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1 The Best of

Planning a trip to a state as large and diverse as Arizona involves a lot of decision making (other than which golf clubs to take), so in this chapter I’ve tried to give you some direction. Below, I’ve chosen what I feel is the very best the state has to offer— the places and experiences you won’t want to miss. Although sights and activities listed here are written up in more detail elsewhere in this book, this chapter should help you plan your trip.

1 The Best Places to Commune with Cactus • Desert Botanical Garden (Phoenix): scorpions, black widows, and Gila There’s no better place in the state to monsters). See p. 359. learn about the plants of Arizona’s • (Tucson): Sonoran Desert and the many other Lying both east and west of Tucson, deserts of the world. Displays at this this park preserves “forests” of Phoenix botanical garden explain saguaro cacti and is the very essence plant adaptations and how indige- of the desert that so many imagine it nous tribes once used many of this to be. You can hike it, bike it, or drive region’s wild plants. See p. 121. it. See p. 364. • (east • Tohono Chul Park (Tucson): of Phoenix): Just outside the town of Although this park is not that large, it Superior, this was the nation’s first packs a lot of desert scenery into its botanical garden established in a modest space. Impressive plantings of desert environment. It’s set in a small cacti are the star attractions, but there canyon framed by cliffs and has are also good wildflower displays in desert plantings from all over the the spring. See p. 371. world—a fascinating educational • Organ Pipe Cactus National Mon- stroll in the desert. See p. 163. ument (west of Tucson): The organ • Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum pipe cactus is a smaller, multitrunked (Tucson): The name is misleading— relative of the giant saguaro and lives this is actually more a zoo and botani- only along the Mexican border about cal garden COPYRIGHTEDthan a museum. Naturalistic 100 MATERIALmiles west of Tucson. This settings house dozens of species of remote national monument has hik- desert animals, including a number of ing trails and a couple of scenic critters you wouldn’t want to meet drives. See section 1 in chapter 11. in the wild (rattlesnakes, tarantulas,

2 The Best Active Vacations • Rafting the : weeks, nothing comes even remotely Whether you go for 3 days or 2 close to matching the excitement of a 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 5

THE BEST DAY HIKES & NATURE WALKS 5 rafting trip through the Grand much golf or tennis as your shoulders Canyon. Sure, the river is crowded can handle? The Phoenix/Scottsdale with groups in the summer, but the area has one of the nation’s greatest grandeur of the canyon is more than concentrations of resorts, and Sedona enough to make up for it. See p. 232. and Tucson add many more options to • Hiking into the Grand Canyon or the mix. There’s something very satis- Havasu Canyon: Not for the unfit or fying about swinging a racket or club the faint of heart, a hike down into the with the state’s spectacular scenery in Grand Canyon or Havasu Canyon is a the background, and the climate journey through millions of years set means you can do it practically year- in stone. This trip takes plenty of round. See chapters 5, 6, and 10. advance planning and requires some • Mountain Biking in Sedona: Forget very strenuous hiking. With both a Moab—too many other hard-core campground and a lodge at the bot- mountain bikers. Among the red rocks tom of each canyon, you can choose to of Sedona, you can escape the crowds make this trip with either a fully and pedal through awesome scenery loaded backpack or just a light day- on some of the most memorable sin- pack. See p. 227 and 260. gle-track trails in the Southwest. • Riding the Range at a Guest There’s even plenty of slickrock for that Ranch: Yes, there are still cowboys in Canyonlands experience. See p. 198. Arizona. They ride ranges all over the • Bird-Watching in Southeastern Ari- state, and so can you if you book a zona: As an avid bird-watcher, I know stay at one of the many guest ranches that this isn’t the most active of sports, (once known as dude ranches). You but a birder can get in a bit of walking might even get to drive some cattle when it’s necessary (like, to get to the down the trail. After a long (or short) nesting tree of an elegant trogon). The day in the saddle, you can soak in a southeast corner of the state is one of hot tub, go for a swim, or play a game the best birding regions in the entire of tennis before chowing down. See country. See section 6, “The Best chapters 6, 9, 10, and 11. Bird-Watching Spots,” in this chapter • Staying at a Golf or Tennis Resort: If and the map on p. 14 of the color sec- horseback riding and cowboy cook- tion at the front of this guide. outs aren’t your thing, how about as

