2 Apparel Online India Apparel Online India 3 4 Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India vol. XVIII Issue 6
Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Editor ILA SAXENA Chief Response Editor VINITA PANDEY Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI June 16-30, 2015 Asst. Copy Editor CONTENTS SAHIL SEHGAL Asst. Editor-News DHEERAJ TAGRA Asst. Editor NEHA CHHETRI Sr. Correspondent-Textiles SANJOGEETA OJHA Sr. Correspondent-Fashion KALITA LAMBA Assistant Manager-Marketing & Advertising Subir Kumar Sr. Executive-Advertising D K Chugh Creative Team RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT Photo Editor SUMIT THARAN Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 Operation Director MAYANK MOHINDRA 12 20 24 27 30 09810611487
Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA WordWrap 09810058986, 9810438653 Time for Pink: Birth of the Princess to Head Office boost Britain retail Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. Already being tipped as a billion pound worth baby, the birth of 12 B-32, South Extension-I, New Delhi-110 049 Princess ‘Charlotte Elizabeth Diana’ is likely to benefit the British Phone: 91-11-47390000 economy by around £ 150 million a year... E-mail: [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online contact: 91-11-47390000 BusinessStrategy [email protected] Magsons Exports is now AEO certified [email protected] Similar to the SAFE framework of standard adopted by World Printing Customs Organisation (WCO), to secure and facilitate global TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. 18 trade, is the AEO certificate programme... B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. Zafar Marg, New Delhi-110002 Tel: 23378626, 23379686 ------Tex-File subscription FORM Indian mills have potential for larger share in Bangladeshi market Yes, I wish to subscribe to Apparel Online for Targeting to touch the US $ 50 billion mark in its garment by regular mail exports by 2021, Bangladesh cannot be underestimated as India Rs. 1800.00 24 issues 20 a potential market for Indian textile mills... by courier Delhi/NCR Rs. 2400.00 24 issues Rest of India Rs. 3600.00 24 issues International USD 264.00 24 issues H2F More difficult times ahead Name ______for merchant exporters Facing the heat of tough market conditions, losing control over Designation ______24 vendors and business, merchant exporters are increasingly Company/Institute ______finding it very hard to survive... Address ______Tel/Mobile ______E-mail ______Trends2016 Type of business Première Vision Spring/Summer ’16 Exporter Retailer Buying House Six complementary shows are brought together at one Any other (specify) ______place – Paris, where the entire fashion industry meets to vision the future of fashion... 27 Subscription within India- Send Cheque/DD to Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. B-32, South Extn. Part-1, New Delhi-110049, INDIA International subscription (in Dollar) - Credit Card using www.apparelresources.com FashionBusiness Telegraphic transfer to Bank Account No. 03192320003806 Sleeve-O-Mania:Unconventional sleeve (Swift No:HDFCINBB) with HDFC Bank, D-9, South Extn. patterns making way into the mass market... Part-2, New Delhi-110049. INDIA 30 Pattern-making is an essential element of garment design, and one crucial element is the sleeve...
6 Apparel Online India | June 16-30, 2015 7 Apparel Online India FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’S DESK… Garmenting is the driveR for growth in textile value Chain… It’s time Ministry recognized this!
Who should be made responsible for bringing All because it is not khadi, silk, linen or business to India in the entire textile value polyester by itself which sells, but it’s the chain…, of course it has to be the apparel ‘brands’ with which they are associated that sector… And why? The answer is actually very have made them popular..., it’s the consumer simple to understand… After all it is this sector who has been made to see a product that which is responsible to fetch a ‘price’ for all the appeals to his psyche and fits him or her values added in the entire textile value chain… well... A person walks into a Fabindia shop But does the Government, and especially not to pick up khadi or silk, but a Fabindia the bureaucrats, realize this? Probably not product, which has a perceived value for and why, because garment exporters and its the customer. Just adding an identity workers are scattered all over the country and tag like lycra, tencil or woolmark does hence are not the vote bank… This may sound not help, unless it is backed by hardcore harsh, but think about it! commercial marketing and branding to touch the consumer. The focus for the Government and consequently the Textiles Ministry has always Until we attach a commercial value to the been for the poor, and schemes which appeal to work being done by the handloom sector, their masses have been promoted and cleared… And plight will never improve... This can only be in the textile chain, the handlooms sector is done by the design houses that visualizes the the obvious choice for schemes and incentives synergy between the fabric and the garment, since the sector represents clusters of poor the brands who get the garments made and artisans and announcing of such schemes gets the garmenting sector, which manufactures good media time. the garments for the local and international But, does this ploy translate to any long-term brands... Look what Zara did for linen and benefit for the handlooms sector? I don’t think today linen has transformed from being an so and this ‘appeasement’ (please excuse elitist fabric to being a mass fashion craze! me for saying ‘appeasement’, but I have my The manufacturing and design studios reasons) has been going on for the past many which do the collections for the brands/ Governments with no result and the plight of retail segment has to be incentivized to use the workers still persists… Is it not ironic that handlooms in their collections, because the segment that gets maximum benefits and they are the ones who will promote, use and media attention is actually the worst off! educate the end-customer on the ‘value’ of Every fashion college worth a name has been products, and handloom will gain by default. sending students year after year to various Once the customer appreciates the products..., clusters across the country for projects in the the clusters will automatically upgrade, and name of enhancing the design skills of the artisan given their due, not only in revenue artisans, but the ground reality is that these terms but also in terms of recognition and visits have actually become a ‘nuisance’ for wider acceptability... It’s a chain reaction the artisans since they end up teaching the which has to start not from the bottom, but students weaving rather than the students top downwards, with garmenting leading from helping to add value to their art, also since it is the front. a compulsory routine…, the passion and intent But for this transit to happen, the mindset of is missing. the Government and with it the bureaucrats’ What can, and should be done? I give you a few needs to change... They have to think like teasers to think about... entrepreneurs and create linkages with enterprises which are involved in sales • Why Fabindia khadi and silk products are and marketing of the end-product to the so famously selling whereas the Khadi international market... Gram Udyog could never reach the same popularity as Fabindia? Will we see this change happening with the current Government...? Difficult to say, but we • Why polyester use has grown over can only propose that it should happen. As a the years? fresh thought, maybe we should be advocating • Why has linen become a craze after Zara for a separate ministry for garment sector, put it on their shelves? so the focus is more targeted and the • Why use of wool products has declined over Government is able to look beyond the first the years despite promoting wool for quality level of the textile value chain..., that too to under the Woolmark tag and other schemes? the advantage of all!
8 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 9 Apparel Online India mindtree
#apparelresources.com The Rajasthan State Pollution Control Board issued closure Deepak Vijay, CEO, Enn Enn Expo notices to 893 textile units in Sanganeer as they failed to International, Delhi install a CETP. Besides, the National Green Tribunal’s circuit First of all I must say that this is going to have Mind bench of Jodhpur has ordered the closure of 739 textile a big impact on export to traditional markets units in Balotra, Jasol and Bithuja till July 9. There was a like Japan and Europe. Sanganeer is the main similar crisis in Tirupur a few years ago... Why the industry centre of hand block and hand screen printing treeTOPIC OF DEBATE is not serious to such issues... Is closure of units a solution? at majority of the export houses since ages and India’s image as an exporter started with ethnic designs from there in the 1970s. Devi Shankar Khatri, President, RD Sharma, Proprietor, Pooja Dyeing, Pollution is a big issue and it must be taken The Sanganeer Kapda Rangai and Sanganeer (Jaipur) seriously but the printers’ and exporters’ Chapai Association, Jaipur Honestly speaking, all of us are responsible concerns must also be taken care of as this Closure of units is something that can’t for this situation, but I would like to add problem is delaying our production and be even imagined as it is the livelihood that we are not only doing business, we deliveries. I think NGT and Pollution Board of lakhs of people. Yes, environment are supporting the industry and helping to should give a final deadline, say 6 months to has been neglected, but all of us are sustain Sanganeer print. Although all the a year, and in the meantime the Government collectively responsible for this, be it delay stakeholders are coordinating with each of Rajasthan and the Centre should jointly in the approval for land or funding. We other, but along with environment we are look for alternatives. As per my information dedicatedly want to support environment suffering the most. Now there is an ultimatum the printing units have already deposited few and that is why we are coordinating with the to start our own ETP within 30 days in which crores of rupees to the department to make administration, the Rajasthan State Pollution we have to invest reasonable money. One has Effluent Treatment Plants in the vicinity of the Control Board (RSPCB) and Hon’ble High to understand that as we have grown from river. Many designers from all over the world Court. But, I must say that as 60 per cent hand print, an art (natural dyes) to a kind of are visiting Sanganeer to develop something of our units are very small and their daily industrial production for masses, we need new all the time and enjoying the homely consumption of water is just about 2,000 to support in all terms. Our business is affecting work ethics of the region. Business should not 3,000 litres per day so this issue has been a the environment but we don’t want it like that suffer and pollution must be controlled and little exaggerated. so we are ready to do whatever is possible. the image of Sanganeer must be maintained.
10 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 mindtree
Pradeep Nahata, MD, Karni Exports, Jaipur Mukesh Sharma, Director, Is it possible to install a Common Effluent Shree Dayal Exports, Jaipur Treatment Plant (CETP) by people who are in The closure of the units is not the solution; the industry for their bread & butter… It needs it would probably slow down the export Mind big land and more than Rs. 200 crore… will it market as well as the domestic market, which be possible to get that kind of money from an is already slow from last couple of years. tree industry which is just earning for its survival. Sanganeer used to be the big hub for the QUESTION printing units and it is a well known area all It is the Government’s duty to make the policy around the world for printing ethnic prints. and when any industrial area is being set up, In recent years we have seen Most of the export factories and domestic these infrastructural issues should be the an increase in the number of garment suppliers would suffer because of priority before allowing the units to operate. the closure of the units. Government should companies, particularly those I agree that environment is a big issue, and intervene and find a proper solution so working in the international we have to save it with our best efforts. It is that we could protect our strength in the market, going in for various the social responsibility of the Government global sector. certifications from GOTS towards the public who is living in surrounding It is the responsibility of every person related to WRAP to SEDEX to ISO, areas to provide clean water, but Government to this sector to help directly or indirectly policy makers never thought of this and besides the usual buyer’s to set up a CETP as most of this ‘untreated sanctioned any amount for this work earlier, compliance-related ones. Do you water’ is being used by the farmers nearby that’s why the problem is getting so big. for growing vegetables and other crops think that these certifications Closure of the units is not a solution; they need which is harmful for everybody. RSPCB is actually help in securing to be shifted to a separate industrial area and right as they have warned many times to business or is the move beyond provided with a treatment plant, so that the the units but due to budget problems it this agenda and is more to industry waste can be recycled for agriculture. was not implemented. We should be united improve and upgrade factories? Something needs to be done very soon to make at this time, otherwise all the printing sure that Sanganeer industry is not disturbed, units, exporters, garment manufacturers, What is your experience? because it’s a heritage industry and symbol of Government bodies would suffer in the Be a part of our latest discussions... printing in India…, we must save this industry! long run. Post your comments on www.apparelresources.com
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 11 worldwrap
Time for Pink! Birth of the Princess to boost Britain retail Already being tipped as a billion pound worth baby, the birth of Princess ‘Charlotte Elizabeth Diana’ is likely to benefit the British economy by around £ 150 million a year and in the future she could be worth a staggering £ 1 billion by the time she is just seven, reveal retail experts. With the arrival of Kate and William’s new baby, the British retailers are rejoicing as much as them as it will provide marketing opportunities to baby boutiques, clothing stores and fashion designers. Every trend the newest royal sets will prove to be a fodder for girls seeking to emulate the Princess.
