Colorants in Soapmaking Manual

By Erica D. Pence

© Pence Enterprises, Inc. and Erica D. Pence. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. This book contains material protected under International and Federal Copyright Laws and Treaties. Any unauthorized reprint or use of this material is prohibited. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without express written permission from the author / publisher. Table of Contents

Overview ...... 3 All About Color ...... 3 Colorant Overview ...... 7 FD&C Colorants ...... 8 FD&C Colorants – LabColor Dilution Guide ...... 8 Using FD&C Colorants ...... 10 Pigments ...... 11 Using Pigments...... 11 Micas ...... 13 Using Micas ...... 13 Plants and Clays ...... 15 Making Oil Infusions...... 15 Using Plants and Clays ...... 16 Color Blending ...... 18 Dusting Soap Tops ...... 19 Creating Veins in CP Soap ...... 18 Coating Soap for Embedding ...... 21 Mica Painting ...... 20 Mica Swirls in CP Soap ...... 20 Troubleshooting ...... 21 Appendix A – Colorant Suppliers ...... 22 Appendix B – LabColor Chart ...... 23 Appendix C – Natural Colorants for Soap ...... 23 Glossary of Soap Terms ...... 27 About the Bath Alchemy Lab ...... 28

2 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. Overview

This manual is written for soapmakers of any kind. Whether you make cold process, hot process, or melt and pour soaps, this manual will address all things color so you can achieve the results that you want in your soap projects. This comprehensive manual will discuss pigments, dyes, and micas, as well as natural plant colorants and clays. You’ll learn about color in general, what each type of colorant brings to soapmaking, how to color your soap, and special considerations.

All About Color

While this section is not really ‘all’ there is to know about color, having a basic understanding of color and related terminology may help you understand the information in this manual as well as give you a crash course in color and color theory.

Color theory attempts to classify color in an attempt to assist in combining and harmonizing color. The most common way to classify color is using a color wheel. Sir Isaac Newton developed the first circular diagram of colors in 1666. Over time many were developed, but today, this image shows a common color wheel example.

3 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. The color wheel is based on different categories of color.

 Primary Colors: Red, yellow and blue In traditional color theory (used in paint and pigments), primary colors are the 3 pigment colors that cannot be mixed or formed by any combination of other colors. All other colors are derived from these 3 hues.

 Secondary Colors: Green, orange and purple These are the colors formed by mixing the primary colors.

 Tertiary Colors: Yellow-orange, red-orange, red-purple, blue- purple, blue-green & yellow-green These are the colors formed by mixing a primary and a secondary color, hence the name of the hue is two words, such as blue-green, red-violet, and yellow-orange.

Color harmony is the arrangement of color in a manner that is pleasing to the eye. Extreme unity leads to under-stimulation, extreme complexity leads to over-stimulation. Harmony is a balance. When working with color, it is good to know how colors are combined to create color harmony.

 Complementary color scheme Colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel are considered to be complementary colors (example: red and green).

The high contrast of complementary colors creates a vibrant look especially when used at full saturation. This color scheme must be managed well so it is not jarring.

 Analogous color scheme Analogous color schemes use colors that are next to each other on the color wheel. They usually match well and create calming designs.

Analogous color schemes are often found in nature and are harmonious and pleasing to the eye.

4 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc.  Triadic color scheme A triadic color scheme uses colors that are evenly spaced around the color wheel.

Triadic color schemes tend to be quite vibrant, even if you use pale or unsaturated versions of your hues.

 Split-Complementary color scheme The split-complementary color scheme is a variation of the complementary color scheme. In addition to the base color, it uses the two colors adjacent to its complement.

 Rectangle (tetradic) color scheme The rectangle or tetradic color scheme uses four colors arranged into two complementary pairs.

This rich color scheme offers plenty of possibilities for variation.

 Square color scheme The square color scheme is similar to the rectangle, but with all four colors spaced evenly around the color circle.

5 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. Hues, Tints, Shades, and Tones

The primary (3), secondary (3) and tertiary colors (6) are the family of twelve purest and brightest colors. They form the full spectrum of hues which progress around the Primary Color Wheel in gradual increments. The word hue and color are often used interchangeably, so to avoid confusion, think of hue as being the part of the 12 main colors of the color wheel. If a color is made lighter by adding white, the result is called a tint. If black is added, the darker version is called a shade. And if gray is added, the result is a different tone.

Tints - adding white to a pure hue:

Shades - adding black to a pure hue:

Tones - adding gray to a pure hue:

Warm and cool colors

The color circle can be divided into warm and cool colors.

Warm colors are vivid and energetic, and encompass reds, oranges, and yellows.

Cool colors give an impression of calm, and create a soothing impression and include blues, greens, and violets.

White, black and gray are considered to be neutral.

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How is this relevant to soapmaking? Any of the designs you make such as layering, embedding, swirling, and creating scenery relies on a harmonic choice of color. If you understand basic color theory, you can take the information and apply it to the color choices used in your soap. When using 3 or more colors in your soap, it is a good practice to choose one of the colors to be dominate. Be sure to plan your colors ahead of time to coordinate with your scent or fragrance. Color blending will be discussed later in the manual.

Colorant Overview

There are several types of colorants that may be used for soaps, which fall into three categories: synthetic, natural, and nature-identical. Synthetic colorants are made by people. Natural colorants can be found in nature and have little to no alterations after they have been obtained. Nature-identical colorants have been made by people to mimic natural elements, which are often too costly or contaminated to mine. They are the same exact chemical make-up of the natural substance, but without harmful contaminates like lead or arsenic.

 FD&C Dyes – Dyes are concentrated synthetic, colorants made for bath and beauty products. They are made from approved FD&C dyes and are tested for skin safety. They do bleed or migrate, so if using multiple colors in your soap, be aware that they will blend together over time. Suppliers offer these dyes under different brand names, such as LabColors or Stained Glass.

 Pigments – Pigment is a general term for oxides and ultramarines. Pigments are typically nature-identical. They can come powdered or in a liquid glycerin base. They can produce both subtle and strong colors. Pigments are considered ‘non-bleeding,’ which means the color does not migrate when layering multi-colored soap. The powdered version has a tendency to clump in the soap, so be sure to mix and blend well.

