©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

USA

ME WA New England Pacific , MT p184 Northwest ND New Jersey & VT Rocky Pennsylvania NH p1027 MN MA p74 OR WI MI NY ID p748 SD CT RI WY PA NJ IA Great Lakes NE MD CA p528 OH DE NV Great Plains IL UT p641 IN WV , DC CO & the Capital Region KY VA Southwest KS MO p264 p913 p816 TN NC OK The South SC AZ NM AR p344 MS AL GA LA p697 p464 TX FL

AK Alaska p1085 Hawaii p1105 HI

Trisha Ping, Isabel Albiston, Mark Baker, Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Ray Bartlett, Greg Benchwick, Andrew Bender, Alison Bing, Celeste Brash, Jade Bremner, Gregor Clark, Stephanie d’Arc Taylor, Michael Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Ashley Harrell, John Hecht, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Ali Lemer, Vesna Maric, Virginia Maxwell, Hugh McNaughtan, MaSovaida Morgan, Becky Ohlsen, Lorna Parkes, Chris- topher Pitts, Kevin Raub, Charles Rawlings-Way, Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Mara Vorhees, Benedict Walker, Greg Ward, Karla Zimmerman PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to the USA. . . . . 6 NEW YORK, White Mountains ...... 250 USA Map ...... 8 NEW JERSEY & Hanover...... 254 USA’s Top 25...... 10 PENNSYLVANIA. . . . 74 Maine...... 254 Need to Know...... 22 New York City...... 75 Ogunquit...... 255 First Time USA...... 24 New York State. . . . . 137 Portland...... 255 What’s New...... 26 Long Island...... 137 Midcoast Maine ...... 259 Accommodations. . . . . 28 Hudson Valley...... 143 Downeast Maine...... 261 If You Like… ...... 30 Catskills...... 146 Inland Maine...... 263 Month by Month. . . . . 34 Finger Lakes...... 149 Itineraries ...... 38 The Adirondacks . . . . . 151 WASHINGTON, DC Road Trips & Thousand Islands. . . . . 155 & THE CAPITAL REGION...... 264 Scenic Drives ...... 43 New Jersey ...... 159 Outdoor Activities. . . . 49 Hoboken ...... 160 Washington, DC . . . . . 265 Eat & Drink Maryland...... 294 Like a Local...... 57 Princeton...... 160 Baltimore...... 294 Travel...... 66 Jersey Shore...... 162 Annapolis...... 301 Regions at a Glance. . . . 69 Pennsylvania...... 167 Philadelphia ...... 167 Eastern Shore...... 303 Ocean City...... 304

ALBERTOLOYO /SHUTTERSTOCK © Pennsylvania Dutch Country...... 178 Western Maryland. . . . . 305 Pennsylvania Wilds . . . . 179 Delaware ...... 307 Pittsburgh...... 180 Delaware Coast...... 308 Wilmington & NEW ENGLAND. . . . 184 Brandywine Valley. . . . . 310 Massachusetts. . . . . 185 Dover ...... 310 Boston...... 188 Virginia...... 312 Cape Cod...... 208 Northern Virginia. . . . . 313 The Islands...... 214 Historic Triangle...... 318 Norfolk...... 321 WIGWAM , ROUTE Pioneer Valley...... 217 66 P863 The Berkshires...... 219 Virginia Beach...... 322 Rhode Island...... 222 The Piedmont...... 323 Providence...... 223 Shenandoah Valley. . . 329 PHITHA TANPAIROJSHUTTERSTOCK©/ Newport...... 225 Blue Ridge Highlands & Southwest Virginia. . . . 333 East Bay...... 227 West Virginia...... 336 Connecticut...... 228 Eastern Panhandle. . . . . 337 Hartford...... 228 Monongahela Litchfield Hills...... 230 National Forest...... 339 Connecticut Coast. . . . . 231 New River & Vermont...... 235 Greenbrier Valley. . . . . 341 New Hampshire ...... 246 Southern THE SOUTH...... 344 New Hampshire...... 246 GOLDEN GATE , SAN ...... 345 FRANCISCO P981 Lakes Region...... 248 North Carolina Coast. . . . 345 Contents

The Triangle...... 354 FLORIDA ...... 464 Dayton...... 580 Charlotte...... 358 South Florida ...... 465 Cincinnati ...... 580 North Carolina Miami...... 465 Michigan ...... 584 Mountains...... 360 Fort Lauderdale ...... 482 Detroit...... 584 Great Smoky Mountains Dearborn...... 591 National Park ...... 366 Palm Beach...... 486 Ann Arbor ...... 592 . . . . . 367 The Everglades...... 490 Central Michigan ...... 592 Charleston...... 368 Florida Keys ...... 494 Gold Coast...... 595 Lowcountry...... 373 Atlantic Coast...... 500 Straits of Mackinac. . . . . 599 Myrtle Beach...... 375 Space Coast...... 500 Upper Peninsula...... 600 Greenville & Daytona Beach...... 502 the Upcountry...... 377 St Augustine...... 503 Wisconsin ...... 603 Tennessee...... 378 Jacksonville...... 505 ...... 603 Memphis...... 378 Amelia Island ...... 507 Minnesota...... 614 Nashville ...... 385 Southwest Florida . . . . 508 Minneapolis...... 614 ...... 398 Tampa...... 509 St Paul...... 620 Louisville...... 399 St Petersburg...... 511 Northern Minnesota . . . . 622 Bluegrass Country. . . . . 403 Sarasota...... 512 GREAT PLAINS. . . . 641 Central Kentucky...... 405 Sanibel & ...... 406 Captiva Islands...... 513 ...... 645 Atlanta...... 406 Naples ...... 514 St Louis...... 645 St Charles...... 651 ...... 426 Central Florida. . . . . 516 Birmingham ...... 426 Orlando ...... 516 Hannibal...... 651 Montgomery...... 428 Walt Disney Springfield...... 652 World® Resort...... 518 Selma...... 429 The ...... 652 Universal Orlando Kansas City...... 655 Mobile ...... 430 Resort...... 520 Independence...... 658 Mississippi...... 431 Florida Panhandle . . . . 523 St Joseph...... 659 Oxford ...... 431 Tallahassee...... 523 Iowa ...... 659 Mississippi Delta ...... 432 Pensacola ...... 525 Jackson...... 434 Des Moines...... 660 Natchez...... 436 GREAT LAKES. . . . 528 Sioux City ...... 661 Davenport...... 662 Gulf Coast...... 437 Illinois ...... 529 Iowa City...... 662 Arkansas...... 437 Chicago...... 529 Amana Colonies...... 663 Little Rock...... 437 Indiana...... 564 Cedar Valley ...... 663 Hot Springs...... 439 Indianapolis...... 564 Mt Vernon ...... 664 Tri-Peaks Region...... 440 Ohio ...... 572 Dubuque ...... 664 Ozark Mountains...... 442 Cleveland...... 573 Iowa’s Great Lakes. . . . . 665 ...... 444 Erie Lakeshore New Orleans...... 445 & Islands...... 576 North Dakota ...... 666 St Francisville...... 459 Ohio Amish Country . . . . 577 Fargo...... 666 Cajun Country ...... 460 Columbus ...... 578 Bismarck...... 668 Cajun Wetlands...... 461 Yellow Springs ...... 579 ON THE ROAD

Theodore Roosevelt Galveston...... 724 Ketchum & Sun Valley. . . 812 National Park ...... 668 Corpus Christi ...... 726 Stanley...... 814 South Dakota ...... 669 Padre Island Sioux Falls...... 669 National Seashore. . . . . 727 SOUTHWEST. . . . . 816 Chamberlain...... 670 South Padre Island . . . . . 728 Nevada...... 820 Pierre...... 670 Dallas–Fort Worth . . . . 729 Las Vegas...... 820 Wall...... 671 Dallas...... 729 The Great Basin...... 834 Badlands National Park. . .. 671 Fort Worth...... 736 ...... 834 Ridge Indian West Texas...... 739 Phoenix ...... 835 Reservation...... 672 . . . . 739 Black Hills...... 672 Big Bend Ranch National Park ...... 851 Nebraska...... 679 State Park...... 740 Utah ...... 869 Omaha...... 679 Central West Texas. . . . . 741 Salt Lake City...... 870 Lincoln...... 681 El Paso...... 745 Park City & Grand Island...... 682 Guadalupe Mountains Wasatch Mountains. . . . 875 North Platte ...... 683 National Park ...... 747 Moab & Southeastern Utah ...... 880 Valentine...... 683 ROCKY Zion & Nebraska Panhandle. . . . 684 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 748 Southwestern Utah. . . . . 885 Kansas...... 685 Colorado ...... 752 New Mexico...... 889 Wichita...... 685 Denver...... 753 Albuquerque...... 890 Lawrence...... 687 Boulder ...... 762 Along I-40...... 894 Topeka...... 687 Northern Mountains. . . . 766 Santa Fe...... 894 Chase County...... 688 ...... 785 Oklahoma...... 689 Cheyenne...... 785 CALIFORNIA. . . . . 913 Oklahoma City...... 689 Laramie...... 787 Los Angeles...... 916 Western Oklahoma . . . . 691 Lander...... 788 Southern Tulsa...... 693 Californian Coast. . . . 941 Jackson...... 789 Guthrie...... 694 Disneyland & Anaheim. . . . 941 Cody...... 791 Anadarko...... 695 Orange County Yellowstone Beaches...... 944 Muskogee ...... 695 National Park ...... 792 San Diego ...... 945 Tahlequah ...... 696 Grand Teton National Park ...... 797 Palm Springs & the Deserts...... 955 TEXAS ...... 697 Montana...... 800 Palm Springs...... 956 Central Texas...... 700 Bozeman & Gallatin Valley...... 801 Joshua Tree Austin...... 700 National Park ...... 958 Billings...... 803 San Antonio & Anza-Borrego The Hill Country...... 708 Helena...... 803 Desert State Park...... 960 East Texas...... 716 Missoula...... 805 Mojave National ...... 716 Whitefish...... 806 Preserve...... 961 Clear Lake & Around. . . . 722 Glacier National Park . . . . 807 Death Valley Gulf Coast & Idaho ...... 810 National Park ...... 962 South Texas...... 723 Boise...... 810 Central Coast...... 963 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Santa Barbara...... 963 Wrangell...... 1091 History...... 1126 Santa Barbara to Sitka...... 1093 The Way of Life...... 1138 San Luis Obispo...... 966 Juneau...... 1095 Native Americans. . . . . 1143 San Luis Obispo...... 967 Haines ...... 1097 Morro Bay to Skagway...... 1098 Arts & Architecture. . . . 1146 Hearst Castle ...... 968 Glacier Bay National The Scene . . . . . 1155 Big Sur...... 970 Park & Preserve...... 1099 The Land & Wildlife. . . . 1158 Carmel-by-the-Sea ...... 971 Ketchikan...... 1101 Monterey...... 972 Fairbanks...... 1102 Santa Cruz ...... 974 San Francisco & HAWAII...... 1105 the Bay Area...... 976 Oʻahu ...... 1107 San Francisco...... 976 SURVIVAL Honolulu ...... 1107 Marin County ...... 1001 GUIDE Waikiki...... 1110 Berkeley...... 1002 Hawaiʻi, Northern California. . . . 1003 the Big Island...... 1113 Directory A–Z...... 1164 Wine Country...... 1003 Kailua-Kona...... 1114 Transportation ...... 1175 North Coast...... 1008 ...... 1116 Driving in the USA. . . . 1182 Sacramento...... 1012 Hamakua Coast...... 1117 Gold Country...... 1014 Hilo...... 1118 Index ...... 1190 California’s Northern Hawaiʻi Volcanoes Map Legend...... 1211 Mountains...... 1015 National Park ...... 1119 Sierra Nevada...... 1017 Maui...... 1120 Lahaina ...... 1120 PACIFIC Kihei ...... 1121 NORTHWEST. . . . 1027 Kauaʻi...... 1122 Washington...... 1031 Lihuʻe...... 1123 ...... 1031 Wailua ...... 1123 Olympia...... 1045 Hanalei Bay & the Olympic Peninsula. . . . . 1045 North Shore ...... 1123 San Juan Islands . . . . . 1050 Poʻipu & South Shore. . . . 1124 North Cascades...... 1052 South Cascades...... 1056 Oregon...... 1058 SPECIAL FEATURES Portland...... 1059 Willamette Valley. . . . . 1069 Road Trips & National Mall 3D Scenic Drives ...... 43 Illustration...... 274 Columbia River Gorge. . .. 1071 Oregon Cascades. . . . . 1072 Outdoor Activities. . . . . 49 USA’s National Parks . . . . . 627 Eat & Drink ALASKA...... 1085 Like a Local...... 57 Alcatraz 3D Illustration...... 990 Anchorage...... 1087 Central Park 3D Illustration...... 98 Driving in the USA. . . 1182 Southeast Alaska. . . . 1091 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 38

Itineraries

CANADA MAINE

#• Portland VERMONT Gulf of É Maine NEW HAMPSHIRE

#• Portsmouth É

Concord #•Salem É #• Provincetown Bennington #• É #• Boston #• NEW MASSACHUSETTS YORK É #• Cape Cod

É RHODE CONNECTICUT ISLAND Greenport #•Montauk É #• A T L A N T I C

É É O C E A N New York #• PENNSYLVANIA City NEW JERSEY

2 WEEKS East Coasting

Big cities, historic towns and serene coastlines offer a highlights reel of America’s north- eastern corner. The great dynamo of art, fashion and culture, New York City is America at its most urbane. Spend four days exploring the metropolis, visiting people-watching ‘hoods such as the West and East Villages, Soho and the Upper West Side, with a museum-hop down the Upper East Side. Have a ramble in Central Park, stroll the High Line and take detours to Brooklyn and Queens. After big-city culture, catch your breath at the pretty beaches of Greenport and Montauk on Long Island. Back in NYC, catch the train to Boston for two days of visiting historic sights, dining in the North End and pub-hopping in Cambridge. Strike out for Cape Cod, with its idyllic dunes and pretty shores. Leave time for Provincetown, the Cape’s liveliest settlement. Back in Boston, rent a car and take a three-day jaunt to explore New England’s back roads, staying at heritage B&Bs along the way. Highlights include Salem and Concord in Massachusetts; Bennington, VT; and Portsmouth, NH. If time allows, head up to Maine for lobster feasts amid beau- tifully rugged coastline: Portland is a great place to start. 39

Olympic San Juan CANADA National Islands Glacier Park •# National

÷# Seattle Park •# É ÷# Bob Marshall WA •# TRIP YOUR PLAN R ÷#Wilderness Complex Spokane •# MINNESOTA Mt Rainier Missoula MONTANA NTH DAKOTA #•Bozeman WISCONSIN NEW OREGON Yellowstone Deadwood Minneapolis RHODE

National Park Cody •# YORK ISLAND

÷# É •#

É STH DAKOTA MICHIGAN •# É New York City IDAHO •#÷# #• #• ÷# Black Corn #•Madison PENNSYLVANIA

Grand Teton •# Hills Badlands Palace Chicago #• É National Park WYOMING National #• Philadelphia NEVADA Park IOWA INDIANA Pittsburgh NEBRASKA ILLINOIS OHIO UTAH WEST

VIRGINIA It i nerar i es

MEXICO BAHAMAS

3 WEEKS Northern Expedition

For a different take on the transcontinental journey, plan a route through the north. From New York City, head southwest to historic Philadelphia, then continue west to the idyllic back roads of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Next is Pittsburgh, a surprising town of picturesque bridges and green spaces, cutting-edge museums and lively neighborhoods. Enter Ohio by interstate, but quickly step back in time on a drive through old-fashioned Amish Country. Big-hearted Chicago is the Midwest’s greatest metropolis. Stroll or bike the lakefront, marvel at famous artworks and grand architec- ture, and check out the celebrated restaurant scene. Head north to Madison, a youthful green-loving university town. Detour north to the land of 10,000 lakes (aka Minnesota) for a stop in friendly, arty Minneapolis, followed by a visit to its quieter historic twin, St Paul, across the river. Return to I-90 and activate cruise control, admiring the corn (and the Corn Palace) and the flat, flat South Dakota plains. Hit the brakes for the Badlands National Park and plunge into the Wild West. In the Black Hills, contemplate the nation’s complex history at the massive monuments of Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse, then make a northern de- tour to watch mythic gunfights in Deadwood. Halfway across Wyoming, cruise into Cody to catch a summer rodeo, then take in the wonders of Yellowstone National Park. Next, detour south for hikes past jewel- like lakes and peaks in Grand Teton National Park. Drive back up north, and continue west through rural Montana. The outdoorsy towns of Bozeman and Missoula make fun stops between exploring the alpine beauty of Glacier National Park. After a few days out in the wild, surprising Spokane is a great place to recharge, with a pleasant riverfront and historic district sprinkled with enticing eating and drinking spots. For more cosmopolitan flavor, keep heading west to Seattle, a forward-thinking, eco-minded city with cafe culture, abundant nightlife and speedy island escapes on Puget Sound. If you still have time, the region has some great places to explore, including Mt Rainier, and the San Juan Islands. COCOZERO / SHUTTERSTOCK © New York City Top: skyline (p75) Bottom: Snake River, National Teton Grand (p797) Park

LONEROC / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 40 41

anaa

ne re TRIP YOUR PLAN r Isan New ork City•# Napa Philadelphia•# ne alley Yosemite erse •#National SHINTON, DC#_ Park ta ra aran •# neaa est IrInIa San ÷# our Corners illiamsburg•# Cape rancisco Eastern Sierra esa erde Hatteras •# IrInIa •#

