Weekend Getaways Flagstaff, Sedona, Bisbee
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The snow-cloaked San Francisco Peaks loom over a wintry landscape near Flagstaff.| TOM BROWNOLD Weekend Getaways Flagstaff, Sedona, Bisbee ... there’s a lot to do in those three places, and trying to fit it all into one weekend can be tough. To make things a little easier, we put together itineraries of where to eat, sleep, hike and splurge. We also threw in some history, something for the kids and more. By Noah Austin, Robert Stieve & Kelly Vaughn Kramer 16 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 17 WEEKEND GETAWAYS Flagstaff EAT ally through an open grove of downtown, the Riordan Mansion Brix ponderosas, past the Kachina is actually two homes connected “Our menu changes season- Trail and into the Kachina Peaks by a “rendezvous room.” It was ally to ensure that we serve only Wilderness. Just past the wilder- built in 1904 for Timothy and the freshest ingredients from ness boundary, it skirts the ridge Michael Riordan, two brothers our local and regional network of a shaded canyon. The trees are who owned the Arizona Lumber of friends.” That’s the philoso- a kaleidoscope of greens in spring and Timber Co. They were phy at Brix, which is located in and summer. Moving on, the partners in just about every the historic Carriage House in trail becomes a series of gradual way — they even married a set of downtown Flagstaff. Among switchbacks, and the vegetation sisters. Today, the 13,000-square- others, its network includes changes from ponderosas and foot home is a state park, which Hayden Mills in Tempe, Ridgeview aspens to alpine species, includ- gives a detailed look at the lives Farms in Paulden and Black Mesa ing corkbark firs and Engelmann of the rich and famous in the Ranch in Snowflake. Through spruce. Eventually, it arrives at a early 1900s. Designed by Charles those sources, Brix is able to put point where the forest opens up Whittlesey, who also engineered together a dinner menu that and views of the peaks steal the the Grand Canyon’s El Tovar, the features selections such as chile- show. From there, it’s a quick hop home combines a rustic exterior roasted duck breast, a variety of to the top of Doyle Saddle, the (gnarly logs and native stone) artisan cheeses and a wine list turnaround point for this hike. with a rich interior (Tiffany stained that rivals the best restaurants in || Flagstaff Ranger District, 928- glass and a 1904 Steinway). || 409 Scottsdale. || 413 N. San Francisco 526-0866, www.fs.usda.gov/ W. Riordan Road, 928-779-4395, Street, 928-213-1021, www. coconino www.azstateparks.com brixflagstaff.com DRIVE KIDS HIKE Volcanoes & Ruins Loop Lowell Observatory Weatherford Trail History, geology, archaeology ... Of all the things Flagstaff is This easy-to-follow route that’s just some of what you’ll famous for, the brightest star (14.8 miles round-trip) begins at learn on this 73-mile (from might be the Lowell Observatory, Schultz Tank and climbs gradu- Flagstaff) scenic loop, which gets from which Pluto was discovered. especially scenic near Bonito Park Established in 1894 by Percival Campground, in the shadow of Lowell, the observatory sits about Sunset Crater. Heading north from 300 feet above the city. Lowell, PHOTO OP the prominent landmark, the road who moved west from New Eng- Monument. The Island Trail, a SPLURGE thing delicious. || 2924 E. Historic for travelers with a penchant for San Francisco drops from a landscape of trees land, was obsessed with the final 1-mile loop that starts at the Cherry Pie Route 66, 928-526-0104 history and literature. || 23 N. Peaks and lava to the desert grasslands frontier. More than anything, he visitors center, takes hikers past at Miz Zip’s Leroux Street, 928-779-1919, The mountain range of Wupatki National Monument, wanted to prove there were little 25 of these prehistoric rooms. For this listing, we singled out SLEEP www.weatherfordhotel.com that looms over where you’ll eventually arrive at green men on Mars, and Northern The trail is steep, dropping nearly cherry pie, but any of the pies at Weatherford Hotel Flagstaff includes the abandoned ruins of the Sina- Arizona, with its high altitude 200 feet, and coming out requires Miz Zip’s — lemon, blackberry, The Weatherford was a favorite BONUS Humphreys Peak, guan people. From the ruins, the and cloudless skies, seemed like a hike up 240 steps. Small by coconut, blueberry, apple, of Western novelist Zane Grey — Buffalo Park the highest point in rest of the loop winds for about the place to do it — Flagstaff was modern standards, the rooms rhubarb, pumpkin — qualify as so much so that in 1997, hotel