ccording to the Center for With the new arrival, people are very happy Retail Research in Nottingham, so they will go out and spend money.” A Prince George provided £ 243 From the princess’s first public appearance million (US $ 368 million) boost to in a knitted cream bonnet to everyday the British economy in the nine weeks after wear for the rest of her life she will be his birth in 2013. But George was the royal From the followed as much as the Duchess and the couple’s first child, the heir to the throne. princess’s Prince. Retailers such as Mothercare, Asda, The Center predicts that the immediate first public Made.com and many more are cashing in impact of a second child will be smaller, appearance in a knitted on the baby’s birth by launching a wave of about £ 80 million (US $ 121 million) but the products such as pink babygrows, nursery fact that it is a girl, opens up a host of long- cream bonnet to everyday wear furniture, bibs and rocking chairs. Further, term opportunities. The royals have always Royal Collection Trust has unveiled its new been trendsetters. From Queen Victoria for the rest of her life, she will range of royal baby memorabilia, which to Princess Diana and the very recent be followed as includes coffee mugs, tankards, cradle Duchess of Cambridge, who is copied so much as the Christmas decoration made with white much that everything she touches, is dotted Duchess and velvet and embroidered with pearl beads, with the ‘Kate Effect’. the Prince. decorations in the shape of a lion and a toy This midas touch has followed Prince Retailers such rocking horse. All of the products feature George since his birth and even his first as Mothercare, lion and unicorn motifs taken from the public appearance, when he emerged from Asda, Made. Royal Arms of the United Kingdom as well the hospital snuggled in the swaddle, it com and many as oak leaves from the Middleton family became a topic of discussion for many more are crest, topped with the Cambridge ducal mothers, fashionistas and the world cashing in on coronet. Also, Marks & Spencer released in general. Within four hours of his the baby’s birth a range of commemorative biscuits, when appearance, the website of swaddle maker by launching the name of the royal baby was announced. aden+anais had crashed and within nine a wave of Only 2,500 biscuits were produced, each days the New York company had received products etched with a limited edition number. 7,000 orders for that particular item, a such as pink Moreover, Shropshire-based soft toy babygrows, maker Merrythought has had 200 limited 600 per cent increase. More recently, he nursery appeared in a blue Cath Kidston sweater furniture, bibs edition Teddy Bears made to celebrate the featuring soldiers in red tunics and bearskin and rocking Princess’s arrival, out of which 196 were hats, which sold out and then popped up on chairs. sold out within 2 days. eBay, at twice the price. Patricia Davidson, However, the retail surge is also expected Author and Fashion Consultant with to come from an influx of tourists, similar The Daily Mirror reveals, “When Kate to the birth of Prince George in July buys dresses for her daughter, other people 2013, which caused a 6 per cent like- will follow suit, just as they copy what Kate for-like sales increase. According to the wears. She won’t just be affecting the sale New West End Company, business of her clothes but also of children’s clothes. management consultants, the birth of the
12 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 worldwrap
princess on bank holiday weekend is likely to bring economic boost for the capital. As Jace Tyrell, Deputy Chief Executive Li & Fung to lose major chunk of its business as points out, “2013 saw London welcome Walmart resorting to direct sourcing 17 million international visitors and forecast Kate Spade & Co. also reclaiming sourcing rights of accessories shows that 2015 will see even more drawn Walmart is taking back much of the business it outsourced to Li & Fung to our capital. A royal birth always signals and is now increasingly going ahead with sourcing products directly from great pomp and pageantry and it is when factories. The move to buy more goods directly from factories comes as tourists see the UK at its very best. For Walmart, hampered by sluggish sales and profits, looks to squeeze costs the businesses and attractions, which help out of its supply chain. The retail giant has made business decision to shape the experience of visitors, it is a real transfer certain sourcing functions in-house and will work collaboratively privilege to be part of such a special event.” with Li & Fung to ensure a smooth transition over the next few months. The year 2013 was a record breaking year Some of this pullback has already happened and more is set to come for tourism and 2015 is also expected to in the coming time. Walmart operates 648 Sam’s Club stores, or about bring higher number of tourists to London. 12% of its network of 5,200 stores in the US, its largest market, while Meanwhile, retailers across London’s globally it runs about 11,500 stores. West End also expect a boost in business The Office Another major client of Li & Fung, Kate Spade & Co., is also taking as was evident in 2013, which saw a 3.7 per of National Statistics in-house sourcing of its accessories starting in spring 2016. Kate Spade reveals that in will continue to rely on Li & Fung to supply its clothing and to inspect its March 2015, products. Li & Fung said it doesn’t see a growing trend toward retailers the amount working directly with factories and cutting out the middleman. “We see it spent on the both ways – retailers are doing more direct sourcing and are outsourcing retail industry to us,” said Spencer Fung, Li & Fung’s Chief Executive. in Britain increased by Brait SE acquires New Look for £ 780 mn 0.7 per cent in comparison to South African retail baron Christo Wiese through his private equity the previous vehicle Brait SE has acquired 90% stake in UK fast fashion apparel year. This slight retailer New Look. Brait SE has acquired the stake for £ 780 million, rise is a result primarily from funds advised by Apax Partners and Permira, which of continuous managed the company since the last 11 years. The remaining 10% stake growth of will be held by founder Tom Singh and other members of management. year-over-year New Look CEO, CFO and CCO will remain with the company. estimates of the New Look with more than 800 global stores across 23 countries has quantity bought posted double digit EBITDA growth in recent years. It is also the leader in the retail in UK market value share and has strong growth prospects in France, industry, rising Germany, Poland and especially China, which is a priority market. New by 4.2 per cent Look also has a well-developed multi-channel offering via traditional Kate and William’s new baby girl Charlotte Elizabeth Diana in March from the previous stores and a fast growing e-commerce platform incorporating ‘click and year. With the collect’ options. cent increase in footfall across the West End, birth of the Diesel to open 120 new stores by 2018 with sales climbing 6 per cent compared royal baby the to same month in 2012. Industry experts momentum will Presenting 2014’s balance sheet, its financial situation and future plans, have predicted that the retail sector will increase. Renzo Rosso, President of OTB Group stated, “The group is solid continue to improve this year with rise in and we are working hard to redesign the Diesel brand from scratch in real earnings, improving labour market terms of a total upgrade and distribution network,” observes Rosso. and strengthening of consumer confidence. Diesel represents 65% of the Group’s sales and the Group has made Supporting this fact are the City analysts a bold move by cutting its distribution for about € 85 million wholesale who believe that the Royal Baby is likely to (about € 250 million retail). The company wants to give new energy have a positive effect on the UK’s growth in to this brand and Rosso shared that how Margiela, Marni, Dsquared2 general. While the retailers were preparing and the other brands are all growing and registered a yearly double months in advance for the big day, hoping the digit growth. By end of 2015, Diesel will sell about € 950 million and the royal baby’s birth will give business a lift at a management expects it to reach about € 1 billion by end 2016. time when consumer confidence is stagnant The major focus of the group is to concentrate on significant new store due to economic pressures but with the birth openings. Between new openings, redesigns and relocations, the of the Princess, the retailers are rejoicing company will open 120 new stores by 2018, which would be strong and and moving from ‘Prince George effect’ to the impactful stores. ‘Billion Dollar Royal’ as Royal watchers rush to buy similar babywear brands.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 13 sustainability
No lessons learnt from Tirupur Process HouseS’ closure fiasco... blatant violations continue May 11: Sanganeer (Jaipur) – Following a High Court order, Rajasthan State Pollution Control Board (RSPCB) issued closure notices to 893 textile units in Sanganeer as these units have failed to install a Common Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) and are discharging 17-18 million litres per day (MLD) of untreated chemical water into Dravyawati river.
May 15: Jodhpur (Rajasthan) – The National Green Tribunal’s (NGT) circuit bench of Jodhpur ordered the closure of 739 textile units in Balotra and its surrounding areas of Jasol and Bithuja till July 9 as CETP has not been functioning in adherence to the norms laid by the pollution control boards as far as the consent to operate and disposal of hazardous waste of the industries is concerned.
May 19: Kolhapur (Maharashtra) – Maharashtra Pollution Control Board (MPCB) proposed closure directives against the Metro Hi-tech Cooperative Textile Park at Kagal Hatkanangale Five Star MIDC, after it found gross irregularities in the way the firm treats effluents.
ou people want everything so we moved to the Supreme Court at a concessional rate and in 2009 the shifting orders were These are disturbing “Ylike land, power, etc., and cancelled. Immediately we asked land news, to say the least… also the right to tamper with the for CETP but we got land in 2013. environment…” These were the words Earlier we were being told to only Not only will this affect of the Hon’ble Rajasthan High Court, install a CETP, later we were asked business, but it only in a very recent hearing, and which for zero discharge system. Now we goes to reinforce what stuck to its earlier order directing the have started bid for CETP which is Pollution Control Board to close down supposed to be operational in mid environmental experts all polluting textile units working 2017, and will only be possible if we keep repeating… without a no-objection certificate get the full support of the Government. “Industry has total (NOC) in the Sanganeer block (Jaipur). More than 50 units have their The issue has been swinging back and individual ETPs despite that they have disregard for pollution forth around the High Court, Supreme not been given permission to function norms.” At many Court and power corridors of the as this area is not for commercial locations CETPs do not Government and bureaucracy from use. If we had got the permission to 1998. These 893 units are medium-level convert this particular place into a exist, even if installed, job-workers supporting Jaipur industry commercial area, adherence would they are not working; with dyeing and printing services. have been done earlier. Job-workers companies are not Now they fear that they may have to and associations are not responsible eventually close down. Though, they for this situation as from day 1 we following norms despite accept that they too are responsible want to follow the system, but there having resources…, all for the situation, but put the main is no clear guideline,” says Rajendra of which proves that blame on the Government. Jeengar, General Secretary, The The problem started in 1998, when Sanganeer Kapada Rangai and the processing industry a PIL was filed in the High Court Chappai Association having 685 has not learnt anything for shifting of polluting units from members. He is also hopeful that from the crisis of Tirupur Sanganeer, and in 2004 orders were once the CETP is operational, zero issued for the same. “Shifting was discharge will also be in place after which was also related never a solution from any perspective, two years. to water pollution. Stakeholders are vocal in blaming each other and no one is ready to take the responsibility… Apparel Online interacted with many of the stakeholders to understand and explore this highly complicated issue.
Processing units in textile sector are responsible for high level of water pollution in India
14 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 sustainability
Apparel Online also approached In Maharashtra, the Metro Hi-Tech one of the top bureaucrats who Cooperative Textile Park near is closely related to this issue, Kagal Hatkanangale Five Star MIDC Woodland, UNICEF continue WASH partnership and belongs to Sanganeer and is (near Ichalkaranji in Kolhapur Amongst the leading outerwear brand, Woodland marked familiar with all aspects of this district) spread in 100 acres is a its fourth year of support towards UNICEF’s WASH (Water, business, craft, technique and recent initiative where management Sanitation and Hygiene) programme in schools. For this culture. As the matter is sub judice, claims to have followed all norms, effort, Harkirat Singh, Woodland’s Marketing Manager, he requested for anonymity, but but on the complaint of villagers along with UNICEF’s Uttar Pradesh team members visited shared his view, “Current situation the MPCB (Maharashtra Pollution the rural primary schools in Mirzapur, Uttar Pradesh to see is due to collective ignorance, as Control Board) proposed closure the ongoing WASH projects. During the last four years, this business is present in the directives against the park. One Woodland has inspired its employees and customers to raise region for hundreds of years and senior person associated with the Rs. 1.5 crore million for the UNICEF WASH programme, is continuously growing, every park shared with Apparel Online helping to improve over one lakh children’s access to basic stakeholder should come forward to that a company by the name of hygiene, sanitation and water facilities in remote communities take responsibilities. At one time, Sudarshan Jeans, producing jeans and in more than 500 schools across the country. “We law enforcement agencies or bodies and terry towels was not following are united by a conviction that access to clean drinking didn’t focus on the issue, now they environment guidelines as they were water and sanitation is a fundamental building block for the have to do it at any cost.” releasing water without treatment development of children and their societies. We are proud Job-workers who are members of and in turn spoiling the name of the that with the support from our customers and employees, the the association are facing another park. Now a notice has been issued Woodland and UNICEF partnership has positively affected problem. “Earlier we had to give to the firm, and water connection has the lives of children,” informs Harkirat Singh. the association membership fees been disconnected. The company was According to the Human Development Index, Mirzapur of Rs 1.5 lakh, besides Rs. 10,000 processing 22 tonnes of terry towels ranks low, facing one of the highest open defecation rates per jigger machine and Rs. 200 per day. On the other hand, Suresh (79.6 per cent of the population defecate in the open). Also, per metre of printing table, but Laxman Patil, Chairman of the park in 2006, the Panchayati Raj Ministry listed Mirzapur as one now according to association’s claims that as the park is situated at of the country’s 250 most-backward districts. During the visit, new circular, all these three a level lower than the surrounding the Woodland team interacted with Panchayat members and ‘child cabinets’ at the Upper Primary School, Vidapur, Issues pertaining to violations of pollution norms are set to escalate as Gurgaon- Seekhad Block, Mirzapur. “The UNICEF and Woodland based process houses/printing and dyeing units have just recently received a partnership supports our goal of institutionalising hand notice from the pollution control board to submit a plan by 30th June to explain their washing systems, and supporting safe, sustainable water supplies in schools. When you integrate critical behaviours intention to install ‘zero discharge’ facility by the end of 2016. It is expected that such as hand washing and use of toilets, in the daily routine within next few days the same notice will be issued to Faridabad and other hubs. of children in schools, you can bring amazing results for The notice has been served in states where the polluted water is going into the children,” maintains Niloufar Pourzand, Chief of Field Office, Ganga or any other river merging with Ganga. S. D. Kheterpal, President, Federation UNICEF, Uttar Pradesh. of NCR Textile Dyers and Printers, informed Apparel Online that it will cost at least Rs. 4 crore and require 2,500 sq. yards of land for installing ‘zero discharge’ facilities, Kering releases Environmental P&L which is not possible for most of the small units. Ultimately the cost of processed account report fabric is going to increase by a minimum of Rs. 3 to 4 per metre. The Association is The French luxury goods company, Kering has published also in touch with experts and consultants for the best possible solutions. its Environmental Profit and Loss (E P&L) methodology in order to provide an open-source tool to encourage other payments have been just doubled. areas, the water of many companies corporations to understand their impact on natural capital in Though association is asking this gets collected outside the park, giving its newly released E P&L report. Initiated in 2013, the Group’s increase for CETP, but we are an impression that the park is not E P&L account reveals that of the total environmental impact, small players and cannot afford following norms. He also claimed that 93 per cent falls within the supply chain, with over 50 per cent of the impact associated with raw material production. Within it. If things had not been delayed Sewage Treatment Plant (STP) of the the supply chain, 26 per cent of the impact is associated we could have saved a lot of cost,” park is working properly; though he with raw material processing, manufacturing and product says a job-worker and a member admits there was little lack of water assembly, which accounts for 17 per cent of the total impact. of the association from the last for few days, but a report of MPCB 12 years and who did not want to says that it was not working for a While 7 per cent of the impacts are associated with Kering’s be quoted. Job-workers, who are long period of time. All the machinery, operations, including retail and of the total impact, 35 per not members, will not be able to along with the STP, were found lying cent comes from GHG emissions and 27 per cent from land continue here as CETP has capacity idle by the auditors. use. And finally, 25 per cent comes from leather, while 17 of 12.3 MLD accounting for only There is no point of getting into a per cent is linked to cotton. “E P&L measures environmental the member processors. In Balotra, blame game; what is required is a footprint in our own operations and across the Group’s Roopchand Salecha, Chairman collective approach to find the best supply chains and values it in monetary terms. The E P&L of the Balotra Water Pollution possible solution. One has to be analysis provides us with critical insights, highlighting where Control and Research Foundation honest towards environment and we can implement solutions to mitigate our environmental Trust claims that CETP is working also take responsibility to preserve impact,” informs Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability properly and issue is just because and keep natural resources free Officer, Kering. of unauthorized units. from pollution.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 15 sustainability
BIRLA CELLULOSE wins FROST & SULLIVAN Award Honoured with ‘Challengers Award – Large Business’ at Green Manufacturing Excellence Awards 2015
sed often, but rarely Head of Kharach unit were present were Ajay Sardana (Vice President understood, ‘sustainability’ on the stage to receive the prestigious & Head – Sustainability) and Uactually means changing award for Birla Cellulosic. Rohan Batra (Special Projects) the way we think about how we Delegates at the event were welcomed who spoke about Birla Cellulose’s use our resources and make small by Gowtham S of Frost & Sullivan initiatives regarding its commitment changes that have a big impact on who apprised the guest of the towards a sustainable company. nature and community. To this cause Assessment Model and Methodology Rohan’s presentation on ‘Product and with a mission ‘to assist the of GMEA 2015. He explained that Life Cycle Management’ was highly adoption of Green Manufacturing the assessment model is realigned appreciated wherein he spoke about Practices across Indian Manufacturing within four major areas and 13 the company’s efforts regarding Companies’, Frost & Sullivan parameters with each having a sustainability. “By 2017, pulp and held its 2015 Edition of ‘India weightage of 100 points, totalling to fibre business of Aditya Birla Sustainability Summit’ recently at 1300 points. The model also took into Group endeavours to become the Hyatt Regency, Mumbai. The summit consideration global sustainability industry leader for sustainable started with a full day of presentations reporting frameworks such as the UN business practices across its global from eminent speakers from across Global Compact. The assessment for operations balancing economic different businesses who spoke about Birla Cellulose that concluded had growth with environmental and their companies’ initiatives and takes its basis in their GMEA Assessment societal interests,” he shared. He on sustainability. This was followed Model that in turn derived its inputs further said that sustainable efforts at by an exciting evening of awards from the team’s interaction with unit’s Birla Cellulose are tested through Life where Birla Cellulose was awarded the personnel, observations in the plant Cycle Assessment (LCA) as a tool of ‘Challengers Award – Large Business’ and documents as seen/provided to monitoring and assessing progress. in the 2015 Green Manufacturing them. The Kharach unit had a score LCA assesses the environmental Excellence Awards category. of 823 for the entire facility. The impact associated with product, Based on the assessments conducted parameters on which the assessment process or service. At Birla Cellulose, at Birla Cellulose’s Kharach site and was done covered Business Strategy, it is conducted from cradle to factory. subsequently whetted by the Executive Governance & Ethics, Waste & “Birla Spunshades is the most Committee of ‘Frost & Sullivan’s Green Emission, Biodiversity, Energy & sustainable product in the market Manufacturing Excellence Awards Water, Materials, Human Capital that uses a unique dyeing technique. 2015, Birla Cellulose was awarded for Sustainability Supply Chain, Society In this dyeing technique, for 100 kg its excellent rating on pre-determined and Customers. fabric, water savings are up to 70 parameters of sustainability. Distinguished leaders spoke on litres per kg, effluent load is reduced H.K. Agarwal, COO for Pulp & Fibre diverse topics on sustainability. The by 70%, power is saved up to 3.5-4.0 Business and Vinay Bhalerao, Unit keynote speakers from Birla Cellulose KW and time is saved by 6-8 hours per batch, ultimately reducing processing costs with better production quality and profits,” declared Rohan proudly. On the other hand, Ajay presented an insight on ‘Employee Sustainability Initiatives’ at the Aditya Birla Group. “Employees are key drivers in steering Aditya Birla’s sustainability initiatives. Our company is an exciting world of global opportunities for professional growth with human care. The way we do business is just as important as the business itself,” said Ajay. He further asserted that for a sustainability programme to be credible and successful, the alignment, engagement and enthusiasm of
The team from Birla Cellulose receiving the ‘Challengers Award – Large Business’ in the 2015 Green Manufacturing Excellence employees – both managers and the Awards category workforce – are essential.
