344 appendix Basic Beanery name(s) origin & CharaCteristiCs soaking & Cooking Adzuki Himalayan native, now grown Soaked, Conventional Stovetop: 40 (aduki, azuki, red Cowpea, throughout Asia. Especially loved in minutes. unSoaked, Conventional Stovetop: red oriental) Japan. Small, nearly round red bean 1¼ hours. Soaked, pressure Cooker: 5–7 with a thread of white along part of minutes. unSoaked, pressure Cooker: the seam. Slightly sweet, starchy. 15–20 minutes. Lower in oligosaccharides. Anasazi New World native (present-day Soak? Yes. Conventional Stovetop: 2–2¹⁄² (Cave bean and new mexiCo junction of Arizona, New Mexico, hours. pressure Cooker: 15–18 minutes appaloosa—though it Colorado, Utah). White speckled with at full pressure; let pressure release isn’t one) burgundy to rust-brown. Slightly gradually. Slow-Cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on sweet, a little mealy. Lower in high, then 6 hours on low. oligosaccharides. Appaloosa New World native. Slightly elongated, Soak? Yes. Conventional Stovetop: 2–2¹⁄² (dapple gray, curved, one end white, the other end hours. pressure Cooker: 15–18 minutes; gray nightfall) mottled with black and brown. Holds let pressure release gradually. Slow- its shape well; slightly herbaceous- Cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on high, then 6–7 piney in flavor, a little mealy. Lower in hours on low. oligosaccharides. Black-eyed pea West African native, now grown and Soak? Optional. Soaked, Conventional (blaCk-eyes, lobia, loved worldwide. An ivory-white Stovetop: 20–30 minutes. unSoaked, Chawali) cowpea with a black “eye” across Conventional Stovetop: 45–55 minutes. the indentation. Distinctive ashy, Soaked, pressure Cooker: 5–7 minutes. mineral-y taste, starchy texture. unSoaked, pressure Cooker: 9–11 minutes. All cooking times are approximate. The older the bean is, the longer it will take to cook. Always taste for tenderness about three-quarters of the way through the shorter suggested time when using a conventional pot or slow-cooker. When using a pressure cooker, stop the cooking at the earlier end of the cooking range, let pressure release gradually, open, and taste. If not tender, reseal the lid and bring it back up to high pressure for the remaining time. 11 Beans BM 6th.indd 344 5/21/12 2:55 PM basic beanery 345 a vailability s ubstitutes u sage Widely available in Mung beans can and often Sweetened and made into a paste, used natural foods markets do serve as a substitute— in many Asian desserts, including moon and Asian groceries. similar taste and cooking cakes and ice cream. Cooked with sticky time—but visually quite rice (Japan). Cooked with butter and sugar different. as a pudding (Somalia). Bean of choice for dahls in North India. Occasionally available in Pinto, pink, tepary, “real” Usually in stews with Southwestern natural foods markets, appaloosa. Though different seasonings (chile, cumin, garlic, onion, specialty foods stores. visually and tastewise, peppers). Sometimes used in baked Online: Purcell’s Mountain navy and black beans work beans in the Southwest (often added: Farm; Rancho Gordo; functionally. ham, bacon, or salt pork). In Southwest, Bob’s Red Mill; Adobe often served at festivals honoring Native Milling of Dove Creek. Americans. Not in most Pinto, pinquito, anasazi, Usually cooked as a stew, with supermarkets. Online: tepary. Though different Southwestern seasonings (see above). Rancho Gordo; Bob’s Red visually and tastewise, Often ham, bacon, or salt pork is added. Mill; Purcell’s Mountain navy and black beans work Also sometimes used in baked beans in Farm. functionally. the Southwest. Widely available in All cowpeas share about the Akkra, a deep-fried fritter (Africa). Buñelo, supermarkets. same cooking time, though a similar fritter (Colombia). Chèotâutráng, each differs slightly in flavor. a sweet pudding (Thailand). Tossed with Lady, crowder, cream, clay, olive oil, vegetables, and lemon (Greece). and pigeon peas, or goat’s As Hoppin’ John and Texas Caviar (U.S.). eye or asparagus beans work In many regional curries (India). Also a in black-eyed pea recipes. traditional side dish for a meal of cod and potatoes (Portugal). Yields forvirtuallyalldriedbeans:1cupdriedbeans,peas,orlentilsequals2¼to2½cupscooked. 