INSIDE: : Baroque Jewel 3 A Quick A Guide to Puglia’s Towns 4 Puglia Stay in a Trullo 6 Noteworthy Travels: Primer Puglia Edition 7 What You Need to Know • Puglia, the Italian name for this region, is usually referred to as in English, from the spelling. In Italian, something from this SPECIAL REPORT: PUGLIA region is called Pugliese, while in English, it might be called Apulian or Puglian. dream of • This long strip of land comprising the “heel” of has a unique landscape devoid of moun- tains and covered by plains and hills. Farms devoted to vineyards, olive trees and vegetables are separated by neatly constructed stone walls. The giant olive trees, several feet in diameter, twisted and towering, are startling. The area surrounding Alberobello is dotted with trulli. These small conical buildings, first built in the 13th century, are created out of limestone and ITALYVolume 3, Issue 6 www.dreamofitaly.com June 2004 unique to Puglia. Puglia’s sandy beaches are a big draw to this area; three-quarters of the region borders the sea. Puglia’s Bounty • Puglia’s strategic location made it a target for conquering and colonization by Byzantines, Awaits Lovers Saracens, Greeks, Romans, Normans, Swabians, Turks and Spaniards, among others. Their o you think you’ve eaten well are startling. These ancient giants must influences can be found throughout the region in Italy? Suspend all judgment be 50 times the size of the trees in from the Spanish Baroque architecture of Lecce until you’ve visited Puglia, with trunks several feet in and Martina Franca to the ornate cathedrals Swhere the Mediterranean sun diameter and radiating and twisted constructed by the Normans. Frederick II of waves its magic wand to produce a branches that can sometimes make Swabia (now part of Germany) played a major true bounty of magnificent, them resemble people, although role in Puglia, building Romanesque churches flavorful gifts. With agricul- scary ones at that. Puglia pro- and castles here in the 13th century. ture as its lifeline, Puglia pro- duces one-third of Italy’s olive duces a rainbow of vegetables. oil and as with most regions, • and Brindisi are the transportation hubs in The dominant producer of this “green gold” is the staple Puglia. Ryanair serves both cities from London. wheat, Puglia is the source of 80% of for almost every dish. The Volare has several budget flights to both cities Europe’s . Most of the fish locals also eat plenty of olives — from Milan, and Venice. Also check major Italians eat comes from here. Pugliese yellow, green and black, served salted carriers such as Alitalia. Rome and are cuisine takes advantage of all of these or in water or lime water. just a few hours away by train. The best way to fresh ingredients and combines them get around the region is by car so rent one in simple, yet mouth-watering ways. Veg out once you arrive. You can’t say you have truly eaten , until you’ve experi- Because vegetables are so abundant, • Like the rest of Southern Italy, Puglia can get enced the tastes of Puglia. they are the main ingredients for so extremely hot. That’s why most businesses, and many Pugliese dishes. Each part of almost all stores and museums, still close in the Green gold Puglia grows something special. afternoon. Avoid Puglia in August when it is There’s lettuce from Polignano, arti- hottest and Italian tourists take over the The gargantuan olive trees in Puglia continued on page 2 beaches. There are 50 million olive trees in Puglia. Puglia’s Bounty Awaits Food Lovers continued from page 1

chokes from Trinitapoli and Much to the dismay to A foodie town celery from Monte Americans, horsemeat is Sant’Angelo. very popular here. If you Altamura makes a wonderful stop for want to try it, order braciole anyone interested in Pugliese cuisine. Tons of eggplant and toma- di cavallo, horsemeat steaks The town has some unique , toes grow here, providing the cooked in tomato sauce. starting with the bread, pane di ingredients for wonderful Altamura. The durum wheat mixture is sun-dried tomatoes and With such an expansive allowed to rise three times and then melanzane alla campagnola coastline, Puglia offers an baked for over an hour in wood- (roasted eggplant drenched in array of fish and seafood, burning stoves at over 25 bakeries all olive oil and seasonings). Plenty of including cuttlefish, lobster, octopus, over town. The large loaves of chewy vegetables grow wild, such as fennel anchovies, eels, sea urchins, shellfish, bread can