Perekhoda O. Institute of Practical Culture Studies and Art Management of National Academy of Culture and Arts Management

STATE OF RESEARCH AND STUDY OF THE TRADITIONAL FOLK BORSHCHIV EMBROIDERY IN DOMESTIC HISTORIOGRAPHY UDC 746.34 (477.84-22Борщів):930.2](045)

Perekhoda O. State of research and study of the traditional folk ученых XIX века и заканчивая публикациями и изданиями Borshchiv embroidery in domestic historiography. The present последних лет. publication is a part of a research work carried out as a thesis Установлено, что борщевская вышивка детально исследована writing for the graduate work at the Department of Examination с точки зрения техники шитья, материалов и орнаментов, of Art of the Institute of Practical Culture Studies and Art Manage- которые выделяют ее среди множества других. В то же время, ment of the National Academy of Culture and Arts Management. этот феномен украинского народного декоративно-приклад- The article analyses the state of study and research of traditional ного искусства недостаточно осмыслен с использованием folk embroidery of Borshchiv region of Ternopil Oblast in the теоретических основ искусствоведения, в частности эстетики. Ukrainian national historiography. The main content of the work Ключевые слова: народная культура, декоративное искус- is revealed in the analysis of scienti c sources devoted to the ство, украинская вышивка, борщевская вышивка, рубашка, research of the features of Borschiv vyshyvanka, the works of вышиванка, этнография. ethnographers, folklorists, scholars of art. The characteristic of historiographical material is presented beginning with the early fundamental works of the authors of the XIX century and end- ing with the coverage of publications and works of recent years. Statement of the problem. Scientific and It was found that Borshchiv vyshyvanka has been researched in cognitive interest in traditional Ukrainian clothes details in terms of sewing technique, materials, ornaments and and techniques of its decoration began to revive colours which distinguish Borshchiv vyshyvanka among others. at the time of formation of independent Ukrainian However, this phenomenon of Ukrainian folk arts and crafts has been insuf ciently conceived using theoretical principles of art state, initial democratization and liberalization of history (such as aesthetics). society, elimination of censorship and ideological Keywords: folk culture, decorative art, Ukrainian vyshyvanka, barriers to exploration of Ukrainian history, customs Borshchiv vyshyvanka, embroidered shirt, vyshyvanka, ethnog- raphy. and traditions. Перехода О. В. Стан вивчення та дослідження традиційної The events of recent years in Ukraine, namely борщівської вишивки у вітчизняній історіографії. Дана пу- the Revolution of Dignity as well as social upheaval блікація є частиною наукового дослідження, що здійснюється в межах підготовки до написання дипломної роботи на базі caused by it, led to the rise of patriotic spirit and na- кафедри мистецтвознавчої експертизи Інституту практичної tional consciousness, actualized the use of Ukrainian культурології та арт-менеджменту Національної академії symbols in various forms of interpersonal communi- керівних кадрів культури і мистецтв. Стаття присвячена аналізу стану вивчення та дослідження cation, formed the need to use national symbols and традиційної народної вишивки Борщівського району Тер- elements in general and Ukrainian national clothes нопільської області у вітчизняній історіографії. Основний in particular. The embroidered shirt has become зміст роботи полягає в аналізі виявлених наукових джерел, які присвячені дослідженню особливостей борщівської ви- very popular as a visual means of expression and шивки, проаналізовано праці етнографів, фольклористів, national pride. народознавців, мистецтвознавців. Подається характеристика In view of this, the art of embroidery arose a історіографічного матеріалу починаючи з найперших ґрун- certain research interest. Study of certain aspects of товних праць авторів XIX ст. та завершуючи висвітленням публікацій та видань останніх років. art and stylistic principles of embroidery is based on Установлено, що борщівська вишивка досить детально до- the analysis of sources and historiography. сліджена з точки зору техніки шиття, матеріалів, орнаментів Folk costumes of Borshchiv region stands out та кольорів, котрі вирізняють борщівську вишивку з-поміж інших. Водночас цей феномен українського народного деко- among the variety of national costumes in Ukraine ративно-прикладного мистецтва недостатньо осмислений із for its extraordinary originality. Because of its ex- застосуванням теоретичних засад мистецтвознавства, зокрема clusivity Borshchiv embroidery is a de nite treasury естетики. Ключові слова: народна культура, декоративне мистецтво, of the material culture of Ukrainians and can be the українська вишивка, борщівська вишивка, сорочка, виши- subject