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December 2014 - January 2015

In search of lost time Glorious Pskov, ancient and modern More than 10 years Treasure Palace in Russia! The State Hermitage turns 250 inyourpocket.com N°98 Contents

Where to eat 28 ESSENTIAL Russian, Italian, Caucasian and more CIT Y GUIDES Nightlife 39 Bars and clubs – how to stay out till 6 a.m. Foreword 4 What to see 44 In the News 5 The essentials 44 Arrival & Getting Around 6 Modern art centres 45 Historical outskirts 47 City Basics 8 Where to stay 54 Language 9 Interview with concierge 56

Culture & Events 10 Shopping 57 Concerts and festivals 10 Russian winter souvenirs 58 Exhibitions 14 Expat & Lifestyle 59 Features The expat experience 60 St. Petersburg Theatre Life 17 Winter Holidays in St. Petersburg 20 Maps & Index Grand Hotel Europe 34 Metro map 61 Hermitage 250 years 48 City map 62 Pskov 50 Street index 64 Moscow 65

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www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 3 Foreword In the News Time flies way too fast. I still remember how one year Hermitage Celebrates ago our team was preparing a big party dedicated to Russian Epiphany St. Petersburg In Your Pocket’s 10th anniversary. So 250th Anniversary many close friends came to celebrate this day with us While there are many worthy contenders for the title face of An ice bucket? You call that a challenge? Filming your- and wish us their best! And now we are one year older St. Petersburg In YourESSENTIAL Pocket the city, if you ask someone to close their eyes and picture self as you tip a few litres of cold water over your head again and as always have lots of new ideas and exciting founded and publishedCI byT YOOO GUIDES Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. St. Petersburg, they will probably imagine the Hermitage. on a summer’s day is all very well, but you’ve got some projects. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, Founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great as a private collec- way to go to match the brave souls who line up to 2014 was a great year for all of us at In Your Pocket as General Director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected] tion (one of the Empress’s first job lots was purchased from take the plunge each year on January 19th, the date of well as for St. Petersburg itself. The city has been grow- [email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com Sir Robert Walpole, Great Britain’s first Prime Minister), the the Epiphany (Kreshcheniye) in the Russian Orthodox ing and changing in all the right ways, especially in both General Manager Chris Gilbert, [email protected] Hermitage only opened its doors to the public just under a calendar. Last year more than 30,000 people in St. Pe- the hospitality and cultural sectors. A ton of new hotels Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, [email protected] Design Malvina Markina, [email protected] centurey later, during the reign of Nicholas I. Today the col- tersburg alone voluntarily immersed themselves three and restaurants, art centres and museums have opened Sales Managers lection has grown to over 3 million works, or one for every times in a blessed section of freezing water in honour and St. Petersburg hosted more big international festivals Ilya Timshin, [email protected] visitor who crosses its hallowed threshold each year. If you of the baptism of Christ. If you want to watch, or even and concerts than ever before. All of which once again Contributors Olivia Capozzalo, Nils Roskamp weren’t one of them in 2014, shame on you, but check out take part, there are 17 sites in and around St. Petersburg confirms St. Petersburg’s status as the cultural capital of Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected] our special feature on pages 48-49 and we’ll overlook it just officially set up to help the faithful and/or foolhardy Russia. Copyright notice this once. test their mettle, the most central being on the banks That’s all to say, you’ve made the right choice in coming to Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2015. All of the Neva just by the Peter and Paul Fortress. this incredible city and you can now enjoy the experience rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any of a real Russian winter! Be ready, they say this winter will form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name be one of the coldest in 20 years. Sounds exciting doesn’t In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. it? Check out our special feature on pages 20-26, which is Editor’s note filled with things to do during the winter holidays as well The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from as full details about New Year celebrations. Then wrap up paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and sug- gestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the warm and hit the town! information at the time of going to press and assume no responsi- You can also go to the theatre (as you probably know it’s bility for changes and errors. an absolute must during your stay in St. Petersburg, check © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket out pages 17-19 for details) and after that have a fabulous © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, dinner in one of the best restaurants in town (see pages No 98, 01.12.2014, 90.000 copies. 27-38). Or if you’d like something really special and un- For children aged 16 years and over. Arts’ Square Festival forgettable, check pages 50-53 and plan your trip to the On December 14th and 15th the St. Petersburg Philhar- The FORMA Biennale ancient town of Pskov. Not far from St. Petersburg and one Санкт-Петербург Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, monia will host the 15th “Arts’ Square” music festival. This of Museum Design В Твоем Кармане 191024, Санкт-Петербург, of Russia’s oldest, yet least well known cities, Pskov has Учредитель и издатель: ул. Тележная, д. 17. year the event takes on a distinctly English flavour: the pro- Organised by the State Hermitage and the PRO ARTE o lots to offer the curious traveler. ООО «Красная Шапка» Заказ N 26829 gramme includes performances of works by Purcell, Brit- Foundation for Culture and the Arts, with the support of Whatever you decide to do, enjoy every moment of your Адрес редакции и издателя: ten, Elgar and Nyman among others, and renowned tenor Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Свидетельство о регистрации the Russian Ministry of Culture and the Mikhail Prokhorov stay in the city and have a lot of fun! Happy New Year, Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. средства массовой информации Ian Bostridge and pianist Christian Blackshaw will also be Foundation, the FORMA Biennale is a new initiative setting dear friends! тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 flying in. To mark the 450th anniversary of Shakespeare’s факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64 выдано Северо-Западным out to examine how contemporary museums can optimise Главный редактор: региональным управлением birth, midwinter in St. Petersburg will witness a unique themselves both in terms of visitor attraction and function- Ksenia Elzes, Бонни ван дер Велде комитета РФ по печати. performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, and cinema ality. Hosted by a range of venues across the city from No- Russia In Your Pocket Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз. No98. fans young and old will have the opportunity to watch The Для детей старше 16 лет. 01.12.2014 vember 14th to December 14th, the Biennale’s programme Snowman and 2001: A Space Odyssey screened to the live includes lectures by world-renowned architects, as well as accompaniment of a full symphony orchestra. Another fes- a number of feature exhibitions created by both Russian About IYP tival highlight will be the appearance of one of the most and international designers. For further information, please ESTONIA in-demand tenors of the moment, Jonas Kaufmann, per- visit www.spbmuseumdesign.ru LATVIA RUSSIA Not content with publishing more than 100 forming pieces by Schumann, Wagner and Liszt. www. NORTHERN LITHUANIA philharmonia.spb.ru IRELAND guides to cities across three continents, In Your IRELAND BELARUS NETHERLANDS Pocket is currently preparing a new round of POLAND Long Winter Holidays GERMANY UKRAINE expansion for 2015. New cities due to be po- BELGIUM CZECH The rest of the world may still decide to pop into work for a REPUBLIC cketed include Rotterdam in the Netherlands, AUSTRIA few days between Christmas and New Year, principally to de- HUNGARY SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA while some old favourites, such as Budapest in tox from the former and prepare for the latter, but Russia once SLOVENIACROATIA ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad again cements its reputation as the land of plenty by generous- BULGARIA MONTENEGRO ly bestowing a solid week and a half of rest and recuperation on FYR MACEDONIA will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand ALBANIA new digital platform to look forward to. its mildly hungover citizens. This year, the national holidays run GREECE from New Year’s Day to January 11th, while the particularly de-

DUTCH In order to make sure you keep up with all vout might also want to plan a half-day for the 13th to celebrate CARIBBEAN SOUTH that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook Old New Year in accordance with the Russian Orthodox Calen- AFRICA (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on dar. The 25th and 26th of December remain normal working Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). days, inasmuch as this is ever practically possible. Read more on the celebration of Russian Christmas on page 22. 4 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 5 Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around

St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro sys- The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get tem is amazing - both attractive and efficient - and is the of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply fastest way to get across town or into the centre of the city. there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Elec- If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km trichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs be- Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit way from the metro station to your destination you have a tween 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky. choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the 500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English, band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wander- routes and when to get off, they make getting around the which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy. ing the aisle with just what you need. city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road more comfortable, you can always take a taxi. conditions often force you to drive more carefully and Baltisky station thus more slowly. QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Arriving in town Arriving by plane Finlyandsky station Arriving by bus St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport www.ozd.rzd.ru. know where you are going before you leave. offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal Ladozhsky station The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for ATM QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you ur- 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru. a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town gently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee Moskovsky station and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr. and cake before being collected or trying to find your way QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru. metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into known to cause heart failure! Vitebsky station the metro system. To find your way into the city centre Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru. have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops. (another seven stops in the metro – about 15-20 minutes). Public transport The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of metro station or take a taxi. of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the met- system if you need to find a particular station. ro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners Arriving by car If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi driv- from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolley- above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remem- ers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl bus) and up to 36Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current ber the following: your National and International Driver’s and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight. and following stop. Routes are indicated on window plac- licence, registration and insurance documents for the car on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reason- Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and ards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At able price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl. there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is driver. route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled Arriving by train St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those they go just about everywhere within the city and out to not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h. metro station nearest your destination. to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a to- (up to 36Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you. for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank. the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland ken (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozha- arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro luista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt. station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change sta- Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia tions. There are underground passageways linking adjacent arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations. stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny TaxiS There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The met- can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush English-speaking operators but in many big companies ro system will be closed for the night, so better take a taxi. hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you you can book a taxi online: can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com Read more online: and queue-cutting. Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru www.inyourpocket.com/ Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg. russia/st-petersburg/arriving the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leather- nyt.ru 6 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 7 City Basics Language

