CHECKING OUT udon thani The Guide Insider tips and the latest trends are revealed in our ultimate guide to every Bangkok Airways destination

88 Thailand 113 Myanmar 121 Cambodia & Laos 129 Singapore & Kuala Lumpur 135 Hong Kong 139 South Asia

A body of art Mixed-media artist Anida Yoeu Ali’s striking work has been acclaimed by international art critics and exhibited across the globe. Her work centres on soft sculptures that extend from the artist’s own body into public spaces. The ethereal Enter the Field#1 is a dance performance the Cambodian-American artist created in Cambodia’s rice fields. Read more about her current project, and Ali’s guide to

IMAGE: ???????? IMAGE: her hometown of Phnom Penh, on page 119

84 FAHTHAI THE GUIDE thailand ULTIMATE CHATUCHAK MARKET GUIDE; HOT THAI MUSIC FESTIVAL

BANGKOK THE GUIDE

MARKET MAYHEM Festive season Rachamankha's zen courtyards Four not-to-be-missed festivals across (top); Hotel M Thailand (below) A castaway on Koh Mak; the Siam this January and February Downtown ladyboys of Bangkok; Samui’s lush Lamai neighbourhood PATTAYA PATTAYA BIKE WEEK CHIANG MAI 13-14 February One of the largest such gatherings in Asia, this Inside this city’s ancient, crumbling brick walls one can find annual celebration of all things two wheels draws some pretty lush – and centrally located – boutique hotels. thousands of bikers from throughout the world, with some flying in from the US and Europe, while others drive up from Singapore and Malaysia. Along with the hogs, the week includes music, stunt riding, and a huge closing party. facebook.com/ ANTIQUITY burapabikeweek

CHIANG MAI BO SANG UMBRELLA FESTIVAL 15-17 January This festival celebrates the skills of the umbrella makers of Bo Sang, outside of Chiang Mai, who have been hand-making parasols, fans and lanterns for more than 200 years. Made out of silk, cotton and paper, they are painted with intricate floral designs, reflecting the nature that still surrounds this

COLOUR CRUSH picturesque village. tourismthailand.org (clockwise) Bo Sang; Underwater weddings; Chiang KRABI Mai flower festival TRANG UNDERWATER WEDDING 14 February art of the charm of Chiang the plush 25-room and suite Rachamankha Exactly what it sounds like – couples come from far Mai is its 700-year-old old hotel (rachamankha.com). Wander through and wide to tie the knot under the warm waves of city: winding alleyways full of Secret Garden-like courtyards (architect the Andaman Sea. After planting a 'tree of love' in street-food vendors, shophouses, Ong-ard Satrabhandhu was inspired by the Thung Khai Botanic Gardens, participants take gildedP wats and small art galleries. Many of the area’s historic Chinese architecture and part in a traditional Thai wedding ceremony, before Thailand’s big cities were once surrounded landscaping), past the pool to traditional donning scuba gear and heading underwater to say by grand walls and moats, but Chiang Mai Lanna dwellings. Rooms are full of gorgeous “I do”, as best they can. tourismthailand.org is one of just a few where such structures Chinese antiques and bright blooms, while remain mostly intact. Tours of the old the restaurant serves up excellent northern city usually start at the majestic east-side Thai and Burmese cuisine. Chiang Mai is CHIANG MAI Thapae Gate, restored in the 1980s. This home to some of Thailand’s greatest artists CHIANG MAI FLOWER FESTIVAL historic entrance to the city was said to give and is adored by art aficionados the around 6-8 February good luck to those that just lived behind the region. De Naga (denagahotel.com) See Thailand's northern capital in bloom at this its walls. A good reason, then, to stay at hotel, also just by Thapae Gate, sports a colourful annual event, which features a flower float Hotel M (hotelmchiangmai.com). Tucked lovely gallery with paintings, finely woven THAI FIESTA parade and Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival beauty just behind Thapae, you’ll find spacious textiles, silverware and Thai crafts. The Pattaya Bike Festival (left and contest. The best place to take it all in is the Suan and modern rooms, affable staff and a hotel is just as delightful: trees dripping in above left); Chiang Buak Haad park on the southwest corner of the old fabulous position close to the lively night pretty lanterns and gardens full of twisting Mai flower festival city, where flowers and miniature trees are judged. market. Further west, just by the Suan Dok naga sculptures mean you don’t forget

TEXT: CLAIRE KNOX, THOMAS STURROCK, BEK VAN VLIET, SIMON OSTHEIMER, AMY ARMAN AMY SIMON OSTHEIMER, VLIET, BEK VAN THOMAS STURROCK, CLAIRE KNOX, TEXT: tourismthailand.org gate and the Wat Phra Sing temple, rests you’re in Thailand’s verdant far north.

88 FAHTHAI THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 BANGKOK FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 CHIANG MAI FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations FAHTHAI 89 THE GUIDE thailand COCKTAIL MAESTRO’S BANGKOK HAUNTS; ART IN THE CITY ON YOUR BOAT: PHUKET FESTIVAL; BANGKOK'S BEST CONTEMPORARY ART THE GUIDE thailand

LAVISH LUXURY PHUKET The spa at the Peninsula (left, bottom); So Spa’s tranquil rooms Get on the boat

SEASIDE EVENT

Now in its 12th year, the Phuket International Boat Show has become one of the major events on the Asian marine calendar. We asked directorAndy Retreat Dowden what makes the event, yourself from 8-11 January so popular Why was the festival founded? Rolls Royce and Aston Martin cars as distance from Phuket. Clear waters experience nearly every part of the In 2003 the then Singapore Boat well as marine equipment. A highlight and coral abound. The island boasts world, taking my home with me. Show was declining and Phuket was will be the Custom Line Next 112 – four top class marinas and a wealth Anyone who has a holiday home growing rapidly and was the obvious the largest yachts in the show with all of experienced service companies at on the island has the opportunity to BANGKOK location in the region for a marine the major brands displaying yachts affordable prices. enjoy a great lifestyle with a boat. We lifestyle show. from 20m upwards have three major regattas in Phuket Five different spa experiences What is your ideal sailing experience? each year, and these days most of my in Thailand’s capital city Why can people expect when they visit? What makes Phuket such an attractive I spent seven years living and sailing sailing is done racing, whilst zipping A spectacular in water display with destination for yachties? on my own boat before deciding out to a secluded beach is best done yachts ranging from 8m to 35m, There are thousands of unspoiled Phuket had the potential to become with a power boat when time permits. luxury lifestyle exhibits including tropical islands within cruising the hub it is today. I was able to phuketboatshow.com

For the design enthusiast... with whirlpool tubs and steam rooms. wall, this shophouse on Sukhumvit Soi 23 SO SPA Try the sumptuous 110-minute Peninsula offers one-hour foot massages and Thai Located at the Sofitel So Bangkok, this Time package (THB5,400), which allows massages for THB100. The entire street design-focused luxury spa offers five-star the therapist to tailor a treatment to your is lined with girly massage joints, but you ADLER SUBHASOK GI CONTEMPORARY TOOT YUNG treatments at a competitive price (around needs. bangkok.peninsula.com can identify Tony’s by its conspicuous GALLERY Sathorn art space H Gallery has The latest offering from hip THB3,000 for a 60-minute massage). lack of ladies lined up at the front. Inside Opened last March, this rather just opened the doors to GI Ekkamai art space Toot Yung is a Background music is ambient – you can For the city slicker... it’s clean and colourful with a pleasant striking two-floor contemporary Contemporary on the ground residency by Amsterdam-based even pick your own tracks – but the URBAN RETREAT whiff of lemongrass. facebook.com/ gallery on Sukhumvit Soi 33 floor of luxury Ratchaprasong street artist Daan Botlek. The best part is the commanding view over There are two Urban Retreat spas, TonyThaiMassage showcases some of the hottest shopping mall Gaysorn. Opening artist was in Bangkok in 2013 LATTE SCHOOL Lumphini Park and the chocolate treats both located in prime shopping hubs, Thai and international artists of the the space is “Pastorale”, the latest for the successful Bukruk street from the Chocolab once the treatment which explains the preponderance of For the local... If you’re moment. That’s thanks in part to work of acclaimed Chiang Mai art festival. After his December cycling over wraps. sofitel-so-bangkok.com bag-toting, mall-fatigued ladies. Both HEALTH LAND the Thonburi its partnership with Parisian gallery artist Mit Jai Inn. It’s a striking, residency (there are plans to outlets offer well-priced massages and This franchise is insanely popular with side of the Art of Adler, which boasts connections metaphor-rich set of swirly, paint several walls in Chinatown Chao Phraya lengthy packages – you can sign up for a locals and expats, offering a slew of to Helmut Newton and David smudged abstract paintings that and Sukhumvit) he’ll have a solo For the indulgence seeker... River, head the City THE SPA three-hour, 50-minute pamper package massages and beauty treatments, priced to Appresso LaChappelle. Until 8 February the look at the relationship between exhibition of prints, drawings, You can rely on heritage brands such at THB5,150. They also offer waxing very reasonably (from THB500 for Café for some work of Thailand-based Japanese country and city; traditional and paintings and other objects from of Bangkok’s as The Peninsula, perched beside the services – one of the few reputable wax a two-hour Thai massage.) Muslin- best flat whites BANGKOK artist Shimizu Soichiro is on show. modern. It’s also site specific: 17 January to 14 February. Before Chao Phraya River, to go all out in the joints in Bangkok. urbanretreatspa.net clad therapists are professional and and affordable His textured paintings, layered and Ratchaprasong is where this, a collection of Thai painter training decadence department. Upon check-in experienced, applying their skills with courses on The latest full of dimension, explore duality: “red-shirt” protestors created Tawan Wattuya’s latest series of here, you’re whisked into slippers and For the bargain hunter... the care of a genuine practitioner. It’s latte art. It’s a yin and yang, light and shadow, a blockade in 2010 in order to dreamy, compelling watercolors nice day trip. ushered into a 100-year-old converted customary to tip THB100 to the therapist. exhibitions to life and death. protest their disenfranchisemen. is on display, dubbed “Dek Oey TONY THAI MASSAGE appressocafe. facebook.com/ mansion where the top suites are equipped Less a spa, more a ramshackle hole in the healthlandspa.com com hit the capital adlersubhashokgallery Until 31 January. hgallerybkk.com Dek Dee”. tootyunggallery.com

90 FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 CHIANG RAI FREQUENCY 3 flights per day from Bangkok THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 CHIANG RAI FREQUENCY 3 flights per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 91 THE GUIDE thailand NIGHT MOVES: A BANGKOK JAZZ BAND NOT TO BE MISSED CAT CAFÉS, SPEAKEASIES AND PIZZERIAS – WHAT’S HOT THE GUIDE thailand

SULTRY SOUNDS NEW DIGS The decadent Koh Chang's Awa Maggie Choos; (centre and top (Right, from top): right); the green horn section; Chai; X2 Phuket (right) vocalist Nurse What’s on

BANGKOK

January heralds the arrival of the cooler climes in Thailand. Head outdoors to these two events

TO MARKET, TO MARKET Over the last year, popular foodie bazaar Spring Epicurean Market has proven just how enthusiastically DESIGNER HOTELS organic Bangkokians are. Held on the lawns of stylish, eco-conscious eatery SpringSummer, scores are heading here for lazy picnic brunches and to stock up on artisanal goods and “superfoods” sold by independent producers every last Sunday of the month. Find Flower Power's organic trail mixes, Mediterranean- style salads by Polpa (we like the quinoa with beetroot HIGH FIDELITY and mackerel salad), hearty Columbian empanadas ARTY RETREAT from Carla’s Cucina and Neighbor’s Granola (created The stylish Sala by Ian Kittichai’s assistant Max Wittawat) 8am-1pm; features minimalist facebook.com/springepicureanmarket white rooms and It's in the striking views BANGKOK SYMPHONY Moody amed after a Tell us about your history... What's special about playing at detail Continue picnicking in style in Bangkok’s vast, verdant fictional Shanghai I played and lived in the US Maggie Choos? Lumpini Park. Over four months (until 1 February), the blues cabaret owner in the early ’90s. I had a bar It’s so ambient. The audience of Phuket's longest beaches – Bang Tao – Bangkok Symphony are holding free weekly concerts who fled her in Chiang Mai after that but really interacts with us; they pay These three new hotels have been surrounds an emerald green pool, and a large here as past of their Concert in the Park series. The Nhometown in 1931 and settled closed it and moved to Bangkok attention and there’s a fun vibe. house where groups can socialise in the living orchestra have been playing here for two decades now: lauded for their attention to design in Bangkok, unapologetically four years ago. Nurse [the space, complete with games room. While a fun mix of Thai and Western classics, pop songs, opulent live-music venue popular lead singer] is from Why are audiences so captivated you're welcome to rustle up dinner yourself, Broadway ballads with a few kitsch medleys thrown in. BANGKOK BANGKOK Maggie Choos is an intriguing Sukhothai and was studying by Nurse? housekeeping and an onsite butler are at your It's always held at the Sala Bhirom Bhakdi gazebo near blend of sophistication, sauciness at the time in Chiang Mai. Nurse has her own personality SALA AYUTTHAYA beck and call, making it a perfect blend of Salasin Road. They kick off at 5:30pm every Sunday, Silom venue Maggie Choos – and and decadence. It’s home to When I heard her singing at and the songs we play are With just 26 rooms, this luxurious boutique privacy and luxury. x2resorts.com but recent concerts have seen around 2000 people – its live music – delivers the goods great Cantonese food, creative university I knew she’d make a those that fit her voice. They’re property sits on the bank of the Chao Phraya mostly families – flock there, so get in early. Admission cocktails and burlesque-type great lead soul songstress, like timeless and classic songs river in the heart of old Ayutthaya, a UNESCO is free. bangkoksymphony.org KOH CHANG dancers perched on giant swings. Aretha [Franklin]. We started and she nails them each time. World Heritage site north of Bangkok. Directly Beyond the secret society-like singing as a duo and met our She’s really focused on her opposite is Wat Phutthaisawan, an ancient temple AWA KOH CHANG vault doors is a jumble of leather sax and keyboard players in performance and puts in a lot built in the 14th century by King Ramathibodi It wasn't so long ago that Koh Chang was chesterfields, sultry jade lighting Bangkok. We haven’t yet found of feeling – she’s very intense. I I, the founder of the city. For the best views of considered a backpacker destination, with and plush velvet chairs (the bar a permanent drummer. think because she’s quite petite the temple, check into the duplex suite, with a simple wood huts and full moon parties. was created by well known and her voice is very powerful private deck that opens up directly onto the water. Today, it's increasingly awash with luxury designer Ashley Sutton). What Can you describe your sound? it’s quite surprising. And she’s salaresorts.com resorts muscling in on the former hippie really impresses at Maggie I’d say it’s a mix of soul, blues, got great hair. haven. Located on Kai Bae Beach on the Choos though is the smooth, R’n’B and New Orleans-style west coast, and with 119 rooms, the Awa PHUKET jazzy five-person band, Chai and jazz and swing from the ’60s Chai and the Blues Band Maniacs is the largest hotel on the island, and it has the Blues Band Maniacs. Fah and ’70s. My guitar heroes are play Thursdays and Saturdays X2 PHUKET OASIS VILLAS a pool to match – a 1,200 square metre Thai spoke to lead guitarist Chai Jimi Hendrix, T-Bone Walker, at 9.30pm. facebook.com/ Based on a traditional Thai family compound, behemoth which staff refer to as the 'River'. about this special venue: Albert King and Freddy King. maggiechoos this collection of seven villas located behind one awakohchang.com

