Gastro Vodič Kroz

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Gastro Vodič Kroz Gastro | Budimpešta GASTRO VODIČ KROZ Sa zadatkom da provjerimo sve najbolje što trenutačno nudi Budimpešta, uputili smo se u glavni grad Mađarske i pokušali sastaviti svojevrstan vodič za gastro vikend u tom biseru Dunava. Pokazalo se da se radi o nimalo lakom zadatku, i to zbog neočekivano velikog broja izvrsnih lokala a su davno prošla vremena kada su na zalo se da se radi o nimalo laku zadatku, i spomen mađarske kuhinje prvo na pamet to zbog neočekivano velikog broja izvrsnih padali gulaši, perkelti i debrecinke, potvr- lokala. dilo je i ovogodišnje izdanje Michelinova No, krenimo redom. Otkud odjednom vodiča Main Cities of Europe, u kojem je gastro buđenje Mađarske i pokret nove D Budimpešta uknjižila čak četiri restorana mađarske kuhinje? Revoluciju je, rekli su sa zvjezdicom i dva s oznakom Bib Gour- piše nam to mnogi budimpeštanski chefovi, mand. Time je taj grad krenuo stopama pokrenuo jedan jedini čovjek – Tamás B. Velimir susjednoga Beča i odjednom postao vrlo Molnár, novinar i današnji urednik mađar- (Mađarsko udruženje restorana 2009. pred- (maštovita jela jednostavnih naziva: Riječni Cindrić primamljiv hrvatskome gurmanu, ne samo skog izdanja vodiča Gault Millau, koji je prije vidjelo je zatvaranje trećine lokala), trebalo je rakovi, Gusja jetra, Naš vrt, Govedina...) privu- zbog spomenutih priznanja gastro auto- desetak godina počeo pisati o vodećim svjet- samo pet godina da sve urodi nekim plodom, kao je pažnju Michelina, koji je Costesu 2010. riteta, već i radi sve većeg broja iznimno skim chefovima i restoranima, jelima iz lokala doduše ne bez pomoći iz inozemstva. Naime, dodijelio svoju prestižnu zvjezdicu. Vieira ju atraktivnih lokala s vrlo originalnim jelima s tri Michelinove zvjezdice, o suvremenim 2008. u elegantni restoran Costes stigao je drži i danas i kaže: „Uspio sam u Budimpešti iz domene nečega što se može nazvati kulinarskim tehnikama te o potrebi osu- CHEF MIGUEL portugalski chef Miguel Rocha Vieira, čovjek ostati pet godina, što znači da sam zadovoljan novom mađarskom kuhinjom. vremenjavanja mađarske kuhinje. Njegovi ROCHA VIEIRA s diplomom londonskog kulinarskog učilišta i da uživam. Na početku nije bilo lako, ali Sa zadatkom da provjerimo sve najbolje napisi brzo su pobudili pažnju mlađih che- Le Cordon Bleu i iskustvom rada u kuhi- naučio sam voljeti Mađarsku i Budimpeštu“. što trenutačno nudi Budimpešta, uputili smo fova zasićenih onime što su dotad radili, pa njama prestižnih restorana Lombard Street Degustacijski meni: 570 i 840 kn. se u mađarski glavni grad i pokušali sastaviti se oko Molnára s vremenom okupila jezgra (London), Château de Divonne (Francuska) i Već sljedeće godine, Costesu se pridružio svojevrstan vodič za gastro vikend u biseru njih desetak, koji su polako počeli mijenjati El Bulli Hotela (Sevilla). Vieirin jelovnik, koji Onyx, restoran u raskošnoj zgradi ugostitelj- Dunava, kako Budimpeštu vole zvati. Poka- mađarsku kuhinju. je bio suvremena interpretacija tradicionalne ske kuće Gerbeaud, čije pročelje krasi per- TANTI COSTES Usprkos ekonomskoj krizi koja je snažno mađarske kuhinje s najrazličitijim utjecajima pogodila budimpeštansku scenu restorana ONYX BORKONYHA WINEKITCHEN 102 PLAYBOY 218 / RUJAN 2015. PLAYBOY 218 / RUJAN 2015. 