©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
USA
ME WA New England Pacific New York, MT p184 Northwest ND New Jersey & VT Rocky Pennsylvania NH p1027 MN MA Mountains p74 OR WI MI NY ID p748 SD CT RI WY PA NJ IA Great Lakes NE MD CA p528 OH DE NV Great Plains IL UT p641 IN WV Washington, DC CO & the Capital Region KY VA California Southwest KS MO p264 p913 p816 TN NC OK The South SC AZ NM AR p344 MS AL GA Texas LA p697 Florida p464 TX FL
AK Alaska p1085 Hawaii p1105 HI
Trisha Ping, Isabel Albiston, Mark Baker, Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Ray Bartlett, Greg Benchwick, Andrew Bender, Alison Bing, Celeste Brash, Jade Bremner, Gregor Clark, Stephanie d’Arc Taylor, Michael Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Ashley Harrell, John Hecht, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Ali Lemer, Vesna Maric, Virginia Maxwell, Hugh McNaughtan, MaSovaida Morgan, Becky Ohlsen, Lorna Parkes, Chris- topher Pitts, Kevin Raub, Charles Rawlings-Way, Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Mara Vorhees, Benedict Walker, Greg Ward, Karla Zimmerman PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
Welcome to the USA. . . . . 6 NEW YORK, White Mountains ...... 250 USA Map ...... 8 NEW JERSEY & Hanover...... 254 USA’s Top 25...... 10 PENNSYLVANIA. . . . 74 Maine...... 254 Need to Know...... 22 New York City...... 75 Ogunquit...... 255 First Time USA...... 24 New York State. . . . . 137 Portland...... 255 What’s New...... 26 Long Island...... 137 Midcoast Maine ...... 259 Accommodations. . . . . 28 Hudson Valley...... 143 Downeast Maine...... 261 If You Like… ...... 30 Catskills...... 146 Inland Maine...... 263 Month by Month. . . . . 34 Finger Lakes...... 149 Itineraries ...... 38 The Adirondacks . . . . . 151 WASHINGTON, DC Road Trips & Thousand Islands. . . . . 155 & THE CAPITAL REGION...... 264 Scenic Drives ...... 43 New Jersey ...... 159 Outdoor Activities. . . . 49 Hoboken ...... 160 Washington, DC . . . . . 265 Eat & Drink Maryland...... 294 Like a Local...... 57 Princeton...... 160 Baltimore...... 294 Family Travel...... 66 Jersey Shore...... 162 Annapolis...... 301 Regions at a Glance. . . . 69 Pennsylvania...... 167 Philadelphia ...... 167 Eastern Shore...... 303 Ocean City...... 304
ALBERTOLOYO /SHUTTERSTOCK © Pennsylvania Dutch Country...... 178 Western Maryland. . . . . 305 Pennsylvania Wilds . . . . 179 Delaware ...... 307 Pittsburgh...... 180 Delaware Coast...... 308 Wilmington & NEW ENGLAND. . . . 184 Brandywine Valley. . . . . 310 Massachusetts. . . . . 185 Dover ...... 310 Boston...... 188 Virginia...... 312 Cape Cod...... 208 Northern Virginia. . . . . 313 The Islands...... 214 Historic Triangle...... 318 Norfolk...... 321 WIGWAM MOTEL, ROUTE Pioneer Valley...... 217 66 P863 The Berkshires...... 219 Virginia Beach...... 322 Rhode Island...... 222 The Piedmont...... 323 Providence...... 223 Shenandoah Valley. . . 329 PHITHA TANPAIROJSHUTTERSTOCK©/ Newport...... 225 Blue Ridge Highlands & Southwest Virginia. . . . 333 East Bay...... 227 West Virginia...... 336 Connecticut...... 228 Eastern Panhandle. . . . . 337 Hartford...... 228 Monongahela Litchfield Hills...... 230 National Forest...... 339 Connecticut Coast. . . . . 231 New River & Vermont...... 235 Greenbrier Valley. . . . . 341 New Hampshire ...... 246 Southern THE SOUTH...... 344 New Hampshire...... 246 GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE, SAN North Carolina ...... 345 FRANCISCO P981 Lakes Region...... 248 North Carolina Coast. . . . 345 Contents