16 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 17 Apparel Online India businessstrategy
lways proactive in Duly signed between countries, its approach to new in the purview of the agreement, concepts in business, no goods are supposed to leave Jyoti Apparels has a factory until and unless they A are sealed. A new concept seen continuous growth with Magsons the support of professionals for the industry, an AEO is who hold key positions in involved in the international the organization. Inspired to movement of goods approved Exports go for the certification after by the National Customs attending a workshop on the Administration, which complies new provision, Magsons Exports with the WCO SAFE Framework put its resources together to of Standards or equivalent is now AEO supply chain security standards. acquire the certification as soon as possible. Having an Currently AEO is acknowledged AEO certification, signifies in the European Union, and certified that a company engaged in equivalent programmes have First Garment Exporter to be international trade of goods been introduced in countries certified for ‘Secure’ role in is approved by customs as like the United States (C-TPAT), compliant with the supply New Zealand (SES), Singapore International supply chain chain security standards and (STP), Taiwan (TWAEO), etc. this gives them the benefit “For Magsons, initially the of a simplified customs procedure was a bit difficult, procedure and reduced customs but now we have all the systems Similar to the SAFE framework of standard in place and also the support intervention. This also fosters adopted by World Customs Organisation of our supply chain partners,” transparency within the supply (WCO), to secure and facilitate global trade, is asserts Magu. chain as the company can be the Indian Customs Administration’s Authorised considered a ‘secure’ trader and The biggest challenge was to Economic Operator (AEO) certificate thus a reliable trading partner. convince the people involved programme, which provides export and import “There is a complete traceability in the back-end support at the businesses with an internationally recognized along the supply chain as the factory to detail every single quality mark indicating their secure role style number and the purchase movement, but through constant in the international supply chain and the order number of every resource factory visits by seniors, professionals and management, customs procedures. Magsons Exports, sister has to be mentioned in all the documents. One has to make the company was able to concern of Jyoti Apparels, is the first from the sure that the security system understand their concerns and garment export industry to receive this newly is taken care of, so that incorporated their feedback to constituted certification in India. Speaking tomorrow no one can say that I get a proper system in place. exclusively to Apparel Online, H.K.L. Magu, MD, wasn’t involved in the process “Once you put systems into Jyoti Apparels talks about the AEO certification of creating the final goods,” place, even when the owner and how it will benefit the company. claims Magu. will not be there, the system should be running,” reasons Magu. Being AEO certified gives a special status to companies as they enjoy various benefits in customs processes, import, export, physical surveillance, etc. With the certification there is only a 14 per cent chance of goods being inspected. Now the company is in the procedure of getting the logo for the certification just like GOTS and WRAP. The whole procedure of getting certified took the company 4 months and included numerous technical visits from the customs team. Though the certification is beneficial in many ways, still Indian manufacturers are apprehensive about it as it involves the customs
H.K.L. Magu receiving the AEO certification from the Directorate General of Inspection, Customs & Central Excise in presence of department. “People are scared K.J. Chaudhary, Additional Director General; Rajeshwar Singal, Additional Director; and Rakesh Magu, Managing Partner Magsons Exports to apply for it, they feel that
18 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 businessstrategy
“There is a complete traceability along the supply chain as the style number and the purchase order who is an number of every resource has to be Authorised mentioned in all the documents. One has Economic to make sure that Operator the security system is taken care of. (AEO) Tomorrow no one In 2005, the World Customs can say that I wasn’t Organisation (WCO), an organization involved in the process of creating of 178 Customs Administrations, the final goods.” adopted the SAFE Framework of H.K.L Magu, MD, Jyoti Apparels Standards to secure and facilitate global trade, which includes the concept of an Authorised Economic Operator (AEO) whereby a party when people from the customs given to only those companies will visit the factory they may which have a clean record engaged in the international start checking other things and quality products. If some movement of goods is approved also. But I have dealt with them company has been given by customs as compliant with the and the experience was very ‘show cause notice’ in the supply chain security standards, and good. They are facilitators of past then they don’t get this Core team given benefits, such as simplified the process; we found them to certification,” adds Magu. The responsible for AEO implementation at customs procedures and reduced be very friendly and helpful. AEO certification was awarded to customs intervention. People are scared of them for Magsons Exports by P.S. Mohanty, Magsons Exports... no reason. The last visit was Director General of Inspection, Consistent with the ‘SAFE by 10 people, everybody was Customs and Central Excise on Framework’ developed by the WCO, given different jobs and they 12th May 2015 in the presence the Indian Customs Administration went about the audit for final of K.J. Chaudhary, Additional has developed an AEO programme approval very professionally,” Director General; Rajeshwar that encompasses various players in informs Magu. The company’s Singal, Additional Director; and the international supply chain such past clean record at customs Rakesh Magu, Managing Partner, has also proven beneficial as Magsons Exports. as importers, exporters, warehouse owners, custom house agents, cargo the certification requires a Meanwhile, the certification Balkishan Chhabra, CA, forwarders and carriers. stringent due diligence process. has proved beneficial for Jyoti Apparels who led the team responsible for creating Magu acknowledged the Magsons Exports as well as systems as required for AEO efforts of his CA Balkishan, provided them a niche in the who was leading the team as market. Apart from this, the also the consistent dedication company focuses on quality Benefits and contribution of all staff and innovation in product members, including R.S. Bhatt categories which has resulted of the AEO who has been with the company in the company being awarded almost since its initiation and with a certificate from Superdry programme handles all their shipping and for their ‘dryfit’ product on • Low data requirement documentation work. Magu Innovation and Flexibility. • Low physical inspection also praised the cooperation of The company came at third Pratap, the compliance head of position this year just after R.S. Bhatt who has been • Reduced requirement of the factory. “The custom people Turkey and China, taking with the company almost Bank Guarantee were so happy with the way forward their last year’s success since its inception, and handles all their shipping and my team handled the process where they received an award documentation work • Reduced lead time for the that they even suggested that for performance in delivery. clearance of shipment we should do consultancy “Whenever they place orders, • Deferred payment of taxes work as our team has done a we suggest them styles. In brilliant job,” shares Magu. today’s time, business means • Clearance of goods (premium) He emphasized that since it performance. I will only get was a new process, a proper good orders, when I provide • Use of data of an entity from the understanding and execution good quality products, on-time data reserved for multiple works was very critical, which his delivery and overall coordination in customs team was able to successfully in performing operation,” achieve. “The certification is concludes Magu.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 19 Tex-file
Indian mills have potential for larger share in Bangladeshi market Targeting to touch the US $ 50 billion mark in its garment exports by 2021, Bangladesh cannot be underestimated as a potential market for Indian textile mills though the country’s dependence on imported fabric is currently decreasing. The very fact that the country is looking at doubling its garment exports in just a span of six years, while the growth in the textile segment during the same period will be much slower, will create a gap for imported fabrics. The critical question is..., are Indian mills geared up to grab the opportunity? Apparel Online spoke to a few Indian mills for which Bangladesh has always been an important market as also some garment manufacturers in Bangladesh to understand expectations from imported fabric suppliers, what are the problem areas and solutions thereof.
ccording to industry 20 years ago when there were their denim fabric to Bangladesh A watchers, the existing hardly any local companies as they have been nominated dependency of manufacturing denim and the by buyers. Mayank Jain, Vice Bangladesh garment industry industry was solely dependent President, Malwa Industries on imported woven fabrics is on imported fabrics. Anil Kumar, avers, “Bangladesh gains approximately 40% and the Country Head, Arvind Ltd. – importance for us since a same is expected to remain at Bangladesh shares, “Initially lot of our US/EU customers about the same level or might it was difficult for us to market nominate our fabrics, making it even increase over the next five our fabric as a large portion of compulsory for manufacturers years. As of now, the largest denim, mostly basic, was being producing garments for these portion of imported fabrics from sourced from China. Today hosts buyers to source from us. India to Bangladesh is in denim of international brands are Apart from this, many garment fabric followed by shirting and sourcing denim products from factories use our fabrics by suiting which includes non-denim Bangladesh; things have changed choice also. We are exporting bottom wears fabrics. In denim, drastically and while earlier it close to 2 million yards every 60 per cent of Arvind Mill’s was just basics and volumes year to Bangladesh and the way annual production capacity of from Bangladesh, now buyers the country is growing, we see a about 110 million metres (nearly are asking for fashion and value lot of potential in this market. 3.5 million metres), is exported addition in denim, which has Vardhman Textiles sensing the to Bangladesh every month. The created demand for our fabric.” dynamism of the Bangladesh company entered Bangladesh Out of India’s 28 denim mills, industry, set up its own office with its marketing office nearly the top 10 mills are exporting in the country five years ago to
Anil Kumar, Mayank Jain, Kulbir Kundu, Country Head, Arvind Ltd. – Bangladesh Vice President, Malwa Industries Country Manager of Vardhman – Bangladesh
20 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 Tex-file
penetrate deeper into the market and has since seen year-on-year growth of 15-20%. Standing at a Views of Bangladeshi Garment sales turnover of US $ 50 million in Bangladesh, the company’s Manufacturers on Imported Fabrics core thrust products are solid and yarn dyed shirting fabrics Md. Shahidullah Azim, insurance and in-land transportation cost along with stretch fabrics. “The Vice President, BGMEA which is additional cost for about US $ 0.10/ qualities running in this market (Bangladesh Garment yd. of fabric. till now are mostly regular Manufacturers & Exporters The big problem with imported fabrics is qualities in cotton which are not Association) lead time which is about 30 days, including transit and clearing time, which sometimes seasonal, and which can be used “In importing fabric from abroad we do face the buyer can’t allow us due to shrinking throughout the year irrespective some difficulties like the imported fabrics lead times. In that case, we are losing about of the changing trends. But sometimes do not meet the importer’s 60 days, including 30 days, for production slowly the market is graduating specifications or fulfil their requirements, lead time only to in-house the fabrics out of to more fashionable items as the etc. So, back total lead time, a maximum of 90 days. margins are becoming lesser in & forth fabric basics and fetching a good price replacement, My suggestion is that the foreign textile in volumes,” observes Kulbir etc. causes companies can make their warehouse Kundu, Country Manager either order and dyeing unit including laboratory in of Vardhman – Bangladesh cancellation Bangladesh under bonded warehouse who irrespective of cut-throat or stock license, so that they can move their fabrics competition of other supplying lot. In these in RFD (Results-Framework Document) countries is optimistic of cases, though form to the warehouse in Bangladesh maintaining same growth rate in suppliers and dyeing here to reduce the lead and future as well by expanding its ought to take transit time! customer-base and penetrating responsibility deeper into the market by but sometimes M. A. Mannan, leveraging its brand equity. a few of Managing Director, them defy the responsibility, especially Meek Sweater Ltd. India-Bangladesh those who do not have their local offices Every year we are importing more than US textile trade to be in Dhaka. Then, we have little to do to $ 5 billion worth of yarn, fabrics and trims re-looked hold them responsible as the payment from China, Hong Kong, India and other The potential growth of textiles is made beforehand. I think one of the countries and to import these items we are exported into Bangladesh solutions to this problem can be setting facing problem mainly due to delivery time, from India is hampered by a up of local offices in Bangladesh by the quality issues and additional price due to lopsided trade policy. While fabric suppliers. extended lead time. With regard to quality, 48 types of textile products the suppliers do not keep their commitment including finished garments from M. Rezaul Alam Miru, and as far as pricing is concerned, once Bangladesh are being sold in Managing Director, they realize how badly we need the fabric, India without any duty following Galpex Limited they start quoting higher prices by giving the free trade agreement signed numerous reasons which at times we cannot between the two countries, Now we are enjoying three-stage GSP question as we need to meet our deadlines yarn and fabrics exported from instead of single stage which also includes committed to India are attracting duties in foreign the buyers. Bangladesh. This disparity will fabrics. We face this certainly affect the domestic Basically problem garment producers/suppliers, as importing more with the China too is using the trade route fabrics suppliers who through Bangladesh to dump from China are nominated their products. and other countries is by the buyers Many mill owners strongly feel not making a as they fully that the Government of India big difference know our should use the diplomatic in price plight that it’s route to convince Bangladesh nowdays. mandatory to reduce the duty on yarn and Moreover, for us to buy fabrics sourced on large scale our locally fabrics from from India. Bangladesh should produced fabrics are now equally them so that also ensure that a certain competitive in terms of quality vis-à-vis they can increase their price by 10% to minimum quantity of the fabrics imported fabrics but in terms of prices we 15% vis-à-vis other suppliers. These issues and yarn sourced from India are not competitive because besides the impact our CM greatly and it’s we who bear was compulsorily used in the manufacturing cost, we have to cover the it and not the buyers. garments which are exported to India.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 21 tex-file
Tex Find Bhandari Hosiery Exports to invest Rs. 12-15 crore for a new line of fabric manufacturing
