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Home , Baku Puppet Theatre, Flame Towers, Gobustan (town), Heydar Aliyev Center, Mehriban Aliyeva, Park Bulvar

Travel by Nivine Maktabi the City of Winds

Heyder Center designed by .

Should I call it the City of Caviar, Oil and Gaz or the land of Caucasian Carpets?

It was in May, right after Beirut Designers’ Week, when I packed a small suitcase and I am specifying small as I admit it was a big mistake to try and travel light for a change. I was flying to Baku, capital of , a city which name’s always fascinated me. In fact, for me, Azerbaijan, the home of the Caucasus, is a name I only crossed in my readings Oil tanks in the middle of the sea. and specially when researching on Caucasian carpets. I headed to Fairmont Hotel, known as the , the tallest and biggest three in the city. An impressive archi- 4 am was the take off; of course I was sleepy and slept on both tecture overlooking the city and the was awaiting me. connecting flights, from Beirut to Istanbul and Istanbul to Baku. As it is not yet a popular touristic destination, most passengers Due to my several travels to carpet manufacturing countries, were either locals or Turkish and around one or two foreigners Azerbaijan was actually a big surprise, very different from what I I would assume working for a petroleum company, BT or alike. imagined it. While still in the taxi, at some point I thought I was in Dubai, then some of the buildings and highways reminded me of Upon arrival, the sun was blinding and a line of black cabs were filling St Petersburg and then again the boulevards resembled . So in the pavement outside the airport. Seeing a cab automatical- a way, the city didn’t have an identity yet again it was impressive ly put a smile on my face. However the color of the cab was purple with all the nicely new mansions, cleanliness, greenery and seaside.

and the steering wheel on the left, contrary to the English black cab. In short, it is a very modern city with a lot of glamour and grandiose. © Nivine Archives Maktabi

Prestige Novembre 2014♦ 132 © Archives Nivine Maktabi flag and hence it was the year of their 2 public. Azerbaijan regained independence in 1991 and returned their into the in 1920 as the Azerbaijanbaijanfirst independenceSoviet Socialistfrom Royal RussiaRe- but was incorporated the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic was established, the date of Azer- and modernity and green representing the Islamic civilization. Islamic the representing green and modernity and credible to learn that the literacy rate is 99% in the country. In 1918, influencetheofTurkish culture, theEuropeanredas democracy throughout 1910-1912 at the request of the cityi.e.: elite. Puppet In fact,Theater it andis thein- Philharmonic Hall andthat wasthe constructed rest are Christians and Jews) to have operas, theaters and plays, inequal stripes of blue, red and green, as picture: blue meaning the guages used in the country are Azeri and Turkish and not ports Russian.(Baku, Ganja, Nakhichevan) upon arrival. The official lan- air- international Azerbaijan in visas obtain to opportunity the ,and have theyIsrael including visas no with enter can lations, most CIS (Commonwealth of IndependentUzbekistan, States) countriesRussia, , Turkey, SpainAccording and . to Subhan,As for most visa tourists regu- come mainly from ,south. the to Iran and west the to Armenia northwest, the to CaspianSea to the east, to the north, Turkeyand the Caspian Sea and of the Caucasus region. It is bordered by the tal and the largest city of Azerbaijan, as well as the largest city on crossroads of Western Asia and Eastern Europe, Baku is the capi- learnt some facts from Subhan, our guide. In brief, located at the touringwascapitaltheI Chirine, with childhood my friend and Like with every new country I visit, a bit of history is always good. of the spectacular views of the Caspian Sea and Baku’s skyline. Carpet Museum by the glass window panel. I couldn’t get enough Caspian Sea the and was king so thrilled when I saw the Rolled but it is also the first Muslim-majorityBaku is one of the largest country industrial (95% and culturalare Shiia-Muslimcenters in the East, The Independence 13 the on amazing just was it room, my for As floors. 3 over spreading ESPA-Spa art, the of state a and ceiling high lobby’s the of center the in chandelier markable re- a with hotel contemporary very a Fairmont, at am I Here Shahid SquarenexttoParliamentinBaku. nd independence. The Flag is th floor overloo- floor Inside the incredible Center designed by Zaha Hadid. Outside ZahaHadid projectinBaku. Prestige Novembre 2014 Travel ♦ 133 Travel by Nivine Maktabi