The Triangle...... 354 FLORIDA ...... 464 Dayton...... 580 Charlotte...... 358 South Florida ...... 465 Cincinnati ...... 580 North Carolina Miami...... 465 Michigan ...... 584 Mountains...... 360 Fort Lauderdale ...... 482 Detroit...... 584 Great Smoky Mountains Dearborn...... 591 National Park ...... 366 Palm Beach...... 486 Ann Arbor ...... 592 South Carolina. . . . . 367 The Everglades...... 490 Central Michigan ...... 592 Charleston...... 368 Florida Keys ...... 494 Gold Coast...... 595 Lowcountry...... 373 Atlantic Coast...... 500 Straits of Mackinac. . . . . 599 Myrtle Beach...... 375 Space Coast...... 500 Upper Peninsula...... 600 Greenville & Daytona Beach...... 502 the Upcountry...... 377 St Augustine...... 503 Wisconsin ...... 603 Tennessee...... 378 Jacksonville...... 505 Milwaukee...... 603 Memphis...... 378 Amelia Island ...... 507 Minnesota...... 614 Nashville ...... 385 Southwest Florida . . . . 508 Minneapolis...... 614 Kentucky...... 398 Tampa...... 509 St Paul...... 620 Louisville...... 399 St Petersburg...... 511 Northern Minnesota . . . . 622 Bluegrass Country. . . . . 403 Sarasota...... 512 GREAT PLAINS. . . . 641 Central Kentucky...... 405 Sanibel & Georgia...... 406 Captiva Islands...... 513 Missouri...... 645 Atlanta...... 406 Naples ...... 514 St Louis...... 645 St Charles...... 651 Alabama...... 426 Central Florida. . . . . 516 Birmingham ...... 426 Orlando ...... 516 Hannibal...... 651 Montgomery...... 428 Walt Disney Springfield...... 652 World® Resort...... 518 Selma...... 429 The Ozarks ...... 652 Universal Orlando Kansas City...... 655 Mobile ...... 430 Resort...... 520 Independence...... 658 Mississippi...... 431 Florida Panhandle . . . . 523 St Joseph...... 659 Oxford ...... 431 Tallahassee...... 523 Iowa ...... 659 Mississippi Delta ...... 432 Pensacola ...... 525 Jackson...... 434 Des Moines...... 660 Natchez...... 436 GREAT LAKES. . . . 528 Sioux City ...... 661 Davenport...... 662 Gulf Coast...... 437 Illinois ...... 529 Iowa City...... 662 Arkansas...... 437 Chicago...... 529 Amana Colonies...... 663 Little Rock...... 437 Indiana...... 564 Cedar Valley ...... 663 Hot Springs...... 439 Indianapolis...... 564 Mt Vernon ...... 664 Tri-Peaks Region...... 440 Ohio ...... 572 Dubuque ...... 664 Ozark Mountains...... 442 Cleveland...... 573 Iowa’s Great Lakes. . . . . 665 Louisiana...... 444 Erie Lakeshore New Orleans...... 445 & Islands...... 576 North Dakota ...... 666 St Francisville...... 459 Ohio Amish Country . . . . 577 Fargo...... 666 Cajun Country ...... 460 Columbus ...... 578 Bismarck...... 668 Cajun Wetlands...... 461 Yellow Springs ...... 579 ON THE ROAD
Theodore Roosevelt Galveston...... 724 Ketchum & Sun Valley. . . 812 National Park ...... 668 Corpus Christi ...... 726 Stanley...... 814 South Dakota ...... 669 Padre Island Sioux Falls...... 669 National Seashore. . . . . 727 SOUTHWEST. . . . . 816 Chamberlain...... 670 South Padre Island . . . . . 728 Nevada...... 820 Pierre...... 670 Dallas–Fort Worth . . . . 729 Las Vegas...... 820 Wall...... 671 Dallas...... 729 The Great Basin...... 834 Badlands National Park. . .. 671 Fort Worth...... 736 Arizona...... 834 Pine Ridge Indian West Texas...... 739 Phoenix ...... 835 Reservation...... 672 Big Bend National Park. . . . 739 Grand Canyon Black Hills...... 672 Big Bend Ranch National Park ...... 851 Nebraska...... 679 State Park...... 740 Utah ...... 869 Omaha...... 679 Central West Texas. . . . . 741 Salt Lake City...... 870 Lincoln...... 681 El Paso...... 745 Park City & Grand Island...... 682 Guadalupe Mountains Wasatch Mountains. . . . 875 North Platte ...... 683 National Park ...... 747 Moab & Southeastern Utah ...... 880 Valentine...... 683 ROCKY Zion & Nebraska Panhandle. . . . 684 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 748 Southwestern Utah. . . . . 885 Kansas...... 685 Colorado ...... 752 New Mexico...... 889 Wichita...... 685 Denver...... 753 Albuquerque...... 890 Lawrence...... 687 Boulder ...... 762 Along I-40...... 894 Topeka...... 687 Northern Mountains. . . . 766 Santa Fe...... 894 Chase County...... 688 Wyoming ...... 785 Oklahoma...... 689 Cheyenne...... 785 CALIFORNIA. . . . . 913 Oklahoma City...... 689 Laramie...... 787 Los Angeles...... 916 Western Oklahoma . . . . 