•#Death alley •# É Durango aIrnIa •# •# nrt arIna •# •# ÷# É Las egas It •# Taos st Ocracoke Grand Canyon •# Island Santa e arIna i nerar National Park •# aaaa Charleston erIa •#

arIna ne IssIssII Savannah

eI É É teas IsIana ÷# arfa ustin i es •# •# •# Splinter Hill Bog

Big Bend÷# •# É •# New rIa National Park San Galveston Orleans ntonio Island aaas

eI

1 MONTH Coast to Coast

The ‘Great American Road Trip’: it’s been mythologized hundreds of ways. Now live the dream, driving from shore to shining shore. Start in New York City (but hire a car in cheaper New Jersey) and hit the road. First stop: Philadelphia, a historic city with a burgeoning food, art and music scene. Con- tinue on to Washington, DC. The nation’s capital has a dizzying array of sights, plus great dining and revelry after the museums close. Continue south through Virginia, tak- ing a detour to visit the fantastic historic settlement of colonial Williamsburg. Stick to the coast as you drive south, visiting Cape Hatteras with its pristine dunes, marshes and woodlands. Catch the ferry to remote Ocracoke Island, where the wild ponies run. Further south, take in the alluring architecture of Charleston and Savannah. After- wards stop in Splinter Hill Bog in Alabama, a fantastic site for exploring the biodiversity of the coast, then it’s on to jazz hot spot New Orleans, with a soundtrack of smokin’ hot funk brass bands. The big open skies of Texas are next. Hit the beach at Galveston outside Houston. Follow the Mission Trail and stroll the tree-lined riverwalk in thriving San Antonio, then revel in the great music and drinking scene in Austin. Afterwards, eat your way through scenic Hill Country, stop for art and star-filled nights at Marfa, then hike through jaw-dropping Big Bend National Park. Head north to New Mexico, following the Turquoise Trail up to artsy Santa Fe and far-out Taos. Roll up through Colorado and into beauty Durango, continuing to the Native American cliff-top marvel of Mesa Verde, and the Four Corners four-state intersection. The awe-inspiring Grand Canyon is next. Stay in the area to maximize time near this great wonder. Try your luck amid the bright lights of Las Vegas, then take in the stunning desert landscapes at Death Valley on your ride into California. From there, head up into the majestic forests of the Eastern Sierra, followed by hiking and wildlife-watching in Yosemite. The last stop is in hilly San Francisco, an enchanting city spread between ocean and bay with beautiful vistas and seemingly endless cultural attractions. If there’s time, tack on a grand finale, enjoying the vineyards and gourmet produce of the Napa Valley. 42

Lake Huron a n a a IsnsIn ÷# Sleeping Bear Dunes ne National Lakeshore r ntarI anitowoc #• #f #• Ludington

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN IIan Innesta Lake Lake Michigan ilwaukee #• #• Erie

#•Saugatuck #• Detroit ennsanIa É

nn rbor #• Cleveland É

Ia #•mish Country

É aran

I É est InIana IrInIa It Springfield#• i nerar ayetteville IrInIa IInIs #• ÷# New River Gorge St Louis #• National River

É #•

i es ent loyd IssrI É nrt arIna É #• Nashville tennessee

2 WEEKS Off the Beaten Path

Underdog cities, lakeside islands and boot-scootin’ mountain music are just a few of the things you’ll encounter on this off-the-beaten-path ramble around the central US. Start off in Detroit, which has made a remarkable comeback in the past decade. Stroll the riverwalk, explore recent history (Motown, automobiles) and take in the Motor City’s nightlife scene. Next head to nearby Ann Arbor with its easygoing college-town charm ( shops, farmers markets, pubby bars), before continuing west to Lake Michigan. Drive up through waterfront towns – stopping perhaps in Saugatuck for gallery-hopping – and continue all the way to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, with its dramatic sandscapes, scenic drives and wilderness-covered islands. From there backtrack to Ludington and take the ferry across Lake Michigan to Manitowoc in Wisconsin. Continue south to Milwaukee, one of the best little cities in America, with great art and architecture, abundant microbreweries, summer festivals and memorable riverfront cycling. From there, it’s a 4½-hour drive south to Spring- field, where you can delve into the fascinating past of hometown hero (and America’s favorite president) Abraham Lincoln. Two hours’ drive south is St Louis, with walkable neighborhoods and green spaces (including a park that dwarfs Central Park), plus blues, barbecue and bumping music joints. Speaking of music, up next is Nashville, a place of pilgrimage for lovers of country and blues. Head toward Appalachia – start in Floyd, VA – for an authentic music scene (a frenzy of fiddles, banjos and boot-stompin’) amid the rolling hills of southeastern Virginia. Continue north to Fayetteville in West Virginia, gateway to the breathtaking New River Gorge, which has superb hiking, climbing, mountain biking and white-water rafting. A five-hour drive takes you to the of America’s largest Amish community in Amish Country near Kidron in Ohio. Step back in time at antique shops, old-fashioned farms and bakeries, and quaint 19th-century inns. Afterward, fast-forward into Cleve- land, a city on the cusp of reinvention with up-and-coming gastropubs, newly expanded art museums, green markets and the massive Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. It’s less than three hours back to Detroit. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1186

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

spots. With a shout-out to Mary, Anna and Margie WRITER THANKS for their recommendations. And yes, Michael, I’ll Isabel Albiston include Celtic Crossing! Thanks to everyone in Massachusetts who an- Thank you Brandon Dekema and Christy Germsc- swered my questions so patiently and treated me heid for your Enchanted Circle tips and Angel Fire so kindly, especially to all the museum guides who hospitality! Thanks also to Todd Norman, Matt showed me around along the way. Thanks also to Redington, John White, Marty Robertson, Eliza- Leah, Julie and Andrea for your warm hospitality beth Edgren, Charise May and Ellen McBee. Much and to Trisha for commissioning me for such a obliged for the meet-up and the Central New Mex- great project. Lastly, huge thanks to Ellie, Alan and ico suggestions, Michael Benanav – all right on! Liz for traveling out to join me at the end of my trip. Robert Balkovich Mark Baker Thank you to my family – my mother, father and So many people came out of the woodwork to sister – and friends for their love and support. help me carry out research in Minnesota and Wis- Special thanks to Michael, Raghnild, Elizabeth consin. A partial list would include, in Minnesota: and Ming for their hospitality and wealth of tips, Monte Hanson, Alex Friedrich, Leif Pettersen, Liz and to Matthew for your friendship on the road. Puhl, Zach Peterson, Stacey Mae McGowan Olson Special thanks to Karin, for sharing your love of and Robert Olson. In Wisconsin, I’d like to thank Seattle with me and setting me off on the right Sarah Lewison, Richard Ryan and Joan Menefee, foot, and to Lynae for the wonderful home away among many others. I’d also like to thank Trisha from home where I made many great memories. Ping, the Lonely Planet Destination Editor who first invited me to pitch for this project. Ray Bartlett Huge thanks to Trisha and Evan, the rest of the Amy C Balfour Lonely Planet staff, and my family and friends. For Mississippi insights, thank you Jim Foley, Eone You rock. Met such great folks along the way, Moore, Lake Andrews, Sarah Nobles, Kevin Webb thanks for making the trip what it was: Charissa and Erik Arnold. Team Tennessee includes Jeff and and Bret; Tara, Amber, and Shannon; Palma and Heather Kelsey, Lauren Batte, Jim Hester, Frank Karyn; May Lee; Theresa and Jessenia; Rebeckah Watson, Chad Graddy and David Wells. Melissa and Ashley; ‘Cousin’ Steve; Ericha and Bria; and Michael Peeler, thank you for letting me crash ­Austin (Habari!); Yimee Nguyen; Sabrina V; Mi- at your place and for escorting me to all the good chael Milgate; Kelley Luikey; birder Sara; Swanee; restaurants, watering holes and Memphis hot- 1187 Jason and Sam; and, of course, Kiko the Mer- Rhonda Fitzgerald, Chris Schustrom, Cricket maid. Can’t wait to be back again soon. Butler, BJ Elzinga, Marc Ducharme, Michelle Gaudet, Kimmy Walt, Angel Esperanueva and Greg Benchwick Monica Jungster. And to Carly, Rosie, Willa This book wouldn’t be possible without my and Boone for keeping in touch while in . Dad, Mom, Cara, Bry and little baby wilderness. Violeta. Love you guys. Thanks to the beautiful BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND editors, cartographers and whole team at Lonely Ashley Harrell Planet for making an amazing book. And to the Thanks to Erin Morris for welcoming me to your on-the-ground people that helped along the way, state; Kourtnay King and Paul Haynes for taking like Chris at Pine Needles in Durango and the me in and enabling me; Chandler Routman for lovely Sara. getting me out of the house; Jason, Elizabeth, and Loulou Ryan for being a great family; Celeste Brash Patty Pascal for your unbridled enthusiasm; Thanks to my husband Josh and my kids who Halsey Perrin, Kim Jamieson and Ruta Fox for have come with me on so many Oregon trips your help and expertise; and Chris Dorsel for over the years. And to many friends old and still being amazing. new that helped out this time around, including Thanks to Freda Moon for the advice on Men- Ticari, Chris & Ashley, Nathan, Dana, Jon & docino; Amy Benziger for putting up with my Kara, Ron & Nisa, Elizabeth, Pattye, Rachel Cab- research detours in Tahoe (and in general); the akoff, Amanda Castleman, Dave Nevins, Amy nice Norwegian couple who stopped in Sequoia Hunter, all my LP co-authors and Ben Buckner to pick up two dirty hitchhikers, and Steven for seeing this through. Sparapani and Osa Peligrosa, for joining me on an epic road trip across 3,000 awe-inspiring Jade Bremner miles of Northern California. Thanks to knowledgeable Destination Editor Trisha Ping for all her wisdom on the Southern John Hecht States. Plus, the hardworking Georgia and North Many thanks to all the kind folks in Utah who Carolina barbecue chefs for cooking all that offered their help, be that in the brewpubs, on mind-­blowingly good smoky meat and sauce the trails or wherever else our paths may have that fueled my entire trip around the South. crossed. I also want to thank destination editor Thanks to North Carolina locals Norm and Skye Ben Buckner, the book’s co-writers and my for their top tips and local advice. Last, but defi- lovely wife Lau for all their support. nitely not least, thanks to everyone working hard behind the scenes – Cheree Broughton, Dianne Adam Karlin and Jane, Helen Elfer and Neill Coen. Thank you to the staff, students and faculty of the University of New Orleans CWW for helping Gregor Clark me find my voice when it comes to writing Thanks to the many fellow Vermonters who about the South. Thank you mom and dad for shared their favorite spots in the Green Moun- all you do, and thank you my favorite traveling tain State with me this edition – especially companions: Rachel, Sanda and Isaac. Shawn O’Neil, Margo Whitcomb, Victoria St John, Jim Lockridge and Joy Cohen – and to Brian Kluepfel Gaen, Meigan and Chloe for a lifetime of com- To my wife and North Star, Paula Zorrilla. To panionship on our family adventures in this ­Trisha at Lonely Planet, and Robert and Adam, gorgeous place we call home. my writing cohorts. To Marc in Atlantic City, Brooke in Montauk, and Tom K in Hoboken for Stephanie d’Arc Taylor local knowledge. To Joe Dawson, Laura Tafuri As always, I don’t do anything without support and Karen Ramos for cool beach recommen- and inspiration from Queen Xtine. My home dations. And to all the lovely toll-takers on the team: Maya G, A&E, Daniel and Danielle. Carlo, Garden State Parkway, some of whom I now grazie. The friendly park rangers at Great Basin know on a first-name basis. and staff at Kerouac’s (I’m not stalking you, promise). That guy at Napa Auto Parts in Lone Ali Lemer Pine. At LP: Ben Buckner, Lauren Keith, Alicia Many thanks to Will Coley, Nicole Marsella, Johnson, Martine Power and Sasha Drew for your Adam Michaels, Regis St Louis and Trisha Ping, attention. Thanks to my late father for showing and to Professor Kenneth Jackson, who taught me the calm beauty of the Basin & Range. me more about NYC history than anyone. My work is dedicated to the memory of my father, Michael Grosberg Albert Lemer, a first-generation New Yorker Many thanks to all those who shared their who inspired my enthusiasm for international experiences, knowledge and deep passion travel as much as he kindled my love of our for Glacier, Whitefish and Waterton including shared hometown – the greatest city in the Brian Schott, Greg Fortin, Riley Polumbus, world. 1188 Vesna Maric Christopher Pitts Thanks to Trisha Ping and Evan Godt for com- Thanks to the inordinately kind people of missioning me; to Alicia Estefania and Susana Arizona, in particular my Mom, Michael and Felices; and a huge thanks to Marta Vila for her Maddie in Scottsdale, and Ellen and Norman for generosity. Thank you to Atena Sherry for fun their great tips. In Cochise Stronghold, thanks times. to Tolin for leading the way on the Sheepshead.

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND At home, bises as always to my dearest part- Virginia Maxwell ners in crime, Perrine, Elliot and Celeste. Thanks to DC locals Barbara Balman and Bob Bresnahan for their convivial company and in- Trisha Ping sider tips; to Trisha Ping for giving me the gig Thanks to Alicia Johnson for the sports intel, and supplying interesting leads; to DC expert Bailey Freeman for the local edit and Martine Karla Zimmerman; and to traveling compan- and Sasha for signing me on! ions Eveline Zoutendijk, George Grundy and Ryan Ver Berkmoes. At home in Australia, Kevin Raub thanks and much love to Peter Handsaker, Thanks to Trisha Ping and all my fellow partners who coped with apartment-renovation chaos in crime at Lonely Planet. On the road, Jordan and didn’t blame me for my absence (well, not Mazzoni, Erika Dahl, Ali Lechlitner, Anita and too much). Kevin Welch, Jana and Bill Swigart, Tom and Alice Erlandson, Erika Dahl, Marla Cichowski, MaSovaida Morgan Gina Speckman, Jessica Waytenick, Jeff Berg, Luanne Mattson, Sarah Prasil, Erin Hawkins, Thank you to the lovely souls in Savannah and Erin White, Tyra Miller and Morgan Snyder. beyond who provided tips, guidance and feed- back for this project. In particular, many thanks to Chad Faries and Emily Jones, Robert Firth, Simon Richmond and Trisha Ping for bringing me on. Special Many thanks to the following people who gen- thanks and love to Ny, Ty and Haj. erously shared their time and knowledge about Philadelphia: Jerry Silverman, Lindsay Ryan, Barbara Noe Kennedy Tish Byrne, Mason Wray and Rajeev Shankar. I can’t thank enough the endless line of Wash- Regis St Louis ingtonians who always point me in the right I am grateful to countless innkeepers, park direction, keeping me up to date with the latest rangers, baristas, shop owners and folks ‘from and greatest happenings. But no one can away’ who shared Maine insight. Special thanks surpass the tireless devotion of Kate Gibbs at to Brother Arnold for a fabulous meal at Sab- Destination DC, who’s always there to answer bathday Shaker Village, Scott Cowger­ for the my next question or let me know about the next tips and barn tour in Hallowell, Jack Burke and exhibition – thanks! I also would like to thank Julie Van De Graaf for their kindness in Castine, my husband, David Kennedy, who is always and Gregor Clark and Diane Plauche for general game to experience all that DC has to offer – Maine suggestions. Special thanks to my family, so much fun! who make coming home the best part of travel. Becky Ohlsen Ryan Ver Berkmoes I would like to thank editor Ben Buckner for the Thanks to my dear cousin Brian Sebelski and gig, Celeste Brash for her work on the previous his family for a warm KC welcome. Thanks to edition, Paul Smith for being a great travel Judy Tuwaletstiwa (and Phillip) for an artful wel- companion, and all the dedicated volunteers at come and for the Soya introduction. In Omaha, the many wonderful tiny museums, state parks, big thanks to Aram and Jill. We’ll always have national parks and campgrounds visited along Johnny’s. And to the Plum beyond the setting the way. sun in the west beckoning me home. Lorna Parkes Mara Vorhees Thank you to the residents of New York for To the server at a Gloucester restaurant, who your friendliness, as well as your endearing recommended that I spend my afternoon at day-to-day sidewalk and subway rage; the a certain delightful beach (which is not in this latter I expected, but the former not so much. book). Thanks for sharing your secret spot. I Thanks to Kat and Heather who at various won’t tell. points joined me to rate the best cocktail mix- ologists and live-music dives. Thanks most of Benedict Walker all to Austin and Lily who waited patiently for A special thanks to Cheryl Cowie and Keri me to return home, and to Rob and my in-laws Berthelot for their guidance, support and for holding family life together in my absence. Reiki II’s on the road. As always, to Trish Walker for countless hours in the prayer chair, and 1189 a big shout-out to family; Andy, Sally and P for making sure I didn’t overdo the lobster! In ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS memory of Kevin Hennessy, Ainsley Crabbe and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Ben Carey, my fellow adventurers who passed Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated away in other lands while I was researching this World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate title. A little part of you remains in Rhode Island Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System for me, always. You’ll like it there! Sciences, 11, 1633–44. BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Greg Ward Cover photograph: , New York City; Michele Falzone/AWL Images © Thanks to the many wonderful people who helped me on the road, especially at Historic Illustrations pp98–9, pp274–5 by Javier Stagville , Price’s Chicken Coop, Zarracina; pp990–1 by Michael Weldon. ­Bryson City Bicycles and the Orange County Visitor Center. Thanks too to my editor Trisha Ping for giving me this opportunity, and to my dear wife Sam for everything else. Karla Zimmerman Many thanks to Paula Andruss, Lisa Beran, Lisa DiChiera, Ruggero Fatica, Chuck Palmer, Keith Pandolfi and Bob Sanders for taking the time to share their favorite local spots. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner-for-life and road trip companion. You top my Best List every time.

