From Craggy Sandstone Spires to Deeply Hued Buttes, Arizona's Red
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ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams A Land From craggy sandstone spires to deeply hued buttes, 20 Arizona’s Red Rock Country radiates natural beauty Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 ROUTE 66 Road Trip he first rays of sunlight told. “Fact is, you’ll be hard-pressed brush gingerly over to find a bad place to take a picture.” Red Rock Country, as if In many ways, it is a fierce nudging colors awake. land. The pebbled desert floor is TPigments emerge cautiously: populated by thorny, angry-look- deep violets gradually giving way ing vegetation. Prickly pear cactus to bands of burnt umber and cin- and cat claw acacia compete with namon, streaks of rusty iron and manzanita, juniper and larkspur. tawny buff. Within moments, the Summer heat can be oppressive rocky land surrounding Sedona — peak visitor’s season runs fall ignites with intense, eye-popping through spring. Signs everywhere hues, blushing with the slightest caution about rattlesnakes. In fact, shift of sunlight. gaze upon this vast, wrinkled topog- To a group of early-rising onlook- raphy and it’s hard to imagine this ers, perched atop a windy mesa land giving life to anything. And above the small northern Arizona yet, Red Rock Country seems to town, it was as if someone had flung pulse with its own eccentric energy, open the lid to an artist’s paintbox, awash in a thundering silence. the desert exposed in a palette of vibrant shades. Red Rock by RV All around, cameras click and The secret to visiting this natural hum like a herd of paparazzi. wonderland by trailer or motorhome Just north of Sedona, Oak Creek dashes across massive sandstone slabs at Slide “This was why we crawled up is to plan well in advance. There are Rock State Park — a popular swimming spot on hot days and a favorite destination here in the dark,” sighed Elaine plenty of camping options, from prim- for hiking and picnicking year-round. Burke, of Monmouth, N.J., tak- itive campsites with no hookups on or renting something in the area. Reserve two campsites, one for your ing pictures on her cell phone to public land to well-appointed private While plenty of parking lots accom- trailer, one for your truck. At $16 a send to her sister. “I just can’t stop RV parks. But be aware that many modate larger RVs, getting out into night, it’s still an affordable option. looking.” campgrounds — especially those the desert terrain to reach trailheads “It’s beautiful up here in the For newcomers, it’s hard not operated by the U.S. Forest Service could play havoc with a big rig. A fall — our favorite time,” Rebecca to gawk at Red Rock Country, a — impose a maximum RV length tow car would also make it easier observed. “The color in the leaves is geologic sculpture garden erupting at their campsites. Those limits vary to actually explore Sedona’s com- lovely, and while it still gets warm with rock formations gnawed by dramatically, from 22 feet at Beaver mercial district. during the day, the nights cool down time, pine-carpeted plauteaus, rain- Creek to 40 feet at Chavez Crossing. Research will pay off. More than fast.” Even getting to Red Rock bow-colored canyons, and soothing And some sites stay open 4 million people visit Red Rock Country can be fun. If approach- oak-lined creeks. Tucked within the year-round, while others don’t. country every year, and for good ing from the south, you’ll want to sprawling embrace of the Coconino Also, U.S. Forest Service camp- reason. It’s a unique, technicolor follow I-17 to State Highway 179, National Forest, it is a land unto itself grounds are generally operated on playground, as well suited to those which winds north through Red — there is nothing quite like it. a “first come, first serve” basis; seeking solitude and spiritual clarity Rock State Park and the Village of And there is much to offer here: there are a few sites that will take as it is for families with a trailer-full Oak Creek into the heart of Sedona. a hundred miles of trails for hik- reservations for some of their camp- of fidgety children to entertain. (Note: When we visited in mid- ers and mountain bikers; a thriving sites; very few provide hookups. If At Pineflat Campground, north November, heavy road construction artistic community; camping and you find that public campgrounds of Sedona off State Highway 89A, along State Highway 179 added fishing; spa treatments; spiritual are full, check out the town of Mark and Rebecca Lenz praised about 30 minutes onto the trip — experiences; and a magnificent can- Cottonwood, 20 miles southwest the surrounding hiking trails as a which