Ludhiana-based Bhandari Hosiery Exports is planning to set up a new line of multi- faceted fabric manufacturing units at its existing location with an investment of around Rs. 12-15 crore, to support its future growth in textile production business. Orange Fabric: Focusing largely on exports of garments with expertise The New in T-shirt, the company plans operations by 2015-16, the fabric 4 tonnes per day. Its apparel Sustainable to expand its presence in manufacturing capacity of the manufacturing capacity stands Fabric Europe and the US. As and company would go up to 10 currently at around 10,000 when the plant begins its tonnes per day from the existing pieces per day. one are the days Gwhen green was considered as the symbol of sustainability, today orange has Revenue at Nandan Denim up become the new green. 22.7 per cent Bangladesh – Created by Adriana second largest Santonocito and Enrica importer of Arena, the sustainable Nandan Denim Limited – and product diversification into Orange Fibre is Chiripal Group company and yarn-dyed shirting segment,” the India’s cotton company said. developed from orange one of the leading denim fabric Bangladesh is the second waste. In their home manufacturer of India noted 22.7 Nandan has also earmarked largest importer of cotton town of Sicily, the citrus per cent year-over-year surge a capacity expansion plan at from India. In the past industry wastes about in revenue in the fourth fiscal a cost of Rs. 612 crore which nine months till February, 700 million tonnes of quarter ended on March 31, will strengthen its domestic India exported cotton orange leftovers, and 2015. The company’s revenue market share, expand its exports worth US $ 510.26 million taking a cue from there, for the quarter climbed to business and an increased focus against US $ 698.88 million the two decided to Rs. 1,096.53 crore. “The growth on value-added segments. The in FY14. In 2012-13 (April- reuse this waste and in revenue is on account of company will become the largest March), Indian cotton turn it into something better scale of operations on denim manufacturer in Indian exports to Bangladesh useful, and hence the the back of capacity expansion, and the fourth largest in the stood at US $ 610.06 Orange Fibre was penetration in export segment world post expansion. million. China had been born. Orange Fiber is the largest importer of created by extracting Indian cotton over the last the cellulose from three years. Commerce the citrus waste that Minister of India, Nirmala gets discarded during West Bengal plans to invest Sitharaman informed that pressing and processing Rs. 26,000 crore in MSME and China had imported cotton of oranges. This is then textile sector worth US $ 696.5 million spun into fabric. But in the first 11 months this fabric has even Chief Minister of West Bengal package to the investors in the of FY15. more amazing qualities Mamata Banerjee has said that MSME and textile sector; the India exported cotton such as an ability to the Government is planning to MSME and textiles department worth US $ 1,912.95 to soften the skin, thanks invest over Rs. 26,000 crore for the has already launched a Rs. 200 China in FY14 and US to nanotechnology and crore venture capital fund. development of MSME and textile $ 2,237.38 million in FY citrus fruit’s essential sector. She also informed that The State Government had 2012-13. In April-February oil, it encapsulates to the the Government is formulating earlier generated employment 2014-15, India’s total fabric. The clothes are a separate textile policy for the for 4.56 lakh people in the MSME export of cotton stood not greasy and the skin state. The CM while describing sector in the last four years and at US $ 1,707.59 million. is nourished, and these development as a continuous with this initiative there would Vietnam is at third features are guaranteed process, said that the State be a huge improvement in the place as cotton importer for at least 20 washes. Government has set up synergies MSME sector, handloom, hosiery, from India. and offered comprehensive zari and many other units.
22 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 23 Apparel Online India HOME FASHION FUTURE
More difficult times ahead for merchant exporters
Facing the heat of tough market conditions, losing control over vendors and business, merchant exporters are increasingly finding it very hard to Among the strong merchant Increased prices and competitiveness survive. Ironically going exporters in home furnishing, across the globe has forced the in for own manufacturing, Adhir Kishore, CEO, Aquarian merchant exporter to play on lesser according to most, is not a International Organization, Delhi margins. Majority of the merchant deals mainly in bed sheets for the US exporters accept that their profits solution as it is not easy to market and is sourcing these from have been reduced drastically and run a manufacturing unit, vendors in Surat. According to him, continuous pressure to reduce price and with many existing “Competitiveness and individual is something that has no solution. manufacturers struggling, relation with buyers is the main thing “Depending on product and volume, the motivation is low. As that helps merchant exporters to many times we have delivered orders prices get sharper, buyers survive, even in today’s tough time. only for drawback duties, without If a company is financially strong, it earning even a single per cent of want lesser layers in the can easily support a manufacturer profit from the transaction, so one supply chain posing a and get the required products at very can understand the scenario,” says a threat to the future of reasonable rates. Nowadays market dejected Xavier Jayachandran, CEO merchant exporters. The revolves around cash circulation of Rock Impex, Madurai exporting prevalence of merchant and we manage it well. However, wide range of home textile products having a strong financial backup is and fabrics to many countries. For exporters is much higher of no use if one is not in the good survival, the company is continuously in the home furnishing books of his buyers, so most of the exploring new products from various segment as compared to things depend on the relation that regions and approaches its buyers the apparel segment and a company has with its buyer.” with these products in the hope of this is mostly because of Aquarian International had closed catching their attention. “Though the nature and diversity of down its manufacturing a decade we never restricted ourselves on ago, as it found greater flexibility and product offerings, in recent years products. While many of growth in being a merchant exporter, we have increased our focus on the merchant exporters are but now Adhir is planning to come developing and unearthing unique barely managing to survive, back into the textile industry in a big home décor and interior products to few continue to grow with way next year as he expects that next stay relevant, but it is not a fool- their strengths like healthy year market may be more positive proof solution as all depends on cash flow, strong relation and also because buyers are more buyer’s requirement. Approaching particular to work with companies new buyers as much as possible is with buyers, constantly having in-house manufacturing to the only way to expand business and offering new products, and better control not only quality but this is very difficult, but we have to lesser margins. also compliance issues. do it,” says Xavier.
24 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 While continuing to run business late, and since the buyer refused at all costs is acceptable to some, to accept we had no option as to there are few who feel that rather where and how to use it and were than accepting non-profitable and totally helpless in this condition,” difficult orders, declining a buyer shares Himanshu Maheshwari, Wide Range of is a better option. “Recently I had MD, Karina International, which Trims & Embellishment an order of few thousand bed is a combination of manufacturing Thread, Buttons, Elastics, Grossgrain/Velvet/Satin Tape, Interlinings, Battern Bourgh/Neck Laces, Belts & Other Garment Accessories. sheets but we refused because and merchant exports, while the the buyer was offering a margin garment segment is mostly direct of only 2 to 3 per cent, and doing manufacturing, home segment is it in an organized way with fully largely outsourced. Committing compliant factories was not a to variety under one roof requires viable option. These types of in-depth knowledge about that orders are spoiling the market product and the manufacturers of and by accepting them we are the same, which is not commonly giving in to the buyers who will available, because updates about now push us for nil margins,” such products is not an easy job. reasons a Mumbai-based Those who are able to keep an merchant exporter who normally intense watch get benefited. prefers to work on 8 to 10 per Timely delivery is among the cent margins. Mumbai is home biggest issues which is spoiling to many merchant exporters the game for merchant exporters and many of them started their and even forcing them towards business with manufacturing, manufacturing. Though such later shifting to sourcing and examples are not many but buyer handling. The only real are interesting. Sunil Mishra difference between a buying agent of Stallion Home Fashion, and a merchant exporter is that Panipat started his business the eventual products sourced 8 years ago as a merchant under its supervision is exported exporter but it was delivery in the name of the company issues that compelled him to and not by the company which start his own manufacturing manufacturers the product. 4 years ago. “Advantages like However, taking complete variety of products, which a responsibility of an order not merchant exporter has, can directly manufactured by the still be enjoyed as even after company, but exported in its having own manufacturing of name has many drawbacks and core products one can outsource a higher risk quotient. “We asked products that are not so common. for a container of towels from a Trading of some products and well known towel manufacturer manufacturing of core products is of Panipat but we got it 2 months the best option,” says Sunil.
“As a solution, I would like to say that merchant exporters should develop a strong relation with manufacturers also. For that they should try to book at least 40 to 50 per cent capacity of a particular factory. In such a case they would be able to develop the factory for social audit also which is a big issue nowadays, and it will be more difficult for merchant exporters to survive without it in the long run. Financial support to the manufacturers by merchant exporters is also something that is required.” {– Aristide Samuel, Director, Find Agencies, Noida, a Buying office specializing in Home Segment
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JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 25 26 Apparel Online India DIRECTIONS BY
Première Vision Spring/Summer ’16
Six complementary shows are brought together at one place – Paris, where the entire fashion industry meets to vision the future of fashion. The Première Vision Paris gives direct access and deep insight to the best that the fashion industry has to offer. It is a ‘must visit’ event, where 62,000 industry professionals from over 120 countries come together to share ideas, do business, work and build their new collections, and this year’s summer edition was no different. The biggest take-away trends include a luxurious take to linen where fibres get remixed with rich canvas textures, flecks of colour and coated handles. Uneven raised surfaces look to embossing and bubbled effects to create a new relief pattern across a range of fabric qualities. New rustics come through in softened towelling effects where a matted and dishevelled feel is added to the finish.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 27 DIRECTIONS BY
Outer & Overwear Tops & Shirts
Discover fabric highlights for tops and smaller items like shirts, blouses, tunics, dresses, tee-shirts, polos and undergarments, with the season’s plains, prints and fancies in wovens, knits, lace or embroidered. For decoration tops, lines would include continuous ones, dots and stippling, delicate hatching, freely sketched contours and thread-like lines. Designs will be drawn in flat planes, simplified fruits and flowers in three colours, thick outlines with a comic-book look, very precise botanicals and pictorial. For T-shirts, sweatshirts and polos that are translucent, ultra-fine jerseys in linen or cotton for T-shirts lightened to the point of transparency can be adopted. dFor compact fineness, ultra-clean cottons, impeccable mercerizing, fine and blocked knits, miniature or enlarged piques and small graphic jacquards like wovens are ideal. Fluid blouses and dresses that are light in weight would involve fine crêpes and colourful voiles, stripes playing on transparency or matt/shine. Shirts would be made up of linen voiles, chambrays, end-to-ends and micro-dobbies with a delicately rustic look. Semi-plains end-to-ends and stripes enlivened with yarn imperfections and long slubs.
This category includes fabric highlights for outerwear, in specific, jackets, suits, trousers, jeans, trench coats, parkas, blousons and other sleeved pieces with cottony, linen or synthetic plains and fancies, suiting, tweeds and compact knits, both chic and relaxed. For light summer coats, high-design rusticity, heavy aspects, thick yarns and enlarged weaves are the best-spectacular basket-weaves, simplified patterns and motifs. The outer- layer would include monochromatic ornamental jacquards or geometric quilting. Large pictorial florals printed on jacket-weight crêpes, thick piqués and rustic light canvas. For suits and trousers, chic linens, perfectly tamed linen with twool blends, delicate blurries, subtle colour and material vibrations will be used. Denim and casualwear fabrics will revolve around very fine neps and rings, crunchy linen blends. For knit denim, indigo softwear, backs like fleece, elastic suppleness and the raw ones would be in ecrus and mixes of sophisticated whites, painter’s-canvas coatings, supple linens/cottons and sturdy twills. The structured dresses and women’s trousers will include crêpes with tiny grains and springy fluids, viscose, synthetic or cotton blends, shivering surfaces bordering on a wrinkled-look.
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Evening Wear Technical Fabrics
Discover fabric highlights for the sport, outdoor, beachwear, activewear and workwear markets with innovative and high- performing knits and wovens. For chic outer/under layers, there should be more stretch in outer-layer pieces. A light crispiness for tops or ultra-flexible compacts for trousers, for go-anywhere comfort. Outer- layer knits feature the cosy roundness of super-stretchy double faces, 2 or 3 layer assemblies, with breathing and/ or waterproof properties. For tops and shirts, functional additions like anti-UV, anti-bacterial and fast-dry properties combine with ever more fashionable visuals. Where casual styles are concerned, cottons, linens and ramies infiltrate dthe outdoors thanks to more and more efficient waterproof/ breathable performance treatments, and wind-stop coatings. Polyamides and synthetics adopt more natural visuals, colour scrapings to age over time, imperfections, crackles and mineral textures in semi-plains. Cottony waterproofs are livelier and more casual, with somewhat poorly ironed and subtly rippling surfaces. For rainy days, prints are generously rolled out on all waterproof base fabrics with halo effects, blurry lights, dilutions and watercolour splotches, pearly powders.
This segment includes dressy fashion-evening, cocktail, bridal or ceremony, along with the most exceptional decoration, in silks, lace, embroideries, ribbons and festive tweeds.
Dresses with filtered transparency would make use of fabrics like evanescent laces, large or mid-sized flower motifs and colourful gardens. Cut-yarns in cut-out patterns, spectacular engineering, playing on emptiness and fullness and organzas with cut-out flowers, hollowed-out jacquards. The luxe styles would include precious raffias and cellophanes; ultra-supple rabanna with a vegetal shine, basketry weaves dotted with metal accents, knits like luxurious string, in a primitive- couture spirit. Playing on thick yarns, raw/translucent tsandwiches, hybrid jacquards and linen-y or cottony imperfection. The precious textures that are composed of the richness of handles and opulent textures would need embroideries with expressive handles, with thickly-drawn motifs, highlighted with macro-yarns or raw soutache. The simple ones will be made up of pared-down patterns and luxurious opulence, flattened and schematized florals in jacquards, lace and embroidery. Large graphic contours, deliberately outlined motifs and simple flat planes of colour lend to the category too.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 29 FASHIONBUSINESS Sleeve-O-Mania! Unconventional sleeve patterns making way into the mass market...