103 COSTES Gastro | Budimpešta DOWNTOWN ARAZ DÉRYNÉ BISTRO SZABINA SZULLO I TAMAS SZELL - KUHARSKI PAR IZ ONYXA mladi grašak sa zelenim umakom (inspiriran baskijskim originalom, ali u obliku pjenice), PRESTIGE I CONTINENTAL: BAZA ZA GURMANE juhu od rotkvica s kruškom i kozicom (oku- Gurman će u Budimpešti potražiti Domaćini tvrde da „uzvišena gostiju 21. stoljeća. Ukupno 272 som mađarska, ali s azijatskom notom zbog udoban, poseban i dobro smješten elegancija i vrhunska gastonomija sobe upućuju na secesijski stil đumbira i fish saucea), sipu s domaćim kimc- hotel, no pri tome ne i preskup, jer idu kao ruka u ruci“, pa su se u originala te finu eleganciju stapaju hijem od korabe, kuhanom korabom i bobom će novac radije potrošiti za trpe- Prestigeu udružili s restoranom s modernim oblicima i bojama. te vrlo popularni hrbat i rebrica zeca sa zele- zom. Kao idealne tu predlažemo Costes, čiji je chef Miguel Rocha U skladu s topličkom tradicijom dva hotela. Vieira osmislio jelovnik hotelskog mjesta, gostima su na raspolaga- LACI!KONYHA! nim šparogama, gljivama, njokima i zelenim Ovoga proljeća otvoreni Pre- restorana Costes Downtown nju i moderni wellness & fitness umakom. Glavna jela: 160-300 kn. najnoviji je (ujutro se u njemu služi doručak za centar (jacuzzi, finska i infracrvena janica tog carstva – kavana Gerbeaud (vidi vrhunskih namirnica, spravljenih suvreme- stige Hotel Budapest okvir). Kuhinju restorana otvorenu 2007. u Od svih Michelinovih budimpeštanskih gradski favorit u domeni boutique goste). Portuglaski chef garantira sauna, zatvoreni i otvoreni bazen), nim tehnikama (smuđ s povrćem i paprikom, favorita, nama se najviše svidio vrlo ležerni hotela, udaljen deset minuta istu razinu kreativne kuhinje kao u masažni centar i krovni vrt. početku su vodili po jedan austrijski, francu- PESTI DISZNÓ srnetina sa šparogama i bademima, flank restoran Laci!Konyha! Ne bez razloga dobio lagane šetnje do središnjeg trga svome, Michelinovom zvjezdicom Hotelski restoran Araz, koji se ski i švicarski chef, dok je pod njihovim okri- steak s pečenom mrkvom i barbacue jusom...). Vörösmarty i pješačke ulice Váci. ovjenčanome, Costesu. Cijena bavi klasicima mađarske i francu- se odlično slažu s mađarskim vinima (bogat je oznaku Bib Gourmand kojom se ističu ljem stasala današnja chefica Szabina Szulló te Degustacijski meni: 700 i 780 kn. Veličanstvenoj fasadi zgrade, koju standardne dvokrevetne sobe: od ske kuhinje (tradicija na suvremeni izbor), a chef Ákos Sárközi svakodnevno nudi lokali što nude „iznimno dobru hranu po je projektirao Jósef Hild, vraćen je 100 eura (izvan sezone i za raniju način, suvremene tehnike priprave njezin sous chef Tamás Széll. Ako su ova dva restorana prilično skupa Potonji je svoju klasu potvrdio 10. mje- i zanimljiv popis dnevnih jela ispisanih kre- umjerenim cijenama“. Smješten u neatrak- originalni izgled, a njezina školjka, rezervaciju). jela), ponosi se brojnim dobrim, i namijenjena, prije svega, imućnijim turi- natkrivanjem unutarnjeg dvorišta, Za one koji traže nešto malo kako stručnim, tako i kritikama dom na ploči. Valja napomenuti da je Bor- tivnoj četvrti sjeverno od zgrade