691 Lander...... 788 Southern Tulsa...... 693 Californian Coast. . . . 941 Jackson...... 789 Guthrie...... 694 Disneyland & Anaheim. . . . 941 Cody...... 791 Anadarko...... 695 Orange County Yellowstone Beaches...... 944 Muskogee ...... 695 National Park ...... 792 San Diego ...... 945 Tahlequah ...... 696 Grand Teton National Park ...... 797 Palm Springs & the Deserts...... 955 TEXAS ...... 697 Montana...... 800 Palm Springs...... 956 Central Texas...... 700 Bozeman & Gallatin Valley...... 801 Joshua Tree Austin...... 700 National Park ...... 958 Billings...... 803 San Antonio & Anza-Borrego The Hill Country...... 708 Helena...... 803 Desert State Park...... 960 East Texas...... 716 Missoula...... 805 Mojave National Houston...... 716 Whitefish...... 806 Preserve...... 961 Clear Lake & Around. . . . 722 Glacier National Park . . . . 807 Death Valley Gulf Coast & Idaho ...... 810 National Park ...... 962 South Texas...... 723 Boise...... 810 Central Coast...... 963 Contents
UNDERSTAND
Santa Barbara...... 963 Wrangell...... 1091 History...... 1126 Santa Barbara to Sitka...... 1093 The Way of Life...... 1138 San Luis Obispo...... 966 Juneau...... 1095 Native Americans. . . . . 1143 San Luis Obispo...... 967 Haines ...... 1097 Morro Bay to Skagway...... 1098 Arts & Architecture. . . . 1146 Hearst Castle ...... 968 Glacier Bay National The Music Scene . . . . . 1155 Big Sur...... 970 Park & Preserve...... 1099 The Land & Wildlife. . . . 1158 Carmel-by-the-Sea ...... 971 Ketchikan...... 1101 Monterey...... 972 Fairbanks...... 1102 Santa Cruz ...... 974 San Francisco & HAWAII...... 1105 the Bay Area...... 976 Oʻahu ...... 1107 San Francisco...... 976 SURVIVAL Honolulu ...... 1107 Marin County ...... 1001 GUIDE Waikiki...... 1110 Berkeley...... 1002 Hawaiʻi, Northern California. . . . 1003 the Big Island...... 1113 Directory A–Z...... 1164 Wine Country...... 1003 Kailua-Kona...... 1114 Transportation ...... 1175 North Coast...... 1008 Mauna Kea...... 1116 Driving in the USA. . . . 1182 Sacramento...... 1012 Hamakua Coast...... 1117 Gold Country...... 1014 Hilo...... 1118 Index ...... 1190 California’s Northern Hawaiʻi Volcanoes Map Legend...... 1211 Mountains...... 1015 National Park ...... 1119 Sierra Nevada...... 1017 Maui...... 1120 Lahaina ...... 1120 PACIFIC Kihei ...... 1121 NORTHWEST. . . . 1027 Kauaʻi...... 1122 Washington...... 1031 Lihuʻe...... 1123 Seattle...... 1031 Wailua ...... 1123 Olympia...... 1045 Hanalei Bay & the Olympic Peninsula. . . . . 1045 North Shore ...... 1123 San Juan Islands . . . . . 1050 Poʻipu & South Shore. . . . 1124 North Cascades...... 1052 South Cascades...... 1056 Oregon...... 1058 SPECIAL FEATURES Portland...... 1059 Willamette Valley. . . . . 1069 Road Trips & National Mall 3D Scenic Drives ...... 43 Illustration...... 274 Columbia River Gorge. . .. 1071 Oregon Cascades. . . . . 1072 Outdoor Activities. . . . . 49 USA’s National Parks . . . . . 627 Eat & Drink ALASKA...... 1085 Like a Local...... 57 Alcatraz 3D Illustration...... 990 Anchorage...... 1087 Central Park 3D Illustration...... 98 Driving in the USA. . . 1182 Southeast Alaska. . . . 1091 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 38
Itineraries
CANADA MAINE
#• Portland VERMONT Gulf of É Maine NEW HAMPSHIRE
#• Portsmouth É
Concord #•Salem É #• Provincetown Bennington #• É #• Boston #• NEW MASSACHUSETTS YORK É #• Cape Cod
É RHODE CONNECTICUT ISLAND Greenport #•Montauk É #• A T L A N T I C
É É O C E A N New York #• PENNSYLVANIA City NEW JERSEY
2 WEEKS East Coasting