of a separate study. ванка, етнографія. Main objectives. The primary object of the Перехода О. В. Состояние изучения и исследования тра- диционной борщевской вышивки в отечественной исто- article is exposing the analysis of study and research риографии. Данная публикация является частью научного of Borshchiv folk embroidery in the national histo- исследования, которое осуществляется в рамках подготовки riography. к написанию дипломной работы на базе кафедры искусство- ведческой экспертизы Института практической культурологии Nowadays Borshchiv embroidery is the brand и арт-менеджмента Национальной академии руководящих of the southern part of the Ternopil Oblast and is кадров культуры и искусств. famous worldwide for its peculiarity. The black Статья посвящена анализу состояния изучения и исследова- embroidered shirt (Borshchiv vyshyvanka) is truly ния традиционной народной вышивки Борщевского района Тернопольской области в отечественной историографии. unique in its ornament and embroidery technique. Главное внимание обращено на выявление научных источни- Thousands of legends and folk tales are being told ков, посвященных исследованию особенностей борщевской about it. There were speci c tragic historical events вышивки, проанализированы работы этнографов, фолькло- ристов и искусствоведов. Представлена характеристика ис- in the XV – XVII centuries relating to the origin of ториографического материала начиная с самых первых работ black vyshyvanka. Borshchiv land was constantly un-

96 © Perekhoda O., 2017 der attacks of Turkish and Tatar armies. The enemies of folk clothes “Folk costume of Western Regions ruthlessly devastated and looted villages, capturing of the Ukrainian SSR” (1959) by O. Kulchytska. It local peasants. In one of these attacks all the men in demonstrates clothes, hats and embroidery of Ter- several villages along the Dnister River were killed. nopil Oblast. In addition,  rst art scholarly explora- After that the village girls and women vowed to grief tions are recognized in: “Decorative fabrics” (1949) and mourn their men for several generations. With by S. Koloss, “Arts and Crafts of Ukrainian SSR” such expressions of sorrow, they began to embroider (1952), “Decorative embroidery. Ukrainian Folk their shirts with black thread [1]. Art” (1960), “Weaving and Embroidery” (1966) by Interest about Ukrainian ornament and folk N. Manucharova [23]. embroidery began to grow in the late XIX – early Also in the second half of the XX century works XX centuries. Since 1870 formation of systematic “Folk tissues ornament of Western Ukraine late collections of patterns and embroidery has begun, XIX – early XX centuries” (1959) by S. Sydorovych as well as  rst studies devoted to ornaments and and “Western Ukraine Folk Art” (1966) by I. Gurgula its speci c characteristics have appeared. Among were published. Certain information concerning the them such works as “Russian folk ornament. Vol. 1. West Podillya decorative art can be found in these Needlework, fabrics, laces” (1872) by V. Stasov and works, in particular, local and distinguishing features “Distinctive features of South Russian folk orna- of folk works of art are considered [8; 21]. ment” (1876) by F. Vovk [22]. Art scholarly works of this period made a sub- One of the  rst fundamental works published in stantial contribution for further explorations. They 1876 was “Ukrainian folk ornament” by Olena Pchil- focused on the features of folk ornaments of small ka (Olha Kosach). The author stated that Ukrainian geographic regions, while research area of previous ornament, especially pattern of embroidery, are of years’ publications covered signi cant geographic great interest in research, because it keeps a code boundaries of entire Ukraine. The researchers studied with diverse information from the distant past of art features, considered products typology, artistic Ukrainians [10]. expression of individual artists or focused their at- First attempts to represent regional features of tention on speci c folk art localization centres. decorative embroidery were made in 1927 – 1929. In the monograph “Ukrainian Folk embroidery Embroidery, as an object of study of ethnography, of Western regions of URSR” (1988) by R. Zakhar- described in the works “The History of Ukrainian chuk-Chuhai, the embroidery is  rst shown as an ornament” (1927) by H. Pavlutskyi, “Folk Art of art phenomenon and one of the types of folk art in Ukrainians of Podillya” (1928) by A. Zerembskyi historical perspective. Analysis the art of embroidery and “Sewing of Ukraine” (1929) by Ya. Ryzhenko. in all varieties, its social signi cance and place in the This authors paid much attention to research of the Ukrainian art traditions. Different types of artistic placement of embroidered ornament on women’s and features of embroidery, techniques, content classi - men’s shirts; decorated patterned fabrics and