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Perekhoda O. Institute of Practical Culture Studies and Art Management of National Academy of Culture and Arts Management

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Perekhoda O. Institute of Practical Culture Studies and Art Management of National Academy of Culture and Arts Management Perekhoda O. Institute of Practical Culture Studies and Art Management of National Academy of Culture and Arts Management STATE OF RESEARCH AND STUDY OF THE TRADITIONAL FOLK BORSHCHIV EMBROIDERY IN DOMESTIC HISTORIOGRAPHY UDC 746.34 (477.84-22Борщів):930.2](045) Perekhoda O. State of research and study of the traditional folk ученых XIX века и заканчивая публикациями и изданиями Borshchiv embroidery in domestic historiography. The present последних лет. publication is a part of a research work carried out as a thesis Установлено, что борщевская вышивка детально исследована writing for the graduate work at the Department of Examination с точки зрения техники шитья, материалов и орнаментов, of Art of the Institute of Practical Culture Studies and Art Manage- которые выделяют ее среди множества других. В то же время, ment of the National Academy of Culture and Arts Management. этот феномен украинского народного декоративно-приклад- The article analyses the state of study and research of traditional ного искусства недостаточно осмыслен с использованием folk embroidery of Borshchiv region of Ternopil Oblast in the теоретических основ искусствоведения, в частности эстетики. Ukrainian national historiography. The main content of the work Ключевые слова: народная культура, декоративное искус- is revealed in the analysis of scienti c sources devoted to the ство, украинская вышивка, борщевская вышивка, рубашка, research of the features of Borschiv vyshyvanka, the works of вышиванка, этнография. ethnographers, folklorists, scholars of art. The characteristic of historiographical material is presented beginning with the early fundamental works of the authors of the XIX century and end- ing with the coverage of publications and works of recent years. Statement of the problem. Scientific and It was found that Borshchiv vyshyvanka has been researched in cognitive interest in traditional Ukrainian clothes details in terms of sewing technique, materials, ornaments and and techniques of its decoration began to revive colours which distinguish Borshchiv vyshyvanka among others. at the time of formation of independent Ukrainian However, this phenomenon of Ukrainian folk arts and crafts has been insuf ciently conceived using theoretical principles of art state, initial democratization and liberalization of history (such as aesthetics). society, elimination of censorship and ideological Keywords: folk culture, decorative art, Ukrainian vyshyvanka, barriers to exploration of Ukrainian history, customs Borshchiv vyshyvanka, embroidered shirt, vyshyvanka, ethnog- raphy. and traditions. Перехода О. В. Стан вивчення та дослідження традиційної The events of recent years in Ukraine, namely борщівської вишивки у вітчизняній історіографії. Дана пу- the Revolution of Dignity as well as social upheaval блікація є частиною наукового дослідження, що здійснюється в межах підготовки до написання дипломної роботи на базі caused by it, led to the rise of patriotic spirit and na- кафедри мистецтвознавчої експертизи Інституту практичної tional consciousness, actualized the use of Ukrainian культурології та арт-менеджменту Національної академії symbols in various forms of interpersonal communi- керівних кадрів культури і мистецтв. Стаття присвячена аналізу стану вивчення та дослідження cation, formed the need to use national symbols and традиційної народної вишивки Борщівського району Тер- elements in general and Ukrainian national clothes нопільської області у вітчизняній історіографії. Основний in particular. The embroidered shirt has become зміст роботи полягає в аналізі виявлених наукових джерел, які присвячені дослідженню особливостей борщівської ви- very popular as a visual means of expression and шивки, проаналізовано праці етнографів, фольклористів, national pride. народознавців, мистецтвознавців. Подається характеристика In view of this, the art of embroidery arose a історіографічного матеріалу починаючи з найперших ґрун- certain research interest. Study of certain aspects of товних праць авторів XIX ст. та завершуючи висвітленням публікацій та видань останніх років. art and stylistic principles of embroidery is based on Установлено, що борщівська вишивка досить детально до- the analysis of sources and historiography. сліджена з точки зору техніки шиття, матеріалів, орнаментів Folk costumes of Borshchiv region stands out та кольорів, котрі вирізняють борщівську вишивку з-поміж інших. Водночас цей феномен українського народного деко- among the variety of national costumes in Ukraine ративно-прикладного мистецтва недостатньо осмислений із for its extraordinary originality. Because of its ex- застосуванням