3 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks • Camelback Mountain (Phoenix): rugged Superstition Mountains will For many Phoenicians, the trail to the lead you to one of the most astonish- top of Camelback Mountain is a rit- ing views in the state. Hike the trail ual, a Phoenix institution. Sure, there on a weekday to avoid the crowds. are those who make this a casual but See p. 141. strenuous hike, but many more turn • (south of it into a serious workout by jogging Casa Grande): The hike up this cen- to the top and back down. I prefer a tral Arizona landmark is short but more leisurely approach so I can strenuous, and from the top there are enjoy the views. See p. 140. superb views out over the desert. The • Peralta Trail (east of Phoenix in the best time of year to make the hike is Superstition Mountains): This mod- in spring, when the peak comes alive erately difficult trail through the with wildflowers. Picacho Peak is 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARIZONA between Casa Grande and Tucson the most photographed rock forma- just off I-10. See p. 164. tions in the West. Don’t miss this • Bell Rock/Courthouse Butte Loop hike. See p. 298. Trail (Sedona): There simply is no • Betatakin (Navajo National Monu- better introduction to Sedona’s myr- ment): Betatakin is one of the most iad red-rock hiking opportunities impressive cliff dwellings in the South- than this easy 4-mile loop hike. The west, and while most people just mar- trail begins right on Arizona 179 in vel at it from a distance, it’s possible to the Village of Oak Creek, which is a take a ranger-led 5-mile hike to the few miles south of Sedona. Views, ruins. After hiking through remote views, views! See p. 190. Tsegi Canyon, you’ll have a better • The South Kaibab Trail (Grand understanding of the Ancestral Canyon South Rim): Forget the pop- Puebloan people who once lived here. ular Bright Angel Trail, which, near See p. 295. its start, is a human highway. The • Antelope Canyon (Page): More a South Kaibab Trail offers better views slow walk of reverence than a hike, to day hikers and is the preferred this short trail lets you see the amaz- downhill route for anyone heading to ing beauty that can result when water Phantom Ranch for the night. This is and rock battle each other in the a strenuous hike even if you go only a Southwest. The trail leads through a mile or so down the trail. Remember, picture-perfect sandstone slot canyon, the trip back is all uphill. See p. 228. which is only a few feet wide in some • The White House Ruins Trail places. See p. 303. (Canyon de Chelly National Monu- • The Seven Falls Trail (Tucson): ment): There’s only one Canyon de There is something irresistible about Chelly hike that the general public waterfalls in the desert, and on this can take without a Navajo guide, and trail you get more than enough falls that’s the 2.5-mile trail to White to satisfy any craving to cool off on a House Ruins, a small site once inhab- hot desert day. The Seven Falls Trail is ited by Ancestral (formerly in the Sabino Canyon Recreation called Anasazi). The trail leads from Area in northeast Tucson. See p. 379. the canyon rim across bare sandstone, • The Heart of Rocks Trail (Cochise through a tunnel, and down to the County): While the national parks floor of the canyon. See p. 291. and monuments in northern Arizona • The Wildcat Trail (Monument Val- get all the publicity, Chiricahua ley Navajo Tribal Park): As at Canyon National Monument, down in the de Chelly, there’s only one trail at southeast corner of the state, quietly Monument Valley that you can hike lays claim to some of the most spec- without a guide. This easy 3.2-mile tacular scenery in Arizona. On this trail loops around West Mitten Butte, trail, you’ll hike through a wonder- providing a close-up look at one of land of rocks. See p. 426.

4 The Best Scenic Drives • The Apache Trail (east of Phoenix): Apaches. Here is some of the most Much of this winding road, which remote country in the Phoenix area, passes just north of the Superstition with far-reaching desert vistas and Mountains, is unpaved and follows lots to see and do along the way. See a rugged route once traveled by section 12 in chapter 5. 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 7

THE BEST GOLF COURSES 7 • Oak Creek Canyon (Sedona): Slic- of sandstone buttes and mesas is one ing down from the pine country out- of the most photographed spots in side Flagstaff to the red rocks of America and, due to the countless Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon is a cool movies, TV shows, and commercials oasis. From the scenic overlook at the that have been shot here, is familiar top of the canyon to the swimming to people all over the world. A 17- holes and hiking trails at the bottom, mile dirt road winds through the this canyon road provides a rapid park, giving visitors close-up views of change in climate and landscape. See such landmarks as Elephant Butte, section 5 in chapter 6. the Mittens, and Totem Pole. See sec- • Canyon de Chelly National Monu- tion 7 in chapter 8. ment (Chinle): This fascinating com- • Mount Lemmon (Tucson): Sure, the plex of canyons on the Navajo Indian views of Tucson from the city’s north- Reservation has limited public access ern foothills are great, but the vistas because it is still home to numerous from Mount Lemmon are even bet- Navajo families. However, roads that ter. This mountain rises up from the parallel the north and south rims of desert like an island rising from the the canyon provide lots of scenic sea, and the road up the mountain overlooks. See section 5 in chapter 8. climbs from cactus country to cool • Monument Valley Navajo Tribal pine forests. See p. 380. Park (north of Kayenta): This valley