92 FAHTHAI THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 KRABI FREQUENCY 3 flights per day from Bangkok, 1 flight from Samui THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 KOH CHANG/TRAT FREQUENCY 3 flights per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 93 THE GUIDE thailand SHOP TALK: THE LION, THE WITCH AND THE WARDROBE THE GUIDE thailand

1 3 9 13 7

5 6 2

12 BANGKOK Shoptalk: Rotsaniyum

This whimsical boutique in Phra Nakorn channels Narnia’s icy White Witch and is a treasure trove of delicate 11 lace, ruffled fairy-tale gowns and exquisite furniture 4

8 esigner Thita have fine credentials – she with an Art Kamonetsawat (known History major and he with a degree in 1 Cropped lace blouse, 5 Lace maxi-skirt, 9 Pleated skirt, as Khun Gib) began Fine Arts. Khun Gib has a penchant THB3,590 THB5,590 THB7,990 Dselling trendy t-shirts in for white; snowy and silvery is now 2008 at Bangkok’s hipster weekend the label’s signature. “I’m inspired by 2 “Full-structured” 6 Layered maxi-skirt, 10 White fur lace-up market Chatuchak with designer classic noir films and Bangkok. Here, skirt, THB2,790 THB8,890 boots, THB8,290 husband Pongsak Kobrattanasuk. we have a wonderful brew of local A year later, they had their own sources and materials, global creativity 3 Oversized lace dress, 7 “See-through” 11 “Two faces” midi- store and the brand soon became and great multiculturalism,” she says. THB6,990 camisole, THB1,790 skirt, THB4,290 a favourite amongst the city’s “Rotsaniyum means ‘personal taste’ 10 fashionistas. They’ve now got a in Thai. You can find lace in many 4 White fur slippers, 8 White fur lace-up 12 Lace tee, THB2,790 boutique at Siam centre but it's the places but the Rotsaniyum lace has art THB4,290 boots, THB8,290 bewitching Samsen Road flagship and style, it’s in another dimension.” 13 Cape dress, that really impresses. The artsy couple rotsaniyom.com THB5,990 MAIN IMAGE: DAVID TERRAZAS DAVID MAIN IMAGE:

94 FAHTHAI THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 KOH SAMUI FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 KRABI FREQUENCY 4 flights per day from Bangkok, 1 flight from Samui FAHTHAI 95 THE GUIDE thailand UK HIPSTER EVENT HITS THAILAND; TOP GETAWAYS A WEEKEND AWAY ON KOH MAK; BANGKOK'S KATOOEY SHOWS THE GUIDE thailand

BANGKOK

Are they

ISLAND ESCAPE or aren’t (Clockwise) Happy Days; rural they? roads; fresh crab; sculptures; sea view

LUSH LANDSCAPES Bangkok is renowned for its Sunsets are a highlight at katooey (ladyboy) cabaret scene. Arthit-tara; Asita’s bungalows (below) We’ve rounded up four of the best

THE PLAYHOUSE THEATRE Watch extravagant burlesque queen Niracha, who joined the glamorous Playhouse troupe 12 years ago after leaving school, belt out Tina Turner ballads with her coterie. Niracha insists egos are mostly kept in check. ESCAPE THE CITY “Our boss insists we work as a team. He doesn’t want divas,” she says. “There’s only room for one diva and

KOH CHANG that’s him.” playhousethailand.com

CALYPSO BANGKOK Asiatique is an upscale shopping and entertainment BANGKOK Weekender: Koh Mak precinct on the banks of the Chao Praya River, built on the site of a refurbished shipping yard. It’s also home Koh Chang's southern neighbour offers a more independent, free-wheeling to the Calypso Theatre and its lively cabaret ensemble, travel experience. This privately owned island sustains itself economically via which includes a Thai Elvis impersonator and a Countryside coconut and rubber tree plantations; tourism here is sleepy and undeveloped ‘Japanese classic’ involving a line-up of geishas dressed in ostrich costumes. calypsocabaret.com drive HIT THE WATER side-trip – especially if you Bar (bananasunset.com) 1 Swimming is a must – have kids – is Koh Kradat, on the southern peninsular BROADWAY BABE the ocean is warm, calm and a 10-minute long-tail boat or go to Koh Mak Resort Kristen Rossi has been performing her one-woman Check out these weekend getaway impossibly clear, especially off ride from Koh Mak’s eastern (kohmakresort.com) – a show, a mixture of burlesque, show tunes, vaudeville options within a few hours of Bangkok main beach Ao Kao. Rent a coastline. The main attraction of modern, three-star property and cabaret, all over Bangkok for several years kayak and paddle over to the this tiny, rustic dot of an island that offers sundowner cocktail and currently has a regular Wednesday night gig small island of Koh Rayang is its deer population, who are specials with wide, beautiful at the Ashley Sutton designed Bangkok Betty. where a private bungalow resort tame and happy to be hand-fed views across the bay. broadwaybabeasia.com ASITA ECO RESORT ARTHIT-TARA BANGKOK TREE HOUSE (rayang-phurin.com) allows and photographed. This low-key luxury resort is Located on the banks of Samut Prakan is often referred day visitors for THB100 per GO GOURMET SIAM NIRAMIT within 90 minutes of Bangkok. the Bang Pakong River in to as Bangkok’s “green lung”. person. Park yourself on a sun RIDE AROUND THE ISLAND 5 For an island this size, This stage show combines vast sets with colourful Not far from Amphawa’s Prachinburi, Arthit-tara is Though it’s just on the other lounger on the sand or snorkel 3 The best way to explore there’s a surprisingly rich costumes in an epic tale about the history of Thailand. famous floating market, Asita another resort getaway with an side of the Chao Praya River, it around the entire island. On the Koh Mak is by motor scooter array of great food. A clutch The story takes in the ancient Lanna Kingdom, the incorporates the waterways into unconventional design. Guests feels like you’ve journeyed much way back to Ao Kao try to spot or bicycle, which you can rent of German expats ensure Euro Khmer heritage of Isaan and the former capital in its design, with a canal snaking stay in their own self-contained farther afield. This elevated the nine underwater elephant from most resorts. The concrete cuisines are well-represented and Ayutthaya. siamniramit.com between the resort’s villas. The huts, which boast striking, eco-resort is built among the sculptures standing on the sea roads are in good condition, the island’s eco-consciousness lush, riverside location makes it creative architecture, and have treetops with rooms – or “nests” bed, part of a project called Art but there are plenty of unpaved manifests in lots of good organic perfect for a relaxing weekend their own open-air jacuzzis. – connected by walkways for Ocean. roads on the map as well, grub. For a seafood BBQ, try getaway and the emphasis Arthit-tara is a solid pick for that look like they were some of which lead to secluded Baan Chai Lay on Ao Kao on green practices is obvious. those seeking a quiet, natural pinched from an Ewok village. ISLAND-HOP beaches, some to fantastic beach or head to the island’s Guests can dine on seafood they retreat. That said, the owners Construction relies heavily 2 While the beaches of lookouts. most famous restaurant, Koh catch themselves at the resort’s aren’t averse to taking visitors on natural materials, such as Koh Mak don’t offer much Mak Seafood, near the ferry marine farm and on organic out for a spin on their speedboat bamboo, and biological filters coral, there’s a dive spot called SUNSET DRINKS pier. Swiss Sawasdee, La Dolce vegetables grown on site. and for a champagne picnic. are used to purify the pool. Koh Wai 20 minutes away by 4 For the best sunset and Food Art Hut are also great

asitaresort.com arthit-tara.com bangkoktreehouse.com VLIET BEK VAN IMAGES: speedboat. Another worthwhile views, head to Banana Sunset Western options.

96 FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 PHUKET FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 LAMPANG FREQUENCY 3 flights per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 97 THE GUIDE thailand AVANT-GARDE BANGKOK GASTRONOMY; TRAVEL IDEAS MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY IN PHUKET; NEW HOTELS THE GUIDE thailand

CHIANG MAI Why I live in Local tips A little Chiang Mai Bilbao luxury Celebrated Indian-Thai artist Navin BANGKOK Two new Rawanchaikul is a man of intrigue. The by the places to stay Guggenheim-exhibited artist talks to Fah “My tip here is food. I love Thai food - I love Thai about his heritage, why he travels beach BANGKOK anything traditional but I and why his work is rooted in Thailand love to see people take it CABOCHON to another level. I come Close to hip Thonglor, from New York City so I this charming new eight- like the neighbourhood room hotel nods to the PHUKET joints. I love Soul Food on Prohibition era with a Great the corner of Thong Lor. I Thai ingredients are Gatsby-influenced design love seafood and oysters – mosaic-tiled floors, high - the whole oyster thing transformed using innovative ceilings, wide balconies, has blown up in Bangkok Basque techniques t’s not every day that you have the chance to art-deco furnishings, as well. There’s now a sample the creations of a Michelin-starred taxidermy and a rooftop culture for good seafood chef in Thailand. Just 20 minutes north of pool. The onsite boutique avin Rawanchaikul likes questions. In one of his “In 2008 I went to New Orleans with a friend. I didn't in Thailand. Dan Koh of Phuket, newly opened eatery Aziamendi serves with its vintage garments acclaimed earlier works, his conversion of a taxi know much about the city, so I Googled it, and then thought I Sea Truffle, he imports whatI is arguably the most talked-about food in all and bric-a-brac is cute but into a mobile gallery questioned the very notion of should see if anyone called Navin lived there. When we came fresh uni and Irish oysters of Thailand – an offbeat blend of Thai ingredients, the real highlight is open- what art and art making is. “What is the meaning across jazz musician Narvin Kimball, we were intrigued by and creates fun pop-up Basque cooking techniques and the trappings of kitchen eatery Thai Lao Yeh. Nof local and foreigner?” he asks us. “My name Navin has his story, and decided to look him up after we landed.” Sadly, restaurants in Ekkamai.”- molecular gastronomy. Part of the dramatic, very It has a vast menu inspired Indian origins yet is also a Thai name. I grew up asking myself, when they arrived, Navin was told that the jazzman had died Daryl Scott, founder of swank new resort Iniala, Aziamendi is helmed by by northern cuisine and 'Am I local or an outsider?'” in Hurricane Katrina. “We met his wife and manager, and CHI Ultralounge Basque-born superstar chef Eneko Atza. At just 35, serves high-end street Rawanchaikul, who kaleidoscopic works include sculpture, learned all about his fascinating life [Kimball was a founding Atza is the youngest Spanish chef to collect three food in an elegant setting. painting, performance, photography and film, posed this member of the city's famed Preservation Hall Jazz Band]. We “Bangkok is a charming Michelin stars. The chef’s Foie Gras Ashes, a smoky cabochonhotel.com question in 2009’s epic Places of Rebirth, inspired by his first also discovered that because of Katrina he hadn't been given monster, and even foie-gras mousse, frozen and grated over crispy PHUKET visit to Pakistan where his ancestors hail from. Of Indian a proper funeral – so we decided to hold what they call a after 14 years I am still Catalunyan bread, is sheer brilliance. aziamendi.com descent, he was born and works in Chiang Mai, holds 'second line'”. And so, on November 1, 2008, a jazz march exploring new areas. My SANTOSA WELLNESS Japanese permanent residency and spends part of the year in was held through the French Quarter, with Navin walking new fascination is digging CENTRE Fukuoka. The painting, which tells the story of his family’s hand-in-hand with Kimball's daughter, flanked by huge into the history of old This newly opened resort migration to Thailand, was purchased by the Guggenheim; celebratory paintings he had made for the occasion. Chinese shrines – Chieng only adds to Phuket’s the next year Rawanchaikul was awarded the national So why does he call Chian Mai home? “Here, the Kong Shrine in Talat Noi, growing reputation as Silapathorn citation from the Thai Ministry of Culture. traditional arts still blend well with contemporary lifestyle, and and the Chao Mae Kuan a global destination for This obsession with identity may explain why he founded – unlike in big cities – the community bond remains strong, Imm Shrine. I spend time detox. Perched on a the Navin Party, which was a way to find and unite Navins which is one of the major themes that tie together my work. talking with locals about hillside high above Kata of all nationalities and races, including Indian TV comedian Of course, it helps that the city is also surrounded by nature as their stories and the Beach – catch the sunset Navin Prabhakar, a Texas-based Ska band called Navin's well as having rich culture and fantastic food.” history of the surrounding views of the Andaman Thermos, and NaVin wine from Slovakia. navinproduction.com villages. My favourite MINTED GOLD Sea – Santosa features a restaurant right now is a The Thai Red Cross raw- and vegetarian-centric little street-side place on Society will sell minted eatery, a juice bar, eight coins to raise funds Soi Dinso across from city for Chulalongkorn colon-hydrotherapy rooms hall. Some of the best tom Hospital. Reserve (if that’s your thing), a yung goong in the city.”- them at Kasikorn, Thai herbal-steam sauna and Commercial, Bangkok Dan Fraser, co-founder and Krung Thai banks. a plunge-style ice-bath. and director of Smiling santosaphuket.com Albino adventure tours

98 FAHTHAI THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 PATTAYA FREQUENCY 1 flight per day from Phuket., 1 flight from Samui THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 KOH SAMUI FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations FAHTHAI 99 THE GUIDE thailand FREE-FALLING IN THE GULF OF SIAM DAY-AFTER SERENITY IN PHUKET THE GUIDE thailand

KOH SAMUI 1:45pm free-divers fresh from the depths. Koh Tao, Gulf of Thailand One last gulp of air and I descend the line. The world is again quiet. “I’m holding the float line looking Without the complication of heavy Caught in back at the tropical island. There is scuba equipment and techniques, I a slight swell at the surface. I focus glide effortlessly into the deep blue. a moment on my breath, relax and feel my Reaching the end of the float line, I heartbeat slow down in preparation. sit and watch the life aquatic in awe. I tune out the distant long-tail – Diving fanatic Tony Arman, Koh engines and the chatter of fellow Samui. apneatotal.com

LIFE AQUATIC

Until 28 February the Bangpakong River is home to the Kham Dolphin Festival. Visitors flock here to get a glimpse of rare Irrawaddy species. Don't miss the famous sea bass served at local restaurants.

