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We've Been Exploring Historic Route 66 Since the Early Part of the Last

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We've Been Exploring Historic Route 66 Since the Early Part of the Last ROUTE Truxton 66 About all that’s left of Truxton’s Route 66 glory days is the Frontier Motel and Café. Ray and Mildred Parker, founding members of the Historic Route 66 Association of Cool Springs Arizona, bought the Frontier in 1957 and Until recently, the owned it until Mildred’s death in 2012. A 1920s-era Cool Springs New Mexico couple bought the motel and is gas station was best in the process of restoring it. The Frontier’s known for being rebuilt gift shop is open, but only sporadically, so on the road again call before stopping by. 928-769-1206 so it could be blown We’ve been exploring Historic Route 66 since the early up in 1992’s univer- sally panned Universal State Route 66 part of the last century, even before the Joads hit the Soldier, a Jean-Claude This relic of the old Route 66 is the Van Damme film. In only section in Arizona that has state the early 2000s, Ned Mother Road. This month, we’re headed back with a route markers. It runs from Kingman Hackberry Leuchtner bought the to Seligman, although its eastern Bob Waldmire, an Illinois native known for station and rebuilt it portion has been turned over to his Route 66 artwork, bought the Hackberry new map and some old friends. again, and today it Yavapai County for maintenance. General Store in the 1990s and was, for a looks much as it did time, the former mining town’s only resi- BY NOAH AUSTIN ILLUSTRATIONS BY ERIC HANSON in Route 66’s heyday. dent. (Waldmire, a vegetarian, once quipped There’s no gas service, that “corn dogs bought this place,” alluding but there are cold to his father being the inventor of the fair- Oatman drinks and a gift shop. food staple.) Waldmire died in 2009, but Hungry, smelly reminders of the past are Sitgreaves Pass 928-768-8366, www. the store — part memorabilia shop and part easy to find in Oatman, a former gold- Modern cars have fuel pumps, coolspringsroute66. museum — lives on. 928-769-2605, www. mining boomtown. Wild burros often roam but old automobiles relied com hackberrygeneralstore.com the town’s streets, seeking handouts from on gravity to move gasoline tourists. The burros are descendants of pack through the engine. That was a animals owned by prospectors, who turned problem on Sitgreaves Pass, a their animals loose after Oatman’s mines steep stretch of Route 66 that Kingman went bust. www.oatmangoldroad.com traverses the Black Mountains Kingman benefited from northeast of Oatman. Tow- Route 66 traffic but also Durlin Hotel truck operators in the area gained importance as a Now called the Oatman Hotel, this inn was a made a fortune hauling hap- water stop on the Atchison, favorite of Clark Gable and Carole Lombard, less motorists over the pass, Topeka and Santa Fe Rail- who stopped there on their honeymoon in the summit of which (3,586 way passenger line between Valentine 1939. Originally constructed in 1902, the hotel feet) offers a nice view of the Los Angeles and Kansas City, After Interstate 40 bypassed was rebuilt following a 1921 fire that leveled surrounding landscape. Missouri. That part of the this town, lovebirds kept visit- most of Oatman. It no longer offers overnight city’s history is celebrated ing in early February to have a accommodations but does have a bar and at Locomotive Park, where Valentine postmark stamped restaurant. 928-768-4408 Engine No. 3759 is on display. on their Valentine’s Day cards. The steam engine traveled That ended in 1990, when the nearly 2.6 million miles postal clerk was murdered and before it was retired in 1953. the post office demolished. 928-757-7919, www.cityof You can still get the postmark Oatman-Topock Highway kingman.gov down the road in Kingman, but While most of Route 66 in Arizona there’s not much left to see in closely follows the path of present- Historic Route 66 Valentine, which had a popula- day Interstate 40, Western Arizona’s Association of Arizona tion of 38 in 2010. portion does not. From Topock to Andy Devine This group was organized Schoolhouse at Truxton Oatman, it’s known as the Oatman- Kingman’s most famous native son in 1987 with the mission of Canyon Training School Topock Highway, and this rough wasn’t actually born there. Prolific preserving and promoting This Valentine landmark was and little-used road features dry character actor Andy Devine, known Arizona’s stretch of the route. part of the U.S. government’s washes, sand dunes and abandoned for playing cowboy sidekicks, was It also operates a gift shop in forced assimilation of Native mining claims. born in Flagstaff in 1905 but moved to the Powerhouse building at Americans in the first part of Kingman when he was a year old. The 120 W. Andy Devine Avenue the 20th century. Hualapai and city celebrates Devine’s legacy with in Kingman. 