ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams

A Land

From craggy sandstone spires to deeply hued buttes, 20 Arizona’s Red Rock Country radiates natural beauty Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 ROUTE 66 Road Trip

he first rays of sunlight told. “Fact is, you’ll be hard-pressed brush gingerly over to find a bad place to take a picture.” Red Rock Country, as if In many ways, it is a fierce nudging colors awake. land. The pebbled desert floor is TPigments emerge cautiously: populated by thorny, angry-look- deep violets gradually giving way ing vegetation. Prickly pear cactus to bands of burnt umber and cin- and cat claw acacia compete with namon, streaks of rusty iron and manzanita, juniper and larkspur. tawny buff. Within moments, the Summer heat can be oppressive rocky land surrounding Sedona — peak visitor’s season runs fall ignites with intense, eye-popping through spring. Signs everywhere hues, blushing with the slightest caution about rattlesnakes. In fact, shift of sunlight. gaze upon this vast, wrinkled topog- To a group of early-rising onlook- raphy and it’s hard to imagine this ers, perched atop a windy mesa land giving life to anything. And above the small northern Arizona yet, Red Rock Country seems to town, it was as if someone had flung pulse with its own eccentric energy, open the lid to an artist’s paintbox, awash in a thundering silence. the desert exposed in a palette of vibrant shades. Red Rock by RV All around, cameras click and The secret to visiting this natural hum like a herd of paparazzi. wonderland by trailer or motorhome Just north of Sedona, Oak Creek dashes across massive sandstone slabs at Slide “This was why we crawled up is to plan well in advance. There are Rock State Park — a popular swimming spot on hot days and a favorite destination here in the dark,” sighed Elaine plenty of camping options, from prim- for hiking and picnicking year-round. Burke, of Monmouth, N.J., tak- itive campsites with no hookups on or renting something in the area. Reserve two campsites, one for your ing pictures on her cell phone to public land to well-appointed private While plenty of parking lots accom- trailer, one for your truck. At $16 a send to her sister. “I just can’t stop RV parks. But be aware that many modate larger RVs, getting out into night, it’s still an affordable option. looking.” campgrounds — especially those the desert terrain to reach trailheads “It’s beautiful up here in the For newcomers, it’s hard not operated by the U.S. Forest Service could play havoc with a big rig. A fall — our favorite time,” Rebecca to gawk at Red Rock Country, a — impose a maximum RV length tow car would also make it easier observed. “The color in the leaves is geologic sculpture garden erupting at their campsites. Those limits vary to actually explore Sedona’s com- lovely, and while it still gets warm with rock formations gnawed by dramatically, from 22 feet at Beaver mercial district. during the day, the nights cool down time, pine-carpeted plauteaus, rain- Creek to 40 feet at Chavez Crossing. Research will pay off. More than fast.” Even getting to Red Rock bow-colored canyons, and soothing And some sites stay open 4 million people visit Red Rock Country can be fun. If approach- oak-lined creeks. Tucked within the year-round, while others don’t. country every year, and for good ing from the south, you’ll want to sprawling embrace of the Coconino Also, U.S. Forest Service camp- reason. It’s a unique, technicolor follow I-17 to State Highway 179, National Forest, it is a land unto itself grounds are generally operated on playground, as well suited to those which winds north through Red — there is nothing quite like it. a “first come, first serve” basis; seeking solitude and spiritual clarity Rock State Park and the Village of And there is much to offer here: there are a few sites that will take as it is for families with a trailer-full Oak Creek into the heart of Sedona. a hundred miles of trails for hik- reservations for some of their camp- of fidgety children to entertain. (Note: When we visited in mid- ers and mountain bikers; a thriving sites; very few provide hookups. If At Pineflat Campground, north November, heavy road construction artistic community; camping and you find that public campgrounds of Sedona off State Highway 89A, along State Highway 179 added fishing; spa treatments; spiritual are full, check out the town of Mark and Rebecca Lenz praised