wasn’t entirely awful, given vas to capture on camera. of Sedona on State Route 89A, or great diversion for young campers. the terrific scenery.) For shutterbugs, it just doesn’t Flagstaff, 30 miles north on State The Phoenix-based couple say they At your earliest opportunity get any better. Drop into a local Route 89A. try to make it to the campground at — and there will be many along the Visitor’s Center and ask about a Take it all into account when least once a year with their 25-foot way — pull over and invest in a Red great place to take pictures. Chances contemplating a trip here. And if Dutchmen trailer, sometimes meet- Rock Pass, available at any Forest are you’ll be greeted with a broad, you are driving a large motorhome, ing up with friends and family. Service Gateway Visitor Center, at knowing smile. you might want to seriously con- To work with RV length limits at Red Rock Ranger District and even “Just about anywhere,” we were template bringing along a tow car, the campground, they offer this tip: local Circle K stores. Sedona essen- From dramatic rock formations to quiet campgrounds, from exploring remnants of ancient civilization to hiking and mountain biking a labyrinth of desert trails, Arizona’s Red Rock Country is more than just a pretty face; recreational opportunities abound here. 21 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 (far left) Mighty Cathedral Rock is one of the most photographed rock formations in Arizona’s Red Rock Country. (top middle) Sitting high atop the rocks, the Chapel of the Holy Cross mixes man-made achievement with nature’s own architecture. (upper right) Hikers love to follow the scenic pathways along Oak Creek at Red Rock Crossing and Crescent Moon Ranch. (near left) Hiking doesn’t always mean desert treks; Red Rock Country offers its share of woodsy walks. (middle left) Mark and Rebecca Lenz, of Phoenix, enjoy coming to Pineflat Campground, north of Sedona, magnificent canvas at least once a year. tially sits in the center of Coconino A feast for the feet find Seven Sacred Pools, a string Hikers and bikers should observe National Forest. If you pull off the You’ll know you’re nearing Red of rain-water-fed pools planted in a basic trail courtesy. Also, always highway anywhere along the way, Rock Country when the landscape sandstone ledge. plan to carry more water than you including trailheads, you are expect- seems to open, revealing spicy-hued Wander past ancient pueblo ruins think you’ll need and rehydrate ed to display the pass — a relative rock formations, as vivid as a gap- on the Boynton Canyon Trail. Hikers often. At this elevation, hats and bargain at $5 a day, $15 for seven ing wound. Suddenly, the rolling can follow well-cut trails maintained sunscreen are a must, no matter consecutive days, or $20 for an desert landscape turns vertical and by the National Forest Service or the time of year. Because desert annual pass. even a little mystical. make their own way with the help of temperatures can plunge to chilly The exception? If you pull over Like the exposed spires and pin- private guidebooks. Trails can also depths at night, it’s also a good idea for 15 minutes or less to take a pic- nacles — a lovely product of the lead you deep into two designated to bring extra clothing. On extended ture or study the scenery. It’s worth eroding power of wind, water and wilderness areas, Red Rock-Secret or back-counry hikes, carry a com- noting that Golden Age Passport ice — this is a land filled with lay- Mountain to the north and Munds pass, flashlight, snack and water- holders — and their passengers ers of intrigue. The only question? Mountain to the south. proof matches just to be safe. — are permitted in lieu of the Red Where to start. It’s worth stopping Expect to see mountain bik- Rock Pass. The pass, however, is by one of the many visitor’s kiosks ers. Though select hiking trails are Photos at every turn not inclusive. Be expected to pay for maps and expert advice on how off-limits, Red Rock Country is a The same scenery that appeals to visitor’s fees when stopping in to proceed. Mecca to mountain bikers. Over a hikers and bikers will make photo nearby state parks, campgrounds Hiking is a great way to take an gigantic omelette at the Coffee Pot buffs positively drool. The drama and day use areas. initial survey of the landscape, and Restaurant one morning, a moun- of geologic architecture everywhere The region is bursting with things you’ll find trails for every level of tain bike enthusiast from San Diego you look invites shutterbugs to play to see and do, so give yourself a few fitness; the sheer variety of scen- explained it this way: “It’s not just here, with great access to it all.