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Puglia's Bounty Awaits Food Lovers

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Puglia's Bounty Awaits Food Lovers INSIDE: Lecce: Baroque Jewel 3 A Quick A Guide to Puglia’s Towns 4 Puglia Stay in a Trullo 6 Noteworthy Travels: Primer Puglia Edition 7 What You Need to Know • Puglia, the Italian name for this region, is usually referred to as Apulia in English, from the Latin spelling. In Italian, something from this SPECIAL REPORT: PUGLIA region is called Pugliese, while in English, it might be called Apulian or Puglian. dream of • This long strip of land comprising the “heel” of Italy has a unique landscape devoid of moun- tains and covered by plains and hills. Farms devoted to vineyards, olive trees and vegetables are separated by neatly constructed stone walls. The giant olive trees, several feet in diameter, twisted and towering, are startling. The area surrounding Alberobello is dotted with trulli. These small conical buildings, first built in the 13th century, are created out of limestone and ITALYVolume 3, Issue 6 www.dreamofitaly.com June 2004 unique to Puglia. Puglia’s sandy beaches are a big draw to this area; three-quarters of the region borders the sea. Puglia’s Bounty • Puglia’s strategic location made it a target for conquering and colonization by Byzantines, Awaits Food Lovers Saracens, Greeks, Romans, Normans, Swabians, Turks and Spaniards, among others. Their o you think you’ve eaten well are startling. These ancient giants must influences can be found throughout the region in Italy? Suspend all judgment be 50 times the size of the trees in from the Spanish Baroque architecture of Lecce until you’ve visited Puglia, Tuscany with trunks several feet in and Martina Franca to the ornate cathedrals Swhere the Mediterranean sun diameter and radiating and twisted constructed by the Normans. Frederick II of waves its magic wand to produce a branches that can sometimes make Swabia (now part of Germany) played a major true bounty of magnificent, them resemble people, although role in Puglia, building Romanesque churches flavorful gifts. With agricul- scary ones at that. Puglia pro- and castles here in the 13th century. ture as its lifeline, Puglia pro- duces one-third of Italy’s olive duces a rainbow of vegetables. oil and as with most regions, • Bari and Brindisi are the transportation hubs in The dominant producer of durum this “green gold” is the staple Puglia. Ryanair serves both cities from London. wheat, Puglia is the source of 80% of for almost every dish. The Volare has several budget flights to both cities Europe’s pasta. Most of the fish locals also eat plenty of olives — from Milan, Rome and Venice. Also check major Italians eat comes from here. Pugliese yellow, green and black, served salted carriers such as Alitalia. Rome and Naples are cuisine takes advantage of all of these or in water or lime water. just a few hours away by train. The best way to fresh ingredients and combines them get around the region is by car so rent one in simple, yet mouth-watering ways. Veg out once you arrive. You can’t say you have truly eaten Italian cuisine, until you’ve experi- Because vegetables are so abundant, • Like the rest of Southern Italy, Puglia can get enced the tastes of Puglia. they are the main ingredients for so extremely hot. That’s why most businesses, and many Pugliese dishes. Each part of almost all stores and museums, still close in the Green gold Puglia grows something special. afternoon. Avoid Puglia in August when it is There’s lettuce from Polignano, arti- hottest and Italian tourists take over the The gargantuan olive trees in Puglia continued on page 2 beaches. There are 50 million olive trees in Puglia. Puglia’s Bounty Awaits Food Lovers continued from page 1 chokes from Trinitapoli and Much to the dismay to A foodie town celery from Monte Americans, horsemeat is Sant’Angelo. very popular here. If you Altamura makes a wonderful stop for want to try it, order braciole anyone interested in Pugliese cuisine. Tons of eggplant and toma- di cavallo, horsemeat steaks The town has some unique foods, toes grow here, providing the cooked in tomato sauce. starting with the bread, pane di ingredients for wonderful Altamura. The durum wheat mixture is sun-dried tomatoes and With such an expansive allowed to rise three times and then melanzane alla campagnola coastline, Puglia offers an baked for over an hour in wood- (roasted eggplant drenched in array of fish and seafood, burning stoves at over 25 bakeries all olive oil and seasonings). Plenty of including cuttlefish, lobster, octopus, over town. The large loaves of chewy vegetables grow wild, such as fennel anchovies, eels, sea urchins, shellfish, bread can reportedly be kept