5 The Best Golf Courses • The Boulders’ South Course (Care- offers superb golf at the foot of the free, near Phoenix; & 480/488- Superstition Mountains. The 2nd, 9028): If you’ve ever seen a photo of 3rd, and 4th holes on the Dinosaur someone teeing off beside a massive Mountain Course are truly memo- balancing rock and longed to play rable. They play across the foot of that same hole, then you’ve dreamed Dinosaur Mountain and are among about playing the Boulders’ South the top holes in the state. See p. 137. Course. Jay Morrish’s desert-style • Troon North Golf Club (Scottsdale; design plays around and through the & 480/585-7700): Designed by jumble of massive boulders for which Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish, this the resort is named. See p. 137. semiprivate, desert-style course is • The Gold Course at the Wigwam named for the famous Scottish links Golf Resort & Spa (Litchfield Park, that overlook the Firth of Forth and near Phoenix; & 800/909-4224): If the Firth of Clyde—but that’s where you’re a traditionalist who eschews the similarities end. Troon North has those cactus- and rattlesnake-filled two 18-hole courses, but the original, desert target courses, be sure to known as the Monument Course, is reserve a tee time on the Wigwam’s still the favorite. See p. 138. Gold Course. This 7,100-yard resort • Tournament Players Club (TPC) of course has long been an Arizona leg- Scottsdale (Scottsdale; & 888/400- end. See p. 137. 4001): If you’ve dreamed of playing • Gold Canyon Golf Resort (Apache where the pros play, then plan a visit Junction, near Phoenix; & 480/982- to the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess. 9449): This resort east of Phoenix Book a tee time on the resort’s 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARIZONA Stadium Course, and you can play on eroded sandstone come right down to the course that hosts the PGA Tour’s the greens, and one tee box is up on FBR Open. See p. 138. top of the bluff. See p. 306. • We-Ko-Pa Golf Club (& 480/836- • Ventana Canyon Golf and Racquet 9000): Located on the Yavapai Club (Tucson; & 520/577-4015): Nation northeast of Scottsdale, this Two Tom Fazio–designed courses, golf club includes two challenging the Canyon and the Mountain, are 18-hole courses that are bounded by shared by two of the city’s finest open desert and stupendous views. resorts. Both desert-style courses play See p. 138. through some of the most stunning • Sedona Golf Resort (Sedona; & 877/ scenery in the state. If I had to choose 733-6630): It’s easy to assume that all between them, I’d go for the Moun- of Arizona’s best courses are in the tain Course. See p. 378. Phoenix and Tucson areas, but it just • Omni Tucson National Resort Golf isn’t so. Up in red-rock country, at Course (Tucson; & 520/575-7540): the mouth of Oak Creek Canyon, the With its wide expanses of grass on 18 Sedona Golf Resort boasts a tradi- holes and its additional 9 holes of tional course with terrific red-rock desert-style golf, this course, once the views. See p. 199. site of the PGA Tour’s Tucson Open, • Lake Powell National Golf Course is both challenging and forgiving. (Page; & 928/645-2023): Fairways The 18th hole of the combined wrap around the base of the red sand- Orange and Gold courses was consid- stone bluff atop which sits the town ered one of the toughest finishing of Page. This is one of the most sce- holes on the tour. See p. 378. nic golf courses in the state. Walls of

6 The Best Bird-Watching Spots • Madera Canyon: The mountain • Ramsey Canyon Preserve: Nearly canyons of southern Arizona attract 200 species of birds, including 14 an impressive variety of bird life, species of hummingbirds, frequent from species common in lowland this canyon, one of the top birding desert to those that prefer thick forest spots in the country. See p. 413. settings. Madera Canyon is a good • San Pedro Riparian National Con- place to experience this variety. See servation Area: Water is a scarce p. 378. commodity in the desert, so it isn’t • Buenos Aires National Wildlife surprising that the San Pedro River Refuge: Gray hawks and masked attracts a lot of animal life, including bobwhite quails are among the more than 300 bird species. This is a refuge’s rarer birds, but a cienega (wet- life-list bonanza spot. See p. 413. land), lake, and stream attract plenty • Cave Creek Canyon: Although other of others. See section 2 in chapter 11. rare birds can be seen in this remote • Patagonia: With a year-round stream, canyon, most people come in hopes a Nature Conservancy preserve on the of spotting the elegant trogon, which edge of town, and Sonoita Creek State reaches the northernmost limit of its Natural Area, Patagonia is one of the range here. See p. 427. best spots in the state for sighting var- • Cochise Lakes (Willcox Ponds): ious flycatcher species. See section 4 in Wading birds in the middle of the chapter 11. desert? You’ll find them at the Willcox 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 9

THE BEST FAMILY EXPERIENCES 9 sewage-treatment ponds south of variety of waterfowl all frequent these town. Avocets, sandhill cranes, and a shallow bodies of water. See p. 428.