 Micas – Micas are shimmery powders that can add subtle or dramatic color to soap. They can be natural, nature-identical, or a blend of nature-identical and synthetic. You’ll want to read the ingredients list from suppliers. Some micas are all natural and some have been coated with FD&C colorants. Some micas morph colors in cold process soap, so be sure to test prior to use, or research online. Micas are considered non-bleeding colorants if made with pigments, but can bleed if containing FD&C dyes.

 Plants and Clays – There are a number of herbs, spices, plant derivatives and clays that can be used to color your soap. Anything from kelp to paprika can be used in soap. Soap suppliers typically sell these natural ingredients so you will know they are skin safe. Plants and clays are natural colorants.

Do not use Rit Dye, crayons, food coloring, paint, or any other product that is not approved as a skin safe colorant in your soap or bath and body products. While food coloring is technically skin safe, it is not

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necessarily stable in soapmaking. Purchase your colorants from a soap supplier or when choosing plants and botanicals, ensure they are food grade and safe for the skin. If using colorants for cosmetic, ensure the colorants are listed as lip safe or safe for use around the eyes.

FD&C Colorants

FD&C (food, drug and cosmetic) colorants, found under various names depending on supplier, are synthetically made dyes approved for use in skin care products. They often come in a concentrated liquid or powder form and should be diluted for use in soap. In the past, many dyes were unstable in CP soap, but held up well in MP soap. Now there are a number that are made specifically for high pH use and can withstand the saponification process and are considered stable in CP soap.

The major downfall of dyes is that they migrate or bleed, which can ruin designs in soap using more than one color. Color migration or bleeding occurs when one color slowly blends into another color over time. This eliminates crisp lines that may be in the soap design and can make the soap look messy and unprofessional. There are rare times when a design works well migrating color and one such design is the ombre or gradient layer soap.

Pros: Cons: • Brilliant colors • Not all are stable • Easy to blend • Colors migrate or bleed • Stay clear in MP soap • Synthetic, or not natural • WYSIWYG (What you see is what you get in • Some must be diluted ahead of time MP, CP, and HP)

Soap safe colorants are named differently with each supplier. Brambleberry uses LabColors while Wholesale Supplies Plus uses Crafter’s Choice Stained Glass. Some suppliers simply refer to the colorants as soap dyes. If you are making CP or HP soap, choose dyes that are for high pH environments. MP soapmakers can choose any of the regular soap dyes.

Read the directions for use as each colorant may have different guidelines. If using LabColors, you can expect to color 3-15 lbs of soap per diluted ounce.

FD&C Colorants – LabColor Dilution Guide

Although this dilution guide focuses on LabColor colorants, you can use this information for most dyes that arrive in a concentrated form. Before using LabColors or other concentrated dyes, you will want to dilute them so that your soaps do not become speckled when the dye is added. Dilution will need to be done ahead of time and you may want to add a preservative to prevent the growth of mold. If you want

8 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. to dilute on an as needed basis, you can do so, however, you will probably end up throwing some away or not having a consistently diluted mixture.

To dilute your LabColors or other concentrated soap dyes, follow these instructions:

You will need:

 Heat-safe container  Distilled water  Thermometer  Whisk  Container to store colorant (a larger bottle works well)  Rubber gloves  Water soluble preservative (optional)

LabColors come in 3 sizes. You will need to determine the size of LabColors you have purchased.

 small (dilutes into 4 - 8 oz. water)  large (dilutes into 8 - 16 oz. water)  jumbo (dilutes into 50 - 100 oz. water)

For cold process soaps, use the lowest amount of water. Measure your water according to the size of Labcolors you purchased and place it in the heat safe container.

For example, for the large LabColors, you would place 8 oz of water in the heat safe container. Do not add more than the recommended amount of water as it will render the colorant ineffective and possibly change the formula.

 Heat the water to 140° F (60°C). Remove from heat as soon as this temperature is reached to avoid affecting the integrity of the dye.  Shake your LabColors bottle well and then pour the contents of the bottle into the water and stir with the whisk.  Pour the Color into your storage container. Fill your empty dye bottle halfway with the diluted mixture. Cap the bottle and shake well to get the remaining colorant in the bottle. Now pour the contents of the bottle back into the storage container and whisk.  After the mixture has cooled, add your preservative. If you prefer not to use a preservative, dyes can be measured and poured into ice cube trays and kept frozen. Or you may keep the colors refrigerated. Keep in mind that storing water solutions without a preservative or with refrigeration will allow mold to grow in your colorant.  Label your storage container

Cleanup: Do not add water to a dye spill. Instead, wipe it up completely with paper towels, then you can wipe with a wet cloth or mop. Adding water will expand the mess.

LabColors has a blending guide you can purchase from Brambleberry or New Directions Aromatics. LabColors are typically ¾ to 1 ½ ounces of diluted colorant to 1 pound of soap, but varies greatly

9 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. depending on the color, tint, and shade you wish to achieve. You can expect to color 3-15 lbs of soap per diluted ounce. See Appendix B for a color mixing guide for the 12 main high pH dyes, which can be used in CP, HP, or MP soap.

Using FD&C Colorants

Using dyes is quite simple. While you can use them undiluted or in their concentrated form, they tend to speckle the soap. Therefore, it is recommended that you dilute concentrated dyes or purchase them pre-diluted. A little goes a long way. With one ounce of diluted dye, you can color 3-15lbs of soap.

For cold process soaps using a high pH dye:

You will want to verify with your supplier’s directions, however, in general dyes can usually be added to your lye/ water mixture or to your raw soap at trace. To add into the lye mixture, place your diluted dye into the water while measuring. This way your water amount will remain the same rate. In other words, if you need 10 ounces of water in your soap recipe, add your ounce of colorant to the 9 ounces of water to reach the 10 ounces required. If adding them to your soap mixture, reduce the amount of water to account for the equal amount of diluted dye. You can add the dye to hot process soap, but the results are better if the dye is incorporated into the soap, before the heat is added. Do not use more than the maximum amount of color per the guidelines of the FDA.

Start with a small amount of dye. If you add your colorant at light trace, you will get an idea of the intensity of the color and can add more until you reach the desired tint. Some colorant hues require a lot of dye to reach a rich deep color. You may want to use these colors in smaller amounts within your soap, such as embedding or swirling.