reportedly be kept for a and chicory. Lampascioni, local seasonal mussels, mullet, squid and tuna. Zuppe month before being consumed. onions served boiled or fried, can be di pesce, , is a popular dish found in the wild as well. allowing locals to combine their fresh This town is also home to cardoncelli, catches. Rice, a leftover from Spanish musky wild mushrooms. One popular Local chefs know hundreds of ways to domination, with mussels is also a way to serve the mushrooms is with prepare these vegetables in order to characteristic dish of this region; as is and sausages. maximize their flavors. Let them be tortiera, fresh anchovies made with your guides. One tip though, be sure to bread crumbs and Pecorino cheese. To finish off your culinary tour, how taste fava e cicoria, a puree of fava about a drink, a stiff drink. beans, topped with olive oil, chili pep- Puglia has excellent Look no further than pers and wild chicory. cheese. Most note- Altamura’s Padre Peppe Nocino 2 worthy is the burrata, a an herb and walnut liqueur, Good carbs fresh mozzarella with a aged for four years. The drink spongy and creamy is named in honor of a priestly With such an immense center. Also try the local ancestor of the Striccoli family production of durum wheat, it’s no ricotta (made with the milk of sheep, who have produced the drink since the wonder that Pugliesi have pasta with goats or cows) and cacioricotta, a kind early 19th century. Try it at Caffe Ronchi almost every meal. The local pasta is of sheep’s cheese. on Corso Federico II di Svevia. ◆ orecchiette, named for and shaped like little ears. Traditional chefs make it by rolling out pasta , tearing off PUGLIA: No Longer a Silent Wine Producer small pieces and making a thumb print ith warm weather, consistent day/night temperatures “black and bitter.” Most reds are a blend of these two and in each piece. The most popular way to and fertile soil, Puglia is one of Italy’s largest wine- others. serve it is with broccoli rabe or with W producing regions, if not the largest in any given year. cauliflower and grated ricotta cheese. One of these has earned quite a bit of buzz in Italy and So why haven’t you heard much about its wines? in the U.S. Salice Salentino, named for an area near For years, the bulk wine made here has blended with Lecce, is a powerful red made mostly with Negroamaro, Pugliese protein French or Italians vintages that needed additional structure. as well as Malvasia Nera di Brindisi and Malvasia It was also shipped to Turin to be used in making Nero di Lecce. The influence of Puglia’s former rulers Vermouth. is evident in the region’s food. Like the One powerful sign that Puglia has become a serious But now, local winemakers are concentrating on producing Greeks, Pugliesi eat plenty of lamb, winemaking region is the arrival of the Antinori family, high quality wines by reducing yields, incorporating modern usually roasted on a spit-fire with the Tuscan winemakers who have been practicing their technology and picking the grapes at the perfect moment. plenty of herbs. They even have a form craft for 26 generations. At their new estate Tormaresca, It seems to be working as Puglia now produces 25 DOC of haggis; gnummerieddi is made by the family is harvesting two ancient red grapes, wines. Puglia reds have been the most popular and are stuffing a lamb gut with herbs and Negroamaro and Aglianico. California-based Kendall-Jackson frequently compared to California wines due to similar cli- garlic and grilling it over an open fire. has also invested in the area. mate and winemaking techniques. The main red grape is There’s little beef or pork consumed in Primitvo, the parent of California Zinfandel. The other There’s much to say about Pugliese wines and we will be Puglia. popular red grape is Negroamaro, local dialect for writing about them again soon. Puglia produces more grapes and m LECCE: Puglia’s Crown Jewel

