Pizza Party May Just Become an Annual Tradition
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WINE ENTHUSIAST WINE ENTHUSIAST WINES 430+ REVIEWED 2019 WINE STAR WINNERS REVEALED THE ENTHUSIAST 100 THE ENTHUSIAST BEST OF YEAR 2019 TOP 100 SPIRITS 100 SPIRITS TOP #1 WINE the OF THE YEAR TOP TOP 25 BEERS 25 BEERS TOP 1OO WALLA WALLA WALLA WALLA WINES OF CHILE 2019 AUSTRIA AUSTRIA PIZZA PAIRINGS PIZZA $5.99 US & CANADA BEST OF YEAR 2019 BEST PLUS: TOP 100 SPIRITS & TOP 25 BEERS Winemag.com BOY2019_Cover_FINAL_HY.indd 1 11/4/19 12:44 PM WEE18155-00_CovNews.pgs 11.05.2019 11:01 PIZZAA CHASTKA BEA STYLING: PROP Ditch the cardboard B Y boxes and MIKE DeSIMONE create a & JEFF JENSSEN PHOTOS BY celebratory CHELSEA KYLE FOOD STYLING BY affair with REBECCA JURKEVICH plenty of no better way to wine to pair. ring in the New Year than with everyone’s Party There’s favorite comfort food, pizza. But comfort doesn’t have to mean casual: You can show off by breaking out your fi nest serving pieces and making an array of styles, or go DIY and let your guests load up on their own toppings. For a more intimate experience, pick whichever pie speaks to you most and opt for an upscale bottle to pair. This grown-up take on the pizza party may just become an annual tradition. 154 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2019 WINEMAG.COM | 155 BOY_2019_Pizza_Pairings_HY.indd 154 10/31/19 12:36 PM BOY_2019_Pizza_Pairings_R1_HY.indd 155 11/5/19 12:59 PM WEE18155-00_p154.pgs 10.31.2019 12:41 WEE18155-00_p155.pgs 11.05.2019 13:03 Adapted from The Pizza Bible (Ten Speed Tony Gemignani’s Pizza Napoletana Press, 2014), by Tony Gemignani TOP IT OFF • Fresh garlic Tony Gemignani, author of The Pizza Bible, is a 13-time world pizza champion ¾ teaspoon active dry yeast and owner of several restaurants in Northern California and Nevada. His 3¾ cups 00 flour, plus more for kneading • Anchovies traditional pizza Napoletana dough takes 48 hours to rise and calls for 1 tablespoon diastatic malt powder • Chopped cherry tomatoes (optional) some technical-sounding ingredients like diastatic malt powder, which • Prosciutto and arugula has enzymes that promote yeast development and char. Feel free to 3 ounces poolish (for recipe, visit (added aft er baking) winemag.com/pizzanapoletana) omit it, or purchase online. • Quattro Stagioni: black 2 teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more to olives, jarred artichoke taste hearts, ham and 2 28-ounce cans whole San Marzano sliced mushrooms tomatoes • Quattro Formaggi: Pecorino 4–5 ounces mozzarella fior di latte or di Romano, gorgonzola, bufala Swiss and Asiago In small bowl, combine yeast and 1/3 cup warm water (85˚–90˚F). Whisk vigorously for 30 seconds. Set aside. Combine flour and malt in bowl of stand mixer fitted with dough hook. With mixer running on lowest speed, add 10 tablespoons of ice water, followed by yeast mixture. Rinse yeast bowl with 2 table- spoons of ice water, and add to work bowl. Mix for 15 seconds, then add poolish. Contin- ue to mix at lowest speed for approximately 1 minute. Scrape sides of bowl, and add salt. Mix for 1 minute. Transfer dough to unfloured work surface and knead for 2–3 minutes. Cover with damp dish towel, and let rest at room temperature for about 20 minutes. Divide dough into 3 balls, place on baking sheet, cover with plas- tic wrap and refrigerate 48 hours. To make sauce: Pour canned tomatoes into strainer set over bowl. Reserve liquid. Pair It Pinch stem ends off tomatoes, squeeze out Jules Gregg, wine seeds and discard stems and seeds. Tear director at Tony’s Pizza tomatoes into large pieces, and place in sec- Napoletana, loves to ond bowl. Work tomatoes through food mill pair the Napoletana with or purée in blender. If sauce is too thick to Planeta 2017 Cerasuolo di Vittoria spread, stir in reserved juice. Season with from Sicily. It’s a blend of Nero d’Avola and salt, to taste. Refrigerate in airtight container Frappato grapes. The bright for up to 2 days. fresh-fruit tones of the Frappato Heat oven to 450˚F. Remove 1 dough ball mellows out the acidity of the from refrigerator, let sit 30 minutes, and roll Nero d’Avola, which makes it a out on floured surface. Use hands to stretch perfect pairing with the San Marzano tomato sauce, while accents of dough to fit a 13- to 14-inch round pizza pan. pepper and smoke go well with the Top each with sauce, mozzarella and any char of the delicate crust. additional desired toppings. Repeat with two For a wine with a bit more heft, try remaining balls. Domaine Les Alexandrins 2016 Saint-Joseph Bake about 12 minutes, or until crust . This 100% Syrah from the Northern Rhône Valley has a is browned and cheese is melted. Cooking firm network of tannins that support time can vary depending upon your oven. cherry and raspberry flavors and Serves 6–8. vibrant acidity. 