about 30 minutes onto the trip — experiences; and a magnificent can- Cottonwood, 20 miles southwest the surrounding hiking trails as a which wasn’t entirely awful, given vas to capture on camera. of Sedona on State Route 89A, or great diversion for young campers. the terrific scenery.) For shutterbugs, it just doesn’t Flagstaff, 30 miles north on State The Phoenix-based couple say they At your earliest opportunity get any better. Drop into a local Route 89A. try to make it to the campground at — and there will be many along the Visitor’s Center and ask about a Take it all into account when least once a year with their 25-foot way — pull over and invest in a Red great place to take pictures. Chances contemplating a trip here. And if Dutchmen trailer, sometimes meet- Rock Pass, available at any Forest are you’ll be greeted with a broad, you are driving a large motorhome, ing up with friends and family. Service Gateway Visitor Center, at knowing smile. you might want to seriously con- To work with RV length limits at Red Rock Ranger District and even “Just about anywhere,” we were template bringing along a tow car, the campground, they offer this tip: local Circle K stores. Sedona essen-

From dramatic rock formations to quiet campgrounds, from exploring remnants of ancient civilization to hiking and mountain biking a labyrinth of desert trails, Arizona’s Red Rock Country is more than just a pretty face; recreational opportunities abound here. 21 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 (far left) Mighty Cathedral Rock is one of the most photographed rock formations in Arizona’s Red Rock Country. (top middle) Sitting high atop the rocks, the Chapel of the Holy Cross mixes man-made achievement with nature’s own architecture. (upper right) Hikers love to follow the scenic pathways along Oak Creek at Red Rock Crossing and Crescent Moon Ranch. (near left) Hiking doesn’t always mean desert treks; Red Rock Country offers its share of woodsy walks. (middle left) Mark and Rebecca Lenz, of Phoenix, enjoy coming to Pineflat Campground, north of Sedona, magnificent canvas at least once a year. tially sits in the center of Coconino A feast for the feet find Seven Sacred Pools, a string Hikers and bikers should observe National Forest. If you pull off the You’ll know you’re nearing Red of rain-water-fed pools planted in a basic trail courtesy. Also, always highway anywhere along the way, Rock Country when the landscape sandstone ledge. plan to carry more water than you including trailheads, you are expect- seems to open, revealing spicy-hued Wander past ancient pueblo ruins think you’ll need and rehydrate ed to display the pass — a relative rock formations, as vivid as a gap- on the Boynton Canyon Trail. Hikers often. At this elevation, hats and bargain at $5 a day, $15 for seven ing wound. Suddenly, the rolling can follow well-cut trails maintained sunscreen are a must, no matter consecutive days, or $20 for an desert landscape turns vertical and by the National Forest Service or the time of year. Because desert annual pass. even a little mystical. make their own way with the help of temperatures can plunge to chilly The exception? If you pull over Like the exposed spires and pin- private guidebooks. Trails can also depths at night, it’s also a good idea for 15 minutes or less to take a pic- nacles — a lovely product of the lead you deep into two designated to bring extra clothing. On extended ture or study the scenery. It’s worth eroding power of wind, water and wilderness areas, Red Rock-Secret or back-counry hikes, carry a com- noting that Golden Age Passport ice — this is a land filled with lay- Mountain to the north and Munds pass, flashlight, snack and water- holders — and their passengers ers of intrigue. The only question? Mountain to the south. proof matches just to be safe. — are permitted in lieu of the Red Where to start. It’s worth stopping Expect to see mountain bik- Rock Pass. The pass, however, is by one of the many visitor’s kiosks ers. Though select hiking trails are Photos at every turn not inclusive. Be expected to pay for maps and expert advice on how off-limits, Red Rock Country is a The same scenery that appeals to visitor’s fees when stopping in to proceed. Mecca to mountain bikers. Over a hikers and bikers will make photo nearby state parks, campgrounds Hiking is a great way to take an gigantic omelette at the Coffee Pot buffs positively drool. The drama and day use areas. initial