alled “the Florence of the fashion. The architecture of the entire Claudio Riso (Corso Vittorio South” and “the Athens of city has a collective feeling of warmth Emmanuele, 27). C Puglia,” Lecce, a small city of and elegance. 100,000 near the very bottom of Italy’s For a reasonably priced heel, reigns as one of the most beauti- The city’s main square Piazza meal of regional specialties, ful cities in southern Italy, if not the Sant’Oronzio is go to Picton (Via Idomeneo, entire country. Its remote location has home to an 14; 39 0832 332-383). kept it a secret for much too long, but ancient Roman La Rusticana (Corso V.E., 31) a visit to Puglia can’t be complete amphitheater makes an excellent stop for without a tour of this university and uncovered dur- a quick lunch or cultural center. ing a building snack. Ask for pizzo, project in 1901. Near the delicious and Lecce is most famous for its golden the amphitheater is the spicy local bread Baroque architecture. In the 17th and beautiful Sedile, a made with pecans, 18th centuries, local nobles constructed masterpiece construct- olives and tomatoes. or renovated their elegant palazzi and ed in 1596 to serve as a churches in the baroque fashion. They town hall. There’s also Lecce’s location makes it especially used pietra di Lecce, a golden sandstone the church of Santa hot during the summer, so try to visit which is easy to carve in an intricate Maria della Grazie, one of the only other in the spring or fall. But by all means, surviving Baroque buildings on the get there. Lecce is just too good to square. Since a visit to any Italian miss. ◆ WHERE TO STAY piazza wouldn’t be complete without a PATRIA PALACE HOTEL coffee break and some people watch- dream of 3 Piazzetta Riccardi ing, be sure to visit the historic Caffe e (39) 0832 245111 Pasticceria Alvino for sumptuous sweets www.starwood.com and a latte di mandorla, a local iced Located in an 18th century palace in the coffee drink made with almond syrup. ITALY heart of Lecce, the 5-star Patria caters to Kathleen A. McCabe Publisher and Editor-In-Chief business travelers and tourists alike. Many of Lecce’s more than 40 churches deserve a visit. Don’t miss the city’s € Rates: Doubles start at 170 per night main cathedral in Piazza del Duomo, a Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe with breakfast. Ask for a superior room Design: Leaird Designs completely Baroque square tucked off www.leaird-designs.com if you would like a private balcony facing Corso Vittorio Emmanuele. The cathedral the Basilica of Santa Croce. Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering was built by Giuseppe Zimbalo between Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. € (240 per night with breakfast) 1659 and 1670. Elsewhere in the city, Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- Santa Croce has the most opulent interi- able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions include BED & BREAKFAST or. Modest Santa Irene is dedicated to online access to back issues and regular e-mail updates. ROBERTO LUISA the city’s patron saint. The church of Three ways to subscribe: Via G.C.Vanini, 11 SS. Nicolo e Cataldo hides an incredible 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, Washington, DC, 20016 (39) 832 243199 Romanesque church behind an 18th 2. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 www.robertoluisa.it century façade. Each September, a 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa and Mastercard accepted) This brand new B&B near the historic Baroque music festival is held in the Editorial feedback is welcome. center offers three double rooms, city’s churches. E-mail: [email protected] each with private bathroom. Advertising opportunities are available. Lecce offers surprisingly good shop- E-mail: [email protected] Rates:A double room ranges from € ping from traditional crafts to fashion Copyright © 2004 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights 50 to 65 per night including breakfast. Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- by modern Italian designers. The city is mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide 1 € = $1.22 at press time famous for its papier mache. One of information that is accurate and reliable; however, the best places to buy it is at Cartapesta Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com more wine than other region in Italy. Castles, Cathedrals, Caves: HIGH the farthest cave named Alberobello Grotta Bianca for its With hundreds of white-washed trulli lining white masses of the streets, you might just feel like you rock. Be sure to have walked on to a movie set when you call ahead to enter Alberobello. But the buses and check the times souvenir shops will quickly bring the Monte Sant’Angelo for tours in English. realization that you’ve just arrived at (39 080-4998211) San Giovanni one of Puglia’s major tourist attrac- Rotundo tions. Still this UNESCO World Cisternino Cisternino is yet another lovely, medieval town with narrow, cobblestone streets. Locals recommend Bar Fod (P.V.

