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2 Apparel Online India Apparel Online India 3 4 Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India VOL. XVIII Issue 6 Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Editor ILA SAXENA Chief Response Editor VINITA PANDEY Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI June 16-30, 2015 Asst. Copy Editor CONTENTS SAHIL SEHGAL Asst. Editor-News DHEERAJ TAGRA Asst. Editor NEHA CHHETRI Sr. Correspondent-Textiles SANJOGEETA OJHA Sr. Correspondent-Fashion KALITA LAMBA Assistant Manager-Marketing & Advertising SUBIR KUMAR Sr. Executive-Advertising D K CHUGH Creative Team RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT Photo Editor SUMIT THARAN Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 Operation Director MAYANK MOHINDRA 12 20 24 27 30 09810611487 Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA WordWrap 09810058986, 9810438653 Time for Pink: Birth of the Princess to Head Office boost Britain retail Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. Already being tipped as a billion pound worth baby, the birth of 12 B-32, South Extension-I, New Delhi-110 049 Princess ‘Charlotte Elizabeth Diana’ is likely to benefit the British Phone: 91-11-47390000 economy by around £ 150 million a year... E-mail: [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online contact: 91-11-47390000 BusinessStrategy [email protected] Magsons Exports is now AEO certified [email protected] Similar to the SAFE framework of standard adopted by World Printing Customs Organisation (WCO), to secure and facilitate global TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. 18 trade, is the AEO certificate programme... B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. 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INDIA 30 Pattern-making is an essential element of garment design, and one crucial element is the sleeve... 6 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 7 Apparel Online India FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’S DESK… GARMENTING IS THE DRIVER FOR GROWTH IN TEXTILE Value Chain… It’s time MINISTRY RECOGNIZED THIS! Who should be made responsible for bringing All because it is not khadi, silk, linen or business to India in the entire textile value polyester by itself which sells, but it’s the chain…, of course it has to be the apparel ‘brands’ with which they are associated that sector… And why? The answer is actually very have made them popular..., it’s the consumer simple to understand… After all it is this sector who has been made to see a product that which is responsible to fetch a ‘price’ for all the appeals to his psyche and fits him or her values added in the entire textile value chain… well... A person walks into a Fabindia shop But does the Government, and especially not to pick up khadi or silk, but a Fabindia the bureaucrats, realize this? Probably not product, which has a perceived value for and why, because garment exporters and its the customer. Just adding an identity workers are scattered all over the country and tag like lycra, tencil or woolmark does hence are not the vote bank… This may sound not help, unless it is backed by hardcore harsh, but think about it! commercial marketing and branding to touch the consumer. The focus for the Government and consequently the Textiles Ministry has always Until we attach a commercial value to the been for the poor, and schemes which appeal to work being done by the handloom sector, their masses have been promoted and cleared… And plight will never improve... This can only be in the textile chain, the handlooms sector is done by the design houses that visualizes the the obvious choice for schemes and incentives synergy between the fabric and the garment, since the sector represents clusters of poor the brands who get the garments made and artisans and announcing of such schemes gets the garmenting sector, which manufactures good media time. the garments for the local and international But, does this ploy translate to any long-term brands... Look what Zara did for linen and benefit for the handlooms sector? I don’t think today linen has transformed from being an so and this ‘appeasement’ (please excuse elitist fabric to being a mass fashion craze! me for saying ‘appeasement’, but I have my The manufacturing and design studios reasons) has been going on for the past many which do the collections for the brands/ Governments with no result and the plight of retail segment has to be incentivized to use the workers still persists… Is it not ironic that handlooms in their collections, because the segment that gets maximum benefits and they are the ones who will promote, use and media attention is actually the worst off! educate the end-customer on the ‘value’ of Every fashion college worth a name has been products, and handloom will gain by default. sending students year after year to various Once the customer appreciates the products..., clusters across the country for projects in the the clusters will automatically upgrade, and name of enhancing the design skills of the artisan given their due, not only in revenue artisans, but the ground reality is that these terms but also in terms of recognition and visits have actually become a ‘nuisance’ for wider acceptability... It’s a chain reaction the artisans since they end up teaching the which has to start not from the bottom, but students weaving rather than the students top downwards, with garmenting leading from helping to add value to their art, also since it is the front. a compulsory routine…, the passion and intent But for this transit to happen, the mindset of is missing. the Government and with it the bureaucrats’ What can, and should be done? I give you a few needs to change... They have to think like teasers to think about... entrepreneurs and create linkages with enterprises which are involved in sales • Why Fabindia khadi and silk products are and marketing of the end-product to the so famously selling whereas the Khadi international market... Gram Udyog could never reach the same popularity as Fabindia? Will we see this change happening with the current Government...? Difficult to say, but we • Why polyester use has grown over can only propose that it should happen. As a the years? fresh thought, maybe we should be advocating • Why has linen become a craze after Zara for a separate ministry for garment sector, put it on their shelves? so the focus is more targeted and the • Why use of wool products has declined over Government is able to look beyond the first the years despite promoting wool for quality level of the textile value chain..., that too to under the Woolmark tag and other schemes? the advantage of all! 8 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2015 9 Apparel Online India MINDTREE #apparelresources.com The Rajasthan State Pollution Control Board issued closure Deepak Vijay, CEO, Enn Enn Expo notices to 893 textile units in Sanganeer as they failed to International, Delhi install a CETP. Besides, the National Green Tribunal’s circuit First of all I must say that this is going to have MIND bench of Jodhpur has ordered the closure of 739 textile a big impact on export to traditional markets units in Balotra, Jasol and Bithuja till July 9. There was a like Japan and Europe. Sanganeer is the main similar crisis in Tirupur a few years ago... Why the industry centre of hand block and hand screen printing TREETOPIC OF DEBATE is not serious to such issues... Is closure of units a solution? at majority of the export houses since ages and India’s image as an exporter started with ethnic designs from there in the 1970s. Devi Shankar Khatri, President, RD Sharma, Proprietor, Pooja Dyeing, Pollution is a big issue and it must be taken The Sanganeer Kapda Rangai and Sanganeer (Jaipur) seriously but the printers’ and exporters’ Chapai Association, Jaipur Honestly speaking, all of us are responsible concerns must also be taken care of as this Closure of units is something that can’t for this situation, but I would like to add problem is delaying our production and be even imagined as it is the livelihood that we are not only doing business, we deliveries. I think NGT and Pollution Board of lakhs of people. Yes, environment are supporting the industry and helping to should give a final deadline, say 6 months to has been neglected, but all of us are sustain Sanganeer print.