теоретичних засад мистецтвознавства, зокрема clusivity Borshchiv embroidery is a de nite treasury естетики. Ключові слова: народна культура, декоративне мистецтво, of the material culture of Ukrainians and can be the українська вишивка, борщівська вишивка, сорочка, виши- subject of a separate study. ванка, етнографія. Main objectives. The primary object of the Перехода О. В. Состояние изучения и исследования тра- диционной борщевской вышивки в отечественной исто- article is exposing the analysis of study and research риографии. Данная публикация является частью научного of Borshchiv folk embroidery in the national histo- исследования, которое осуществляется в рамках подготовки riography. к написанию дипломной работы на базе кафедры искусство- ведческой экспертизы Института практической культурологии Nowadays Borshchiv embroidery is the brand и арт-менеджмента Национальной академии руководящих of the southern part of the Ternopil Oblast and is кадров культуры и искусств. famous worldwide for its peculiarity. The black Статья посвящена анализу состояния изучения и исследова- embroidered shirt (Borshchiv vyshyvanka) is truly ния традиционной народной вышивки Борщевского района Тернопольской области в отечественной историографии. unique in its ornament and embroidery technique. Главное внимание обращено на выявление научных источни- Thousands of legends and folk tales are being told ков, посвященных исследованию особенностей борщевской about it. There were speci c tragic historical events вышивки, проанализированы работы этнографов, фолькло- ристов и искусствоведов. Представлена характеристика ис- in the XV – XVII centuries relating to the origin of ториографического материала начиная с самых первых работ black vyshyvanka. Borshchiv land was constantly un- 96 © Perekhoda O., 2017 der attacks of Turkish and Tatar armies. The enemies of folk clothes “Folk costume of Western Regions ruthlessly devastated and looted villages, capturing of the Ukrainian SSR” (1959) by O. Kulchytska. It local peasants. In one of these attacks all the men in demonstrates clothes, hats and embroidery of Ter- several villages along the Dnister River were killed. nopil Oblast. In addition, rst art scholarly explora- After that the village girls and women vowed to grief tions are recognized in: “Decorative fabrics” (1949) and mourn their men for several generations. With by S. Koloss, “Arts and Crafts of Ukrainian SSR” such expressions of sorrow, they began to embroider (1952), “Decorative embroidery. Ukrainian Folk their shirts with black thread [1]. Art” (1960), “Weaving and Embroidery” (1966) by Interest about Ukrainian ornament and folk N. Manucharova [23]. embroidery began to grow in the late XIX – early Also in the second half of the XX century works XX centuries. Since 1870 formation of systematic “Folk tissues ornament of Western Ukraine late collections of patterns and embroidery has begun, XIX – early XX centuries” (1959) by S. Sydorovych as well as rst studies devoted to ornaments and and “Western Ukraine Folk Art” (1966) by I. Gurgula its speci c characteristics have appeared. Among were published. Certain information concerning the them such works as “Russian folk ornament. Vol. 1. West Podillya decorative art can be found in these Needlework, fabrics, laces” (1872) by V. Stasov and works, in particular, local and distinguishing features “Distinctive features of South Russian folk orna- of folk works of art are considered [8; 21]. ment” (1876) by F. Vovk [22]. Art scholarly works of this period made a sub- One of the rst fundamental works published in stantial contribution for further explorations. They 1876 was “Ukrainian folk ornament” by Olena Pchil- focused on the features of folk ornaments of small ka (Olha Kosach). The author stated that Ukrainian geographic regions, while research area of previous ornament, especially pattern of embroidery, are of years’ publications covered signi cant geographic great interest in research, because it keeps a code boundaries of entire Ukraine. The researchers studied with diverse information from the distant past of art features, considered products typology, artistic Ukrainians [10]. expression of individual artists or focused their at- First attempts to represent regional features of tention on speci c folk art localization centres. decorative embroidery were made in 1927 – 1929. In the monograph “Ukrainian Folk embroidery Embroidery, as an object of study of ethnography, of Western regions of URSR” (1988) by R. Zakhar- described in the works “The History of Ukrainian chuk-Chuhai, the embroidery is rst shown as an ornament” (1927) by H. Pavlutskyi, “Folk Art of art phenomenon and one of the types of folk art in Ukrainians of Podillya” (1928) by A. Zerembskyi historical perspective. Analysis the art of embroidery and “Sewing of Ukraine” (1929) by Ya. Ryzhenko. in all varieties, its social signi cance and place in the This authors
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