Museum of Modern Art Moma in Baku, painted My room came with this spectacular view on the Caspian Sea and by wife of President, Mehriban Aliyev. the Rolled Carpet Museum.

Discovering history and culture with a modern twist.

Places to visit

The first attraction we visited was the developed and designed by renowned architect Zaha Hadid. The construction of the Center’s facility was launched in 2007 and com- pleted in 2012 to celebrate the National Leader’s 89th anniversary. Recognized as one of the world’s masterpieces in architecture, the Heydar Aliyev Center has immediately grown into a signature ar- chitectural landmark of modern Baku. From the outside, the Rolling chair carpet design. construction looks like waves, some say the signature of the presi- dent but in fact it is just a unique superb architecture. The Curved I was surprised to learn about the Black January, a massacre in architecture includes Conference center, museum, park and a library. the end of the 20th century where one million people gathered in It is quite impressive and very futuristic. I really loved it and loved Independence Square to get their autonomy from USSR. However, the different exhibitions on display. It encompasses 3 sections: they were killed by Gorbatchev tanks of Red Army. Hence the name the Black 20 January when 169 people sacrificed their lives •The Heydar Aliyev Museum and were later buried in the military cemetery. Black January •The Exhibition Halls. This section occupies 9 floors with also known as Black Saturday or the January Massacre was a vio- exhibition halls, administrative office and a spacious white lent crackdown in Baku on January 19-20, 1990, pursuant to a super modern cafeteria. state of emergency during the dissolution of the Soviet Union. •The Auditorium. This section of 4 levels embraces 2 multi- functional conference halls, meeting rooms and the media center. According to the decree of the Heydar Aliyev from December 16, 1999, all victims of the crackdown were awar- The modern Azerbaijan is recognized in the world through its ded an honorary title of the «Martyr of January 20». Heydar Aliyev nationwide leader Heydar Aliyev. And the Center bearing the na- was the president of the country till his death in 2003. His son me of Heydar Aliyev has become a symbol of modern Azerbaijan Elham Aliyev succeeded him. (His wife Mehriban and daughter and modern Baku. In addition, apparently both the beautiful first Layla are very active and big entrepreneurs). The Shahid Square is lady Mehriban (www.mehriban-aliyeva.org) and her attractive a must see as you will visit Black January martyrs eternal flame me- daughter Layla are talented painters and exhibit their art works in morial. It is located right across the Fairmont Hotel, walking distan- both Heydar Aliyev Center and the Moma, museum of modern art. ce from the Parliament and opposite the Funicular (similar to the ones in Swiss mountains) taking you right across the new Carpet museum. Moma is the modern art museum. In March 2009 by the ini- tiative of first lady and with the support of Azerbaijan history can be divided between the medieval era and the the Heydar Aliyev Fund, the Museum of Modern Art has been modern and oil era. For those interested to learn more about Baku oil opened in Baku, by Port Baku. The museum basis is the col- boom and history (Jewish, Persian and Russian influence), I recom- lection of the best works of painting and sculpture of Azerbaijan nd th

mend to read «the Orientalist» by Tom Reiss, a fascinating novel. avant-guardists from 2 half of the 20 century up to now. © Nivine Archives Maktabi