When the colorant is first blended into the soap, it may not be the color you expect so do not be alarmed. Over the 24 hour saponification period, it will change to its proper, expected color. Be aware that essential oils and fragrances can change the colors of soap. If you are using a scent that will change the color of the soap, you will need to keep in mind that when you add your colorant the color will change. If the soap is tinted yellow and will remain that way through saponification, then adding a blue dye will result in a green hue. Some fragrances will temporarily change the color of a dye even though they do not tint the soap. Some of the purples will turn a strange green, but once they have gelled, will become a purple again.

Gel Phase:

When using many FD&C dyes in your cold process soap, gel phase is the key for getting those richer, more vivid colors. Gel phase refers to part of the soapmaking process where the soap heats up and takes on a gelatinous look. Soap does not have to go through the gel phase. You have a choice when making cold process soap. You can let the soap remain as is, and it may or may not go through gel phase, you can promote the gel phase by wrapping the molded soap in a towel, or discourage it by placing the soap in the refrigerator.

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Soap colored with a dye that goes through the gel phase will have more vivid colors and a somewhat glossier finish. The non-gelled soap will be paler and often have a more matte finish. Both soaps are completely fine. The decision to gel or not gel your soap is just personal preference.

For melt and pour soaps using a low pH dye:

Simply add a few drops of color to the melt and pour soap base to get an idea of color, then add more to reach the desired tint. Some colors will change colors a little when used with salt products, such as bath salts or bath bombs.

Pigments

Pigments, also referred to as oxides and ultramarines, are nature-identical colorants that come in powdered form. Some suppliers mix the powder in a glycerin base and sell it as a liquid. They come in a relatively standard range of matte colors. They do not bleed and are stable in soap. They can be added in their powdered form into the soap, but they tend to clump and cause speckles. To avoid this, you can mix the pigment with a little oil or water, depending on if you have the oil soluble or water soluble variety, and then add it to your soap. Working with powdered colorants will be explained later in this manual.

Pros: Cons: • Stable, rich colors • Tends to clump and can speckle soap • Colors do not bleed • Limited colors • Economical • Suspends in clear MP soap allowing less • Nature-identical (not synthetic) translucency • WYSIWYG

Many suppliers carry pigments in the same basic colors. There are about 10-15 different colors, although you can blend them to achieve more colors. This manual explains how to blend pigments to achieve more shades for your soapmaking. Typically for coloring CP soap, begin with ½ tsp of colorant per pound of soap and add more as needed. MP soapmakers should start with 1/16th to 1/8 tsp of colorant per pound of soap and add more as needed.

Using Pigments

Pigments can be used in any soap or bath and body product. They usually come in powdered form. Some suppliers mix the powder in a glycerin base and sell it as a liquid. If you have this variety of pigment, shake the bottle well and then squirt the color into the soap until you reach the desired tint.

To mix your own pigments into liquid form ahead of time, add 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 cc) of pigment per 1 oz of carrier oil or glycerin and mix well. Make sure all the clumps are evenly stirred into the mixture. Pour the liquid color into a small squirt bottle and cap for storage. When ready to use, shake the squirt bottle

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well, and add a few drops to your soap until you have reached the desired tint. You can also squirt the liquid into a measuring spoon to keep your recipes more consistent.

For cold process soap:

To add your pigments, you can measure and add the powder directly to the soap at trace. Typically for coloring CP soap, begin with ½ tsp of colorant per pound of soap and add more as needed. This will often cause speckling, especially in certain colors no matter how much you blend.

To avoid speckling, add 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 cc) of pigment to 1 oz of carrier oil and mix well. Make sure all the clumps are evenly stirred into the mixture. Use a dropper to add the colored oil to your warm oils, a few drops at a time, until the desired tint is reached stirring after each addition.

For melt and pour soap:

To add your pigments, you can measure and add the powder directly to the soap base. Start with 1/16th to 1/8 tsp of colorant per pound of soap and add more as needed. This will often cause speckling, especially in certain colors no matter how much you blend.

You can make a large color cube (or cylinder as the case may be) to use to color your MP soap. Mix 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 cc) of pigment to 1 oz of carrier oil and blend well in a small plastic cup completely dispersing the pigment in the oil. Then add clear MP soap base to the cup and stir up well. Allow to cool and you will have a color ‘cube’. The larger the container you're filling up, the more pigment you should add initially to ensure your ‘cube’ has the most color possible. To use the color cube, simply cut off pieces and melt into your soap. You can also try pouring the colored soap base into a mold of small cubes for later use.

You can also mix pigment powder with rubbing alcohol (sometimes referred to as a slurry). Pour this mixture into your soap leaving any clumps in the container, which can be mixed with more rubbing alcohol in the future.

Easy Colorant Mixing:

To easily mix pigments, micas, or any other powdered colorant, try using a mini mixer or frother. It is a small battery operated device that blends more thoroughly that costs no more than $5 for the cheapest variety. You can use the whisk or the frothing attachments.

Mix 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 cc) of pigment to 1 oz of carrier oil. Using the mixer, blend the solution well working out any clumps. Now you can add the colorant to your soap. I also recommend that you add a small amount of your CP soap to the colorant, blend with the stick blender, and then pour the colored soap into your larger batch. This helps to ensure that all clumps have been worked out within the smaller solution.

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Micas

Micas are powdered colorants that come in both matte and iridescent colors. They are all-natural minerals that are mined from the ground or can be created in a lab. It is considered a natural colorant in its raw state, meaning that nothing has been added. However, many micas have other ingredients added of which you should be aware. These added ingredients will determine if a colorant will bleed or fade.

Many micas derive their colors from the addition of nature-identical ingredients, such as pigments and oxides, while others are made in part with synthetic ingredients. If the mica is colored only with a pigment, it will remain stable in cold process soap and will not bleed. An example of the ingredient listing of a stable mica is: INCI: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron oxide.

If a mica is colored with an FD&C dye, such as ferric ferrocyanide, it will fade, morph, and/or bleed. An example of an ingredient list for an unstable mica in cold process soap is: INCI: Mica, FD&C Red 40 Lake, Hydrogenated Polysobutene, Palmitic Acid.