Peevers, Regis St Louis, Ryan bara Delissen, Andrea Dobbin, THIS BOOK Ver Berkmoes, Mara Vorhees, Bailey Freeman, Emma Gibbs, This 11th edition of Lonely Greg Ward and Karla Zim- Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, ­Planet’s USA guidebook merman. This guidebook was Jennifer Hattam, Gabrielle researched, written and produced by the following: Innes, Helen Koehne, Kellie curated by Trisha Ping, Isabel Destination Editors Ben Langdon, Jodie Martire, Lou Albiston, Mark Baker, Amy Buckner, Evan Godt, Trisha McGregor, Rosie Nicholson, C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Ping, Sarah Stocking Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Ray Bartlett, Greg Benchwick, Senior Product Editors Susan Paterson, Monique Per- Andrew Bender, Alison Bing, ­Martine Power, Vicky Smith rin, Mani Ramaswamy, Sarah Celeste Brash, Jade Bremner, Reid, Fionnuala Twomey, Sam Regional Senior Gregor Clark, Stephanie Wheeler, Monica Woods ­Cartographer Alison Lyall d’Arc Taylor, Michael Gros- Cartographers Rachel Ime- Product Editor Joel Cotterell berg, Anthony Ham, Ashley son, Valentina Kremenchut- Harrell, John Hecht, Adam Book Designer Katherine skaya Marsh Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Ali Cover Researcher Meri Lemer, Vesna Maric, Virginia Assisting Editors Sarah Bai- Blazevski Maxwell, Hugh McNaughtan, ley, James Bainbridge, Judith Thanks to Sain Alizada, Will MaSovaida Morgan, Becky Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Allen, Aron Blesch, Carolyn Ohlsen, Lorna Parkes, Chris- Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Boicos, Sasha Drew, Bruce topher Pitts, Kevin Raub, Katie Connolly, Samantha Evans, Virginie Guegan, Robert Charles Rawlings-Way, Simon Cook, Lucy Cowie, Michelle Layton, Charlotte Orr, Rachel Richmond, Andrea Schulte- Coxall, Melanie Dankel, Bar- Rawling, Carol Sweetenham ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1190

Index

10,000 Islands 493 American Gothic 663 Aquarium of the Pacific Asian Art Museum 977 606 543 Amherst 218-19 926 Aspen Art Museum 773 Amish communities 178 Aquarium at Scripps Bakehouse Art Complex Indiana 571 951 474 A Florida Aquarium 509 Baker Museum 515 Abingdon 335 Ohio 577-8 Georgia Aquarium 407 Ballroom Marfa 743 Abiquiu 901 amusement parks & water parks 30 Monterey Bay Aquarium Balmy Alley 985 Acadia National Park 12, Anakeesta 397-8 972 Barnes Foundation 167 261-2, 633, 13, 633 Belmont Park 950 National Aquarium 295-6 Bennington Museum 238 accessible travel 136, 1164 Busch Gardens 509 Oregon Coast Aquarium Birmingham Museum of New York City 136 1079 Casino Pier 164 Art 427 accommodations 28-9, see Seattle Aquarium 1038 Broad 917 also individual locations Cedar Point Amusement Park 576 Shedd Aquarium 535 Broad Art Museum 592-3 Acoma Pueblo 894 Dinosaur Kingdom II 332 South Carolina Aquarium Carnegie Museum of activities 49-56, see also 369 Art 181 individual locations Disneyland 941-2 South Florida Science Chazen Museum of Art Adirondacks, the 151-5 Dollywood 397 Center & Aquarium 488 608-9 Admiralty Island 1096 ICON Orlando 516 Tennessee Aquarium 395 Knott’s Berry Farm 943 Chicago Cultural Center Agate Fossil Beds National Texas State Aquarium 726 533 Monument 684-5 Knott’s Soak City 943 Virginia Aquarium & Ma- Chihuly Garden & Glass air travel 1175-6, 1177 Luna Park 101 rine Science Center 322 1033 airports 1175-6 Rapids Water Park 488 Arcata 1011 Chinati Foundation Alabama 426-31 Santa Cruz Beach archaeological sites Museum 742-3 Alamo, the 709 Boardwalk 974 Petroglyph Beach 1092 Chrysler Museum of Alamogordo 910 SeaWorld 516-17 Arches National Park 636, Art 321 Alaska 104, 1085-10, 1086 Steel Pier 164 883, 630-1, 637 Clarion Alley 985 accommodations 1085 Trimpers Rides 304 architecture 32, 1152-4 Clark Art Institute 221 climate 1085 Universal Orlando Resort area codes 1170 Cleveland Museum of 520-3 food 1085 Arizona 834-69 Art 573 Universal Studios 521 highlights 1086, 1086 Arizona State University 836 Clyfford Still Museum Valleyfair 614 754-6 travel seasons 1085 Arkansas 437-44 Walt Disney World® Resort Crested Butte Center for Alaska Native Heritage Arkansas River 776 518-20 the Arts 777 Center 1088 Arlington 313 Wisconsin Dells 608 Cummer Museum of Art & Albany 152-3 Arrington 389 Anadarko 695 Gardens 505-6 Albuquerque 890-4 art museums & galleries 33 Anaheim 941-4 Currier Museum of Art Alcatraz 990-1, 992, 990-1, Alaska Native Medical Anchorage 1087-91 246-7 990-1 Center 1088 Ann Arbor 592 Dairy Arts Center 762 Alexandria 313-16 Albright-Knox Art Gallery Dallas Museum of Art 731 Annapolis 301-3 157 Alexandria Bay 155-6 986 Antelope Canyon 860 American Visionary Art alligators 632 Delaware Art Museum 310 Antietam National Museum 297 Alpine 744-5 Denver Art Museum 753 Battlefield 306 Amon Carter Museum of Amana Colonies 663 Apalachicola National American Art 737 Des Moines Art Center Amelia Island 507-8 660 Forest 524 Andy Warhol Museum 180 Detroit Institute of Arts Apostle Islands 612-14 Art Institute of Chicago 585 330 532 Map Pages 000 Dia:Beacon 143 Appomattox 328-9 Art Museum of South Photo Pages 000 aquariums Texas 726 Diego Rivera Gallery 981 1191 District of Columbia Arts Loudoun House 403 New Museum of Con- San Francisco Museum Center 280 Los Angeles County temporary Art 83-4 of Modern Art 976-7 Dr Evermor’s Sculpture Museum of Art 923 New Orleans Museum of Santa Fe 902 Park 608 Margulies Collection at Art 450 SCAD Museum of Art El Paso Museum of the Warehouse 474 Noguchi Museum 102 420 Art 745 MASS MoCA 221 Norman Rockwell Schneider Museum of

Eric Carle Museum of McNay Art Museum 709 Museum 220 Art 1081 INDEX Picture Book Art 219 Menil Collection 717 North Carolina Museum Farnsworth Art Museum Mennello Museum of of Art 355 1032 260 American Art 516 Northwest Museum of Shelburne Museum 244 A   Figge Art Museum 662 Met Breuer 93, 96 Arts & Culture 1055 Smith College Museum Flagler Museum 486 Metropolitan Museum Norton Museum of of Art 218 Florida Museum of Pho- of Art 92 Art 488 Southeast Museum of tographic Arts 509 Mexic-Arte Museum 701 Norton Simon Museum Photography 502 927 Frederick R Weisman Art Speed Art Museum Foundation 923 604 NSU Art Museum Fort 399-400 Lauderdale 483 Freer Gallery of Art 276 Minneapolis Institute of St Louis Art Museum Frick Art & Historical Ar 615 Ogden Museum of 647 Southern Art 451 Center 180 MOCA Grand 919 Taubman Museum of Frick Collection 92 Opus 40 Sculpture Park Art 334 Modern Art Museum of & Museum 149 Frist Center for the Fort Worth 736-7 Torpedo Factory Art Orlando Museum of Center 315 Visual Arts 388 MoMA PS1 102 Art 516 Tucson Museum of Gagosian 83 Museum of Contempo- Galerie F 540-1 Palm Springs Art Art 864 rary Art (Chicago) 539 Museum 956 Gallery of Fine Art 821 Virginia Museum of Fine Museum of Contem- Parrish Art Museum 139 Arts 324 Georgia Museum of porary Art Detroit Art 418 585, 587 Paula Cooper Gallery 83 Void Projects 471 Georgia O’Keeffe Museum of Contempo- Pérez Art Museum Miami Wadsworth Atheneum Museum 895 rary Art Jacksonville 469, 471 229 Getty Center 923 506 Philadelphia Museum of Walker Art Center 615 Art 27, 168 Gibbes Museum of Museum of Contempo- Walters Art Museum Art 368 rary Art North Miami Philbrook Museum of 296-7 Art 693 Guggenheim Museum 92 475 Phillips Collection 280 615 Hallie Ford Museum of Museum of Contempo- Art 1070 rary Photography 535 Phoenix Art Museum Whitney Museum of 836 American Art 81 Harvard Art Museums Museum of Fine Arts 197, 199 (Boston) 197 Pizzuti Collection 578 Williams College Mu- seum of Art 221 Harwood Museum of Museum of Fine Arts, Plains Art Museum 667 Art 903 Houston 717 Portland Art Museum Wing Luke Museum of the Asian Pacific Herbert F Johnson Museum of Indian Arts & 1059, 1061 Culture 899 Portland Museum of American Experience Museum of Art 150 1033 High Museum of Art 407 Museum of International Art 257 Folk Art 899 Wolfsonian-FIU 468 Hirshhorn Museum 273 Provincetown Art Associ- Museum of Latin Ameri- ation & Museum 213 Wynwood Walls 473 Hood Museum of Art 254 can Art 926 Red Cloud Heritage Yale Center for British Hunter Museum of Museum of Modern Art Center 672 Art 233 American Art 395 (New York City) 87 Renwick Gallery 278 Yale University Art Hyde Collection Art Museum of New Mexico Gallery 233-4 Museum 153 Reynolds Center for 899 American Art & arts 1146-15 Indianapolis Museum of Nasher Sculpture Center Portraiture 279 Asbury Park 162-3 Art 565 731 Ringling Museum Asheville 363-6 Institute of Contempo- National Gallery of Complex 512 rary Art 193, 473 Ashland 1081-3 Art 269 RISD Museum of Art 223 Intuit: The Center for Aspen 773-4 National Museum of Rodin Museum 169 Aspen Center for Environ- Intuitive & Outsider Mexican Art 535 Art 540 Rothko Chapel 717 mental Studies 773 National Museum of Rubin Museum of Art 82 Assateague Island 304 Isabella Stewart Gardner Wildlife Art 789 Museum 197 Salvador Dalí Museum Astoria 1076-8 Nelson-Atkins Museum 511 Jepson Center for the of Art 656 Athens 418-20 Arts 420-1 San Diego Museum of Athens (Ohio) 583 Nevada Museum of Art 949 Kimbell Art Museum 736 Art 832 Atlanta 406-16, 408-9 San Francisco Art Laguna Art Museum 945 Atlanta BeltLine 416 New Mexico Museum of Institute 981 Lexington Art League at Art 899 Atlantic City 164-5 1192 Atlantic Coast 500-8 Huntington Beach 944 Bethel 263 Pea Island National ATMs 1168 Keawakapu Beach 1121 bicycling 50-1, 52, 1177-8 Wildlife Refuge 348 Auburn 572 Kiawah Island 373 Abingdon 335 Pelee Island 577 Aurora 150 Kua Bay 1117 Bellingham 1049 South Padre Island 728 Austin 700-7, 702 Kuhio Beach Park 1110 Boston 199 Birmingham 426-8 Austin Music Hall 31 Laguna Beach 945 Cape Cod Rail Trail 209 Bisbee 869 INDEX INDEX Avila Beach 967 La Jolla 950 Chicago 543 Bishop 1024 Aztec Ruins National Lake Tahoe 1026 Cumberland 307 Bismarck 668 Monument 905 Leo Carrillo State Park Detroit 587 Bixby Creek Bridge 971

A-B 929 Duluth 622 Black Hills 672-9, 674-5  Magic Sands Beach 1114 Black Hills National Forest

Falmouth 208  B Makalawena Beach 1117 677 Badlands National Park Fayetteville 343 Martha’s Vineyard 216 Block Island 226 635, 671, 674-5 Franconia Notch State Bloomington (Indiana) 568 Baltimore 294-301 Miami 468, 469 Park 252 Blowing Rock 361-2 Bandelier National Mission Beach 950 Grand Canyon National Monument 901 Muir Beach 1001 Park 853 Bluegrass Country 403-4 Bandera 715-16 Muskegon 596 Grand Teton National bluegrass music 335 Park 799 Barataria Preserve 458 Myrtle Beach 375-6 Blue Ridge Highlands Indiana Dunes 571 333-6 Bar Harbor 262-3 Naples 515 Los Angeles 929 Blue Ridge Parkway 46-8, Barnegat Peninsula 163-4 Natural Bridges State Miami 475, 477 334, 361 Barney Ford Museum 770-1 Beach 974 Minuteman Commuter blues music 1155 Barton Springs Pool 701 Newport Beach 944-5 Bikeway 206 Bluff 884-5 baseball 1141 Ocean Beach 950 Monterey Bay 973 boat travel 1176-7, 1178 basketball 1141-2 Ocean City 304 New York City 102 boat trips Basque Block 810 Ocracoke Beach 351 Northampton 218 Chesapeake Bay 303 Bastrop 708 Ogunquit Beach 255 Olympic Discovery Trail Fort Lauderdale 483-4 Bat Colony Under Congress Orient Beach 142 1048 Islamorada 496 Avenue Bridge 700 Pacific Beach 950 Palm Beach 487 Key Largo 495 Bath 259 Pfeiffer Beach 970 Portland 1063, 1064 Pictured Rocks National Battle Green 206 Pismo Beach 966 Provincetown 213 Lakeshore 601 beaches 30 Queen’s Surf Beach 1110 Richmond 325 St Louis 647 Acadia National Park Rodeo Beach 1001 Salida 775 Washington, DC 282 262 Santa Monica State San Antonio 709 Bodega Bay 1008-9 Bahia Honda State Beach 929 Park 497 Saugatuck 596 San Diego 947 Bodie State Historic Park 1023 Balboa Peninsula 944-5 Seal Beach 944 Santa Fe 895 Bogue Banks 352 Belleayre 147 South Padre Island 728 Seattle 1037 Boise 810-12 Big Beach 1121 St Augustine 504 Sleeping Bear Dunes Na- tional Lakeshore 597 Boldt Castle 155 Black Pot Beach Park Surfrider Beach 929 Springdale 889 Bonnaroo Music Festival 1124 Tourmaline Surfing 393 Canaveral National Park 951 Tallahassee 524 Book of Mormon, the 874 Seashore 501 Virginia Beach 322 Tucson 864 Vail 772 booking services 29 Cannon Beach 1078 Waikiki 110-14 50 Washington, DC 282 books 1148, 1150 Captiva Island 513 bears 1090, 1096, 631 Chicago 543-4 Big Sur 970-1 history 1127, 1130, 1131, Bears Ears National 1135, 1144 Fire Island National Monument 879 Billings 803 Boone 362-3 Seashore 138 Beaufort 352, 374-5 Billy the Kid National Scenic Byway 911 Boothbay Harbor 259-60 Folly Beach 373 Beckley 342-3 birds 1161 border crossings Fort Lauderdale 483 beer 32, 63, 290, 650, Canada 1176 Gulf Islands National 651, 1041 bird-watching 682-3 Mexico 1176 Seashore 526 Bellingham 1049-50 Cape May 166 Hammonasset Beach Bend 1074-6 Grafton Notch State Boston 188-206, 190-1, 233 Park 263 Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream 194-5 Hermosa Beach 929 Factory 242 Lake Martin 462 accommodations 200-1 Honokohau Beach 1117 Bennington 237-8 Laura Quinn Wild Bird activities 199 Sanctuary 495 Berkeley 1002-3 children, travel with 193 Merritt Island National Berkeley Springs 338-9 drinking & nightlife Wildlife Refuge 500-1 203-4 Map Pages 000 Berkshires, the 219-22 Patagonia-Sonoita entertainment 204 Photo Pages 000 Berlin 577 Scenic Road 844 festivals & events 200 1193 food 201-3 Minneapolis 619 camping 1020 Jewel Cave National itineraries 189 Mt Hood Brewing Co cannabidiol (CBD) 26 Monument 678 LGBTIQ+ travelers 203 1073 Cannon Beach 1078-9 Luray Caverns 329 shopping 204-5 Muskegon 596 Cannon Mountain 251-2 Mammoth Cave National sights 188-99 Ninkasi Brewing canoeing, see kayaking & Park 406 tourist offices 205 Company 1071 canoeing Marengo Cave 570

tours 199 Snake River Brewing Canyon de Chelly National Oregon Caves National INDEX Co 791 Monument & Preserve travel to/from 205 Monument 861-2 Taos Mesa Brewery 904 1083 travel within 205-6 Canyonlands National Park Terminal Gravity Brewing 883-4 Wind Cave National walking tours 198, 198  B-C 1084 Cape Blanco Lighthouse Park 678