156 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2019 WINEMAG.COM | 157 BOY_2019_Pizza_Pairings_HY.indd 156 11/4/19 11:12 AM BOY_2019_Pizza_Pairings_R1_HY.indd 157 11/5/19 12:59 PM WEE18155-00_p156.pgs 11.04.2019 11:18 WEE18155-00_p157.pgs 11.05.2019 13:03 Courtesy Fabio Viviani, chef/owner, Siena Chef Fabio Viviani’s Deep Dish Pizza Tavern, Chicago TOP IT OFF 5 Fresno chiles, halved and seeded Fabio Viviani, a Top Chef alum and owner of Chicago’s Siena Tavern and Bar Siena, offers his take on • Burnt spicy pepperoni (baked for 7 minutes at Chicago deep dish, which includes a spicy tomato sauce. He likes pepperoni that’s been baked a bit 1 head garlic, end sliced off, plus 4 425˚F) before it goes on the pizza, so it becomes burnt and crispy. A native of Florence, Italy, Viviani smashed cloves serves thin-crust pizza, but as he told us, “Pizza is pizza, and when you live in Chicago… 9–10 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • Fennel sausage there is no excuse to not know how to make a deep-dish pizza.” 1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes • Spinach 6 sundried tomato pieces • Onions 10 fresh basil leaves • Romano and Cheddar (in addition to mozzarella) Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste • Bacon 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons semolina 2¾ teaspoons instant yeast 4 tablespoons butter, melted 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cups shredded low-moisture mozzarella Heat oven to 425˚F. Toss chiles and garlic head with olive oil to coat, and place on baking pan. Roast un- til lightly charred and soft to touch, about 45 minutes. Slice chiles into 1/8-inch strips. Carefully remove garlic cloves from skin. Over medium heat, warm 4 tablespoons olive oil. Add smashed garlic, and brown. Add canned tomatoes. Bring to boil, and smash with potato masher. Reduce to simmer. Add sundried tomatoes, basil, chiles and roasted Pair It garlic. Simmer for 30 minutes. Season with Adam Sweders, wine director salt and pepper, to taste. Remove from heat, for DineAmic Hospitality cool to room temperature, and pass through Group, which owns Viviani’s restaurants, recommends food mill or blend until slightly chunky. Paul Anheuser 2016 To make dough: Mix flour, semolina and Schlossböckelheimer yeast. Slowly add 2 tablespoons olive oil, Koenigsfels Riesling melted butter, vegetable oil and 1 cup plus 2 Kabinett. “This pizza tablespoons warm water (85˚–90˚F). Knead brings the heat, so by hand or stand mixer fitted with dough the residual sugar present in [this] hook on medium-low speed. Transfer to German Riesling is a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with towel and let must to combat the sit 1 hour, or until dough becomes very puffy. spice. The body of this Heat oven to 425˚F. wine is quite full, which Coat 14-inch deep-dish pizza pan with will dance nicely with perhaps the fullest body 3–4 tablespoons olive oil. Stretch dough of all foods, deep dish pizza. into large circle on lightly oiled baking mat. Add in Riesling’s natural knack Transfer to pizza pan, and stretch toward for high acid, and you have a wine edges until it starts to shrink back. Cover, begging for bite after bite.” A rosé sparkler like Alfred and let rest for 15 minutes. Gratien NV Brut Rosé Champagne Spread sauce on crust, and scatter moz- is also an elegant sidekick to Viviani’s zarella and desired toppings evenly atop. spicy pie. Bold strawberry and ripe Bake 35 minutes, or until cheese just starts cherry flavors persist through a long, to brown. Remove from oven, and let rest for toasty finish, while vivid acidity keeps 2 minutes. Serves 4. the heat of the dish in check. 158 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2019 WINEMAG.COM | 159 BOY_2019_Pizza_Pairings_HY.indd 158 10/31/19 12:38 PM BOY_2019_Pizza_Pairings_HY.indd 159 10/31/19 12:39 PM WEE18155-00_p158.pgs 10.31.2019 12:40 WEE18155-00_p159.pgs 10.31.2019 12:40 Buddy’s Detroit-Style Pepperoni Pizza Courtesy Buddy’s Pizza, Detroit 1 teaspoon fresh or active dry yeast Buddy’s Pizza, a family-owned chain in Michigan, is said to be the home of Detroit-style pizza. Originally baked in square, steel pans used to hold spare parts at a local manufacturing plant, Buddy’s pie is shaped 2½ cups bread flour like Sicilian, but there’s a twist: pepperoni goes directly on the dough before it rises, so it absorbs the 1 teaspoon salt TOP IT OFF • Meat Deluxe: spicy Italian meat’s spicy oils. Cheese goes on next, and it’s all topped by sauce.