Pros: Cons: • Huge color variety • Some colors are unstable & morph (change) • Easy to use • Less translucency in clear MP soap • Adds shimmer to clear MP soap and tops of • Some contain synthetic ingredients CP soap • Can cause speckling due to mild clumping • Natural and Nature-identical varieties

The variety of micas available for soapmakers is incredible. Most suppliers carry micas in various shades and some suppliers, such as the Conservatorie, specialize in micas and have a vast inventory of colors. Just like pigments, micas can be added in their powdered form into the soap, but they tend to clump and cause speckles. To avoid this, you can mix the pigment with a little oil or water and then add it to your soap. Working with powdered colorants will be explained later in this manual. You can also blend micas to form new colors.

Using Micas

Micas are much easier to blend even in a powdered state, but you can follow some of the same guidelines as pigments. To add your micas, you can measure and incorporate the powder directly into the soap (at trace for CP). This will often cause speckling but far less often than with pigments.

Just like pigments, you can premix your powder micas into liquid form. Add 1 teaspoon (5 cc) of mica per 1 oz of carrier oil or glycerin and mix well. Make sure all the clumps are evenly stirred into the mixture. Pour the liquid color into a small squirt bottle, label and cap for storage. When ready to use,

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shake the squirt bottle well, and add a few drops to your soap until you have reached the desired tint. You can also squirt the liquid into a measuring spoon to keep your recipes more consistent.

For cold process soap:

Since micas can be coated with FD&C dyes or pigments, you will want to choose your micas according to your needs. To avoid speckling, you will need about 2 teaspoon (10 cc) of mica per lb of soap to achieve a strong color. Add this to 1-2 oz of carrier oil and mix well. Make sure all the clumps are evenly stirred into the mixture. Add to the soap at trace. Micas will not add any of their shimmer when blended in CP soap.

For melt and pour soap:

If you are using a clear base, try about 1/2 teaspoon per pound to achieve a nice, strong pearl effect. The less you use the more transparent your soap. To add your micas, you can measure and add the powder directly to the soap base and stir well. Micas usually blend and suspend well in MP soap. When working with opaque MP bases, you will need to use more mica. Try 1 teaspoon of colorant per pound of soap and work up to a desired color.

If you are having a problem with speckling, add 1 teaspoon (5 cc) of pigment to 1 oz of carrier oil and mix well. Make sure all the clumps are evenly stirred into the mixture and add to soap.

You can make color cubes just like pigments. Mix 1 teaspoon (5 cc) of pigment to 1 oz of carrier oil and blend well in a small plastic cup completely dispersing the pigment in the oil. Then add clear MP soap base to the cup and stir up well. Allow to cool and you will have a color ‘cube’. To use the color cube, simply cut off pieces and melt into your soap. You can also try pouring the colored soap base into a mold of small cubes for later use.

You can also mix mica with rubbing alcohol (sometimes referred to as a slurry). Pour this mixture into your soap leaving any clumps in the container, which can be mixed with more rubbing alcohol in the future.

Easy Colorant Mixing:

Mix 1 teaspoon (2.5 cc) of pigment to 1 oz of carrier oil. Using the mixer, blend the solution well working out any clumps. Now you can add the colorant to your soap. I also recommend that you add a small amount of your CP soap to the colorant, blend with the stick blender, and then pour the colored soap into your larger batch. This helps to ensure that all clumps have been worked out within the smaller solution.

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Plants and Clays

There are two types of all natural colorants in this final category – plants and clays, both of which are taken directly from the earth with minimal processing and no additives. The list of plant based colorants is quite extensive, and a comprehensive list has been included in the Appendix of this manual. While the FDA has not approved many food grade herbs and spices as colorants for cosmetics, these ingredients are often added to soap for their color as well as benefit to the skin. A range of colors can be achieved, however, they do tend to fade more quickly than other colorants. Natural colorants can come in various forms, such as powders, extracts, seeds, and chopped leaves, roots, stems, barks, etc.

Clays are natural colorants that are mined from the earth and purified. Clays are available in a smaller range of colors but offer skin benefits as well as color to soap. Most clays are known to absorb oil, which can be great for acne prone skin. Conversely, clays also absorb water which can lead to accelerated trace in cold process soap. Clays can be incorporated into soap in two primary ways. The first is by dispersing the clay in water and then adding it to the soap at thin trace. Because clays naturally absorb water, this method tends to slightly alleviate clays’ tendencies to accelerate trace and reduce the possibility of the soap cracking. Alternatively, the clay can be added to the lye-water before it is mixed with the fixed oils. Typically, adding your clay in this manner will result in a more vibrant color and less clay is needed to color the soap.

Pros: Cons: • Natural • Limited colors • Earthy colors • May need extra prep like infusing • Plants create unique speckles if added as a • Less certainty of color powder (this can be a con, as well) • Some plants are hard to find. • Some bring added skin benefits to soap

Only skin safe clays purchased from soap suppliers should be used in soap, and only food grade herbs and spices should be used in soap. Not purchasing from reputable companies can lead to a dangerous final product. How much colorant to use is very subjective to the individual plant or clay.

Making Oil Infusions

Herbal infusions are an easy way to use a plant material as a colorant for use in soap. One of the most effective methods is an oil infusion. There are two different methods that work well - the hot oil method and the cold oil method. To add the infusion, you can either add a very small amount of highly concentrated colored oil to your soap oils or at trace, or you can replace an oil in the recipe with a less concentrated color infused oil. For example if your recipe called for 8 ounces of olive oil, replace it with 8 ounces of infused olive oil.

Dried herbs in hot oil – The crock pot works best for hot oil infusions, unless you can obtain a heat diffusing mat or simmer mat. These mats can be purchased online or in kitchen stores that carry

15 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. specialty products. Stove top temperatures are too high for proper infusions and will cook your herbs, depleting them of their properties. A double boiler can be used at low temperatures as well.

Place your herbs in the pot. Add enough oil to just cover the herbs. As a starting point, try 1 part dried herbs to 2 parts of oil. This is just a starting point, you can add more herbs to make a more concentrated infusion. Allow to heat at a temperature of 120-130 degrees. The “warm” setting on the crock pot should achieve this temperature, but as brands vary, you’ll need a thermometer to be safe until you’re sure of your crock pot’s settings. Remember, we do not want to cook the herbs. Simmer at this temperature for 2 - 3 hours. Once the oil has cooled, strain the herbs out of the oil using a couple layers of cheesecloth, which can be purchased at kitchen or craft stores. You can then use the infused oil in place of any oil in your recipe. Note: To avoid having to strain the herbs, try placing them in a heat sealed tea bag sold by many soap suppliers.