100 FAHTHAI THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 PHUKET FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 SUKHOTHAI FREQUENCY 2 flights per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 101 THE GUIDE thailand TOP THAI DJ'S TOUR OF SAMUI'S BEST NIGHTLIFE THE GUIDE thailand

MY ISLAND HOME Nakadia's Chaweng midnight sets draw huge hometown crowds

NIGHTMOVES

KOH SAMUI

Top three spots on Samui for a top night out? My Samui For a great night out Chaweng is the place to be. My favorite place is Cha Cha Moon, a stylish club Perhaps Thailand’s most on the beach with deep house and techno tunes. Only a few metres away on the main road, Solo internationally renowned DJ, Bar offers party action every night while the late Nakadia has played sets to crowds of night meeting point is Sound Club – a super modern almost 10,000. Now based between Ibiza-style club that thousands can pack into.

Berlin and Samui, the effervescent And where do you go to relax? musician talks to Fah Thai ahead of My favorite ‘secret’ beaches are located between her hectic three-month Asia tour Chaweng and Lamai. I love the bay of Chaweng Noi – the beach is a bit difficult to access but this is the best place to swim. The most romantic beach How has Samui changed over the years? Tell us about Samui’s music scene? for me is Coral Cove Bay. When I want to spoil I was born and grew up in Khonburi in the east of When you are on a tropical island, there is no better my body, I go to Eranda Spa at the north end of Thailand. I moved to Samui in 2002 when I started place to party then the beach! No indoor club can Chaweng. Surrounded by beautiful trees this is a Djing. In the past 13 years Samui has changed a lot! provide the feeling you get being next to the sea. We little paradise within paradise. Ten years ago tourists were mostly on a budget – had some years when most of the parties happened today Samui is very stylish and a bit of a celebrity on Koh Phangan and Samui was a bit forgotten. Where do you spend your day off on the island? destination. Every time I land at the airport I feel But since 2013 Samui clubbing has developed, My sets normally start at 12am and end a lot later. like I’m arriving home. with more variety and better quality bringing savvy Afterwards the place to go would be Sound Club. clubbers to the island. Bangkok on the other hand Sunday is normally my day off and I like to go for What inspired you to start DJing? is developing so quick that it’s hard to keep up – it's an afternoon drink at Secret Garden in Bar Rak. On my first visit to Europe in 2002, I went to a the clubbing capital of South East Asia. Each week they have live music played by some German club and saw a girl rocking it out on the great bands, there is a delicious BBQ and a chilled turntables. I decided it was for me and took some What food to you indulge in on Samui? atmosphere right on the beach. For me it’s the turntables back to Thailand. I then moved to Samui Seafood! I eat fish just about every day I am on perfect place to wind down after a busy weekend. and started practicing. Koh Samui is a very popular Samui. My favorite spot for a great meal is the holiday destination for music industry professionals, family-run Mitra in Chaweng for excellent, cheap Nakadia will play in Singapore, Bangkok and around so eventually some of them heard me play and street food and seafood. For a more luxurious affair, Asia throughout January and February with a weekly invited me to their clubs around the world. Without I’d recommend Ocean 11 in Ban Rak. It’s hard to Tuesday night gig beachside at Chaweng’s Cha Cha Samui my career would not have been possible. find but worth making the effort. Moon. nakadia.com

104 FAHTHAI THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 SUKHOTHAI FREQUENCY 2 flightS per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 105 THE GUIDE thailand RALPH & LUCKY: BOXING BUDDIES; SAMUI'S BEST BREAKKIES ISLAND BEATS; VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL; QUIETER BEACHES OF SAMUI THE GUIDE thailand

KOH SAMUI KOH SAMUI The two of us Breakfast club

alph Beale and his team have been teaching muay thai on Samui since 1989. For Beale, Samui boasts a bevy of topnotch this popular form of Thai boxing is a way of life – he’s worked tirelessly over the years to eateries, acclaimed hotel restaurants promote the sport as a cultural tradition and he’s now at the forefront of a bid for it to be and tasty Thai street food fare. What recognised as an Olympic Sport. Tawatchai Budsadee, or ‘Lucky’, moved to Samui as a Rchild. He’s one of Thailand’s best-known fighters and an admired trainer. lamaimuaythaicamp.com better time to feast on the island’s culinary delights that the island's breezy mornings? Here are three different breakfasts to try

GOURMET DELIGHTS Sala Samui steps up to the grand hotel challenge by offering an extensive à la carte breakfast menu, mixing things up with a smaller menu of changing ‘daily delights’. A highlight at Sala is the pan fried chorizo-infused brioche that comes topped with a runny, slow-cooked duck egg and sweet tomato jam – delicious. For the sweet tooths there are mango, mint and chocolate crepes with fresh coconut and Thai basil. The breakfast buffet also includes RALPH: LUCKY: spicy somtam, Vietnamese pho and shavings of cured cold “We’ve known Lucky since he was a child “I knew I wanted be a muay thai fighter cuts and European cheeses. salaresorts.com/samui and it’s been a long road. Naturally, a fighter’s when I was five-years-old. My father took emotions are up and down and it’s not always me to a fight and made me believe I could LOCAL COMFORT easy. Lucky is worth it. He’s very skilled do it. After he died, I had to move on to Don’t ever miss a bowl of Thai breakfast staple jok (rice technically and expresses himself well with Koh Samui. I soon met Ralph and he helped porridge). Similar to Chinese-style congee, this soothing, guests of all ages. Not all fighters can teach so take care of me. I was 11-years-old and hearty rice soup is made of short-grain rice cooked until he’s lucky and that’s why we call him that – he didn’t have any food – or money – and it achieves a thick consistency similar to oatmeal. Jok can can articulate techniques he has perfected, he helped me to go to school and live my be served with pork meatballs, shrimp or as a simple helping others to learn . We also call him this dream of being a professional muay thai vegetarian option. You may be offered an egg and extra because he’s like a Samui cat: he’s got nine fighter. I trained and worked hard and have ginger and parsley to add spice. If you wake up early on lives and always bounces back. Most people now travelled all over the world competing Samui, you can see jok stalls around the island, packed start watching muay thai moves on Youtube in England, Germany, Poland, Scotland… with locals enjoying a quick breakfast before work. and then realise there is so much more to and that’s in many ways thanks to him. learn. They come to our camp to work with Now I train the guests. I believe it is my HEALTHY OPTION experienced Thai trainer. I have always loved job to make everyone relax, have fun, get For a very virtuous breakfast, June’s Art Café in Bophut has Samui and its natural environment. It feels like fit and enjoy this sport. My favourite thing you sorted from 9:30am every day. It’s all about whole home. People new to Asia complain about the about living on Samui is the mornings here. foods, superfoods and the healthy options here. Vegans infrastructure, but I remember power cuts and I wake up extremely early and take the can replace eggs with scrambled tofu and there are gluten candles when I was growing up in London. It’s guests running on Lamai beach. It’s tough free alternatives to the delicious whole-wheat loaves June progressing [here] and that is what counts.” but everybody loves it.” bakes. juneartcafe.com

106 FAHTHAI THAILAND COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB32 = US$1 UDON THANI FREQUENCY 3 flights per day from Bangkok HOT TIP Head to the fashion stalls (sections two and three) at Bangkok's Chatuchak Weekend Market for original threads. Many a famous Thai label was launched here. FAHTHAI 107 THE GUIDE thailand FAH THAI’S TROPICAL SHINDIG AT SAMUI’S CAFÉ ZAZEN BEACH-LOVER'S GUIDE TO LAMAI; SAMUI CAFES THE GUIDE thailand

LIGHT'S ON (Clockwise) Lamai beach; Rock Salt's scallops; Walking Cafe Street; Kasbah Culture

KOH SAMUI

We review two of Samui ’ s cosiest cafés, hand picked for fresh, buttery pastries and great coffee

VILLA CHOCOLAT For exquisite hand-made Chocolate truffles and a dose of European culture, visit this elegant tea-room which doubles as a ballet school. Belgian-owned, the coffee is strong and a KOH SAMUI favourite of expats. So too are the Chantilly swans, truffles and gooey fondant Neighbourhood Guide: Lamai chocolate cake. Jazz and ballet classes are given by With its powder-white beach, gentrification has swept over this former backpacker town – former ballerina Isabelle Ponet. Find this little oasis Samui’s second biggest – and it’s now flush with plush hotels and stylish eateries. by turning off at the Wat Samret temple between KASBAH MARRAKECH with all things organic, superfood-y and pad thai, grilled seafood and sweet, Hua Thanon and Nathorn. RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE sustainable. Come here for hand-made sticky Thai desserts along with great 33/2 Moo 2 Tambo Maret, At this Moroccan eatery, atmospheric souvenirs, all-natural soaps and health live music. Lamai Beach Soi 4 Lamai, Samui. tea lights and the intense Majorelle supplies. Thai owners Best and Benji cobalt-blue design evoke the medinas serve up wholesome salads, surprisingly ROCK SALT FRENCH BAKERY of Marrakech. Take a culinary tour tasty raw desserts and virtuous veggie This new restaurant at Crystal Bay Your next croissant is through north Africa’s rich flavours: juices in all hues of the rainbow. Yacht Club Beach Resort is helmed by never far away thanks to there’s an array of aromatic tagines samuihealthshop.com UK chef David Lloyd. His training Le Fabrique’s two French – we rate the slow cooked lamb ground in Michelin-starred London boulangeries on the island. with saccharine, caramelised prunes WALKING STREET kitchens is obvious in the innovative, Lamai’s outlet is the more and apricots and the fish stewed in Enjoy the bustle of Lamai’s weekly organic Brit cuisine dished up at bustling of the bunch but chermoula and cumin served in clay market, locally dubbed the Lamai Jai Rock Salt. On Sundays, Lloyd serves we prefer the quainter pots. Cap the meal off with a palate- Dee or ‘walking street’. From 4pm up delicious lamb and suckling pig Chaweng café – a cosy and cleansing pot of mint tea. kasbah- every Sunday the main road between roasts and seafood banquets but in comfortable alternative to marrakech.com the market and the bridge is closed for the mornings be sure not to miss the the soulless coffee chains traffic and the street fills with vendors signature salt beef hash – home-cured in the area. Set up your SAMUI HEALTH SHOP selling cute handicrafts and tourist nick- brisket, onions, potatoes, egg and hot laptop with free wifi and One of Lamai’s best-kept secrets is the knacks along with the enticing waft of sauce. Located in picturesque Thong munch away on a crunchy, Samui Health Shop, inside the Lamphu food cooked up at smoky street carts. Takian Bay, Rock Salt has a beachy tiki warm baguette. facebook. Health Café and stocked to the brim This is the place to sample wok-tossed bar atmosphere. rocksaltsamui.com com/lafabriquesamui

108 FAHTHAI BIG DAY Her Majesty Queen Sirikit's birthday is on 12 August, which is also Mother's Day in Thailand. It's a public holiday and a chance to honour the royal matriarch. HOT TIP Bargaining with shop vendors is expected and can be fun. But remember to smile: you'll get a better deal. Thai merchants do not respond well to aggressive, loud tactics. FAHTHAI 109 THE GUIDE thailand ROMANCE ON THE ISLAND; NEW WINING & DINING THE GUIDE thailand

KOH SAMUI

In the mood for love

Both loved and loathed around the globe, Valentines Day can be a fun time to revel in romance and all things kitsch. Fah Thai asks one of Samui’s top wedding planners, Jacqui Ashley, to reveal the best spots for sweethearts

UP THAT HILL Take in pristine jungle, secret waterfalls, villages, coconut plantations A SPA IN THE CAVES A PRIVATE CRUISE DINING IN THE TREES and loads “A visit to Tamarind Springs day spa “I can’t think of anything more romantic “Inside lush, luxury eatery at Anantara of tropical flowers on would be the ideal start for a romantic than to sail from Samui to the Angthong Lawana resort each of the treetop dining a hike along Valentine’s Day treat. The spa is set Marine Park atop the deck of a luxury platforms offer complete privacy for Samui’s Maenam in lush tropical gardens and offers yacht like the Naga. It’s here you can couples to enjoy an intimate, moonlit trail. The the ultimate in privacy for a couple’s really indulge – think lots of champagne meal overlooking Samui's shimmering 11km walk starts above pampering session. Start with a steam and a lunch prepared by a private chef. seas. It's not just the setting that is Maenam package and spend the day together The crew really understand the need for spectacular – the menu (think fiery beach and relaxing in the rock pools and herbal privacy. Stay overnight in a traditional curries and fresh seafood cooked with weaves down south to steam caves. Follow this with a teak cabin and enjoy a romantic lemongrass and other Thai herbs and Lamai. It takes soothing massage and you will leave candle-lit dinner under the stars or sail spices) is award-winning Cap it off with three hours but you’ll be feeling relaxed, refreshed ad loved up.” back into Samui as the sun slips away.” a romantic walk on the beach – bliss.” rewarded with tamarindsprings.com boutiqueyachting.com awana-chaweng.anantara.com striking views

Picasso, a newcomer to Maenem's KOH SAMUI KOH SAMUI dining scene, has already been selected as one of Thailand's top new eateries by Tatler Thailand. The petite French bistro features a Creative cocktails Gallic flair small menu by chef Cyril Ichac with Super-stylish Chaweng boutique hotel The Library joined the ranks of some a focus on hearty French cuisine. of the world’s most innovative resorts when it snared Design Hotel listing. Favourites so far have been classic Perched outside on Chaweng Beach Road is the hotel’s tapas and cocktail bar, dishes like a tournedos charolais Drink Gallery. It’s a lavish space, with baroque chandeliers and a communal (a beef dish from Burgundy served dining table. They’ve recently launched a range of fun new cocktails. “My Thai” with saffron rice) and an osso is a Siamese take on the Polynesian classic, made with rum, Triple Sec, almond bucco bourguignon with slow- syrup, pineapple juice, bitters and Thai chilli. Just as fabulous is the “Sherbet cooked veal so tender it falls off the Dose and Salmon in a Blanket” a gin, fresh orange juice, lime, vanilla syrup and fork. picassosamui.com bitters potion served alongside tasty salmon rolls. thelibrary.co.th

110 FAHTHAI DRINK THIS Just in time for your new year's health kick, Juice Queen Samui are now delivering their organic cold-pressed juices around the island. juice-queen.com FAHTHAI 111 THE GUIDE thailand LITTLE-KNOWN, ANCIENT SITES OF MYANMAR LISTED BY UNESCO

SACRED STONE THE GUIDE Ancient brick THE GUIDE edifices, bas reliefs and sculptures of Myanmar Myanmar the Pyu Kingdoms Heritage hotels in Yangon, Mandalay’s jesters; Myanmar’s punk band goes international, off-the-radar ancient sites; the Mandalay day trips best shopping in Yangon

DID YOU KNOW?