for a and chicory. Lampascioni, local seasonal mussels, mullet, squid and tuna. Zuppe month before being consumed. onions served boiled or fried, can be di pesce, fish soup, is a popular dish found in the wild as well. allowing locals to combine their fresh This town is also home to cardoncelli, catches. Rice, a leftover from Spanish musky wild mushrooms. One popular Local chefs know hundreds of ways to domination, with mussels is also a way to serve the mushrooms is with prepare these vegetables in order to characteristic dish of this region; as is orecchiette and sausages. maximize their flavors. Let them be tortiera, fresh anchovies made with your guides. One tip though, be sure to bread crumbs and Pecorino cheese. To finish off your culinary tour, how taste fava e cicoria, a puree of fava about a drink, a stiff drink. beans, topped with olive oil, chili pep- Puglia has excellent Look no further than pers and wild chicory. cheese. Most note- Altamura’s Padre Peppe Nocino 2 worthy is the burrata, a an herb and walnut liqueur, Good carbs fresh mozzarella with a aged for four years. The drink spongy and creamy is named in honor of a priestly With such an immense center. Also try the local ancestor of the Striccoli family production of durum wheat, it’s no ricotta (made with the milk of sheep, who have produced the drink since the wonder that Pugliesi have pasta with goats or cows) and cacioricotta, a kind early 19th century. Try it at Caffe Ronchi almost every meal. The local pasta is of sheep’s cheese. on Corso Federico II di Svevia. ◆ orecchiette, named for and shaped like little ears. Traditional chefs make it by rolling out pasta dough, tearing off PUGLIA: No Longer a Silent Wine Producer small pieces and making a thumb print ith warm weather, consistent day/night temperatures “black and bitter.” Most reds are a blend of these two and in each piece. The most popular way to and fertile soil, Puglia is one of Italy’s largest wine- others. serve it is with broccoli rabe or with W producing regions, if not the largest in any given year. cauliflower and grated ricotta cheese. One of these has earned quite a bit of buzz in Italy and So why haven’t you heard much about its wines? in the U.S. Salice Salentino, named for an area near For years, the bulk wine made here has blended with Lecce, is a powerful red made mostly with Negroamaro, Pugliese protein French or Italians vintages that needed additional structure. as well as Malvasia Nera di Brindisi and Malvasia It was also shipped to Turin to be used in making Nero di Lecce. The influence of Puglia’s former rulers Vermouth. is evident in the region’s food. Like the One powerful sign that Puglia has become a serious But now, local winemakers are concentrating on producing Greeks, Pugliesi eat plenty of lamb, winemaking region is the arrival of the Antinori family, high quality wines by reducing yields, incorporating modern usually roasted on a spit-fire with the Tuscan winemakers who have been practicing their technology and picking the grapes at the perfect moment. plenty of herbs. They even have a form craft for 26 generations. At their new estate Tormaresca, It seems to be working as Puglia now produces 25 DOC of haggis; gnummerieddi is made by the family is harvesting two ancient red grapes, wines. Puglia reds have been the most popular and are stuffing a lamb gut with herbs and Negroamaro and Aglianico. California-based Kendall-Jackson frequently compared to California wines due to similar cli- garlic and grilling it over an open fire. has also invested in the area. mate and winemaking techniques. The main red grape is There’s little beef or pork consumed in Primitvo, the parent of California Zinfandel. The other There’s much to say about Pugliese wines and we will be Puglia. popular red grape is Negroamaro, local dialect for writing about them again soon. Puglia produces more grapes and m LECCE: Puglia’s Crown Jewel alled “the Florence of the fashion. The architecture of the entire Claudio Riso (Corso Vittorio South” and “the Athens of city has a collective feeling of warmth Emmanuele, 27). C Puglia,” Lecce, a small city of and elegance. 100,000 near the very bottom of Italy’s For a reasonably priced heel, reigns as one of the most beauti- The city’s main square Piazza meal of regional specialties, ful cities in southern Italy, if not the Sant’Oronzio is go to Picton (Via Idomeneo, entire country. Its remote location has home to an 14; 39 0832 332-383). kept it a secret for much too long, but ancient Roman La Rusticana (Corso V.E., 31) a visit to Puglia can’t be complete amphitheater makes an excellent stop for without a tour of this university and uncovered dur- a quick lunch or cultural center.
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