7 The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences • Taking a Vortex Tour in Sedona: • Sleeping in a Wigwam: Back in the Crystals and pyramids are nothing heyday of Route 66, the Wigwam compared to the power of the Sedona Motel in Holbrook lured passing vortexes, which just happen to be in motorists with its unusual architec- the middle of some very beautiful ture: concrete, wigwam-shaped cab- scenery. Organized tours shuttle believ- ins. Today, this little motel is still a ers from one vortex to the next. If you must for anyone on a Route 66 pil- offer it, they will come. See p. 191. grimage. See p. 286. • Gazing at the Stars: Insomniacs and • Touring Walpi Village: Of the Hopi stargazers will find plenty to keep villages that stand atop the mesas of them sleepless in the desert as they northeastern Arizona, only Walpi, peer at the stars through telescopes at one of the oldest, offers guided tours. Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff or Kitt Hopi guides share information on the Peak National Observatory near Tuc- history of the village and the Hopi son. In the town of Benson, you can culture. See p. 276. even stay at a B&B that doubles as an astronomical observatory. See p. 402.

8 The Best Family Experiences • Cowboy Steakhouses: No family hummingbirds. Kids and adults love should visit Arizona without spend- this place. See p. 359. ing an evening at a “genuine” cowboy • Old Tucson Studios (Tucson): Cow- steakhouse. With false-fronted build- boy shootouts, cancan girls, wagon ings, country bands, gunslingers, and rides, and horseback rides make this gimmicks (one place cuts off your old movie-studio set loads of fun for necktie, another has a slide from the the family. You might even get to see bar to the dining room), these eater- a movie or commercial being filmed. ies are all entertainment and loads of See p. 365. fun. See p. 118 and 358. • Shootouts at the O.K. Corral • Grand Canyon Railway: Not only is (Tombstone): Tombstone may be this train excursion a fun way to get “the town too tough to die,” but poor to the Grand Canyon, but it lets you Ike Clanton and his buddies the avoid the parking problems and con- McLaury boys have to die over and gestion that can be so wearisome. over again at the frequent reenact- Shootouts and train robberies are to ments of Tombstone’s famous gun- be expected in this corner of the Wild fight. See p. 417. West. See p. 258. • Rawhide at Wild Horse Pass • Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum (Phoenix): Your kids can climb atop a (Tucson): This is actually a zoo fea- mechanical bull or a real camel, pan turing the animals of the Sonoran for gold, climb a rock wall, or ride in Desert. Exhibits include rooms full of a stagecoach or train. After all this snakes, a prairie-dog town, enclosures activity, you’ll want to head to that are home to bighorn sheep and Rawhide’s steakhouse. See p. 132. mountain lions, and an aviary full of 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARIZONA • Goldfield Ghost Town (Apache the old mine, learn about the legend Junction): Although it may look a lit- of the Lost Dutchman Mine, and tle too contrived these days, Gold- otherwise have a thoroughly Wild field really was a mining town at one West experience. See p. 132. time. Today, you can take a tour of

9 The Best Family Vacations • Saddling Up on a Dude Ranch: toward adults, there are a handful in Ride off into the sunset with your Phoenix and Tucson that have exten- family at one of Arizona’s many dude sive pool complexes. The kids can play ranches (now called guest ranches). in the sand, shoot down a water slide, Most ranches have lots of special pro- or even float down an artificial river in grams for kids. See “Where to Stay” an inner tube. See “The Best Swim- choices throughout this book. ming Pools,” later in this chapter. • Floating on a Houseboat: Renting a • Having a Grand Vacation: You can floating vacation home on Lakes Pow- spend the better part of a week ell, Mead, or Mohave is a summer tra- exploring Grand Canyon National dition for many Arizona families. Park, with trails to hike, mules to ride With a houseboat, you aren’t tied to down into the canyon (if your kids one spot and can cruise from one sce- are old enough), air tours by plane or nic beach to the next. See p. 56. helicopter, rafting trips both wild and • Lounging by the Pool: While most tame, and even a train to ride to and Arizona resorts are geared primarily from the canyon. See chapter 7.

10 The Best Museums • Heard Museum (Phoenix): This is in Scottsdale, this museum eschews one of the nation’s premier museums cowboy art. See p. 126. devoted to Native American cultures. • Desert Caballeros Western Museum In addition to historical exhibits, a (Wickenburg): This little museum in huge kachina doll collection, and an the Wild West town of Wickenburg is excellent museum store, there are a celebration of all things Western, annual exhibits of contemporary including Western (or cowboy) art Native American art as well as dance and the trappings of the American performances and demonstrations of West. See p. 168. traditional skills. See p. 121. • Phippen Museum (Prescott): This • Phoenix Art Museum (Phoenix): museum is devoted exclusively to This large art museum has acres of Western art and features works by wall space and houses an outstanding members of the prestigious Cowboy collection of contemporary art as well Artists of America. See p. 173. as a fascinating exhibit of miniature • Museum of Northern Arizona rooms. See p. 125. (Flagstaff): The geology, ethnogra- • Scottsdale Museum of Contempo- phy, and archaeology of this region rary Art (Scottsdale): The Phoenix are all explored in fascinating detail at area’s largest museum of contemporary this Flagstaff museum. Throughout art is noteworthy as much for its bold the year, excellent special exhibits and architecture as for its wide variety of festivals focus on the region’s tribes. exhibits. Unlike most art galleries here See p. 250. 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 11

