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344 appendix Basic Beanery

Name(s) Origin & Characteristics soaking &

Adzuki Himalayan native, now grown Soaked, conventional stovetop: 40 (aduki, azuki, red , throughout Asia. Especially loved in minutes. Unsoaked, conventional stovetop: red oriental) Japan. Small, nearly round red 1¼ hours. Soaked, pressure cooker: 5–7 with a thread of white along part of minutes. Unsoaked, pressure cooker: the seam. Slightly sweet, starchy. 15–20 minutes. Lower in oligosaccharides.

Anasazi New World native (present-day Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 2–2¹⁄² (cave bean and New Mexico junction of Arizona, New Mexico, hours. Pressure cooker: 15–18 minutes Appaloosa—though it Colorado, Utah). White speckled with at full pressure; let pressure release isn’t one) burgundy to rust-brown. Slightly gradually. Slow-cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on sweet, a little mealy. Lower in high, then 6 hours on low. oligosaccharides.

Appaloosa New World native. Slightly elongated, Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 2–2¹⁄² (Dapple gray, curved, one end white, the other end hours. Pressure cooker: 15–18 minutes; gray nightfall) mottled with black and brown. Holds let pressure release gradually. Slow- its shape well; slightly herbaceous- cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on high, then 6–7 piney in flavor, a little mealy. Lower in hours on low. oligosaccharides.

Black-eyed pea West African native, now grown and Soak? Optional. Soaked, conventional (black-eyes, lobia, loved worldwide. An ivory-white stovetop: 20–30 minutes. Unsoaked, chawali) cowpea with a black “eye” across conventional stovetop: 45–55 minutes. the indentation. Distinctive ashy, Soaked, pressure cooker: 5–7 minutes. -y taste, starchy texture. Unsoaked, pressure cooker: 9–11 minutes.

 All cooking times are approximate. The older the bean is, the longer it will take to cook. Always taste for tenderness about three-quarters of the way through the shorter suggested time when using a conventional pot or slow-cooker. When using a pressure cooker, stop the cooking at the earlier end of the cooking range, let pressure release gradually, open, and taste. If not tender, reseal the lid and bring it back up to high pressure for the remaining time.

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Widely available in Mung beans can and often Sweetened and made into a paste, used natural foods markets do serve as a substitute— in many Asian , including moon and Asian groceries. similar taste and cooking cakes and ice cream. Cooked with sticky time—but visually quite rice (Japan). Cooked with butter and different. as a pudding (Somalia). Bean of choice for dahls in North India.

Occasionally available in Pinto, pink, tepary, “real” Usually in with Southwestern natural foods markets, appaloosa. Though different seasonings (chile, cumin, garlic, onion, specialty foods stores. visually and tastewise, peppers). Sometimes used in baked Online: Purcell’s Mountain navy and black beans work beans in the Southwest (often added: Farm; Rancho Gordo; functionally. ham, bacon, or salt ). In Southwest, Bob’s Red Mill; Adobe often served at festivals honoring Native Milling of Dove Creek. Americans.

Not in most Pinto, pinquito, anasazi, Usually cooked as a , with supermarkets. Online: tepary. Though different Southwestern seasonings (see above). Rancho Gordo; Bob’s Red visually and tastewise, Often ham, bacon, or salt pork is added. Mill; Purcell’s Mountain navy and black beans work Also sometimes used in in Farm. functionally. the Southwest.

Widely available in All share about the Akkra, a deep-fried (Africa). Buñelo, supermarkets. same cooking time, though a similar fritter (Colombia). Chèotâutráng, each differs slightly in flavor. a sweet pudding (Thailand). Tossed with Lady, crowder, cream, clay, oil, vegetables, and lemon (Greece). and pigeon peas, or goat’s As Hoppin’ John and (U.S.). eye or beans work In many regional curries (India). Also a in black-eyed pea recipes. traditional side dish for a meal of cod and potatoes (Portugal).

Yields for virtually all dried beans: 1 cup dried beans, peas, or lentils equals 2¼ to 2½ cups cooked. 346 appendix

Name(s) Origin & Characteristics soaking & Cooking

Black bean New World native. Shiny, true black Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 1¹⁄²–2 (turtle bean, black uncooked; cooking liquid turns hours. Pressure cooker: 15–18 minutes valentine, frijol negro, smoky-purplish. Creamy texture at full pressure; let pressure release feijão preto) when cooked. Flavor has an unusual, gradually. Slow-cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on faintly sweet note, reminiscent of high, then 6–7 hours on low. some chocolate.

Cannellini New World (Argentina) native, now Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: Cook (white ) much loved and used in Italy. White, at a full, hard boil for 10 minutes, then slightly elongated. Creamy texture, cook slowly 1¹⁄²–2 hours. Pressure pleasingly bland, slightly nutty. cooker: 11–13 minutes; let pressure release gradually. Slow-cooker: Boil on stovetop for 10 minutes, then transfer to cooker for 1 hour on high, then 6–7 hours on low.