Pattern-making is an essential element of garment design, and one crucial element is the sleeve. For years, garment manufacturers have played safe and used the quintessential sleeve to make their product saleable and reach out to a wider range of consumers. But lately, with this wave of innovation and experimentation touching the industry, many designers and exporters have Kimono Sleeve with a slit at Alexander Mcqueen Structured Bell Sleeve at Bibhu Mohapatra 70s Bell Sleeve at Chloe started scooping in unconventional raditionally only looked the summer and fall collections. extra-long sleeve that finishes sleeve designs in upon as a part of a A structured bell sleeve looks inches past the wrist bone in their collections. After Tgarment which covers almost like a normal bell sleeve line with the trends of fluid dropping hints of the arms, sleeves have come a with either long or short flares and oversized fit. It’s an on their presence on the long way and now form a major towards the bottom. The only trend silhouette for knitwear S/S ’15 runways, five element in inducing character difference is the length and the and jersey knit tops where in a piece of clothing. For each amount it flares. Structured these long sleeves are created major unconventional garment worn above the waist, bell sleeve try and mimic the with knitted fringes as seen sleeve patterns the sleeves are one of the major butterfly sleeves with less flare in the S/S ’15 collection of have emerged as experimental style statements. and shirring. Inder Mohan Gareth Pugh. The more mass the must-haves Sleeves have mostly stayed cap Bhambri, Director, Srigan suitable version of this sleeve for the upcoming or straight, but now with the Exports, talking about the length works from a practical seasons. Picked up revival of the 70s, and drawing structured bell sleeves said, point of view because of its inspiration from many related “We are incorporating loose very tapered and structured from different era of movements, the following sleeves sleeves in our shirts for women. shape on the forearm, making style and fashion, we have emerged as optional picks. These sleeves are not very the sleeves stay put without present to you a range flared, neither are they too falling over your hands and of flattering sleeves Structured tight. These sleeves are fuller fingers. The runway versions which will not only Bell Sleeves than a straight sleeve and of the same showcased by narrower than a butterfly bell highlight the wearer’s One of the most visible trends the likes of Hood by Air, Rick sleeve.” best features but also this year is the throwback to Owens, presents sleeves which the 60s bell sleeve, but with a aren’t tapered, look overly tone down the flaws structured twist. Flattering on Extra-long Sleeves long, and therefore fall longer in the approaching the arms, the structured bell Another extraordinary sleeve than the hands. The extra summer... sleeves are a perfect choice for trend on the runways was the length looks luxurious, and
30 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 FASHIONBUSINESS
Traditionally only looked upon as a part of a garment which covers the
arms, sleeves have come a long way and now form a major factor in inducing character in a piece of clothing. For each garment worn above the waist, the sleeves are one of the major experimental style lines.
Kimono Sleeves Kimono-style sleeves and necklines are showing up on dresses and cover-ups in all manner of styles since the last 3 seasons, but what is different about these kimono sleeves are the slits in the mid. These kimono sleeves, also referred to as zippered kimono sleeves, are the hype this season, making many designers incorporate this detail into their collections. Whether the outfits are chic and colourful, hippie-worthy featuring oriental prints or graphically modern in stark black, kimono sleeves in all sizes and flare are being pointed out as the front-runners.
Extra-long Sleeve at Gareth Pugh Puffy Sleeve at Chanel Puffy Sleeve at Valentino Kimono sleeve are wide loose short or wrist length sleeves obtained from traditional visually elongates the arms, provided perfect examples babes. Recently seen draped in Japanese dresses adapted for creating proportions. Rocking for how to best execute this the arms of Chloe, Lanvin and today’s fashion. Kimono sleeves it as a conservative sleeve festive detail. A puffy sleeve Luisa Beccaria, the bell sleeves are the most popular sleeve variation, these are being can accentuate a tiny waist or appeared longer and relegated styles with the exporters and paired with high-neck dresses willowy frame by drawing the than their usual status. are being developed in three with shorter hemline and eye upward and conveys a sense Notified as the translation major varieties. Butterfly cropped tops. of confidence. Manish Sareen, of romance in sleeves, bell kimono sleeve, which starts at President, Sangar Overseas sleeves are statement-making the shoulder and becomes wider Puffy Sleeves confirmed the fact that puff in full-volume and fluted while coming down, not more As shoulders are emerging sleeves have re-emerged in the variety. Thanks to their than 4-5 inches; Long kimono as the new legs in the runways and have high chances notice-me nature, this trend sleeve, which extend below fashion world, designers are of being carried forward in the is attracting the attention of the wrist; and finally Short experimenting with crazy coming seasons. street fashion and high-end kimono sleeve, that are cut just versions of this feminine new brands. Abhishek Kochhar, under the shoulder. Agreeing puff sleeve trend. Puff sleeves 70s Retro CEO, Diamond Overseas to the greater demand for are a lighter version of pleated Bell Sleeves (India), discussing about kimono sleeves in the market, cap sleeves and peasant This is the flauntier and revival of bell sleeves said, Fabrice Capron, Designer, sleeves. Puff sleeves are so more feminine version of “We are working with young Rupayan shared, “We are versatile that whether it’s a the structured bell sleeve, contemporary fashion, which is mostly creating silhouettes fancy flounce on a little black translated in soft fabrics. The targeted towards the younger like loose blouses with kimono dress or a swell of fabric on 70s bell sleeve is probably the girls, not for ladies. And for sleeves.” Let’s hope to enjoy a vintage bolero, they make a only style of clothing that has them the product line includes, watching these sleeve trends in silhouette soft yet dramatic. the power to simultaneously beach cover-ups, kaftans, full blow in upcoming runways S/S ’15 runways at Chloe, conjure images of medieval mostly with bell, loose peasant and we wish to see them enter Valentino and many others maidens, and Austin Powers’ and kimono style sleeves.” into retail space as well!
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 31 fashionresource
GAP collaborates for innovative The Olsen twins prints win 2015 CFDA Award or its latest Fcollaboration, the ary Kate and Ashley American retailer has come MOlsen have won their up with The Remix Project second Best Womenswear Wearable tech that involves them working Designer CFDA Award now in Leviʼs Jeans with a series of emerging after their win in 2012, for artists to create an exclusive their label The Row. They oogle Glass as a search- collection of limited-edition beat stiff completion like Gengine giant has prints on T-shirts. Fantasista Proenza Schouler, Michael partnered with Levi’s for Utamaro and Yuka Choco Kors, Marc Jacobs and a new endeavour – Project Moo from Tokyo; Lin Zhipeng Joseph Altuzarra for Jacquard, a high-tech clothing from Beijing; Candy Bird the win. Tom Ford took initiative between the two. The from Taipei; Loic Lavenu American denim brand has and Maud Vantours from developed one-of-a-kind fabric Paris; Kyle Pierce from with smart technology, woven San Francisco; Jessica into the garment. Both, Google Hische from LA; POSE from and Levi’s are vague on the Chicago; and Neville Brady details as yet; stating that the and Quentin Jones from technology is sound and what London are some of the the garments can do depends big names that they have The on the apps that are created worked with on this. The for it. “This isn’t a launch, it’s Mod collection is available at a platforming opportunity. It Mini Gap’s Oxford Street flagship, becomes a home to new forms Boxpark Store in Shoreditch, and applications we haven’t and online. thought of yet. The potential Being borne out of home the prize for the is that the input is the gesture complete contradiction Menswear category while – crossing your legs, swiping, to the 70s maxi, Mary this year’s accessories saving, lifting.” Paul Dillinger, Quant was the genius gong was awarded to Vice President of Innovation behind Twiggy’s Tabitha Simmons. The for the Levi’s brand said. The iconic mini skirt that Swarovski awards for new sensors could also ‘alert was introduced in the most outstanding the wearer to weight gain,’ the 60s, only to gain emerging talents went Grant Hughes, Founder of momentum a decade to Rosie Assoulin for software development company later. Designers at womenswear, Hood by FocusMotion, said, and might the Fall 15-16 shows Air for menswear, and also ‘recommend a workout or moved away from the much-talked-about bag provide a discount at a gym or boho chic and went label Mansur Gavriel for yoga class… helping people for thigh-skimming accessories. live healthier lives.’ A-line shapes in dresses and skirts. Louis Vuitton, Emilio Pucci, Carven, Cédric COLOUR STORY A/W 15-16 by FASHION FORWARD TRENDS Charlier, Giambattista Valli, Topshop Unique, PANTONE 18-4045 TPX Jonathan Saunders, all styled their minis with turtleneck knits and the fabrics ranged from PANTONE 14-0846 TPX patterned shiny leather, wool, neoprene and embellished. The mod PANTONE 17-1937 TPX mini came to life with layering of short coats and knits and the skirts PANTONE 19-1759 TPX varied in terms of being button up, belted or zipped up at the waist. PANTONE 15-2718 TPX
32 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 33 Apparel Online India ValueAddition The Glitter Effect Different ways to achieve shine and shimmer in garments...
Razzle-dazzle, glitter, gloss e it McCartney’s sporty or sheen – whichever B silhouette metallic dress way you want to describe toughened up with black the trend, the inclination ankle boots or full-on glitz ensemble towards shimmer is at Dolce & Gabbana, the upheaval of here to stay. Seen in a the shiny surface was clearly visible plethora of versions on in the Fall and S/S ’15 collections. the runways, red-carpet- Moschino showcased acid wash denim mixed with the flashiness of worthy gowns and streets, a gold lame fabric creating gold and metallic shiny surfaces are denim patchwork overalls, whereas, continuing to be eternally Gucci, touched down the seventies alluring and pushing with pleated skirts in lame, lurex the designers and and leather. Giles presented a black garment manufacturers and white lace and leather-made to experiment with tough-chic bedfellows in strictly different techniques tailored jackets, skirts and ruffled to achieve the glitter lacy blouses. effect. The over-the-top With layers getting lighter, it is glamour statements just the right time to celebrate spring made famous by the time dressing with a healthy serving popular faces of the 70s of sparkles and many techniques are getting translated in such as usage of shiny fabrics adaptations of sequins, like lame, sequin as the base, foil glitter, lurex and lame, as printing, beading, embroidery can designers are still trying be put to action while achieving the to keep the opulent and same. Niraj Pugalia, CEO, Silver sophisticated spirit of 70s Apparels, building on the same said, alive. With glamorous “We mostly do heavily embellished garments, by using sequencing glitter decorating the and beading as a technique on silk bases for skirts and and viscose. Year-on-year different dresses, the fashion machines are being launched team at Apparel Online which are helping us achieve cost- takes you through the effective sparkle effects. We also use different tried and tested variety of hot spangle and sequin techniques to achieve combinations to accomplish the Glitter achieved through multi-coloured sequins the perfect shimmer... desired glittery feel.”
34 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 ValueAddition
The shiny surface has started to woven; besides knitted metallic with fabrics, printing and heat grow popular amongst different fabrics are also available and are press stones, but still sequin is buyers, the reason why many gaining popularity. Glistening silk not completely forgotten and new exporters are trying different organzas and high-tech fabrics colours, types and application of methods to give their unique touch with a luminous glow, lame, shiny sequin has kept the technique alive. of sparkle to their collections. One viscose-lycra mix are some of the Also adding the trend is technology such technique is foil printing. new ways that create a shiny base to with new machines both embroidery From sophisticated maxis to chic start with. and sewing machines offering option sundresses, foil print is getting Lurex inserted checked dress, for application of sequin. bigger and better. Foil printing elaborate brocades and shiny Arriving with the concept of is achieved by using heat and jacquards, and polyesters with everyday sequin; sequins are being pressure in order to let any design plastic details are a few variations used in a much more mature and stand out from the rest with added that design boutiques and exporters elegant ways in comparison to the brilliance and depth of the shine are creating to maintain uniqueness. playful and bright, past applications, left behind. Many designers like Discussing about the growing signifying only party wear. Talking Mary Katrantzou in their S/S ’15 demand for shiny aspect of fabrics, about the use of sequin along with collections stepped over minimal giving thrust to fabrics like brocades other techniques to create the neutrals and bold prints, to give and jacquards, Atul Mittal, MD, required sheen, Uneet Chhabra, way to seriously superb futuristic Bharti Udyog said, “The trend is Director, U & I Exports Pvt. Ltd. shine. Sachin Kumar, MD, Shobha now more towards shiny designs said, “We are primarily into beaded Designs, screen printing service and patterns. Till last season, the and embellished evening wear; provider, speaking in favour of foil trend was towards the minimalistic therefore, glittery adornments, printing said, “We do all kinds of approach but suddenly there is an value-added products with beading techniques in printing and the most upheaval of glistening fabrics in and sequences are our USP. We popular is the pigment printing domestic as well as export market. are doing a lot of hand beading and sequencing along with hand painting, and putting together different shiny fabrics for the dazzle effect.” While sequins may rule the dance floor and beading may have taken over the evening wear segment, zari and shimmery embroidery is still stunning and is getting incorporated in the collections of many designers and exporters. Interestingly, even western wedding wear is seeing the bling effect and the recently concluded ‘May Runways For Bridal Fashion’ saw use of various techniques for the glitter effect. The likes of mirror work, appliqué work, and resham embroidery are trending in different collections being offered to international brands. Rachit Poddar, Naeem Khan Mary Katrantzou Zac Posen Director, Cheer Sagar Exports, explaining about the use of embroidery to bring out the glitter and foil printing. Other techniques We are developing interesting and feel said, “We are doing a lot of value might come and go, but the craze innovative range of jacquard fabrics additions and glitter is of prime and demand for foil printing doesn’t in shiny and glittery surfaces to importance. We try to add value in seem to mellow down.” meet the demand.” each product. Even if it is a print, Another technique to achieve shiny While talking about shine and we would like to add some glamour surface on garments is by means shimmer, one element that cannot and glitter to it. We are doing lot of of metallic coating, be it pigment, be ignored and has fascinated things in embroideries, mirrors and acrylic or polyurethane coating, designers for ages is ‘sequin’. Sequin beads. We use neutral colours and every medium shields the fabric with is the essence of creating a shiny try to bring in the rich look through a transparent film which imparts surface and has been crowned as embellishments in brighter tones. the fabric a metallic shimmer or a the sign of bling since ancient years. The effort is to create combinations laminated leather-like effect. Moving Though exporters are moving ahead of Indian embroidery with ahead, achieving shiny surface is not of the archetypical ways of attaining modern technology and futuristic restricted to techniques like coating, shimmer and are experimenting colours in high-street silhouettes.”