Dried herbs in “cold” oil – The cold infusion method is one of my personal favorites. It involves steeping the herbs and oils in the sun, which results in lovely jars full of infusions on the windowsills. The drawback to this method is that it takes weeks.

Sterilize a mason jar, or something similar. This can be accomplished by placing the jar in boiling water or by running it through the “antibacterial” cycle on your dishwasher. If you have ever canned food before, you will be very familiar with this important first step. You can either pack your jar with herbs and then pour the oil over the top or, for smaller recipes, use 1 part herbs to 2 parts of oil. Again this is just a starting point, you can add more herbs to make a more concentrated infusion. Seal the jar tightly with a clean lid. Place the jar on a windowsill with lots of sun for 3 - 4 weeks. Give the jar a quick shake once daily. The object is to keep the jar warm as the herbs steep in the oils, so if you live in a cold climate, take that into consideration. Once finished steeping, strain the herbs and botanicals from the oil. Note: To avoid having to strain the herbs, try placing them in a heat sealed tea bag sold by many soap suppliers.

Using Plants and Clays

Natural colorants can be incorporated into your soap using one of several techniques. The technique you choose will be determined by the ingredient, its form, and the color you are trying to achieve. In CP soap, you can add natural colorants at trace or in the lye/water mixture. Most of the time, adding at trace will give a stronger, richer color, but there are some herbs that work really well in lye. Keep in mind that many natural ingredients will give exfoliating properties to your soap, which can be a pro or a con depending on your goals.

Powders:

You can mix powdered forms of herbs, spices, and clays directly into your CP or MP soap. The finer powders will have less exfoliating properties than those that are more coarsely powdered or chopped. You can add powder or chopped herbs, spices, and clays directly to your MP soap, or your CP soap at trace or in the lye mixture. Most of the time, powders will speckle your soap, but you can lessen this by adding water to the powder first. Add ½ tsp to 1 oz of distilled water and mix well. Make sure all the clumps are evenly stirred into the mixture. Add to the soap.

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Clays can be incorporated into soap in two primary ways. The first is by dispersing the clay in water and then adding it to the soap at thin trace. Because clays naturally absorb water, this method tends to slightly alleviate clays’ tendencies to accelerate trace and reduce the possibility of the soap cracking. Alternatively, the clay can be added to the lye-water before it is mixed with the fixed oils. Typically, adding your clay in this manner will result in a more vibrant color and less clay is needed to color the soap.

Infusions:

You can infuse herbs and spices into oil as explained above. To add to your CP soap, replace your oil with infused oil. If your recipe calls for 16 oz of olive oil, you can replace it with 16 oz of infused olive oil. Or, when using more concentrated infusions, you can mix part infused with part non-infused oil. So for the same example, try 4 oz of concentrated infused color, and 12 oz of regular olive oil. Make sure that you replace the oil in the recipe with the same oil in the infusion or you will have to recalculate the amount of lye needed. The drawback to this method is you will have to tint your entire batch of soap the same color, preventing you from making multi-colored designs.

Using oil infusions in MP soap does not work as well, unless you can use a very small amount of oil to color the soap. If this will achieve your desired tint, add ½ tsp of infused oil per lb of soap and then you can add a little more if needed.

Slurries:

You can make a slurry to add powdered natural colorants to your MP soap by mixing your colorant with rubbing alcohol. Pour this mixture into your soap leaving any clumps in the container, which can be mixed with more rubbing alcohol in the future.

Color Cubes:

You can make color cubes just like pigments. Mix 1/2 teaspoon (5 cc) of powdered colorant to 1 oz of carrier oil and blend well in a small plastic cup completely dispersing the colorant in the oil. Then add clear MP soap base to the cup and stir up well. Allow to cool and you will have a color ‘cube’. To use the color cube, simply cut off pieces and melt into your soap. You can also try pouring the colored soap base into a mold of small cubes for later use.

Easy Colorant Mixing:

17 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. smaller solution.

Color Blending

You can blend any colorants in soapmaking with varied results. Natural ingredients will be the most difficult to get a consistent even blending if you add powdered forms to your soap, however, it is still doable and can create interesting effects, especially when multi-colored speckles coexist. FD&C and D&C dyes can be blended, and some even offer a blending guide, such as LabColors sold by Brambleberry. Micas and pigments can also be blended. There are a plethora of mica shades already on the market, and some are not stable in cold process soap causing color morphing (color becomes a completely different color) and fading. Therefore, in this article we will only focus on blending pigments.

If you are on a budget or new to soapmaking, I suggest you purchase 3 primary colors, plus black and white. When using pigments, these are the five bare bones colors every soapmaker should stock:

 Red Oxide  Blue Ultramarine  Yellow Oxide  Black Oxide  Titanium Dioxide (white)

Your primary colors will look like the soaps in the photo.

Using the color wheel, we will use the primary colors to create secondary colors:

Purple: 1 part red + 1 part blue Orange: 1 part red + 1 part yellow Green: 1 part blue + 1 part yellow

What are parts? They are whatever measurement you want to use. Just substitute the measurement for the part. So for purple, using equal parts, you would use 1 tsp of red mixed with 1 tsp of blue.

The best way to blend the colors is to mix them with a little oil or glycerin. Using a mini-mixer, which can be purchased from soap suppliers or kitchen stores, blend the oils and colorants together and then add them to the soap.

You should get colors that look something like the colors in the secondary colors in the photo. You have started with 3 colors and created 6.

Now we can blend the same 3 primary colors to create tertiary colors:

18 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc.

Yellow-orange: 1 part red + 3 part yellow Red-orange: 3 part red + 1 part yellow Red-purple: 3 part red + 1 part blue Blue-purple: 1 part red + 3 part blue Blue-green: 3 part blue + 1 part yellow Yellow-green: 1 part blue + 3 part yellow

You will get colors that look like those photographed. Now you have used your 3 colors to achieve 12 colors.