Be on guard! useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking Basic frases loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and Thank you Spasibo Спасибо don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the Eng- lish language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините (+7) 812 303 05 55. pocket dictionary: Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can Vatrushka I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю help you file a police report. Your consulate can help A vatrushka is a sweet Do you speak Vy gavaritye Вы говорите you if your passport has been stolen. The police here doughnut shaped Russian English? pa-anglisky? по-английски? generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy pastry, which is typically Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry filled with sweet cottage a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check cheese (tvorog) or jam. I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу Mnye (ne) Мне (не) Russians all the time too) then show them the photo- Their western equivalent is I (don't) like it copy rather than the original. often said to be the Danish nravitsa нравится pastry, although Russian May I? Mozhno? Можно? vatrushki are made with a Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? Registration yeastier bread dough and Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of can also be found with sa- I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holi- voury fillings. In honour of their resemblance to the sweet How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? days). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 treat, those giant inflatable rubber rings which kids and Good Khorosho Хорошо hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. adults like to bound down snowy hillsides on are also called If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious vatrushka. Today Sevodnya Сегодня problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to miss- Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра ing your flight while officials interrogate you. numbers Toilets Tualet Туалет Ostanavite Остановите, 1 adin 11 adinatsat 30 tritsat Stop here please Money pazhalusta пожалуйста 2 dva 12 dvinatsat 40 sorok The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come When? Kogda? Когда? 3 tri 13 trinatsat 50 pyatdesyat in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a 4 chetyre 14 chetyrnatsat 60 shesdesyat Of course Koneshno Конечно rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to 5 pyat 15 pyatnatsat 70 semdesyat pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! 6 shest 16 shesnatsat 80 vosemdesyat banks and large hotels. Password Parol Пароль 7 sem 17 semnatsat 90 devyanosta Foreigner Prices 8 vosem 18 vosemnatsat 100 sto 9 devyat 19 devyatnatsat 500 pyatsot The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and 10 desyat 20 dvatsat 1000 tysicha museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times The St. Petersburg Times is the premier English-lan- more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist guage newspaper in St. Petersburg, Russia. Published that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the alphabet weekly, the newspaper covers local, national and in- ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you ternational news as well as business, the arts, sports, work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price. А A З Z П P Ч CH entertainment and much else that is of interest to both Б B И I Р R Ш SH residents and visitors to Russia’s cultural capital. В V Й Y С S Щ SHCH Alcohol Issued every Wednesday, the paper features expert The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. Г G К K Т T Ы Y commentary on the country’s changing political and The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, fol- Д D Л L У U Э E economic landscape and provides valuable insight lowed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popu- Е E М M Ф F Ю YU into the issues that frequently grab the world’s atten- lar alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovetskoe shampanskoe tion. Available at St. Petersburg’s top hotels, restaurants Ё YO Н N Х KH Я YA (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note and business centers citywide, as well as at important that you cannot buy alcohol above 0,5% in shops between Ж ZH О O Ц TS Ъ, Ь no sound international events. 22:00 and 11:00. 8 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 9 Culture & Events Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After spending a 04.12 Thursday day hoofing it through the finest museums and histori- DEcember events 20:00 Enrique Iglesias cal locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, circus 04.12 Thursday It’s going to be a hot win- performance, rock or pop concerts any and every night 19:00 Aquarium ter in St. Petersburg this THE ART OF NATURAL THERAPY you choose. Boris Grebenshchikov, the “Father of Russian Rock”, and year, as one of the world’s his celebrated group Aquarium kick off their most recent most famous Spanish sing- tour of Russia with a concert in their home city. Greben- ers prepares to bring his theatres shchikov’s over 40-year career has taken him from under- passion to Russia. Enrique Alexandrinsky Theatre ground concerts in Leningrad apartments all the way to Iglesias’ musical career QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 worldwide fame. Grebenshchikov’s current sound deftly has developed tremen- 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru. pulls from a wide variety of genres - from reggae to Ameri- dously over the last few Mariinsky Theatre can folk. Performing with the rock legend are longtime years, and he has become QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 Aquarium members and collaborators Alexander Titov, a true phenomenon in the 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Aleksey Zubarev and Andrey Surotdinov, as well as key- world of music. Touring to Mikhailovsky Theatre boardist Boris Rubekin, percussionist Oleg Shavkunov, Irish promote his tenth studio album “Sex and Love“, Enrique QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 flutist Brian Finnegan and British rock brothers, Paul and has branched out into new genres to reach a wider audi- 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Jeremy Stacey.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Li- ence. “Sex and Love“ also features guest performances by Saint Petersburg Opera govsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, other famous artists including Kiley Minogue and Flo Rida. QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 www.aquarium.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 7,000Rbl. Let’s just hope the Ice Palace can stand the heat.QLedovy A SANCTUARY 67 69, www.spbopera.ru. Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.enriqueiglesias.com. Tickets 1,500 OF SERENITY concert halls and clubs - 10,000Rbl. AND SENSES Aurora concert hall 05.12 Friday WORLD KNOWN HOLISTIC SPA QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 20:00 Leningrad IN THE HEART OF THE CITY 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru. Sergei Shnurov, or “Shnur”, is known for being a rock Nevsky Centre, 6 floor, Nevsky pr,114-116 Club A2 pioneer - as front man of the Ska-punk band Leningrad QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 since 1997, Shnur has never been afraid to go where no +7 812 449 08 36, +7 911 293 00 27 309 99 22, www.a2.fm. man has gone before. He’s been known to perform naked, www.thann-spa.ru Club Cosmonavt use more profanities in his lyrics than seems possible, and QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Insti- generally voice what many may be thinking, but for what- 06.12 Saturday tut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su. 04.12 Thursday ever reason won’t say aloud. Leave your shy head bobbing 19:00 Zveri Grand Philharmonic Hall 20:00 Andru Donalds at home and get ready for a high-energy performance Since their creation in 2001, the pop-rock group Zveri QD-2, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Jamaican born singer/songwriter Andru Donalds is known where Shnur’s gravelly voice and Leningrad’s beloved has played over 900 concerts, journeyed more than 710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. today as a lead vocalist in the German musical project brass section are sure to make you more than just tap your one million kilometres and won numerous Russian and Jazz Philharmonic Hall Enigma. However, Enigma is a studio-only group, so it’s feet.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshe- foreign awards. The band’s name, literally “Beasts” in QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 truly a rare and valuable chance to hear one of the group’s vikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.sosimc.ru. Tickets Russian, comes from the nickname of lead singer, Roma 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. most beautiful voices live in concert. Donalds has both 1,000 - 4,000Rbl. Zver. For the past year, the group has traveled to places JFC Jazz Club the natural talent and high-level of training that make a they’d never been before. But they made sure to save QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) vocalist truly great. Even before his Enigma days, Donalds’ 05.12 Friday their most exciting show of the year for Piter. Not only 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. solo-produced singles, including “Mishale” and “Save Me 23:00 DJ Format is Saturday night the band’s last show of the year, but Jimi Hendrix Blues Club Now”, became worldwide hits. His solo work was also in- From the streets of Brigh- it is also the eve of Roma’s 37th birthday. So come help QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 cluded in the soundtracks of the Oscar-winning American ton, England, UK hip-hop them celebrate, Petersburg-style.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru. film Good Will Hunting and German blockbuster Barfuss. artist Matt Ford, better Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, Ledovy Dvorets QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 known as DJ Format, ar- www.zve.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl. QPr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 303 33 33, www.facebook.com/andrudonalds. Tickets rives in St. Petersburg this 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru. 1,320 - 3,850Rbl. December for a night of Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) beats and rhymes at Birzha QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 Bar. DJ Format, whose 13 00, www.bkz.ru. debut album “Music for Sport Concert Complex (SKK) the Mature B-Boy” was QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 released in 2002, is known 10, www.spbckk.ru. around the world for his Yubileiny Sports Palace mix of old school hip-hop beats, funk and soul as well as, QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) in his most recent work, psychedelic rock, jazz and blues. 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru. He frequently collaborates with Canadian rapper/hip-hop Zal Ozhidaniya artists Abdominal and D-sisive.QC-2, Birzha Bar, Birzhe- QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. voy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com. www.djformat.com. Tickets 500Rbl. 10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 11 Culture & Events Culture & Events 06.12 Saturday 07.12 Sunday 13.12 Saturday 16.12 Tuesday 20:00 Matisyahu 19:00 Dima Bilan 19:00 Vanessa Mae 20:00 Splean As a devoutly Orthodox reg- The first Russian to win the “Eurovision” song contest with Think winter fairytales and One the most-loved bands in Russia and the former So- gae rapper, Matthew Miller, his single “Believe me” (2008), Dima Bilan has since won Christmas miracles. Against viet bloc since 1994, Splean is a pop-/alt-rock group whose better known by his Hebrew over millions of fans with his powerful voice, heart-felt lyr- a backdrop of snow-dusted evolving sound has never failed to impress its listeners. This stage name Matisyahu, is ics and rugged good looks. Bilan’s latest show is named mountains, world-renowned year, Splean released a new album, “Resonance”, in two truly in a league of his own. in honor of his age: he turns 33 at the end of December. violinist and Olympic al- parts, which the band is promoting on their current tour. The world-acclaimed musi- But, as Bilan surely knows, 33 is no random number, but an pine skier Vanessa-Mae will Continuing the band’s tradition of literary play (“Splean” is cian is known for his unique historically magical and powerful one. The show promises perform works from the a reference to a poem by Sasha Cherny), Part One of “Reso- style and sound, incorporat- to live up to its magical portent: Bilan hasn’t revealed all great composers, including nance” is chock full of literary and musical allusions. How- ing biblical and Orthodox the details of the performance yet, leaving room to dazzle Vivaldi, Bach and Paganini, ever, nothing too esoteric; discussing the new album, band- Jewish themes into a blend his guests.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bol- accompanied by a string leader Alexander Vasilyev highlights its simplicity of form, of reggae, rock, hip-hop shevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.bilandima.ru. orchestra and choir. The mentioning Borges’ philosophies for comparison.QLedovy and traditional Jewish music. In 2011, Matisyahu shaved Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl. “princess of violin” launched her musical career at the tender Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 his famous beard as part of his personal journey into a new age of nine. She has since grown from child prodigy to full- 380 80 50, www.splean.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. spiritual and artistic phase of his life. His latest album “Ake- 12.12 Friday fledged star, not to mention Olympic athlete. She has both dah”, the name for the biblical story of the binding of Isaac, 20:00 Einstürzende Neubauten mastered the classical violin as well as created her very own 19.12 Friday was recorded in Israel and released in June 2014.QD-1, Club For the first time after an contemporary sound, what she calls “violin techno-acoustic 20:00 Evgenia Zima Band A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 almost seven-year pause, fusion”, which has won her prestigious awards and honors Evgenia Zima - vocalist, vio- 22, www.matisyahuworld.com. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. the legendary German around the world.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, linist and self-proclaimed cul- post-industrial-noise- Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, tivator of band “drive” - calls 06.12 Saturday experimental-electronic www.vanessamae.com. Tickets 900 - 5,000Rbl. her band’s music “a cocktail 20:00 Nina Karlsson group celebrates the re- of sounds and euphoria”. Singer Nina Karlsson was cent release of their latest 13.12 Saturday They’re known for their vi- born in St. Petersburg and project, “Lament”. The new 19:00 Diana Arbenina brant, emotionally-charged, graduated from the Saint album is a product of the For Diana Arbenina and her band Nochnie Snauperi, 2014 fuzzy jazz sound that trans- Petersburg Conservatory. group’s years of research has been a year of celebrations. Arbenina celebrated her ports audiences to the for- Her voice, however, is more on the First World War, 40th birthday, released her first solo album, and per- gotten realm of childhood than just highly-trained. composed of and inspired by historical fragments from formed in strange and new places, like in an Amsterdam imagination and memory - to Since 2008 she has been their findings, which have been pieced together into a church and on a Moscow rooftop. Not to mention, the “happiness in its pure form”. The band uses instruments and performing her unique fu- performative production. The album also exemplifies the group, which Arbenina co-founded in 1993, restructured languages from many cultures, while also infusing their music sion of jazz, rock and folk. group’s use of alternative sound-generating objects that at the end of last year, and has since been creating new with a mix of genres, including rythm’n’ blues, hip-hop and Her incredible voice can create their particular, difficult to categorize sound. Take songs and rearranging old ones. Help welcome them back swing. The best place to experience the Petersburg-based move between a wide note, “Lament” was chiefly designed for live performance, to their home city, where they will be performing in Pe- group’s undeniably good vibes would be in an intimate ven- range of almost physical sensations and textures, from ut- since the experience of the project is more than just an tersburg’s Ice Palace for the first time.QLedovy Dvorets, ue in their home city - just what Birzha Bar has to offer.QC-2, ter tenderness and delicacy to unbridled power. Come to aural one.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrograds- pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 Birzha Bar, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) her concert for her and her band’s musical talent, but stay kaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.neubauten.org. Tick- 50, www.snipers.net. Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl. 812 925 88 06, www.zimaband.ru. Tickets TBA. for the atmosphere she will undoubtedly create - a warm, ets 1,500 - 2,600Rbl. inviting, gentle and fun-loving performer, she’s absolutely 15.12 Monday 20.12 Saturday guaranteed to warm your heart on a cold winter’s night. 12.12 Friday 20:00 AYO 19:00 Emin QC-2, Birzha Bar, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovs- 20:00 Natalia Oreiro She was born in Germany Born in Baku and raised in kaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.ninakarlsson.com. The Uruguayan actress as Joy Olasunmibo Ogun- Moscow, it was in the US Tickets 500 - 700Rbl. and singer occupies a spe- makin and later took the that Emin’s career got a sig- cial place in the hearts of Yoruba translation of her nificant boost when he got 06.12 Saturday many Russians. Oreiro first name, “Ayo”, in honor of her to experience his first live 20:00 Tiger Lillies gained her fame, and her Nigerian roots. The singer- performance. Emin’s mu- To confine the British trio to a single musical genre would be Russian fanbase, acting in songwriter is known for her sic spans a wide range of an injustice - part surreal vaudeville, part Brechtian cabaret several popular Argentin- smooth, soulful voice and genres, taking in everything and part gypsy punk is a passable start. Add to the mix lead ean soap operas in the 90s. heart-wrenching lyrics. Her from dance with a dash of vocalist and founder Martyn Jacques’ haunting and sorrow- She kicked off her musical style is a mesmerizing med- electronic to classical bal- ful falsetto and the trio’s wide assortment of instruments, career with the release of ley of soul, jazz, folk, reggae and rock. Her debut album “Joyful” lads. With a cv including per- including accordian and saw, and you have a recipe for a her first solo album in 1998. (2006) received Double-Platinum, Patinum and Gold statuses formances at Eurovision an opening set for Jennifer Lopez, twisted, garish good time. The band arrives in St. Peters- Since then, she has gone on to build her career in film and in Europe. Not only has AYO’s musical talent received interna- not to mention a handful of Grammy nominations, Emin burg with one of their latest albums, entitled “Either Or”. If music, landing leading roles and playing sold out concerts tional recognition, but her humanitarion efforts have also been has certainly earned his stripes as an artist. His new album you’re curious what a night that combines blasphemous all over the world. For the many Russians who grew up honored: in 2009 she was appointed international ambas- “Amor“ combines Spanish flamenco and guitar music to cre- clownery and Kierkagardian philosphy looks like, be sure watching and listening to Oreiro, this concert will be a sador of UNICEF for the promotion of the right to education ate a flavourful mix of music dedicated to the most impor- to save the date.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. chance for both nostalgia and surprise.QLedovy Dvorets, for all children.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, tant feeling of all - love.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 www.tigerlillies.com. Tickets 1,300 - 2,500Rbl. 50, www.nataliaoreiro.com. Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl. ayomusic.com. Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl. 50, www.emin-music.com. Tickets 600 - 3,500Rbl. 12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 13 Culture & Events Culture & Events 21.12 Sunday 27.12 Saturday - 29.11 Saturday through 27.12 Saturday Johann Strauss Snow White Ball Show The Ugly Duckling Tim Parshikov. Kotlovan MONET to cezanne If you appreciate classical music and dance, the Johann Like Andrey Platonov’s symbolic novel of the same name, Strauss Snow White Ball Show is the one event this season Time Parshikov’s solo photography exhibit, “Kotlovan” that you really don’t want to miss. Featuring some of Rus- (translated as “the foundation pit”), tells the story of a post- sia’s finest solo artists and dance groups, the show aims industrial factory city. In Parshikov’s case, it is the city of to create a magical evening for all of its guests, and if you Magnitogorsk in the Southern Urals. The city was the first come dressed in white you will even receive a special New monogorod - a city built for a factory - in the USSR, a prod- Years’ gift. Do not expect to just sit and watch the show, uct of Stalin’s first Five-Year Plan. Today Manitogorsk is one as well-known compositions such as the Radetzky March of the dirtiest cities in the world and its almost half a mil- will allow you to participate in this spectacle. If you have lion residents live under a sky screened by factory smog. In plans to celebrate the holiday season in St. Petersburg, his photographs, Parshikov captures the post-apocalyptic keep an eye out for this event.QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek This New Year’s the creators of “Darwin the Dinosaur” re- atmosphere of a city in which time seems to have come to 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo. turn to St. Petersburg for another brilliant performance. a standstill.QD-4, Marina Gisich Gallery, Nab. reky Fon- spb.ru. Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl. The American troupe Lightwire Theater presents their tanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www. show “The Ugly Duckling”, based on the beloved fable gisich.com. Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Admission free. by Hans Christian Andersen. The touching, timeless story 20.11 Thursday - 31.03 Tuesday is brought to life by the incredible technical mastery of Monet to Cezanne - Lightwire Theater’s signature electroluminescent pup- the French Impressionists petry. The entire show, including the opening act, a stag- From the creators and organizers of “Van Gogh Alive” ing of “The Tortoise and the Hare”, is performed without comes a new multimedia exhibition-event - the world words, in the universal language of gesture, emotion and premier of “Monet to Cezanne - the French Impression- music. The show is extremely family friendly, especially ists”. St. Petersburg will be the first city in the world to suited for children ages three to eight.QDK Gorkogo, pl. view this stunning new project by Australian company Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, www. Grand Exhibitions, brought to St. Petersburg by IVision, lightwiretheater.com. Tickets 900 - 1,900Rbl. the company’s exclusive Russian representatives. The exhibition breaks far beyond the boundaries of the cinema usual gallery-spectator experience. Using the latest Exhibitions SENSORY 4 TM technology, including large-scale pro- If you are looking for a night at the movies without through 13.09.2015 Sunday through 14.01 Wednesday jections on dozens of screens, multi-channel animated having to play some sophisticated form of charades “The ball roars, the ball gleams…” St. Petersburg in the work of 19th graphics and surround sound, the gallery-space is ut- to work out what’s going on - we have good news for St. Petersburg Social Entertainment century German Photographers terly transformed into an immersive, participatory expe- you. There are now cinemas in St. Petersburg that show in the 18th-20th centuries Part of the history of St. Petersburg is the history of the city’s rience, where the ‘viewer’ is able to literally step into and movies in English or their original language. If you are With over 300 displays from the State Museum of St. Peters- representation in foreign art. The photographic exhibition walk through the painted worlds of the French Impres- looking for a truly English experience you can’t pass burg History and the Russian National Library, this exhibition currently on display in the Peter and Paul Fortress was orga- sionist masters. Projections of pieces by Monet, Renoir, up a screening at the Angleterre which now shows submerges visitors in the infamous center of the Imperial nized within the context of the project “Fotorossika”, whose Degas, Cezanne and others reveal subtle details and all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula capital’s social life - the ball. At the heart of the exhibit are the goal is the study of foreign-produced photo-iconography of unexpected angles and transport viewers back to the Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora. splendor and luxury of ball attire and accessories. Photo- Russia. The work of German photographers of the Imperial streets of 19th century Paris, re-creating the bright bo- Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect graphs, posters and advertisements are also on display and capital plays a particularly significant role in the formation hemian atmosphere with colors, light and shadow, ac- to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if demonstrate the incredible variety of Petersburg balls over of the 19th-early 20th century photo-iconography of the companied by the music of Debussy, Tchaikovsky, Ravel you want to chill out with a good movie in English or time, from the Imperial through the early Soviet eras. The ex- city. The exhibition is composed of about 80 photographs and Offenbach. Not only is the show completely immer- practice one of your other languages, check out these hibit also features interactive events, including lectures on the of the city, taken by four 19th century German photogra- sive - it is also interactive: keep your eye out for the live- cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies. history of ball attire and master classes, where you can learn phers, who worked in widely different genres, including feed Twitter-wall (#monet2cezanne) and the “School to dance the waltz or communicate in the secret language of photo-portraiture and reportage.QD-2, Peter and Paul of Impressionism” art-zone, where you can make your Angleterre Cinema Lounge fans and decorative flowers.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www. own attempts to paint like the masters.QB-3, Lenexpo QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum. spbmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Exhibition Complex, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, pavilion 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Tickets 80 - 150Rbl. MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 791 58 28. Open angleterrecinema.ru. 11:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Tickets 350Rbl, Avrora Sat and Sun 450Rb. Family ticket (2 adults plus 1 or 2 QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 kids) 900/1,000Rbl, Sat and Sun 1,000/1,100Rbl. 80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru. Dom Kino QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru. Formula Kino Galeria QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www. formulakino.ru.

