Greetings from the Mother Road Four Pairs of Strangers, Four Musclecars, and an Unforgettable Drive Down the Infamous Route 66
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<1960 CHEVROLET CORVAIR SEDAN//1965 CHEVROLET <musclecars CORVAIR ON MONZA ROUTE 110 66>< COUPE><roadtripDRIVE> > greetings from THE MOTHER ROAD Four pairs oF strangers, Four musclecars, and an unForgettable drive down the inFamous route 66 l l l words and photographs richard truesdell NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2006 MOTOR TREND CLASSIC MOTOR TREND CLASSIC SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006 <roadtrip> <musclecars ON ROUTE 66> 3 IT was A muggy, 90-degree mid-August Monday afternoon, somewhere near Odell, Illinois, when someone finally uttered the proverbial “Whose crazy idea was this anyway?” The idea was mine: Drive four musclecars on the mother of all road trips, downtown Chicago to the Santa Monica pier over seven days on the remnants of what John Steinbeck once called The Mother Road. DAy ONE: CHICAgO, ILLINOIS, TO LITCHfIELD, ILLINOIS (250 MILES) 1 If you’re going to drive Route 66 east to west, start to finish, it’s essential to set out from among the skyscrapers of downtown Chicago, where brown-and-white Xxxs project, the logistics signs designating sections of the Route have been preserved after it was formally were formidable, getting two decommissioned. Begin with a hearty brunch at Lou Mitchell’s, an integral West Coast cars to Detroit 4 landmark on the Route for well over a half century. You’ll get complimentary 4 for the Woodward Dream Milk Duds with your meal—and find a long line of patrons out the door. This is Cruise, then returning the where our participants first got acquainted. Camaro and Charger to the From California came a stunning 1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1, a 10-year-old Motor City. Tom Abrams of restoration owned by Arnold and Jann Marks, which, with the exception of Reliable Carriers (reliable- a fresh set of tires, was ready to run when the call came to be the Blue Oval 2 carriers.com), stepped up to representative. Arnold is the owner of Mustangs Etc., a California-based specialty assist. Tom owns a couple of restoration shop. Next up, a 1969 AMC SC/Rambler, whose owner, Mark Fletcher, couldn’t make the start of the trip (he’d join up in Winslow, Arizona), so he designated 1967 DODgE CHARgER Aaron Green and Brian Heitkam of Arizona Autocraft to shepherd the car for the first 2500 miles, having assembled it from more than 20 boxes of parts just two weeks earlier. From the Detroit area, Brian Veit and his mechanic, John Nicles, brought a 1967 Dodge Charger that’s been in his family since new. Brian inherited the black-on-red 383-powered Charger when his older brother passed up the opportunity. Also from Michigan came Kenny Walters. His 1969 Camaro SS/RS benefited from some judicious suspension modifications by a prior owner, a GM engineer, who gave his Camaro the most contemporary ride and handling characteristics 4 among this group. Kenny’s wife, Gina, opted to stay at home, so with a functional, factory air-conditioning system aboard, I rode shotgun. What is it about old gas stations that make them such a lure to car enthusiasts? Two great ones just happened to be on Historic Route 66 in central Illinois: The first in Dwight, where an old Texaco station has been returned to its former glory; the second in Odell, where a preservation effort is making serious headway to restore a 1920s-era Standard station. Odell also is where we picked up our first refugee Route 66er, Dave Jostes, who crashed the party with his 1970 Chevelle. Its speedometer had just crossed the 300,000-mile threshold. In the haste to get the SC/Rambler on the road, the wrong set of rocker arms were installed and weren’t up to the stress of the new valve springs. Aaron and Brian secured a set in Pontiac and were able to get the car back in shape. Meanwhile, Pontiac Mayor Scott McCoy and Jim Jones, of the Illinois Route 66 Association, treated our group to a fine dinner at DeLong’s Casual Dining followed by a private 1 tour of the town’s Route 66 and military museums. DAy TwO: LITCHfIELD, ILLINOIS, TO TULSA, OkLAHOMA (450 MILES) 1970 fORD MUSTANg MACH I Overnighting in Litchfield gave us the opportunity to shoot Kenny’s Camaro at first light at the historic Ariston Café, a fixture along Route 66 since 1931. The rest 2 of the group arrived at eight sharp, and we were off to St. Louis and its magnificent Gateway Arch (though not technically a part of the Route 66 experience), the symbolic front door to the American West. Next stop in St. Louis was Ted Drewes, a frozen-custard emporium on Chippewa Street that’s been a Route 66 institution since 1941 and where general manager Travis Dillon treated the group to our choice of frozen confections. We tanked up at a pristine 1950s-style Sinclair station, also on Chippewa Street, run for the past 55 years by the Weisehan brothers—who still clean your windshield and check your tire pressure. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2006 MOTOR TREND CLASSIC MOTOR TREND CLASSIC SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006 <roadtrip> <musclecars ON ROUTE 66> DAy 4 Next stop after St. Louis was Devil’s Elbow, a stretch of Route 66 I’ve missed on four previous drives. The two-lane bridge over Big Piney River has been bypassed by newer roads twice: first in 1943 when a four-lane section of Route 66 was built to accommodate military traffic from nearby Fort Leonard Wood and then again 6 when Interstate 44 opened in the 1970s. At the Elbow Inn, we indulged in BBQ ribs and brisket as Jann noted the hundreds of bras hanging from the ceiling. She declined to add to the collection. 3 We arrived in Tulsa just as the famous Metro Diner was closing for the night. Sad to say, the University of Tulsa has purchased the property, and the diner is slated for destruction, though this is hardly the first time we learned that another Route 66 landmark might not survive. If you’re seeking traditional lodging in Tulsa, try the Desert Hills Motel. Its rooms are spotless, close to period correct, and the place is way more fun than a chain motel near the airport. DAy THREE: TULSA, OkLAHOMA, TO AMARILLO, TExAS (380 MILES) The day began with breakfast at Tally’s Good Food Café. The portions are huge and the hometown atmosphere authentic. Patrons there were remiss about the 6 impending demise of the nearby Metro Diner. Then it was on to the Rock Cafe in Stroud where we met Dawn Welsh, the inspiration for the Sally Carrera character from the movie “Cars.” Further west in Davenport, we spotted a building with more than a dozen Mustangs around back and doubled back to find three Shelbys inside, including a 1969 powered by a 4.6-liter supercharged V-8 running an independent rear 1969 AMC SC/RAMbLER suspension and painted by custom-car legend Gene Winfield. Dubbed the GT690GW, it’s said to be the first of what will be a series of 20 similar cars. Crossing into Texas in late afternoon, with the mercury near 100 degrees, we landed in Shamrock, home of the U Drop Inn. Built in 1936, this art-deco gas station and café is a Route 66 landmark and has benefited from a recent $1.7- DRIVINg IMPRESSIONS million federal restoration grant. on our last long stretch of old Route 66, between Roy’s in Amboy and We continued into McLean—which was like driving into a ghost town. Despite an Ludlow, we finally had the chance to unleash the SC/Rambler, equipped for early preservation effort, it’s been ravaged by vandalism and is a premiere example quarter-mile sprints with a 3.54 rear axle and 390 cubes under that bug- of what happened to dozens of once-vibrant Route 66 towns bypassed by the catcher hood scoop. From 50 to 100 mph, acceleration is fearsome, testimony Interstates. Kenny said it looked like something out of a Stephen King novel. to the best-balanced package that $3000 would deliver back in 1969. Our main destination for Wednesday night was the famous Big Texan Steak 7 The Mustang, with its smooth-running 351, simply cruised along in air- Ranch and Hotel, home of the free 72-ounce steak—that is, if you can eat it and conditioned comfort, happy at any speed and keeping its reputation intact all the trimmings in an hour or less. with no mechanical malfunctions. With the exception of a master cylinder on day two and a progressively DAy fOUR: AMARILLO, TExAS, TO ALbUqUERqUE, NEw MExICO (380 MILES) worsening shift linkage, the Camaro proved capable of running all day long at Just west of Amarillo is the famous Cadillac Ranch, where you’ll find 10 of America’s triple-digit speeds on deserted stretches of old 66. finest mid-century luxury cars, buried up to their A-pillars. The Charger that surprised the most. The family man’s musclecar, with its We exited I-40 to pick up a great stretch of Route 66 in Vega; there we met expansive bodywork (considered an intermediate in its day), its highly tuned Harold and Tresa Whaley who gave us a tour of their Vega Motel. Unlike many 383, and cruising gears, it was happy to keep pace with the Camaro and, of the motorcourt owners along Route 66, they’ve resisted the urge to convert when given the chance, able to push the speedometer needle well past an the garages into rooms and are making an effort to return the motel to its former indicated (and verified with our Pioneer GPS system) 130 mph.