Launched in 2013, the Yoma Yangon international marathon returns on 11 January. While Yangon’s flat topography will no doubt please many entrants, you Relic hunters can expect competition from buses, In June, three little-known cars and ancient cities became the first bicycles – in addition to the Myanmar sites to be inscribed on thousands of competitors. the UNESCO World Heritage List, beating established attractions such makes it a fascinating day trip. Unlike Sri Ksetra, YANGON as the temples of Bagan. Sri Ksetra, the majority of Beikthano’s residents lived outside SRI KSETRA the city walls, and no evidence of Buddhist Beikthano and Hanlin were major About five hours northwest of Yangon near the influence has been found to date. The city grew cities during the Pyu era, a thousand- town of Pyay, Sri Ksetra is the largest and most from the 1st century BC to 5th century AD, when year period that ended with the rise accessible of the three Pyu cities. Its centrepiece is its palace was burned to the ground by an invading of Bagan in the 11th century the Bawbawgyi Pagoda, a cylindrical stupa that army, likely from Sri Ksetra. served as a prototype for the early pagodas at Bagan, but other highlights include the Rahanta MANDALAY aining recognition on the list isn't an cave temple and the remains of the city walls. These easy feat – there are less than 1000 walls encompass more than 1400 acres – unlike HANLIN sites inscribed worldwide. The three Bagan, Sri Ksetra contained paddy fields within its Evidence of human settlement at Hanlin has Gsites reveal the Pyu Kingdoms that city limits, enabling it to withstand extended sieges. been traced back more than 4000 years, but it flourished for over 1,000 years between 200 BC wasn’t until the first century AD that it became a and 900 AD. The partly excavated landmarks prominent Pyu city – the largest until surpassed by NAY PYI TAW sit in vast irrigated terrain in the dry zone of the Sri Ksetra around the 8th century. Several hours Ayeyarwady River basin and palace citadels, burial BEIKTHANO north of Mandalay, it is strategically located on grounds and early industrial production sites The smallest but perhaps best excavated of the fertile plains between the Ayeyarwady and Mu have all been unearthed. Despite their historical three sites, Beikthano receives just a handful of rivers. Artefacts from the area – silver coins, gold significance, the Pyu Ancient Cities remain largely foreign visitors – the Ministry of Culture recently necklaces, pottery and stone inscriptions – are unexplored by both travellers and archaeologists – estimated the number at a few dozen a year. Its housed in a small site museum, while skeletons lie

TEXT: THOMAS KEAN AND DENE-HERN CHEN; IMAGES: WORLD MONUMENTS FUND MONUMENTS WORLD THOMAS KEAN AND DENE-HERN CHEN; IMAGES: TEXT: all the better for having the sites all to yourself. proximity to the capital Nay Pyi Taw, however, in situ in an excavated cemetery.

112FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations MYANMAR COUNTRY CODE +95 EXCHANGE RATE MMK992 = US$1 YANGON FREQUENCY 4 flights per day from Bangkok, 4 flights per week from Chiang Mai FAHTHAI 113 THE GUIDE thailand SAMUI’S TOP DJ, RETRO REST STOP IN BANGKOK, CHIANG MAI JAZZ YANGON ANTIQUE GEMS; MANDALAY'S BEST NEW EATERIES THE GUIDE myanmar

MANDALAY

GOLD TREASURE Glittery jewels and Hot in here ornate handicrafts can be found at Nandawun While Relaxed Chinese-style Hot plates barbecue dining has become a popular eating option across Myanmar: Despite being Myanmar’s second- largest city, trendy bars and restaurants have always been thin on the ground in Mandalay – but that is slowly beginning to change. YANGON Here are two new establishments Shop ’til you drop leading the charge GINKI KIDS BISTRO AT 82ND The original incarnation Under the leadership of of this drinking den former Strand Hotel chef Myanmar’s exciting mix of history and culture make exploring antique is located close to Renato Buhlmann, this shops a fun way to step back in time. In Yangon, unearth traditional Yangon’s Golden Valley fine eatery has raised the handicrafts, century-old teak furniture and colonial-era ephemera and comes festooned bar for European fare with ’90s grunge and in Mandalay quite a few Beatles posters. Ginki notches since it opened AUGUSTINE'S ANTIQUES and delivered in just a few days. has now made the six months ago. Despite Augustine’s has been the go-to for antiques in Yankin Road, near the corner of Maegin Road, trip north to Mandalay the high-end cuisine – Yangon since it was established way back in Yankin Township and it’s proving just as expect to find truffles, 1978. While prices have risen in recent years due popular with expats and chorizo or gourmet to demand from the growing number of expats, BOGYOKE AUNG SAN MARKET locals as the original. The polish sausage on your you can still find bargains among the furniture, The city’s main market is home to a number of menu is almost identical plate – Bistro at 82nd lacquer ware, wooden statues, porcelain, and antique shops, with everything from old swords – Thai, Chinese and a (pictured below) has a silver, brass and copper objects. to kerosene lanterns. A clutch of them also sell smattering of Western comfortable atmosphere No 23(a) Attiyar St, Thirimingalar Rd, Kamaryut ethnic minority fabrics that you are unlikely to and Indian dishes – but and is reasonably priced Township find outside remote villages in Chin or Kachin the setting is a little more for the quality of the states. Bogyoke Aung San Road, Pabedan Township flash. The drinks – cold grub, much of which you NANDAWUN MYANMAR GEMS & beer and zesty cocktails, won’t find elsewhere in HANDICRAFT CENTRE CHARLIE best enjoyed in the Mandalay. Drinks have Rather than antiques, Nandawun specialises in This ramshackle shop near the bustling garden – are as cheap as not been overlooked – new, but aged handicrafts, most of which are Shwegonedaing Junction is jam-packed full of ever. Expect to pay the for a special treat, try the made in small workshops in Mandalay – find colonial- and socialist-era artefacts. The many equivalent of just a few homemade ginger beer. everything from marionettes and wall hangings gems include stacks of 78s records from Burmese dollars. Corner of 71st 82nd Street, between to jewellery. The upstairs of this renovated artists (as well as the gramophones to play them) and 28th streets 30th and 31st mansion also features antique books, although and a cabinet full of vintage camera equipment. most are for display only. No 17, Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd, Bahan Township Corner of Ahlone and Baho roads, Ahlone Township CHINDITS FURNITURE U HMAT GYI While the furniture and other wooden objects Run by the friendly Ko Aung, the modest- at Chindits are new, they are all made from looking shopfront at U Hmat Gyi hides a reclaimed teak – much of it taken from treasure trove of antique furniture, some more demolished colonial-era buildings. Chindits than a century old and nearly all made from combines history and sustainability together

MAIN IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES MAIN IMAGE: prized teak. All purchases are tastefully restored with quality craftsmanship. burmachindits.com

114FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations MYANMAR COUNTRY CODE +95 EXCHANGE RATE MMK992 = US$1 MANDALAY FREQUENCY 1 flight per day from Bangkok, 3 flights per week from Chiang Mai FAHTHAI 115 TEXT: RITU SOM (MUMBAI, DHAKA) AND SARAH HARVEY (MALDIVES) HARVEY AND SARAH DHAKA) (MUMBAI, RITU SOM TEXT: THE GUIDE thailand SAMUI’S TOP DJ, RETRO REST STOP IN BANGKOK, CHIANG MAI JAZZ MANDALAY'S FAMED MOUSTACHE BROTHERS THE GUIDE myanmar

Hot in here

While Relaxed Chinese-style barbecue dining has become a popular eating option across Myanmar: Myanmar’s

Funnymen STAND UP Comedians Lu Maw and Lu Zaw see themselves as “hot potatoes” This comedy troupe provided fascinating insight to Myanmar’s political past. After the death of one member, the remaining duo have vowed to keep the show going strong

onsider a Burmese joke from the 1950s: A very ill man goes to see the doctor. The doctor says that he has the flu and prescribes him a shot. However, the Csyringe is filled only with water and the horrified patient questions his diagnosis. “No problem,” the doctor assures him. “I have a license to kill, just like the military government.” Such gallows humour is typical of a trio known as the Moustache Brothers, an activist-comedy troupe based in Mandalay. Myanmar was ruled for five decades by an authoritarian military regime – with freedom of speech severely restricted, Lu Maw, his cousin Lu Zaw and Moustache frontman stint in prison in 1996, when he was sentenced with donning a police hat during a recent performance. Par Par Lay became well-known for pointed hard labour. The beloved comedian later suffered “That’s why we don’t call this a hat; we call it a political satire. Coupled with songs and dances, kidney disease and passed away in August 2013. donation box,” he cracks, with a pearly grin. the Moustache Brothers toured their variety show “My brother was very brave,” Lu Maw says. “It The performance is staged nightly in an intimate across upper Myanmar’s festivals and celebrations was hard labour that killed him.” space at their home, which is cluttered with in the 1950s. Today, Lu Maw and Lu Zaw keep the show nostalgia from the trio’s travelling hey-days. The “The army always gave us warnings,” Lu Maw going. Lu Maw had already honed the show into a perseverance of the two remaining “brothers” has a recalls. “But the order goes in one ear, and comes two-man act during his brother’s prison terms, yet pay-off, said Lu Maw. “The government can’t touch out the other like water off a duck’s back.” Par Par Lay is continually referenced throughout us. We are hot potatoes [because] journalists and Par Par Lay, a fervent supported of Aung San the performance, giving the sense that his spirit tourists come to see us.” Suu Kyi, the pro-democracy leader of Myanmar’s is always near. Armed with a love for idioms and The Moustache Brothers and their family also opposition party, would serve three jail terms puns, Lu Maw now cracks jokes comparing the educate tourists on traditional Burmese culture, and between 1990 and 2007 for his jokes at the military current civilian government with the previous provide some insight to modern Myanmar. “One regime’s expense. Lu Maw believes that Par Par military regime. “Nowadays, there’s only one good hour sitting here, you will know everything that

TEXT: DENE-HERN CHEN ; MAIN IMAGE: MICHAEL BUCKLEY; SMALLER IMAGES: GETTY AND DENE-HERN CHEN SMALLER IMAGES: MICHAEL BUCKLEY; DENE-HERN CHEN ; MAIN IMAGE: TEXT: Lay’s health was never the same after his second job where there is good money,” Lu Maw says, happens here,” Lu Maw says, winking impishly.

116FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations MYANMAR COUNTRY CODE +95 EXCHANGE RATE MMK992 = US$1 NAY PYI TAW FREQUENCY 5 flights per week from Bangkok FAHTHAI 117 TEXT: RITU SOM (MUMBAI, DHAKA) AND SARAH HARVEY (MALDIVES) HARVEY AND SARAH DHAKA) (MUMBAI, RITU SOM TEXT: THE GUIDE myanmar INSIDE YANGON'S NEW ARTISTIC SPACE MANDALAY DAY TRIPS; LIVE MUSIC IN NAY PYI TAW THE GUIDE myanmar

FINE ART Myanmar Deitta aims to be a hub for regional Bottoms photographers up

From bars to beer stalls, Myanmar’s nightlife is blossoming YANGON GOLF CLUB Established in 1909, YANGON Yangon Golf Club was virtually an all-European 19TH STREET ARTISTRY affair until 1954, when It’s tough to beat this spot civil servant U Cho in the city’s Chinatown became the club captain. district. Perched outside Times have changed, in the evening air, thankfully, and the drinking cheap beers and club now welcomes snacking on barbecued anyone to enjoy its 18 bites while taking in SEE THE SIGHTS undulating holes. A pony cart in the local colour – it just Inwa; walk across doesn’t get much better. the U Bein Bridge in Amarapura 19th St

MANDALAY YANGON INWA SAGAING HUNTER'S Day 1 Though Inwa was the 4 Another short-lived Until recently, Mandalay royal capital for nearly 400 royal capital, this time in had few drinking spots Downtown: Capturing Yangon on film trippin’ years, just a few hints of its the 14th century, Sagaing that could be described grandeur remain. The brick- is today better known for as Western-style. Enter The recent relaxation of censorship people together who are working in photography, focus for you. Are young photographers really and-stucco Me Nu Ok Kyaung the dozens of Buddhist Hunter’s, which opened film, and visual and print journalism, so the more looking at documentary photography as a possible monastery, built in 1822, is monasteries that dot its last year and has quickly and a blossoming arts scene has people we can have in here sharing the space, career path? the highlight. The area is best low hills. become the go-to place inspired many to take up the craft the more connections we can make. The original I think it’s still not yet widely seen as a career MANDALAY explored via pony cart. for members of the expat of photography and, importantly, project [Witness Yangon] has grown during the choice but there are a lot more chances now to MINGUN community. year it’s been open. We’ve hosted workshops, find work. It’s generally people who are interested AMARAPURA More than 50m high, 27th St (between 80th given them an outlet for their work Those looking to head out of 5 film screenings, and it’s built up so much that we in the visuals of photography, maybe have gotten Mandalay to sample the region’s 2 Established as the capital the unfinished Mingun and 81st Sts) needed to be downtown and find a larger space hold of a camera and enjoy taking pictures, but in 1783, Amarapura’s time in Pagoda towers over a village n December 2012, expat photographer Matt that’s more specifically catered for what we want they have more of an analytical mind and taking rich history and culture have a the spotlight was brief. Today, with the same name. The NAY PYI TAW Grace opened the city’s first documentary to do. Deitta is a Pali word that basically means to pictures is not enough, they want to go further. range of places to choose from it’s the picturesque U Bein pagoda started cracking and photography-focused gallery, Witness witness something. Bridge rather than its royal crumbling on virtually the BREEZE BAR Yangon Documentary Arts Space, to support With no formal training schools, how do they learn? history that draws thousands same day that construction There’s a lot to like about buddingI photojournalists through workshops and Besides the aesthetic appeal, why downtown? I really think that exposure is how people become of local and foreign visitors. stopped in 1819. Breeze, starting with exhibitions. Renamed Myanmar Deitta, it has just In order to make it financially sustainable we need interested. I mean, there are no libraries here, the the simple yet stylish opened in a newly renovated colonial-era building people coming into the gallery all the time, maybe internet connection makes it difficult to look at PYIN OO LWIN MONYWA décor, nightly live music, in downtown Yangon. Fah Thai talks to Grace having a small coffee shop, selling prints. Basically photos online and there aren’t photojournalism 3 The cool mountain air 6 The main attraction here extensive menu and smart about the country’s photographic talent: we want foot traffic – tourists, freelancers, people magazines. So things like exhibitions, where of the Shan Hills encouraged is the nearby Po Win Taung service. The large yet working in downtown – to be able to drop in. Our people can go along and see this work and find the British to make it their hills, which are riddled with intimate outdoor dining What is the underlying purpose of Myanmar Deitta? first exhibition will be as part of the Yangon Photo out about photographers and the stories, I think summer capital in the early almost 500 cave temples – area is perfect for groups, Everything we do is “storytelling” – it could be Festival in February. that’s a really important thing for Myanmar if it 20th century. Colonial-era many with colourful murals couples or solo travellers. documentary, photojournalism, but it’s always got wants to develop young artists and that’s what we architecture and nearby that were carved between the Sein Pan Pyar Rd, to have a story behind it. The whole idea is to get As well as hosting exhibitions, training is a big want to do here deitta.org waterfalls shouldn’t be missed. 14th and 18th centuries. Pyinmana