14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 15 Culture & Events Features through 03.02 Tuesday 03.12 Wednesday - 01.02 Sunday А dedication to Mikhail Matyushin Drevlekhranilishche: Archive The Museum of the Peters- of Monuments of Russian Icon-painting burg Avant-garde presents and Ecclesiastical Art an exhibition honoring 80 The Russian Museum pres- years since the death of ents an exhibition in cel- Russian painter, art theorist, ebration of 100 years since musician, composer and the opening of the Drev- teacher, Mikhail Vasilevich lekhranilishche in honor Matyushin. Matyushin was of Emporer Nikolai II. The born in Nizhny Novgorod exhibition of around 600 in 1861. In the 1910s-20s, he works tells the story of the was an active participant in formation of the Museum’s the Russian Futurist move- collection of ecclesiasti- ment and with his own group “Zorved” experimented with cal antiques from 1897 to perceptions of color, form and space, forming the founda- 1914. Before the museum tional principles of the “organic school” of the Russian avant- first opened its doors in garde. The current exhibition in Matyushin’s honor features 1898, and until 1914, the Museum’s collection of ancient offers a production of Rimsky-Korsakov’s opera Christmas 28 pieces from eleven artists, in whose works are visible icons and ecclesiastical pieces grew, both from private St. Petersburg Theatre life Eve, which first premiered at the Mariinsky on December contemporary re-workings of ideas and principles that Ma- donations and from state-sanctioned searches for ancient It would be a shame to come to Russia’s cultural capital and 10, 1895, though this particular production only premiered tyushin introduced and developed in the beginning of the pieces. The works will be grouped according to the collec- not partake in any of the city’s wide array of theater, music on December 31, 2008. The show will open December 17th 20th century.QD-1, Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant- tions they came from and the exhibition space is designed and dance offerings. This winter season the city is brim- and will be performed in Russian with synchronised Eng- garde, ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. to recreate the atmosphere of the first Museum exhibi- ming with holiday cheer and festive New Year’s season pro- lish subtitles. For the less holiday-inspired, the Mariinsky (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - tions in 1898 and 1914.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois ductions. Now is the time to catch an unforgettable show presents its production of the timeless classic Swan Lake. 18:00, Fri 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed. Tickets 60 - 100Rbl. Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) at an unforgettable venue. Inspired by the ballet writing of Delibes, Tchaikovsky com- 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, If you’ve heard anything about St. Petersburg, you will posed most of the ballet in just one year, using the idea through 01.03 Sunday Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 150 - 350Rbl. have heard of the legendary Mariinsky Theatre of Leitmotif, famously made popular in Wagner’s operatic Alexander Samokhvalov. 1894-1971 (www.mariinsky.ru). Opened in 1860 and now in its writing, to bring out distinctive melodies weaving the story The Russian Museum presents a solo exhibition of the 06.12 Saturday - 30.01 Friday 232nd season, the theatre was home to premieres of together. Despite the premiere in 1877 being something of works of Soviet painter Alexander Nikolaevich Samokh- Samurai. 47 Ronin works by many of the Russian greats, like Tchaikovsky, a flop, the ballet’s enduring popularity means it will surely valov (1894-1971). The exhibition is a full retrospective of A rōnin is a samurai with Mussorgsky and Rimsky Korsakov. On the site of a burnt never leave the Mariinsky. This year’s production is based the artist’s works, consisting of over 250 pieces. Samokh- no master. The 18th cen- down Equestrian Circus, the architect Albert Cavos de- on the Kirov Theatre’s own 1950 premiere of Konstantin valov is best known for his work during the 1920s-1930s, tury Japanese legend of signed a new opera and ballet theatre to be the largest Sergeyev’s choreography. More from the revered Tchaiko- when he painted his most recognized monumental patri- the 47 rōnin is a tragic and of its kind in the world, with a full capacity of 1,625. In vsky comes in the form of the opera Eugene Onegin, the otic paintings of Soviet youth and the New Soviet Person. powerful story of revenge 1886, after the Bolshoy Kamenny Theatre was deemed Kirov’s own 1982 version, with helpful English subtitles to Though the exhibition will pay special attention to this and honor. On December unsafe, Mariinsky was lavishly renovated as the new guide you through the full length of this Russian master- fundamental period of Samokhvalov’s work, it will also 6th, the St. Petersburg Ar- home of the Imperial Ballet and played host to many of piece. Also appearing on Mariinsky’s main stage this winter display the full breadth of his artistic mastery, including tillery Museum presents premiere shows from the master choreographer, Marius is Marius Petipa’s version of the fantasy ballet Giselle, with his work in mediums other than painting and graphic art, an immersive, interactive Petipa. Originally named after Empress Maria Alexan- music from Adolphe Adam. such as sculpture, porcelain painting, posters and archi- exhibition-project that will drovna, wife of Tsar Alexander II, the theatre was known tectural drawings.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, transport visitors to the throughout most of the Soviet era as the Kirov Theatre, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 world of ancient Japan, but changed to its present name, the State Academic 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu where the legend of the 47 rōnin took place. The exhibi- Mariinsky Theatre, in 1992. The world renowned conduc- 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 150 - 350Rbl. tion brings together rare displays, never-before-seen arti- tor Valery Gergiev has presided over affairs there since facts, and the best pieces from the preceding exhibition, 1988, meeting the Russian public’s high demand with a “Samurai. The Art of War.” In a recreated Edo city, visitors stream of almost constant concerts. Since 2007, Gergiev are invited to participate in expert-led master classes, has had to juggle his role at the Mariinsky with another dress in traditional Samurai costumes, use the Samurai prestigious role as Principal Conductor of the London sword, learn calligraphy, origami, engraving and kimono Symphony Orchestra, making him one of the busiest and wearing.QD-2, Artillery Museum, Aleksandrovsky park certainly best travelled conductors around today. 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, Those looking for a classic holiday Mariinsky experience will In recent years, the Mariinsky has begun to colonise the tel. (+7) 812 610 33 01, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open jump straight to this season’s production of Tchaikovsky’s surrounding area - the sleek contemporary walls of glass 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 150 - 400Rbl. masterpiece, The Nutcracker. The ballet first premiered in which peer out behind the back of the main theatre con- the then Kirov Theatre on February 18, 1934. This season, stitute the hall’s sparkling new younger brother, the Mari- the ballet will be performed by the Vaganova Academy of insky II. The hall’s interior curves back in a horseshoe For all the latest concert, event and Russian Ballet, with Vasily Vainonen’s 1934 choreography. shape from the main stage with clean lines and wood exhibition news follow us on facebook at Delighting generations of viewers, young and old, The Nut- paneling, and the fantastic new acoustics and technology www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket cracker is the perfect festive treat for the whole family. For have been duly noted by all reviewers. The bright interior the holiday-minded but more opera-inclined, the Mariinsky breathes elegance over a crowd enjoying a glass of pre- 16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 17 Features Features