THE BEST PLACES TO SEE INDIAN RUINS 11 • The University of Arizona Museum remote southeastern corner of the of Art (Tucson): This collection state, this museum and research cen- ranges from the Renaissance to the ter houses a superb collection of present. Georgia O’Keeffe and Pablo Native American artifacts. Displays Picasso are among the artists whose focus on tribes of the Southwest, but works are on display here. See p. 366. other tribes are also represented. See • Amerind Foundation Museum p. 426. (west of Willcox): Located in the

11 The Best Places to Discover the Old West • Rodeos: Any rodeo, and this state has back lot and amusement park pro- plenty, will give you a glimpse of the vides visitors with a glimpse of the Old West, but the rodeos in Prescott most familiar Old West—the Holly- and Payson both claim to be the old- wood West. Sure, the shootouts and est in the country. Whichever rodeo cancan revues are silly; but it’s all in you attend, you’ll see plenty of good fun, and everyone gets a thrill bronco busting, bull riding, and beer out of seeing the occasional film crew drinking. See p. 173 and 311. in action. See p. 365. • Guest Ranches: The Old West lives • Cowboy Poetry Festivals: From on at guest ranches all over the state, heroes on horseback to poets on the where rugged wranglers lead city slick- prairie, it’s been a long, lonesome ride ers on horseback rides through desert for the American cowboy. At several scrub and mountain meadows. Camp- events around the state, you can hear fires, cookouts, and cattle are all part how some cowboys deal with the of the experience. See “Where to Stay” hardships and happiness of the cow- choices throughout this book. boy life. See section 3 in chapter 3. • Monument Valley (north of • Tombstone: Unlike Old Tucson, Kayenta): John Ford made it the hall- which is the reel Old West, Tombstone mark of his Western movies, and no is a genuine historic town—the real wonder: The starkly beautiful and Old West. However, “the town too fantastically shaped buttes and mesas tough to die” was reincarnated long of this valley are the quintessential ago as a major tourist attraction with Western landscape. You’ll recognize gunslingers in the streets, stagecoach Monument Valley the moment you rides, and shootouts at the O.K. Cor- see it. See section 7 in chapter 8. ral. See section 6 in chapter 11. • Old Tucson Studios (Tucson): Orig- inally constructed as a movie set, this

12 The Best Places to See Indian Ruins • (east of don’t have to observe from a distance. Phoenix): Located east of Phoenix See p. 163. and reached via the Apache Trail sce- • Besh-Ba-Gowah Archaeological nic road, this park has one of Ari- Park (Globe): These reconstructed zona’s few easily accessible cliff ruins have been set up to look the dwellings that still allows visitors to way they might have appeared 700 walk around inside the ruins; you years ago. Consequently, this park 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARIZONA provides a bit more cultural context Puebloan cliff dwellings, these ruins than what you’ll find at other ruins in are set on a wide plain. A ball court the state. See p. 163. similar to those found in Central • Casa Grande Ruins National Mon- America hints at cultural ties with the ument (west of Florence): Unlike Aztecs. See p. 252. most of Arizona’s other ruins, which • Canyon de Chelly National Monu- are constructed primarily of stone, ment: Small cliff dwellings up and this large and unusual structure is down the length of Canyon de Chelly built of packed desert soil. Inscrutable can be seen from overlooks, and a trip and perplexing, Casa Grande seems to into the canyon itself offers a chance rise from nowhere. See p. 164. to see some of these ruins up close. • Montezuma Castle National Mon- See section 5 in chapter 8. ument (north of Camp Verde): • (west Located just off I-17, this is the most of Kayenta): Both Keet Seel and easily accessible in Ari- Betatakin are some of the finest zona, although it cannot be entered. examples of Ancestral Puebloan cliff Nearby Montezuma Well also has dwellings in the state. Although the some small ruins. See p. 185. ruins are at the end of long hikes, • Wupatki National Monument their size and state of preservation (north of Flagstaff): Not nearly as make them well worth the effort. See well known as the region’s Ancestral section 6 in chapter 8.