118 FAHTHAI THE YANGON PHOTO FESTIVAL'S THEME THIS YEAR IS LOVE . IT RUNS FROM 9-28 FEBRYARY , HELD AT THE INSTITUTE FRANCAIS. YANGONPHOTO.COM (MALDIVES) HARVEY AND SARAH DHAKA) (MUMBAI, RITU SOM TEXT: MYANMAR COUNTRY CODE +95 EXCHANGE RATE MMK966 = US$1 NAY PYI TAW FREQUENCY 5 flights per week FAHTHAI 122 THE GUIDE thailand ACCLAIMED ARTIST'S GUIDE TO CAMBODIA'S CAPITAL THE GUIDE Cambodia & Laos New boutique hotels in Phnom Penh; Temple camping road- tested; Vientiane dished up

CHECK IT OUT

Until 20 January Ali's Buddhist Bug CITY GUIDE (left) will be Artist Anida Youe on show at Ali tells us what Siem Reap art inspires her about gallery 1961; her hometown, after this she Phnom Penh. will head to Singaporel DID YOU KNOW for a live performance Say chi at the Malay Exercise Heritage may not be Centre, a major part wriggling out of Myanmar from Sultan culture but Mosque. early risers the1961.com can join in the tai chi fun at Inya Lake, where “I moved here, to live, in 2011 attempt to capture a quickly Gallery. I have lunch at Java Café hundreds gather each –and founded the artist-run changing Cambodian landscape. to see the latest exhibition there. morning from media lab Studio Revolt – but On the same street as Java, I will around 5am to welcome I actually came to visit for the “Phnom Penh is an international take them to the Reading Room PEPPER PUNCH the day Traditional Khmer first time in 2004 at the age of city with a small town feel. I inside the Documentation Center with some food uses pepper, 30. I discovered a culture rich in am living and working here of Cambodia. Around the corner rather than chilli, peaceful to add spice stretching. arts, music and dance. Instead because the city has inspired so from there, we swing by Meta of thinking about the near much of my work. My projects, House then go across the street decimation of Khmer arts [in often ambitious in scale, can be to SaSa Art Projects inside the the wake of the Khmer Rouge realised here at a nominal cost. It crumbling White Building. Along genocide], I felt something makes me feel like my dreams are the way pick up a cold drink STRAND HOTEL GOVERNOR’S RESIDENCE KANDAWGYI PALACE HOTEL wondrous was emerging. That attainable. I love the riverfront from a local street-side stand Constructed in 1903 by the Located in the city’s leafy Recently given a light trip in 2004 changed my life. area, the tuk tuk rides, the fresh – either a sweet iced coffee or Armenian Sarkies brothers – diplomatic quarter, the touch-up by new owners There’s a palpable energy here markets and the extremely sugar cane drink. The final stop of Raffles Hotel fame – the Governor’s Residence is run by Htoo Group, the Kandawgyi and it’s the young generation that friendly people. For most of the would be in the archives at either Heritage PHNOM PENH Strand was the centre of expat the Orient Express group but Palace Hotel remains is propelling Cambodia forward. year the sky is a perfect blue hue Bophana Audiovisual Resource social life in Yangon during the in no way resembles a cookie- one of the city’s premier with some of the most amazing Centre [founded by director colonial era but later fell into cutter chain hotel. Almost a establishments, blending “At the heart of my work is an cloud formations I have ever Rithy Panh]. In the evening, heart disrepair. Tastefully renovated century old, the teak mansion both the old and new My city interest in developing stories that seen! I do not enjoy the chaotic the FCC Mansion behind the in the early 1990s, the Strand was once a residence for the seamlessly. Looking out Anida Yoeu Ali is one of Cambodia’s exist outside of conventions. The traffic or monsoonal floods. famous riverfront FCC bar is a YANGON retains its historical charm and governor of far-flung Kayah over Kandawgyi Lake – also Buddhist Bug [one of Ali's most perfect pit stop for drinks, lounge has few peers in Yangon. The State but was renovated in the known as Royal Lake – it most internationally successful artists enigmatic projects] is a creation “I always take my visitors on music and a walk through the Three hotels that show off both bar remains a popular hangout late 1990s. Mixing traditional was once a rowing club and “ political agitators ”. She is first inspired by a personal inability a daylong tour of the art scene remnants of some gorgeous the city’s past and present for residents and tourists alike, and colonial-style architecture, and then the Museum of generation Muslim Khmer, born in to reconcile my diasporic identity here. I usually begin with the colonial architecture, or we head particularly during the Friday it boasts 48 rooms and a highly Natural History (in case and a fascination with Buddhism National Museum then walk to Eclipse Sky Bar in the Phnom evening happy hour. regarded fine-dining restaurant. you are wondering why Cambodia and raised in Chicago. alongside my upbringing as a along the ‘commercial’ gallery Penh Tower for terrific vistas.”

hotelthestrand.com governorsresidence.com there’s a dinosaur statue in 2014 C-PRINT, ALI, DIGITAL YOEU ANIDA PRINTS: CLAIRE KNOX; TEXT: Khmer Muslim woman and an lane on Street 178 up to Romeet studio-revolt.com

120 FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations CAMBODIA COUNTRY CODE +855 EXCHANGE RATE KHR4,000 = US$1 PHNOM PENH FREQUENCY 5 flights per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 121 THE GUIDE thailand SAMUI’S TOP DJ, RETRO REST STOP IN BANGKOK, CHIANG MAI JAZZ ROADTESTED: TEMPLE GLAMPING; BEST NEW BOUTIQUE HOTELS THE GUIDE cambodia & laos

UNIQUE BOUTIQUE The Teahouse foyer (main) and garden (right); Tomb Zing's modern Rock rooms (left) Raider on SIEM REAP

“Yes, the majesty of Angkor Wat can certainly hold up YANGON against the scores of travellers you need to share it with but to explore Angkorian-era temples without the DJ nakadia at dreamers crowds, head to the majestic, 12th century ruins of Banteay Chhmar, a World Heritage Site. We set off early PHNOM PENH from Siem Reap town, travelling through lush green rice fields and arrived at the temple’s sandstone walls Designer digs just in time for a lunch of tasty Cambodian classics like fter slogging away in Myanmar’s bai sach chrouk (barbequed pork and rice) and samlor music scene for more than a decade, A flurry of new boutique hotels have opened in Cambodia’s macho trey (a sweet and sour fish soup) – ample Side Effect – Darko C, Jozeff K, servings soon burnt off as we channeled our best Lara Tser Htoo and Hein Lwin – have rapidly developing capital. Here are three of the best to try Croft and climbed inside the crumbling walls. As the Aenjoyed an unprecedented level of exposure in sun began to slip away, we returned to find out tents recent years as international audiences have pitched alongside ancient bas-reliefs depicting epic taken to their raw punk rock sound. It hasn’t battle scenes. It was the perfect spot to watch the sky come easy though – the band was only able SIDE EFFECT turn into a gorgeous swirl pinks and oranges over a to play the recent South by Southwest festival few glasses of red wine. For me, the biggest surprise in Austin, Texas, by raising funds through the came inside the tents, which came with carpeted floors, PledgeMusic website. They also play regularly super-soft beds and full bathroom facilities – this was far in Yangon – for details on upcoming shows, from roughing it! Khiri works with nearby villages and check out their Facebook page. facebook. the interaction with the friendly locals was a highlight. com/5ide3ffect The temples are a daily part of life for them and I loved waving hello to people weaving through our campsite en route to the nearby town and playing with local kids in one of the moats. I woke at dawn to the sound of chanting monks – the whole experience felt like a dream, but a brilliant dream.” – Jenny Penas, Fah Thai photo editor. khiri.com

TEAHOUSE SANGKUM ZING With a nifty location just behind Just over one year old, this Opening its doors in December, the magnificent Independence lovely renovated 1960s villa this new hotel boasts a bird’s Tea Monument and boutique- features a modernist design eye view of the colourful Art filled Street 240, this new 52 typical of the swinging, post Deco Phsar Thmei (Central time room tea-themed hotel sports independence hey-day of Market), which you shouldn’t a gorgeous ruby-red foyer and the adored late King Father miss for sweet iced coffees, An integral YANGON NAY PYI TAW MANDALAY dining space, spacious and sleek Norodom Sihanouk. Rooms, steaming bowls of kuy tiev (an rooms and a pretty lush slate which start at USD$55, come aromatic pork noodle soup part of local LUCKY SEVEN KEYSTONE SHWE PYI MOE swimming pool. Connected to decked out in vintage and served for breakfast) and great life, curb side On a quiet downtown side street, For an upmarket take on teashop For sheer scale it’s hard to go past the very popular Plantation and Art Deco furniture, 1960s people-watching. Zing is a very teashops fill Lucky Seven is a Yangon institution. cuisine, head to Keystone at the Shwe Pyi Moe, which offers a Pavilion hotels, the Teahouse’s Cambodian film posters and comfortable and affordable The service is top notch, the food is Junction Square shopping mall. It dazzling array of Myanmar teashop hook is that they host – you other retro touches. There’s a (rooms start at USD$25) these city streets sans MSG and palm oil and the tea has all the usual favourites – the foods in a large open-air setting. guessed it – afternoon tea leafy garden and pool to relax per night) base to explore the nationwide is thick and sweet. Locals head here noodle salad known as nan gyi Mandalay’s proximity to Shan State sessions each Saturday with 30 in and it’s located in the old central part of town. Minimalist for the rice with oil and boiled peas, thoke is particularly popular – but in means this is the ideal place to try varieties and buttery French French Quarter, close to Wat white rooms are lifted with or tamin sisan pe pyote. a Western-style environment. the Shan kaukswe, or noodle salad. pastries. Rooms from USD$44- Phnom temple and excellent violet feature walls and 49th Street, upper block Junction Square. 66th Street, opposite Sedona 118. theteahouse.asia tapas bar Doors. Sangkum.com textileskh.hotelzing.net

122 FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations CAMBODIA COUNTRY CODE +855 EXCHANGE RATE KHR4,000 = US$1 SIEM REAP FREQUENCY 5 flights per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 123 THE GUIDE cambodia & laos RETAIL THERAPY IN LAOS AND CAMBODIA; ELEPHANT CELEBRATION IN LAOS PHNOM PENH'S CHIC NEW EATERY; HISTORICAL HOTELS; BUDDHIST FESTIVAL THE GUIDE cambodia & laos

SIEM REAP What’s POP-UP SHOP ANGKOR LUANG PRABANG New: This fun, brand new boutique is the brainchild of An ode to Shopbop Ingrid Quinn, who arrived in Siem Reap in 2001 yesteryear working with Doctors without Borders. She works Boun Suang with a small team of local designers and craftspeople, CREATION NATION only producing in small quantities to ensure good Pop-Up Angkor's Heua festival Check into three cute and quirky quality and even better working conditions for the goods; Hanger local women creating the wares. Find funky, Scandinavian-style cushions (we This event honouring Buddhist water divinities hotels steeped 44's custom-made moto (below right) love the eye-catching fruit ones), fun Angkor-inspired textiles and other quirky and nagas (serpent deities) is one of the nation’s in history souvenirs ranging from USD$10-200 – even Hollywood starlet Marissa Tomei is most colourful. Held on 17—18 August, during a fan, praising Quinn's “gorgeous prints”. facebook.com/popupshopangkor Laos’ rainy season, when rivers are full and rice PHNOM PENH fields a lush green, Boun Suang Heua draws huge crowds to the Mekong to watch hundreds RAFFLES LE ROYAL PHNOM PENH of traditional wooden longtail boats – each Built in 1929 and HANGER 44 carved from a single tree – adorned with flags reopened in 1997, It’s all about the fixie bicycle in Brooklyn and race along a 2km stretch of river. Beyond the this French colonial Brunswick but in Cambodia it’s the purring, bespoke sporting spectacle, drawcards include craft building has survived motorcycle en vogue. Hanger 44 – a hybrid hipster markets and traditional Laotian food. city-wide changes over bar, motorcycle showroom and boutique – is the the decades. Early on, it latest edition to the flurry of trendy bars that have drew the likes of Charlie recently sprouted in Bassac Lane. Only open in the Chaplin and US First Lady Cambodia has seen a spate of exciting new evenings, it’s the showroom for Moto Cambodge who specialise in bespoke Jackie Kennedy. During the FESTIVAL boutiques and design-driven projects recently motorcycle creations. There’s a chic industrial fit-out to go with your espresso ’70s, war correspondents martini but the showstealer is the black and chrome “sculpture” strung up. stayed here. raffles.com open shop. We spotlight two stylish new Don’t stop at ordering your own shiny custom made 1975 Honda – also pick up ventures in the Kingdom fair-trade leather wallets, wristbands, key rings, surfie t-shirts made by Tonlé and SIEM REAP old school bell helmets. facebook.com/motocambodge AMANSARA This elegant villa was built in 1962 as the guest residence for King LUANG PRABANG PHNOM PENH Norodom Sihanouk. Transformed into a 24-suite retreat, it features Pachyderm party “Rubber” low-slung chalets that fan out around the pool. Laos hasn’t been dubbed ‘the land of a processions, village home-stays, Buddhist soul This is where the Jolie-Pitt million elephants’ for no reason – the ceremonies, outdoor films and music clan is rumoured to stay. moniker harks back to the ancient 14th performances, fireworks and lots of A single-channel video is the centrepiece of amanresorts.com century Laos kingdom of Lan Xang, when revelry. This region of Laos has the largest artist Khvay Samnang’s installation Rubber Man. people believed the creature would bring population of pachyderms nation-wide; The video shows a ghostly, liquid rubber-coated PHNOM PENH LUANG PRABANG great wealth to their country. Ever since on the second day, local mahouts round figure who’s lost amid the deforested surrounds the animal has been sacred to Laotians them up for a day of education sessions of Rattanakiri’s rubber plantations. The work also HOTEL DE LA PAIX and it’s become the country’s national and the crowing of Elephant of the Year. features rusty earth, carvings of dead animals and This place is one of the symbol. For two days in February, more 17-19 February; festival.elefantasia.org replicas of the forest-clearing machines that erase Mekong’s best boutique This airy, bright atelier showcases some of the best, locally than 80,000 ele-adoring Laotians, expats Cuts and cocktails their habitat. Until 12 July. sasabassac.com hotels – a beautifully VIENTIANE produced silk garments you’ll find in the city. If you’re and tourists flock to Sayabouly province restored governor’s struggling to choose from the floaty evening gowns, printed for the country’s annual elephant festival, Tucked down a tiny unnamed alley that runs off Tonlé Bassac’s Street 308 – a mansion built in 1910. Mandarin blouses or mod mini dresses, have your own which aims to raise awareness of the laneway that’s fast becoming one of the city’s most fashionable wining and dining It was made over by Shoptalk: outfit custom-made. The three-year-old boutique has proven protection of the endangered Asian spots – Meat & Drink is the latest offering from expat New Zealand brothers George architect Duangrit Bunnag a hit with tourists eager to see traditional, detailed fabrics elephant – highly susceptible to the and William Norbert-Munns, who opened up slick, speakeasy-style bar Bar.sito. In in 2010. The watchtowers Ministry and textiles reimagined into modern designs – so much so illegal logging and poaching industries. business for just a few months, this chic eatery has already been mentioned in remain from its time of Silk that founder Pany Saignavongs has just announced plans to This eight-year-old event, founded by The New York Times. The menu features casual fare – grilled meats, tasty burgers as a detention centre. open flagship stores in the UK this year. ministryofsilk.com NGO ElefantAsia, sees colourful elephant and salads – and sophisticated cocktails. facebook.com/meatanddrink hoteldelapaixlp.com

