The snow-cloaked San Francisco Peaks loom over a wintry landscape near Flagstaff.| TOM BROWNOLD Weekend Getaways Flagstaff, Sedona, Bisbee ... there’s a lot to do in those three places, and trying to fit it all into one weekend can be tough. To make things a little easier, we put together itineraries of where to eat, sleep, hike and splurge. We also threw in some history, something for the kids and more. By Noah Austin, Robert Stieve & Kelly Vaughn Kramer

16 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 17 WEEKEND GETAWAYS Flagstaff

EAT ally through an open grove of downtown, the Riordan Mansion Brix ponderosas, past the Kachina is actually two homes connected “Our menu changes season- Trail and into the Kachina Peaks by a “rendezvous room.” It was ally to ensure that we serve only Wilderness. Just past the wilder- built in 1904 for Timothy and the freshest ingredients from ness boundary, it skirts the ridge Michael Riordan, two brothers our local and regional network of a shaded canyon. The trees are who owned the Arizona Lumber of friends.” That’s the philoso- a kaleidoscope of greens in spring and Timber Co. They were phy at Brix, which is located in and summer. Moving on, the partners in just about every the historic Carriage House in trail becomes a series of gradual way — they even married a set of downtown Flagstaff. Among switchbacks, and the vegetation sisters. Today, the 13,000-square- others, its network includes changes from ponderosas and foot home is a state park, which Hayden Mills in Tempe, Ridgeview aspens to alpine species, includ- gives a detailed look at the lives Farms in Paulden and Black Mesa ing corkbark firs and Engelmann of the rich and famous in the Ranch in Snowflake. Through spruce. Eventually, it arrives at a early 1900s. Designed by Charles those sources, Brix is able to put point where the forest opens up Whittlesey, who also engineered together a dinner menu that and views of the peaks steal the the Grand Canyon’s El Tovar, the features selections such as chile- show. From there, it’s a quick hop home combines a rustic exterior roasted duck breast, a variety of to the top of Doyle Saddle, the (gnarly logs and native stone) artisan cheeses and a wine list turnaround point for this hike. with a rich interior (Tiffany stained that rivals the best restaurants in || Flagstaff Ranger District, 928- glass and a 1904 Steinway). || 409 Scottsdale. || 413 N. San Francisco 526-0866, www.fs.usda.gov/ W. Riordan Road, 928-779-4395, Street, 928-213-1021, www. coconino www.azstateparks.com brixflagstaff.com DRIVE KIDS HIKE Volcanoes & Ruins Loop Lowell Observatory Weatherford Trail History, geology, archaeology ... Of all the things Flagstaff is This easy-to-follow route that’s just some of what you’ll famous for, the brightest star (14.8 miles round-trip) begins at learn on this 73-mile (from might be the Lowell Observatory, Schultz Tank and climbs gradu- Flagstaff) scenic loop, which gets from which Pluto was discovered. especially scenic near Bonito Park Established in 1894 by Percival Campground, in the shadow of Lowell, the observatory sits about Sunset Crater. Heading north from 300 feet above the city. Lowell, PHOTO OP the prominent landmark, the road who moved west from New Eng- Monument. The Island Trail, a SPLURGE thing delicious. || 2924 E. Historic for travelers with a penchant for San Francisco drops from a landscape of trees land, was obsessed with the final 1-mile loop that starts at the Cherry Pie Route 66, 928-526-0104 history and literature. || 23 N. Peaks and lava to the desert grasslands frontier. More than anything, he visitors center, takes hikers past at Miz Zip’s Leroux Street, 928-779-1919, The