carpets; cations, compositional schemes, ornamental motifs professional and folk embroidery in Ukraine. The and forms are researched [6]. The monograph “Folk publications, indicated above, initiated research and embroidery of Western Ukraine XIX – XX centuries” studies of Ukrainian folk embroidery as an artistic (1995) by R. Zakharchuk-Chuhai should also be phenomenon [12; 16; 25]. noted. This work includes information of regional Later, especially in the post-war years, there and local stylistic technique distinctions, colour were quite a few publications on embroidery. Con- palettes and ornament differences of embroidery of tents of those publications complement each other, Ukrainian Podillya [9]. expanding knowledge of the history of embroidery The album “Folk embroidering” (1982) by and covering the life and work of prominent artists. E. Hasiuk and M. Stepan displays a brief historical One of the most important sources of research overview of embroidery art of Ukraine, reveals the of the folk art of Ternopil Oblast is the work “Folk national ornament motives, describes embroidery Art of Ternopil Oblast of Ukrainian SSR” (1957) techniques with typical examples and samples [7]. by R. Herasymchuk, which conducted a compre- In the late XX – early XXI centuries a num- hensive study of all kinds of the folk art, including ber of active scientific explorations took place. embroidery [6]. Art scholars T. Kara-Vasylyeva, H. Stelmashchuk, There were attempts to create manuals for O. Nykorak and ethnographer L. Bulhakov-Sytnyk novice embroiderers. One of the most notable among are considered as proven experts in Ukrainian folk such works is a book “Ukrainian Folk Art embroi- costumes and embroidery. dery” (1958) by O. Kulyk, which highlights among Scienti c works by T. Kara-Vasylyeva differ albums and other publications of the time, because greatly because of its rich historical and factual it contains a detailed description of the most popular material. The author approaches the subject of Bor- Ukrainian embroidery techniques [7]. shchiv embroidery by exploring the typology and Over the same period, there are first solid the history of Ukrainian embroidery in the context research about speci c types and centres of folk of nationwide folk art. More than twenty albums embroidery. Among the ethnographic works of this and monographs devoted to Ukrainian embroidery period especially indicative is a series of drawings were published (1983 – 2008). Among the works

97 Харків 2017 adjacent to our subject are the “Wonderland Crea- collected pictures of women’s festive shirts of late tors”, “Modern Ukrainian embroidery”, “Ukrainian XIX – early XX centuries from two creative embroi- shirt”, “Ukrainian Folk embroidery” (co-authored dery centres of Podillya and Transnistria – Borshchiv with A. Zavolokina), “Ukrainian embroidery” (co- region of Ternopil Oblast and Zastavna region of authored with A. Chernomorets), “The History of Chernivtsi Oblast [2; 3; 4]. Ukrainian embroidery” and others. These works The historical collection “Chronicle of Borsh- focus on the features of the original embroidery, its chiv region” issued by the Ethnographic museum of local characteristics of historical and ethnographic Borshchiv is singled out among the media publica- regions, describes basic embroidery techniques, tions that constantly highlight issues of ethnography, comprehensively covers the main stages of de- folklore and the folk art. There were periodically velopment of Ukrainian embroidery, reveals its published materials of the subject, such as “Selected involvement in design of national costumes. The aspects of the study of women’s shirts of Borshchiv unique embroidery examples are well represented region” by L. Bulgakova, “Artistic features of men’s as well [23]. shirts of Borshchiv region in late XIX – early XX The scienti c importance of H. Stelmashchuk centuries” by I. Gareth, “Embroidered women’s shirt research is also valid. In such works, as “The old from ethnographic collection of the Ethnographic clothes of Volyn” (2003), “Ukrainian costume” museum of Borshchiv” by N. Nickolyn and others (2011) and “Ukrainian Folk costumes” (2013), based [17; 18; 19]. on the extensive source and factual material, the The importance of analysis and interpretations author describes ways of formation and existence of folk art, including Borschiv embroidery, in the of Ukrainian traditional dresses from ancient times view of journalism is also should be noted. History till the XX century, considers the out t of all eth- of formation, uniqueness and originality of Borschiv nographic regions and its relation with spiritual life embroidery is analysed by T. Dovhoshyya in publi- of the people, is the  rst to provide a brief descrip- cations “Borshchiv vyshyvanka. The past and the tion of Ukrainian elite, middle class and workers’ present” (2010), “Borshchiv black embroidery, as out ts [20]. a