124 FAHTHAI LAOS COUNTRY CODE +856 EXCHANGE RATE LAK8,000 = US$1 VIENTIANE REQUENCY 1 flight per day from Bangkok TOP DRINK: New Phnom Penh cafŽ Soul Tease offers guilt-free, hand-blended teas. Try the Bed of Roses, a mix of ginger, rose, lemongrass and lime. 55C St 240 FAHTHAI 125 THE GUIDE thailand SAMUI’S TOP DJ, RETRO REST STOP IN BANGKOK, CHIANG MAI JAZZ FINE DINING IN VIENTIANE; LUSH LAOS RESORT SWEEPS UP TRAVEL AWARDS THE GUIDE cambodia & laos

FINE CUISINE (Clockwise) Aqua's famed steak; Chocdee; Aqua's dining Rock room and ravioli on Best in show YANGON

DJ nakadia at dreamers VIENTIANE BEST BURGER Lush Vang Vieng boutique ??????????ROSS' QUOTE TO GO IN HERE hotel, Riverside Boutique ION THE BURGER Resort has just scooped JOINT ...... on fter slogging away in Myanmar’s label Vickteerut. The up the award for Asia’s music scene for more than a decade, clothes here are more Best Design Hotel at this relaxed but adhere Side Effect – Darko C, Jozeff K, to designer Teerut year’s World Boutique Tser Htoo and Hein Lwin – have and brand director Awards – the first time a Aenjoyed an unprecedented level of exposure in Pang Sudhinaraset’s Laos hotel has received penchant for clean, recent years as international audiences have minimalist lines and such an award. The resort, taken to their raw punk rock sound. It hasn’t cuts. At this new Ari a plush but relaxed 34- Soi 2 boutique you’ll come easy though – the band was only able SIDE EFFECT VIENTIANE find lots of denim room beauty flanking the to play the recent South by Southwest festival and casual crisp Nam Song River– has also white: tailored shirts, in Austin, Texas, by raising funds through the linen playsuits, flared been selected to become PledgeMusic website. They also play regularly Dished Up trousers and super part of the esteemed in Yangon – for details on upcoming shows, Conde Nast Johansens check out their Facebook page. facebook. The piquant Laotian dishes that Vientiane is famous for are pretty special. But if you’ve collection of luxury hotels, com/5ide3ffect a reference guide for spent days gorging on tasty pork larb and spicy salads you might be hankering for some independent travellers. western fare. Here's where you can find it We think it’s down to the gorgeous gardens, ACQUA LE SILAPA CHOCDEE CAFƒ detailed furnishings, This swish Italian eatery brings an Francophiles should head to Le Silapa This venue is the country’s first Belgian understated service and epicurean’s la dolce vita to Vientiane for quality Gallic cuisine with an Asian beer bar with over 100 ales and Belgian the piece-de-resistance: – think fresh lobsters and oysters, twist. Upstairs from the popular IBeam specialities like a Flemish beef stew and a huge rectangular pool spaghetti pomodoro, gnocchi with tapas bar, there’s lots of white linen, moules frites – mussels and crunchy which overlooks the chicory, cured meats, Italian ricotta and polished floorboards, high ceilings and fries to dunk in your sauce of choice. striking limestone karst fresh, emerald green pesto. All of the birdcage lights. It's been on the radar Owner Vincent Wirtgen is rather proud formations the region Tea staples are made from scratch in-house, of discerning locals for some time and of his white beer selection along with is famous for. Joining it from the pasta to the bread and even firm favourites are staples like foie gras, the range of famous Trappist beers in on the list is Vientiane’s time the ice cream. Imported, however, is hearty French salads and casseroles, the fridge – there’s Orval, Rochefort and Greenpark Boutique Hotel. the Beluga caviar from the Caspian Sea, but we think the changing specials that Chimay amongst others. A favourite of riversidevangvieng.com An integral YANGON NAY PYI TAW MANDALAY the Australian grass-fed beef tenderloin come with a Laotian twist are more locals and expats in Vientiane has been (smothered in a red wine jus and exciting – think roasted Atlantic scallops the fruity Kriek beers, perfect in these part of local LUCKY SEVEN KEYSTONE SHWE PYI MOE served with crunchy rosemary roast with a zesty lemongrass emulsion, tropical climes. Inside, it’s just like your life, curb side On a quiet downtown side street, For an upmarket take on teashop For sheer scale it’s hard to go past potatoes) and an excellent selection of zucchini and Chinese cabbage; a Tilapia favourite Euro pub, with a wide bar, teashops fill Lucky Seven is a Yangon institution. cuisine, head to Keystone at the Shwe Pyi Moe, which offers a European wines. The daily buffets are a fillet doused in a creamy curry and chunky wooden tables and walls lined The service is top notch, the food is Junction Square shopping mall. It dazzling array of Myanmar teashop steal: salads, warm and cold antipasto corn mousseline and topped with fresh with kitsch Tin Tin murals. The best these city streets sans MSG and palm oil and the tea has all the usual favourites – the foods in a large open-air setting. platters, a main, dessert, drinks and coconut and mint; and a sinfully-good, part though is the balcony overlooking nationwide is thick and sweet. Locals head here noodle salad known as nan gyi Mandalay’s proximity to Shan State coffee for just 88,000kip (USD$11). oozing mid-cooked chocolate with the mighty Mekong. It’s become a for the rice with oil and boiled peas, thoke is particularly popular – but in means this is the ideal place to try Watch the dedicated chefs at work salted butter caramel and a hibiscus popular spot to relax listening to jazzy or tamin sisan pe pyote. a Western-style environment. the Shan kaukswe, or noodle salad. through the large window into the flower coulis dripped over it. Délicieux! tunes and, as the sun slips down, some 49th Street, upper block Junction Square. 66th Street, opposite Sedona kitchen. facebook.com/acqua.laos facebook.com/lesilapavientiane 70s rock classics. chokdeecafe.com

126 FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations LAOS COUNTRY CODE +856 EXCHANGE RATE LAK8,000 = US$1 LUANG PRABANG FREQUENCY 2 flights per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 127 THE GUIDE thailand SPEND A DAY IN SELANGOR THE GUIDE Singapore KUALA LUMPUR & Kuala Daytripper: Lumpur Selangor for SG alive with the arts; the sultriest jazz clubs; KL two ways kids On the fringes of KL, the state of Selangor is filled with plenty of parks, reserves and sports centres. Here are three Selangor spots perfect for a family outing NEW BEDS IN TOWN (Clockwise) Hotel Clover the Arts; FOREST rock climbing and Villa Samadhi; Adonis Hotel RESEARCH bouldering skills or INSTITUTE watch human geckos MALAYSIA navigate over 400 A half-day spent hiking routes from a safe through this lush, distance at the café. 486ha rainforest, near camp5.com the popular Batu Caves, offers kids the chance PIN JUNCTION to let off steam. The BOWLING Canopy Walkway is the CENTRE SINGAPORE standout feature. Four Visit this big, bright sturdy, 150m-long and modern 24-lane Unique boutiques wooden plank walkways bowling facility to enjoy are suspended at a a bit of old-school height of 30m, allowing kegling. Bumper lanes for splendid views and are available for the Boasting concepts custom-made for interior-design magazine spreads, giving youngsters the little ones. pinjunction. opportunity to safely com.my a clutch of striking smaller hotels have opened their doors in the Lion City access their inner giants. frim.gov.my IT'S A HIT! VILLA SAMADHI ADONIS HOTEL HOTEL CLOVER THE ARTS Keep your eye on the HUA CHANG HERITAGE MODE SATHORN OKURA PRESTIGE BANGKOK Set to open its doors in March, There are 16 tastefully Local artists have splashed CAMP5 ball at this rooftop HOTEL If ”eat, sleep, rave, repeat” is Occupying 34 floors of the this grand, elegantly restored minimalist rooms and this fun, comfortable CLIMBING GYM batting centre that’s the Named for the adjacent Hua your style, check out Bangkok’s Park Venture Ecoplex, this colonial home in Labrador three suites – with boutique hotel’s 44 This massive, state-of- first of its kind in South- Chiang Bridge, this new addition latest lifestyle hotel, where Japanese luxury brand looks Nature Reserve offers guests “photographer”, “artist” and individually-styled rooms the-art indoor climbing East Asia. Choose from to a neighbourhood with few clubbing is a principal feature. directly down ”embassy the chance to step back in “explorer” as their themes – with modern, vibrant murals. facility (pictured baseballs or slightly Bed hotels boasts a charming retro Managed by Siam@Siam Design row” from the intersection time. The design concept? All in this refurbished shophouse Expect quirky touches below) is Asia’s largest. larger softballs and start Rama V-era/Victorian design, Hotel, Mode ups the ante with of Ploenchit and Wittayu things heritage: four-poster near the Raffles Hotel. Their like the story of a cat that Brush up on your swinging. hit.com.my coupled with modern interior the Theatre Bar and The Roof Road. The elegant décor beds, plantation chairs and whitewashed brick and putty unfolds in each floor’s lift furnishings. A tropical garden @ 38th Bar, plus a variety of borrows from Tokyo’s teak furniture adorn the rooms. walls have a soothing, muted lobby and a jungle waterfall and large pool lend resort-like dining possibilities at BLD original Okura with plenty There are also slick electronics, colour palette. Included in that cascades down the rest touches, while Miss Siam (the Bistro (sandwiches, home-style of dark marble, woods, Wi-Fi and private plunge pools the price of your room are back of the building. When name refers to a variety of European cuisine), Rice & mirrors and gilt, along with to keep up with the times. Take access to a fully stocked you’re ready to venture out, B A N G K O K lotus) restaurant serves both Chilli (contemporary Thai), The an infinity-edge pool on the tea in the library, play pool in minibar, Wi-Fi, breakfast, Clarke Quay’s nightlife and traditional Thai and a selection Sathorn (international buffet) 25th floor with stunning the bar or sit back and enjoy afternoon cocktails and Chinatown’s dining options Three stylish new of international dishes. and the Pool Bar. views over Bangkok. jungle views from the terrace. snacks at the hotel’s café. are right on your doorstep.

hotels to rest your head (huachangheritagehotel.com) (modesathorn.com) (okurabangkok.com) JOYCE ARWEN TEXT: samadhiretreats.com hoteladonis.com hotelcloverthearts.com

126 FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations SINGAPORE COUNTRY CODE +65 EXCHANGE RATE S$1.27 = US$1 SINGAPORE FREQUENCY 1 flight per day from Samui FAHTHAI 127 THE GUIDE singapore & kuala lumpur KUALA LUMPUR BY DAY AND NIGHT; TOP MUSIC LOUNGES THE GUIDE thailand

KUALA LUMPUR PHUKET

sabelle Dechamps, founder of Phuket Photo Tours, offers travellers interested Our city, two ways Note perfect Snap-happy in photography the chance to join a sightseeing trip that focuses on great (and Experience contrasting sides of KL: a night owl and an early bird Head to these sophisticated, An entirely new unique)I snaps of Thailand’s most visited island. show us their hometown as the sun sets and rises secreted-away jazz bars for perspective on island life Here she presents her top six Phuket photo mellow sounds, cosy settings ops... NIGHT OWL EARLY BIRD and top-drawer drinks AMULET MARKET Fierce, flame-haired lifestyle Jin Lim is half of the Ean & 1Located in the Old Town district of Phuket, blogger, personal fitness trainer Jinnyboy morning disc-jockey this is an “Odd little place, very easy to miss SINGAPORE and social media community team at Hitz FM (hitz.fm), as if you don’t know it,” Isabelle says. “With manager Jessica Tan (thejessicat. well as a popular YouTube video SING JAZZ CLUB hundreds of amulets on sale, the vendors are com) has been writing about producer – his channel has 56 Patrons close their eyes and let smooth grooves always ready to crack a joke – but things can style and nightlife in Kuala Lumpur for the past million views. Being part of the morning crew wash over them at this intimate club dedicated to get intense when buyers arrive.” decade. Here she shares her tips for a great night means a 4am start, so naturally Jin knows where syncopated rhythms and improvised melodies. on the town and the tiles. to go to kickstart the day with a jolt of kopi. An elegant red curtain backing the stage is a bold SEA GYPSY VILLAGE design touch but doesn’t take the focus off the 2 “This is my favourite for kids’ portraits,” main event – stellar performances by local and says the Belgian entrepreneur. “They have the international acts. singjazzclub.com most expressive faces and the whole world fills their eyes. They love having their portraits taken, all they ask in return is to see the photo SINGAPORE on the camera screen.” BTWENTYEIGHT Turn down an alley to find this whisky-focused CHINPRACHA MANSION basement jazz speakeasy. The stylish décor 3 “After seeing the frontages of the Sino- includes lots of leather and glossy wood. colonial shophouses on Thalang and Dibuk Thursdays feature a rotating line-up of vocal Roads, it’s very interesting to see the inside of talent, on Fridays the B28 quartet plays bebop this grand house with its original furniture – a and hard bop and on Saturdays the Hammond glimpse of how the Chinese tin merchants lived Organ Trio belts out classic blues and edgier a century ago.” modern jazz tunes. www.btwentyeight.com DOWNTOWN MARKET This is a “great place to meet the locals,” SINGAPORE 4 she says. “Vendors and customers alike are THE BLACK SWAN happy to have their portraits taken and the The upstairs lounge at this exquisite art deco market provides a slice of Phuket life. The establishment hosts Singapore’s own homegrown different colours, shapes and textures on jazz-soul-funk quintet, The Steve McQueens, display make for great photos.” “Grab dinner on Jalan Alor, where hawker “I spend my weekday mornings behind a every Tuesday night. The combination of great delights and exotic seafood dishes serve up microphone so on the weekends live music, well-crafted cocktails and tasty tapas BANG PAE WATERFALL a gastronomic adventure tour of Asia. Once I love meeting friends for a more leisurely and sharing plates makes this venue a top date- 5 “To me, this is the last pocket of you’re full to the brim, head to Changkat Bukit breakfast in my neighbourhood. Restoran New night pick. theblackswan.com.sg wildlife and nature in Phuket,” Isabelle says. Bintang, a street where desserts, drinks, music Apollos (Jln USJ 4/6B) in Subang Jaya, a suburb “Therefore, it’s not to be missed for the and mingling take centre stage, and raise a to the west of Kuala Lumpur, is my favourite wonderful variety of fauna, which includes KUALA LUMPUR glass of wine or two with local urbanites and local coffee shop for kopi and noodles. snakes, frogs, spiders and all kinds of insects.” visitors. Even when the clock strikes midnight, Otherwise, you can find me working on scripts NO BLACK TIE this Cinderella has no plans to head home and at any number of coffee shops in SS15, Subang KL’s premier jazz club and gastro-bar has been PROMTHEP CAPE you shouldn’t either. Grab a taxi to South-East Jaya’s main business district, which is one of the pulling in top-notch performers and live music 6 “With its rocky headland and palm trees, Asia’s most renowned name in clubbing: Zouk. most popular places to hang out in the Klang lovers since it was opened by Malaysian classical this is probably Phuket island’s most famous This megaclub pays tribute to star DJs and all Valley. Empire Shopping Gallery is also nearby pianist Evelyn Hii in 1998. The wood-panelled, location for sunset photos. The best time to forms of electronic music so let your hair down and has coffee shops galore, including Tous double-height stage makes for killer acoustics visit is on the weekends, when Thai brides and hop between all five zones, breathing in the Les Jours (tlj.com.my), a French-inspired and the club serves up solid food and drinks for Check out our destination guides on page 109 - and grooms come here to have their wedding eclectic music.” Korean bakery.” patrons on the floor. noblacktie.com.my and book your flight - on bangkokair.com