concert champagne and the performances themselves The lavish luxury of the Mikhailovsky Theatre (www. This fall saw the premier of the theatrical masterpiece, range from classic repertoire to more contemporary works mikhailovsky.ru) echoes the elegance of the Mariinsky “Memories of the future”, based on Mikhail Lermontov’s completely at home in the setting. and, with an admirable history from its founding in 1833, original drama “Masquerade”. This production is directed This season, the Mariinsky II proudly presents its own new can proudly declare itself one of Russia’s most distin- by the Alexandrinsky’s artistic director and people’s artist version of Tchaikovsky’s Eugene Onegin, premiered in Feb- guished performance venues. Named after Grand Duke of Russia, Valery Fokin, and was carefully re-constructed ruary 2014 as a co-production with the National Centre for Mikhail Pavlovich of Russia, the theatre was established and staged following Vsevolod Meyerhold’s 1917 per- the Performing Arts (Beijing). A marriage of the music of after a decree from Tsar Nicholas I, and played host to vis- formance. This incredible project provided the opening the celebrated Russian composer Rodion Shchedrin and iting French companies until the Bolsheviks took power performance for the theatre’s Eighth International Theatre the choreographer Aleksey Ratmansky appears on the in 1917. In a somewhat contentious move, the Russian Festival in celebration of 200 years since Mikhail Lermon- Mariinsky II’s new playbill in the form of the ballet Anna businessman Vladimir Kekhman was appointed as the tov’s birth. Be sure not to miss your chance to see this ex- Karenina, based on Tolstoy’s novel, with Ratmansky’s 2010 theatre’s General Director, and fortunately poured 1 billion citing and important production this winter season. choreography. A production of Puccini’s Madama Butterfly, roubles into the theatre’s refurbishment before winding The dazzling white columns and glittering chandeliers of which premiered at the Mariinsky in 2005, will run several up bankrupt in London in 2012. the St. Petersburg Shostakovich Academic Phil- The Tovstonogov Bol- performances over the winter, ranking seventh in the most This winter season, the theatre presents a host of exciting harmonia (www.philharmonia.spb.ru) distinguishes shoy Drama Theatre, performed operas worldwide. This fall, the Mariinsky host- recently-premiered shows and events. The opera Manon the space before the music even starts. The architectur- or BDT (www.bdt.spb. ed the world premiere of director Alain Maratrat’s produc- Lescaut, considered one of Giacomo Puccini’s finest works, ally notable venue has seen some of the finest perform- ru), on the Fontanka takes tion of Rossini’s Il Barbiere di Siviglia, widely regarded as the which premiered at the Mikhailovsky in October, returns to ers from not only Russia but all over the world since the its name from Georgy opera buffa of all ‘opere buffe’. The opera will be performed the stage on December 2nd and 3rd. The opera was origi- 1840s and continues to offer high-class performances. A Tovstonogov, the theatre’s through December 21st. nally staged in 1893 in Turin and the libretto is based on the busy forthcoming programme includes chamber music, highly regarded director 1753 novel L’histoire du Chevalier des Grieux et de Manon orchestral works and jazz, featuring many international from 1956 to 1989, and is Lescaut by the Abbé Prévost. The Mikhailovsky’s new pro- acts and both of the hall’s residents, the St. Petersburg considered one of the fin- duction of the piece, created by Jurgen Flimm and George Philharmonic or Symphony Orchestras. est theatres in Russia. Pio- Tsypin, adapts the opera’s setting from eighteenth century The coming months include a wide array of jazz and classic neered by Maxim Gorky, to early twentieth century Paris. The original ‘emotional performances, a celebration of the 100th anniversary of Ave- Maria Andreeva, Alexander content’ of the opera is retained, but presented afresh with nir Mikhailov, another celebration of the 150th anniversary Blok and Anatoly Lunacharsky after the 1917 revolution, film noir-esque lighting, set design and costumes. of Alexander Siloti, a festival from the St. Petersburg Philhar- the Osobaya Drammaticheskaya Truppa (Special Drama Just a week after this incredible premiere, on December monic Orchestra, running from December 14th to December Company) debuted in 1918 with the intention of staging 11, the Theatre presents the last staging for the year of 25th, as well as a Festive New Years Concert performed by classics for the masses, and eventually found its perma- the opera masterpiece Il trovatore, which premiered at the the State Hermitage Orchestra with baritone Vasily Garello nent home at 65 Fontanka embankment, at the former Mikhailovsky in November. This particular production, cre- and a New Year’s Eve Concert on December 30th and 31st by Suvorin Theatre. This September, the BDT celebrated its ated by Dmitri Tcherniakov, was first staged in 2012 at the the St. Petersburg Symphony Orchestra. reopening after several years of closure for renovation and However, the new addition to the family, the Mariinsky II, La Monnaie Theatre in Brussels and became one of Europe’s reconstruction. Make sure to visit the theatre and experi- ought not to overshadow the Mariinsky Concert Hall, most widely discussed opera productions. ence this season’s offerings in the newly-renovated space. just a stone’s throw away on Ulitsa Dekabristov- a world On the 5th and 7th of December, the theatre presents class chamber concert hall in its own right. Opened in international ballet project Kings of Dance, presenting In 1944 the Maly Drama 2006 on the site of the hundred-year-old set workshops for work from dancers and choreographers from all over the Theatre (www.mdt- the Mariinsky Theatre, which were damaged in a fire, the planet. Family favorites at Mikhailovsky this Decmber in- dodin.ru) took upon its hall’s contemporary interior makes for the highest-quality clude a production of The Nutcracker, with choreography shoulders the important acoustics, while still retaining the old facade that survived by Nacho Duato, as well as Karen Khachaturian’s children’s burden of continuing the the fire. The hall competes with the finest contemporary ballet Cipollino, which will no doubt be a popular Sunday city’s theatre productions concert halls worldwide, such as Berlin’s Philharmonie, the hit for the younger generations. In addition, an operatic at a time when most com- Birmingham Symphony Hall and the Lucerne Concert Hall, production of Grimm’s classic fairytale, Hansel and Gretel, panies had been evacuat- and caters to the demands of a Mariinsky programme now premieres on December 13th. Finally, on December 31st, The title of oldest Russian national theatre is one that the ed. The theatre started life spilling over three venues. The Mikhailovsky presents its by now traditional New Year legendary Alexandrinsky Theatre (www.alexandrin- humbly performing as and The hall as usual features high profile acts from around the Gala Concert. The celebratory concert begins just six hours sky.ru) can boast. Established on August 30 1756, the when it could without a world as well as the resident Mariinsky orchestra, where classic before the start of 2015 and promises festive surprises and day of Saint Alexander Nevsky, the theatre was originally permanent home. Gradually picking up support from the Wagner Galas and Russian favourites will be the stars of the lots of pre-New Year’s energy. named after Alexandra Fyodorovna, wife of Nikolai I. The public, the theatre began to gather momentum through show. Benjamin Britten’s opera A Midsummer Night’s Dream imposing structure was designed by the popular Italian the involvement of Lev Dodin in 1974, who has served as returns to the Concert Hall after its premiere there in 2011 - en- architect, Carlo Rossi, who worked for most of his life in the theatre’s chief director since 1983 and artistic director tering the standard repertoire soon after its premiere in 1960, Russia, his legacy also including the bright white Yelagin since 2002. Also going by the name ‘Théâtre de l’Europe’, it is an exponent of Britten’s very specific subtle style, while not Palace and the Mikhailovsky Theatre. The theatre’s perfor- tourists will be pleased to know that English subtitles are being overtly dissonant. This season the Concert Hall will host mance history practically runs as an A to Z of the nation’s often offered here. The theatre regularly participates and the International Piano Festival, which opens on December greatest actors and directors; premieres of great works holds workshops in theatre festivals around the world, and 22nd and runs until December 28th. The festival opens with a from the likes of Aleksander Griboyedov, Aleksander Os- Dodin himself has taught at St. Petersburg State Theatre not-to-be-missed performance of works by Rimsky-Korsakov, trovsky, and Aton Chekhov have all taken place there. To Arts Academy since 1969 and holds the position of head Rachmaninoff and Scriabin, conducted by theatre director add to the venue’s star-studded history and graceful archi- of the stage direction department. The Chamber Stage Valery Gergiev and featuring soloist Daniil Trifonov on piano. tecture, the 250th anniversary of the theatre in 2006 her- auditorium, an intimate hall seating just fifty people, is the The modern Concert Hall’s impressive acoustics will hopefully alded the unveiling of new renovations, introducing 21st latest addition to the theatre - a space for young actors ensure that the festival continues for years to come. century technological capabilities to the historic venue. and directors to test their talents. 18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 19 Feature Features Winter in the northern capital is notoriously harsh; biting cold, restaurant in the 1860s. He composed the original gourmet ominous rooftop icicles, lots of snow and wind, very little sun- version from grouse, veal tongue, caviar, lettuce, capers and light. Many people might balk at the idea of visiting the city gherkins. The recipe for the salad, and for the dressing in in its potentially coldest, darkest time (e.g. December). But we particular, was kept a carefully guarded secret. One thing is beg to differ, and we hope you’ll soon see why. First things first, for certain, there were definitely no potatoes or tinned peas your visit can and should be seen as a rite of passage: you have involved! Over the years the recipe has changed with the the opportunity to experience the city as natives experience it, changing availability of different products. Today’s version every year. The summer’s famed White Nights really only give of the salad has travelled rather far from the original, and you a tiny glimpse into what it means to live in Peter’s city. And includes plentiful helpings of spam-like sausage and boiled beyond that, for those who’ve decided to brave the Russian vegetables, smothered in mayonnaise. winter – and that means you – we hope it will soon become Apart from salad Olivier, the New Year’s table traditionally clear that the cultural capital during the winter holidays is truly features a bountiful spread of other salads, such as the clas- a magical place in its own right. sic, also mayonnaise-drenched “herring under a fur coat” The cold of winter, however, is no fairytale. For your comfort and other assorted hot and cold snacks (zakuski). Along and safety, we recommend that you dress appropriately – with the savoury snacks, the table is piled with fruit that at and that means bundle up! If what you’ve brought isn’t quite one time was hard to come by in the winter months, such cutting it, you can always find some hand-crafted woollen as tangerines and pineapple. The national party drink is of goodies – socks, gloves, scarves, hats, mittens, you name it – course shampanskoe (champagne), which is generally from vendors that set up shop outside of the metros. also available in abundance and comes in several varieties, But enduring the Russian cold and dark and going home from bryut (dry) to the sickly sladkoe (sweet), to the most to tell the tale is not even close to the full story – Peters- popular, polusladkoe (semi-sweet). burg in the winter is an utterly transformed and undeniably gorgeous spectacle. This city knows how to look good in the dark. Taking a walk along the Neva embankment in the winter is an unforgettable, almost dreamlike experience. The Neva’s majestic waves are frozen mid crash, the illumi- nated buildings along the embankment are reflected in the ice-encrusted waves and the graceful bridges glitter and sparkle against a clear night sky. And that’s all before even considering the city’s monumen- tal preparations for Russia’s most-celebrated winter holi- day – the New Year. Already in December, the city begins to gather its strength for its most extravagant, celebratory time. The first ten days of January are officially declared non-labour days, so the entire country gets off work to cel- ebrate. Between the huge light constructions, epic firework Visit Grand Father Frost displays, hundreds of performances, shows and celebra- Despite its current status in some parts of the world as a WINTER HOLIDAYS tions, and a whole host of Russian New Year traditions – shopping-driven, capitalist free for all, the Christmas holi- from eating salad Olivier and tangerines to watching The day does in fact have religious significance. So, naturally, Irony of Fate – it would be impossible not to be both im- the celebration of Christmas was banned from Soviet soci- pressed and entertained during the holiday season. ety early on. In fact, in the early Soviet years, celebrations of IN ST. PETERSBURG Below you’ll find our recommendations for where to go and both the religious Christmas and the secular New Year were what to do to celebrate this holiday season in St. Petersburg. both forbidden, along with the beloved traditions of gift- Whether you’re looking to have an intimate family gather- giving and fir tree decorating. However, in 1935, the powers ing or to attend a huge public party, we want to make sure that were re-introduced the celebration of the New Year in you can celebrate the holidays however you’d like to. We’ve the Soviet Union and with it came all of the winter festivity Whoever said that permanent twilight put together a list of traditions, suggestions, activities and and holiday spirit of Christmas, not to mention many tra- events, from eating, shopping and family-friendly activities ditional Christmas symbols and rituals, transforming New and freezing wind should keep you from having to getting some holiday rest and relaxation, that will help you Year in Russia into the kind of mega-holiday it remains to make this holiday season one of the best yet. this day. The traditional Christmas tree became the yolka, a good time? That’s right: no one. So stop or New Year’s tree and under the tree, good little Russian children are left gifts from a magical, wintery fatherly fig- shivering, grab your hat and mittens – actually, A Russian New Year feast ure, known as Ded Moroz (Grand Father Frost). However, The first thing on any Russian’s list of must-have New Year’s Ded Moroz is more than simply a direct equivalent to the maybe a scarf as well – and join us as we look dishes is without question salad Olivier. Beyond Russia’s bor- famous ruddy-cheeked, white-bearded, jolly man of Christ- ders, Olivier is also known simply as “Russian salad”. The sea- mas legend, sometimes called Father Christmas or Santa at the best of what St. Petersburg has on sonal treat was named after its alleged creator, French chef Claus. In fact, quite to the contrary. Before he was associ- Lucien Olivier, who was touted as a fashionable gourmet of ated with Christmas or New Year’s, Ded Moroz originally offer for the hardy and the hearty. 19th century Moscow, heading up the exclusive Hermitage appeared in Slavic mythology as an evil spirit, who personi- 20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 21 Features Features