mountain range of Wupatki National Monument, wanted to prove there were little 25 of these prehistoric rooms. For this listing, we singled out SLEEP www.weatherfordhotel.com that looms over where you’ll eventually arrive at green men on Mars, and Northern The trail is steep, dropping nearly cherry pie, but any of the pies at Weatherford Hotel Flagstaff includes the abandoned ruins of the Sina- Arizona, with its high altitude 200 feet, and coming out requires Miz Zip’s — lemon, blackberry, The Weatherford was a favorite BONUS Humphreys Peak, guan people. From the ruins, the and cloudless skies, seemed like a hike up 240 steps. Small by coconut, blueberry, apple, of Western novelist Zane Grey — Buffalo Park the highest point in rest of the loop winds for about the place to do it — Flagstaff was modern standards, the rooms rhubarb, pumpkin — qualify as so much so that in 1997, hotel pro- There are many great hikes in the Arizona, and it’s also 10 miles back to U.S. Route 89, designated the world’s first Inter- average about 80 square feet — comfort food. The delicate, flaky prietors opened a ballroom in his mountains around Flagstaff, but home to the state’s and then south back to Flagstaff. national Dark Sky City. To walk in enough space to sleep and store crust is a big part of that, but so honor. In one of his most famous they take time. For a quick dose only tundra region. || Sunset Crater Volcano National his footsteps, kid-friendly tours valuables. Homes were simple is the ambience of the restau- novels, Call of the Canyon, Grey of fresh air, head to Buffalo Park, Depending on the Monument, 928-526-0502, www. are offered daily. || 1400 W. Mars and systematic. After visiting the rant. Like all classic diners along mentioned a hotel fireplace that which sits atop McMillan Mesa in season, your photo nps.gov/sucr; Wupatki National Hill Road, 928-774-3358, www. ruins in the early 1900s, novel- Historic Route 66, this one comes hadn’t been used or even seen in the shadow of the San Francisco might include wild- Monument, 928-679-2365, www. lowell.edu ist Willa Cather wrote: “All the with comfy booths and nostalgia decades. Because of the book, it Peaks. The main attraction of flowers, storm clouds nps.gov/wupa houses in the canyon were clean of all sorts on the walls. The best was rediscovered behind parti- the park is an easy 2-mile loop or even a rainbow. HISTORY with the cleanness of sun-baked, part, though, is the green-marble, tions in the hotel’s restaurant. A that circles a grassy meadow. The | SHANE MCDERMOTT ATTRACTION Walnut Canyon wind-swept places, and they all horseshoe-shaped counter. Not pet project of John Weatherford, trail itself is wide and wheelchair Riordan Mansion National Monument smelled of the tough little cedars much has changed since Miz Zip’s a developer who also oversaw the accessible. Before it became a city For a taste of local Flagstaff Cliff dwellings are scattered that twisted themselves into the opened in 1952, and that’s a good construction of the town’s New park, the area was a private wild- Walnut Canyon is home to history, head to the Riordan throughout the Southwest, but very doorways.” || 3 Walnut Can- thing. Especially if you’re willing Weatherford Opera House — now life park. Thus the name. || 2400 some of the Southwest’s most Mansion. Pronounced “Rear-din” few are more accessible than yon Road, 928-526-3367, www. to forget about calories for a few the Orpheum — the hotel opened N. Gemini Road, 800-379-0065, accessible cliff dwellings.| TOM BEAN and located a mile or so from those in Walnut Canyon National nps.gov/waca minutes and splurge on some- in 1900. Today, it’s a favorite stop www.flagstaffarizona.org