128 FAHTHAI MALAYSIA COUNTRY CODE +60 EXCHANGE RATE MYR3.2 = US$1 KUALA LUMPUR FREQUENCY 1 flight per day from Samui FAHTHAI 129 THE GUIDE singapore & kuala lumpur SINGAPORE’S FRENCH FARE; LATEST BAR OPENINGS ART FAIRS AND POP-UPS; HOT RESTAURANT OPENINGS THE GUIDE singapore & kuala lumpur

SINGAPORE

Gig guide Bottoms up SINGAPORE CATS Three new bars Andrew Lloyd Webber’s SINGAPORE SINGAPORE shaking things classic musical, which brings TS Eliot’s whimsical up on the island poems about felines to life, La vie en rose Art of the city hits the Marina Bay Sands BON APPéTIT PEEK-A-BOO Brasserie POTATO HEAD FOLK The theme of Grand Theatre stage this Some of Singapore’s finest French food Gavroche caters The team behind the Creativity sweeps across the island-state in January this year's Fringe month. Timeless songs, for nostalgic Festival is Art and can be found at these three establishments Parisians popular Bali beach club Loss fabulous sets, striking has deftly turned a heritage costumes and entrancing building into four floors choreography have made of beats, burgers and Cats a global favourite for bevvies. A chequered over 30 years. From 9-25 staircase leads from the January. marinabaysands. casual ground floor past com/CATS murals inspired by 1930s children’s books up to a SINGAPORE sexy art-deco cocktail den. pttheadfolk.com LANEWAY FESTIVAL Melbourne’s original indie BRASSERIE GAVROCHE ABSINTHE LE COMPTOIR UNA ART STAGE SINGAPORE SINGAPORE ART WEEK M1 SINGAPORE FRINGE FESTIVAL music extravaganza, the For Parisians, this place just Diners will be wowed regardless of This neighbourhood’s rapid Thought sherry was South-East Asia’s flagship art fair Aligned with Singapore Art Week Taking “Art and Loss” as its theme, St Jerome’s Laneway might be the perfect antidote for whether they’re seated in Absinthe’s transformation from seedy to stylish merely Grandma’s tipple? returns to the Marina Bay Sands 2015, Super 0 Openair is an all- the festival runs from 14-25 January Festival, has proven homesickness. On weekends, head oyster bar, in one of its private was aided by the launch of this Think again. The new Expo and Convention Centre from day boutique pop-up art, design, and features performances that such a hit that it’s held across the street to the equally dining rooms or at a table along the open-air crêperie. It features French bar at the lovely, leafy 22-25 January. Works from 29 performance and music festival. explore topics ranging from an throughout Australia. In charming Café & Bar Gavroche for river. This is a “special occasion” buckwheat galettes and cidres along Una – a colonial bungalow countries and 130 galleries will be It’s slated for 17 January at a secret immigrant’s take on the American 2011, Singapore was pain au chocolat and café crème. restaurant that you’ll probably find with Asian-inspired fillings like restaurant – showcases on display, with the majority hailing location. Follow #superoffthegrid dream to modern isolation. added to the list. Line-up brasseriegavroche.com excuses to revisit. absinthe.sg masala chicken. 79 Circular Rd 12 varieties of fortified from Asia. artstagesingapore.com for clues. super0.sg singaporefringe.com highlights this year include wine from Tío Pepe, one of folk duo Angus and Julia Spain’s most famous sherry Stone, indie rockers Little houses. It’s the first venue Dragon, quirky songstress of its kind in Asia. Try the St Vincent and the angelic- On Una Tomate, a superb take What’s voiced, local act .gif. 24 display SINGAPORE SINGAPORE on the bloody mary. una.sg new SOUTHBRIDGE FOC January. lanewayfestival. The latest addition to Singapore’s ever- The buzz surrounding chef Nandu com KUALA LUMPUR US artist Halley challenges TESS BAR growing rooftop bar scene can be Jubany’s new venture on Hongkong traditional concepts of space With Steve Leong, creator found atop a refurbished shophouse Street has much to do with its playful SINGAPORE of a bak kut teh-inspired on the Boat Quay riverside. The décor – a vintage motorcycle hangs KUALA LUMPUR New York-born, world-renowned artist Peter ROTFL gin cocktail, behind the setting is unpretentious and the views over the front door and giant white Halley will hold a month-long solo show bar, the drinks at this of the city are unforgettable, especially plaster heads are suspended over MICHAEL BUBLƒ of his vivid, geometric works at Art Plural Malaysian-born, Singapore-raised comedian restaurant and lounge are when enjoyed with cocktail in hand. the communal dining tables – and Grab your girlfriends – Gallery from 3 September. His paintings Ronny Chieng brings his multi-award winning predictably unpredictable. Try a Sex on the Quay (pictured, left), infectious, straight-from-Barcelona spirit. the blue-eyed Canadian SINGAPORE with their bright blocks and abstract, neon comedy show – he won the Directors’ Put yourself in the hands a mix of Earl Grey-infused vodka, The Michelin-starred chef's tapas – crooner and four-time lines have travelled to illustrious galleries Choice Award at the Melbourne International of a creative staff that can The latest mango, raspberry and sugarcane, some classically Spanish, some with an Grammy Award winner’s such as the Guggenheim in New York and Comedy Festival 2014 – “Chieng Reaction” suggest delectable pairings while slurping up selections from Asian twist – pair beautifully with Dario global tour comes to the Madrid’s vast Museo Nacional Centro de to both cities for the first time on 17 and 20 of their modern dishes and openings for the impressive oyster menu. Knox’s cocktails. Booking is essential. Lion City on 16 January and

Arte Reina Sofia. artpluralgallery.com September. ronnychieng.com cocktails. tessbar.com GALLERY PLURAL ART IMAGE: epicures southbridge.sg focrestaurant.com to KL on 27 January.

126 FAHTHAI MALAYSIA COUNTRY CODE +60 EXCHANGE RATE MYR3.2 = US$1 FREQUENCY 1 flight per day to Kuala Lumpur via Samui HOT TIP Throughout December, hawker stalls across Malaysia will take part in the Street Food Festival, celebrating contributions from various ethnic communities. FAHTHAI 131 THE BRUNCH CLUB; BANKER’S ANTIQUE COLLECTION; HONG KONG NEWEST FOODIE HUB; HOT HAPPENINGS

THE GUIDE THE GUIDE CATCH OF THE DAY Seared scallops with fresh herbs at Catch on Hong Paint Hong Catchick the town Kong Kong Events Vintage gems; hottest new Three hip city Styln’ city tour; Best of K-town; TASTES OF THE TOWN eateries; Hong Kong’s new nightspots Hot new restaurants Kinsale's outdoor dining and cheese Happenings not plate; bouillabaisse HAM & SHERRY at Bistro Du Vin to be missed Striving to make the fortified tipple hip After the excitement again, star British chef of Christmas is over, Jason Atherton recently take the kids to see the opened Ham & Sherry, musical adaptation of with over 50 varieties The Gruffalo, which runs of sherry available. A from 15 to 18 January at range of speciality jamón the Hong Kong Academy sourced from Spain is for Performing Arts. featured in the excellent Described as “Monstrous tapas-with-a-twist menu. Fun!” by The Daily Mail, hamandsherry.hk it’s a modern classic with TAPAS TREATS Former elbulli life lessons for the little chef is behind the 121BC ones and plenty of laughs stylish Barcelona- inspired Boqueria A welcome addition to for adults. hkapa.edu Soho is this elegant, Italian-style wine bar, It’s goodbye horse, hello which has a plethora of Neighbourhood guide: goat, as the Chinese New top class wines and a Year roars another year menu of rustic, seasonal Kennedy Town by. While the 19th is the Global dining Italian dishes perfect official day, in Hong Kong for sharing. In authentic the 15-day festivities Hong Kong’s international culinary landscape widens with the latest most talked enoteca style, all the wines include TST’s outdoor about restaurant to open can be bought by the As K-Town comes of age with its brand sparkling new MTR station, the once street party and Night bottle or by the case. predominantly local suburb has transformed into something of a foodie hub, Parade of performers, 121bc.com.hk making an exciting new hunting ground for those seeking a different vibe flower markets, fireworks over Victoria Harbour BARSMITH and the most packed-out This new and secluded BISTRO DU VIN for a pint of prawns or a dinner of walls with old Hong Kong style horse racing all year. izakaya-style bar offers a Pop in for deliciously earthy French Barramundi. catchoncatchick.hk birdcages. Their cocktail menu includes discoverhongkong.com huge range of hard-to- dishes within this eclectically tiled, the spicy Chili Chow, which you can find liquors and delicious postered and momento-ed space. The KINSALE marry with the miso cod tacos. Later Yogis should take note SUPER GIANT BOQUERIA CATCH ON CATCHICK infused spirits. There are wine cellar at the back of the restaurant Inspired by his favourite part of in the night, the swing is dropped into of visiting guru Kina Boutique hotel Mira Moon’s new eatery Spanish weekend celebrations are a hot The hip Kennedy Town (or “K-Town” as excellent aged Japanese is wonderfully distracting and the Ireland, Irish Cathal Kiely created place and the atmosphere really takes MacGregor’s Power has launched a Sunday brunch menu and Hong Kong trend and this tapas restaurant it’s known to the locals) continues to roll whiskies and sakes but menu spans all your favourite French Kinsale as a haven for family-friendly off. castelloconcepts.com of Ashtanga classes it’s a winner. Step aside bacon and eggs has launched a Barcelona-style feast out great restaurants, this one being the the “artisan” banana dishes like rillettes, bouillabaisse, coq comfort food. The spacious interior scheduled from 27 and make room for tapas and pintxos of paella and suckling pig along with latest, just a block from the harbour. A cocktail is our pick of au vin and tarte tatin. is a great pit stop for grilled scallops TIVO February to 1 March at (northern Spanish bar snacks). Start with a free-flow drinks. Chef David Izquierdo (of bijou little goldfish bowl of an eatery, with the bunch. With fresh facebook.com/Bistroduvin.hk with black pudding, the Kinsale A sophisticated newcomer, knock Pure Yoga. With motivating welcome cocktail; the Geisha’s Kiss, made elBulli fame) is at the helm. The restaurant an emphasis on excellent seafood, it also fruit, butterscotch syrup, Shellfish Pie and warm apple and back a cocktail, the Tivopolitan is names like Fearless with sake, orange, grapefruit and lime takes inspiration from Barcelona’s stands out for its brunch menu. The pièce caramel liquor and vanilla- CATCH ON CATCHICK sultana crumble. kinsale.com.hk a watermelon Cosmo, then sample Backbends and Burn, Baby juice, is the signature tipple here. Dig into favourite market and includes roaming de résistance here is the chorizo, Harissa laced vodka, it tastes just This mini-sized, Aussie-run restaurant some sharing plates like the fresh Burn!, you’ll be starting hearty Spanish-Chinese fusion tapas like food carts, jamón carving and elaborate butter eggs, spinach, roasted peppers and like a banoffee pie. This is is a delight, whether you swing by for MISSY HO'S burrata or garlic chilli prawns and the new Chinese Year with the Havana Duck Cigar spring rolls. cava (Catalonian sparkling wine) sabering. rocket on sourdough loaf. a great chill-out spot. weekend brunch to sample Harissa The easily-missed, no-name door hides finish with the spiced butterscotch maximum energy.

TEXT: CATHARINE NICOL CATHARINE TEXT: miramoonhotel.com boqueria.com.hk catchoncatchick.hk barsmith.com.hk NICOL CATHARINE TEXT: butter eggs with chorizo, lunch a bijou dark bar that mixes distressed pudding. facebook.com/tivokt pure-yoga.com

132 FAHTHAI HONG KONG COUNTRY CODE +852 EXCHANGE RATE HK$7.7 = US$1 FREQUENCY 2 flights per day to Hong Kong from Samui FAHTHAI 133 THE GUIDE hong kong A GUIDE THROUGH THE STYLISH STREETS THE GUIDE thailand

ong Kong-based author Nicole Chabot and Australian photographer Michael Perini give 24 outdoor workers a rare chance to tell their stories in Street Life Hong Kong: Outdoor Workers in Their Own Words. “These are people you rub Hshoulders with on the street,” Chabot says. “They form the backbone of Hong Kong and yet in many ways they’re quite invisible. I met people Fashion who take a lot of pride in their work and value the freedom of being & arts their own boss.”