 Boston Tea Party 196 Truth or Consequences 1081 Cayucos 969 Boulder (Colorado) 762-5 Brewing Co 907 Cape Cod 208-14, 211 Cedar Rapids 665 Boulder (Utah) 886 Überbrew 803 Cape Cod National Cedar Valley 663-4 Boulder Creek 762 Bright Angel Point 858 Seashore 212 cell phones 22, 1170 Boundary Waters 625 Broken Spoke 706 Cape Hatteras National cemeteries bourbon 400 Bronze Fonz 604 Seashore 348 Arlington National Bozeman 801-3 Brooklyn Bridge 100, 25 Cape May 166-7 Cemetery 313 Brandywine Valley 310 Brooklyn Heights Capital Region 264-343, Hollywood Cemetery Branson 654-5 Promenade 100 266-7 324-5 Brattleboro 236-7 brown bears 1090 accommodations 264 Lafayette Cemetery No 1 451 Breckenridge 770-1 Brown University 223 climate 264 Laurel Grove Cemetery Bretton Woods 252-3 Brunswick 424-6 food 264 420 breweries 32 Bryce Canyon National highlights 266-7 Mt Moriah Cemetery Park 887 travel seasons 264 Alchemist Brewery 242 675-6 Anderson Valley Brewing budget 23 Capitan 911 Central Park 93, 94-5, Company 1010 Buffalo 156-8 Capitol Hill 276-8 98-9, 98, 99 Asheville 363, 365 Buffalo National River Capitol Reef National Chaco Culture National 441, 444 Aspen Brewing Co 774 Park 885 Historical Park 906 buffets 828 Blu Dragonfly Brewing Capitol Reef Scenic Drive Chamberlain 670 906 burial mounds 584 885 Chapel Hill 357-8 Bonito Valley Brewing Burlington 243-6 Captiva Island 513-14 Charleston 368-73 Co 911 Burning Man 834 Capulin Volcano National Charleston County Sea Brew Ridge Trail 328 Monument 906 Bushwick Collective 101-2 Islands 373-4 Broken car travel 1176, 1182-5, 1184 bus travel 1176, 1178-9 Charlevoix 599 Brewing 771 driver’s licenses 1182 business hours 1169 Charlotte 358-60 Cider Riot 1067-8 insurance 1182-3 Charlottesville 326-8 Cloudburst Brewing 1041 rental 1183 Charm 577 Cloudcroft Brewing C road rules 1185 Cabrillo National Chase County 688-9 Co 910 Carhenge 685 Monument 950 Chatham 210-12 Culmination Brewing Carlsbad 912 1067 Cadillac Mountain 262 Chattanooga 394-6 Carmel-by-the-Sea 971-2 Ecliptic Brewing 1067 Cahawba 430 Chavez, Cesar 1136 Carrboro 357-8 Fieldwork Brewing Cahokia Mounds State Chelsea Market 81-2 Carson, Rachel 1136 Company 1003, 1013 Historic Site 564 Cherokee people 1143-4 casinos Fifty Fifty Brewing Co Cajun Country 460-1 Chesapeake Bay 295, 1026 Cajun culture 445 Bellagio 821 302, 303 Firestone Walker Brewing Cajun Prairie 462-3 Caesars Palace 821 Cheyenne 785-7 Company 969 Cosmopolitan 823-4 Cajun Wetlands 461-3 Chicago 15, 529-60, 534, Fisher Brewing Company California 14, 104, 913-1026 LINQ Casino 821 536-7, 15 873 accommodations 913 Mandalay Bay 824 accommodations 545-9 Four Peaks Brewing climate 913 NoMad 821 activities 543-4 Company 842 food 913 Paris Las Vegas 824 children, travel with 544 Fremont Brewing Venetian 821, 823 Company 1041 highlights 914-15, 914-15 drinking & nightlife Castillo de San Marcos Na- 553-5 Grand Rapids 593-4 history 916 tional Monument 504 entertainment 555-8 Island Hoppin’ Brewery itineraries 917 Catskills 17, 146-9, 17 1052 travel seasons 913 festivals & events 545 caves June Lake Brewing 1023 Cambria 969 food 549-53 Blanchard Springs Cambridge 197, 199, 203 history 529, 532 Marble Brewery 893 Caverns 442 Cameron 861 itineraries 532 Milwaukee 604 Fantastic Caverns 652 1194 Chicago continued San Felipe de Neri crabs 302 food 757-8 LGBTIQ+ travelers 557 Church 890 Craters of the Moon shopping 760 shopping 558-9 San Fernando Cathedral National Monument & sights 753-6 sights 532-43 709 Preserve 814 tourist information 760-1 tours 544-5 San Francisco de Asís Crawford Notch 252-3 travel to/from 761 Church 903 travel to/from 559 Crazy Horse Memorial 678 travel within 761-2

INDEX INDEX St Andrew’s Dune travel within 559-60 credit cards 1168 Des Moines 660-1 Church 139-40 Creole culture 445 walking tours 542, 542 Detroit 19, 584-91, St John’s Episcopal Crescent City 1012 Chicago Blues Festival 34 Church 324 586, 19

C-D Crested Butte 777-8  children, travel with 66-8 St Louis Cathedral 446 Dexter Avenue Parsonage crime 1169 428

Alaska 1092 St Patrick’s Cathedral 91  Crisfield 295 Diamond Head 1112-13 Albuquerque 893 Thorncrown Chapel 443 Crissy Field 984-5 Dinosaur National Atlanta 407 Trinity Church 79, 196-7 Crooked Road 335 Monument 879-80 Boston 193 Washington National Crystal Coast 352-3 disabilities, travelers with Chicago 544 Cathedral 281 culture 1138-14 136, 1164 Hawaii 1111 Churchill Downs 399 Cumberland 307 Disneyland 941-4 Los Angeles 939 Cimarron 906 Cumberland Island Disneyland Resort® 941 Miami 475 Cincinnati 580-3 National Seashore 425 distilleries New Orleans 447 City Lights Books 980-1 currency 1168 Firefly Distillery 374 Phoenix 837 Civil Rights movement 427 Custer City 678 Jack Daniel’s Distillery Portland 1063 historic sites & museums 379 406-7, 410-11, 427, 428, Custer, George 804 Salt Lake City 872 Kentucky 400 429-30, 434 Custer’s Last Stand 804 San Francisco 999 Maker’s Mark 405 Civil War 1130-1 customs regulations Seattle 1038 Ole Smoky Moonshine Clarksdale 433-4 1164-5 Texas 704 398 Clear Lake 722-3 Cutchogue 141 Chilkoot Trail 1099 Santa Fe Spirits 898 Cleveland 573-6 cycling, see bicycling Chimayó 903 Siesta Key Rum 513 Chimney Rock 363 climate 22, 22 Wigle Whiskey 181 Chimney Rock National climate change 1162 D diving & snorkeling 55-6 Dahlonega 417 Historic Site 685 Cloudcroft 910 Biscayne National Chippewa people 1144-5 CNN Center 407 Dallas 729-36, 730, 732 Park 491 Chiricahua National Coca-Cola 407 dance 1152 Crystal Coast 352-3 Monument 869 Cody 791-2 dangers, see safety Kailua-Kona 1114 Chrysler Building 90 coffee 64-5 Daniel Boone National Key West 498 churches & cathedrals Coit Tower 978 Forest 405-6 Monterey Bay 973 Anthony Chapel 440 colonialism 1128 Dardanelle 441 San Diego-La Jolla Cathedral Church of St Colorado 752-85, 750-1 Dartmouth College 254 Underwater Park 950 John the Divine 100 Colorado River 859, 631 Davenport 662 Waikiki 1110-11 El Santuario de Colorado Springs 776-7 Davis Mountains 741-2 Dodge City 691 Chimayó 903 Colosseum 821 Dayton 580 dogsledding 625 First EbenezerBaptist Columbia River Daytona Beach 502-3 Dolly Sods Wilderness 339 Church 411 Gorge 1071-2 Dead Horse Point State Door County 611-12 Full Gospel Tabernacle Columbia State Historic Park 884 Church 381 Douglas 596-7 Park 1015 Deadwood 675-6 Glide Memorial United Dover 310-12 Columbus (Indiana) 569-70 Dean, James 567 Methodist Church 977 drinking 63-5, see also Columbus (Ohio) 578-9 Dearborn 591-2 Grace Cathedral 981 individual locations Columbus, Christopher Death Valley National Park Mission Basilica San Dubuque 664-5 1127 639, 962-3, 639 Diego de Alcalá 950 dude ranches 716 Concord 206-7 DeLand 523 Mission Dolores 985 Duke University 356 Coney Island 101 Delaware 307-12 Mission San Carlos Duluth 622-3 Borromeo de Connecticut 228-35 Delaware Water Gap 161 Dunsmuir 1016 Carmelo 972 consulates 1165 Democrats 1142 Duquesne Incline 180 Old Mission Santa Coral Castle 491 Denver 753-62, 754-5 Durango 783-4 Barbara 963 Corn Palace 671 accommodations 756-7 Durango & Silverton Old North Church 192 Cornucopia 613 activities 753-6 Narrow Gauge Railroad Corolla 345, 348 drinking & nightlife 783 Corpus Christi 726-7 758-9 Durham 356-7 Map Pages 000 country music 1156 entertainment 759-60 Dylan, Bob 623 Photo Pages 000 covered bridges 661 festivals & events 756 1195 E Fayetteville 342-3 Fort Worth Herd 736 Grand Canyon of the Earthships 903 Fenway Park 197 fountains 656 Yellowstone 793-4 East Bay 227-8 Ferry Building 977 Fountains of Bellagio 821 Grand Coulee Dam 1056 East Lansing 592-3 festivals 34-7 Franconia Notch State Park Grandfather Mountain Eastern Panhandle 337-9 Fifth Avenue 91 251-2 361-2 Eastern Shore 303-4 film 1146 Franklin 389 Grand Haven 595 Eastern State Penitentiary film studios 927 Frederick 306-7 Grand Island 682-3 INDEX 170-1 Finger Lakes 149-51 Fredericksburg (North Grand Prismatic Spring Eau Claire 610 Fire Island National Virginia) 316-18 793, 634-5 economy 1139-14 Seashore 138 Fredericksburg (Texas) Grand Rapids 593-5  E-G 713-15 Grand Staircase-Escalante

 Edgar Allan Poe National Historic Site 171-2 Bodega Bay 1008 Freedom Trail 198, 199 National Monument Edisto Island 373 John Day River 1083 Friedan, Betty 1136 886 Front Royal 329-30 Grand Teton National Park Edmund Pettus Bridge Flagstaff 847-50, 848 797-801, 798, 40 429-30 Flaming Gorge National Great Barrington 219-20 El Capitan 1018 Recreation Area 880 G El Morro National Flatiron Building 84 Galax 336 Great Basin 834 Monument 894 floods 1160 Galena 561-2 Great Lakes 102, 528-626, 530-1 El Paso 745-7 Florida 102, 464-527, Gallatin Valley 801-3 accommodations 528 Eldon 663 466-7 galleries, see art museums electricity 1165 accommodations 464 & galleries climate 528 Ellis Island 75 climate 464 Galveston Island 724-6 food 528 embassies 1165 food 464 Gamble House 927 highlights 530 Emerald Mound 436 highlights 466-7 gardens, see parks & history 529 emergencies 23 travel seasons 464 gardens itineraries 547 Empire Mine State Historic Florida City 491-2 Garnet Ghost Town 805 travel seasons 528 Park 1014 Florida Keys 494-500 Gatlinburg 397-8 Great Lakes (Iowa) 665-6 Empire State Building 85-7 Florida Panhandle 523-7 gay travelers, see LGBTIQ+ Great Plains 103, 641-96, Empire State Plaza 152 Floyd 335-6 travelers 642-3 Enchanted Hwy 669 Flume Gorge 252 General Sherman Tree accommodations 641 1023 endangered species 1162 folk music 1156 climate 641 Endless Bridge 615 geography 1158-9 food 31, 57-63, 1165, 33, food 641 Georgetown 259 environmental issues 61, see also individual highlights 642-3 1161-2 Georgetown University 281 locations itineraries 644 Erie Islands 576-7 Georgia 406-26 barbecue 58, 657, 707 travel seasons 641 Escalante 886-7 Georgia O’Keeffe Welcome crabs 302 Great River Road 48, 667 Essex 232-3 Center 901 etiquette 62 Great Sand Dunes National Estes Park 767-8 Getty Villa 924-5 fish fry 605 Park 784-5 etiquette 25 ghost towns food trucks 723, 33 Great Smoky Mountains Garnet Ghost Town 805 food 62 local specialties 59-60, National Park 20, 366-7, Mormon Row 797 Eugene 1070-1 649 633, 20, 631, 632 Eunice 462-3 Mexican 58 Rhyolite 964 Green Bay 610-11 Gila Cliff Dwellings Eureka 1011 opening hours 62 Green County 607 National Monument Eureka Springs 443-4 Philadelphia cheese- 909 Green River 880 events 34-7 steak 176 Glacier National Park 19, Greenbrier Valley 341-3 Everglades 16, 490-1, 16 pizza 551 635, 807-10, 19 Greenport 141-2 Everglades City 493-4 Sonoran hotdogs 868 Glacier Point 1018 Greenville 377-8 Everglades National Park supper clubs 605 Going-to-the-Sun Road Griffith Observatory 922 490, 633, 632 Tex-Mex 58 808 grunge music 1042 exchange rates 23 vegetarian 27, 58 Gold Coast 21, 595-9, 21 Guadalupe River 715 Exorcist Stairs 281 food carts 1066 Gold Country 1014-15 Gulf Coast (Mexico) 723-9 food trucks 723, 33 Golden Gate Bridge 981, 2 Gulf Coast (Mississippi) football 1141 F Golden Isles 424-6 437 Forks 1049 Fairbanks 1102-4 Gorda 970 Gulf Islands National Fort Davis 741-2 Fairmount 567 Graceland 379 Seashore 526 Fort Lauderdale 482-6 Falmouth 208-9 Grand Canyon National Gullah culture 370 Fargo 666-8 Fort Mackinac 600 Park 14, 636, 851-9, Guthrie 694-5 Farmington 905 Fort Macon 352 854-5, 14, 627, 631, Faulkner, William 432 Fort Worth 736-9, 730 636 1196 H Borrego Palm Canyon New River Gorge Cahokia Mounds State Haight Street 985 Nature Trail 960 National River 341 Historic Site 564 Haines 1097-8 Camelback Mountain Olympia National Park Carillon Historical Park 837 1046-7 580 Haleakalā National Park Canyonlands National Olympic Discovery Trail Chapin Mesa 782 1122, 640 Park 884 1048 Hamakua Coast 1117-18 Chrysler Building 90

INDEX INDEX Cape Perpetua Scenic Petit Jean State Park 441 Hamptons, the 139-40 Colonial Michilimackinac Area 1080 Petroglyph National 600 Hanalei Bay 1123-4 Chilkoot Trail 1099 Monument 891 Dallas Heritage Village Hanauma Bay 1113 Chiricahua National Pictograph Trail 960 731 H  hang-gliding 349 Monument 869 Portland 1063 Dana Thomas House 562 Hannibal 651 Crawford Notch State Ridge to Rivers Trail Dealey Plaza & the Hanover 254 Park 252 System 811 Grassy Knoll 731 Harbor Country 597 Death Canyon Trail 798 Saguaro National Park Delta-09 Missile Silo 671 Harpers Ferry 337-8 Denver 757 866-7 Dexter Avenue Parson- Hartford 228-30 Eagle Cap Wilderness Santa Fe 895 age 428 Harvard University 197 1084 Sequoia National Park Ellwood Manor 316-17 Havasupai Canyon 859-60 Franconia Notch State 1021 Elms, the 225 Park 252 Hawaii 104, 1105-12, 1106 Shenandoah National Embassy Row 280 accommodations 1105 Galena Creek Recreation Park 330 Empire State Building Area 832 climate 1105 Sleeping Bear Dunes 85-7 George S Mickelson National Lakeshore Faneuil Hall 189, 192 food 1105 Trail 677 597 Flatiron Building 84 highlights 1106 Grand Canyon National South Rim Trail 796 itineraries 1107 Park 853, 858 Fort Davis National Standish-Hickey State Historic Site 742 travel seasons 1105 Grand Teton 1010 Hawaiʻi (the Big Island) Park 797, 798-9 Fort Gibson Historic Superior Hiking Trail 624 Site 695 1113-12 Great Smoky Mountains Tamiami Trail 492-3 Fort Raleigh National Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National National Park 366 Taos 902 Park 1119-12 Historic Site 348 Haleakalā National Park Tuckerman Ravine 253 Healdsburg 1006-8 1122 Fort Seward 1097 Tuolumne Meadows 1018 health 1165-6 Highline Trail 808 Fort Sumter National Whitefish 806 Monument 369 Hearst Castle 969 Horseshoe Bend 860 Yellowstone National Franklin D Roosevelt Heceta Head Lighthouse Indian Canyons 956 Park 795 Home 145 1080 Joshua Tree National Yosemite National Park Graycliff Estate 157 Helena 803-5 Park 958-9 1018 Hildene 238 Hells Canyon 1084 Kings Canyon National Zion National Park 888 Park 1021 Historic RCA Studio Hemingway, Ernest 599 Hill City 677 B 388 Lake Powell 860 Henry Miller Memorial Hill Country 712 Independence Hall 167 Library 970 Lake Tahoe 1025 Hilo 1118-19 Jerome State Historic High Country 361-3 Los Angeles 928 Hilton Head 374-5 Park 844 High Roller 824 Maidenhair Falls Trail 960 hip-hop 1157 Lewis and Clark National hiking 49-50, 51 Marin Headlands 1001 Hiram M Chittenden Locks Historical Park 1077 Abingdon 335 Mesa Verde National 1036 Lincoln Historic Site 911 Park 782 Albuquerque 891 historic buildings & sites Lincoln Home National Methow Valley 1054 Appalachian Trail 330 Alamo, the 709 Historic Site 562 Moab 881 Arches National Park Audrey Headframe Little Bighorn Battlefield 883 Mojave National Park 844 National Monument Preserve 961 804 Avalanche Lake Trail Audubon State Historic 808-9 Monongahela National Site 459 Little Rock Central High Forest 339 School 438 Big Bend National Park Battleship North Caro- 739 Monument Mountain 219 lina 353 Mammoth Site 678 Big Bluff 444 Mount Sentinel 805 Big Pink 149 Manzanar National Historic Site 1024 Blackwater Falls State Mt Baker 1053 Biltmore Estate 363 Park 339 Martin House Complex Mt Hood 1073 Breakers, the 225 Blue Ridge Pkwy 334 Mt Magazine State 156-7 Brown v Board of Educa- Martin Luther King Jr Park 441 tion National Historic Mt Nebo State Park 441 National Historic Site 688 Site 410 Mt Rainier National Park Buffalo Bill Ranch State 1056-7 Maryland State House Map Pages 000 Historical Park 683 301 Photo Pages 000 Mt Tamalpais State Park Cable Car Museum 981 1001 1197 Monterey State Historic historical parks, see na- Qua Baths & Spa 825 425-6 Park 972 tional parks & historical Strawberry Park Hot Jenner 1009 Monticello 326 parks Springs 768 Jerome 844 Montpelier 327 history 1126-37 Sycamore Mineral Jersey Shore 162-7 Mount Vernon 314 African American 1133 Springs 967 John Day Fossil Beds New York State Capitol American Revolution Houston 716-22, 718-19 National Monument