13 The Best Places to See & Pictographs • Deer Valley Rock Art Center year, shadows fall on different images (Phoenix): This park northwest of on the rock wall here. See p. 192. Phoenix not only preserves a rock- • Rock Art Ranch (southeast of strewn hillside covered with petro- Winslow): Set in a remote little glyphs but also is the best place in the canyon, this private historic site pre- state to learn about rock art. See serves one of the most extensive col- p. 120. lections of petroglyphs in the state. • Palatki Heritage Site (Sedona): This You can visit only by reservation, and small cliff dwelling west of if you’re lucky, you might have the Sedona preserves not only ruins but place all to yourself. See p. 274. also quite a few pictographs (paint- • Saguaro National Park (Tucson): ings). Such paintings survive in only Signal Hill, in the west unit of a few well-protected spots in the Saguaro National Park, has a large state. See p. 192. spiral that often catches • (Sedona): Not the setting just right. Although this only are the petroglyphs at this spot doesn’t have a lot of petroglyphs, national forest site extensive, but they a sunset visit can be a magical experi- also have been linked to a variety of ence. See p. 364. solar events. At different times of the

14 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts • Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort & hyatt.com): Contemporary desert Spa at Gainey Ranch (Scottsdale; architecture, dramatic landscaping, a & 800/55-HYATT; www.scottsdale. water playground with its own beach, 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 13

THE BEST FAMILY RESORTS 13 a staff that’s always ready to assist a superb modern steakhouse top it you, good restaurants, and even gon- off. See p. 92. dola rides—it all adds up to a lot of • Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at fun at one of the most smoothly run Troon North (Scottsdale; & 888/ resorts in Arizona. See p. 87. 207-9696; www.fourseasons.com/ • Camelback Inn, A JW Marriott scottsdale): Located in north Scotts- Resort & Spa (Scottsdale; & 800/ dale not far from the Boulders, this is 24-CAMEL; www.camelbackinn. the most luxurious resort in Arizona. com): The Camelback Inn opened in The setting is dramatic, the accom- 1936 and today is one of the few modations are spacious, and one of Scottsdale resorts that retain an Old Arizona’s top golf courses is just next Arizona atmosphere while at the door. See p. 92. same time offering a wide range of • Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa modern amenities. A large full-service (Phoenix; & 800/950-0086; www. spa caters to those who crave pamper- arizonabiltmore.com): Combining ing, while two golf courses provide discreet service and the architectural plenty of challenging fairways and styling of Frank Lloyd Wright, the greens. See p. 86. Biltmore has long been one of the • The Phoenician (Scottsdale; & 800/ most prestigious resorts in the state. 888-8234; thephoenician.com): This This is a thoroughly old-money sort Xanadu of the resort world is brim- of place, though it continues to keep ming with marble, crystal, and works pace with the times. See p. 93. of art; and with staff seemingly around • Enchantment Resort (Sedona; every corner, the hotel offers guests & 800/826-4180; www.enchantment impeccable service. See p. 87. resort.com): A breathtaking setting in • The Boulders Resort & Golden a red-rock canyon makes this the Door Spa (Carefree; & 866/397- most unforgettable resort in Arizona. 6520; www.theboulders.com): Tak- If you want to feel as though you’re ing its name from the massive blocks vacationing in the desert, this place of eroded granite scattered about the fits the bill. Guest rooms are con- grounds, the Boulders is among the structed in a architectural most exclusive resorts in the state. style, and the spa is one of the finest Pueblo architecture fits seamlessly in the state. See p. 201. within the landscape, and the golf • Loews Ventana Canyon Resort course is the most breathtaking in (Tucson; & 800/234-5117; www. Arizona. See p. 91. loewshotels.com/hotels/tucson): • The Fairmont Scottsdale Princess With the Santa Catalina Mountains (Scottsdale; & 800/344-4758; www. rising in the backyard and a little fairmont.com/scottsdale): The Moor- waterfall steps away from the lobby, ish styling and numerous fountains this is Tucson’s most dramatic resort. and waterfalls of this resort create a Contemporary styling throughout setting made for romance. A beauti- makes constant reference to the ful spa, a challenging golf course, and desert setting. See p. 339.

15 The Best Family Resorts • Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort & hyatt.com): With children’s programs; Spa at Gainey Ranch (Scottsdale; a “Lost Dutchman Mine,” where chil- & 800/55-HYATT; www.scottsdale. dren can dig for buried treasure; and a 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARIZONA

1 10-pool, 2 ⁄2-acre water playground teens. Can you say fun for the whole complete with sand beach and water- family? See p. 96. falls, this place is a kid’s dream come • Loews Ventana Canyon Resort (Tuc- true. See p. 87. son; & 800/234-5117; www.loews • Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak Resort hotels.com/hotels/tucson): With a (Phoenix; & 800/876-4683; www. playground, a kids’ club, and its own pointehilton.com): A water slide, waterfall, this resort has plenty to keep tubing river, and waterfall make the the kids busy. A hiking trail starts from water park here one of the most fam- the edge of the property, and Sabino ily-oriented at any resort in the Val- Canyon Recreation Area is nearby. See ley. Throw in a miniature-golf course p. 339. and a children’s program, and you • The Westin La Paloma Resort & Spa can be sure your kids will beg to (Tucson; & 800/WESTIN-1; www. come back. See p. 95. westinlapalomaresort.com): Kids get • Arizona Grand Resort (Phoenix; their own lounge and game room & 866/267-1321; www.arizona here, and the pool area has a great grandresort.com): Let’s see . . . water water slide. In summer and during slides that drop nearly 70 feet, a wave holiday periods, special programs for pool, a water play area for the the kids allow their parents a little free youngest ones, a tubing river, horse- time. See p. 340. back riding, even spa treatments for