346 appendix name(s) origin & CharaCteristiCs soaking & Cooking Black bean New World native. Shiny, true black Soak? Yes. Conventional Stovetop: 1¹⁄²–2 (turtle bean, blaCk uncooked; cooking liquid turns hours. pressure Cooker: 15–18 minutes valentine, frijol negro, smoky-purplish. Creamy texture at full pressure; let pressure release feijão preto) when cooked. Flavor has an unusual, gradually. Slow-Cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on faintly sweet note, reminiscent of high, then 6–7 hours on low. some chocolate. Cannellini New World (Argentina) native, now Soak? Yes. Conventional Stovetop: Cook (white kidney bean) much loved and used in Italy. White, at a full, hard boil for 10 minutes, then slightly elongated. Creamy texture, cook slowly 1¹⁄²–2 hours. pressure pleasingly bland, slightly nutty. Cooker: 11–13 minutes; let pressure release gradually. Slow-Cooker: Boil on stovetop for 10 minutes, then transfer to cooker for 1 hour on high, then 6–7 hours on low. Chickpea Middle East (probably Turkey) Soak? Yes. Conventional Stovetop: 2–3 (garbanzo, CeCe, CeCi, native. Round, pale yellow to light hours. pressure Cooker: 12–15 minutes; Channa; also available as brown, with a ridge on one side. Slow let pressure release gradually. Slow- flour, or besan) to cook, holds its shape well, has a Cooker: 2 hours on high, then 6¹⁄²–7¹⁄² pleasant, nutty flavor and slightly hours on low. mealy texture. Desi dahl Desi dahl is a second variety of (kala Channa or blaCk chickpea—smaller, firmer, darker, ChiCkpea; also available more wrinkled, a staple of Indian as flour, or Kala besan; regular besan Can home cooking; used in channa dahl. substitute) 11 Beans BM 6th.indd 346 5/21/12 2:55 PM basic beanery 347 a vailability s ubstitutes u sage Widely available in For cooking properties, Feijoada (Brazil). MoorsyChristianos supermarkets. interchangeable with most soup (Cuba). In New Mexico, served New World beans, including with every Southwestern plate by cranberry, pinto, navy, and default. Common in chili, especially chili many more. But for flavor and mole; and in soup, often with sherry color, nothing else looks or (U.S.). Excellent in bean-burgers; flavor tastes like black beans. compatible with mushrooms. In some supermarkets. Interchangeable with most Often used in minestrone, pastaefagioli, Online: Purcell’s New World beans, but navy and other Tuscan bean soups. Also Mountain Farm; Rancho and Great Northern are marinated and used as an appetizer Gordo. closest visually. or addition to salad (Italy). The European/Middle The chickpea is sui generis. Base for hummus and falafel, and used Eastern variety is widely It’s one of the slowest- in many soups (Middle East). Used in available. cooking beans (second only countless curries, especially with potato to the soybean) and is shaped and cauliflower, as well as a plain dahl like no other bean, with a (India). The whole cooked beans, in sugar flavor and texture like no syrup, are also eaten as a sweet and used other bean. If you fall in love in a variety of desserts (Philippines). Part with a chickpea recipe but of most three-bean salads, and often want to make it with some a component of bean-burgers (U.S.). other bean, fine; just adjust cooking time according to the bean cooked. You’ll have a good result, it just won’t be chickpea-ish. Desidahl is available at See comments above. Desidahl, curried, is classic Indian home any Indian market. Besan cooking. Flour is an ingredient in batter is available at many for deep-fried vegetables (India). Used natural foods markets, in shortbreadlike cookies (Persia/Iran), Indian groceries, and and in flatbreads (panelle,Sicily;socca, through Bob’s Red Mill. France). 348 appendix name(s) origin & CharaCteristiCs soaking & Cooking Cranberry New World (Colombia) native. Ivory Soak? Yes. Conventional Stovetop: 1¹⁄²–2 (borlotti, tongues of fire, or tan, beautifully mottled with hours. pressure Cooker: 11–13 minutes. dragon’s tongue ) striations of red, burgundy, even Slow-Cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on high, then 6 bright pink. A melting, creamy hours on low. texture; a little nutlike; very pleasing. Fava North Africa native. Shaped like Soak? Yes, for whole favas. No, for split, (broad bean, horse bean, fat, bumpy lima beans, dried favas peeled favas. extra Step for whole beanS: bell bean, windsor bean) are usually golden brown, with After soaking, pop each fava out of its sold whole with skin on, the occasional ivory bean. Tough- skin, discarding the skins. Conventional or split, skin removed. skinned, they must be peeled after Stovetop: whole peeled favas, 1–1³⁄4 for fresh favas, soaking. Smooth, creamy, a little hours; peeled and split, 40 minutes. see page 44. buttery, with a trace of bitterness. In either case, cook until disintegrated and creamy. Cannot be pressure-Cooked. Slow-Cooker: whole peeled favas, 1 hour on high, then 3–4 hours on low. Peeled and split favas, 40 minutes on high, then 2–3 hours on low. In either case, cook until disintegrated and creamy. Flageolet New World native, an immature Soak? Yes. Conventional Stovetop: kidney bean, grown, developed, and 1³⁄4–2¹⁄4 hours. pressure Cooker: 15–20 adored in France. Smallish beans are minutes. Slow-Cooker: 1³⁄4 hours on pale green, with an occasional ivory high, then 6–7 hours on low. one sneaking in; turn ivory-golden when cooked. Creamy, agreeable. Gigande New World origin, but bred and now Soak? Yes. Conventional Stovetop: 1¹⁄4–1¹⁄² (giant lima, giant butter primarily grown and eaten in Greece. hours. pressure Cooker: 11–13 minutes. bean, elephante, elephant Shaped like a giant lima, this is a Slow-Cooker: 1¹⁄ hours on high, then bean) ² huge, sweet-starchy white bean. 6–7 hours on low.