoro s 22 2202220 Indexndex

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Contents

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00-front_matter_str1.indd 5 2/12/2011 2:00:10 PM with a technique well honed by experience. I was mesmerised. Dried shrimp and peanuts were dropped in. Pound, pound, mix, mix, mix. Then palm and tomatoes. Pound, pound, sh sauce. Pound, mix, mix. And lime juice and fi pound, mix. Then a mass of green nalpapaya, mix, andcut * into the thinnest of strands. One fi * Introduction it was dumped onto a polystyrene tray and Pararkeker BBo Byy TTomomo PParker Bowles handed over. rst taste was sharp and I took a bite. The fi fresh, then salty, from the chewy dried shrimp. t theh fi rstrsts time.ti Mine took Sweetness came next, underscoring and YouYoYou neneverevever fofforgetorgrgete the fi yeaearsrs bacack smoothing every discordant note. Tomatoes place,plp aca e,, nnearlyeae rlr y 2020 years back, on an insalubrious ngngkokok’k’s P jostled with peanuts and crisp green beans as backstreetbab ckcksttrereete iinn BaBangkok’sa Patpong. The bririefef, anand they swirled around my mouth. An involuntary experienceexexpep ririenncece wwasasas brief, and fairly inglorious, but in mym so smile spread across my face. This was food remainsreemam inns sesearedeara eded iin my soul forever. One taste heh staallll like I’d never tasted before, big, ballsy and waswawas alaallll itt ttook.oook.k TThe stall was little more than a brbrigightht beautifully balanced, the sort of thing to restore pushcartpup shcac rtr wwithitth a bright yellow awning. A tattered titiono m one’s faith in life, love, the universe…then the advertada vev rtr ffororo CCarnationararnaa milk hung precariously fl ooded ili e chillies hit. Hard. So hard that my eyes fromfrfromom ttheheh ssideidide whwwhileh the owner, a small woman essantly with with tears, my tongue seemed to swell and I inn a -ColaCocca-a CoC l cap, gossiped inc lost the power of speech. Even thinking hurt. a friendfrfrieiendnd perched on a wobbly plastic stool. It took a full fi ve minutes for the pain to WorkspaceW was severely limited, as a huge subside, replaced by that heady endorphin wooden pestle and mortar dominated the warmth sent in by the body to battle the pain. display.didis Neatly arranged around it, like small I looked up. Both ladies were crying. But tears satellitessasat circling the sun, were metal bowls of laughter rather than agony. ‘You like?’ asked fi lledlll with ingredients of every hue. ts of hysterics. ‘Yes,’ I managed As a street-food virgin, I wasn’t exactly sure one, between fi toto mmutter.uttter.r. ‘HellH yyes.’ wherew to start. A friend more experienced in .the waysw of the road had told me about som tam ‘Just‘JJ look for the stall with the fat, shiny green fruit.frfr And someone pounding the hell out of theirt mortar.’ So I giggled nervously and pointed ata the plump papaya. The lady stopped her chat anda smiled back. ‘You want farang hot? Or Thai hot?’ she asked as she threw a handful of green beans into the dark wooden depths. ‘Umm, ffi ng out my chest. Thai hot,’ I muttered, pu

RAY LASKOWITZ | LONELY PLANET IMAGES © ‘OK,’ she answered, adding what seemed like AUSTIN BUSH | LONELY PLANET IMAGES © a suicidal amount of scud chillies, along with

a few cloves of . She pounded and mixed RICHARDI'ANSON |LONELY PLANET IMAGES

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obsession. Some travel to drink in the culture, others to lap up the sun. I travel to eat, preferably on the street. Because this is where you’ll fi the real soul of a cuisine, somewhere among the taco carts and stalls and baskets of . Michelin stars hold little interest, with the rarest of exceptions. And the tourist restaurants, with their bland, dreary, ‘safe’ menus gloom. No, my fi Since then, has become my The scent of wood fi glare of artifi regalement, and proper good cheer. No foams, or smears or strangely shaped plates. No egos, or supercilious sommeliers or dining rooms with all the atmosphere of a morgue. Just food to make the taste buds sing.

my lips have been eaten standing up, or sitting at the most rickety of roadside tables, surrounded by diesel fumes, cigarette smoke and noise. There was that noodle in , the buff a depth I can only dream of re-creating. Or those City – thin shavings of pork doner , mixed with hot sauce, and fresh , and lime. Then 08 Some of the fi wrapped in a steaming taco. octopus-spiked batter), eaten in the freezing Tokyo night, their outsides crisp, their innards just

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tthe right side of molten. Baozi (Chinese steamed buns) in Shanghai, oyster in Bangkok and panelle (-fl crunch, sold on a Palermo street corner. I could go on and on and on. Street food is the most democratic grub in the world, a place where politician eats alongside peasant, and fl unashamedly bold. I like the fact that countries with a strong street-food culture – Mexico, Thailand, China, Malaysia and Vietnam, to name but a few – take it very seriously indeed. Everyone has their own view as to what makes the fi , , stinky tofu, laksa or spring rolls.

the sidewalk is edible gold. Far from it. There’s a lot of tired, dirty, grease-soaked muck about. However, armed with this tome, you’ll march straight past the second-rate pretenders. Local recommendations are worth their weight in spice, and always look for queues. High not only means they must be getting something right, but that the food’s cooked fresh too, as there isn’t time for it to sit around. Lack of native language That’s not to say that everything cooked up on is unimportant. Communication of pleasure and delight is universal. A smile, or vigorous rubbing of the gut. You get to see far more of an alien culture from behind glowing charcoal or a wok than through any number of guidebooks. Find a busy stall, watch what the locals are ordering and when you arrive at the front, just smile and point. The only phrase you really need is ‘thank you’. And don’t be afraid. Most street-food sellers are delighted when a foreigner appreciates their work. This is a book dedicated to some of the greatest eating in the world. Clasp it to your chest and hit the streets. Gastronomic bliss awaits.

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D D Vegetarian FOO FOO

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Utensils

c technique technique c

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involved that may take take may that involved

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parts to make, or lots of of lots or make, to parts

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Note Defi nitions for words in blue in the recipes can be found in the the in found be can recipes the in blue in words for nitions Defi e

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