05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 4 1 The Best of Arizona Planning a trip to a state as large and diverse as Arizona involves a lot of decision making (other than which golf clubs to take), so in this chapter I’ve tried to give you some direction. Below, I’ve chosen what I feel is the very best the state has to offer— the places and experiences you won’t want to miss. Although sights and activities listed here are written up in more detail elsewhere in this book, this chapter should help you plan your trip. 1 The Best Places to Commune with Cactus • Desert Botanical Garden (Phoenix): scorpions, black widows, and Gila There’s no better place in the state to monsters). See p. 359. learn about the plants of Arizona’s • Saguaro National Park (Tucson): Sonoran Desert and the many other Lying both east and west of Tucson, deserts of the world. Displays at this this park preserves “forests” of Phoenix botanical garden explain saguaro cacti and is the very essence plant adaptations and how indige- of the desert that so many imagine it nous tribes once used many of this to be. You can hike it, bike it, or drive region’s wild plants. See p. 121. it. See p. 364. • Boyce Thompson Arboretum (east • Tohono Chul Park (Tucson): of Phoenix): Just outside the town of Although this park is not that large, it Superior, this was the nation’s first packs a lot of desert scenery into its botanical garden established in a modest space. Impressive plantings of desert environment. It’s set in a small cacti are the star attractions, but there canyon framed by cliffs and has are also good wildflower displays in desert plantings from all over the the spring. See p. 371. world—a fascinating educational • Organ Pipe Cactus National Mon- stroll in the desert. See p. 163. ument (west of Tucson): The organ • Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum pipe cactus is a smaller, multitrunked (Tucson): The name is misleading— relative of the giant saguaro and lives this is actually more a zoo and botani- only along the Mexican border about cal garden COPYRIGHTEDthan a museum. Naturalistic 100 MATERIALmiles west of Tucson. This settings house dozens of species of remote national monument has hik- desert animals, including a number of ing trails and a couple of scenic critters you wouldn’t want to meet drives. See section 1 in chapter 11. in the wild (rattlesnakes, tarantulas, 2 The Best Active Vacations • Rafting the Grand Canyon: weeks, nothing comes even remotely Whether you go for 3 days or 2 close to matching the excitement of a 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 5 THE BEST DAY HIKES & NATURE WALKS 5 rafting trip through the Grand much golf or tennis as your shoulders Canyon. Sure, the river is crowded can handle? The Phoenix/Scottsdale with groups in the summer, but the area has one of the nation’s greatest grandeur of the canyon is more than concentrations of resorts, and Sedona enough to make up for it. See p. 232. and Tucson add many more options to • Hiking into the Grand Canyon or the mix. There’s something very satis- Havasu Canyon: Not for the unfit or fying about swinging a racket or club the faint of heart, a hike down into the with the state’s spectacular scenery in Grand Canyon or Havasu Canyon is a the background, and the climate journey through millions of years set means you can do it practically year- in stone. This trip takes plenty of round. See chapters 5, 6, and 10. advance planning and requires some • Mountain Biking in Sedona: Forget very strenuous hiking. With both a Moab—too many other hard-core campground and a lodge at the bot- mountain bikers. Among the red rocks tom of each canyon, you can choose to of Sedona, you can escape the crowds make this trip with either a fully and pedal through awesome scenery loaded backpack or just a light day- on some of the most memorable sin- pack. See p. 227 and 260. gle-track trails in the Southwest. • Riding the Range at a Guest There’s even plenty of slickrock for that Ranch: Yes, there are still cowboys in Canyonlands experience. See p. 198. Arizona. They ride ranges all over the • Bird-Watching in Southeastern Ari- state, and so can you if you book a zona: As an avid bird-watcher, I know stay at one of the many guest ranches that this isn’t the most active of sports, (once known as dude ranches). You but a birder can get in a bit of walking might even