the holiday’s narrative. Under the orders of none other than A poem for Christmas Stalin himself, the new, and by now familiar, version of Ded New Year Street parties fortune telling Moroz donned a blue, fur-lined uniform and acquired a The annual New Year cel- Beginning in 1962, So- companion, Snegurochka (the snow maiden). According to ebrations on Nevsky Pros- viet-Russian-American the story, the beautiful young blonde maiden is Ded Mo- pekt and Palace Square are poet, Joseph Brodsky, roz’s granddaughter. In the past two decades the pair have both chaotic and fun. St. who jokingly referred also gained two official residences: one in Veliky Ustyug (a Petersburg residents love a to himself as “a Chris- village in the Vologda region) and one in Belavezhskaya good street party and New tian by correspond- Pushcha, Belarus. Year’s Eve is no exception. ence,” took on the task If you’d like to meet Ded Moroz and Snegurochka, head With fireworks and cham- of writing a poem to one of the many public yolka shows, which take place pagne corks flying all over for every Christmas. in the city’s parks and theatres in the weeks leading up to the place, the public gath- The Christmas poems New Year’s Eve. During these shows kids are entertained by erings are not exactly quiet affairs. The designated party stretch through his ca- pantomime-style stories featuring cuddly fairytale char- area generally starts around Gostiny Dvor and extends up reer from 1962 all the way to 1995, just before his death acters. Some of the more elaborate yolka shows are even Nevsky to the river and Palace Square. The entire stretch of in January 1996. When asked why he was so attracted performed on ice rinks. Nevsky is closed to traffic and as midnight approaches, the Christmas Eve Fortune Telling, 19th century. by Christmas, Brodsky, who was both Soviet by birth area fills with revellers. By all means get into the spirit, hug Artist Konstantin Makovsky and Jewish by heritage, once replied that it was more some random strangers, enjoy a plastic cup of Sovietskoye The period between Russian Orthodox Christmas (Jan- the scene of a birth and the waking of consciousness Russian Christmas shampanskoye and greet everyone with a hearty “S Novym uary 7th) and the epiphany (January 19th) is believed that fascinated him, rather than the nativity story as a Since the fall of the Soviet Godom!” (“Happy New Year!”). But, always remember to to be a particularly auspicious time for fortune telling. whole – “I liked that concentration of everything in one Union in 1991, the religious keep an eye on your belongings, as the New Year season Many Russians still like to take carry out various old place - which is what you have in that cave scene.” The holiday of Christmas has can unfortunately also be a productive time for less up- Slavic fortune telling rituals and have some supersti- poem we have chosen from Brodsky’ Christmas cycle been celebrated once standing members of society. To make sure that everyone tious fun. In the olden days it was believed that during was translated by Irish poet, playwright and translator, again in Russia as an of- gets home safely after the big party, the metro will begin this time of the year, the souls of dead ancestors would Seamus Heaney. The poem was written towards the ficially recognized holiday. running early in the AM, beginning at 04:00. roam the earth checking on the lives of their children end of the cycle and of the poet’s life. However, the celebration of and grandchildren. According to tradition, the most ac- Christmas in Russia remains curate predictions are given on the night of old New Imagine striking a match that night in the cave: primarily a religious, and Skating and skiing Year’s Day, January 13th. Below you’ll find some of the use the cracks in the floor to feel the cold. more specifically a Russian Wrapping up warm and taking part in some winter sports most popular fortune-telling traditions, most of which Use crockery in order to feel the hunger. Orthodox, tradition. As such, Christmas is celebrated not is an excellent way to take advantage of the icy weather are simple enough to try at home. And to feel the desert - but the desert is everywhere. on December 25th, but, following the Julian calendar, on during the long New Year holiday. Outdoor ice-skating is Wax: This fortune telling ritual involves melting wax Imagine striking a match in that midnight cave, January 7th. For those observing the holiday, on Christmas one of the best options the city has to offer. If you are and pouring it onto cold water. Upon contact with the the fire, the farm beasts in outline, the farm tools and stuff; Eve there are midnight masses at churches all over the city, looking for a lot of space to show off your racing skills water, the wax solidifies into a shape. From this shape, and imagine, as you towel your face in the towel’s folds, starting around 22:00. The masses are followed by all-night and pirouettes, Park Pobedy (metro Park Pobedy) has you must discern what the future will bring you. If it the bundled up Infant. And Mary and Joseph. vigils and yet more services in the morning. According to the largest outdoor skating rink in the city. On the other is a house, you will live well this year. If it is a circle or Imagine the kings, the caravans’ stilted procession Orthodox tradition, there is a Lenten fast for the 40 days hand, the frozen pond at Yelagin ostrov (metro Staraya circles, you will have good fortune. If some kind of fruit as they make for the cave, or rather three beams closing in leading up to Christmas, during which many types of food Derevnya), which sits modestly in the shadow of the ele- or animal takes shape, you will have good health. If it is and in on the star; the creaking of loads, are given up, such as meat and dairy products. Traditionally, gant Yelagin Palace, is perfect for those who prefer a more a man, then you know what that means! the clink of a cowbell; the fast is broken on Christmas Eve when the first star ap- quiet, romantic glide around the ice, holding hands under Paper: Crumple up some paper, put it on a tray and (but in the cerulean thickening over the Infant pears in the night sky. Just like at New Year’s celebrations, twinkling fairy lights. If you are interested in skiing, you set fire to it. When it stops burning, lift the tray up to a no bell and no echo of bell: He hasn’t earned it yet.) a large family meal is central to Christmas Eve festivities. can visit one of the small ski resorts located outside the wall and shine some light on it. The burnt paper should Imagine the Lord, for the first time, from darkness, Some Orthodox families eat a symbolic twelve-course city, such as Igora (www.igora.biz) or Kurort Snezhny cast a shadow onto the wall. Following the wax shape and stranded meal, in which each particular dish honours one of the (www.snegny.ru). As well as small downhill slopes, both guidelines above, you can predict the coming year’s immensely in distance, recognising Himself in the Son, twelve apostles. Some of the twelve traditional dishes in- parks also offer outdoor ice-skating, sledging and cross- luck from the shape of the shadow. of Man: homeless, going out to Himself in a homeless one. clude baked fish, sweet cakes made from honey and kutya, country skiing through pine forests. King of Diamonds: Take a deck of playing cards and a milky porridge made from poppy seeds, wheatberries, remove the King of Diamonds. Put it under your pillow (Translated by Seamus Heaney, 2001) honey and nuts. on a night between the 6th and the 13th of December But never fear! If you’re here for the holidays and looking to and you will dream of your future husband(s). fied the cold of winter. He cried tears of icicles and travelled celebrate Christmas on December 25th, there are several Lucky Dip: Find a golden ring, a loaf of bread and a across the country by foot, freezing lakes and rivers along options available. If you’d like to attend mass, the Catholic hook. Lay them on a table and cover them with a piece the way with the touch of his staff. The original tradition Church of St. Catherine is conveniently located on Nevsky of cloth or napkin. Have someone re-arrange them un- of gift-giving was also at one time reversed: parents would and holds midnight and morning masses on Christmas Eve der the cloth. Then pick an object without looking. If put out presents for Ded Moroz as an offering to dissuade (December 24th) and Christmas day (take note, masses will you choose the ring, your future husband will be vain. If him from stealing their children. Over time, the spirit’s im- most likely be conducted in Russian). For festive Christmas you get the bread, your husband will be rich. If you get age softened and he was eventually transformed into the gatherings, many upscale hotels also offer their own spe- the hook, your husband will be poor. Other versions of warm-hearted bearer of presents and good cheer – closer cial celebratory Christmas parties, markets, dinners and the lucky dip can involve a baby’s sock (predicting an to his Christmas equivalents in Europe and the States. In brunches, for those looking to mark the occasion with imminent pregnancy), a coin (for wealth) and a key (for 1935, when the Soviet Union re-embraced the celebration family, friends and fellow guests. For more details on which a new home). of the New Year, Ded Moroz was formally incorporated into hotels are offering what this season, see pages 25-26. 22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 23 Features Features