survey of the landscape, and Restaurant one morning, a moun- of geologic architecture everywhere The region is bursting with things you’ll find trails for every level of tain bike enthusiast from San Diego you look invites shutterbugs to play to see and do, so give yourself a few fitness; the sheer variety of scen- explained it this way: “It’s not just here, with great access to it all. You days to take it in. At an elevation of ery never ceases to amaze. Take a the number of trails I can choose can take a rigorous hike to photo- about 4,500 feet, weather tends to leisurely stroll through Red Rock from; it’s the quality and the fact graph hidden marvels, follow well- be warm, but temperate, much of the Crossing/Crescent Moon Ranch pic- that so many are located so close to worn paths, or simply pull over and year. Most people seek out Red Rock nic area, mostly along paved path- town [Sedona].” roll down the window of your RV. Country during the mildest seasons, ways, and you’ll be rewarded with a March through May and September splendid view of majestic Cathedral ROUTE 66 through November. Consider a visit Rock — while you’re at it, plan to Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network® Dealers: during late fall and winter, when picnic alongside Oak Creek. Little Dealer, Little Prices Little Dealer, Little Prices days still warm well into the 60s and Walk about half-a-mile from the 2038 N. Country Club 2400 W. Indian School Rd. crowds are the thinnest. end of Soldier Pass Road and you’ll Mesa, AZ 85201 Phoenix, AZ 85015 (480) 834-9581 (602) 263-9267 22 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 Get a Motorhome and SUV all in one.

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To find out why Roadtrek is the #1 selling North American class B motorhome (camper van), visit us at www.roadtrek.com/SNRT or call us toll free at 1-888-ROADTREK (762-3873). Don’t forget • Sunscreen, hat and other heavenly scenery sun protectants — even in winter. Local experts suggest making the Sacred spaces, texes,” described as metaphysical • A canteen or water bottle most of the marvelous light found creative juices power points where energy is said • Sturdy hiking boots at sunrise and sunset. In Sedona, Rising early one morning to to flow from the earth. If you’d • A reliable camera follow Airport Road to the top of catch sunrise, we found ourselves like to check out the Vortex Scene • Geology guidebook the mesa for a fabulous overlook bundled against a chilly pre-dawn for yourself, consider treks to Bell that can draw up to 100 onlookers breeze atop a rock overlooking Rock, Cathedral Rock, the Airport any day of the week. On the way Sedona. From the next rock over, Mesa and Boynton Canyon. Of up, you’ll see a massive rock to we could hear a cluster of people course, you can always sign up for your left — a recognizable trailhead making strange “oohing” noises, not a Vortex Tour, where you can track — that lends terrific sunrise views. unlike a cow calling to her calf. the earth’s energy from the comfort Peak light can come and go “Ah, they’re toning,” explained of a desert jeep. quickly. The rocks explode in blaz- a local, adding that the meditative Once you’ve satisfied your curi- ing color at sunset, but may fade practice involved creating extended osity, wander back to town. Sedona within 10 minutes or less. There sounds using a single vowel, like is a melting-pot of creative people, is so much to see and photograph one long, loud, vibrating breath. and home to a burgeoning artistic here it’s tempting to quickly burn Next, the rock burst forth in community, where you’re likely to through rolls of film or memory maniacal forced laughter. “I want spot sculpture even perched upon cards. Slow down and take time to what they’re having for breakfast,” the roof of a gas station. study the place first. The scenery quipped an onlooker. Some 80 art galleries can be isn’t going anywhere. “Oh, laughter meditation,” the found here; stroll the colorful store- Professional photographers also local woman said. “Very popular.” fronts in Uptown Sedona or check Where to stay • Beaver Creek suggest looking beyond obvious Given the heavenly scenery, it’s out Tlaquepaque, a cluster of shops, Campground: U.S. Forest prominent rock formations. Desert little wonder that many find Red restaurants and art galleries set in a Service, RVs up to 22 flora and clear mountain creeks are Rock Country a supremely