get to drive some cattle when it’s necessary (like, to get to the down the trail. After a long (or short) nesting tree of an elegant trogon). The day in the saddle, you can soak in a southeast corner of the state is one of hot tub, go for a swim, or play a game the best birding regions in the entire of tennis before chowing down. See country. See section 6, “The Best chapters 6, 9, 10, and 11. Bird-Watching Spots,” in this chapter • Staying at a Golf or Tennis Resort: If and the map on p. 14 of the color sec- horseback riding and cowboy cook- tion at the front of this guide. outs aren’t your thing, how about as 3 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks • Camelback Mountain (Phoenix): rugged Superstition Mountains will For many Phoenicians, the trail to the lead you to one of the most astonish- top of Camelback Mountain is a rit- ing views in the state. Hike the trail ual, a Phoenix institution. Sure, there on a weekday to avoid the crowds. are those who make this a casual but See p. 141. strenuous hike, but many more turn • Picacho Peak State Park (south of it into a serious workout by jogging Casa Grande): The hike up this cen- to the top and back down. I prefer a tral Arizona landmark is short but more leisurely approach so I can strenuous, and from the top there are enjoy the views. See p. 140. superb views out over the desert. The • Peralta Trail (east of Phoenix in the best time of year to make the hike is Superstition Mountains): This mod- in spring, when the peak comes alive erately difficult trail through the with wildflowers. Picacho Peak is 05_287767-ch01.qxp 9/18/08 3:59 PM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARIZONA between Casa Grande and Tucson the most photographed rock forma- just off I-10. See p. 164. tions in the West. Don’t miss this • Bell Rock/Courthouse Butte Loop hike. See p. 298. Trail (Sedona): There simply is no • Betatakin (Navajo National Monu- better introduction to Sedona’s myr- ment): Betatakin is one of the most iad red-rock hiking opportunities impressive cliff dwellings in the South- than this easy 4-mile loop hike. The west, and while most people just mar- trail begins right on Arizona 179 in vel at it from a distance, it’s possible to the Village of Oak Creek, which is a take a ranger-led 5-mile hike to the few miles south of Sedona. Views, ruins. After hiking through remote views, views! See p. 190. Tsegi Canyon, you’ll have a better • The South Kaibab Trail (Grand understanding of the Ancestral Canyon South Rim): Forget the pop- Puebloan people who once lived here. ular Bright Angel Trail, which, near See p. 295. its start, is a human highway. The • Antelope Canyon (Page): More a South Kaibab Trail offers better views slow walk of reverence than a hike, to day hikers and is the preferred this short trail lets you see the amaz- downhill route for anyone heading to ing beauty that can result when water Phantom Ranch for the night. This is and rock battle each other in the a strenuous hike even if you go only a Southwest. The trail leads through a mile or so down the trail. Remember, picture-perfect sandstone slot canyon, the trip back is all uphill. See p. 228. which is only a few feet wide in some • The White House Ruins Trail places. See p. 303. (Canyon de Chelly National Monu- • The Seven Falls Trail (Tucson): ment): There’s only one Canyon de There is something irresistible about Chelly hike that the general public waterfalls in the desert, and on this can take without a Navajo guide, and trail you get more than enough falls that’s the 2.5-mile trail to White to satisfy any craving to cool off on a House Ruins, a small site once inhab- hot desert day. The Seven Falls Trail is ited by Ancestral Puebloans (formerly in the Sabino Canyon Recreation called Anasazi). The trail leads from Area in northeast Tucson. See p. 379. the canyon rim across bare sandstone, • The Heart of Rocks Trail (Cochise through a tunnel, and down to the County): While the national parks floor of the canyon. See p. 291. and monuments in northern Arizona • The Wildcat Trail (Monument Val- get all the publicity, Chiricahua ley Navajo Tribal Park): As at Canyon National Monument, down in the de Chelly, there’s only one trail at southeast corner of the state, quietly Monument Valley that you can hike lays claim to some of the most spec- without a guide. This easy 3.2-mile tacular scenery in Arizona.