Chickpea Middle East (probably Turkey) Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 2–3 (garbanzo, cece, ceci, native. Round, pale yellow to light hours. Pressure cooker: 12–15 minutes; channa; also available as brown, with a ridge on one side. Slow let pressure release gradually. Slow- flour, or besan) to cook, holds its shape well, has a cooker: 2 hours on high, then 6¹⁄²–7¹⁄² pleasant, nutty flavor and slightly hours on low. mealy texture.

Desi dahl Desi dahl is a second variety of (Kala channa or black —smaller, firmer, darker, chickpea; Also available more wrinkled, a staple of Indian as flour, or Kala Besan; regular Besan can home cooking; used in channa dahl. substitute)

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Widely available in For cooking properties,  (Brazil). Moors y Christianos supermarkets. interchangeable with most soup (Cuba). In New Mexico, served New World beans, including with every Southwestern plate by cranberry, pinto, navy, and default. Common in chili, especially chili many more. But for flavor and mole; and in soup, often with sherry color, nothing else looks or (U.S.). Excellent in bean-burgers; flavor tastes like black beans. compatible with mushrooms.

In some supermarkets. Interchangeable with most Often used in , e fagioli, Online: Purcell’s New World beans, but navy and other Tuscan bean soups. Also Mountain Farm; Rancho and Great Northern are marinated and used as an appetizer Gordo. closest visually. or addition to salad (Italy).

The European/Middle The chickpea is sui generis. Base for and , and used Eastern variety is widely It’s one of the slowest- in many soups (Middle East). Used in available. cooking beans (second only countless curries, especially with potato to the soybean) and is shaped and cauliflower, as well as a plain dahl like no other bean, with a (India). The whole cooked beans, in sugar flavor and texture like no syrup, are also eaten as a sweet and used other bean. If you fall in love in a variety of desserts (Philippines). Part with a chickpea recipe but of most three-bean salads, and often want to make it with some a component of bean-burgers (U.S.). other bean, fine; just adjust cooking time according to the bean cooked. You’ll have a good result, it just won’t be chickpea-ish.

Desi dahl is available at See comments above. Desi dahl, curried, is classic Indian home any Indian market. Besan cooking. Flour is an ingredient in batter is available at many for deep-fried vegetables (India). Used natural foods markets, in shortbreadlike cookies (Persia/Iran), Indian groceries, and and in flatbreads (, Sicily; socca, through Bob’s Red Mill. France). 348 appendix

Name(s) Origin & Characteristics soaking & Cooking

Cranberry New World (Colombia) native. Ivory Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 1¹⁄²–2 (borlotti, Tongues of Fire, or tan, beautifully mottled with hours. Pressure cooker: 11–13 minutes. Dragon’s Tongue ) striations of red, burgundy, even Slow-cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on high, then 6 bright pink. A melting, creamy hours on low. texture; a little nutlike; very pleasing.

Fava North Africa native. Shaped like Soak? Yes, for whole favas. No, for split, (broad bean, horse bean, , bumpy lima beans, dried favas peeled favas. Extra step for whole beans: bell bean, Windsor bean) are usually golden brown, with After soaking, pop each fava out of its Sold whole with skin on, the occasional ivory bean. Tough- skin, discarding the skins. Conventional or split, skin removed. skinned, they must be peeled after stovetop: whole peeled favas, 1–1³⁄4 For fresh favas, soaking. Smooth, creamy, a little hours; peeled and split, 40 minutes. see page 44. buttery, with a trace of bitterness. In either case, cook until disintegrated and creamy. Cannot be pressure-cooked. Slow-cooker: whole peeled favas, 1 hour on high, then 3–4 hours on low. Peeled and split favas, 40 minutes on high, then 2–3 hours on low. In either case, cook until disintegrated and creamy.

Flageolet New World native, an immature Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: kidney bean, grown, developed, and 1³⁄4–2¹⁄4 hours. Pressure cooker: 15–20 adored in France. Smallish beans are minutes. Slow-cooker: 1³⁄4 hours on pale green, with an occasional ivory high, then 6–7 hours on low. one sneaking in; turn ivory-golden when cooked. Creamy, agreeable.

Gigande New World origin, but bred and now Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 1¹⁄4–1¹⁄² (giant lima, giant butter primarily grown and eaten in Greece. hours. Pressure cooker: 11–13 minutes. bean, elephante, elephant Shaped like a giant lima, this is a Slow-cooker: 1¹⁄ hours on high, then bean) ² huge, sweet-starchy white bean. 6–7 hours on low.