18 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 19 WEEKEND GETAWAYS Sedona

EAT Mountain Wilderness. There, the office. That’s how Sedona was Instead, you’ll pay a $1 admis- all bargain in Sedona” and the Elote Café sounds of the city disappear and born. Today, the 13-mile Schnebly sion fee, and you’ll pay (by total “best breakfast in Sedona.” When it comes to Mexican food, you’ll catch your first glimpse of Hill Road remains about as rug- length) for each trout you catch. || 2050 State Route 89A, 928-282- chef Jeff Smedstad knows what’s Sedona’s famed red rocks. Unlike ged as it originally was, and it The farm encourages you to pack 6626, www.coffeepotsedona.com what. After traveling across some of the more famous trails to climbs through red-rock canyons in additional food to create a full- Mexico, eating in local markets the north, this one isn’t domi- to its intersection with Interstate fledged meal. Mac and cheese SLEEP and culling authentic ingredients nated by the picturesque geology 17, traversing some of the area’s optional. || 3500 State Route Garland’s Oak Creek Lodge — and garnering mucho respect that epitomizes Sedona. Instead, most beautiful scenery. The main 89A, 928-282-5799, www.sedona With the possible exception of for his efforts at Los Sombreros its highlight is a beautiful riparian attraction of the drive is Schnebly rainbowtroutfarm.com El Tovar, which has the unfair in Scottsdale — he opened Elote area and plenty of solitude. The Hill Vista. At an elevation of advantage of being perched on Café in 2008. Since then, it’s been trail is most spectacular where it 6,000 feet, it overlooks Steam- HISTORY the edge of the world’s Seventh Sedona’s go-to place for tortillas, meets the intersection of Rattle- boat Rock, Oak Creek, Mingus Palatki Heritage Site Natural Wonder, Garland’s Oak tamales and, of course, elote. The snake and Woods canyons and Mountain, the Verde Valley and, In the Hopi language, Palatki Creek Lodge is arguably the most fire-roasted corn, inspired by the drops into the boulder-strewn of course, the town of Sedona, translates to “Red House.” And scenic place to spend a night in cobs peddled by Mexican street wash of Dry Beaver Creek. || Red which has grown by leaps and even though the Hopis have no Arizona. Lodge, hotel, B&B, camp- vendors, comes served with spicy Rock Ranger District, 928-282- bounds since Schnebly petitioned specific ties to the ruins, Palatki site … good luck finding accommo- mayo, lime and cotija cheese. 4119, www.fs.usda.gov/coconino for that post office.|| Red Rock and its sister site, Honanki, were dations with a better view. And, it’s a primo antecedent to Ranger District, 928-282-4119, the largest Sinaguan cliff dwell- Located in the heart of Oak Creek a spate of other authentic menu DRIVE www.fs.usda.gov/coconino ings in the area between A.D. 1100 Canyon, about 8 miles north of items, from carne asada to lamb Schnebly Hill Road and A.D. 1300. In other words, Sedona, Garland’s is surrounded adobo. || 771 State Route 179, 928- When Carl Schnebly arrived in ATTRACTION ages ago. Today, the ruins are by millions of years of red-rock 203-0105, www.elotecafe.com Oak Creek in 1900, he used what Chapel of the Holy Cross accessible via three trails: one geology, towering pines and was then known as Munds Road The Chapel of the Holy Cross that takes you up to the dwell- hearty oaks. Among other things, HIKE — a former wagon route — to has been one of Sedona’s most ings, one that climbs to a view the large cabins at the lodge Woods Canyon Trail transport lumber from Flagstaff. beloved landmarks since 1956. The of the dwellings and another come with wood-burning fire- This easy-to-follow, 8-mile- Then, he used the lumber to build concrete-and-glass structure is that leads to alcoves that shelter places, and the small creekside round-trip trail begins just off a home, used the road once again dominated by a 90-foot cross and pictographs made by the native cabins feature porches overlook- State Route 179, but within to ferry produce to his general was conceptualized by sculptor people who occupied the Verde ing Oak Creek. Other than maybe minutes, it enters the Munds store, and petitioned for a post Marguerite Brunswig Staude, who, Valley. Groups of up to 10 people a room perched on the edge of after years of land-purchasing and are allowed access to the dwell- the Grand Canyon, it doesn’t get permit acquisitions, finally hired ings in 20-minute intervals, and any better than this. || 8067 State San Francisco architects Anshen & reservations are recommended. Route 89A, 928-282-3343, www. Allen to design the Catholic chapel. Otherwise, you may have to garlandslodge.com Today, people of all denomina- wait ages for access. || Red Rock tions and from around the globe Ranger District, 928-282-3854 BONUS visit the chapel, which is operated (reservations), www.fs.usda.gov/ Sedona Bike & Bean by the Roman Catholic Diocese coconino Weekend adventurers are known of Phoenix. || 780 Chapel Road, for their dine-and-dash mentality 928-282-4069, www.chapelofthe SPLURGE — not in the juvenile-thievery con- holycross.com Omelets at Coffee notation of the phrase, but in the Pot Restaurant grab-a-bite-and-get-on-the-road KIDS There are 101 omelets on the sense of it. That’s what makes Rainbow Trout Farm menu at Coffee Pot Restaurant. Sedona Bike & Bean so great. Kids and fishin’ go together like One hundred. And one. Some There, you can rent a mountain mac and cheese, and at Sedona’s of them might sound a little bike for cruising Sedona’s count- Rainbow Trout Farm, little ones strange — take the jelly, peanut less trails and grab a latte for can hook a trout or 10. Tucked butter and banana option, for the road at the store’s nine-seat along Oak Creek and promising example — but if you’re looking to coffee counter. Many bike tours, PHOTO OP entertainment for the entire pack in some protein before you including some that explore the Red Rock Country family, the farm also offers fishing dart around town, the Coffee Pot trails near Bell Rock — just outside Sedona’s sandstone formations are among the most equipment, bait, picnic tables is your best bet. Since the 1950s, the Bike & Bean’s windows — photographed rocks in the world, and they contrast and grill kits — lemon, butter, salt, the family owned restaurant has depart from the shop. || 75 Bell nicely with the surrounding green foliage. For the best Snow blankets the landscape of Oak Creek, a popular hiking pepper and utensils. There’s no been a favorite among locals, Rock Plaza, 928-284-0210, www. photos, have your camera ready around sunrise or destination just north of Sedona. | MARK FRANK catch-and-release policy here. who’ve dubbed it “the best over- bike-bean.com sunset. | GUY SCHMICKLE

20 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 21 WEEKEND GETAWAYS Bisbee