Christmas Fair Warm up in the banya A banya is a traditional Russian sauna and/or bath house. For some, going to the banya is a social event, that involves friends and family and possibly lots of drinking. For others, including the few remaining communal-flat residents, bath- ing at public banyas is just the normal way to wash oneself. For this reason, there are many types of banyas to choose from. Communal banyas have large rooms with showers, hot rooms and places to chill out and change clothes. Banyas usually have male and female sections, or alternate between men’s and women’s days. Private banyas are also available for reservation, if you’d like to get a group of friends together and Another destination for unique hand-crafted gifts and have one all to yourselves. The health benefits of having a souvenirs is the annual St. Petersburg International good old sweat are many and well-documented. If you opt Christmas Fair, which takes place this year on Pioners- in for a true Russian banya experience, you can also get the kaya pl. (metro Zvenigorodskaya) from December 19th blood flowing with a proper Russian banya beating using Any evening from December 24th to January 8th the to January 11th. The fair not only features vendors sell- veniki, which are different types of aromatic branches, bun- Holidays at hotels Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky ing Christmas and New Year’s gifts and food, but also dled together and used as healthful switches. Now you know that New Year in Russia is hands down the hotel invites you and your family to enjoy specially prepared booths representing different countries from all over biggest party of the year. But the celebratory spirit extends Christmas dishes and desserts at the hotel’s Pierrot restaurant. the world, including the UK, the US, China, Spain, Ger- Bateninskie bany well beyond New Year’s Eve. Whichever winter holiday The hotel also presents a New Year’s Eve celebration, which many, and many more. During the fair, each country’s QUl. Aleksandra Matrosova 2, MLesnaya, tel. (+7) 812 you’d like to celebrate, we want to make sure you find the includes a three-course meal, live music, a DJ set and un- booth will present their respective cultural holiday tra- 331 88 99, www.batbani.ru. best place to do so. Holidays always have their share of limited beverages, plus New Year’s surprises. Children under ditions, foods and favourite holiday-season entertain- Degtyarnie Bathhouses stresses - preparing food, hosting family or friends, buying five are welcome free of charge. For guests who’d like to stay ments. The fair also features a stage, where live perfor- QE-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 gifts, decorating. The list goes on. But we do it all, year after the night, the hotel is also offering a deluxe New Year’s night mances will take place daily, and an ice-skating rink. As 244 41 04, www.d1a.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. A year, because the magical moments that happen during package, that includes both the evening’s party at Pierrot res- a special holiday bonus, children under the age of 16 Kazachie bany the holidays are worth all the effort and the memories can taurant and a buffet breakfast on New Year’s day. get to skate for free! QD-3, Bol. Kazachy per. 11, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) be cherished for a lifetime. The Domina Prestige Hotel has also created a New 812 315 07 34, www.kazbani.ru. Open 24hrs. Of course, if you’re spending the holidays away from home, Year’s Eve party to remember. The night’s events open with you may have entirely different concerns, likely beginning a cocktail party where guests are invited to watch the ho- with the two pressing questions when and where to cele- tel’s chef create a brand new New Year’s dish before their brate? This holiday season, many of St. Petersburg’s best ho- eyes. The evening continues with banquet-style dining, tels would like to play host to you and your family’s winter with all the Russian New Year’s favourites, live music, DJs holiday festivities, in whatever form they may take. Forget and dancing late into the night. the fuss of cooking, or the hassles of playing host and head For families with young children, the world-renowned down to a hotel where you can let the professionals handle Belmond Grand Hotel Europe has put together an the work. Sit down together for a delicious Christmas meal incredible array of gifts, activities and events that are sure with all your classic holiday favourites, drink champagne on to delight and mesmerize the whole family. For parents, the New Year’s Eve with friends, family and new acquaintances, hotel has made last minute Christmas shopping easy, with or spend an evening watching a holiday-themed concert their selection of Christmas Sets, handmade festive packag- or show. However you’d like to celebrate, we hope you’ll es of local and seasonal specialties, which make wonderful find what you’re looking for! holiday gifts and souvenirs. Christmas Dinner on Decem- On New Year’s Eve, beginning at 22:00, the Azimut Hotel ber 24-25 will be served in the icicle-decorated Caviar Bar invites you to welcome in the new year not in Petersburg, and Restaurant. Other family-friendly events include a New but in 1930s Berlin. The one-night only event is designed Year’s brunch on January 1st , with children-oriented enter- to immerse you in the world of the musical “Cabaret”. The tainment, a Russian Fairytale Night (December 31st) and a festivities include live cabaret shows, music performances, special New Year Kids Party (January 4th) with food, sweets, decadent amounts of champagne, a “Kit Kat Klub”-themed games gifts and a surprise appearance of Ded Moroz. menu and a raffle. For a more intimate, personalized party or event, the Corinthia Hotel offers to play host in their beautiful fa- cilities and help you design the perfect evening for family, friends or colleagues. You can either choose from an array of carefully put together prefix menus, featuring traditional Russian dishes and delicacies, and festive beverage pack- ages, or consult with the hotel’s Conference and Events Department to create your own. Corinthia is also hosting a New Year’s Eve Gala, featuring champagne, an exquisite dinner menu and live jazz in their Imperial restaurant. 24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 25 Features Where to eat For more holiday and souvenir shopping, the Kempinski The Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic hotel is offering St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and Hotel Moika 22 presents their very own Christmas Mar- Christmas and New Year celebratory menus in their Canvas fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian ket, which will be open every day from morning until late in restaurant, beginning Christmas Eve (December 24th) and to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure the evening, from December 1st to January 7th. The hotel’s extending until January 8th. The hotel is also hosting their to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph lobby will be transformed into a magical Nutcracker fairy- own New Year’s Eve dinner at Canvas, as well as a special into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so tale. After doing some shopping, enjoy a cup of tea before one-night stay in one of the hotel’s Deluxe room. The one- make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. a crackling fire in the hotel’s festively decorated Tea Room. night package includes the Festive New Year dinner and a Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. In addition, the hotel hosts Christmas concerts every even- buffet breakfast on New Year’s morning. Our price guide is based on the average price of ing in December, a great activity for all ages. In addition to Located smack on St. Isaac’s a main course: the daily holiday cheer, the hotel also invites guests to par- Square, directly facing the € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl take in specially created holiday meals on New Year’s Eve, cathedral, sister hotels As- €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus Catholic Christmas (December 24th and 25th), and Russian toria and Angleterre are Christmas (January 7th). a pleasure to visit at any time of the year. But, just to Russian CUISINE be more enticing, this holi- 1913 day season, the hotels have Nestled on a street corner between St. Isaac’s and Theatre prepared some special Squares, Restaurant 1913 is the perfect spot to stop in on events for a magical New a wintry evening to enjoy a glass of wine or a coffee. Live Year’s Eve. At the Astoria, musicians playing soothing Russian ballads offer you a guests are invited to a “Snow Kingdom” party where every moment to warm up and bask in the elegant, but com- guest will become a participant in their favourite winter forting and intimate space. The extensive menu, available fairytale. The program, which is hosted by the famous Lyud- in both Russian and English, boasts every classic Russian mila Shiryaeva and Sergey Slavin, also includes live acrobat- dish imaginable, plus more unusual offerings for adventur- ic, music, dance and theatre performances. The evening’s ous diners. The restaurant, which just celebrated its 20th menu is specially designed by the recent additions to the anniversary this fall, is festively decorated and features On New Year’s Eve, the Taleon Imperial Hotel presents hotel’s team, acclaimed head chef Serge Feri from France Art Deco-inspired stained-glass windows and glass detail. “Around the world in one night”, a special holiday event for and head pastry chef Yulia Ivanova. At the Angleterre, the QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 13/2, MSpasskaya, tel. (+7) 812 guests of all ages. Host Mike Malyshev invites guests on a New Year’s Eve festivities take the form of a show called 315 51 48, www.restaurant-1913.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - journey to different countries around the world, where you “Italian Passion” in the hotel’s restaurant Borsalino. Hosted 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PSW will be introduced to different cultures’ traditional dances by “Comedy Club” resident Gregory Soloviev, the evening and music. The evening will also include a separate pro- also features live acrobatic, music and theatre acts as well, Caviar Bar and Restaurant gram for children with games, performances, contests, gifts and a menu filled with Italian delicacies. Music and danc- Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the and a special kids menu. For adult guests, the hotel’s chef ing will continue until the wee hours. New Year’s morning, first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but has also created a unique, exclusive New Year’s menu, in- restaurant Borsalino is also offering a festive holiday brunch the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. spired by cuisines from around the world. with fresh, re-invigorating cocktails and live music. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the If you’re looking for something a little less traditional this menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the New Year’s Eve, come get your dance on at the Courtyard Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the hotel 80s night New Year bash. Other than a live DJ playing heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recom- 80s hits all night long, the party also offers a huge, buffet- mended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. Business lunch style spread of classic Russian New Year’s dishes and des- is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand serts. The event also includes an open bar where any drink Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. of your choice - champagne, wine, vodka, and even local (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.caviar-bar.com. Open Wed - Sat beer brewed in the hotel’s brewery - will flow like water. 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW

Cococo Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the frontman of the ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lem- onade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns tiramisu and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has low ceil- ings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 For contact information on hotels 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat check pages 54-56 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW 26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 27 Where to eat Where to eat Idiot Olivie With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in various types are served here in abundance, Olivie of- English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the at- fers Russian and Caucasian dishes prepared with the mosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Rus- chef’s personal interpretations. Classic walnut sauce sian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a a reasonable kids menu. However many people come to classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests - are just a few examples of what the chef offers. Olivie are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square, cordial English-speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky in- directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is per- spired menu. To top it off during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), fect for every mood, every occasion and every type of you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for company.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteis- the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the kaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. deal!QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 PTAGSW 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 Typically, a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust NEP kind of a place where working men wash down cheap NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious hom- vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle age to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy inspired establishment is as far away from that kind of and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for order your meal and be enthralled by the music featuring tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. a charming, personality-packed star singer. They offer an The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely pre- a very recommended introduction to Russian cuisine. sented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we’ve ever is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment. seen, as well as a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvar- QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) deisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. Wed - Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAESW PTAULESW