152 1128-9 Hovenweep National 1083 INDEX Old Exchange & Provost Arizona 834-5 Monument 885 Johns Hopkins University Dungeon 368 Boston Tea Party 196 Hualapai Reservation 860 298 Old South Meeting California 916 Johnson, Lyndon Baines

Hudson Valley 143-6  H-K House (Boston) 189 Civil Rights movement Hudson Yards 27 701  Old State House 1132-4 Huntsville 427 Juneau 1095-7 (Boston) 189 Civil War 315, 1130-1 hurricanes 1160 Old Town San Diego colonialism 1128 Hwy 12 Scenic Byway 888 K State Historic Park Great Depression 1131 949-50 Hyannis 209-10 Kailua 1113 Native American 1126-7, Kailua-Kona 1114-15 Palace of the Governors 1143 & New Mexico History Kanab 887-8 New Deal 1131 I Museum 899 Kancamagus Hwy 250 New Mexico 889-90 ice skating 103, 169, 543 Parthenon 388 Kansas 685-9 1030 Idaho 810-15 Pentagon 313 Illinois 529-64 Kansas City 655-8 Petersen House 279 Rocky Mountains 749, 752 immigration 1138, 1175 Kartchner Caverns State Pioneer Museum 714 Park 868 slavery 1133 Independence 658-9 Pope-Leighey House 314 Katy Trail 733 Southwest 817 Independence Day 34 Radio City Music Hall 91 Kaua’i 1122-4 Trump presidency 1137 Indiana 564-72 Riordan Mansion State kayaking & canoeing 53, Tulsa 694 Indiana Dunes 570-1 Historic Park 847 631, 638 Utah 869-70 Indiana University 568 Robie House 541 Amelia Island 507-8 Hoboken 160 Indianapolis 564-7 Rockefeller Center 87, 90 Apostle Islands 613 Hoh River Rainforest 1046 Institute Woods 160-1 Rocket Park 723 Austin 701 holidays 1169 insurance 1166 Rough Point 225 Bellingham 1049-50 Hollywood Forever car 1182-3 San Juan Island National Boundary Waters 625 Cemetery 922 health 1166 Historical Park 1051 Buffalo National River Hollywood sign 921 internet access 1166-7 Saxman Native Village & 444 Hollywood Walk of Fame internet resources 1168 Totem Park 1101 Charlotte 359 921 ʻIolani Palace 1108 Sitka National Historical Chicago 543-4 Park 1093 Homestead 491-2 Iowa 659-66 Cincinnati 581 Stockyards (Fort Worth) Honolulu 1107-11 Iowa City 662-3 Clarksdale 433 736 Hood River 1071-2 Iowa State Fair 660 Everglades 492, 493 Supreme Court 277 Hoover Dam 831 Islamorada 495-6 Galveston Island 725 This is the Place Hopewell people 584 Isle of Palms 373 Glacier Bay National Heritage Park 871-2 Hopi Reservation 861 Ithaca 150-1 Ulysses S Grant Home Park 1100 horseback riding 56 itineraries 38-42, 38, 39, 561 Jenner 1009 Fort Lauderdale 484 , see also individ- 41 42 Key Largo 495 US Capitol 276-7 Mesa 837 ual locations Lake Powell 860 Vicksburg National Silver Spur Guest Ranch New Jersey 168 Military Park 434 Lake Tahoe 1026 715-16 New York State 168 Virginia State Capitol Las Vegas 825 horses 403 Pennsylvania 168 324 Hot Springs 439-40, 678-9 Lexington 332 Washington Irving’s hot springs & spas Little Rock 438 Sunnyside 144 Esalen Institute Hot J Logan 583-4 Washita Battlefield Jackson (Mississippi) Springs 970 Mendocino 1009 National Historic 434-6 Finnish Country Sauna & Monterey Bay 973 Site 691 Jackson (Rocky Tubs 1011 Ocracoke Island 351 Wetherill Mesa 782 Mountains), 789-91 Grand Prismatic Spring Ozarks, the 653 White House 278 Jackson, Andrew 1130 793 Pictured Rocks National Wilson’s Creek National Jacksonville 505-7, 1083 Ojo Caliente Mineral Lakeshore 601 Battlefield 652 James Island 373 Springs Resort & Spa Portland 1063 Winterthur 310 Jamesport 141 901-2 San Diego 951 Wormsloe Historic Site Orr Hot Springs 1012 Jamestown 319-20 420 Seattle 1037 Ouray Hot Springs 778 jazz music 1155-6 Historic Triangle 318-21 St Simons Island 424 1198 kayaking & canoeing Laramie 787-8 Fire Island Lighthouse itineraries 921 continued Las Cruces 907-8 138 Long Beach 926, 931, Tarpon Bay 514 Las Vegas 20, 820-31, Horton Point Lighthouse 936, 938 Valentine 684 822, 20 142 Malibu 924-5 Kayenta-Monument Valley accommodations 826-7 Montauk Lighthouse 141 Pasadena 926-7, 931-2, 844 drinking & nightlife Ocracoke Lighthouse 351 936, 939-40

INDEX INDEX Kearney 682 828-9 Point Arena Lighthouse Santa Monica 925-6, 931, Kelleys Island 576-7 entertainment 829-30 1009 935-6, 937-8, 934 Kentucky 398-406 food 827-8 Point Bonita Lighthouse shopping 939-40 1001

K-M Ketchikan 1101-2 sights 820-5 sights 916-27  Portland Head Light 257 Ketchum 812-14 Las Vegas (New Mexico) tourist information 940 Keweenaw Peninsula 602 900-1 Rockland Breakwater tours 929  Lighthouse 260 Key Largo 494-5 Lava Beds National travel to/from 940-1 Sandy Hook 164 Key West 497-500 Monument 1016-17 travel within 941 Saugerties Lighthouse Lawrence 687 Venice 926, 936, Kiawah Island 373 149 934 Lead 676-7 West Hollywood 922-3, Kidron 577 Split Rock Lighthouse Leavenworth 1053 930-1, 935, 937, 939, Kihei 1121-2 624 Leesburg 317 932-3 King, BB 433 Umpqua Lighthouse King, Martin Luther Jr 269, legal matters 1167 1080-1 Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum 920 379, 410, 411, 428 Leggett 1010 Lihuʻe 1123 Lost Coast 1010 Kingman 862-3 lemurs 356 Lincoln (Nebraska) 681-2 Louisiana 444-63 Kings Canyon National Lenox 220-1 Lincoln (New England) 251, Louisville 399-402 Park 1020-2 lesbian travelers, see Lincoln (New Mexico) 911 LGBTIQ+ travelers Lowcountry 373-5 Kinzua Bridge Skywalk Lincoln, Abraham 1130-1 179-80 Lewes 308 Lowell Observatory 847 childhood home 570 kiteboarding 349 Lewis & Clark 1077 Lower Keys 497 Lincoln Center 97 Kitt Peak National Lexington 206, 331-3, 403-4 Luckenbach 713 Lincoln Memorial 265 Observatory 867 LGBTIQ+ travelers 707, 937, Luray 329-30 Litchfield Hills 230-1 Knoxville 396-7 1167-8 Literature 1147-9 Kodiak Island 1090 Alaska 1089 Little Bighorn Battlefield Kohala Mountain Road 1119 Atlanta 415 M National Monument Mackinac Island 600 Kona Coffee Living History Boston 203 804 Mackinaw City 600 Farm 1115 Chicago 557 Little Rock 437-9 Mad River Valley 240-1 Fort Lauderdale 485 live music 32-3, 829 Madison 608-9 Hawaii 1108 L Lloyd Wright, Frank 314 Madison County 661 Miami 481 Lafayette 460-1 Lockhart 707 magazines 1172 Lahaina 1120-1 Minneapolis 618 Logan 583-4 Maine 254-63, 256 1054 New Orleans 456 Lombard Street 981 Mammoth Lakes 1023 San Francisco 997 Lake Crescent 1046, 638 Lompoc 966 Mamou 462 Washington, DC 291 Lake George 153-4 Lone Pine 1024 Manassas National Battle- Lake Martin 462 Liberty Bell Center 169 Long Island 137-43 field Park 315 Lake Mead 831 libraries Lookout Mountain 395 manatees 509-10 Lake of the Clouds 603 Boston Public Library Lopez Island 1052 Manchester 246-7 197 Lake Placid 154-5 Los Alamos 901 Manitou Islands 597 Folger Shakespeare Lake Pontchartrain 458 Los Angeles 14, 916-41, Library 278 Marathon 496-7 Lake Powell 860 918-19, 924-5, 14 Latter Library 447 Mardi Gras 34, 451 Lake Quinault 1046 accommodations 929 Library of Congress 277 Marfa 742-4 Lake Superior 623 activities 927-9 New York Public Library Marin County 1001-2 Lake Tahoe 1024-6 87 Beverly Hills 923, 931, Marin Headlands 1001 937 Lakes Region (New Newberry Library 539 markets England) 248 Downtown 917-20, 929- Ann Arbor 592 Providence Athenaeum 30, 932-4, 936, 939 Lander 788-9 223 Boston 204-5 drinking & nightlife language Boulder County Farmers lighthouses 936-8 Hawaii 1107 Market 763 Bodie Island Lighthouse entertainment 938-9 Lansing 592-3 348 Burlington 243-4 festivals & events 929 Cape Hatteras Chatham 211-12 food 932-6 Lighthouse 349 Chicago 540 Hollywood 921-2, 930, Map Pages 000 Cape May Lighthouse Chinatown Markets 934-5, 936-7, 1146, Photo Pages 000 166 1108 928 1199 Des Moines Downtown children, travel with 475 Civil Rights Memorial Telluride 780 Farmers Market 661 drinking & nightlife 480-1 Center 429 Yellowstone National Detroit 585 entertainment 481-2 Fort McHenry National Park 795 Freight House Farmers festivals & events 477-8 Monument & Historic mountain climbing 771 Shrine 297 Market 662 food 479-80 Mountain View 442-3 Grand Central Market Franklin Delano Roo- Mt Airy 306-7 history 465 sevelt Memorial 276 932-3 Mt Baker 1053 INDEX itineraries 469 George Washington Liberty Public Market Mt Baldhead 596 950 LGBTIQ+ travelers 481 Masonic National Mt Hood 1072-3 Madison 608 safety 482 Memorial 315 Mt Hood Railroad 1071  M New Orleans 450 sights 465-75 Jefferson Memorial 272-3 Mt Monadnock 247 New York City 81-2, tourist offices 482 85, 114 tours 477 Kunta Kinte-Alex Haley Mt Rainier National Park Memorial 301 1056-7 Olympia Farmers Market travel to/from 482 1045 travel within 482 Lincoln Memorial 265 Mt Rushmore 676 Lost at Sea Memorial 141 Mt Shasta City 1016 Original Farmers Market walking tours 476, 476 Martin Luther King Jr Mt St Helens National Vol- (Los Angeles) 935 Michigan 584-603, 21 Memorial 269 canic Monument 1057 Pike Place Market Middleburg 317 Memorial 79 Mt Tremper 147-8 1032, 18 Milk, Harvey 1136 National Memorial for Mt Vernon 664 Bowl Flea Market Millersburg 577 939-40 Peace & Justice 428-9 Muir Woods National Million Dollar Highway 778 Santa Monica Farmers National September 11 Monument 1001 Markets 935-6 Milwaukee 603-6 National WWII Mulholland Dr 930 Saturday Market Minneapolis 614-20, 616-17 Memorial 273 multiculturalism 1138 (Eugene) 1070 Minnesota 614-26 Pilgrim Monument 213 Multnomah Falls 1071 Saturday Market (Port- Minute Man National Stonewall National museums 33 land) 1061 Historic Park 206 Monument 83 4-H Tidelands Nature Marquette 602 Mirage Volcano 824 Strawberry Fields 97 Center 425 Marshall Gold Discovery Mission Bay 947 Vietnam Veterans Acadian Village 460 State Historic Park 1014 Mission San Juan Memorial 268-9 Adler Planetarium 535 Martha’s Vineyard 216-17, Capistrano 944 Washington Monument Air Mobility Command 211 Mission San Xavier del (Baltimore) 297 Museum 311 Maryland 294-307 Bac 867 Washington Monument Akta Lakota Museum & Mashomack Nature Mississippi 431-7 (Washington, DC) 269 Cultural Center 670 Preserve 142 Mississippi Delta 432-4 Wright Brothers National Alaska Aviation Heritage Massachusetts 185-222 Missoula 805-6 Memorial 348 Museum 1088 Massachusetts Institute of Missouri 645-59 Monument Valley Navajo Alaska State Museum Technology 199 Mitchell, Margaret 410 Tribal Park 862, 7 1095 Massachusetts State Moab 881-3 Mooney Falls 636 Albuquerque Museum House 188 Mobile 430-1 Morehead City 352 890 Maui 1120-2 mobile phones 22, 1170 Mormon Row 797 Amana Heritage Museum 663 Mauna Kea 1116-17 144 Mormon Tabernacle Choir 874 Amazing World of Dr Mayflower II 208 Mojave National Preserve Seuss 218 McDonald Observatory 741 961 Morrilton 441 American Black Holo- measures 1172 money 23, 1165, 1168 Morro Bay 968-9 caust Museum 604 medical services 940, 1166 Mono Lake 1023 motorcycle travel 1176, 1183 Medicine Park 695 Monongahela Incline 180 Mount Desert Island 262 Museum – memorials, see monu- Monongahela National Appomattox 329 ments & memorials Mount Vernon 314 Forest 339-41 American International mountain biking 52, see Memphis 378-85, 380, Montana 800-10 Rattlesnake Museum also bicycling 382 Montauk 140-1 890 Albuquerque 891 Mendenhall Glacier 1095 Monterey 972-4 American Museum of Bend 1074 Mendocino 1009-10 Montgomery 428-9 Natural History 96-7 Cloudcroft 910 Meow Wolf 895 Montpelier 241-2 American Revolution Crested Butte 777 Museum at Yorktown Mesa Verde National Park monuments & memorials Flagstaff 847 320 19, 635, 782-3, 19, 634 African American Civil Anasazi State Park Methow Valley 1054 War Memorial 279-80 Lake Tahoe 1026 Museum 886 Miami 20, 465-82, 470, Bennington Battle Leavenworth 1053 Anchorage Museum 472, 20 Monument 237-8 Mesa 837 1088 accommodations 478-9 Bunker Hill Monument Moab 881 Arizona Museum of 193 Santa Fe 895 activities 475, 477 Natural History 837 1200 museums continued Center for Puppetry Exploration Place 686 Harriet Beecher-Stowe Arizona State Museum Arts 407 Exploratorium 977-8 Center 229 863-4 Chapin Mesa Museum Fernbank Museum of Hatfield Marine Science Arizona-Sonora Desert 782 Natural History 407 Center 1079 Museum 863 Charleston Museum 369 Field Museum of Natural Heard Museum 836 Art Deco Museum 468 Chatham Shark Center History 535 Hemingway House 498

INDEX INDEX Auburn Cord Duesen- 210-11 Five Civilized Tribes Henry Ford Museum 591 berg Museum 572 Chicago Architecture Museum 696 Herbert Hoover National Automotive Hall of Center 533 Fleet Science Center 948 Historic Site 662-3 Fame 591 Chicago Children’s Florida Keys History of High Desert Museum 1074 M  Autry Museum of the Museum 544 Diving Museum 496 Historic New Orleans American West 922 Chicago History Museum Ford Piquette Avenue Collection 446 Backstreet Cultural 540 Plant 587 Historic Tredegar 324 Museum 446-7 Chicago Sports Museum Ford Rouge Factory Tour Historic Village at Allaire Battleship Iowa 926 539-40 591-2 162 BB King Museum and Children’s Museum Den- Ford’s Theatre Center for History Colorado Center Delta Interpretive ver Marisco Campus Education & 756 753-4 Center 433 Leadership 279 HistoryMiami 469 Children’s Museum of Beat Museum 981 Fort Walla Walla Museum Hollywood Museum 922 Benjamin Franklin Indianapolis 565 1058 Church History Museum Houston Museum of Museum 169 Fort William Henry Natural Science 717 Birmingham Civil Rights 871 Museum 153 City Museum (St Louis) Hubbard Museum of the Institute 426 Francis Ford Coppola American West 910 Bishop Museum 1108 645 Winery 1007 Clark Planetarium 871 Huntington Library, Art Blair-Caldwell African Frank Lloyd Wright Home Collections & Botani- American Museum College Football Hall of & Studio 560 cal Gardens 927 Fame 407 756 Franklin D Roosevelt Idaho State Museum 811 Bob Bullock Texas State Columbia River Maritime Home 145 Museum 1077 Illinois Holocaust History Museum 701 Freedom House Museum Museum 560 Concord Museum 207 314-15 Border Patrol Museum ʻImiloa Astronomy 746 Connecticut Science Frontier Days Old West Center of Hawaiʻi 1118 Center 229 Museum 785-6 Boston Tea Party Ships & Immigration Museum 75 Museum 196 Contemporary Jewish Frontier Times Museum Museum 977 715 Indian Pueblo Cultural Bradbury Science Center 890 Museum 901 COSI 578 Geological Museum 787 Indianapolis Motor Brooklyn Museum 101 Cosmosphere 687 Gerald R Ford Museum Speedway 565 593 Bryan Museum 724 Country Music Hall of International Spy Buffalo Bill Center of the Fame & Museum 387 Getty Villa 924-5 Museum 279 West 791-2 Courthouse Museum 911 Gilcrease Museum 693 International UFO Burke Museum 1036 Dallas Holocaust Gilmore Car Museum Museum & Research Busy Beaver Button & Human Rights 591 Center 912 Museum 541 Museum 27 GLBT History Museum James Monroe Museum Cabildo 446 Delta Blues Museum 433 997 & Memorial Library 317 Cable Car Museum 981 Denver Museum of Na- Glore Psychiatric Japanese American California Academy of ture & Science 756 Museum 659 National Museum 919 Sciences 986 Discovery 832 Gold Coast Railroad Jewish Museum 92-3 California Museum 1013 Driehaus Museum 538 Museum 475 John Dickinson California Science Dumbarton 281 Grammy Museum 919 Plantation 311 Center 921 Durham Museum 679-80 Grand Ole Opry House John F Kennedy Hyannis Carnegie Museum of DuSable Museum of 388 Museum 209 Natural History 181 African American Graveyard of the Atlantic John Wesley Powell River Carolina Basketball History 541 Museum 349 History Museum 880 Museum 358 East Hampton Town Great Lakes Science Johnny Cash Museum & Center for Civil & Human Marine Museum 139 Center 573 Store 388 Rights 406-7 El Paso Holocaust Green Bay Packers Hall Junípero Serra Museum Center for PostNatural Museum 745 of Fame 611 950 History 181 Emily Dickinson Museum Greenfield Village 591 Kennedy Space Center 219 Gulf Coast Exploreum 500 Empire State Railway 430-1 Kentucky Derby Museum Museum 147 Hammond Harwood 399 Map Pages 000 Eudora Welty House 435 House 301 Klondike Gold Rush Photo Pages 000 Evergreen Museum 298 Harley-Davidson National Historical Museum 604 Park 1033 1201 Klondike Gold Rush Mexican Cultural Musical Instrument National Toy Train National Historical Institute 280 Museum 836 Museum 178-9 Park Museum & Visitor Miami Children’s Mütter Museum 168-9 National Underground Center 1098 Museum 475 Mystic Seaport Museum Railroad Freedom Museum Military Museum 1077 231 Center 581 & Library 565 Millicent Rogers Museum Nantucket Whaling National Women’s Hall of La Brea Tar Pits & Fame 151