Great Northern New World native. A white bean, Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 1¹⁄²–2 slightly larger than the , hours. Pressure cooker: 11–13 minutes. bland, meltingly textured, starchy. Slow-cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on high, then 6–7 hours on low.

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Not in most If you’re substituting visually, Barbunya, with slow-cooked tomatoes, supermarkets. Online: pinto beans look very similar vegetables, lots of (Turkey). Used in Purcell’s Mountain Farm; to cranberry, but are quite soups and stews, often with spicy Rancho Gordo; Bob’s Red different in taste. Cannellini (Portugal). Sometimes in fagioli and in a Mill. or red kidney beans are hearty Piedmontese risotto with sausage closer taste-alikes, but don’t (Italy). look like cranberry beans.

At Middle Eastern and The closest approximation , favas cooked with oil, specialty foods stores; for the flavor and texture of cumin, lemon, and onions, often for at some natural foods dried split favas is cooked breakfast (Egypt). Baghalee polo, markets. Online: Shamra yellow split peas. But to rice cooked with favas (Persia/Iran). sells two varieties of true fava lovers, there is no Skordalia, garlicky fava (Greece). whole dried favas and one substitute. In stews, and made into flour (Ethiopia). split. Whole dried favas Bagiana, a fava soup with onions, garlic, also available through beet greens, , and lard (Italy). A Purcell’s Mountain Farm single fava bean baked in a cake for luck and La Tienda. Peeled, (many countries). split fava available through Kalamala, where they are called “yellow favas” (Golchin).

Hard to find; available Cannellini beans are a good Traditional in , as well as cooked at some specialty foods substitute, and navy beans and mashed and served like mashed stores. Online: Rancho are fine in a pinch. potatoes with lamb (France). Good in Gordo and Purcell’s soups, and also cooked, marinated, and Mountain Farms. served as a salad or starter.

Available in While baby or Fordhook limas With garlic, olive oil, tomatoes, and fresh Mediterranean specialty would work as a miniature dill as a side dish or starter (Greece). Also foods stores. Online: substitute visually; the whole excellent in soups. Purcell Mountain Farms. point of this bean is its unique size, shape, and texture.

Readily available. Navy beans or cannellini. Often used instead of navy beans in baked beans, soups, or pies. Since it holds its shape well and is a bit larger than navies, it’s sometimes cooked and used marinated in salads. 350 appendix

Name(s) Origin & Characteristics soaking & Cooking

Kidney bean New World native. Kidney shaped, Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: Cook (red bean, chili bean, shiny dark-red seed coat. Cooks up at a full, hard boil for 10 minutes, then ) creamy, with a little sweetness. Mild cook slowly 1¹⁄²–2 hours. Pressure in flavor. cooker: 11–13 minutes; let pressure release gradually. Slow-cooker: Boil on stovetop for 10 minutes, then transfer to cooker, 1 hour on high, then 6–7 hours on low.

Lentil See “Luscious lentils & other lovable little ,” page 354.

Lima, baby New World (Peru) native. Flattened, Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 1¹⁄4–1³⁄4 (butter bean, haba) parchment-white, smaller bean. hours. Pressure cooker: 10–12 minutes. Smooth, creamy, a little sweet. Slow-cooker: 1 hour on high, then 6 Cooked, they’re quite soft and don’t hours on low. hold their shape well.

Lima, large Larger version of the above. Cooking (Fordhook) times, et al, apply, but the larges hold their shape better than the babies when cooked.

Lima, New World (Peru) native. Large, Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 1¹⁄4–1³⁄4 Christmas flattened, parchment-white, mottled hours. Pressure cooker: 10–12 minutes. (Pope’s bean, with a deep burgundy. A little Slow-cooker: 1 hour on high, then 6 chestnut lima) sweet, slightly mealy, with a distinct hours on low. chestnut-like flavor. Hold their shape better than other limas.

Mung India/Pakistan native. Small, almost Soak? Optional. Soaked, conventional (moong, green gram, round, green with a small white stovetop: 40 minutes. Unsoaked, moog) stripe along part of its seam. Mild conventional stovetop: 1¹⁄4 hours. Soaked, Split mung beans, their and starchy, a tiny bit mealy. pressure cooker: 5–7 minutes. Unsoaked, seed coats removed, are pressure cooker: 15–20 minutes. called moong dahl, and are yellow.

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Readily available. Cannellini (for flavor and Used in many curries (India). Used in texture), pintos for looks. New Orleans’s famed , and always present in three-bean salads (U.S.).

Readily available. Navy beans. In stews, with chicken, lamb, or beef. In rice dishes made with fresh limas in season and dried the rest of the time, including Dami-e Baghala, with turmeric, and Shevid Baghali, with fresh dill (Persia/Iran). As a “soup bean” with ham, served with cornbread, and in Brunswick Stew (U.S., South).