Trani

Heritage Site is a must-see. One BARI notable exception to the stores selling plastic trulli is L’Antico Telaio where you Po can buy colorful hand-embroidered linens 4 and ceramics at great prices. (Via Monte Castel del Monte S. Michele, 14) Il Poeta Contadina, serving traditional cuisine with a concentration on seafood, is one of the area’s finest Castel del Monte Altamura restaurants, winning an award from Wine Spectator. (Via Indipendenza 21; Historians aren’t sure of the purpose on Emanuele, 39 080-4321917) For more information on this octagonal castle built by…you guessed 5) as a great the town, visit www.alberobello.net it… Frederick II. It doesn’t appear to have place to listen to any military significance so it may have music and have a drink. served as a hunting lodge or a stop for those on the quest for the Holy Grail. Call Altamura ahead to enquire about tours in English. This charming town, founded by Frederick (39 0883-569997) Grottaglie II on the site of an ancient city, has much The ceramics capital of southern Italy has to offer. First of all, there’s the food. (See been churning out masterpieces since story on page 2.) Then there’s a beautiful Greek times. Grottaglie has dozens of 13th century cathedral with a famous por- Castellana ceramics shops selling modern and tradi- tal depicting the Last Discovered in 1938, the Grottoes of tional designs. Everywhere you look there Supper. Thousands of Castellana (Grotte di Castellana) put this are plates stacked along the streets and dinosaur prints dating back town of 15,000 on the map.This series of vases stored on rooftops. Prices are half 70 million years have also spectacular underground caves, filled with of what you would pay elsewhere in Italy been found in Altamura. fanciful and strange stalagmites and stalac- for Grottaglie pottery. Via Crispi is home Seems they may have liked tites, are the largest in mainland Italy.There to a number of noteworthy artisans the food here too! are two tours available. One lasting 50 including Domenico Caretta (majolica pot- minutes visits the first two caves in the tery), Nicola Bonfrate (traditional designs) chain over 180 feet below the surface.The and Giuseppe Fasano (Greek masks and second tour takes two hours and reaches vases). Also stop by Ceramiche Nicola The Appian Way, built in 312 B.C., LIGHTS OF PUGLIA grotto overlooking the sea and the hotel Fasano on Via Caravaggio. Check out the Ostuni rooms set just above. (39 080-4240677; town’s ceramics museum if you would like www.grottapalazzese.it) to learn more about the art form. This medieval town set on three hills has the nickname la citta bianca for its white stone houses Lecce and Salvetteri di Fasano See story on page 3. churches. See story on page 8. The old town, set on the highest hill, has fabulous views and good shopping and restaurants. Martina Franca If you’re in town for dinner, try Osteria del San Giovanni Rotondo The highest town in Puglia hosts an impor- Tempo Perso housed in a 16th century Statues and photos of Padre Pio, Italy’s tant international music festival each sum- cave. (Via G.Tanzarella Vitale, 47; 39 0831- most revered modern saint, can be found mer. Festival Della Valle d’Itria attracts 303320) For a pleasant stay nearby, check in almost every town in Italy, but it is in world-class performers. (www.festi- into Masseria Il Frantoio, an eight-room, this hilltop town that Pio did valdellavalleditria.it) For a simple traditional antiques-filled bed and breakfast run by a much of his work, and per- meal served inside a trullo, head a few husband-and-wife team. Rates start at 88€ formed some of the miracles miles east to Trattoria delle Ruote (Via per person, per night. (39 0831-330276; that led Pope John Paul II to Monticello, 1; 39 080-4837473). www.trecolline.it) make him a saint in 2002. lignano a Mare Padre Pio, who died here in 1968, was said to have worn Castellana Polignano a Mare the stigmata of Christ, with 5 painful wounds on his extremities. His Salvetteri Be sure to stop in this seaside town to tomb is now the most popular shrine in di Fasano take in the stunning coastal Alberobello Ostuni Italy, receiving up to seven million visitors a views and to taste the Cisternino year. San Giovanni Rotondo is both a reli- BRINDISI , arguably the gious center as well as an over-run tourist Martina Franca best in Italy.Try mecca with hundreds of hotels, cafes and Gelateria Grottaglie souvenir shops.A new basilica dedicated to Mario Padre Pio, designed by Rienzo Piano, is to be inaugurated this summer. It holds more worshippers than Rome’s St. Peter’s. LECCE For more information, visit www.conventopadrepio.com