902 Museum 215 INDEX Museum 923 Millyard Museum 246 NASCAR Hall of Fame 359 National WWII Museum LA Plaza 919-20 Mini Time Machine of National Air & Space 451 Landis Valley Museum Museum of Miniatures Museum 265, 268 National WWI Museum M  179 867 National Archives 278-9 655-6 Levine Museum of the Mint Museum Randolph National Atomic Testing Natural History Museum New South 359 359 Museum 825 of Los Angeles 921 Lewis & Clark Boat Mississippi Civil Rights National Automobile Natural History Museum House & Museum 651 Museum 434 Museum 832 of Utah 871 Lewis & Clark Interpre- Missouri History National Automotive and Nauticus 321 tive Center 661 Museum 647 Truck Museum 572 Naval Station Norfolk Lightner Museum 504 Mob Museum 824 National Blues Museum 321 Lincoln Children’s Moraine Park Discovery 646 Nebraska History Museum 681 Center 766 National Civil Rights Museum 681 Lincoln Presidential Motown Historical Museum 379 Negro Leagues Baseball Library & Museum 562 Museum 587 National Cowboy & Museum 655 Little Traverse History MOXI 964 Western Heritage Neon Museum – Neon Museum 599 Muhammad Ali Center Museum 689 Boneyard 824-5 Lone Star Museum 399 National Geographic New Mexico Farm & 717 Museum of Ancient Museum 280 Ranch Heritage Los Alamos Historical Life 873 National Great Blacks in Museum 907-8 Museum 901 Museum of Art & History Wax Museum 296 New Mexico Museum of Louisiana Children’s at the Custom House National Hall of Fame Space History 910 Museum 447 497 for Famous American New York State Museum Louisville Slugger Mu- Museum of Discovery & Indians 695 152 seum & Factory 399 Science 483 National Mississippi Newseum 279 Lower East Side Tene- Museum of Indian Arts & River Museum & North Carolina Maritime ment Museum 83 Culture 899 Aquarium 665 Museum 352 Lower Mississippi River Museum of Mississippi National Museum of Afri- North Carolina Museum Museum 434 History 435 can American History of History 355 Lowndes County Inter- Museum of New Mexico & Culture 269 North Carolina Museum pretive Center 430 899 National Museum of of Natural Sciences Lyndon Baines Johnson Museum of Northern American History 272 355 (LBJ) Library & Arizona 847 National Museum of Civil North Dakota Heritage Museum 701 War Medicine 306 Center 668 Maine Maritime Museum 1033 National Museum of Nat- Northwest Museum of 259 Museum of Science 192 ural History 269, 272 Arts & Culture 1055 Makah Museum 1048-9 Museum of Science National Museum of the O. Winston Link Museum Margaret Mitchell House & History (Corpus American Indian 276 333-4 & Museum 410 Christi) 726-7 National Museum of the Ocean City Life-Saving Marine Educational Museum of Science & Pacific War 714 Station Museum 304 Center 1113 Industry 541 National Museum of the Oklahoma City National Maritime Museum 945 Museum of the African US Air Force 580 Memorial & Museum Mark Twain Boyhood Diaspora 977 National Mustard 689 Home & Museum 651 Museum of the American Museum 608 Oklahoma Jazz Hall of Mark Twain House & Revolution 168 National Naval Aviation Fame 693 Museum 229 Museum of the Big Museum 526 Old Cowtown Museum Martínez Hacienda Bend 744 National Railroad 686 902-3 Museum of the Bizarre Museum 611 Old 159 Maryland Historical 353 National Route 66 Old Rhinebeck Society 297 Museum of the Museum 692 Aerodrome 146 Maryland Science Center Everglades 493 National Scouting Old Slave Mart Museum 296 Museum of the Rockies Museum 906 368 Memphis Rock ’n’ Soul 801 National September 11 Oregon Historical Museum 379 Museum of the Weird 701 Memorial Museum 79 Society 1059 Meow Wolf 895 Museum of Tolerance National Sporting Osborn-Jackson House Met Cloisters 97 923 Museum 317 139 1202 museums continued Shaker Village of Pleas- Turtle Bay Exploration Muskogee 695-6 Oscar Getz Museum of ant Hill 405 Park 1015 Myrtle Beach 375-7 Whiskey History 400 Sharlot Hall Museum Union Pacific Railroad Mystic 231-2 843 Museum 679 1038 Shore Line Trolley Holocaust Pacific Tsunami Museum Museum 234 Memorial Museum 277 N Nader, Ralph 1136

INDEX INDEX 1118 Sitka Sound Science University of Alaska Palace of the Governors Center 1093 Museum of the North Nantucket 214-16, 211 & New Mexico History Sixth Floor Museum 731 1102 Napa Valley 1004-5 Museum 899 Skagway Museum 1098 US Space & Rocket Naples 514-16 M-N  Parris Island Museum Slave Haven Under- Center 427 NASCAR Racing 375 USS Alabama 430 ground Railroad Experience 502  Patricia & Phillip Frost Museum/Burkle USS Constitution Nashville (Indiana) 568-9 Museum of Science Estate 381 Museum 193 Nashville (Tennessee) 385- 471 Smokejumper Visitor USS Lexington Museum 94, 386-7 Peabody Essex Museum Center 805 726 Natchez 436-7 207 Songbirds 394-5 USS Midway Museum Natchez Trace Pkwy 436 Peggy Notebaert Nature South Dakota Cultural 945, 947 National Archives 278-9 Museum 544 Heritage Center 670 Utah Field House of National Cherry Blossom Penn Center 375 South Florida Science Natural History State Festival 34 Pima Air & Space Center & Aquarium Park Museum 879 Museum 864 488 Vermilionville 460 National Mall 12, 265, 268-9, 272-6, , Pioneer Museum 714 Southampton History Villa Zorayda Museum 274-5 12, 274, 275 Plains Indian Museum Museum 139 504 792 Southeast Alaska Discov- Vizcaya Museum & national parks & historical parks 627-40, 1162 Plimoth Plantation 207-8 ery Center 1101 Gardens 474 Acadia National Park 12, Poe Museum 324 Southern Plains Indian White House Visitor 261-2, 633, 13, 633 Pollock-Krasner House Museum 695 Center 278 Appomattox Court 139 Space Center Houston White Sands Missile Test 722-3 Center Museum 908 House National Port Discovery 296 Historic Park 328 Spam Museum 621 Will Rogers Memorial Portland Children’s Arches National Park St Louis Science Center Museum 692 Museum 1062 636, 883, , 647 William J Clinton Presi- 630-1 637 Prairie Acadian Cultural Badlands National Park Center 463 Stax Museum of Ameri- dential Center 438 can Soul Music 379 Willie Dixon’s Blues 635, 671, 674-5 Railroad Museum of Bears Ears National Pennsylvania 178 Steven F Udvar-Hazy Heaven 539 Center 268 Willie Nelson & Friends Monument 879 RE Olds Transportation Big Bend National Park Museum 591 Story of Wounded Museum Showcase Knee 671 388-9 739-40 Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Biscayne National 164-5 Strategic Air Command Wing Luke Museum & Aerospace Museum of the Asian Pacific Park 491 River Road African Amer- American Experience Bryce Canyon National ican Museum 459 680 Strawbery Banke 1033 Park 636, 887 Rock and Roll Hall of Witte Museum 709 C&O Canal National Fame & Museum 573 Museum 247 Studebaker National Wo Hing Museum 1120-1 Historic Park 307 Sag Harbor Whaling & Canaveral National Historical Museum 139 Museum 572 Women’s Basketball Hall Surfing Museum 944 of Fame 396 Seashore 501 San Diego Air & Space Canyonlands National Museum 949 Tallahassee Automobile Women’s Rights National & Collectibles Museum Historical Park 151 Park 883-4 San Diego Natural His- Capitol Reef National tory Museum 949 523-4 Woodrow Wilson Presi- Tallahassee Museum 523 dential Library 331 Park 885 Santa Cruz Surfing Carlsbad Caverns Museum 974 Telfair Academy 420 Woody Guthrie Center 693 National Park 912 Scott & Zelda Fitzgerald Tennessee State Museum 388 World of Coca-Cola 407 Channel Islands National Museum 429 Park 967 Selma Interpretive Thinkery 701 Wrangell Museum 1092 Wright Museum 249 Congaree National Center 430 Thomas Condon Paleon- Park 376 Seymour Marine Discov- tology Center 1083 Wyoming Territorial Prison 787 Crater Lake National ery Center 974 Titan Missile Museum Park 1076 867 Ybor City Museum State Park 509 Craters of the Moon Titanic Museum 398 National Monument & Titanic: the Artifact music 335, 590, 1042, Map Pages 000 Preserve 814 Exhibition 517 1155-7 Photo Pages 000 Cuyahoga Valley National Tudor Place 281 Muskegon 596 Park 575 1203 Death Valley National Mammoth Cave National National September 11 Nevada 820-34 Park 639, 962-3, 639 Park 406, 633 Memorial 79 Newberry National Volcanic National Park & Marsh-Billings-Rockefel- Native American Museums Monument 1076 Preserve 1103 ler National Historical Anasazi State Park New Braunfels 715 Dinosaur National Park 239 Museum 886 New England 101, 184-263, Monument 879-80 Mesa Verde National Heard Museum (Phoe- 186-7 Park 19, 635, 782-3, Everglades National Park nix) 836 accommodations 184 INDEX 19, 634 490, 633, 632 Indian Pueblo Cultural climate 184 Mt Rainier National Park Center 890 Flaming Gorge National food 184 Recreation Area 880 639, 1056-7 Jilkaat Kwaan Cultural highlights 186-7  N Fredericksburg & Mt St Helens National Heritage & Bald history 185 Spotsylvania National Volcanic Monument Eagle Preserve Visitor Military Park 317 1057 Center 1097 travel seasons 184 Gateway National Natural Bridges National Millicent Rogers Museum New Hampshire 246-54, Park 645 Monument 885 902 237 Gila National Forest 909 Newberry National Vol- Museum of Indian Arts & New Haven 233-5 canic Monument 1076 Glacier Bay National Culture 899 New Jersey 101, 159-67, Park & Preserve North Cascades National Museum of Northern 76-7 Park 1054 1099-10 Arizona 847 accommodations 74 Olympic National Park Glacier National Park 19, Northwest Museum of climate 74 639, 1046-7, 638 Arts & Culture 1055 635, 807-10, 19 food 74 Oregon Dunes National Grand Canyon National Native American people & highlights 76-7 Recreation Area 1080-1 culture 32, 1128, 1143-5 Park 14, 636, 851-9, travel seasons 74 Ozark National Scenic Native American sites 1128 854-5, 14, 627, 631, New London 232 Riverways 653 Acoma Pueblo 894 636 New Mexico 889-912 Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Aztec Ruins National Grand Staircase-Es- New Orleans 13, 445-58, calante National Preserve 868 Monument 905 448-9, 452, 13 Monument 886 Petrified Forest National Bandelier National New Paltz 144-5 Grand Teton National Park 862 Monument 901 New River 341-3 Park 797-801, 798, 40 Pinnacles National Canyon de Chelly Park 970 Great Sand Dunes National Monument New River Gorge National National Park 784-5 Red Rock Canyon 861-2 River 341-2 National Conservation Great Smoky Mountains Chaco Culture National newspapers 1172 Area 831 National Park 20, 366- Historical Park 906 New York City 11, 75-137, 7, 633, 20, 631, 632 Redwood National Park Chapin Mesa 782 78, 10-11, 25, 40 639, 1011-12, Guadalupe Mountains 638 El Morro National accommodations 105-10 National Park 747 Rocky Mountain National Monument 894 activities 102-4 Haleakalā National Park Park 635, 766-7, 635 Gila Cliff Dwellings Bronx, the 102, 126-7, 135 1122, 640 Saguaro National Park National Monument Brooklyn 100-2, 109-10, Hanauma Bay Nature 636, 866-7, 634 909 119-21, 125-6, 134-5 Preserve 1113 Sequoia National Park Monument Valley Navajo Central Park 93, 94-5, 1020-2 Hawaiʻi Volcanoes Na- Tribal Park 862, 7 98-9, 98, 99 tional Park 1119-20 Shenandoah National Navajo National Monu- Chelsea 79, 81-3, 106-7, Hopewell Culture Park 330, 633, 632-3 ment 861 112-13, 122-3, 131, National Historical Stonewall National Newspaper Rock State 88-9 Park 584 Monument 83 Historic Monument Chinatown 79, 106, 111- 887 Hot Springs National Sunset Crater Volcano 12, 122, 131, 80-1 National Monument Park 439 Petroglyph National drinking & nightlife 121-7 852 Monument Archaeo- Hovenweep National East Village 83-4, 107, Theodore Roosevelt logical Site 890-1 Monument 885 113-15, 123, 131-2, National Park 668-9 Taos Pueblo 905 Indiana Dunes National 84-5 Voyageurs National Park Wetherill Mesa 782 Park 571 entertainment 127-30 625-6 Zuni Pueblo 894 Isle Royale National festivals & events 105 Park 602 Wind Cave National Natural Bridges National Fifth Avenue 91 John Day Fossil Beds Park 678 Monument 885 Financial District 75, National Monument Yellowstone National natural disasters 1160, 1169 1083 Park 11, 635, 792-7, 105-6, 110-11, 121-2, Navajo Nation 860-2, 1144 130-1 Joshua Tree National 794, 11, 629, 634-5 Navajo National Monument Flatiron District 84-5, Park 639, 958-60 Yosemite National Park 861 18, 639, 1017-20, , 107, 115-16, 123-4, 132 Kings Canyon National 18 Navy Pier 535 Park 1020-2 638-9 food 110-21 Nebraska 679-85 Lassen Volcanic National Zion National Park 636, Gramercy 84-5, 107, Nebraska Panhandle 684-5 Park 1017 888-9, 628, 636-7 115-16, 123-4, 132 1204 Greenwich Village 104 North Dakota 666-9 Ozark Mountains 442-4 Confluence Park 753 Harlem 97, 100, 109, 119, North Fork 141-2 Ozarks, the 652-5 Conservatory & Botani- 125, 134 North Kona 1116, 1117 cal Gardens 821 Lower East Side 83-4, North Platte 683 Coolidge Park 395 P 107, 113-15, 123, 131-2 North Shore 623-5 Lower Manhattan 75, Pacific Coast Highways 15, 150 North Woodstock 251 45-6, 15

INDEX INDEX 105-6, 110-11, 121-2, Crescent Park 450 Northampton 217-18 Pacific Northwest 104, 130-1, 80-1 Dallas Arboretum & Bo- Northwest Museum of Arts 1027-84, Meatpacking District 1028-9 tanical Gardens 731 & Culture 1055 accommodations 1027 79, 81-3, 106-7, 112-13, Desert N-P  122-3, 131 climate 1027 836