NOTE: It is important to understand that any of your ingredients can affect your soap’s base color, thereby affecting the pigments you add. If you add a fragrance that tints your soap base yellow, and you add a blue pigment, your soap will be green, not blue. If using milk in such a way that your soap base ends up being orange, and you add blue, you will get some shade of green (perhaps not a shade that you would prefer). Always be aware of your soap’s base color. Strive to keep it as white as you can to get the colors that you want. If you know that a fragrance will tint your base yellow, then choose a color that will work with yellow. Simply use your color theory instructions above and plan accordingly.

From this point, you can alter color parts, such as creating a new violet with 1 part red and 4 parts blue. You can also add white to create new tints and black to create new shades. You can end up with quite a number of colors with just 3 primary colors and 3 neutrals. If you want to take this further, try adding more colors of pigments to your basic three to create new hues. The possibilities are endless.

Dusting Soap Tops

For a super easy added pop of glam to any soap, MP or CP, add a dusting of mica to the soap top. Simply use a shaker, a spoon, or your gloved fingers to sprinkle a thin layer of mica powder over the top of your newly poured soap. This should be done while the soap is still wet. It’s easy and the effect is quite dramatic.

Creating Veins in CP Soap

You can add micas, clays, powdered botanicals, and more in between layers of soap for added design and shimmer. In this example, a layer of gold mica was placed between layers for added glam. Prepare your mica layer. You can either set up a bowl or shaker of mica or, for greater coverage, mix your mica with a clay or colloidal oatmeal. It will keep the shimmer, but allow a more economical layer of shimmer to be distributed. Plus oatmeal and clays bring added benefits to the soap.

Make your CP soap. Pour half your soap into the mold, then use a shaker, a spoon, or your gloved fingers (you don’t want colorant all over yourself and you are still handling raw soap), to sprinkle a thin layer of mica powder over the layer of soap. Make sure you can still see the soap through the layer of

19 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. powder. If you put too much on, the next layer of soap will only adhere to the powder and not the first layer of soap resulting in your bar splitting in half when you handle it. If you can still see the previous color, your second layer of soap should have no problem sticking together.

Pour your remaining soap batch over the powdered layer (this should be done by holding a spoon or spatula close to the soap’s surface and slowly pouring the soap over the spoon, allowing it to slide onto the powdered layer – our CP Intermediate 1 class explains in great detail. When you cut your soap the next day, you will see a thin shimmering line through your soap.

Coating Soap for Embedding

Here is another very easy, very striking design element using mica, clays, powdered herbs or botanicals, or cocoa powder. You can do this with both CP and MP soaps. Gather your soap shapes or scraps you will be using to embed into your main soap. Prepare your mica. You can either set up a bowl or a Ziploc bag with your chosen mica or mica mixed with a clay or colloidal oatmeal. I find the Ziploc bag works best. Place your shapes into the bowl or bag. If using a bowl, toss the shapes in the bowl until covered in mica. If using the zip bag, seal the zipper and shake the soap until coated. You can now place the coated shapes into your main raw or wet soap base. When you slice your soap, you will see a line or color or shimmer surrounding each shape.

Mica Painting

Mica painting or rubbing is a technique of applying a coating of shimmering mica to a design on a soap to highlight it or make it stand out. There are 2 ways to achieve this – you can rub the mica into the soap or you can paint the mica onto the soap with a paint brush. It’s really that simple.

Mica Shimmers in CP Swirling

This is a fun addition of shimmer to your cold process soaps using swirling techniques. This manual does not cover swirling techniques, but you may take our CP Intermediate 2 Soapmaking class for full instructions and demonstration. If you already have this skill set, but don’t know how to achieve a shimmer to your swirls, this is how it is done.

In a squirt bottle, combine your chosen mica (gold, silver or a contrasting color work best) and a small amount of glycerin, and shake to blend. You want the mixture to be thick. You can use the mica mixture on its own or in conjunction with colored soap you are also swirling. Squirt lines of your mica mixture to your soap top. Swirl as you normally would. Try not to over mix your colors when swirling, so your mica stays as shimmery as possible. That’s it! Stand back and marvel at your new masterpiece.

20 Colorants in Soapmaking Manual ©Pence Enterprises, Inc. Troubleshooting

Below are some common problems you may encounter while using colorants.

Q. The color of my embedded shapes has spread into the surrounding soap. What went wrong?

A. This is known as bleeding or migrating. This is caused by using a synthetic colorant such as FD&C or D&C dyes, like LabColors or Stained Glass colorants. There is no fix for this problem, but in the future you will need to use non-bleeding colorants such as pigments and micas, as well as most natural colorants.

Q. What causes the little colored speckles in the soap when using pigments or micas?

A. This is caused by insufficient or improper blending. Try using a mini mixer and blend your pigments with some oil first ensuring there are no clumps left. Then blend this mixture in with your soap. If you are still experiencing problems, try mixing a small amount of soap to your mixture and blending it well. Then add this colored soap to the larger batch.

Q. What causes the little colored speckles in the soap when using a dye?

A. This is usually caused by using undiluted dye. Try diluting your dye first to prevent this from occurring in the future.

Q. What causes the little colored speckles in the soap when using herbs and spices?

A. This is the nature of the natural colorants when added in powdered form, even when premixed with oil or water. You can either appreciate the unique beauty of this occurrence or you can prevent some herbs and spices from doing this in the future by infusing them in oils first or adding them to lye water.

Q. I colored my CP soap with a gorgeous hot pink mica. It looked great when I mixed it into the soap, but the next day it is a dark reddish brown. What happened?

A. This is known as morphing. It is due to the instability of this particular mica in high pH, or cold process, soap. There is no way to prevent or stop this. But you can search for a more stable mica that has been tested in CP soaps. Some soap suppliers have micas, including pinks, that are stable in CP soaps.

Q. My CP soap looked awesome when I added my colorant, but today looks faded or washed out.

A. There are two things that can cause fading. First, if using unstable micas or colorants that are not resistant to UV light, the colors will fade or lighten. The other culprit is not going through the gel phase. Wrap your filled molds in a towel to create a gelling effect. Some dyes and micas are more vibrant when they have gone through a gel phase.

Q. Help! My soap is staining my washcloth and the bubbles are red.

A. You have used too much colorant. Avoid this in the future by using a smaller amount of colorant in your soap. You can rebatch this soap with some old uncolored scraps to dilute the colorant.