phenomenon of Ukrainian culture” (2011), “Our The imagery of embroidery systems, ornamen- talisman – Borshchiv black embroidery” (2013). tal structure and symbols, variety of designs and Research on folk art of Ternopil Oblast, including themes of Podillya region towels were explored in embroidery, were, as well, carried out by folk artists, the work “Embroidery of Eastern Podillya” (2009) museum workers, writers, scholars of art [5; 23]. by Ye. Prychepiy and T. Prychepiy [15]. One of the most famous and interesting The experience of the Podillya region embroi- publications is a book “Borshchiv Folk shirt. Fab- dery in the context of genetic relationship between rics. Cutting. Sewing technique. Collection of the material and embroidery technique, cutting style and Ethnographic museum of Borshchiv” (2012) by embroidery topography, speci c motifs and stylistic L. Pokusinska and O. Pokusinskyi. This rare publica- features of ornamentation was for the  rst time ex- tion contains truly invaluable materials on types of plored in the monograph “Podillya Folk embroidery” cutting, sewing techniques and traditional embroi- (2005) by L. Bulhakova-Sytnyk. Types of Podillya dery patterns of Borshchiv vyshyvanka. The book embroidery were determined; speci c features and is based on shirts (dating from late XIX – early XX common national traits of Podillya embroidery were centuries) from the collection of the Ethnographic described in the context of traditional Ukrainian museum of Borshchiv. The work describes produc- embroidery. Additionally, the researcher  rst de ned tion stages of Borschiv shirt in details: schemes and the classi cation of men’s and women’s embroidered illustrations made by authors, exactly reproduce the shirts, their cutting style, the design of the shoulder techniques and method of embroidery, reveal each line, neckline and bottom of sleeves, as well as pat- embroidered pattern of every vyshyvanka presented terns deployment on shirts. in the book [13]. Illustrated edition of “Borshchiv’s shirt collec- Conclusions. This historiographical review tion of Vira Matkovska” (2010) by L. Bulhakova- of the published sources on the subject leads to Sytnyk, M. Urbanskyy, I. Shkloda, contains samples the conclusion that the majority of the research on of ancient wedding and festive embroidered shirts, Ukrainian embroidery were carried out in the last which are real gems of Ukrainian traditional costume. quarter of XX century – beginning of XXI century. The collection also contains the  rst silk embroidered There was a signi cant amount of complex and works, ancient monastery sewing techniques and systematic studies of Ukrainian national costume other, previously unknown, samples of Borshchiv and its artistic embroidered decoration, as well as vyshyvanka. The publication presented three gen- a number of fundamental scienti c and scholarly erations of embroidery – the ancient, modern and research that indirectly affected by the subject were Borshchiv vyshyvanka. The album “Woman’s shirt published over this period. Considering complexity of Borshchiv-Zastavna region of Transnistria” (2013) of tasks and range of geographical area that were by L. Bulhakova-Sytnyk was created to promote covered by scientists, very little attention was paid the high-level art works, which before can only be to the issue of folk embroidery of Borshchiv region. seen in museums and private collections. It contains Basically, with a few exceptions, it was considered in

98 a broad comparative perspective among other regions Ethnographic museum of Borshchiv]. Kyiv : Novyy druk, of Ternopil oblast or of Ukraine. 2012. [In Ukrainian]. 14. Prychepiy, Ye. M., Prychepiy, T. I. (2007). Vyshyvka skhid- Today it can be con dently said, that Borshchiv noho Podillya [Embroidery of Eastern Podillya] : Album. is one of the important centres of traditional archaic (L. P. Lykhach, project manager]. Kyiv : Rodovid. [In embroidery in Ukraine, therefore further studies of Ukrainian]. embroidery in this region are timely and essential. 15. Prychepiy, Ye., Prychepiy, T. (2009). Vyshyvka skhidnoho Podillya [Embroidery of Eastern Podillya]. (Small series References: of Ukrainian embroidery). Kyiv : Rodovid ; Oranta. [In Ukrainian]. 1. Borshchivs’ka vyshyvka [Borshchiv embroidery]. Pro 16. Ryzhenko, Ya. (1929). Ukrayins’ke shytvo [Sewing of Ukraine]. Ukrayinu : skarbnytsya ukrayins’koho narodu — About Poltava : 1-sha Raddruk. [In Ukrainian]. 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Pokusins’ka, L., Pokusins’kyy, O. Borshchivs’ka narodna мистецтвознавчої експертизи, Національна sorochka : Materialy. Kriy. Tekhniky shytva. Kolektsiya академія керівних кадрів культури і мистецтв Borshchivs’koho krayeznavchoho muzeyu [Borshchiv Folk shirt : Fabrics. Cutting. Sewing technique. Collection of the Стаття надійшла до редакції 08.04.2017

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