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 35 INDUSTRYWIRE
details of the required machinery will be Paam Inc. shifts to new finalized soon. and bigger factory “Our main markets are in Europe, Australia and the US, and we are expecting at least Nitara bringing During this difficult time when buying 25 per cent growth as we are now more value addition has slowed down, companies are working organized. We also plan to participate in in-house; will hard to grow and some are even expecting more sourcing fairs and are in process to good results. Delhi-based Paam Inc., which add new buyers in existing markets,” shared soon install earlier had its unit in Noida Sector 4, has Ankit Sadh, Partner of the company in a digital printer now shifted its factory to a bigger premise conversation with Apparel Online. More than covering 10,000 sq. feet in Greater Noida. a decade old, the company has a capacity of The company is also planning to add more producing 20,000 garments per month like machinery to enhance its capacity; the blouses, skirts, beachwear, scarves, etc. Apparel Online has always propagated that having most processes in-house are beneficial and today more and more companies are bringing processes in- Pret Collections enters house for the advantage. into domestic market Nitara, a Delhi-based Pret Collections, a Noida-based export apparel export firm house has entered into the domestic having factory in Noida, market and is expecting good business has recently brought from the same. Ashwani Dass, Partner of value addition in-house the company shared, “The main purpose by installing laser cutting of launching our domestic brand is to and hot fix machine; the showcase our product line which we are unit is now looking to also already exporting with specialty of hand add digital printing within embroidery. We are catering to upper the next three months. middle-class and they like our products as “As we are now capable of these are more of international styles. We are giving products which were offered in India by international labels only. As it is the first year, we just want to make a mark in the market.”As of now, the products are Some garments from Pret Collections for the domestic market available on e-commerce sites as well as In exports, the company’s main business is on the company’s own site. Later on, the in the Latin American countries like Brazil, company has plans to enter into the brick Chile and Europe. Looking at the current and mortar stores also. market scenario, the company does not Currently, the company has 200 stitching expect much growth in export market, but machines and it is devoting 10 per cent is enthusiastic of the domestic market as
Value added product of Nitara of its capacity for domestic market. they have niche products for the market.
investing and managing all these systems in-house, we have planned to invest Sedex certified. “We want to approach almost Rs. 1.65 crore in new buyers, as having a compliance machines for value addition. Omkar Corporation going certificate like Sedex will definitely With this we will have for Sedex certification help us,” shared Manoj Dnyanmothe, better control not only President of the company. More than on quality, but on cost as Recently, India has been declared as the 1½ decade old, Omkar Corporations well,” says Tarun Mittal, fast growing country applying for GOTS has also done necessary changes in its Director of the company. certification, registering the greatest unit to get this certification. Apart from increase (338) in GOTS certification in 2014, Apart from this, the that the company has also gone in for which proves that not only big companies, company which was earlier automation with an investment of Rs. 5 but even medium-level firms are moving working only with Europe, lakh. Exporting home textile products to towards sustainable initiatives without has now focused towards the US and Europe, the company started buyer’s pressure as they strongly feel that it the US also and in the garmenting (men’s and women’s wear) will enhance the probability of orders with last few months it has got last year which is now 30 per cent of its them. Other certifications that are gaining reasonably good response total business. “As it is still in primary popularity include Sedex. from the market. stage we are increasing our grip on the Mumbai-based Omkar Corporation is segment and are confident that it will among the companies looking to be grow,” concludes Manoj.
36 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 37 Apparel Online India INDUSTRYlive
Garment NAEC-Yuva Manch Exporter Ritika supports Nepal Sharma of it is official. Ritika Sharma, Apparel Online tried to quake victims Blessing Exports Promoter of Blessing Exports, speak to her but was informed has a Swiss account, claimed that she is out of India while claims to hold upport for earthquake- a news agency. According to Kartik Sharma, Director of Swiss Bank affected Nepal continues the sources, Blessing Exports Blessing Exports disconnected S account from the Indian apparel is having more than 300 the phone without commenting. industry. Noida Apparel Export machines in two factories in Another name in this list which Cluster (NAEC) and All-India Noida, which are just utilizing ho says Indian exporters also belongs to Indian textiles Marwari Yuva Manch (a 20 per cent of its capacities, Ware not making money, industry is that of Yash Birla, voluntary youth organization) but as Ritika is into real estate though it’s mostly from side Chairman of Yash Birla Group. together recently sent almost businesses..., but is it not a also and her father-in-law was Though the Group says that 150 kits costing Rs. 500 per happy connection that a Noida- a doctor in the US, they are there is no individual account in kit to the Nepal relief efforts. based exporter has a Swiss claimed to be having plenty Yash Birla’s name, his company These kits contained blankets account. Though there had of unaccounted money. Ritika Birla Transasia Carpet Ltd. and tents. “We wanted to been whispers of the possibility also has a company in the (BTCL), which is majorly into support them with these two for the last one year, but now name of Blessing Apparels. carpet business, is under fire. things as these are very much required. Our support will definitely help them,” said Uday Sehgal of Mariko Plus who is associated with Marwari Yuva Munch. Neeraj Pugalia Have ‘acche din’ of Silver Apparels and also for Textiles and weavers of Varanasi Handloom good facilities and support from associated with the Munch Apparel Industry Cluster under CHCDS for the Centre, then we’ll assume and Lalit Thukral, President come? skill development), and the that we’re moving in the right of NAEC also supported the ATDC is also under Ministry’s direction. We want to improve initiative actively. surveillance. the number of weavers, and hen will ‘acche din’ of This is the question that they should not have any kind Wthe textiles and apparel Apparel Online asked the of complex about their work 15 per cent industry come...? There is still Minister of Textiles (I/C) and feel uncomfortable.” more orders high import duty on imported Santosh Kumar Gangwar at a In his 22 minutes long speech, for hosiery fabric, common textile policy is recent press conference and he there was nothing said about manufacturers still a dream, labour laws have answered, “I feel that ‘acche din’ the apparel industry apart in Ludhiana not been changed, NAREGA of textiles industry have already from 20 textiles parks being has not been connected to the begun that’s why we are here for processed in the first year of oming season for textiles industry even though the first time after one year to Modi Government. Further, CLudhiana-based hosiery the Textiles Minister personally talk about the work done by us in Textiles Secretary S K Panda manufacturers seems positive requested for the same to the PM, the sector. ‘Acche din’ of textiles informed that textiles exports as orders placed at Buyer- the Ministry has scrapped its own industry will continue as we were in 2014-15 stood at US $ 41.4 Seller Meet (BSM) this time project in Varanasi (engagement talking about weavers, artisan billion as against the target were at least 15 per cent of lead designers/design house and workers in powerloom, if of US $ 45 billion. For the more than what were placed and new designers for handloom they will feel that they are getting current fiscal, target is US during previous years. Five- $ 47.5 billion. He also added day long two BSMs were that Textiles Ministry has organized by local associations
requested the Ministry of
Knitwear and Apparel
Textiles Secretary S K Panda informed that textiles exports in 2014-15 stood at US $ 41.4 Commerce to continue Interest Manufacturers Association billion as against the target of US $ 45 billion. For Subvention Scheme as it is a of Ludhiana (KAMAL) and the current fiscal, he shared that the target is US must to remain competitive Ludhiana Apparel & Knitwear $ 47.5 billion. and to continue providing Manufacturers’ Association export benefits for exporting (LAKMA). These BSMs were to non-traditional markets. visited by almost 3,000 dealers He accepted that more money from across the country. The is required for Technology industry experts attribute the Upgradation Fund (TUF) reason for these orders to the scheme and he shared that Diwali festival in November. he was already in touch with After Diwali, the season of Secretary of Expenditure for marriages will start that will the same. The Ministry has continue till December. All sought Rs. 13,000 crore for these factors significantly
Minister of Textiles (I/C) Santosh Kumar Gangwar with his team addressing questions from the press on TUF for the 12th Five-Year Plan affect the orders from across completing one year in office (2012-17). the country.
38 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 INDUSTRYlive
Rajasthan Skill and Livelihoods Development Home Furnishing Sector by Corporation aligning their course curricula signs MoU with to the National Occupational AMH SSC Standards (NOSs) of the AMH SSC and shall be assessed and certified by the AMH SSC. he Rajasthan Skill and TLivelihoods Development The certifications of the Corporation have recently AMH SSC, which has been signed an MoU with the Apparel formed by the NSDC would Made-Ups & Home Furnishing have National/International Sector Skill Council (AMH SSC) Recognition and would help in Jaipur. The MoU was signed the youth of Rajasthan to not by Gaurav Goyal, IAS, MD, only get employment in the RSLDC and Roopak Vasishtha, country but would also become CEO, AMH SSC on behalf of their eligible for international respective organisations. Under openings. This step would the agreement, all the training also immensely contribute providers of RSLDC across to the ‘Skill India’ and ‘Make Rajasthan shall get aligned to the in India’ Missions of the AMH SSC for the skill trainings Government of India and of in the Apparel, Made-ups and Government of Rajasthan.
The MoU was signed by Gaurav Goyal, IAS, MD, RSLDC and Roopak Vasishtha, CEO, AMH SSC on behalf of their respective organisations
Workshop at Shahi Exports, were no hardcore technical or Faridabad heavy intellectual discussions. “These trainers were retired persons from army background hahi Exports, India’s number and shared a lot about human Sone garment exporter, practice which enlightened the recently organized a two days participants. With different workshop/training in NCR where games we got ideas for better 3 trainers of Bangalore-based coordination and different Pegasus Consulting discussed thinking. In total four games and played various games were played during the day,” with middle- and top-level shared a senior staff of Shahi management staff of Shahi. who took part in this event. The workshop was focused Shahi does a lot of programmes on ‘building quality culture for its employee engagements. in the workplace’. Almost 60 As various levels of staff were staff members including senior included in the workshop they managers, VPs (2 batches of 30 became more open to each other, each) took part in the workshop which will help them in better and it was like a learning as communication during their well as ‘picnic’ for them as there daily routine.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 39 INDIACANVAS
Sustaining livelihood through ISDS Modelama Skills focuses on community mobilisation
eing the lead implementation employable and help them secure In India, the textile Bagency under ISDS, Component decent work. With the constant demand II in the apparel and garment sector, from the apparel industry for skilled sector accounts for Modelama operates various training labour, it becomes even more important the second largest centres in Delhi-NCR, UP, Rajasthan for the industry to initiate such share of employment and the North-east. Based on the most programmes and develop the skills of common job profiles in the apparel the workforce to fill the gap. According after agriculture but industry, the company provides to the National Manufacturing with technological relevant courses in hand embroidery, Competitiveness Council (NMCC), there modernisation being basic sewing machine, basic sewing is a need to create 7-8 million jobs the key to high operator, supervisor, checker, quality in the manufacturing sector, even to assurance and industrial engineer. remain at the present unemployment intensive growth, What makes this initiative unlike many level. As per this report, a large labour-intensive already existing in the industry is a number of people will shift from industries like textiles strong and motivated team driven by agriculture and they could be employed the commitment to change conditions mainly in manufacturing sector as require not only at the grassroots through community most of them do not have the skill set skilled workforce but also vocational training for “For initiatives such as skill development, knowledge building. a strong inclusive Under the Integrated team management is required where Skill Development people need to Scheme (ISDS), believe in what they are doing. I can Modelama Skills Pvt., make any process Ltd. is partnering I want to, but if my with the Government trainers, mobilizers and people on the for many Central ground don’t believe and State Skill in what they do, then they will never be development motivated to do it,” schemes, being Vineet Lall, Director, presently run in Modelama Skills Pvt. Ltd. centres across India.