928-753-5001, other tribes’ children came to the annual Andy Devine Days festival www.azrt66.com the boarding school between and Andy Devine Avenue, a main route Old Trails Bridge 1903 and 1937. Boys practiced through town. www.gokingman.com This 800-foot bridge spans the Colorado River between trades, while girls learned Arizona and California, making it the westernmost domestic skills. The Hualapai point on Arizona’s section of Route 66, which was also Tribe now owns the building known as Will Rogers Highway. It’s supported by a single Yucca and is seeking funds for its 600-foot arch, and it carried automobile traffic from 1916 In 1952, Arizona’s far-western portion of Route 66 was rehabilitation and reuse. to 1948. Today, it supports a natural-gas pipeline. The rerouted through Yucca to bypass the arduous trek through Old Trails Bridge is the tiny town of Topock’s main claim Sitgreaves Pass. That doomed places like Oatman and Cool to fame — the Joad family ventured across it in the film Springs, but it boosted Yucca’s economy until the 1970s, adaptation of The Grapes of Wrath. when Interstate 40 was built along the same route. The town’s population has dwindled to about 120 today. 16 MAY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 17 Havasu Canyon State Route 66 has maintained its importance as a Gateway to the jumping-off point for hikes into Havasu Canyon, a Grand Grand Canyon Canyon tributary on Havasupai Tribe land. From just east After Route 66 died, Williams of Peach Springs on SR 66, it’s a 65-mile drive northeast maintained its importance as the on Indian Road 18 to the Hualapai Hilltop, where the start of the most popular route to 8-mile hike to Supai begins. From this section of SR 66, one of the world’s seven natural you can see all the way to the Canyon’s South Rim on a wonders. Picturesque State Route 64 clear day. 928-448-2121, www.havasupai-nsn.gov The Old Road takes travelers north from Williams Peach Springs Several original segments of to Grand Canyon National Park, and Peach Springs is located on Route 66 exist between Ash the Grand Canyon Railway makes a Hualapai Tribe land and is Route 66 on TV Fork and Williams, but they’re daily run to the Canyon from town. home to the Peach Springs Route 66 was the inspiration for Route 66, in poor shape and suitable only 800-843-8726, www.thetrain.com Trading Post. There, the Grand Canyon Caverns a 1960s TV series in which two men drove a for hiking or mountain-biking. If Hualapais swapped baskets The largest dry caverns in the Corvette across the country and got caught you’re a Route 66 “completist,” and other traditional crafts U.S. are at this attraction east of up in the struggles of people they met along you can find a full accounting for canned food, medicine Peach Springs. The caves are 200 the way. Most of the episodes’ locations of these and other segments in and household goods. The to 300 feet underground and can weren’t even along the route: In Arizona, the Jerry McClanahan’s EZ66 Guide post now houses tribal be accessed via an elevator. A pair visited Page, Tucson, Apache Junction for Travelers, now in its third offices and was listed on the variety of tour options are avail- and Phoenix. In 2014, a remake of the series edition. National Register of Historic able, and there’s also a motel and was announced. Places in 2003. restaurant. 928-422-4565, www. gccaverns.com Pica This Santa Fe Railway stop originally was named Picacho after nearby Picacho Butte, but the Southern Pacific already had a stop named Picacho down south. To avoid confusion, Seligman railroad officials matched Seligman is the home of Angel Delga- coins (the old-days equiva- dillo, the longtime town barber and lent of Rock, Paper, Scissors) the “Mayor of Route 66.” Delgadillo Williams Like most towns along the to see which name had to be pushed Arizona to designate Route 66 route, Williams wasn’t ready changed. The Santa Fe lost, a historic highway, which helped bring Parks to let go of Route 66. But Parks’ segment of and Pica was born. tourists back to Seligman and other towns after Interstate 40 bypassed Williams held off the inevi- Route 66 was built them. He’s retired now but still holds table the longest: In 1984, it in 1931, replacing an court at his barbershop, which is Crookton Road became the last town to be older alignment to the adjacent to Delgadillo’s Route 66 Gift If you’re traveling from bypassed by Interstate 40.
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