Midtown 85-7, 90-2, O food 1027 Dumbarton Oaks 281  107-8, 116-17, 124, Oʻahu 1107-11 highlights 1028-9 Fairchild Tropical Garden 132-3, 88-9 Creek Canyon 844 itineraries 1030 474 Queens 102, 126, 135 Oak Park 560 travel seasons 1027 Fakahatchee Strand safety 135 Obama, Barack 543, 1135-7 travel to/from 1031 Preserve 492 shopping 130-5 Ocean City 304-5 travel within 1031 Falls Park 669 sights 75-102 Ocean Grove 162-3 Pack Creek 1096 Forest Park 645-6, 1062 SoHo 79, 106, 111-12, Ocracoke Island 351-2 Padre Island National Forsyth Park 420 122, 131 Ogunquit 255 Seashore 727-8 Fort Williams Park 257 Times Square 87, 88-9 Ohio 572-84 painting 1149-15 Franklin Mountains State tipping 135 Ohio River 570 Paisley Park 615 Park 745 tourist information 135 Ojo Caliente 901-2 Palm Beach 486-9 Frederik Meijer Gardens tours 103 & Sculpture Park 593 O’Keeffe, Georgia 895, 901 Palm Springs 956-8 travel to/from 135-7 Garden of the Gods 776 Oklahoma 689-96 Palm Springs Aerial travel within 137 Tramway 956 Garvan Woodland Oklahoma City 689-91 Union Square 84-5, 107, Paris 441 Gardens 440 Old Cahawba Archaeologi- 115-16, 123-4, 132 Georgetown Waterfront cal Park 430 Park City 875-8 Upper East Side 92-3, Park 281 Old Faithful 793 parks & gardens 96, 108-9, 117-18, 124, Golden Gate Park 986 Old North Bridge 206-7 Airlie Gardens 353 133, 94-5 Griffith Park 922 Old Town Scottsdale 836 Alton Baker Park 1070 Upper Manhattan 97, High Line 79, 81 100, 119, 125, 134 Olympia 1045 Atlanta Botanical Garden 407 Hudson River Park 82 Upper West Side 96-7, Olympic National Park 639, Balboa Park 947-8 Huntington Library, Art 109, 118-19, 124-5, 1046-7, 638 Collections & Botani- Banyan Tree Square 1120 133-4, 94-5 Olympic Peninsula 1045-9 cal Gardens 927 Barataria Preserve 458 walking tours 104, 104 Omaha 679-81 Ijams Nature Center 396 Battery & White Point West Village 79, 81-3, One World Observatory Independence National Garden 368 106-7, 112-13, 122-3, 75, 79 Historical Park 167-8 Belle Isle Park 585 131, 84-5 Opelousas 462-3 Kentucky Horse Park New York State 137-59, 76-7 opening hours 1169 Boise River 811 403 accommodations 74 food 62 Boise River Greenbelt 810 Lake Leatherwood City climate 74 Orange County 944-5 Brackenridge Park 709 Park 443 food 74 Orcas Island 1051-2 Brookgreen Gardens 376 LeFrak Center at highlights 76-7 Oregon 1058-84 Brooklyn Botanic Garden Lakeside 103 101 travel seasons 74 Oregon Caves National Liliʻuokalani Park 1118 Brooklyn Bridge Park Newport 225-7, 1079 Monument & Preserve Lincoln Park 540 100, 25 Newspaper Rock State 1083 Lithia Park 1081 Historic Monument 887 Oregon Coast Trail 1078 Bryant Park 91 Louis Armstrong Park Niagara Falls 158-9 Oregon Dunes National Buffalo Bayou Park 717 447 nightclubs 829 Recreation Area 1080-1 Campus Martius Park Madison Square Park 585 84-5 Nirvana 1042 Oregon Shakespeare Festival 1082 Cape Perpetua Scenic Mary Ann Brown Norfolk 321-2 Oregon State Capitol 1070 Area 1079-80 Preserve 459 North Adams 221 Organ Mountains-Desert Cave Point County Park Máximo Gómez Park 473 North Carolina 345-67 Peaks National 611-12 Millennium Park 533 North Carolina Mountains Monument 911 Central Park 93, 94-5, Minneapolis Sculpture 360-6 Orlando 516-18, 520 98-9, 98, 99 Garden 615 Ouray 778-9 Chautauqua Park 762 Minute Man National Map Pages 000 Outer Banks 345, 348-51 Chimney Rock Park 363 Historic Park 206 Photo Pages 000 Oxford 431-2 City Park (New Orleans) Naples Botanical 447 Gardens 515 1205 National Gallery of Art Petoskey 599 Historic Stagville Planta- Q Sculpture Garden 269 Petrified Forest National tion 356 Quandary Peak 771 New York Botanical Park 862 Laura Plantation 458-9 Quechee 239-40 Garden 102 Petroglyph National Mon- Magnolia Plantation 369 Northerly Island 535 ument Archaeological McLeod Plantation 373 Olbrich Botanical Site 890-1 Middleton Place 369 R Racine 607 Gardens 608 Philadelphia 17, 167-78, Monticello 326 INDEX , , radio 1172 170-1 174 17 Montpelier 327 1032 accommodations 173 Radio City Music Hall 91 Myrtles Plantation 459 Piedmont Park 410 drinking & nightlife 175-7 rafting 359 Oakley Plantation 459  P-R Prospect Park 100 entertainment 177 Buffalo National River 441 Shirley Plantation 320  -Public Garden (Boston) festivals & events 172-3 New River Gorge Na Whitney Plantation 458 188 food 175 tional River 341, 342 Plymouth 207-8 Red Butte Garden 872 shopping 177 Railtown 1897 State Poʻipu 1124 Riverfront Park 1055 sights & activities 167-72 Historic Park 1015 Point Arena 1009 Robert H Treman State tourist offices 177 railways 1180 Park 150 Point Arena Lighthouse travel to/from 177-8 Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Rose Garden 920 1009 Railroad 575 travel within 178 Rose Kennedy Point Bonita Lighthouse Delaware & Ulster Phippsburg 259 Greenway 189 1001 Railroad 147 Phoenicia 147-8 San Francisco Botanical Point Reyes National Durango & Silverton Garden 986 Phoenix 835-43, 838-9 Seashore 1002 Narrow Gauge Rail- Shelby Farms Park 381 phonecards 1170 Point Sur State Historic road 783 Park 971 Shofuso Japanese House Pictured Rocks National Essex 233 & Garden 169 Lakeshore 601 politics 1142 Mt Washington Cog State Botanical Garden Piedmont, the 323-9 population 1138-9, 1139-14 Railway 252 of Georgia 418 Pierre 670 Port Angeles 1048 Raleigh 355-6 Sunnylands 956 Pigeon Forge 397-8 Port Orford 1081 rap music 1157 This is the Place Herit- Pike Place Market 1032, 18 Port Townsend 1047-8 Rapid City 673-5 age Park 871-2 Pikes Peak 776 Portland 255, 257-9, 1059- Red Cliff 613 Tilden Regional Park Pine Ridge Indian Reserva- 69, 1060-1, 33 Red Rock Canyon National 1002 tion 672 accommodations 1064-5 Conservation Area 831 Tom McCall Waterfront Pinkham Notch 253-4 activities 1063 Red Rocks Park & Park 1059 Pioneer Courthouse drinking & nightlife Amphitheatre 760 Tompkins Square Square 1059 1066-8 Redding 1015 Park 84 Pioneer Plaza 731 entertainment 1068 Redwood National Park Vulcan Park 426-7 Pioneer Valley 217-19 festivals & events 1064 639, 1011-12, 638 Washington Park 1062 Pioneertown 959 food 1065-6 Rehoboth Beach 309 Washington Square Park Pismo Beach 966 shopping 1068 religion 1139 82-3 Pittsburgh 180-3 sights 1059-63 Reno 831-4 Whale Park 1094 pizza 58 tourist information 1069 Republicans 1142 Parton, Dolly 397 planning tours 1064 Rhinebeck 146 passports 1175 accommodations 28-9 travel to/from 1069 Rhode Island 222-8 Patagonia-Sonoita Creek budgeting 23 travel within 1069 Richmond 324-6 Preserve 868 calendar of events 34-7 Portsmouth 247-8 ride-sharing services 1179 Peaks of Otter 334 Rim Road Scenic Drive 887 children, travel with 66-8 postal services 1169 Peanut Island 488 Rio Grande Gorge Bridge first-time travelers 24-5 Poughkeepsie 145-6 Pearl Harbor 1112 902 internet resources 23 Powell St Cable Car Pelee Island 577 River Walk 708-9 repeat visitors 26-7 Turnaround 977 Pennsylvania 101, 167-83, Rivera, Diego 981 road trips 43-8 Prada Marfa 743 76-7 road trips 43-8, 46 travel seasons 22 Prescott 843-4 accommodations 74 Arizona 844 USA basics 22-3 Presley, Elvis 379 climate 74 Great River Road 667 USA’s regions 101-4 Price Tower 696 food 74 Nebraska 683 Prince 615, 1155 highlights 76-7 Roanoke 333-4 Ashley River Plantation Princeton 160-1 travel seasons 74 rock climbing 54, 144, 339 369-70 Princeton University 161 Pennsylvania Dutch Providence 223-5 Castle Rock 1053 Country 178-9 Berkeley Plantation 320 Provincetown 212-14 El Capitan 1018 Pennsylvania Wilds 179-80 Boone Hall Plantation 370 public holidays 1169 Ouray Ice Park 779 Pensacola 525-7 Drayton Hall 369 public transportation 1179 Smith Rock State Park Pentagon 313 1075 1206 rock music 1156-7 San Antonio 708-13, 710 Saranac Lake 154 Shasta Lake 1015-16 Rockefeller Center 87, 90 San Diego 945-55, 946, Sarasota 512-13 Shasta State Historic Park Rockland 260-1 948-9, 952 Saugatuck 596-7 1015 Rockwell, Norman 220 accommodations 951-2 Saugerties 149 Shelburne Farms 243 Rocky Mountain National activities 951 Sault Ste Marie 601 Shelter Island 141-2 Park 635, 766-7, 635 drinking & nightlife 954 Savannah 420-4, 422, 31 Shenandoah National Park INDEX INDEX Rocky Mountains 103, 748- entertainment 954 scams 1169 330, 633, 632-3 65, , Shenandoah Valley 329-33 750-1 635 food 952-4 scenic drives 46 Sierra Nevada 1017-26 accommodations 748 sights 945-51 Acadia National Park

R-S climate 748 tourist information 955 262 Silver City 909  food 748 Silverton 781-2

,travel to/from 955 Blue Ridge Pkwy 334  highlights 750-1 travel within 955 361 Silverton Railroad Depot 781 itineraries 749 San Francisco 12, 976-1001, Brockway Mountain travel seasons 748 979, 980, 982-3, 2, 12 Drive 602 Singer Castle 155-6 travel to/from 752 accommodations 987-93 Crooked Road 335 Sioux City 661-2 Roswell 912 Castro, the 985, 992, Foothills Pkwy 366 Sioux Falls 669-70 Rothko, Mark 717 995-6, 986 Highland Scenic Highway Sioux peoples 1145 Route 66 21, 43-4, 533, Chinatown 978, 978-9, 340 Sisters 1073-4 2, 21 989, 993, 995 Hwy 13 613 Sitka 1093-5 Arizona 863 Civic Center 976-7, Hwy 61 624 Skagway 1098-9 Illinois 563 987-9, 993 Kancamagus Hwy 250 skating 477 Kansas 658 drinking & nightlife Mt Magazine Scenic skiing 53-4 996-7 Byway 441 Missouri 654 Alta 875 Embarcadero 977-8 Mt Washington Auto Oklahoma 692 Aspen 773 entertainment 998-9 Road 253 Route 66 Sign 533 Belleayre Mountain 147 Fisherman’s Wharf 984, Natchez Trace Pkwy 436 Route 170 741 Bend 1074 989, 992, 995 Pensacola Scenic Bluffs Rowan Oak 432 Big Sky Resort 801 food 993-6 Hwy 526 Royal Hawaiian Hotel 1110 Breckenridge 771 Haight, the 985, 992-3, Skyline Dr 330 Bridger Bowl Ski Area Ruidoso 910-11 996, Whiteface Veteran’s Me- 988 801 Russellville 441 itineraries 978 morial Highway 154 Brighton 875-6 Russian River Valley Mission, the 985, 992, Scotts Bluff National 1006-8 Monument 684 Canyons Village at Park 995-6, 986 City 877 Sea Lion Caves 1080 Nob Hill 981 Crested Butte 777 Sea Lions at Pier 39 984 S North Beach 978, 978-9, Deer Valley 876-7 Sacramento 1012-14 989, 993, 995 sea turtles 425, 501 Durango 783 safety 1169 Presidio 981, 984-5, 989, Seaside Heights 163 Flagstaff 847 Los Angeles 940 992, 995 Seattle 18, 1031-44, 1034- Grand Teton National Richmond 988 5, 18 road 1183, 1185 Park 797 Russian Hill 981 accommodations 1037-9 Saguaro National Park Hunter Mountain 148 shopping 999-1001 activities 1037 866-7, 634 Hurricane Ridge Ski & sailing 964 sights 976-86 drinking & nightlife Snowboard Area 1046 1040-1 Sainte Genevieve 652 SoMa 976-7, 987-9, 993 Jackson Hole 789 entertainment 1041-3 Salem 207, 1070 tourist information 1000 Killington Resort 240 festivals & events 1037 Salida 774-6 tours 987 Lake Tahoe 1025 food 1039-40 Salt Lake City 870-5 travel to/from 1000 Mad River Glen 240 shopping 1043 accommodations 872-3 travel within 1001 Methow Valley 1054 sights 1032-6 drinking & nightlife walking tour 994, 994 Mt Bachelor Ski Resort 873-4 San Juan Islands 1050-2 tourist information 1043 1074 entertainment 874 San Luis Obispo 967-8 tours 1037 Mt Hood 1072-3 food 873 Sandwich 208 travel to/from 1043-4 Northstar California sights 870-2 Sandy Hook Gateway travel within 1044 1026 Salt Lake Temple 871 National Recreation 1033 Park City Mountain Salton Sea 962 Area 164 Sedona 844-6, 848 Resort 877 Salvation Mountain 962 Sanibel Island 513-14 Selma 429-30 Porcupine Mountain Ski Santa Barbara 963-6 Seneca Falls 151 Area 603 Santa Cruz 974-6 Seneca Rocks 339 Royal Gorge 1026 Santa Fe 16, 894-900, 902, Sequoia National Park Ruidoso 910 Map Pages 000 896-7 1020-2 Salida 775 Photo Pages 000 Santa Monica Pier 925-6 Serpent Mound 584 Santa Fe 895 1207 Silverton 781 Southwest 103, 816-12, Cape May Point State Park 375 Snowbird 875 818-19 Park 166 Island Beach State Park Snowshoe Mountain accommodations 816 Cherry Springs State 163-4 Resort 340 climate 816 Park 179 Jedediah Smith Red- Solitude 875 food 816 Chicot State Park 462-3 woods State Park 1012 Squaw Valley Alpine highlights 818-19 Cimarron Canyon State John Pennekamp Coral

Park 906 Reef State Park 495 INDEX Meadows 1025 itineraries 817 City of Rocks State Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Stowe Mountain Resort travel seasons 816 240 Park 909 Park 970 Space Coast 500-2 Sugar Bowl 1026 Colt State Park 228 Kartchner Caverns State 1033  S Sun Valley Resort 813 Crawford Notch State Park 868 Spaceport America 907 Telluride 779-80 Park 252 653 spas, see hot springs Vail 772 Crystal Cove State Kelleys Islands State & spas Park 945 Park 576-7 Voyageurs National Sperryville 317 Park 626 Cumberland Falls State Lake Chelan State Park Spokane 1054-6 Resort Park 405 1054 Whitefish Mountain sports 1140-2 Resort 806-7 Custer State Park 677-8 Lake Dardanelle State Spring Green 609 Park 441 Winter Park 770 Davis Mountains State Springdale 889 Park 741-2 Lake Tahoe-Nevada Sleeping Bear Dunes State Park 1026 National Lakeshore Springfield (Illinois) 562-3 Dead Horse Point State 597-8 Springfield (Massachu- Park 884 Leonard Harrison State Park 179 Sloss Furnaces 426 setts) 218 State Park 1049 Lime Kiln Point State Smith College 218 Springfield (Missouri) 652 Del Norte Coast Red- Park 1051 Smith Island 295 St Augustine 503-5 St Charles 651 woods State Park 1012 Living Desert State Smithsonian Castle 276 Park 912 St Francisville 459-60 Diamond Head State Smugglers Notch 242 Monument 1113 Malibu Creek State St Helena Island 370 snorkeling, see diving & Donner Memorial State Park 924 snorkeling St Joseph 659-60 Park 1026 Montaña de Oro State snow sports 53-4, see also St Louis 645-51, 646, 648 Park 968-9 skiing St Paul 620-1 1046 Montauk Point State Aspen 773 St Petersburg 511-12 Park 141 Big Sky Resort 801 St Simons Island 424 653 1052 Bridger Bowl Ski Area Stanley 814-15 Ecola State Park 1078 Morro Bay State Park 801 State Fair of Texas 733 Eldorado Canyon State 968 Jackson Hole 789 state parks, see also na- Park 762 Mt Magazine State Sun Valley Resort 813 tional parks & historical Emerald Bay State Park Park 441 Utah Olympic Park 876 parks 1025 Mt Monadnock State Voyageurs National Park Andrew Molera State Fort Adams State Park Park 247 625-6 Park 971 225 Mt Nebo State Park 441 Solvang 966 Antelope Island State Fort Clinch State Park Mt Tamalpais State Park 507 1001 Sonoma Valley 1005-6, 17 Park 881 Sonoran hot dogs 868 Anza-Borrego Desert Fort Macon State Park Na Pali Coast Wilderness State Park 960-1 352 State Park 1123-4 South Bend 571-2 Assateague State Park Fort Stevens State Park Natural Bridge State South by Southwest 34, 304 1077 Park 332 703, 31 Bahia Honda State State Park Natural Bridge State South Carolina 367-78 Park 497 1047 Resort Park 406 South Dakota 669-79 742 Franconia Notch State Newport State Park 612 South Kohala 1116 Berkeley Springs State Park 251-2 Ozark Folk Center State South Kona 1115 Park 338-9 Grafton Notch State Park 442 South Padre Island 728-9 Big Bend Ranch State Park 263 Patrick’s Point State South Shore 138-9 Park 740-1 Hammonasset Beach Park 1011 South, the 102, 344-463, Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park 233 Petit Jean State Park 441 346-7 State Park 475 Hawks Nest State Park Pfeiffer Big Sur State accommodations 344 Blackwater Falls State 342 Park 971 climate 344 Park 339 Hocking Hills State Point Sur State Historic Park 583 food 344 Brandywine Creek State Park 971 Park 310 Humboldt Redwoods highlights 346-7 Porcupine Mountains Cape Blanco State Park State Park 1010 Wilderness State itineraries 349 1081 Humbug Mountain State Park 603 travel seasons 344 Cape Henlopen State Park 1081 Prairie Creek Redwoods Southold 141 Park 308 Hunting Island State State Park 1012 1208 state parks continued Miami 477 tourist information 1171 Virginia 312-36 Robert Moses State Montauk 140 tours 1177 Virginia Beach 322-3 Park 138 San Diego 951 train travel 1176, 1179-81 Virginia Military Institute Route 66 State Park 654 Santa Cruz 974 travel to/from USA 1175-7 332 Salt Point State Park swimming travel within USA 1177-81 visas 1171-3 1009 Auburn State Recreation Traverse City 598 volunteering 1173-4