spiri- faithful re-creation of an 18th cen- feet, southeast of Sedona also a part of the land, and worth tual setting — some might even say, tury Spanish Colonial village. off Highway 179, (928) 567-4121 documenting. supernatural. Today, Sedona residents work • Cave Springs Campground: A few no-fail places to check out Crystals, alternative healing, hard to keep their small town from U.S. Forest Service, RVs up for great photos: yoga, medicine wheels, and auras turning into Disneyland-in-the- to 36 feet, north of Sedona • Chapel of the Holy Cross: built are woven deeply into the fab- Desert. It’s said to be one of the only off Highway 89A, into the towering sandstone land- ric of local life around Sedona, communities in the nation where the (928) 282-4119 • Chavez Crossing scape at the end of Chapel Road, which began to feel the New Age local McDonald’s doesn’t display Campground: U.S. Forest off State Highway 179, south of influence in the early 1980s. In golden arches; they’re a soft teal and Service, RVs up to 40 Sedona. Intriguing architecture, a fact, in 1987 Sedona hosted some subtly presented on a low, tasteful feet, between Sedona and great place for spiritual reflection, 5,000 believers at the Harmonic sign. Here, you won’t find towering Village of Oak Creek off fabulous sunset views. Convergence festival. signs competing with the scenery. Highway 179, (928) 292-4119 • Centennial Trail Overlook: You can’t visit without hearing It’s nice to avoid commercial • Clear Creek Campground: Head west out of Sedona on State about the famed “Red Rock vor- glut, but the absence of signage U.S. Forest Service, RVs Highway 89A; turn right onto the up to 32 feet, southeast road directly across the highway of Camp Verde, Highway from Upper Red Rock Loop. Park 260, (928) 567-4121 and hike in 1/3 mile to see a great • Dead Horse Ranch State Park: 150 RV sites, off 10th wall of red rock to the north. Best to Street north of Cottonwood, photograph mid-afternoon. (928) 634-5238 • Red Rock Crossing: Oak Creek • Lo-Lo-Mai Springs ambles about the foot of massive Campground: private, 100 RV sites, west of Cathedral Rock. One of the most Sedona at Page Springs, photographed sites in Arizona. 11505 Lo-Lo-Mai Road, • Slide Rock State Park: Take (928) 0634-4700 State Highway 89A north from • Pineflat Campground: Sedona. Between canyon walls, U.S. Forest Service, north of Sedona off Highway Oak Creek dashes over huge sand- 89A, (928) 282-4119 stone slabs popular with swimmers. • Rancho Sedona RV Park: Lovely in the fall. 84 RV sites, Sedona, Highway 179 and (above) Crowds routinely gather atop Airport Mesa to catch the sunset over Schnebley Hill Road Sedona — an explosion of rich colors the evening light coaxes from the red (928) 282-7255. rocks. (top right) Campers enjoy the verdant serenity of Pineflat Campground, 24 north of Sedona. Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6

history galore in Sedona can also make it tough Service. To find them, take State to find basic services. Here’s a Highway 89A west for 9.5 miles suggestion: You’ll find a Safeway from where it intersects with State superstore, several natural foods Highway 179 in Sedona. Take a groceries, and a large Walgreen’s right on Forest Service Road 525, pharmacy along the stretch of drive six miles to where Forest Highway 89A that cuts through Service Road 795 breaks off to the West Sedona. In-town drivers, take right and take Forest Road 795 for note: Sedona streets are diligently two more miles to its end. A trail patrolled for speeding. It was not leading north for 0.2 miles will good eats, great sites unusual to see about three vehicles take you to Palatki Heritage Site; a • Visit Chapel of the Holy Cross, off Chapel Road, or the pulled over in any given hour. trail leading west leads to a notable Airport Mesa to catch the sunset over Sedona. petroglyph site. • Choose from among 101 varieties of omlettes at the An ancient land To reach Honanki, continue on Coffee Pot Restaurant, Sedona. • Take in an art exhibit — there are over 80 galleries to Don’t miss a chance to sam- Forest Road 525 for 3.2 miles past choose from in Sedona. ple some local history; prehistoric its intersection with Forest Road • View the desert by hot air balloon or a scenic jeep tour. Indian ruins abound. You can take a 795. For more information, call the • Study ancient peoples through exhibits at Tuzigoot scheduled tour of local sites, or just Coconino National