Serengeti, Check. Atacama Desert, Check. Antarctica, Check. Intrepid Travelers Looking for Their Next Great Once-In-A-Lifetime A

Escape

CHURCHILL WILD POLAR

TRAILBLAZERBy paul rubio

Serengeti, check. Atacama Desert, check. Antarctica, check. Intrepid travelers looking for their next great once-in-a-lifetime adventure should head to the polar bear–rich Canadian Arctic with Churchill Wild. IAN JOHNSON

PALMBEACHILLUSTRATED.COM | JANUARY 2018 65 Sleeping under the northern lights at Churchill Wild’s satellite Arctic Safari Tundra Camp. Escape Left and below: The lounge and a guest room at Seal River Heritage Lodge. Below right: Phyllo eggs and sunshine muffins at Nanuk Scenes from Seal River Heritage Lodge (clockwise Polar Bear Lodge. from left): A polar bear investigates the airstrip; aerial view during summer; a polar bear in the summer fireweed; bears wrestling in the snow. MICHAEL POLIZA JAD DAVENPORT JAD

R VOLIVA sight, the lodges overlook 360 degrees of Arc- tic splendor. Resident polar bears are often so Arctic’s most iconic resident: curious and brazen in their natural environ- the polar bear. ment, visitors don’t even need to walk hours Of Earth’s 19 sub-popu- in search of them—they come directly to you. MICHAEL POLIZA lations, the thousand-strong To protect you from becoming bear bait, permanent polar bears of in operation since 1993, Churchill Wild has electric fencing encircles the lodges, effec-

West Hudson Bay, north of Churchill, Canada, intentionally maintained a low profile, re- tively turning humans into the zoo attraction MARK RENTZ are quite possibly the healthiest and most pho- serving its exclusive permits to track Arctic for the wildlife. Guides open wired gates only togenic. This is where National Geographic, wildlife on foot for true trailblazers. Coming when escorting travelers on hikes through the clude wolves, wolverines, snowy owls, and BBC’s Planet Earth, and the Discovery chan- face-to-face with one of the planet’s fiercest, surrounding tidal flats and prairies. Expect to Arctic foxes and hares, which lose their black nel come to capture footage of bears wres- most glorious apex predators without man- pass through four times per day on average, fur for white fluff when temperatures dip MARK RENTZ tling in the fireweed-speckled surrounds and made borders is nothing short of life chang- coming and going from twice-daily excur- in early October. In addition, the northern elting ice caps, starving wildlife, crossing frozen riverbanks with cubs in tow. ing, even for those who’ve traversed the likes sions into the wilds. Similar to an African safari, lights are so utterly outstanding in this region and overall environmental dev- Thankfully, access to this terrain is not lim- of Rwanda’s Virunga mountains for up-close an early wake-up call is followed by breakfast that they cast a natural glow across the night M astation dominate modern head- ited to tundra buggies. Though interactions with almighty gorilla troops. and a morning wildlife expedition. You’ll re- sky, even in summer. lines about the Arctic. But while this Churchill Wild’s trio of lodges is located turn for lunch before heading out again in the Though the comparisons to an African sa- apocalyptic outlook applies to nu- in prime polar bear real estate and each is a afternoon. Seasoned guides who’ve trained fari are many, don’t expect Churchill Wild’s merous swathes of Earth’s northern short Cessna flight north of Churchill (popu- and worked in polar bear country for decades lodges to be tricked out in the fashion of a IAN MCCAUSLAND latitudes, life still flourishes along lation: 899), in close proximity to the natural always lead the groups and put safety as a top five-star safari camp. The luxury here lies in the Arctic Circle in the upper reaches land-water border between Manitoba and priority. In 24 years, there has yet to be a single the remote location. The food is excellent pours of Canadian wine are provided dur- of Canada’s Manitoba province. Nunavut. Immersed in nature, these proper- injury for either human or bear. and plentiful, made fresh daily by a noted ing the nightly pre-dinner social hour and Welcome to West Hudson Bay ties serve as windows to the Arctic. Without a Though polar bears are the main draw for chef and his or her kitchen crew. Unlimited throughout the evening meal. The architec- coast, a magical place that reigns as road, light, or any other human disturbance in Churchill Wild, not every outing is tural aesthetic recalls a cozy alpine one of the planet’s final intact fron- about getting as close as possible to A mother polar bear and lodge with rooms that are minimalist her cub embrace at Nanuk A baby beluga (left) on the “Birds, Bears

tiers, a land where plump polar bears these furry marvels. Depending on Polar Bear Lodge. yet adequate, but truth be told, you’ll PAUL RUBIO PAUL & Belugas” safari offered in July and rule, countless caribou roam, char- the season, the Arctic’s other resi- never be there except to sleep. When August; a polar bear lazes along West ismatic beluga whales sing, and the Hudson Bay while humans gawk. DIDRIK JOHNCK dents compete for the limelight. not on an excursion, it’s hard to keep aurora borealis illuminates the night In July and August, some 60,000 your eyes off Planet Earth unfolding sky. Through 10 Arctic adventures, beluga whales enter Hudson Bay, in real time from the lodge’s living ranging from seven to 11 days in length, and Churchill Wild takes guests on room, dining room, porches, and in- outfitter Churchill Wild exposes travelers to a spectacular underwater journey door and outdoor observation decks uninhabited expanses of Manitoba’s rocky to swim with them. In September, (including a rooftop tower at Seal terrain, where experiential nature excur- hikes may center on witnessing the River Heritage Lodge). sions rival the best African safaris. And with fall caribou migration, when thou- It seems almost ironic that after three fly-in lodges, Seal River Heritage Lodge, sands of these antlered beauties traveling the globe and reaching Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge, and Dymond Lake drift south through crimson- and 125 countries over the past two dec- Eco-Lodge, there are endless possibilities for pumpkin-colored foliage. Other ades, my eyes are now open to one

extreme wildlife encounters, namely with the animals on observation may in- BOONE RAMONA of Earth’s most riveting and inspiring

66 PALM BEACH ILLUSTRATED PALMBEACHILLUSTRATED.COM | JANUARY 2018 67 Escape JAD DAVENPORT JAD REACHING POLAR PAUL RUBIO PAUL During the Arctic summer, a polar bear travels at BEAR COUNTRY low tide and sea chamomile achieves full bloom. To begin this Arctic experience, travelers will first need to reach Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba, places right here in America’s backyard. Canada, which is serviced by most American In a world that’s becoming ever more and Canadian commercial carriers. All Churchill homogeneous and environmentally de- Wild itineraries begin with a night in Winnipeg, funct, West Hudson Bay shines as a pock- followed by an early flight to Churchill on Calm et of natural beauty and stamina, a place Air, and then a short Cessna flight to the airstrip where our biological heritage still thrives, at Seal River Heritage Lodge, Nanuk Polar Bear and the ultimate bucket-list destination PAUL RUBIO Lodge, or Dymond Lake Eco-Lodge. for adrenaline-loving and eco-minded wanderers. (churchillwild.com) «

68 PALM BEACH ILLUSTRATED