Prestige Novembre 2014♦ 134 © Archives Nivine Maktabi In addition, there were a number of boutique hotels like «Shah hotels a were of there boutique number In addition, re- point weak for mained the and Karabagh Gul Farang carpet, favorite Savonnerie design. My origins. and names carpets shops and was very happy testing my knowledge on all Caucasian say. Prices were mentionedmay I if in cheap dollarsnot and andsculptures to euros.paintings from I works browsedart in most this amazing modern gallery featuring all local talented designers their neighboring country. Besides the carpet shops, there was there shops, carpet the country.Besides neighboring their ry Caucasian carpets and a lot of imported art craft from Turkey, pedestrian area surrounded by old tiny houses. Most shops car- at was foot on stop second My was in in filmed Baku 1999. is world not enough» «The movie will be held in Baku. I was also amazed to know that James Bond 2012 Euro Vision song contest and that in ce, Shakira, JLO were among the famous singers who came for Subhan also pointed out at a huge stadium where in 2013 Beyon- 35m. by 7m measuring line Port BakuthenewdowntownofonHarbour. theirs which is the world’s biggest now, leaving Baku 2 Baku leaving now, biggest world’s the is which theirs executed Tajikistan before world the in flag Azerbaijan biggest that the had learning was stories fascinating the of One nery, clean, very modern and contemporary overlooking the sea. sce- peaceful a is It night. at up lights that d’eau jet small a has It is like walking along Lac Leman in Geneva, especially that it overlookingscene greenery facingbeautiful Sea. a Caspian the ch fashion brands and jewellery like De Beers and Tiffany’s) and (I didn’t expect to come across all the high street Italian and Fren- posite the Four Seasons hotel, where all high end boutiques are main the and boulevards all on drove To tour the city, it was fun going on the sightseeing bus. The bus rently open and not far from mainly«Park foreigners asbulvar», cafes and shops like Paul,the WHSmithbiggest are cur- London.shopping Many ofmall. BP employees reside there. It«Zaytounay is no bay»surprise on a tolarger see scale or maybe «Chelseawers, Harbour» new in hotels, new shops, new Portrestaurants Baku by the harbor. It is their is where you will find the new high-rise, i.e.: Trump To- , the ,a old TowerMaiden the , olvr Square Boulevard nd op- in Rock Art Cultural Landscape Cultural Rock Art Gobustan Baku. outside Gobustan and Volcanoes Mud decided the and discover to adventurous be to wanted we weekend the On the on sea and shore city like the «»in Azerirestaurants cuisinemodern other and of «Tora» number a Italian cuisine. owned by Layla Aliyev, the president’s fact daughter. in She is also It owns habits. local meeting modern a of bit a say would I nibbles. dumplings and rolls sushi the with served was sha shi- terrace outdoor their on that was scene unusual The dish. cod black succulent favorite my I tasted when delighted I was «Chinar». of doorstep the at literally landed and Fairmont the opposite Square» «Shahid from funicular the took We alike. Nobu and Zuma’s was «Chinar», Destination treat. fine dining a for go and ourselves pamper to wanted we night, that Later area. shopping colorful and language sign to the vibrant Square», had in «Fountain colour and size I for the right again as fun was that and shopping for the «ritual»: time makes in Like one always every country, called «Kutab» that comes with ingredients,thingto them. meat,My favorite spinachdish was ortheir cheese.traditional ofEnglish,Lahem evenI bi tried Ajintospeak Farsi hoping itmay mean some- with practically signing and drawing becauseGarden,however no we ended waiterup in «Mankal». knew We placed a our order word Palace»andmany typical restaurants suchKaravanas Sarai, Art On carpetsinold cityMaidenTower. Prestige is a hill and moun- and hill a is Travel Novembre 2014 ♦ 135 Travel by Nivine Maktabi

Mud volcano in Baku.

Adventurous road trip outside Baku: UNESCO World Heritage list.