Forest/Red Rock National Monument, north of Cottonwood, or Montezuma Caste National Monument, north of Camp Verde. set out on your own. Hundreds of Ranger District at (928) 282-4119. • Try a mango mojito at Reds bar and restaurant in Sedona. prehistoric pueblos and granaries are To sample the ancient cul- • Cool off with a swim at Slide Rock State Park, north of tucked within the rocky folds around ture on a larger scale, try visit- Sedona. • Pack a picnic and take a hike at Red Rock, southwest of Sedona and nearby Verde Valley, ing Wupatki National Monument, Sedona, one of the most photographed places in Arizona. often visible from hiking trails. about an hour northeast of Sedona. • Shop ‘til you drop among 45 galleries, shops and restau- Many of the remains are attributed to About 30 miles to the south of rants in a Spanish colonial setting at Tlaquepaque Arts the “Sinagua” people, a broad term Sedona, you’ll also find some and Crafts Village, Sedona. • Drive through scenic Oak Creek Canyon, north of Sedona that means “without water.” 300 ancient dwellings at Walnut on Highway 89A. Look for hiking trailheads along the way. The Sinagua date back to around Canyon National Monument. • Peek into the past at Jerome, a former mining town ripe with A.D. 1150 and mystify academics Nearby Verde Valley hosts local history, northwest of Cottonwood off Highway 89A. to this day. After building intricate two national historic monuments: • Grab a reference guide and check out the area’s mystical “vortexes.” stone pueblo systems, the groups or Montezuma Castle and Tuzigoot. • Make reservations to visit in September to catch Sedona tribes simply seemed to disappear, Located just north of Camp Verde Jazz on the Rocks, featuring top jazz artists performing in adding to the sense of mystery. off I-17 is Montezuma Castle a red rock venue. (For information, call (928) 282-1985 or see www.sedonajazz.com.) Two small ruins can be reached National Monument which ranks near Sedona. Palatki and Honanki as one of the best preserved prehis- For more information on Red Rock Country, are managed by the National Forest toric cliff dwellings in the United check out: www.VisitSedona.com, www.sedona.net, States. Though the hillside pueblo www.sedonawebcam.com, www.experiencesedona.com. itself is not open to the public, trails run beneath it for panoramic views. Tuzigoot National Monument, the 1800s, when silver and copper it boasts great hiking trails and a remnant of a 110-room pueblo top- flowed from these desert mines, lovely, marshy lagoon — perfect for ping a high ridge overlooking the it was counted as the territory’s kayaking or wetting a fishing line. Verde River Valley, lies just a few fifth-largest city, and branded a Kevin and Jill Gallegos found miles north of Cottonwood off Alt. thoroughly “wicked” town, filled it a relaxing setting for simply sit- Route 89. with saloons, gambling parlors and ting in the sun with a good book. Easy trails allow you to wan- fast women. What remains is a Though home for the Aussie retir- der through rooms, and the on-site living museum and fledgling art- ees is Queensland, they found Visitor Center at this hilltop village ist’s colony. Check out the opulent Dead Horse Ranch a great home- (above) Kevin and Jill Gallegos, of is said to house one of the region’s Douglas mansion at the Jerome away-from-home in their 25-foot Queensland, Australia, enjoy the best collections of Sinagua arti- State Historic Park or get a flavor Fleetwood Jamboree rental. And simple pleasures of reading in the facts. Just a stone’s throw away is of the past at the Jerome Historical the quiet, affordable campsite was Arizona sunshine while camping at Dead Horse Ranch State Park, north the scene of more recent history, Society Mining Museum. very much to their liking. of Cottonwood. (top right) Uptown and a notable stop. While you’re visiting the Verde “We prefer the path less trav- Sedona bustles with restaurants, gift Today, the tiny community of Valley, make time to stop in at Dead eled,” said Kevin, with a smile. shops and a rich assortment of art Jerome looks like a ghostly vestige Horse Ranch State Park. Not only “And at the moment, we’re all can- galleries, which feature an array of of the former mining community is it one of the region’s only pub- yoned-out.” regional artists. [ that once thrived here. In the late lic campgrounds with RV hookups, 26 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6