Big cities, historic towns and serene coastlines offer a highlights reel of America’s north- eastern corner. The great dynamo of art, fashion and culture, New York City is America at its most urbane. Spend four days exploring the metropolis, visiting people-watching ‘hoods such as the West and East Villages, Soho and the Upper West Side, with a museum-hop down the Upper East Side. Have a ramble in Central Park, stroll the High Line and take detours to Brooklyn and Queens. After big-city culture, catch your breath at the pretty beaches of Greenport and Montauk on Long Island. Back in NYC, catch the train to Boston for two days of visiting historic sights, dining in the North End and pub-hopping in Cambridge. Strike out for Cape Cod, with its idyllic dunes and pretty shores. Leave time for Provincetown, the Cape’s liveliest settlement. Back in Boston, rent a car and take a three-day jaunt to explore New England’s back roads, staying at heritage B&Bs along the way. Highlights include Salem and Concord in Massachusetts; Bennington, VT; and Portsmouth, NH. If time allows, head up to Maine for lobster feasts amid beau- tifully rugged coastline: Portland is a great place to start. 39
Olympic San Juan CANADA National Islands Glacier Park •# National
÷# Seattle Park •# É ÷# Bob Marshall WA •# TRIP YOUR PLAN R ÷#Wilderness Complex Spokane •# MINNESOTA Mt Rainier Missoula MONTANA NTH DAKOTA #•Bozeman WISCONSIN NEW OREGON Yellowstone Deadwood Minneapolis RHODE
National Park Cody •# YORK ISLAND
÷# É •#
É STH DAKOTA MICHIGAN •# É New York City IDAHO •#÷# #• #• ÷# Black Corn #•Madison PENNSYLVANIA
Grand Teton •# Hills Badlands Palace Chicago #• É National Park WYOMING National #• Philadelphia NEVADA Park IOWA INDIANA Pittsburgh NEBRASKA ILLINOIS OHIO UTAH WEST
VIRGINIA It i nerar i es
MEXICO BAHAMAS
3 WEEKS Northern Expedition
For a different take on the transcontinental journey, plan a route through the north. From New York City, head southwest to historic Philadelphia, then continue west to the idyllic back roads of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Next is Pittsburgh, a surprising town of picturesque bridges and green spaces, cutting-edge museums and lively neighborhoods. Enter Ohio by interstate, but quickly step back in time on a drive through old-fashioned Amish Country. Big-hearted Chicago is the Midwest’s greatest metropolis. Stroll or bike the lakefront, marvel at famous artworks and grand architec- ture, and check out the celebrated restaurant scene. Head north to Madison, a youthful green-loving university town. Detour north to the land of 10,000 lakes (aka Minnesota) for a stop in friendly, arty Minneapolis, followed by a visit to its quieter historic twin, St Paul, across the river. Return to I-90 and activate cruise control, admiring the corn (and the Corn Palace) and the flat, flat South Dakota plains. Hit the brakes for the Badlands National Park and plunge into the Wild West. In the Black Hills, contemplate the nation’s complex history at the massive monuments of Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse, then make a northern de- tour to watch mythic gunfights in Deadwood. Halfway across Wyoming, cruise into Cody to catch a summer rodeo, then take in the wonders of Yellowstone National Park. Next, detour south for hikes past jewel- like lakes and soaring peaks in Grand Teton National Park. Drive back up north, and continue west through rural Montana. The outdoorsy towns of Bozeman and Missoula make fun stops between exploring the alpine beauty of Glacier National Park. After a few days out in the wild, surprising Spokane is a great place to recharge, with a pleasant riverfront and historic district sprinkled with enticing eating and drinking spots. For more cosmopolitan flavor, keep heading west to Seattle, a forward-thinking, eco-minded city with cafe culture, abundant nightlife and speedy island escapes on Puget Sound. If you still have time, the region has some great places to explore, including Mt Rainier, Olympic National Park and the San Juan Islands. COCOZERO / SHUTTERSTOCK © New York City Top: skyline (p75) Bottom: Snake River, National Teton Grand (p797) Park
LONEROC / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Itineraries
PLAN YOUR TRIP 40 41