Readily available. Navy beans, though they’re As above. And fresh Fordhook are divine— smaller chestnutty and sweet.

Available in some No other beans have the Marvelous in any bean soup, also specialty foods stores and distinctive look, size, and excellent creamed. Cooked, mashed, natural foods markets. chestnut flavor of Christmas sweetened, and covered with whipped Online: Rancho Gordo or Limas. cream, they’re a dead ringer for the Purcell Mountain Farms. chestnut puree that is key to the French Mont Blanc.

Available at any natural Adzuki beans—very similar Often used for sprouting. Green gram, a foods store or market. in cooking properties, mild curry served with whole wheat dosa texture, and taste, but (South India). Ginisang mongg, mung visually different. bean soup with shrimp (Philippines). Sweetened, mixed with coconut milk, as dessert (Vietnam, Thailand, Philippines, Indonesia). Mung bean is used to make transparent or cellophane noodles, popular throughout Asia. 352 appendix

Name(s) Origin & Characteristics soaking & Cooking

Navy New World native. Smaller white Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 1¹⁄²–2 (pea bean, haricot) bean. Soft but not creamily so. A hours. Pressure cooker: 12–14 minutes. pleasant neutral flavor, bland, a little Slow-cooker: 1 hour on high, then 6–7 starchy. hours on low.

Pigeon pea An African native and a Caribbean Soak? Optional. Unsoaked, conventional (congo pea, gandule, fave. A small rounded bean, beige or stovetop: 45–60 minutes. Soaked, Caja Pea, Goongoo Pea). golden, speckled with brown. Slightly conventional stovetop: 25–35 minutes. When split, toor dahl. sweet, a little mealy. Unsoaked, pressure cooker: 9–11 minutes. Soaked, pressure cooker: 7–9 minutes. Unsoaked, slow-cooker: 1 hour on high, then 6–7 hours on low. Soaked, slow- cooker: 1 hour on high, then 2–3 hours on low.

Pinto New World native. Pink-buff bean Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: mottled with a deeper brown- 1¹⁄²–2¹⁄4 hours. Pressure cooker: 11–13 burgundy. It cooks up plump, minutes; then let pressure release creamy, a little sweet, mild. gradually. Slow-cooker: 1 hour on high, then 6–7 hours on low.

Rattlesnake New World native, a pinto relative, Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: variegated in much the same way, 1¹⁄²–2¹⁄4 hours. Pressure cooker: 11–13 except the pink/burgundy tones minutes; then let pressure release are more purely brown/dark brown. gradually. Slow-cooker: 1 hour on high, Plump, creamy, a little sweet. then 6–7 hours on low. Slightly intensified flavor.

Soybean: For notes on edamame, see page 25; soy sauce and miso, see page 80; and as meat analogs, see page 243.

Tepary A New World native, the tepary Soak? Yes. Conventional stovetop: 1³⁄4– grows successfully in drought 2¹⁄² hours. Pressure cooker: 18 minutes; conditions; small, flattish bean with then let pressure release gradually. a dense texture. Available in both Slow-cooker: 1¹⁄² hours on high, then brown and white varieties, the latter 6–7 hours on low. slightly sweeter.

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Readily available. Great Northern, cannellini, The bean traditionally used in U.S. Senate baby lima. Bean Soup and in baked beans. Much loved in Great Britain, it’s also favored in the U.S. Black Muslim communities use it in a sweet bean .

At most markets where Any cowpea (medium-size Toor dahl is the bean of choice in many there is a Latino, African, hot-climate bean): Black- dahls, de rigueur in the thin hot soup/ or Caribbean population eyed, crowder pea, goat’s sauce called sambhar (India). Moro de (also canned, from Goya). eye bean, asparagus bean, Guandules, rice and pigeon peas; in stew, Online: Purcell Mountain lady pea, cream pea, clay with plantain (Dominican Republic). Farms. pea. Though they differ Bean, as well as its leaves, is used in some in flavor, cooking times many spicy stews known as w’aats are about the same. (Ethiopia).

Widely available. Pinto’s flavor is unique, The default bean used for refrieds in but red kidney, appaloosa, Tex-Mex restaurants. Excellent in chilis of rattlesnake, cranberry, and any type, soups, and any Southwestern- anasazi beans all work well. seasoned casserole.

Hard to find, though Pinto. See above. some specialty foods stores have them. Online: Purcell Mountain Farms.

Not widely available, Its flavor and looks are An excellent soup bean, it pairs nicely though some specialty unique, but pinto, kidney, with Southwestern flavors and vegetables. stores carry it. Online: black, and navy beans would Often cooked with a ham bone or chunk Rancho Gordo; Purcell all work well in recipes of salt pork. Mountain Farms. calling for it.