In an exclusive mobilisation and getting them jobs required for employment in service conversation with in the apparel industry. Good admin sector. It has been further emphasized Apparel Online, support, robust MIS, an efficient HR, that the apparel sector will be the main etc. provide a foothold to Modelama’s sector for providing employment to Vineet Lall, Director, initiative on the ground. “For initiative these people. Modelama Skills such as this, a strong inclusive team Pvt. Ltd. shares management is required where people Challenges of enrolling and retaining trainees... the challenges need to believe in what they are doing. I can make any process I want to, but if Through IT-enabled systems, associated with my trainers, mobilizers and people on Modelama Skills has direct control skill development the ground don’t believe in what they over the people enrolled in the and the constant do, then they will never be motivated to trainings, the quality of the follow- do it,” argues Vineet. need for the ups and the mobilisation of the One of the major challenges of skill community. The company also has a industry to support development initiative is to address reporting system which helps them such initiatives. the needs of huge population by to analyze the programme in three providing skills in order to make them parameters, namely the reasons for
40 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 INDIACANVAS
People can learn how to stitch but ability to withstand production
targets is not everybody’s cup of tea. We need to soften the landing to the industry and make them stay for 2-3 months. If they see the environment and our policies, then they invariably stick on. dropping out, spending less Involving industry the family. Also, the company Integrated Skill time at the training sessions for employment is pushing for the ‘jail’ project, and ways to make the course opportunities... i.e. training the people in the Development interesting. The company has jails in order to provide them Scheme Apart from enrolling and data sets for the percentage of livelihood options when they (Ministry drop-outs, people spending less retaining people during leave from there. “We can create time in the courses and people courses, it is also important for a system where people in the jail of Textiles) not coming for assessment. them to be inducted into the are able to make a kitty which Despite providing free trainings, system, i.e. get placed. This is we can directly link it with the • Address the trained Modelama’s skill development where the role of the industry bank and give them loan when manpower needs of textiles and training programme is is crucial! Though there are they come out or organize and related segments, some people in the industry marred by challenges such placements. If the jail allows us including handicrafts, with active HR departments as the difficulty to first enroll to follow the guidelines of ISDS, handlooms, sericulture, people and then motivate them and involved owners, who know the industry also has to come jute, etc. by designing to continue and complete the what the labour needs and together for such an initiative course. The company tracks maintain excellent interview as mobilisation is a huge task,” an integrated framework the drop out through a ‘calling records and analysis but maintains Vineet. of training based on the these numbers are only few. remarks’ system where they Taking note from countries industry needs. “We keep saying that we don’t investigate and analyze the such as Myanmar and Ethiopia understand our labour, but • Increase the employability reasons for dropping out from who are aggressively training have we tried to understand the programme. “People are so their workforce to tap the of the residents of the them,” questions Vineet. The diverse and the opportunity cost huge market for apparels, target areas. other thing is to acclimatize the is so huge that I have to literally Modelama’s initiative needs to workforce with the production hold on to every person. We help be lauded and supported. “Now • Ensure that the scheme is pressures of the industry, which them to see their benefit, more China is thinking of quality and designed and implemented is quite demanding. “People than what they themselves can when they start focusing on in such a manner that it can learn how to stitch but see. But we want to add value at quality then we have had it! We ability to withstand production spans a wide range of every step and say why not? If are very complacent of the fact targets is not everybody’s cup skill sets. this has not happened then what that they can beat us in quantity of tea. We need to soften the is the reason,” reveals Vineet. but our quality is better. When landing to the industry and To retain people in courses, the they get it right then where do make them stay for 2-3 months. Modelama's company is trying to improve we stand? Now the growth is not If they see the environment the quality of mobilisation 10 per cent a year, but inflation centres and our policies, then they by constantly motivating the is,” declares Vineet. Till date, invariably stick on,” adds community to join the apparel the company has placed 2,780 • ISDS-NCR – In the NCR Vineet. He also suggests that industry and getting skilled people and trained 7,500 people region, it is one of the instead of giving 10 per cent to people such as mechanics, through 45 days’ training fastest growing training the training partner, it should who have competency and programme. Though ISDS may organizations in the apparel be given to the person who has skills required rather than have its share of setbacks, but taken the job as motivation. sector with strong industry trainers. Also, the company it is what the industry needs “If the Government wants linkages. It is implementing tries distributing tea-biscuits right now with proper ground ‘n’ number of people being training in the in-factory after 5 hours of the training so implementation and procedures. employed, and employability, that people complete it. “It’s “We need to put our act together model and also classroom then the candidate must hold taken us time to establish our as we are a high employing models. The company works centres. We have closed many, on to this employment also,” industry. We as an organization with NGOs and development claims Vineet. but opened others as well. We or team have not reached out sector organizations to look for places that are close to Keeping in mind the trials to a level that we should have. synergize and scale up the industry, semi-urban areas that surround this initiative, There is still more that needs to skilling projects. with large number of domicile Modelama Skills is coming up be achieved through constant population. I think this is the with various strategies to feed industry support. Currently • ISDS-NE – Modelama has next logical step for the industry. the labour challenges faced by we are at places where the a significant presence in If the industry has to survive the apparel industry. Currently, Government is not there. in these clusters it cannot the company is targeting Who sends ZUKI machines to the North-east with courses depend on migratory labour,” domicile workers, those who Aizawl? We have done that.” focusing on sustainability asserts Vineet. are secondary bread earners of concludes Vineet. and market linkages.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 41 INDIACANVAS NAEC’s Export Awards Booster for Noida exporters
Supporting AO signature big step in democratizing the working campaign, Anil Peshawari, of the AEPC. VP of NAEC, demanded “I know that exporters at large have voting rights for every nothing to do with AEPC; they don’t exporter registered with even think about it and our trade is the AEPC on the dais. running and flourishing not due to Excerpts from his speech... the AEPC, but ‘despite’ the AEPC… “As the Minister is here Why is it so that the same people, and I am very well aware and at least a majority of them, are how dedicated he is for the still continuing and that very few industry, I would like to draw exporters attend the AGMs? Is it his attention to the fact that not that because the AEPC has not though our industry is not connected with the exporters…? that old, it has seen a lot of Out of about 4,000 exporters, only Uday Sehgal, Mariko receiving the award for Highest Exports by Young Entrepreneur from the Minister of State for Textiles (I/C), Santosh Kumar Gangwar. Also seen is Lalit Thukral, President, changes on various fronts, 700 are entitled to vote. My request NAEC who congratulated the winners but a thing which still has is only this that all people who are not changed is that our exporting, should be taken into the perfect blend of celebration, parent organization, the AEPC, is still ambit of the voting process. Why are fun and motivation which where it was initially. It remains in we differentiating in a democracy, Aconverted into a meaningful the hands of the same group of people where some people can vote and evening, the 2nd annual export who governed it 3 to 4 decades ago some can’t, and that too without awards for Outstanding Export and this is mostly because the election any big reason? I am also sure that Performance in the fiscal year system of the AEPC is not democrat majority of exporters don’t even 2013-14, organized by NAEC (Noida in nature. I must congratulate and know that by paying a little extra Apparel Export Cluster), saw thank the Minister for introducing EVS money to the AEPC, one can have felicitation not only to the apparel (Electronic Voting System), which is a voting rights, as member exporter!” exporters of Noida, but even of
their life and business partners Category Award type Award winning company too. Receiving the awards from the Gold Kimo Clothing Design Concept Pvt. Ltd. Highest Exports in Readymade Garments Minister of State for Textiles (I/C), Silver Celestial Knits & Fabs Pvt. Ltd. (Up to Rs. 50 crore) Santosh Kumar Gangwar was a Bronze Majestic Handicrafts Pvt. Ltd. proud moment for all of them which Gold Meenu Creation Highest Exports in Readymade Garments also motivated them as well as Silver CTA Apparels Pvt. Ltd. (Above Rs. 50 crore) others for better and bigger goals. Bronze B. L. International Pvt. Ltd. “I thank all award winners as their Highest Exports in Knitted Garments Gold Indian Stitchers efforts are making us proud and I (Up to Rs. 50 crore) Silver AS Fashions Pvt. Ltd. wish that now the award should go Highest Exports in Knitted Garments Gold Shree Bharat International Pvt. Ltd. above Rs. 50 crore and that more and (Above Rs. 50 crore) Silver Paragon Apparel Pvt. Ltd. Gold Celestial Knits & Fabs Pvt. Ltd. more exporters should grow,” said Highest Exports in Woven Garments Silver Avid Apparel Industries the Minister. (Up to Rs. 50 crore) Bronze Indian Stitchers A positive indication of an apparel Highest Exports in Woven Garments Gold CTA Apparels Pvt. Ltd. park in Noida was another reason (Above Rs. 50 crore) Silver Sahu Exports for rejoicing as the gathering was Highest Exports in Accessories & Gold Radiant Exports informed that a meeting of the Home Furnishing (Above Rs. 50 crore) Silver Rakam Exports cluster was being organized with the Gold Meenu Creation Chairman and CEO of Noida Authority Highest Exports by Woman Entrepreneur Silver New Delhi Export House to get space for the apparel park. Bronze Creatnet Services Ltd. Gold Mariko Awards were given in various Highest Exports by Young Entrepreneur Silver Lalwani International categories covering a large cross- Bronze Silver Apparels section of Noida-based exporters. Gold Zephyr Apparels Lalit Thukral, President of NAEC, Highest Net Unit Value Exports Silver Rag Trade (India) Pvt. Ltd. thanked all the supporters and Bronze Sahu Exports award winners and reiterated that Gold Sahu Exports Highest Growth in Exports during the Silver Paragon Apparel Pvt. Ltd. apparel exports from the Noida FY 2011-12, 2012-13, 2013-14 region will definitely increase as all Bronze CTA Apparels Pvt. Ltd. Gold CTA Apparels Pvt. Ltd. the exporters are working hard to Highest Employment provider in Cluster increase business. Silver Sahu Exports
42 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 43 Apparel Online India exportstatistics
TRADE SNIPS US Import Analysis: Jan.-March 2015 First quarter imports of apparel remains positive with Textiles, clothing exports up 5.4 per cent in 2014-15 6.07% growth in quantities and 3.93% rise in value Despite various international Apparel imports by the US in the first quarter of 2015 saw value of imports increase by and national challenges, textiles 3.93% from the same period last year, while volumes increased 6.07%. The average UVR of and clothing export from India products imported in the first three months of 2015 was US $ 3.13, down from US $ 3.19 in increased 5.4 per cent in 2014- 15. The Cotton Textiles Export the first quarter of last year. In the same period, Indian exports of apparel have registered Promotion Council (Texprocil) good growth in the US market with 9.36% rise in value and 7.62% increase in volumes. The claims that textiles and clothing country registered an average UVR of US $ 3.61, slightly up from US $ 3.55 in the same export was US $ 41.4 billion in period last year. 2014-15 as against US $ 39.3 billion in 2013-14. Export of cotton textiles and raw cotton Exports to US from slipped 1,000 to a seasonally the US stock index futures decreased 14.7 per cent, as it Bangladesh picks up adjusted 264,000 for the week added to gains, while prices was US $ 11,353 million in 2014- ended May 9, within a whisker of US Treasuries edged up. After registering continued 15 as against US $ 13,306 million of a 15-year low reached two The US dollar extended decline over the year 2014, in 2013-14. weeks ago. They have been losses against a basket of Bangladesh exports to the US below 300,000, a threshold currencies. The claimed data after starting this year with RK Dalmia, Chairman of Texprocil associated with a strengthening underscored the dilemma the negative growth has at the end says, “India is lacking at interest labour market, for 10 straight US central bank faces. Policy of the first quarter seen an rates, timely release of incentives weeks. The economy barely makers believe the economy is upswing with 6.25% increase and policy support. Through basic grew in the first quarter, held poised to strengthen and the in value and 6.86% rise in manufacturing, we are very much back by a range of factors, labour market appears to be volumes, the average UVR for competitive. But, because of including the dollar, bad tightening, but surprisingly the first three months of 2015 these other issues, we become weather and port disruptions. soft growth and subdued was US $ 2.92, down from US uncompetitive.” He has urged the Retail sales and manufacturing inflation pressures are $ 2.94 in the same period last data suggest that while Government to include cotton complicating their plans to year. It would appear that activity is picking up, the pace lift rates. The Fed, which textiles under the three per cent Bangladeshi exporters have remains modest. has a 2% inflation target, interest rate subvention scheme made efforts to work on their However, after the has kept its key short-term and release funds under the pricing and also compliance announcement of lower claims interest rate near zero since Technology Upgradation Fund. issues to win back confidence for unemployment benefits, December 2008. In the meanwhile, the consultancy of the US retailers. firm Technopak has claimed in After slow growth its report that India’s textile and TOTAL US GLOBAL APPAREL IMPORTS — JAN.-MARCH 2015 apparel exports are expected to in first quarter, grow at a Compounded Annual US economy shows Type of Apparel Jan.-March '14 Jan.-March '15 % Change Growth Rate (CAGR) of 9 per signs of improving Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value cent, from around US $ 40 billion The number of Americans Cotton 2970.01 10393.63 2965.32 10161.12 -0.16 -2.24 in 2013, to US $ 95 billion in filing new claims for Wool 24.43 496.33 24.97 480.47 2.21 -3.20 2023. The Government is also unemployment benefits MMF 2857.23 7608.26 3216.65 8594.26 12.58 12.96 set to unveil a new textile policy unexpectedly fell in May, Silk & Veg 94.72 478.83 100.44 487.64 6.04 1.84 which will aim to raise exports to indicating that the jobs US $ 300 billion by 2024-25, and market was on solid footing Total 5946.39 18977.05 6307.38 19723.48 6.07 3.93 2 create around 35 million jobs. even as the economy struggled Qty & value in mn M & US $ to regain momentum after Report also claims that global abruptly slowing in the first textile and apparel trade was quarter. Other data showed TOTAL APPAREL EXPORTS TO THE US BY INDIA AND ITS COMPETITORS — JAN.-MARCH 2015 worth US $ 773 billion in 2013, that a strong dollar and Countries Jan.-March '14 Jan.-March '15 % Change and is expected to grow at a lower oil prices suppressed Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value CAGR of 5 per cent over the next producer inflation in April. decade. China dominates global That together with signs of India 265.58 944.04 285.82 1032.45 7.62 9.36 textile and apparel exports with a modest growth early in the Bangladesh 446.98 1312.84 477.63 1394.89 6.86 6.25 40 per cent share of made-ups, second quarter suggest the China 2176.60 6170.63 2395.01 6474.59 10.03 4.93 37 per cent of apparel, and 39 per Federal Reserve will probably Pakistan 147.80 339.83 147.40 340.10 -0.27 0.08 cent of fabric. The global fabric not raise interest rates until Sri Lanka 110.97 467.76 129.54 539.18 16.73 15.27 trade was worth US $ 137 billion later in the year. Vietnam 670.17 2175.90 757.26 2439.42 13.00 12.11 in 2013, while the global apparel Initial claims for state Qty & value in mn M2 & US $ trade was worth US $ 428 billion. unemployment benefits
44 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 45 Apparel Online India exportstatistics