EAT network of short, easy trails, in- Landmark, home to a ranch that Café Roka cluding one that parallels the San dates to the 1840s. And if you’re The historic Costello Building Pedro River. It’s been designated a fan of scenic landscapes, there opened in 1907, and thanks to its a Globally Important Bird Area, are plenty along this route, pressure-fired bricks, it withstood and the Bureau of Land Manage- including views of the Peloncillo a 1908 fire that leveled much of ment has documented more than Mountains. || Douglas Ranger Bisbee. Since 1993, it’s housed 370 avian species there, including District, 520-364-3468, www. Café Roka, which serves up chef- green kingfishers, Lucy’s warblers fs.usda.gov/coronado owner Rod Kass’ unique takes on and yellow-billed cuckoos. modern American cuisine. Roka’s || Friends of the San Pedro River, ATTRACTION menu changes often, but regulars’ www.sanpedroriver.org; Bureau Mining & Historical Museum favorites include lamb meatballs, of Land Management, 520-439- Bisbee started out as a copper- lobster ravioli and roasted duck. 6400, www.blm.gov/az mining town, and this Smithson- If you’re looking for something ian-affiliated museum celebrates really unique, try Kass’ lasa- DRIVE that heritage with Digging In, gna, which includes portobello Geronimo Trail an award-winning exhibit that mushrooms and artichokes. || 35 Once a major migration corridor explores how copper-mining Main Street, 520-432-5153, www. for Apache Indians and Spanish contributed to the electrifica- caferoka.com explorers, this route extends tion of America in the late 1800s. 80 miles from Douglas, Arizona, You’ll also find a research library HIKE to Animas, New Mexico. Today, it that includes 100 years of local San Pedro Riparian offers scenery and solitude along newspapers on microfilm and National Conservation Area the U.S.-Mexico border. History 7,000 historical photographs. Bird watchers flock to this 57,000- buffs will want to stop at the || 5 Copper Queen Plaza, 520-432- acre preserve, which features a San Bernardino National Historic 7071, www.bisbeemuseum.org

KIDS Queen Mine Tour There’s no pickax experience necessary on this tour, which takes visitors on a train ride 1,500 feet into one of Bisbee’s most famous copper mines. The mine shut down in the 1970s, but since then, more than a mil- lion people have taken the trip underground. The tour guides are retired miners who share their PHOTO OP own stories about the dangers Seven Cities of Cibola. Attractions The coffee shop usually has It later reopened, and today it is a 30-something woman named Chihuahua Hill and drama of mining. And even include 600-foot-long Coronado eight ice-cream flavors (includ- rents out seven newly renovated Julia Lowell. The story goes that Known locally as in summer, you’ll want to take a Cave, which features numerous ing non-dairy options) available, rooms. In 2004, Bisbee artist Rose Lowell was a prostitute who used “B” Mountain (for sweater: The temperature in the limestone formations, and a sce- along with milkshakes, fudge and Johnson painted a mural on the the hotel to rendezvous with obvious reasons), mine is a constant 47 degrees. nic overlook at Montezuma Pass. other sweet treats. || 2 Copper side of the motel; it’s based on clients. She fell in love with one this 5,900-foot peak || 478 N. Dart Road, 866-432-2071, || Coronado National Memorial, Queen Plaza, 520-432-7931, www. a 1928 poem by Federico García of them, but when he didn’t fall overlooks Bisbee and www.queenminetour.com 520-366-5515, www.nps.gov/coro bisbeecoffee.com Lorca. || 317 Tombstone Canyon for her, she took her own life. offers great views of Road, 866-432-7371, www. Today, the Julia Lowell Room at the town. A short, HISTORY SPLURGE SLEEP thejonquil.com the hotel is named in Lowell’s easy trail to the top Coronado National Memorial Ice Cream at Jonquil Motel honor, and male employees and begins at the end of Located along the U.S.-Mexico Bisbee Coffee Co. A jonquil is a type of flower, but BONUS guests have reported hearing a OK Street in down- border, this memorial honors You might be a little chilly if you the Jonquil got its name from its Copper Queen Hotel feminine whisper and seeing a town Bisbee. Francisco Vázquez de Coro- just came out of the Queen Mine, founder, John Quill. He built the Bisbee is famous for its alleged woman dancing at the foot of | JILL RICHARDS nado, who explored much of the but once you’ve warmed up with motel in the 1930s, and he and his ghostly residents, and three of the stairs. || 11 Howell Avenue, Coronado National Memorial’s Montezuma Pass offers a view Southwest in the 1540s while a triple latte at Bisbee Coffee Co., family ran it until Bisbee’s copper them purportedly reside at the 520-432-2216, www.copper south into Mexico. | GEORGE H.H. HUEY he searched for the mythical how about something sweet? mines shut down in the 1970s. Copper Queen. The most famous queen.com

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