INDEX INDEX Sinks Canyon State Area 1014 Triangle, the 354-8 Vonnegut, Kurt 565 Park 788 Austin 701 Trinidad 1011 Smith Rock State Park Balmorhea State Park 1075 Tri-Peaks Region 440-2 W

S- 742  Split Rock Lighthouse Trump, Donald 1137 Waikiki 1110-14, 50 W Lake Tahoe 1026  State Park 624 Truth or Consequences Wailua 1123 Zephyr Cove 1025 907 Sonoma Coast State Waimoku Falls 640 Tuckerman Ravine 253 Park 1008 walking Tucson 863-6 Table Rock State Park T Birmingham Civil Rights 377 Tabernacle 871 Tulsa 693-4 Memorial Trail 427 Taum Sauk Mountain Tahlequah 696 Tuolumne Meadows 1018 Cliff Walk 226 State Park 653 Taliesin 609 Twain, Mark 651 Cotton Valley Rail Trail Torrey State Natu- Tallahassee 523-5 249 ral Reserve 950 Tallulah Gorge 419 U New River Gorge 419 National River 342 Tamiami Trail 492-3 Ukiah 1010 Valley of Fire State Tampa 509-11 walking tours 994 Park 830 Universal Orlando Resort Tanglewood Music Festival 520-3 Boston 198, 198 Van Damme State Park 220 1009 University of California Chicago 542, 542 Tannersville 148 (Berkeley) 1002 419 Miami 476, 476 University of North 159 Taos 16, 902-5, 16 New Orleans 452, 452 Carolina 357 White River State Park Target Marathon 743 New York City 104, 104 University of Oregon 1070 565 taxes 1168 San Francisco 994, 994 University of Virginia 326-7 Windley Key Fossil Reef taxis 1179 Wall 671 Upcountry 377-8 Geological State TCL Chinese Theatre 921-2 Walla Walla 1057-8 Site 496 Upper Peninsula 600-3 telephone services 22, Wall Drug 671 Statue of Liberty 75 1169-17 US Capitol 276-7 Wallowa Mountains 1084 Staunton 330-1 television 1146-7, 1172 US Naval Academy 301 Walnut Canyon 851 Steamboat Springs 768-9 Telluride 779-81 USS Constitution 193 Walt Disney Concert Steens Mountain 1084 Telluride Bluegrass Festival Utah 869-89 Hall 918 780 Stillwater 621 Utah Olympic Park 876 Walt Disney World® Resort Stockbridge 220 Temple Square 871 Utah State Capitol 871 518-20 Stockyards (Fort Worth) Tennessee 378-98 Wasatch Mountains 875-8 736 Texas 103, 697-747, 698-9 V Washington 1031-58 Stowe 242-3 accommodations 697 vacations 1169 Washington, DC 102, 265- Straits of Mackinac climate 697 vaccinations 1166 94, 270-1 599-600 food 697 Vail 771-3 accommodations 283-5 subways 1179 highlights 698-9 Vail Mountain 772 activities 282 Sugarcreek 577 itineraries 700 Valentine 683-4 drinking & nightlife Sullivan’s Island 373 travel seasons 697 289-92 Valley of Fire State Park 830 Sun Studio 379 Texas State Capitol 700-1 entertainment 292-3 vegetarian travelers 27, 58 Sun Valley 812-14 theater 1151-2 festivals & events 283 Venice Boardwalk 926 Sundance Film Festival 877 theme parks, see amuse- food 285-9 Vermont 235-46, 237 Sundance Resort 882 ment parks & water history 265 Vernal 879 Sunken Forest 138 parks itineraries 268 Very Large Array 908 Sunrift Gorge 808 Thousand Islands 155-6 LGBTIQ+ travelers 291 Vicksburg 434 Sunset Crater Volcano Na- time 23, 668, 1170 sights 265-82 Ville Platte 462 tional Monument 852 Times Square 87 tourist information 293 vineyards surfing 51-2 tipping 65, 135, 1168 tours 282-3 Cannon Beach 1078 toilets 1170 Haight-Brown Vineyards 230 travel to/from 293-4 Los Angeles 929 Tombstone 868-9 Traverse City 598 travel within 294 Topeka 687-8 Virginia 323 Washington & Lee Top of the Rock 91-2 University 332 Map Pages 000 Wolf Mountain Vineyards tornadoes 686 Washington State Capitol Photo Pages 417 000 Torrey 886 1045 1209 water parks, see amuse- Green River 880 South Padre Island Spring Green 609 ment parks & water Hells Canyon Dam 1084 Birding & Nature Taliesin West 836 parks John Day River 1083 Center 728 trails 561 waterfalls San Juan River 884-5 Tallgrass Prairie National Wrigley Field 540 Preserve 688-9 Amicalola Falls 417 Taos 903 Wyoming 785-800 Arethusa Falls 252 Three Ring Ranch Exotic Upper Klamath River Animal Sanctuary 1114 Benham Falls 1076 1081 INDEX Wichita Mountains Bird Woman Falls 808 Wichita 685-6 Y Wildlife Refuge 695 Yachats 1079-80 Cascade Falls, 678 Wigwam Motel 2 World Center for Birds of Yakima 1057 Kaaterskill Falls 148 wildlife 1159-61,  W-Z 632 Prey 811 Yale University 233 McWay Falls 970 wildlife reserves Wildwood 165-6  Yankee Stadium 102 Mooney Falls 636 Admiralty Island National Willamette Valley 1069-71 Yellow Springs 579-80 Multnomah Falls 1071 Monument 1096 Williams 850-1 Yellowstone National Park Niagara Falls 158-9 Alaska Raptor Center Williamsburg 318-19 11, 636, 792-7, 794, 11, Sabbaday Falls 250 1094 Williamstown 221-2 629, 634-5 Anan Creek Wildlife Sioux Falls 669 Willis Tower 533 Observatory 1092 yoga 928-9 Waimoku Falls 640 Wilmington 310, 353-4 Yorktown 320-1 Yosemite Falls 1018 Bombay Hook 311 wine 30, 63-4 Yosemite National Park WaterFire 223-4 Chincoteague National wine regions 17, 30, 63-4 18, 639, 1017-20, 18, water sports 55-6, see also Wildlife Refuge 304 Healdsburg 1006-8 638-9 individual water sports, Napa Valley 1004-5 Yosemite Village 1017 locations Cypress Creek National Wildlife Refuge 564 Paso Robles Wine Watts Towers 920-1 Duke Lemur Center 356 Country 969 Wawona 1018 Z Everglades Outpost Patagonia 868 Weedon Island Preserve Zion National Park 638, 491-2 Russian River Valley 511 888-9, 628-9, 636-7 Fredericksburg 714 1006-8 weights 1172 zoos Georgia Sea Turtle Sainte Genevieve 652 Weirs Beach 248-9 Alaska Zoo 1088 Center 425 Santa Maria Valley 966 Wellfleet 212 Bronx Zoo 102 JN ‘Ding’ Darling Sonoma Valley 1005-6, 17 Welty, Eudora 435 Central Park Zoo 93 National Wildlife Verde Valley 845 West Palm Beach 488-9 Refuge 514 Jungle Island 475 Wingspread 607 West Virginia 336-43 Klamath Basin National Living Desert Zoo & Winter Park 770 Westwood Village Memorial Wildlife Refuge Gardens 956 Wisconsin 603-14 Park Cemetery 923 Complex 1017 Maryland Zoo in Wizard Stones of Kapae- whale-watching 213 Laura Quinn Wild Bird Baltimore 296 mahu 1110 Monterey Bay 972-3 Sanctuary 495 Minnesota Zoo 614 Wolfeboro 249-50 Whale Park 1094 Louisiana Universities Monkey Jungle 475 Marine Consortium wolves 1159 Whidbey Island 1049 Omaha’s Henry Doorly 462 women travelers 1174 Zoo & Aquarium 679 Whiskeytown National Manatee Viewing Center Women’s Building 985 Recreation Area 1015 Oregon Zoo 1062 509-10 Wood, Grant 663 Whiteface Mountain 154 San Diego Zoo 948 Merritt Island National Woodstock 148-9, 239-40 Smithsonian’s National Whitefish 806-7 Wildlife Refuge 500-1 work 1174 Zoo 281-2 White House 278 National Bison Range Wrangell 1091-3 St Louis Zoo 647 White Mountains 250-4 808 Wright, Frank Lloyd Woodland Park Zoo 1038 White Sands National National Elk Refuge 789 Bartlesville 696 Zoo Miami 475 Monument 909-10 Old Tunnel Wildlife Man- Zuni Pueblo 894 white-water rafting 53 agement Area 714 Dana Thomas House 562 Arkansas River 776 Pea Island National Home & Studio 560 Colorado River 859 Wildlife Refuge 348 Racine 607 Durango 783 Sea Turtle, Inc 728 Robie House 541 1210 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1211

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Greg Ward Texas, The South Since whetting his appetite for travel by following the hippie trail to India, and later living in northern Spain, Greg has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as cover- ing the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent assignments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Japan to Corfu. See his website, www.gregward.info, for his favorite photos and memories.

Karla Zimmerman Great Lakes, The South, Washington, DC Karla lives in Chicago, where she eats doughnuts and yells at the Cubs, and writes stuff for books, magazines and websites when she’s not doing the first two things. She has contributed to 70-plus guidebooks and travel anthologies covering destinations in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America and the Caribbean. To learn more, follow her @karlazimmerman on Instagram and Twitter.

Other contributors Barbara Noe Kennedy contributed to the Washington, DC section. Lonely Planet Tennessee staff Ben Buckner, Evan Godt, Alicia Johnson, Alexander Howard, Bailey Freeman and Sarah Stocking contributed to the Nashville section. Charles Rawlings-Way curated the Great Lakes, Great Plains and Texas chapters, and Martine Power curated the Florida chapter. Christopher Pitts Arizona Chris’s first expedition in life ended in failure when he tried to dig from Pennsylvania to China at the age of six. He went on to study Chinese in university, living for several years in China. After more than a decade in Paris, the lure of Colorado’s sunny skies and outdoor adventure proved too great to resist.

Kevin Raub Great Lakes, The South Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Co- lombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Along the way, the confessed hophead is in con- stant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@Raub OnTheRoad).

Simon Richmond Pennsylvania Journalist and photographer Simon has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s, covering countries including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. He has lived in the UK, Japan and Australia, and is now based back in the UK in Folkestone on the east Kent coast. His travel features have been published in newspapers and magazines around the world, including in the UK’s Independ- ent, Guardian, Times, Daily Telegraph and Royal Geographical Society Magazine, and in Australia’s Sydney Morning Herald and Australian newspapers and Australian Financial Review magazine.

Andrea Schulte-Peevers California Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has traveled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for more than two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles.

Regis St Louis New England, The South Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban land- scapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Great Plains Ryan has written more than 110 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. He grew up in Santa Cruz, California, which he left at age 17 for college in the Midwest, where he first discovered snow. All joy of this novelty soon wore off. Since then he has been traveling the world, both for pleasure and for work – which are often indistinguishable. He has covered everything from wars to bars, and definitely prefers the latter. Ryan calls New York City home. Read more at ryanverberk moes.com and at @ryanvb.

Mara Vorhees New England, Washington, DC & the Capital Region Mara writes about food, travel and family fun around the world. Her work has been published by BBC Travel, Boston Globe, Delta Sky, the Vancou- ver Sun and more. For Lonely Planet, she regularly writes about destinations in Central America and Eastern Europe, as well as New England, where she lives. She often travels with her twin boys in tow, earning her expertise in family travel. Follow their adventures at www.havetwinswilltravel.com.­ Benedict Walker New England Born in Newcastle, Australia, Ben holds notions of the beach core to his idea of self, though he’s traveled thousands of miles from the sandy shores of home to live in Leipzig, Germany. Ben was given his first Lonely Planet guide when he was 12. Two decades later, he’d write chapters for the same publication: a dream come true. A communications graduate and travel agent by trade, Ben whittled away his twenties gallivanting around the globe. He thinks the best thing about travel isn’t as much where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers enriches one’s own experience. Come along for the ride on Instagram @wordsandjourneys.

apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet.

John Hecht Utah Los Angeles native John has contributed to more than a dozen Lonely Planet guidebooks and trade publications, mostly focused on Latin America and the US. He headed down south to Mexico more than two decades ago and is still livin’ the Mexican dream in his adopted country.

Adam Karlin Alaska; Hawaii; New England; Pennsylvania; The South; Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon National Parks Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archeology and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays and articles have featured on the BBC and NPR, and in multiple non-fiction anthologies. Adam is based out of New Orleans. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com, or follow @adamwalkonfine on Instagram.

Brian Kluepfel New England, New Jersey Brian had lived in three states and seven different residences by the time he was nine, and just kept moving, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs further down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Québec. His titles for Lonely Planet include Costa Rica, Bolivia and Ecuador. He writes a blog about Venezuelan baseball players and another regarding birds of many nations called www.brianbirdwatching.blogspot.com.

Ali Lemer New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania Ali has been a Lonely Planet writer and editor since 2007, and has authored guidebooks and travel articles on Russia, NYC, Los Angeles, Melbourne, Bali, Hawaii, Japan and Scotland. A native New Yorker and naturalized Melburnian, Ali has also lived in Chicago, Prague and the UK, and has traveled extensively around Europe and North America.

Vesna Maric Florida Vesna has been a Lonely Planet author for nearly two decades, covering places as far and wide as Bolivia, Algeria, Sicily, Cyprus, Barcelona, London and Croatia, among others. Her latest work has been updating Florida, Greece and North Macedonia.

Virginia Maxwell Washington, DC, Virginia Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year up- dating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediterranean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for Lonely Planet – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the USA and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Hugh McNaughtan New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applica- tions for visa applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of ­restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field…

MaSovaida Morgan Oregon, The South MaSovaida is a Lonely Planet writer and multimedia storyteller whose wander- lust has taken her to more than 35 countries across six continents. Prior to freelancing, she was Lonely Planet’s­ Destination Editor for South America for four years and worked as an editor for news- papers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Becky Ohlsen Washington Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere for Lonely Planet.

Lorna Parkes New York City Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and former Lonely Planet staffer in both cities, Lorna has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and magazines. She’s discovered she writes best on planes, and is most content when researching food and booze. Wineries and the tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places, but Yorkshire will always be special to her. Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Ray Bartlett Florida Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tan- zania, Guatemala, Indonesia, and many parts of the USA to life in rich detail for publishers, news­ papers and magazines. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter @kaisoradotcom.

Greg Benchwick Colorado A longtime Lonely Planet travel writer, Greg has rumbled in the jungles of Bolivia, trekked across Spain on the Camino de Santiago, interviewed presidents and Grammy Award winners, dodged flying salmon in Alaska and climbed mountains (big and small) in between.

Andrew Bender California Award-winning travel and food writer Andrew has written three dozen Lonely Planet guide- books (from Amsterdam to Los Angeles, Germany to Taiwan and over a dozen titles about Japan), plus numerous articles for lonelyplanet.com.

Alison Bing California Over many guidebooks and 20 years in San Francisco, author Alison has spent more time on Alcatraz than some inmates, become an aficionado of drag and burritos, and willfully ignored Muni signs warning that safety requires avoiding unnecessary conversation.

Celeste Brash Oregon Celeste has been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet since 2005 and her travel articles have appeared in publications from BBC Travel to National Geographic. She’s currently writing a book about her five years on a remote pearl farm in the Tuamotu Atolls.

Jade Bremner The South Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure.

Gregor Clark New England Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of ­countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

Stephanie d’Arc Taylor Nevada A native Angeleno, Stephanie has published work with , the Guardian, Roads & Kingdoms and Kinfolk Magazine (among others), and co-founded Jaleesa, a venture-capital-funded social impact business in Beirut.

Michael Grosberg Glacier National Park Michael has worked on more than 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Other inter- national work included development on Rota in the western Pacific; in South Africa, where he inves- tigated and wrote about political violence and trained newly elected government representatives; and teaching in Quito, Ecuador.

Anthony Ham Idaho, Montana, Wyoming Anthony is a freelance writer who travels the world in search of stories. His particular passions are the wildlife, wild places and wide open spaces of the planet, from the Great Plains of the US to the Amazon, East and Southern Africa, and the Arctic. He writes for mag- azines and newspapers around the world, and his narrative nonfiction book on Africa’s lions will be published in 2020.

Ashley Harrell California, The South After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ash- ley decided she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and started covering wildlife, crime and tourism, sometimes all in the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Trisha Ping A year working abroad in Mulhouse, France, and a fascination with languages turned Trisha into a lifelong traveler. Over her 15-year career as a writer and editor, she spent two years as a Destination Editor at Lonely Planet and is now the publisher of BookPage. She lives in Nashville, Tennessee. Trisha researched and curated the Plan Your Trip, Understand USA and Survival Guide chapters.

Isabel Albiston New England After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as a writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four- month overland trip across Asia and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to more than a dozen guidebooks. She’s currently based in Ireland.

Mark Baker Great Lakes Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for the Economist, ­Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other ­organisations. Find him on Instagram and Twitter @markbakerprague, and his blog at www.markbakerprague.com.

Amy C Balfour Capital Region, New England, New Mexico, The South Amy practiced law in Virginia before moving to Los Angeles to try to break in as a screenwriter. After a stint as a writer’s assistant on Law & Order, she jumped into freelance writing, focusing on travel, food and the outdoors. She has hiked, biked and paddled across Southern California and the Southwest, and recently criss-crossed the Great Plains in search of the region’s best burgers and barbecue. She has written many books for Lonely Planet and her essays have appeared in the Los Angeles Times and Southern Living, and the travel anthologies Go Your Own Way and The Thong Also Rises.

Robert Balkovich New England, New York State, Washington Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house, he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking experiences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on. Follow on Instagram @oh_balky.

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