Bramble Berry Inc. www.brambleberry.com LabColors, micas, pigments, and natural colorants

From Nature With Love http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com FD&C dyes, micas, pigments, and natural colorants

GoPlanetEarth.com Soap Mold SuperStore www.goplanetearth.com Non-bleeding soap dyes, pigments, and micas

Lather and Lotions www.latherandlotions.com FD&C dyes and micas

Nu-Scents www.nuscentscandle.com FD&C dyes, micas, pigments, and natural colorants

The Conservatorie http://theconservatorie.com FD&C dyes, lakes, micas, and pigments

TKB Trading www.tkbtrading.com Non-bleeding dyes, pigments, and micas

Wholesale Supplies Plus.com www.WholesaleSuppliesPlus.com Stained Glass dyes, micas, pigments, and natural colorants

High pH Basic 12 Usage Guide – CP, HP and MP Soap

Always do a small test batch to determine the amount of color your recipe requires. These amounts are figured per pound of finished CP soap. The colors shown are results in CP soap.

LabColors Intensity Min Max Red ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Melon Red ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Orange ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Peach ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Canary ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Lime ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Emerald ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Aqua ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Blue Mix ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Brilliant Blue ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Royal Purple ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

Fuchsia ¾ oz 1 ½ oz

You can purchase a LabColor Blending Chart with all LabColors from Bramble Berry.

Here is a comprehensive list of many natural colorants that can easily be obtained from soap and herb suppliers and are safe for use in products for the skin, which can be used as a guide as you experiment with nature’s color. The colorants are grouped by color. The information was gathered from a wide variety of Internet and print sources, therefore, “Notes (if available)” are not our own, and should only be used as a general guideline or a starting point. You will need to experiment yourself to achieve the desired shade of color.

Reds and Pinks

Alkanet Root - Pink/Red to Purple - Infuse 2.5 tbsp per pound olive oil Beet Root - Pink to Red - Infuse 1 tbsp in 2 ounces of oil Cochineal Powder - Deep Red - Made from insects and is not considered vegan Hibiscus - Red Lady’s Bedstraw - Coral Pink - Use the roots Madder Root - Pink to Rich Red - Add 1 tbsp per pound soap at light trace Morroccan Red Clay - Brick Red - Very stable, add 1-3 tbsp per pound of soap Pink Clay - Muted Pink Rattanjot - Red to Purple - Infuse 1 tsp in 2 ounces of oil Red Cabbage - Rose - Can add unpleasant scent Red Palm Oil - Pink to Orange Red Reef Clay - Deep Red Red Sandalwood - Maroon - Add ½ to 1 tsp per lb of soap. Lower pH yields red/ higher pH makes purple Rose Hip Powder - Pink to Burgundy - Add at light trace Rose Pink Clay - Brick Red - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound of soap Sorrel - Soft Pink - Use the roots St John’s Wort Flowers - Red - Infuse flowers Tomato Puree - Red to Orange

Oranges and Peaches

Annatto Seed - Orange to Yellow - Infuse 2 tsp per pound oil Butterfly Bush Flowers - Orange to Gold - Infuse flowers Carrot Powder - Orange - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound of soap at light trace Dahlia - Orange to Yellow - Infuse Mace Powder - Orange - Infuse 1 tbsp in 2 ounces of oil Milks - Orange/Yellow/Brown - Add lye to milk instead of water Orange Peel Powder - Orange - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound of soap at light trace Pansy Herb Tea - Orange Paprika - Peach/ Salmon - Infuse ½ to 1 tsp per pound oil Pumpkin/Sweet Potato Puree - Deep Orange - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound of soap Safflower Petals - Orange to Yellow - Infuse/ Petals retain color Sweet Orange Oil - Orange - Add to scent and color soap at light trace Tomato Puree - Red to Orange Tumeric - Orange/Gold - Add to oils or infuse

Yellows and Golds

Acacia Flowers - Maize Yellow - Infuse flowers Annatto Seed - Yellow to Orange - Infuse ¼ tsp in 2 oz oil Black-Eyed Susan - Yellow - Mix petals in lye solution Calendula Flowers - Buttery Yellow - Infuse 1 tbsp in 2 oz of oil or add ¼ cup petals per lb soap at trace Chamomile - Yellow/Gold - Infuse 1 tbsp in 2 ounces of oil Dahlia - Intense Yellow - Infuse Elderberry Leaves - Yellow - Infuse Fennel Mustard - Yellow Ginger Root - Yellow Goldenrod Flowers - Muted Yellow - Infuse Ground Mustard - Yellow Milks - Orange/Yellow/Brown - Add lye to milk instead of water Red Palm Oil - Creamy Yellow to Gold - Use 1% for creamy yellow and 15% for gold Safflower Powder - Yellow - Add 1-2 tsp per pound soap at trace Saffron Petals - Warm Yellow - Infuse St John’s Wort Leaves - Yellow - Infuse Tumeric - Gold - Add to oils or infuse 2 tbsp in 2 ounces of oil Yellow Clay - Yellow - Add 1-3 tsp per pound of soap

Greens

Alfalfa Powder - Pea Soup - Add 2 tsp per 4-5lb batch soap (Unpleasant scent) Blue Green Algae - Green Burdock Leaf - Natural Green - Infuse Chlorella - Green Chlorophyll (Liquid) - Light Green - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound soap at trace Comfrey Leaf - Deep Sage Green - Add 1 tbsp per pound soap at trace Cucumber - Pale Green Dandelion Leaf - Green - Add 1-2 tbsp per pound soap at trace Dill - Green French Green Clay - Green - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound soap at trace Kelp - Dark Green - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound soap at trace Mugwort - Greenish Gold Nettle Leaf - Lime Green - Infuse or add 1 tbsp per pound soap at trace Olive Leaf - Green - Infuse or add 1 tbsp per pound soap at trace Parsley - Green - Infuse flakes for better staying powder Peppermint - Green Sage - Green Spinach - Green - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound soap at trace Spirulina Moss - Green - Infuse 1-2 tbsp in 2 ounces of oil or add 1-3 tbsp per pound soap at trace Stevia Powder - Green - Infuse 2 tbsp in 2 ounces of oil Ulva Lactica (seaweed) - Sage Green