Campanella Monte Sant’Angelo in the center OTRANTO The major site in this town is Santuario di of town.The Trani San Michele built on top of the grotto small streets are This small port town has a stunning GALLIPOLI where the archangel Michael was said to filled with art galleries. 11th century cathedral built on a have appeared in the year 490.There are If you want to spend the spit of land jutting into the sea. Trani steps to walk down into the grotto itself. night or have dinner; go is also home to yet another castle Monte Sant’Angelo attracted early pilgrims, built by Frederick II.While in Trani, including St. Francis of Assisi, as well as to try some of the town’s famous crusaders leaving for the Holy Land from Grotta dessert wine, Moscato di Trani. nearby Manfredonia. Palazzese. The restaurant is tucked in a stretched from Rome to Brindisi. News, Tips, Deals Be Tr ulli at Home in Puglia ne experience unique to Puglia is If a night or two in a trullo isn’t Othe opportunity to stay in a trullo, enough, how about staying in a home a centuries-old circular building with a constructed out of several trulli? cone-shaped roof. (Trulli is Il Trullo, in the town of First, Read the the plural of trullo). A stay Cisternino, sleeps eight and in a trullo is particularly has a pool and terrace. The Instructions exciting for children. The cost for a week’s rental ravel consultant Nan McElroy has € Hotel Sierra Silvana in Selva ranges from 2,150 to 2,500 published an informative pocket-sized di Fasano has four trulli and includes maid services guide to travel in Italy. Italy: Instructions which resemble traditional three times during the T for Use (Illustra Press, $14.95) forgoes the hotel rooms inside. week. For more hotel and restaurant recommendations and When reserving, speci- information, call Fine focuses on the practicalities of visiting Italy, fy that you want to stay Italian Rentals at such as using the phone system, shipping in a trullo. A double (44) 870 4292024 or with breakfast starts at visit www.fineitalian items home and navigating the language. 102€ per night. For rentals.com ◆ McElroy rightfully reminds readers that more information, call “Italy is a country, not a theme park.” First 6 (39) 080 433-13-22 or or second time visitors will get the most visit www.gesthotels.com out of this colorful book, but even experi-

1 € = $1.22 at press time enced travelers will find a handful of new and helpful tips. For more information, visit www.italyinstructions.com ◆ Enjoy Anna Manieri’s Roman Hospitality Introducing the World’s ait till you hear this one -- a double Eternal City. Her daughter Sandra also First Mozzarella Bar W room literally on Rome’s Spanish offers personalized tours. Manieri Steps for 150€ a night. Impossible, you appears to have the magic touch in Just opened last month, Obika, between Rome’s Piazza say? Not at Anna Manieri’s Bed and keeping her guests happy. When Navona and Pantheon, combines modern Japanese Breakfast. The friendly and low-key actor and Oscar- decor and Southern Italian food – most notably charming Philadelphia-born nominee Bill Murray, in mozzarella. A Neapolitan mozzarella maker and his Manieri lets three doubles Rome to shoot a movie, Roman partner have joined forces to create the in her exquisitely located wanted to leave all of the world’s first mozzarella bar serving fresh cheese driven apartment. Guests enjoy a hub-bub at Rome’s posh up from each day. Diners can start with a separate entrance (with Hotel Eden, he sought sampling of various types of mozzarella from buffalo access doors at both the top refuge in her home. The to burrata. Obika also makes a great place to stop and bottom of the Spanish Steps) and a B&B is closed during August. To make in for an aperitivo (before-dinner drink) and some home-cooked breakfast served in the a reservation, call Anna Manieri at (39) mozzarella snacks. If you’re lucky, you will be served owner’s dining room. Manieri, who has 06 6794288 or e-mail her at by Fabio, a nice, young actor who dreams of working lived in Rome for nearly 50 years, can [email protected] ◆ in New York. Closed Sunday. Via dei Prefetti 26a; help you plan your days visiting the (39) 06 6832630 “Writing and travel broaden your ass if and Events G Noteworthy Travels WARNING: PUGLIA EDITION Beware of Relying on ATMs If the idea of cooking with Puglia’s tour costs $2,898 per person, rich natural products such as lus- excluding airfare, bike rental and avvy travelers know that ty of money in my account, it cious vegetables and plentiful olive several meals. Backroads is running S automated teller machines, was a savings account and oil whets your appetite, then an three trips in September and October or ATMs, have replaced old- therefore I could not access it. affordable week at the The Awaiting 2004. For more information: 800-GO- fashioned traveler’s checks as And I’m not the only one: Table in Lecce is for you. Students ACTIVE; www.backroads.com the way to get cash another friend from (For more on biking in Puglia, see while overseas. Manhattan kept punch- DOI’s March 2004 issue.) Bancomats as they’re ing numbers in vain usually called in Italy, are until I explained the Classic Journeys is one of the few easy to locate and easy situation to him (to his companies to offer a walking tour of to use; many are locat- relief, he had a credit Puglia. The eight-day trip packs in ed close to popular card PIN). many of the highlights of the region including visits to Castel de Monte, tourist attractions, and stay in a bed-and-breakfast while I was fortunate enough Trani,Altamura, Matera,Albero- most offer an “English” spending the week participating in a to be traveling with bello, Otranto, Galatina, Gallipoli key so that the only Italian word mix of cooking lessons, market trips, generous and trusting friends and Lecce. The itinerary includes a you need to know in order to food festivals, dinners and field trips. who advanced me enough cash cooking lesson and a visit to a use them is esegui (enter). Italian-American Sylvestor 7 for expenses such as cabs and private farm. Participants should Silvestori, who returned to his However, there’s one catch that snacks, that couldn’t be covered expect two to three hours of walking many people don’t know about: by a credit card. But I hate to ancestors’ homeland and stayed, European ATMs will only com- think what might happen to a instructs the group, which is usually plete transactions connected to solitary traveler, or a couple fewer than six students. The Awaiting a checking account. I found out caught in this situation. Before Table still has places available dur- ing certain weeks in July, September the hard way. On a recent you go, be sure you know: con- per day. The group spends the first and October 2004. The fee of $1495 sojourn in Tuscany, my ATM card nect your ATM card to a check- two nights at the Palace Hotel in Bari, per person covers all costs from was rejected again and again and ing account. Call (800) 843-7587 the next two nights at the Sassi Hotel arrival in Lecce to departure a week I unfortunately did not have a for advice on ATM use overseas in Matera and the final nights at the later. For more information: (206) PIN number to use so that I and here’s a Web site that Patria Palace Hotel in Lecce. The 669-0388; www.awaitingtable.com could get a cash advance from locates ATMs around the world: next tour is October 1 to 8, 2004 and my credit card. Several phone www.mastercard.com/atm Puglia’s flat and quiet terrain makes costs $2895, based on double occu- calls to my home bank later, I locator/index.jsp it an ideal destination to visit by bike. pancy, including accommodations, learned that although I had plen- — Bethanne Kelly Patrick Backroads, a well-known active all breakfasts, four lunches and four travel company, offers a great intro- dinners. For more information: (800) duction to central Puglia with six 200-3887; www.classicjourneys.com A Bargain Telephone Card days of bike rides through the small The options for calling home from Italy keep expanding. towns surrounding Monopoli, Barsento and Savelletri di Fasano. Our new favorite – Carta Telefonica Internazionale (international telephone card) Bikers rest their tired legs at luxury – available for 5€ at any Italian post office shop. The card gives you about hotels including Il Melograno, a 151 minutes of talk time between Italy and the U.S. if you call from a Relais & Chateaux in Monopoli, and fixed phone line, say in your hotel room. You use a toll-free number and Masseria San Domenico, a fashion- PIN number provided on the back of the card. Calling from a public or able 5-star hotel on the beach. The mobile phone incurs surcharges which gives you less talk time. 1 € = $1.22 at press time f not your mind.” —Ernest Hemingway Escape to a Peaceful Masseria

uglia’s architecture is notable not only for trulli, but for Experience Mediterranean Life P masserie, sighting towers built Rossana Muolo has Puglia in her blood. She was born in Bari and in the Middle Ages just inland from spent 15 years working in her family’s hotels (including Masseria Torre the coast in order to warn of attacking Coccaro) in this region. Even after moving to Milan, Muolo has contin- Turkish pirates. Like others of its kind ued to promote the region of Puglia, at one time owning a shop selling Masseria Torre Coccaro eventually products from the region.Through her travel agency, Mediterranean Life, she now uses her became a feudal farm and today, it has long list of contacts and deep familiarity with Puglia to introduce visitors to its little-known been transformed once again, this time gems. For more information, call (39) 080 482-94-21 or visit www.mediterraneanlife.com into a 5-star resort with over 30 rooms and suites. Torre Coccaro also offers privacy and ment rooms combined with New Age quiet places to be alone. All of the music makes for a mystical massage. Torre Coccaro is just down the road newly constructed classic rooms, inside The grottoes have also been made into from perhaps the most famous of these the masseria’s courtyard, have private several luxury suites. The Orange luxuriously renovated compounds, terraces. Guests can dive into a book or Suite, with its own walled garden and Masseria San Domenico (see write postcards in one of private pool, is perfect for a honey- DOI’s November 2003 the handful of sitting rooms moon. issue). But where San in the old main house. Domenico has a reputation Echoing the South Pacific, While the design and atmosphere of as a place to see and the free-form swimming Torre Coccaro is undoubtedly influ- be seen, Torre Coccaro is a pool has lounge chairs with enced by the past, the hotel owners resort where comfort and straw umbrellas to hide have a