Canada Apparel Imports: Good growth in ladies dresses Jan.-March 2015 Ladies blouses slow but steady from India Canada sees import growth category from India of apparel declining In the first quarter of 2015, the US In the first three months of 2015, India in value by (-) 1.37% registered increase in the import of dresses registered just 1.17% gains in volumes of 5.69% in value and 6.72% in volumes, in and 3.77% rise in value of exports to line, India too saw an increase in its exports the US in blouses. In the meanwhile, US As pressures of a weak in this category. While there was an increase import of blouses was on the increase economy continue to stress of 14.85% in value, the volumes soared by with values rising 3.23% and volumes consumers, the import of 13.74%. increasing by 9.01%. apparel goods continued on a downward projectile in the first quarter of 2015. Bangladesh sees gains in value Undergarments make a While most of the major of suits/ensembles exports while comeback this year in US imports manufacturing destinations volumes dip A very basic category like under garments, saw a downward movement, which has been a growth category in Vietnam seems to be In the first quarter of this year, while value increasing its share and of exports increased, the volumes were on the past, saw declines in the last year, today it holds 4th rank in a declining projectile. During the defined but seems to have made a comeback knitted garments and 3rd period, Bangladesh registered 18.91% this year. While the increase in volumes rank in woven garments in increase in value though volumes were in the US was 7.33%, values rose import of apparel by Canada. down (-) 8.36% in its export of suits/ 10.36%. From India the values increased ensembles, as compared to the same substantially by 32.68% and volumes up Canada registered a negative period in 2014. surged 21.98%. trend in imports of garments in the first three months of the year, T-shirts pick up momentum in with values down (-) 1.37% from India registers negative growth various destinations. While knitted in nightwear Bangladesh’s exports garments were down (-) 1.63%, Last year nightwear was among the big T-shirts have been among the big-ticket woven garments registered a growth categories and continued to remain items from Bangladesh, but last year decline of (-) 1.12% in value positive throughout 2014, but in the first things slowed down; however, in the first of imports. quarter of this year nightwear has registered three months of 2015, there has been a revival. The country registered gains in Though last year Canada was negative growth, which is a setback for a growth market for Indian those exporters who were looking for better values with 6.79% rise, while the volumes apparel exporters, 2015 has growth this year. While the values declined of exports in the category to the US saw seen a reversal with values (-) 11.16%, volumes were down (-) 16.68% growth of 12.83%, as compared to the decreasing (-) 7.80%. While the in the period under review. same period last year. knitted segment saw a decline of (-) 10.43%, the woven category saw downfall of (-) 5.91%. ITEM-WISE PERCENTAGE INCREASE IN TOTAL APPAREL IMPORTS BY US FROM INDIA AND BANGLADESH: JAN.-MARCH 2015 AS AGAINST JAN.-MARCH 2014 Bangladesh continued to lose in the market and could not Exports to USA register growth in the reviewed Total Imports by USA India Bangladesh period with (-) 11.80% decline APPAREL TYPE in value of exports. While the Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Change Change Actual Actual Change Change Actual Actual Change Change knitted garments were down by (-) 19.62%, the woven categories Babies Wear 1.56 0.85 1,813,799 43.88 19.99 -16.95 3,087,951 50.00 14.97 15.61 registered a decline of (-) 5.89%. Foundation Garments 13.61 11.80 343,325 24.43 1.05 11.15 1,008,638 24.08 65.91 97.95 Like most other markets, China Jackets & Blazers -0.95 1.72 103,202 19.76 3.21 16.01 352,543 50.99 -3.04 8.43 has stagnated in the Canadian Ladies Blouses 9.01 3.23 2,323,971 172.95 1.17 3.77 610,251 33.45 0.76 -6.43 market and registered a decline Ladies Dresses 6.72 5.69 1,453,991 127.03 13.74 14.85 349,759 14.03 -3.61 0.33 in exports of (-) 2.99% in value. Ladies Skirts 12.26 9.37 338,937 27.64 -3.77 -0.39 317,492 12.20 8.34 8.52 While the knitted category saw Legwear 8.78 11.60 685,360 3.88 5.44 35.75 0 0.00 – – decline of (-) 4.53%, there was decline in the woven category by Men's Shirts -4.27 -3.06 676,998 59.25 13.72 7.10 3,241,070 189.11 -1.11 1.91 (-) 1.53%. Nightwear 7.74 5.29 808,469 24.20 -16.68 -11.16 393,684 10.75 55.38 45.60 Vietnam was the only country Suits / Ensembles -6.91 -6.54 165,142 22.15 23.85 2.67 115,906 8.63 -8.36 18.91 among those analyzed that saw Sweaters -5.56 -2.08 14,953 1.24 104.14 110.49 92,203 4.88 -25.63 -12.44 value of exports increasing by a Trousers 3.56 2.07 1,652,531 119.67 6.70 5.28 12,530,468 716.82 4.57 5.69 whopping 23.40%. The increase T-Shirts 2.98 2.02 6,445,788 262.59 20.24 -77.51 5,121,061 129.26 12.83 6.79 was registered in both the knitted and woven segments of 22.36% Undergarments 7.33 10.36 3,999,131 68.18 21.98 32.68 6,720,505 73.46 16.71 13.24 and 24.62%, respectively. Value in mn US $ and Qty in dozens, Legwear in dozen pairs, Babies Wear in Kg
46 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 47 Apparel Online India RESOURCECENTRE
Apparel Resources conducts A record number weekend workshop on Lean of 400 exhibitors expected at Apparel n continuation of its workshop to ‘Quality Improvement Process’ Iseries ‘Technology Forum through FMEA, cause effect matrix Sourcing Paris 2015’, Apparel Resources held a and top down charting. The thought Texprocil supports Indian highly appreciated workshop on process of the delegates was brushed manufacturers ‘Implementing Lean Sigma in Apparel up through detailed discussion on Manufacturing’ on 30-31 May 2015, at ‘How to improve the quality and Almost 400 international exhibitors are New Delhi. The workshop was focused reduce the cost of poor quality’. expected at the next Apparel Sourcing Paris on implementing Lean Sigma and The key advantages of a Lean trade fair, which will take place from 14th best practices in the apparel industry. Sigma Processes, like reduced non- to 17th September 2015. This represents The two-day workshop was attended conformance, improved workplace, a record since the fair was launched in by representatives from many key defect perception standardization, September 2011, gaining an excess of 40 per players in the apparel industry, improved process flows, systems cent increase over September 2014 when including BNT Connections, Impex and MIS were discussed. A the event welcomed 289 exhibitors. “This Limited, Radnik Exports, Lectra structured cost-benefit analysis was growth shows that the event has established Technologies, Pratibha Syntex Ltd. also presented on the benefits to itself as the No. 1 European trade fair for and Pearl Global Ind. Ltd. overall business. global garment sourcing. We have adopted The workshop conducted by The second half of the forum the correct strategy for its development and Chandrark Karekatti, Head Projects was focused on inputs on the are continuing to broaden its offer, which and Training – Apparel Resources, pressing requirement of factories always puts an international range on show,” presented a detailed roadmap on the in reducing style changeover time confirmed Michael Scherpe, CEO of Messe various aspects of lean manufacturing by implementing Single Minute Frankfurt France. along with its implementation in Exchange of Dies (SMED). Hand The ninth Apparel Sourcing Paris fair will garment factories. The concepts on implementation exercises include almost 90 new exhibitors from all of Single Piece Flow, Just-in-Time, on use of Andon, Poka-Yoke, points of the compass. Visitors will be able Continuous Improvement, Error Flow Manufacturing and TPM to benefit from a very varied, high-quality Proofing, and Right First Time, among in apparel manufacturing was offer, from entry level to top of the range, others, were explained in detail. also demonstrated. covering all ready-to-wear for women, men The participants thoroughly enjoyed The ‘Technology Forum 2015’ is a part and children, and accessories too. Numerous the fun-filled training session which of the workshop series that addresses solutions to the particular issues/problems of included simulation exercise on lean key challenges for the apparel the European market, which always attract setup and hands-on exercises on industry. It was well received by the strong interest from exhibitors because of Value Stream Mapping and Workplace industry participants, and on the the recovery, will also be highlighted. Management. The presentation also second day of the two-day workshop explained exactly how these tools The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion sensing the clamouring demand, and processes can be applied to Council (Texprocil) has been working Apparel Resources announced the apparel industries. The concept of best hard to promote Indian exports since its repeat of the same on 13th and 14th practices that help transform factories inception in 1954. This year the council of June 2015. A real transition of into world class manufacturing will be accompanying 12 companies, the industry from ‘I know it all’ to facilities was also discussed. of which 11 have attended in the past. learning with experts and through Rashish Enterprises, the newcomer to In another session Chandrark sharing... especially on Saturdays and Apparel Sourcing Paris, will display very focused on a structured approach Sundays says it a lot. trendy, attractively finished collections of bags and belts. This manufacturer is already working with many European fashion labels. The other companies include, Anjali Creations, BBK, Chinar Softech, Indkraft, K M Inc, Kishorilal, Mangalam, Meenakshi, Mint Impex, Seven Seas and Silk Appeal. Accessories, mainly scarves and stoles, have pride of place and collections in luxury materials such as cashmeer, merino wool and silk for items destined for the top of the range, and items in natural materials such as cotton, wool, linen and bamboo, and man- made fibres for the mid-range and entry- level markets. Besides this, men, women and children fashion will be on display, as also bags and belts.
Chandrark Karekatti, Head Projects and Training – Apparel Resources, interacting with delegates at the workshop
48 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 49 Apparel Online India RESOURCECENTRE
GSD is now a Coats Group company USHA sponsors the ‘Best Garment Construction n a landmark development, Ifollowing a strategic alliance Award 2015’ at NIFT announced way back in May 2014, Coats has acquired 100 per cent SHA International, one of the leading players stakes in GSD Corporate Ltd. in the sewing machine industry in India, U Subsequently, GSD now becomes playing a pivotal role in encouraging young and a Coats Group company. GSD, budding fashion designers, has been sponsoring a UK-based company, supplies the prestigious NIFT Best Garment Construction expert management solutions Award since the year 2000. NIFT centres where that analyze time, cost and USHA awards are given include New Delhi, Mumbai, production capability in the sewn Kolkata, Gandhi Nagar, Chennai, Bangalore, products sector with the focus Hyderabad, Raebareli, Kangra, Shillong and Patna. on maximizing productivity and At the convocation event that took place in Mumbai controlling costs. recently, USHA International felicitated Subhadra Chowrasiya with its state-of-the-art USHA Janome Coats Global Services and GSD Dream Maker 120 sewing machine, a trophy, will work together to deliver certificate and a cash award of Rs. 10,000. Design management solutions to creations of graduating students were showcased maximize productivity and drive down costs in the sewn products during the event. Paul Forman, manufacturing sector, with GSD Chief Executive, Coats Group plc Talking about the association, Harvinder Singh, providing time-cost benchmarking Business Head (Sewing Machines), USHA and Coats offering consulting and “GSD will enhance International said, “We are proud of our association technical production expertise, Coats Global Services' with NIFT. Year-on-year, we have recognized some for retailers, brands and their of the finest creative young minds and will continue end-to-end operational supply chain vendors. GSD will in our endeavour to highlight and bring their talent Excellence offering, enhance Coats Global Services’ to the forefront by empowering students to give which provides end-to-end Operational Excellence wings to their creativity and expression with USHA offering, which provides practical, practical, industry- sewing machines.” industry-specific technical specific technical Being the market leader, USHA International has services, training, technology services, training, redefined the industry and taken it to new levels by solutions, quality assurance and offering technologically advance sewing machines technology solutions, compliance, while GSD will have quality assurance and to consumers. Usha Janome machines are crafted access to Coats’ global reach with advanced Japanese technology that led to and resources. compliance, while performance, quality and complete ease of operation. “This is a great opportunity for GSD will have access Memory Craft series by Usha Janome is a range to Coats' global reach of computerized sewing and embroidery machines GSD and for our customers. We that make the most incredible designs. An ideal are delighted to be joining Coats and resources.” combination of innovation, precision, speed and ease following the success of our of use make these sewing machines appeal to every strategic alliance over the last 12 type of sewing enthusiast. With features like Wi-Fi months. The combination of GSD’s enabled, moveable eye-height screen, largest size specialist technical knowledge, demand in these areas. Coats is embroidery hoop, powerful onboard editing, superior data integrity and industry also a recognized industry leader, data transfer options via PC connection, USB and experience married to the global with longstanding expertise and CD ROM device, and these sewing machines are a reach, customer and brand deep industry relationships. technological marvel beyond compare. relationships, industry stature Both companies, and more and consulting expertise of Coats, Amongst the various initiatives of USHA, is a one-of- importantly our customers, will will provide a transformative a-kind experiential store – The Hab in Mumbai. Aimed benefit from the combination and and exciting offering,” said at making sewing a trendy concept, this unique store wider availability of these value Paul Timson, Managing has been successfully inspiring people by allowing adding services.” Director, GSD (Corporate) Ltd., them to create, innovate and experience the art of As the globally accepted following the takeover. sewing and design. USHA International has also set Predetermined Time System for up over 900 USHA Sewing Schools across India for Paul Forman, Chief Executive, the sewn products sector, GSD is enhancing the sewing and designing skills of women. Coats Group plc added, “We referenced by the International The company has also set up over 10,000 USHA are delighted that GSD will be Labour Organisation as an Silai Schools across rural India, a community-based joining Coats Group. GSD is a industry standard. It is active initiative through which USHA aims at empowering world leader in its field, with in more than 68 countries and women by imparting sewing skills and providing them a comprehensive offering that has more than 5,000 customers with sewing machines to earn their livelihood. meets both cost-efficiency and worldwide. There are also more social compliance needs at a time than 12,000 formally licensed ‘GSD when we are seeing growth in Practitioners’ in the world today.
50 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 resourcecentre
HOOK / BAR HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES
EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES BUTTONS / BUCKLES
FFT MAGAZINE
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 51 Apparel Online India 52 Talking about the current Childrenswear from AAA Merchandising market scenario and company’s the Esprit brand is approach to the same Taposh now the baby of exploring technical fabrics adds, “European buyers who Zannier had earlier moved to Bangladesh Facing financial difficulties, technical fabric. and Vietnam are now coming Esprit has entrusted its The company back to India as they are ready childrenswear segment is in touch with to pay a little extra for quality, to Zannier, The French some vendors in timely deliveries and smaller specialist and a leader in Ludhiana and runs. It’s a kind of revival which children’s fashion. It will Tirupur for the will help the Indian market. be in charge of designing, fabric, and is On the flip side, the US market producing and distributing targeting US-based which is comparatively good Esprit Kids for Europe buyers. “We are as of now, is showing signs and the Middle East as looking at this indicating that consumers are of 1 January 2016. The segment as a long again starting to focus on their initial contract is set xploring new products term growth area and not just a saving and are reducing on for 5 years and the first and having a sharp eye one-time product, as of now the spending; so it will be good to E collection resulting from this on changing market needs is project is at the initial sampling tap the European market too. partnership will be those of a route towards growth for stage. Vendors are developing If Indian manufacturers can Fall/Winter 2016-17. many buying houses. No doubt, such fabrics with imported yarns reduce delivery time by 15 to 20 a focused approach towards and we are sure that the products per cent, many orders can come Zannier will also be service to the international will be as per the international to India which as of now is going setting up a legal entity in buyers is another important standard and need of our buyers,” to our competitor markets.” Ratingen, near Düsseldorf, the location of Esprit’s element for growth. Mumbai- said Taposh Bhattacharyya, The company, dealing in the operational headquarters. based AAA Merchandising Director, who is working in the entire range of apparels, Childrenswear currently is following a similar growth industry since 1985 and believes mainly catering to good brands accounts for 3.4% of the path and has recently started that in next two years technical has offices in Tirupur, Delhi, Esprit product offerings. working to explore buyers for fabrics will see a good growth. Bangalore and Dhaka.
JUNE 16-30, 2015 | Apparel Online India 53 54 Apparel Online India 55 Apparel Online India