pro- There are many great hikes in the Arizona, and it’s also 10 miles back to U.S. Route 89, designated the world’s first Inter- average about 80 square feet — comfort food. The delicate, flaky prietors opened a ballroom in his mountains around Flagstaff, but home to the state’s and then south back to Flagstaff. national Dark Sky City. To walk in enough space to sleep and store crust is a big part of that, but so honor. In one of his most famous they take time. For a quick dose only tundra region. || Sunset Crater Volcano National his footsteps, kid-friendly tours valuables. Homes were simple is the ambience of the restau- novels, Call of the Canyon, Grey of fresh air, head to Buffalo Park, Depending on the Monument, 928-526-0502, www. are offered daily. || 1400 W. Mars and systematic. After visiting the rant. Like all classic diners along mentioned a hotel fireplace that which sits atop McMillan Mesa in season, your photo nps.gov/sucr; Wupatki National Hill Road, 928-774-3358, www. ruins in the early 1900s, novel- Historic Route 66, this one comes hadn’t been used or even seen in the shadow of the San Francisco might include wild- Monument, 928-679-2365, www. lowell.edu ist Willa Cather wrote: “All the with comfy booths and nostalgia decades. Because of the book, it Peaks. The main attraction of flowers, storm clouds nps.gov/wupa houses in the canyon were clean of all sorts on the walls. The best was rediscovered behind parti- the park is an easy 2-mile loop or even a rainbow. HISTORY with the cleanness of sun-baked, part, though, is the green-marble, tions in the hotel’s restaurant. A that circles a grassy meadow. The | SHANE MCDERMOTT ATTRACTION Walnut Canyon wind-swept places, and they all horseshoe-shaped counter. Not pet project of John Weatherford, trail itself is wide and wheelchair Riordan Mansion National Monument smelled of the tough little cedars much has changed since Miz Zip’s a developer who also oversaw the accessible. Before it became a city For a taste of local Flagstaff Cliff dwellings are scattered that twisted themselves into the opened in 1952, and that’s a good construction of the town’s New park, the area was a private wild- Walnut Canyon is home to history, head to the Riordan throughout the Southwest, but very doorways.” || 3 Walnut Can- thing. Especially if you’re willing Weatherford Opera House — now life park. Thus the name. || 2400 some of the Southwest’s most Mansion. Pronounced “Rear-din” few are more accessible than yon Road, 928-526-3367, www. to forget about calories for a few the Orpheum — the hotel opened N. Gemini Road, 800-379-0065, accessible cliff dwellings.| TOM BEAN and located a mile or so from those in Walnut Canyon National nps.gov/waca minutes and splurge on some- in 1900. Today, it’s a favorite stop www.flagstaffarizona.org 18 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 19 WEEKEND GETAWAYS Sedona EAT Mountain Wilderness. There, the office. That’s how Sedona was Instead, you’ll pay a $1 admis- all bargain in Sedona” and the Elote Café sounds of the city disappear and born. Today, the 13-mile Schnebly sion fee, and you’ll pay (by total “best breakfast in Sedona.” When it comes to Mexican food, you’ll catch your first glimpse of Hill Road remains about as rug- length) for each trout you catch. || 2050 State Route 89A, 928-282- chef Jeff Smedstad knows what’s Sedona’s famed red rocks. Unlike ged as it originally was, and it The farm encourages you to pack 6626, www.coffeepotsedona.com what. After traveling across some of the more famous trails to climbs through red-rock canyons in additional food to create a full- Mexico, eating in local markets the north, this one isn’t domi- to its intersection with Interstate fledged meal. Mac and cheese SLEEP and culling authentic ingredients nated by the picturesque geology 17, traversing some of the area’s optional. || 3500 State Route Garland’s Oak Creek Lodge — and garnering mucho respect that epitomizes Sedona. Instead, most beautiful scenery. The main 89A, 928-282-5799, www.sedona With the possible exception of for his efforts at Los Sombreros its highlight is a beautiful riparian attraction of the drive is Schnebly rainbowtroutfarm.com El Tovar, which has the unfair in Scottsdale — he opened Elote area and plenty of solitude. The Hill Vista. At an elevation of advantage of being perched on Café in 2008. Since then, it’s been trail is most spectacular where it 6,000 feet, it overlooks Steam- HISTORY the edge of the world’s Seventh Sedona’s go-to place for tortillas, meets the intersection of Rattle- boat Rock, Oak Creek, Mingus Palatki Heritage Site Natural Wonder, Garland’s Oak tamales and, of course, elote.