16 The Best Hotels for Old Arizona Character • Royal Palms Resort and Spa the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. (Phoenix; & 800/672-6011; www. The lobby may not be very big, but it royalpalmsresortandspa.com): With has the requisite trophy animal heads Mediterranean styling and towering and a stone fireplace. This place is palm trees, this place seems far utterly timeless. See p. 235. removed from the glitz that prevails • Grand Canyon Lodge (Grand at most area resorts. The Royal Palms Canyon North Rim; & 877/386- is a classic, perfect for romantic get- 4383; www.grandcanyonlodgenorth. aways, and its designer showcase com): This, the Grand Canyon’s rooms are among the most dramatic other grand lodge, sits right on the in the Valley. See p. 93. North Rim of the canyon. Rooms are • El Portal Sedona (Sedona; & 800/ primarily in cabins, which aren’t 313-0017; www.elportalsedona. quite as impressive as the main build- com): Built of hand-cast adobe ing, but guests tend to spend a lot of blocks and incorporating huge time sitting on the lodge’s two view- wooden beams salvaged from a rail- ing terraces or in the sunroom. See road trestle, this inn is a work of art p. 244. both inside and out. The mix of Arts • La Posada (Winslow; & 928/289- and Crafts and Santa Fe styling con- 4366; www.laposada.org): Designed jures up haciendas of old. See p. 207. by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, who • El Tovar Hotel (Grand Canyon Vil- also designed many of the buildings lage; & 888/297-2757; www.grand on the South Rim of the Grand canyonlodges.com): This classic log- Canyon, La Posada opened in 1930 and-stone mountain lodge stands in and was the last of the great Santa Fe Grand Canyon Village only feet from Railroad hotels. Today, the hotel has 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 15

THE BEST BED & BREAKFASTS 15 been restored to its former glory and fragrant gardens, this small Tucson is again one of the finest in the West. resort dates from Arizona’s earliest See p. 275. days as a vacation destination and • Arizona Inn (Tucson; & 800/933- epitomizes slower times, when guests 1093; www.arizonainn.com): With came for the winter, not just a quick its pink-stucco walls and colorful, weekend getaway. See p. 347.

17 The Best Bed & Breakfasts • Rocamadour Bed & Breakfast for just a block from the Temple of (Rock) Lovers (Prescott; & 888/ Music and Art, this territorial-style 771-1933): Set amid the rounded historic home is filled with beautiful boulders of the Granite Dells just Victorian antiques and architectural north of Prescott, this inn combines a details. Guest rooms have lots of spectacular setting with French touches not often seen in historic antiques and very luxurious accom- B&Bs, including “vintage” phones, modations. You won’t find a more TVs, fridges, and safes. See p. 336. memorable setting anywhere in the • La Zarzuela (Tucson; & 888/848- state. See p. 177. 8225; www.zarzuela-az.com): Perched • Hacienda de la Mariposa (Verde high on a hill on the west side of Tuc- Valley; & 888/520-9095; www. son, this luxurious B&B boasts great lamariposa-az.com): Set on the banks views, colorful decor, and loads of out- of Beaver Creek near Montezuma door spaces in which to relax in the Castle National Monument, this inn warmth of the desert. See p. 342. was built in the Santa Fe style and • Across the Creek at Aravaipa Farms blends beautifully with its surround- (Winkelman; & 520/357-6901; ings. See p. 186. www.aravaipafarms.com): This is the • Briar Patch Inn (Sedona; & 888/ quintessential desert B&B experi- 809-3030; www.briarpatchinn.com): ence, though it isn’t for everyone. To This collection of luxurious cottages reach this inn, you have to drive is located in tree-shaded Oak Creek through Aravaipa Creek (or have Canyon, a few miles north of Sedona. the innkeeper shuttle you across). Few experiences are more restorative Exploring the nearby wilderness area than breakfast on the shady banks of is the main activity in this remote the creek. See p. 203. locale. See p. 343. • The Inn at 410 (Flagstaff; & 800/ • Cochise Stronghold B&B (Cochise 774-2008; www.inn410.com): This County; & 877/426-4141; www. restored 1907 bungalow offers a cochisestrongholdbb.com): Sur- convenient location in downtown rounded by the national forest and Flagstaff, pleasant surroundings, com- mountainsides strewn with giant fortable rooms, and delicious break- boulders, this is another of the state’s fasts. Rooms all feature different, remote inns. The passive-solar build- distinctive themes. See p. 253. ing was constructed from straw bales • The Royal Elizabeth (Tucson; and is not only energy-efficient, but & 877/670-9022; www.royal also quite beautiful. See p. 428. elizabeth.com): In downtown Tucson 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARIZONA

18 The Best Swimming Pools • Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort & Resort, includes two lagoon pools, a Spa at Gainey Ranch (Scottsdale; 40-foot waterfall, a 138-foot water & 800/55-HYATT): This Scottsdale slide, and rental cabanas. See p. 96. 1 resort boasts a 10-pool, 2 ⁄2-acre water • Arizona Grand Resort (Phoenix; playground complete with sand beach, & 866/267-1321): The Oasis water sports pool, lap pool, adult pool, three- park here leaves other area resort story water slide, giant whirlpool, and pools high and dry. The wave pool, lots of waterfalls. See p. 87. tubing river, and two terrifyingly • The Phoenician (Scottsdale; & 800/ steep water slides are enough to make 888-8234): This resort’s seven pools summer in the desert almost bear- are as impressive as the Hyatt’s, but able. See p. 96. they have a much more sophisticated • The Buttes, A Marriott Resort air. Waterfalls, a water slide, play (Tempe; & 888/867-7492): A lush pools, a lap pool, and the crown stream cascading over desert rocks jewel—a mother-of-pearl pool (actu- seems to feed this free-form pool, a ally, opalescent tile)—add up to desert-oasis fantasy world you won’t plenty of aquatic fun. See p. 87. want to leave. A narrow canal con- • Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak Resort nects the two halves of the pool, and (Phoenix; & 800/876-4683): There’s tucked in among the rocks are several not just a pool here; there’s a River whirlpools. See p. 97. Ranch, with an artificial tubing river, a • The Westin La Paloma Resort & water slide, and a waterfall pouring Spa (Tucson; & 800/WESTIN-1): into the large free-form main pool. See With a 177-foot-long water slide and p. 95. enough poolside lounge chairs to put • Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort a cruise ship to shame, the pool at (Phoenix; & 800/876-4683): The this Tucson foothills resort is a fabu- Falls, a slightly more adult-oriented lous place to while away an after- pool complex than that at sister prop- noon. See p. 340. erty Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak

19 The Best Places to Savor Southwest Flavors • Cowboy Ciao (Scottsdale; & 480/ Southwest. The results, for many WINE-111): Scottsdale may not years, have been absolutely unforget- have many real cowboys anymore, table. See p. 111. but it has great cowboy chow. Forget • Fry Bread House (Phoenix; & 602/ burned steaks and chili; this place 351-2345): Unless you’ve traveled in serves the likes of buffalo carpaccio the Southwest before, you’ve proba- and blue-corn elk tostadas. See bly never had a fry-bread taco. This p. 101. stick-to-your-ribs dish is a staple on • Vincent’s on Camelback (Phoenix; Indian reservations throughout Ari- & 602/224-0225): Chef Vincent zona. The fry-bread tacos at this Guerithault has made a career of Phoenix restaurant are the best in the merging classic French culinary tech- state. See p. 115. niques with the robust flavors of the 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 17

THE BEST PLACES TO SAVOR SOUTHWEST FLAVORS 17 • Blue Adobe Grille (Mesa; & 480/ Janos has long been one of Tucson’s 962-1000): This nondescript restau- premier restaurants. While Janos is as rant in an otherwise forgettable area formal a place as you’ll find in this of Mesa serves some of the best city, J Bar is a more casual bar and Southwestern fare in the state. Meals grill. See p. 354 and 356. are flavorful (without being too • Café Poca Cosa (Tucson; & 520/ spicy), prices are great, and there’s 622-6400): Forget the gloppy melted even a good wine list. See p. 115. cheese and flavorless red sauces. This • Barking Frog Grille (Sedona; place treats south-of-the-border & 928/204-2000): This Sedona ingredients with the respect they restaurant has a split personality. One deserve. It’s Mexican food the likes of side of the restaurant is a very sophis- which you’ll never find at your local ticated dining room serving the best Mexican joint. See p. 346. Southwestern fare in the city. The • The Gold Room (Tucson; & 520/ other side of the restaurant offers 917-2930): The main dining room casual family dining with an empha- at Tucson’s Westward Look Resort sis on creative Mexican dishes. See combines Southwestern-inspired fla- p. 209. vors with a view that just won’t quit. • The Turquoise Room (Winslow; Although prices are quite high at din- & 928/289-2888): This restaurant ner, there are reasonably priced conjures up the days when the lunches. See p. 353. wealthy still traveled by railroad. • Terra Cotta (Tucson; & 520/577- Rarely will you find such superb 8100): Terra Cotta was one of Ari- meals in such an off-the-beaten-path zona’s pioneers in the realm of South- locale. See p. 275. western cuisine, and continues to • Janos/J Bar (Tucson; & 520/615- serve creative and reasonably priced 6100): Serving a combination of meals at its beautiful, art-filled restau- regional and Southwestern dishes, rant in the Tucson foothills. See p. 356.