Mud Volcanoes

I learnt that Azerbaijan and its Caspian coastline are home to near- ly 400 mud volcanoes, more than half the total throughout the world. In 2001, one mud volcano, 15km from Baku, made world headlines when it suddenly started ejecting flames 15 meters high. It was a unique experience as the place was deserted and roads were very remote. The fun part was hearing the mud ejecting and feeling it as it is surprisingly cool unlike the bubbling boiling lava. Our next stop was Gobustan.

Meanwhile on the road, you cannot but notice the crude oil tankers on the highways and in the middle of the sea. In addition, a huge pro- ject, «Khazar Island» was under construction, you may compare it to the Palm Dubai or the Pearl in however on a bigger scale with all its residential compounds and villas overlooking the Caspian Sea.

Chilling on the rock on top of the world in Gobustan. On my way to Gobustan.

tain site occupying the southeast end of the Greater Caucasus mountain ridge in Azerbaijan, about 40 miles (64km) southwest of the centre of Baku on the west bank of the Caspian Sea. In 2007 Gobustan was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site considered to be of «outstanding universal value» for the quali- ty and density of its rock art engravings, for the substantial evi- dence the collection of rock art images presents of hunting, dan- cing and lifestyles scenes in pre-historic and medieval times that the site reflects, which I enjoyed climbing.

For more activities one can assist to an Opera or Ballet Theatre at the opera house and philharmonic hall or take a boat trip on Seasi- de Boulevard, however do not expect to visit oil rocks unless you

are lucky to get a government permission to enter the offshore city. © Nivine Archives Maktabi © Archives Nivine Maktabi With Amina my guide and a customised portrait carpet of the late president. Chonzorek, Fakhralo, Chelaberd, Leshgi, Talish, Shikli rugs, Shikli Talish, Leshgi, Chelaberd, Fakhralo, Chonzorek, pronounces differently according to villages and mountains. and villages to according differently pronounces Seykhour,Borchali, like carpets Kazak the are carpets knotted which are Djajim, Zili, and Soumakh. From the famous piled or terms, flatweaves Kelims are of many kinds, the most famous of presented in two types: piled and pileless. Pileless carpets in other tion and part of furniture. Wonderful Azerbaijani carpets are re- the local Newdecora- local home the a Year,as used being carpets with tion, traditional song performances during the Nohruz holiday,Nohruz the during performances song traditional tion, This craft was highly connected to the daily life of the popula- the of life daily the to connected highly was craft This of of the soul. and life of symbols the immortality ten mystical water canals, double headed animals… These motifs are of- are motifs These animals… headed double canals, water tree of life, cloud bands, cypress tree, eight point medallions, point eight tree, cypress bands, cloud life, of tree tric stylized patterns and very symbolic like stylized dragon, stylized like symbolic very and patterns stylized tric the is land of Caucasian Azerbaijan rugs. last. The rugs for are mainlybest of repetitivethe save geome- to want I Well pets? car- Caucasian the about mention not did I noticed you Have Caucasian carpets In frontofthenewRolledCarpetMuseum. Therefore, for those wondering, Yes I will bepet opened end visiting of August in the Baku Bakuseaside park (boulevard). again car- a of rolled form the in designed museum carpet new The tile museum in Washington, in the Topkapi museum in Istanbul... in Saint-Petersburg, in the Victoria inand many worldAlbert museums in - inLondon, the inin Paris,the in theTex- Hermitagebeenfamous for its unique carpets, which nowadays are exhibited turies the Land of Fire (as the word «Azar» Carpet-weavingin Farsi means fire),art ishas one of the ancient crafts in Azerbaijan. Forditional cen-outfits and tra- music instruments, distinguished has area and tribe veryand Each typicaldresses instruments. formusic with each also group. but rugs with only not similar very is distinction The schools. carpet-making Tabriz and Karabakh position of carpets, such as Guba, Shirvan, com- , Kazak, and palette colour patterns, by country, distinguished are the which in weaving carpet of schools several are There Antique Caucasian carpets in the museum. With Nargisweavingfor32years. Prestige Novembre 2014 Travel ♦ 137