Parlamenta stom na prestižnom kulinarskom natjecanju stima, 2014. je na listu Michelinovih zvjez- pretvorena je u raskošno, šest jeftinije (ali ništa manje udobno), samih gostiju. Restoran priređuje konyha iznimno popularno mjesto i da se (blizu postaje podzemne željeznice), u alter- Bocuse d’Or 2013. u Lyonu (mađarski debi i danih restorana dovela restoran Borkonyha katova visoko predvorje. a vole noćni život, kao stvoren tematske i večere uz mađarsku preporučuje rezervacija. nativno uređenom prostoru, chef i voditelj Ukupno 85 soba dizajneri su je Continental Hotel Budapest, glazbu. Cijena standardne dvo- prvi newcomer s plasmanom u top-10 u povi- Winekitchen, bistro francuskoga stila koji jesti tog natjecanja). Szulló i Széll danas nude Najnovija budimpeštanska Michelinova restorana Gábor Mogyorósi (40) kuha vrlo uredili kombinacijom starinskog i smješten u staroj secesijskoj zgradi krevetne sobe: od 70 eura (izvan također služi suvremenu verziju mađarske modernog stila, klasično smirena hotela s toplicama, na rubu vrlo sezone i za raniju rezervaciju). Hungarian Evolution Menu, popis osuvre- zvjezdica pripada restoranu Tanti, smje- kreativna jela po senzacionalnim cijenama kuhinje, bogata i zasitna jela po umjere- ugođaja i state-of-the-art opreme žive židovske četvrti s mnoštvom Prestige Hotel Budapest štenome malo izvan središta, u trgovačkom (ručak 80 kuna, degustacijski meni od devet menjenih tradicionalnih mađarskih jela od nim cijenama (glavna jela: 75-190 kn). Sva (namještaj IPE Cavalli, kristalni zanimljivih restorana i pivnica te u Vigyázó Ferenc utca 5 centru usred lijepe rezidencijalne četvrti. slijedova 225 kn, sa sparenim vinima 375 kn). lusteri Swarovski, Villeroy & Boch blizini velikih bulevara. prestigehotelbudapest.com Mogyorósijeva su jela vrlo originalna i umje- sanitarije, engleske rukom slikane Danas je Continental potpuno Continental Hotel Budapest TERMALNE KUPKE: Mladi chef Oliver Heiszler (27), po završetku ugostiteljske škole radio je uz Miguela Vieiru reno moderna, a oslanjaju se na francuske svilene tapete, podovi SICIS, tek- obnovljeni moderni hotel koji Dohány utca 42-44 ODMOR OD TRPEZE temelje i okuse bakine kuhinje, s dodatkom stili Harlequin Leonida Velvet...). sjajno kombinira povijest i zahtjeve Continentalhotelbudapest.com (SA STILOM) u restoranu Costes, a potom stažirao i u više poznatih restorana u San Sebástianu (uklju- azijskih tehnika („Mađarska i azijska kuhinja Budimpešta se ponosi svojom tradicijom prirodnih čujući i Martín Berasategui) te u Kitchen slične su po sklonosti kiselo-slatkim kom- termalnih kupališta, koja potječu još od doba turske binacijama“, reći će Gábor). Upravo to se Bistro, zapravo je tradicionalna institucija. ski klasici), oyster & fish bar, a tijekom čitava okupacije grada. Posjet jednome od njih predstavljat Tableu chefa Jamesa Knappetta u Londonu. dana i svjež kruh i slatko pecivo iz vlastite će savršen predah od obilaženja gradskih trpeza. Mi – Kada sam ovoga proljeća stigao u Tanti, potvrdilo kad smo kušali kiselo-slatku juhu Lokal koji je život započeo kao jedina kavana smo posjetili raskošno i potpuno obnovljeno termalno restoran je radio tek pola godine i bavio se
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