thoroughly modern under- 8 relaxation take precedence. From the under. Guests can explore the grounds standing of what today’s savvy travel- silky Frette linens on the beds to the or ride to the beach on mountain ers want — a hotel that offers more sky blue reproduction furniture, from bikes. than just a place to stay (and be pam- the piles of books found in every cor- pered), but a place to learn about local ner of the masseria to the personalized Signs of this masseria’s previous lives culture. attention of owner/manager, Vittorio are preserved throughout the resort Muolo, who lives on the grounds, the and incorporated into its new role. Torre Coccaro has a small cooking entire experience is a warm one. Above the entrance, there’s an opening school where guests can receive private where hot olive oil was once poured lessons in preparing typical local dish- on intruders. The 700-year- es. The session costs 80€ per old olive trees that helped person including lunch. In the DETAILS create that oil still produce addition, the hotel staff can the olives and oil used in organize a tasting of local Masseria Torre Coccaro’s restaurant. wines at the hotel or a private The old farm, with impecca- visit to the nearby Antinori Torre Coccaro bly groomed vegetable vineyard. A private yacht is C. da Coccaro, 8 plants and fruit trees, also available to tour the Savelletri di Fasano provides the ingredients for nearby coastline. (39) 080 482-93-10 the restaurant’s excellent www.masseriatorrecoccaro.com Mediterranean cuisine. The Muolo family is looking Open:All year. ahead to yet another chap- Then there are the grottoes… While ter in the interesting lives of Puglian Rates: Depending on the season, spas are a dime a dozen in luxury masserie. They have purchased an a classic double room with breakfast hotels, Torre Coccaro’s Aveda Spa is adjoining masseria and hope to trans- € ranges from 216 to 320 per night uniquely located underground in a form the property into private apart- and the Orange Garden suite series of caves. The indoor pool, in the ments and homes, offering concierge, with private pool ranges from corner of a large cave, is worth a look if maintenance and rental services to the € 516 to 1033 per night. not a swim. The setting of the treat- owners. ◆ Puglia gets the least rain of any region in Italy. Italy…My Dream Italian Villas with Pools! We invite you to experience Italy...from the mystic lakes in the North through to the colorful South.We have a stunning range of hand-picked properties, converted farmhouses and hilltop castles – in some of Italy’s most beautiful loca- tions.Wide range of exclusive villas throughout Italy with pools. Hand-picked by the leading Italian villa specialist. 23 years experience. Offering you Italy’s best, be it a cottage for 2 or a villa for 22.

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Special Offer for Dream of Italy Readers: Rent a property through Roman Homes and receive the following services, worth hundreds of dollars, at no extra charge: An English-speaking driver will transfer you from the airport or train station to your rental via Mercedes or van. In addition, you will receive free tickets to a tethered hot air balloon allowing you a bird’s eye view of all of Rome and its stunning monuments. To take advantage of this free package available to Dream of Italy readers only, mention “Dream of Italy’s June Special” when booking your rental property through Roman Homes. Your Roman Vacation Rome: The Eternal City…and for those who have visited her, unquestionably the most magnificent city in the world. Like the memory of a lost love, she will haunt you, stealing your senses one by one and hastening your return. For those who have not yet experienced her magic, the thrill awaits…

With 3000 years of history, offer you the very best of your stay, from choosing Our portfolio includes large the art and architecture of properties in Rome– the property that best suits 2/3 bedroom apts. with Rome spans the Imperial, carefully selected and your needs, to ensuring your multiple bathrooms and Classical, Renaissance, meticulously cared for. departure is worry-free. terrace, panoramic roof top Baroque and Modern. In Most of our properties are Knowledgeable and detailed, attics with terraces with Rome, there is something “exclusives,” ensuring that we will ensure that all your stunning views, one for everyone to enjoy. our extraordinarily high needs are met during your bedroom apts., villas near One lifetime, say the standards are always visit, arrange for car hire, Rome and also in . Romans, is simply not maintained. side trips, etc. enough to experience all and help make Properties are equipped the enchantment that is Roman your stay one with AC, landline phone, part of the Eternal City. Homes will that you will washing facilities, heat, help you with remember for satellite color TV, pool.

Roman Homes is proud to every detail a lifetime… Copyright 1997-2004 Roman Homes Please contact: ROMAN HOMES® Internet: www.romanhomes.com • e-mail : [email protected] • Tel. (+39) 069352215 or (+39) 3332420210 Please tell our advertisers that you saw them in