Alkanet Root - Pink/Red to Purple - Infuse 2.5 tbsp per pound olive oil Black Mulberry Puree - Dark Bluish Purple Blackberry Puree - Purple Blue Chamomile EO - Robin’s Egg Blue - Add ½ to 2 tsp per pound soap at trace (Will scent) Blue Cypress - EO Blue - Add ½ to 2 tsp per pound soap at trace (Will scent) Blueberry Puree - Blue - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound soap Indigo Powder - Blue - Infuse 2 tsp in 2 ounces of oil or add ¼ to ½ tsp per pound soap Purple Grape Juice - Bluish Purple - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound soap Purple Indian Corn - Dark Purple/ Maroon Red Geranium Leaf - Dark Purple to Grey Red Hibiscus - Purple - Infuse Red Sandalwood - Purple - Add 3 tbsp per 6 lb soap Woad Leaf - Sky Blue - Add 1/8 to ½ tsp per 5lb soap

Browns and Tans

Acacia Flowers - Golden Brown - Infuse flowers Betonite Clay - Beige to Green/Grey - Add 1-3 tbsp per pound of soap Black Walnut Hull - Rich Brown - Add ¼ to ½ tsp per pound soap at trace Cinnamon - Tan to Brown - Add ½ to 1 tsp per pound soap at trace Cloves - Brown - Add ¼ to 1 tsp per pound soap at trace Cocoa Powder - Dark Brown - Add ¼ to 1 tsp per pound soap at trace Coffee - Deep Creamy Brown - Use brewed coffee in place of water or add grounds at trace Comfrey Root - Light Milky Brown Elderberries - Light Brown - Steep in lye solution Milks - Orange/Yellow/Brown - Add lye to milk instead of water Oolong Tea Extract - Brown to Green

Blacks and Greys

Charcoal Activated - Black - Add 1 tbsp per pound soap at light trace Pumice - Grey

Sample Soap Images

You can see some samples of soap made using different natural colorants at the following online sites:

•Susanne’ Crafty Corner categorized by color at http://crafty.dyskolus.com/coloring/coloring.html •Lovin Soap Blog – Spices and herbs http://www.lovinsoap.com/2011/07/natural-soap-colorants- gallery-spice-and-herbal-powders-at-trace/ and Clays http://www.lovinsoap.com/2011/08/natural- soap-colorants-gallery-clays-added-at-trace/ •About.com Candle and Soapmaking displays an gallery from the 2010 Lone Star Soap and Toilettries seminar http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/projectgalleries/ig/Lone-Star-Natural-Colors/ • The Soap Making Forum http://soapmakingforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=31303

Botanical - Obtained from a plant or plants, related to plants or botany. Botanical Name - The Latin name assigned to distinguish one species from another, the scientific name composed of the genus followed by the species. Carrier Oil - A vegetable or nut base oil used to dilute essential oils prior to the application on your skin. Cold Process - A method of soapmaking without utilizing any external heat source. Cosmetic Grade - Refers to the approval for use in cosmetics, such as colorants, dyes or fragrance oils which will come into direct contact with your skin. CPHP - Crock Pot Hot Process. A method of soapmaking utilizing the heat from an electric crock pot during the soapmaking process. D&C - Prefix used to designate the approved use in drugs and cosmetics, such as D&C Red#7. Decoction - A tea or infusion brewed from hard plant material such as bark and roots. Embeds - Used in loaf, tube and column molds. Soap embeds are of a contrasting color and shape such as moon and stars, curls and ribbons. FD&C - Prefix used to designate the approved use in foods, drugs and cosmetics. Formula - A listing of ingredients in fixed proportion, usually expressed in percentages. Glycerin - A triatomic alcohol (glycerol) byproduct created during saponification. Used in food, cosmetics, soaps and lubricants. Herb - An aromatic plant used in medicine or as a seasoning that does not produce woody tissue and usually dies back at the end of the growing season. Hot Process - A method of soapmaking utilizing an external heat source to accelerate the saponification process, such as a crock pot, double boiler or oven. INCI Name - International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. The INCI name is required when labeling cosmetics marketed in the USA. Infusion - Made by steeping botanicals in oil or water. Irritant - Causes irritation or inflammation of the skin. Layering - The process of pouring multiple layers of soap, usually of varying colors. Melt & Pour Soap - M&P is a method of handcrafting soap by melting a ready made soap base, adding fragrances and shaping using molds. MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet. Provided by the manufacturer or distributor to define the health, safety and fire risks associated with products that are considered hazardous. Natural Soap - A soap made from natural ingredients, free from petroleum, chemical or other artificial ingredients. Natural Source - Obtained or derived from a natural source such as that from a botanical base. Recipe - A list of ingredients in precise quantities with directions for preparing and making your soap. Soap - A simple cleansing agent, the sodium salt resulting from the combination of oils and fats with an alkali. Soluble - Dissolvable in a liquid, as in alcohol or water soluble. Synthetic - Artificially produced, not of natural origin. Trace - A point in soapmaking where the mixture reaches a certain consistency or thickness most noticeable when the soap is drizzled upon itself and leaves a trail before disappearing back into the mixture. Water Soluble - Dissolvable in water.

Bath Alchemy Lab offers soap, bath and body care, and candle making classes and workshops at different skill levels in a fun and friendly environment.

Soap classes range from beginner to advanced in both cold process and melt and pour, with new liquid and transparent classes coming soon. Bath and body classes cover lotions, bath treats, herbal skincare, and more. And candle making classes teach the basics of natural soy, beeswax, and palm candles.

Classes may be in a demonstration or a hands-on format providing a thorough understanding of theory and practice. They are kept small and allow for questions and interactions with students. Private lessons are also available. Classes include one or more of the following:

 Comprehensive manuals  Samples  Kits with full materials  Products made in class

Bath Alchemy Lab is centrally located on the East Coast in Greensboro, NC. We can also come to your area or event.

Teacher and Founder

Erica D. Pence is the owner of The Bonnie Bath Co. and author of the popular blog, Bath Alchemy. Erica started her soap and candle making business in 2008. She holds a Bachelor’s Degree in Education, and is a Certified Advanced CP/HP Soapmaker and Certified Soapmaking Teacher through the Handcrafted Soap and Cosmetic Guild (HSCG), as well as a HSCG 2014 Conference Speaker. She is a long time column editor and feature writer for The Saponifier Magazine, an online publication for soapmakers. Erica is currently working on a publication for creating Artisan Soaps using a variety of advanced techniques.

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