TO GET BETTER ACQUAINTED WITH THE Point’s wet market includes FASHION FINDS REAL HONG KONG, MAKE LIKE CHABOT seafood restaurant Tung Po, where (Clockwise) Lovers & Friends; Mr. AND DO WHAT THE LOCALS DO you’ll experience the local table- Blacksmith; Kapok; sharing culture, called daap toi in Shanghai Tang TAKE THE TRAM Cantonese. 1 “The Hong Kong tramway used to mark the coastline. STOP BY A TEMPLE New art gallery Erarta, fresh from St Petersburg The island’s cheapest form of 3 “On weekdays, the temples (as well as London, New York and Zurich) transport, it’s very much used by and grounds of the Yuen Yuen has opened on Hollywood Road to bare the locals and is a great way to see Institute, dedicated to the three contemporary Russian soul to all in Hong Kong. how the city has developed. Chinese religions (Confucianism, The opening show, called Game Changers, Buddhism and Taoism), can be Insider haunts includes over 20 artists spanning mosaic, VISIT A WET MARKET very quiet and contemplative, collage, sculpture and video art. 2 “Indoor markets are often while during Chinese festivals Hong Kong-based erartagalleries.com/hong-kong ugly on the outside but there’s they’re a good window into a lot of life on the inside. North colourful local rituals.” stylist Sam Roseman As the temperature drops it’s the perfect time has worked in the to be selling hats. Helen Kaminski's Pacific fashion industry all his Place pop-up shop will be showcasing master craftsman Garry Bishop, who has created hats life. Currently posted for productions like The Great Gatsby and as GM of Havaianas, he offers the Moulin Rouge. helenkaminski.com ultimate tour of his adopted ’hood Fresh from Paris Fashion Week, fashion meets interiors meets Hong Kong luxury in “Sheung Wan is the new west, so head straight (starstreet.com.hk/eat-drink-be/club-monaco) the new Paul & Joe by Madura collections for Square Street to pick up a Void (squarestreet. atmospheric, dedicated menswear store while at MADURA’s Hong Kong Maison, Central or se/collections/void-watches) timepiece, and if the real hipster in us all secretly enjoys the Boutique Showroom in Sheung Wan. Of the those feet are tired from walking check out pretentious minimalism of the Monocle Shop two collections, one is Quintessentially British, their super comfy Gram shoes too. Stroll past (1-4 St. Francis Yard). Sit down and fuel up at influenced by hunting and game sports, the Man Mo Temple and down the stairs through Sift (siftdesserts.com) for their cupcakes and other a romantic fantasy called Midnight Garden. Cat Street market to check out Hipster (website then live a homeware-lover’s dream at Mr. madura.hk TBC) for some curated vintage. Make a quick Blacksmith (mrblacksmith.hk) across the road. detour to bright concept shop Lovers & Friends Of course it’s all about the bling-bling in (electricsekki.com), full of lifestyle accessories Central with brands galore, but don’t go mono, like Havaianas, on your way to the district’s go multi at Lane Crawford, Joyce and D-mop best dim sum at Dim Sum Square (88 Jervois St). (lanecrawford.com, joyce.com and d-mop.com). Head to Wan Chai to the start of Star Street Keep it Chinoise and head to Shanghai Tang’s and eat, drink and shop your way through the (shanghaitang.com) new Duddel Street maison SLEEP IN STYLE (Above) Offerings maze of hidden boutiques. Pay close attention and don’t forget to grab some of that famous at new gallery to Kapok (ka-pok.com/webshop) who serve Yung Kee (yungkee.com.hk) goose on your Erarta; Paul & Joe by Madura collection up the coolest in street culture cuteness. For way.” the boys, don’t forget to visit Club Monaco’s

134 FAHTHAI HOT TIP One of Asia's top cultural events, the 43rd Hong Kong Arts Festival runs from 27 February to 29 March FAHTHAI 135 THE GUIDE thailand ARTY FESTIVALS IN MUMBAI AND DHAKA; BEST BAKED DELIGHTS IN MUMBAI THE GUIDE South Asia Sugar rush Dhaka’s secret Aladdin’s cave; a

fashion editor’s Mumbai market MUMBAI tips; Maldives for history buffs These Indian baking wizards offer delicious sweet treats

Marzipan may conjure images of oma’s baking but Nordic Kandie (marzepan. com) makes art out of old-school almond candy. DID YOU KNOW The luxurious European Say chi brand recently opened Exercise may not be for business in India and a major part CURATED COOL its pastel marzipan pops of Myanmar (Clockwise) Dixit’s culture but “Red Quilt”; are a genuine delight, with early risers “Minarets” from flavours like cherry, lychee Chobi Mela; Kala can join in and peanut butter. Add the tai chi Ghoda fun at Inya cinnamon and nutmeg for Lake, where added Indian spice. hundreds gather each Waffles are so last morning from century, too, so grab around 5am to welcome yourself a waffle stick PEPPER PUNCH the day instead at Mumbai’s new Traditional Khmer State of the art with some food uses pepper, indie eatery Waffle House peaceful rather than chilli, The best of the region’s fests for arty types to add spice stretching. (wafflehouse.co.in). Choose from an array of flavours. There’s salted MUMBAI DHAKA MUMBAI caramel, of course – a KALA GHODA ARTS FESTIVAL CHOBI MELA VIII MEMORY OF RED hipster stalwart – but our STRAND HOTEL GOVERNOR’S RESIDENCE KANDAWGYI PALACE HOTEL Lovers of all things handmade, rejoice. This photography festival – the first The quilting process is often about favourites are the apple Constructed in 1903 by the Located in the city’s leafy Recently given a light This February, the city’s artsy district, such event in Asia – is possibly the stitching together more than just cinnamon and chocolate Armenian Sarkies brothers – diplomatic quarter, the touch-up by new owners Kala Ghoda, turns into a pedestrian- largest exhibition of its kind in the thread; textiles are laced with memory ganache-dipped sticks. Heritage of Raffles Hotel fame – the Governor’s Residence is run by Htoo Group, the Kandawgyi only zone for this kaleidoscopic, world, with over 23 countries taking and legacies. In this exhibition at Virtual bakeries are Strand was the centre of expat the Orient Express group but Palace Hotel remains week-long extravaganza under the part in 2013. The theme of this year’s Colaba’s Art Musings gallery, artist clearly de rigueur in social life in Yangon during the in no way resembles a cookie- one of the city’s premier stars. Check out installations created eighth instalment is “intimacy” – a Smriti Dixit takes swatches of cloth, Mumbai. The Cupcake colonial era but later fell into cutter chain hotel. Almost a establishments, blending by some of India’s leading artists, complex term in South Asia – so quilts and other wonderfully textured Factory (facebook.com/ heart disrepair. Tastefully renovated century old, the teak mansion both the old and new making sure to swing by the festival’s the event is bound to be evocative fabrics and stitches them together with cupcakefactoryindia) is in the early 1990s, the Strand was once a residence for the seamlessly. Looking out laid-back sunset musical performances and provocative. One of the many things others might simply throw away the proof in the pudding. YANGON retains its historical charm and governor of far-flung Kayah over Kandawgyi Lake – also and open-air film screenings. You’ll distinguishing features of the Mela is – scraps of old material, plastic price Open for only a few has few peers in Yangon. The State but was renovated in the known as Royal Lake – it also find a bevy of stalls showcasing its outreach and travelling exhibitions, tags, old saris and even shiny relics. months, it’s already one Three hotels that show off both bar remains a popular hangout late 1990s. Mixing traditional was once a rowing club cool, independent designer fashion which bring internationally acclaimed The end result is “Memory of Red”, of the city’s most popular the city’s past and present for residents and tourists alike, and colonial-style architecture, and then the Museum of and handcrafted goods, sustainable work to far-flung communities. Last an impressive body of work awash virtual bakeries. Its secret particularly during the Friday it boasts 48 rooms and a highly Natural History (in case products, pop-up cafés operated by year saw the exhibits travel to village in rich hues and shapes, one that just might be that perfect evening happy hour. regarded fine-dining restaurant. you are wondering why Mumbai’s leading eateries and more. playgrounds and market places. references rebirth and renewal. buttercream frosting: light,

hotelthestrand.com governorsresidence.com there’s a dinosaur statue in (MALDIVES) HARVEY AND SARAH DHAKA) (MUMBAI, RITU SOM TEXT: 7-15 February; kalaghodaassociation.com 23 January-5 February; chobimela.org 16 January-8 February; artmusings.net airy and not too sweet.

20 FAHTHAI COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights every day to a variety of destinations INDIA COUNTRY CODE +91 EXCHANGE RATE INR61 = US$1 MUMBAI FREQUENCY 1 flight per day from Bangkok FAHTHAI 139 THE GUIDE south asia MUMBAI’S MARKETS; A HIDDEN GEM IN DHAKA; NEW MUMBAI BARS BOLLYWOOD DESIGNER; DHAKA’S DOWNTOWN STAYS; UNDERWATER ART IN MALDIVES THE GUIDE south asia

New watering holes

MUMBAI

A bevy of edgy new bars have sprouted across Mumbai

PLEASE DON'T TELL This hipster speakeasy bills itself as a secret bar but it’s made not-so-secret by the fact you’re EDITOR'S PICKS RAILWAY STATION an aspiring interior designer’s encouraged to call and reserve a table. Still, the Rajani is an avid fan of railway MARKETS greatest find. The contrast location is pretty cool, sequestered away behind station markets “Mumbai’s lifeline is the of some pretty luxurious a betel leaf seller in hip Kamala Mills in Mumbai’s (top left) and Chor Bazaar complex network of local wares with a run-down street Lower Parel. Find a fire-engine red phone at the railways carrying millions from environment will blow your discreet front door, dial five (that’s the password) one end of the city to the other. mind. But the thrill of finding and you’re in. Double points for the Odd and Each station has a dedicated that special piece will have you Rummy, an icy, potent mix of rum and coffee M U M B A I market on its doorstep and going back for more. We hire and the Mid-East-inspired tapas. facebook.com/ they exist in pure, organised props for shoots here.” PDTMumbai chaos. My mum would grab Market my hand tight and navigate MANISH MARKET COLABA SOCIAL the rush of officegoers on the “For a long time, any imported Perched on Colaba Causeway behind the Taj Hotel, hopping platforms. From fresh produce, product you fancied could this is a space essentially created for white-collar flowers and fabrics to the best be found here. Until a recent freelancers and consultants who need a desk. Grazia India’s fashion sari blouse tailors in India, fire burned it to the ground, But come 5pm – and Friday lunch hour – it’s one phone cases, magazines – you you could buy fake designer director Ekta Rajani of the most raucous spots around. Try the nerdy name it, it’s found here.” watches, sparkly and synthetic Reaction, a drink served in a beaker with a syringe steers us through the best anything and Chinese imports. filled with vodka. Socialoffline.in markets across Mumbai CHOR BAZAAR It’s now in a swankier new “From genuine to fake antique building but is still the go-to BAR STOCK EXCHANGE furniture and old Bollywood place for everything fake, If you’re in the ’burbs, drop into this slick new memorabilia, Chor Bazaar is China-made and trendy.” drinking den in Andheri district. The drinks here are stock-exchange friendly, where rises and falls in the costs of shares are extended to the prices of drinks. The drink that’s trending the most becomes the most expensive. It makes for an exciting Tucked away in a nondescript, evening, where your bill will certainly surprise crumbling corner of the city, this is you – fingers crossed, in a good way. As for bar Dhaka’s own Ali Baba’s cave. Tati bites, try the fish tikka or panko-crumbed prawns. DHAKA Bazaar is a gold market where the barstockexchange.com goldsmiths are more exciting than the bling. Bangladeshi jewellery Good workmanship is the stuff of legend – it’s incredibly fine, intricate and as gold unfortunately a dying art. The market opens at 9am so head there to visit We take a look the workshops and watch a dull nugget being transformed into a inside the city’s detailed gold butterfly brooch so fine, famed Tati Bazaar you’d think it was made of silk.

140 FAHTHAI MALDIVES COUNTRY CODE +960 EXCHANGE RATE MVR15 = US$1 MALE FREQUENCY 1 flight per day from Bangkok COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights FAHTHAI 139 THE GUIDE south asia THE FASCINATING RUINS & ANCIENT REMAINS OF THE MALDIVES BOLLYWOOD DESIGNER; DHAKA’S DOWNTOWN STAYS; UNDERWATER ART IN MALDIVES THE GUIDE south asia

Breakfast of champions

MALDIVES

Dive in and try MALDIVES three of the most PRETTY PICTURE popular morning Anantara Kihavah's History hunters villas are ultra luxe meals among but the resort also has great history Maldives locals This resort-studded region boasts an intriguing heritage

MAS'HUNI ROSHI Eternally popular with LOAMA RESORT ROYAL ISLAND ANANTARA KIHAVAH VILLAS tourists and locals alike, Spearhead of a “cultural renaissance”, Taking languorous baths was a popular Contrasting with this resort’s high- mas’huni is a mild blend the soon-to-open Loama Resort at pastime in the Maldives long before the tech amenities and lush infinity pools of tuna, coconut, chillies, Maamigili puts the focus on all things inception of luxury resorts. In the 13th is the fascinating history of the island onion and lime juice. Tear cultural. Traditional crafts adorn the century, aristocrat Fas Badavin was of Huravalhi. As guests stroll down off pieces of roshi (very villas while artisans are on hand to famed for her love of soaking in stone shady jungle pathways they’ll see stone thin tortilla) to hoover it up. demonstrate mat-weaving, lacquerwork baths (the archaeological remains have wells dating back hundreds of years, Mas’huni comes with an and rope-making with coconut husks. endured). It was also a favourite big- just one reminder of the days when the egg and a steaming cup of The ancient remains of Buddhist baths game fishing haunt of the king at about island was inhabited by a community sweet tea or coffee. and wells have been unearthed for the same time. Adorned with banyan of Maldivians. There are also small guests to marvel at and there’s also a trees, the island is rich in folklore. rows of carved headstones softened by KULHIMAS museum. loamahotelsandresorts.com royal-island.com centuries of weathering. anantara.com Kulhi means hot in the local language and mas means fish, so there’s a warning in the name itself: this dish is only for the MALDIVES Why the update? Which sharks and rays are common? adventurous eater. Tuna is With advances in things like DNA Grey reef sharks, whitetip reef sharks, enveloped in a fiery, dry sampling, some fish names and images blacktip reef sharks and whale sharks blend of chilli and curry Ray of needed to be updated. So many people are the most common sharks along spices. It’s eaten wrapped come here to see the sharks and rays, with manta rays and stingrays. We up in roshi. A cup of sweet so we decided to do a whole new don’t know a lot about the life history of tea can ease the kick of light section on them. In the new edition, sharks – their nursery years in lagoons, this powerful dish. there are 15 species of shark and seagrass beds and mangrove swamps. Fishes of the Maldives is the go-to 16 species of rays . We’re also seeing how populations are RIHAAKURU marine-life guide used by dive recovering since the whole Maldives This dark, sticky paste Any surprises while doing research? was declared a Marine Protected Area. resembles Vegemite and centres since 1998, with 702 local I was surprised at how many shark and Fishesofthemaldives.com rather like the famous species listed. The re-launched ray species had been photographed Aussie spread, you’ll either 2014 edition is hot off the press in the Maldives: two guitarfish, a giant love it or loathe it. Made by guitarfish and the bow-mouthed boiling and reducing tuna and co-author Tim Godfrey guitarfish. There was a pelagic thresher fish with salt, it’s served tells Fah Thai more about this shark photographed in the far south with rice or roshi. There’s underwater paradise and a large, rarely-seen small-eye also a fried version made stingray in the central atolls that with onions and chilli behaved more like a manta ray. called thelulirihaakuru.

142 FAHTHAI BANGLADESH COUNTRY CODE +88 EXCHANGE RATE BDT77 = US$1 DHAKA FREQUENCY 1 flight per day from Bangkok COUNTRY CODE +66 EXCHANGE RATE THB30 = US$1 FREQUENCY Numerous flights FAHTHAI 141