Tandoor Next to Mariinsky theatre Asian and Indian Show this ad Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is and get Chopsticks about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. a discount10 % Chopsticks is a fine dining Chinese restaurant. The interior For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic has been decorated in traditional Chinese style, featuring Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ priz- traditional paintings on the walls. Quiet background music es for their efforts. They have all the usual favourites so you adds to the refined Oriental atmosphere. The master chef can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst produces not only his favourite Szechwan and Cantonese mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan dishes but also popular dishes from India and Thailand. Its bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group. central location makes this one of the most convenient Chi- QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. nese restaurants to visit in St. Petersburg. Be prepared to take (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - your time over the meal and expect to use chopsticks!QD-3, 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 15, www.facebook.com/chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 - Tandoori Nights 23:00. €€. PTSW For Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay- Delicious italian Curry House oven Tandoori-specialities, which gives the meat a delicious and russian food! Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also took the courage to open his own Curry House in the highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. You can Amazing Pastry! Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum House is a perfect addition to the city’s food scene serv- and 18 types of tea. There’re plenty of options for vegetarians ing food from all parts of off India. The menu is extensive too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% and we really enjoyed the wide variety of dishes: Samosa, discount on the bill.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiral- St. Petersburg, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, chick peas) served with plain rice and off course buttered com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru Next to Mariinsky theatre naan. Like any Indian restaurant, Curry House offers a wide reservations: choice of vegetarian dishes.QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSa- Ya vegetarianets – I am a vegetarian +7 (812) 572 54 48 dovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www.curryhousespb. Bez myasa – without meat com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. 28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 29 Where to eat Where to eat of beer in a different glass! Belgian meals, which combine the simplicity of a traditional burger with the delicacy of French Caucasian cuisine, are made according to the best recipes chosen in Baklazhan Brussels and Antwerp. QC-2, Nab. Makarova 22, MVasil- The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism eostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www.inbrugge.ru. seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALEGSW Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall KwakInn of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food Kwakinn is a Belgian beer pub with a friendly atmosphere and itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative piles of Belgian moules. The brains behind the long-gone dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed sam- Tsinik bar run this friendly little pub with an attitude that says - sas, khachapuri and the like and you’ll be treated to pip- Beer Restaurants settle in, we’re all friends here. This tiny, bright basement pub ing hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria Craft Bier Cafe (the yellow walls bring a lot of light to what should be a dark Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. Calling all beer-lovers! 40 different kinds of beer on tap can space) has one central bar surrounded by cosy booths with +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00 be found at Craft, more than anywhere else in St. Peters- the odd tv here and there usually showing football. The food until last guest. €. PTALVESW burg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft’s is excellent - the chunky Belgian frittes alone are worth the special Russian brews. Owner Sergey takes special pride journey.QC-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 37, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. Pryanosti i radosti in having four different kinds of lager available that he (+7) 812 493 26 39, www.kwakinn.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on specially made based on his own favourites from Russia, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGSW the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favou- Manneken Pis too popular. The tables are spaced close to each other and rite beverage. The atmosphere is laid-back and it is easy to Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue a quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but mingle with locals and expats alike. QE-2, Gagarinskaya in Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Ma- somehow it all works. You feel like you are in a busy, fun ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www. rol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). Whether you are a and thriving atmosphere. The menu includes European craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PTAEGW little different, Manneken Pis will turn your affection for Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Mos- beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range of Belgium kovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-1, Mal. Posadska- 8, Admiralteysky Pr., Dickens and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over ya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all 150 types of bottled beer, including trappist and bou- ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVSW +7 (812) 945 84 72 around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot tique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer and the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. food is excellent.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, European Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - Gypsy tapas bar cure and really authentically British. Dickens offers a pub at- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PTAGSW Decorated with more Middle Eastern flavor than Span- mosphere, which is as close to a real British pub as you’ll find ish, the welcome is exotic and warm as you enter Gypsy in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the sec- The Corner Pub Tapas Bar. Enjoy fruity cocktails such as “I Want a Summer ond floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., This is an English pub on the Petrograd Side, founded by Gypsy!” and “Quiet Sangria”, while sampling freshly-made tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - the people who brought you Dickens. The menu remains tapas from a small yet interesting menu. As well as tapas, 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAGSW unchanged but beer selection has been improved dramati- the menu also offers a limited selection of mains and cally - more than 30 kinds of beer, including ever popular soups.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 14/1, MChernyshevskaya, tel. Gastronomic Pub Brugge craft beers. It is a particularly pleasant place to sit back and (+7) 812 993 77 57, www.gypsybar.ru. Open 12:00 until This Gastronomic pub is the place for people who like an relax in a comfortable armchair by the fire with an English last guest. €€. PAESW authentic atmosphere and, naturally, original cuisine! The ale. QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 55A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 founders of this pub were inspired by the idea that the Bel- 318 17 24, www.dickenspubs.com. Open 16:00 - 04:00. €€. Il Lago dei Cigni gians appreciate beer as much as the French admire their PAESW Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under wine, so they tried to collect the best types of the most popu- the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzuca- lar beverages and, as tradition dictates, they serve each kind Trappist to. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself for offering Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique SYMBOL key good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. Island in the middle of the Neva River delta, giving guests P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from af- a beautiful view of the Finnish Gulf that is particularly at- E Live music S Take away fordable to over 2,000Rbl a bottle, Trappist is definitely a beer tractive as the sun sets. The restaurant itself sits on the very destination, as they have imported more than 100 beers from edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. From Friday to Sun- visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking day, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the throughout the year. Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for White Sea.QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, a quiet getaway from the stress and bustle of the city.QA-1, V Home delivery W Wifi tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 - Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGSW 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW 30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 31 Where to eat Where to eat Fine dining International L’Europe Biblioteka Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in This culinary and cultural project takes up three storeys the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experi- in the old Dutch Church on Nevsky prospect. The ground ence to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, floor is a café-delicatessen with tasty American and Dutch the interiors are stunning, especially the original Art Deco pies, homemade burgers, fresh salads and coffee. A res- stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are taurant with a great view of Nevsky pr. is located on the made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Read first floor, along with a flower shop, a china shop, book more on pages 34-35.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Eu- shop and candle shop. The ViVi children’s club is also lo- rope, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 cated here. The second floor has a relaxed atmosphere Mon Petit Café 329 66 30, www.europe-restaurant.net. Open 07:00 - and comprises a wine and tapas-bar. A bookshop is also MarketPlace in Galeria While the décor is similar to a lot of other modern cafés in 23:00. €€€€. PTALEW located here.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) For a lively culinary experience, head to the MarketPlace, town, the cafe’s understated colors, comfortable chairs and 812 244 15 94, www.facebook.com/ilovenevsky. Open a new restaurant located on the fourth-floor of the Gal- impressionist artwork on the walls help give off a mildly Palkin 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW leria shopping mall. The restaurant features an open Parisian vibe. However, unlike other cafés, the menu is re- Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back kitchen, where you can watch cooks prepare dishes freshingly brief. Menu highlights include excellent patés as to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior Bolshaya Kukhnya from all over the world. The MarketPlace team, inspired starters, full-bodied red wine and delicious crème brûlée is as sophisticated and tasteful as it was in Imperial times, A huge panorama restaurant just a stone’s throw away from by their travels all over the globe, have attempted to re- for dessert. The basic menu also helps keep things uncom- which adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a Moskovsky train station. The name is very appropriate be- create the bustling, aromatic atmosphere of a market, plicated in the kitchen, allowing the cooks to just focus on meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting cause the restaurant can fit up to 400 people at once, mak- where food is quickly made and reasonably priced, with quality ingredients and as a result deliver tasty and satisfying with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and ing it a great place for groups of friends and families to enjoy the comforts and quality of a high-end restaurant. The meals.QF-3, 2-ya Sovetskaya ul. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a a very wide menu of more than 150 dishes from around the food is made from fresh ingredients and the restaurant’s (+7) 812 372 65 78. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PASW bygone era. They also offer a seasonal five-course special world. Among them head chef Vladimir Stebunov presents interior is constructed only from eco-friendly materials, menu with specially selected wines, themed around a dif- pastas and pizzas, burgers, homemade desserts and plat- including wood, ceramic and brick detail. The space is Mozhno ferent wine-growing region of the world. Booking in ad- ters for two or more. The little ones have their very own designed for guests to sit comfortably, sipping a glass of Prepare to be transported to a new kind of dining experi- vance is recommended. QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky menu in their very own restaurant.QE-3, Galeria Shopping wine or a specialty cocktail, and watch the MarketPlace ence. The menu is designed according to the diet principles pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MVosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 984 magic unfold.QE-3, Galeria, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. of French nutritionist Pierre Dukan. However, non-dieting 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW 04 84, www.big-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 981 169 88 28, www.market- customers can simply choose dishes at will and, likely, will not 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAULEGSW place.me. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €. PASW be disappointed. Be prepared for innovative preparations of The Flying Dutchman classic protein-heavy foods - lots of fish and fowl, as well as At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy beef tongue and tender leg of lamb - served with whole grain Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views purees, fruits and vegetables. Beautifully arranged and am- of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the river’s ply sized plates will leave you satisfied and smiling.QE-3, Ul. banks, with the glorious Winter Palace directly opposite din- Marata 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 926 26 16, www. ers. The Flying Dutchman complex includes three different mozhno-est.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW restaurants. Our favourite is the restaurant Terrasa. All cream, dark wood and clean lines, this place is every bit the classy Soup Wine berth you would expect, where the sharp modern interior Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek doesn’t completely detract from the vessel’s heritage. Fresh and pleasant diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, fish is predictably a wise choice in such a venue and certain- boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads, but ly doesn’t disappoint and the wine list nonchalantly flows also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge over several pages.QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSport- salads which come in bowls piled with green leaves. Given ivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open the restaurant’s size and how easy it is to sit and linger, 10:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALEGSW listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book a table in advance. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, Wine Cellar 1853 MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Few restaurants are as small and cosy as this one. Located in- Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW side the Kempinski Moika 22 Hotel, you escape into the world of fine dining, exclusive wines and delicious fondue. This cellar Sunduk accommodates up to 16 people but you are never alone since Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed you are accompanied by 200 different bottles of wine and 50 into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with bottles of champagne. You can choose between four differ- memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The ent fondues from the menu, among other offerings. Next to bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live the classical cheese fondue is a bourgogne meat fondue and music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant a chocolate fondue (as an entrée, main and dessert perhaps) is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in or you can go for the champagne and perigord truffle and order.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, cheese fondue. QAdmiralteiskaya, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 - MD-2, tel. (+7) 812 335 9111, www.kempinski.com. Open 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Tue - Sat 18:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PAUW 32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 33 Features Features

In 1905, the hotel opened their restaurant L’Europe, which niably outdated. On January 5, 1989, the Evropeiskaya Ho- today is the oldest continually serving restaurant in the city. tel was officially closed for renovations. Intourist collabo- An incredible stained-glass mural of Apollo crowns the rated with Swedish companies SIAB and RESO to entirely main dining space. Between 1907 and 1914, the hotel also revamp the hotel and raise it to contemporary international received an Art Nouveau makeover from architect Fyodor standards. And the companies did not take this task lightly. Lidval, who would later design the hotel Astoria. The décor They brought in a floating training hotel, consisting of 276 in the L’Europe and in many other parts of the hotel today rooms, and anchored it next to Leningrad’s international remain testaments to Lidval’s work. passenger terminal. There the future staff of the Grand Ho- During the World Wars, the hotel’s hundreds of rooms were tel Europe, which, as a rule, included no one from the for- transformed for uses other than accommodating foreign mer Soviet-era staff, were whipped into shape before the guests, as the horror of war and starvation descended on new hotel’s opening. the city. After the ravages of World War One and the Civil War following the Bolshevik revolution, the hotel was used as an orphanage for the many children left without parents. In 1929, responding to the inevitable presence of visiting foreigners in the Soviet Union, Soviet authorities created the State Joint-Stock Company for Foreign Tourists, better known as Intourist. During the interwar years, Intourist or- chestrated the visits of highly respected foreign guests to Hotel – Mikhailovsky Palace, Arts Square, and the beautiful the new Communist State, such as H.G. Wells and George THE GRAND HOTEL EUROPE boulevard, Mikhailovskaya ulitsa, leading from the Square Bernard Shaw. Poet Vladimir Mayakovsky and writer Maxim This January, the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, an historic to Nevsky. At the same time, he organized the construction Gorky both frequented the hotel and its restaurants, and icon of excellence and luxury in the heart of St. Peters- of a unified façade for the buildings lining Mikhailovskaya, both often used their hotel suites as reception areas for the burg, celebrates its 140th anniversary. The hotel has lived what would later become the façade of the Grand Europe. many eager young writers and well-wishers who would and flourished from the end of the Russian Imperial era, In the 1820s-30s, the building behind Rossi’s façade and its line up to visit with them. The beautifully and technologically updated hotel, and the through the entire Soviet era and into the 21st century. neighboring building around the corner were occupied by The hotel was again appropriated for another use during World first Five-Star hotel in Russia, officially re-opened on De- From its opening day, and throughout this entire span, the two separate hoteliers, Hugo Klee and Jean Coulon. In the War Two and the horrific 900-day siege of Leningrad. This time cember 21, 1991. Again the guest list began to fill with the hotel has been known for its luxurious accommodations, 1830s, Klee’s son, Wilhelm, took over the business from his the hotel became a much-needed hospital, and its many names of the rich and famous, including former president impeccable service and welcoming, friendly atmosphere, father, combined his hotel with Coulon’s and created a uni- rooms were filled with wounded and sick patients. When Hos- Bill Clinton and the man of the hour, Mikhail Gorbachev. as well as its ability to adapt to the demands of history. In fied establishment, the Hotel Rossiya. The combined hotel pital No. 991, as the hotel was temporarily re-named, closed in Through the 90s, the hotel was run by the Kempinski the face of inevitable change, the Grand Hotel Europe has set new standards for service and its restaurant became a April 1942, its staff attempted to repair and restore the once- group, who saw it through economic collapse and other retained its high level of service and continued to update gathering place for writers, intellectuals and artists. magnificent building, part of which had been bombed and hardships of the late 90s and early 2000s. and rejuvenate itself to keep up with and even go well be- Klee ran the Hotel Rossiya for almost 30 years, gaining a much of which was filled with debris and fallen plaster. This January, the Grand Hotel Europe celebrates its 140th yond the expectations of its contemporary guests. reputation for high-end hospitality in the heart of the city. In In the postwar years, the city began to recover from the anniversary in the capable hands of Belmond Ltd. This Oc- The Grand Hotel Europe was constructed on prime 1872, a group of wealthy businessmen formed a joint-stock devastation of the siege and the war. Restoration of the tober, the hotel announced the opening of six new suites, real estate, right on the corner of Nevsky prospekt and company called Evropeiskaya Gostinnitsa (Hotel Europe) and Evropeiskaya began in earnest in 1949. When the hotel which include the largest presidential suite in St. Petersburg Mikhailovskaya ulitsa. Mikhailovskaya provides an open made Klee an offer for his hotel that he couldn’t refuse. In re-opened for business, it continued to attract respected and five Avant-Garde Suites, designed in homage to Russian vista all the way from Nevsky to Arts Square and beyond, to order to get the entire property along Mikhailovskaya, the visitors from both the Soviet Union and abroad for the next artists of the early 20th century. The hotel offers its guests the magnificent classical pillars of the Mikhailovsky Palace, company also had to buy out the shop owners who occu- two decades. But by the 1980s, the dilapidated façade, the absolute highest quality of services and amenities, on the which today houses the Russian Museum. pied the ground floors of the buildings, and charged hefty which hadn’t been renovated since just after the war, the cutting-edge of the hospitality industry, while still retaining When Peter the Great first began to build his new capital, prices to vacate their prime locations. But the Hotel Europe hotel’s amenities and even the level of service were unde- the elegance and charm of its Imperial origins. many parts of what is today the city centre where nothing company had a vision. They wanted to open a new, world- more than swamp land and stagnant rivers. By the first dec- class hotel that would be unrivalled in Russia’s capital. In ade of the 19th century, however, the land had been unrec- 1873, they hired architect L.F. Fontana and got to work on ognizably transformed. One of the most important archi- renovations and refurbishments. tects working in St. Petersburg at that time was the Italian On January 25, 1875, a press release was printed in the Carlo Rossi. He designed the entire area around the Grand newspaper Stock Exchange announcing the opening of the new Hotel d’Europe. The announcement included a list of almost unprecedented services that the new establish- ment had to offer: two hundred and sixty exclusively deco- rated rooms, restaurant, butcher shop, bakers, pastry shop, tailor laundry, shoe repair, barber, fish smoking, wine cel- lars, 1-4 horse carriages for rent, laundry, ice and lemonade production, interpreters with all the world’s languages… All of the above, plus the latest technological advance- ments, such as a lift, air bells to ring for service, and tel- egraph. The new hotel, which was also referred to by many simply as the “Evropeiskaya”, was poised to set new standards of hospitality and excellence. And indeed it did. 34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 35 Where to eat Where to eat PMI Bar Ribai PMI bar occupies three floors in a beautiful historic build- A good juicy steak in St. Petersburg is something of a Italian ing on the Moika. The bar, located on the first floor, fea- delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare Borsalino tures hand-crafted cocktails, created by the city’s best and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is Borsalino’s Italian head chef has made this restaurant bartenders. In the restaurant and enoteca on the second a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene: a destination for tourists and residents alike for years. and third floors, Russian chef Ivan Berezutsky has created given the nature of the cuisine, it offers tremendous beef Their menu is simple Italian fare, exactingly prepared a small specialty menu and wine list that boasts the best selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt and plated and infused with rich, authentic flavour from selections of European wines. On the weekends, PMI bar for something other than steak, there’s another pleasant all over Italy. An exemplary wine list, professional service invites popular DJs to perform and also often hosts tours surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an and a regularly changing seasonal menu would be more of the most notable chefs from around the world. But American eatery the portions are mammoth and their than enough to satisfy even without the amazing views True Indian cooking don’t let that intimidate you. At PMI, a friendly and relaxing delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below of St. Isaac’s Square.QD-3, Angleterre Hotel, Mal. Mor- atmosphere is king.QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 7, MNevsky what’s expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai skaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15, and hospitality pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07 10, www.pmibar.com. Open does.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. +7 (812) www.angleterrehotel.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW 912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat PTAULEGSW since 1994 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAVESW The Maze Caffe Italia 20 Before setting off on your own quest for this dining spot, be Romeo’s Bar and Kitchen The cheerful and charming décor, with checked table- years sure to note, the restaurant is aptly named: tucked in a quiet Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, cloths, sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the corner of the city centre, it is nestled in the Paradny Kvartal Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably bookshelves, already puts this café above the standard residential complex. The location makes the walk from the priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere casual Italian bistro. On offer is a diverse range of authentic metro potentially labyrinthine, but thoroughly and wonder- are relaxed, inviting guests to linger and spend cosy eve- pasta dishes, pizzas, starters and paninis. The mozzarella fully Petersburgian. If you’re looking to add a little quiet to your nings with friends or family. It’s also a nice place to bring stretches about a kilometer and the imported olive oil is Petersburg dining experience, the Café-Bar’s casual café-style a date or have a family celebration (a children’s menu is positively succulent. If you can restrain yourself, the gor- dining provides just the right balance of isolation and activity. available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide geously presented desserts are worth the effort and the The pan-European (but with emphasis on Italy) menu offers assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide wine list is a spot-on selection of almost exclusively dry a wide selection for the whole family to enjoy.QF-2, Parad- selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC- Italian vintages that won’t break the bank.QF-3, Pr. Ba- naya ul. 3, bldg. 2A, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) kunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 64 74, www. 10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 13 03, www.themazecafebar.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open caffe-italia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PNSW www.tandoor-spb.ru 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €€. PASW 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Gusto A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem to just sit down and are immediately served their favou- rite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef without a word being spoken to the waiters. Expect that kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks basic but all the dishes are complex, mouth-watering masterpieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes. Be sure to order the bread basket, a selection of freshly baked, in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for mopping up every last drop of sauce.QF-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www. gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW

ITALY Bottega This restaurant is like an Italian grocery - small and very cosy. All the guests are seated at a large table, as is com- mon in Europe. The menu features traditional Italian homemade pasta, delicious pizza and several kinds of ri- sotto. Exactly the same menu is represented in Italy West on Bolshoy pr. 48 and Italy South on Moskovsky pr. 159. But in Italy Bottega there is also a new section on the menu - antipasti on wooden boards from Chef Michael Sokolov and an impressive wine list. After 23:00, wine can be or- dered as a takeaway.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAd- miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 19 56, www.italy-group. ru. Open 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW 36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 37 Where to eat Nightlife Makaronniki The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, sports stadium, this rooftop restaurant gets 11 out of 10 groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. for style points with their famous terrace. Enjoy unusual views of the Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermitage Museum in the background Bars and Pubs - along with the domes of other St. Petersburg landmarks. Birzha Bar Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu with world class Birzha Bar is located on Vasilevsky Island which was origi- wines, cocktails, homemade lemonade and Sangria.QC-2, nally intended to be St. Petersburg’s centre. Todat the is- Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 land is one of St. Petersburg’s most attractive areas, and 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. the Birzha Bar is located on the spit of the island in the old PTALSW St. Petersburg Stock Exchange. The bar holds wild dance nights on Friday and Saturday with live DJs and attracts Helsinki Bar Marcelli’s Russian and foreign musicians to jazz up your night.QC- This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with 2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 the late 70s. Well, that’s the case if you are Finnish and your a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of 925 88 06, www.birjabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEW liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage case there), although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester that really make the atmosphere unpretentious. The Chroniki style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There marathon-runner-sized portions. With an open kitchen, merge the drinking cultures of a modern Scandinavian are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer Marcelli’s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality bar and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 Soviet-era watering hole). The stylish interior is very mod- rice.QC-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya, (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstani- ern yet cosy, simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. Open 12:00 ya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The bar - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky gives you a great view of the classic St. Petersburg archi- 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www. tecture on Ul. Nekrasova. The preferred order at Chroniki Library Bar marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW is, as per tradition at a Leningrad ryumochnaya, hard alco- The small and friendly environment has more of a relaxed hol. The numerous types of vodka include Russian, Finn- pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed as a self proclaimed Palermo ish, Swedish and Danish variations.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova ‘gastrobar’ offers filling but carefully prepared food. The Palermo is a cosy restaurant a stone’s throw from Nevsky 26, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 911 275 31 61. Open library-esque wood paneling and plush leather furni- pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in Ital- 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW ture make up for the lack of books, but the venue might ian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beaches be more of a place to catch some football on the many below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of Cuba Libre screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere to dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the Upon entering this bar, it’s immediately obvious that relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of the theme goes well beyond just the name. The bar is pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www. mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a adorned with Cuban flags, and the remarkable jumble library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives of spirits behind the bar includes many delicious variet- and lean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, ies of rum. More than sufficient seating makes Cuba Libre Liverpool Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 a good choice for an umplanned bite to eat. The classic If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a pub 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. burgers and platters to share will go down a treat, but it’s with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves €€. PTAESW really at night when the place comes alive. The heaps of great food in large portions, has screens for sport events fresh fruit behind the bar promise a refreshing cocktail, and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk Testo and indeed the menu is so long you might not let yourself from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play Pizza and pasta are what they do best here in this nov- leave until you’ve sampled a good few.QE-3, Sadovaya pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing elty little basement bar, named after the Russian word ul. 7-9-11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 983 55 26, www. along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, for dough. They make their own pasta, change the menu barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAESW MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool. daily and serve up pizza with tasty Italian style thin ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red Dead Poets interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it a perfect spot This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a Terminal Bar for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole length are available on tap as well as a choice of wines.QD-3, discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the eve- of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning under the Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64 ning sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or back- weight of just about any spirit you might fancy. Fortunately 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. gammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey is without the reputation of the infamous New York City Termi- PTASW impressive and accompanied by a delicious range of snacks. nal bar appearing in Martin Scorsese’s ‘Taxi Driver’, the space The bar plays soft background music and has an art nou- is popular with the trendy folk of the city spread across the bar veau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovsk- stools peppered across the room. There is even a piano here Shchyot budte dobry – Check please! ogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 for those who feel like entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11, - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW MMayakovskaya. Open 14:00 until last guest. €. PW 38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 39 Nightlife Nightlife Mishka Zing Bar Clubs Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking Cocktail bars Cocktails, Russia’s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked Avrora husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with Bar 812 soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Café del Mar Avrora bills itself as an entertainment complex and cer- pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassum- soundtrack, it’s possible!) are the draw cards of this stylish tainly has grand ambitions. The complex features a bowl- glasses and handmade accessories. They’re tapping their ing place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not shaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bar- fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful so much so that you can’t actually see anyone or anything and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which tenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie as can be experienced elsewhere. The menu focuses on the hosts smaller concerts and other events. The programme tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at classics and is historically separated into ‘old’ (19th Century), features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative con- - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul. recent and modern sections which also includes their own certs as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 Russian influenced creations.QD-3, Ul. Lomonosova 14, the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River Purga 29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 39 44. Open 17:00 - and the Avrora Cruiser.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, There are two Purgas next to each other on the Fontanka river. 04:00. PAESW 02:00. PAGW MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru. Purga-I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with Open 12:00 - 22:00. PALEW midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/So- Daiquiri Bar nightlife - keeping safe viet leaders. In Purga-II, couples celebrate mock weddings and Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover Dom Byta dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bride- the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when grooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table.QE-3, Nab. the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails this bar was named after the type of storefronts that reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch re- www.purga-club.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced pair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice Radiobaby weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Kony- touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porce- With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radioba- ushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, lain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the by has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and www.dbar.ru. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can PASW electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be the more boisterous weekends.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local Graf-in missed. However, to keep it fun and safe, there are a few 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www. favorites who know how to keep the energy up.QD-3, The English meaning of grafin is “carafe”, which is fitting things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your drinks. dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - Kazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www.radiobaby.com. since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy Bars are often crowded, so even when you have your drink 07:00. PTAESW Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is next to you, make sure someone doesn’t slip something in clear that Graf-in caters to the more glamorous crowd. it. Likewise keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little documents you have with you – getting a new passport uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Graf-in offers really ruins a holiday, especially if you’ve lost your wallet a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks as well. Go out with friends, it’s more fun and means you as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry can look after each other, and makes you a harder target. Cheesecake”. An extensive food menu includes the usual Take registered taxis and don’t just jump into any car. Being Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass kidnapped is a bad way to end a night out. And although it and steaks. During the week it’s pretty quiet, but on the might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table res- whom you bring home – there are cases of people waking ervations are free!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAd- up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/ miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, your wits about you. Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW

Tsvetochki “Blue Route” Pub Crawl A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively The Dickens cordially invites you on a pub crawl: an ad- drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the mu- venturous, not particularly strenuous activity for those sic is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor faithful who cherish the English tradition of spending is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with an enjoyable evening wandering from one pleasant the trendy good-looking staff an added bonus. Tsvetochki hostelry to the next in the company of friends both attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night old and new. Come with us on a special trip through in a laidback fashion, so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul. the city centre, punctuated by your favourite watering- Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 holes (you’ll spot them by their colour: our pub signs, 54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW staff uniforms, even our upholstery is all in the same dark blue Dickens hue). Collect two stamps on our spe- cial Blue Route flyer, and claim your free pint of proper Tyomnoe – Dark English ale in the third pub you visit. (Stamps valid for Svetloe – Light (for beer) one day only). Read more at www.dickenspubs.com

40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 41 Nightlife Nightlife

42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 43 What to see What to see Peter and Paul Fortress The Fortress is the cradle of the city and St. Petersburg’s modern art centres first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the fa- mous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river- side views. The proudest offerings are the large Comman- dant’s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which focuses on the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Pet- for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, ropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Mu- 08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral seum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROS- open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. PHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the Russian Museum biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of Kazan Cathedral A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the Russia, and houses around 2000 works. the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is Anna Nova Art Gallery greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 times. They did however add a few hundred apartment mon- to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. strosities outside of town. The city has an enormous amount dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured medium. Erarta of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. beautiful and steeped in fascinating history. like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contem- collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. plation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) an especially strong display of work from the turn of the Marina Gisich Gallery 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stro- QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. The Essentials Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. ganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. Aleksander Nevsky Monastery host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, Novy musey Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox mon- Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. astery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. of Anthropology and Ethnography) ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kun- Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. S.P.A.S Gallery where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest com- stkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) posers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the St. Isaac’s Cathedral 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru. Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s ROSPHOTO the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cul- largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF- tures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Au- (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. 3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collect- guste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily ed on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection, the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great, who 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars, still was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear CITY CARD draws crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmi- day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the pan- Church of the Saviour on the Spilt ralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. oramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievs- Get the most out of your Blood ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the kaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, trip to St. Petersburg with This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Col- the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of onnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40 memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof. it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was mur- Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist servi- dered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because ces and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall Take note that most museum ticket offices close with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to featuring a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in one hour before the official closing time. get to know the ins and outs of this amazing city, the Pe- the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD- Also remember most museums ask you to buy tersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available 2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) an extra photography ticket if you would like in 2, 3, 5 and 7 day options for your convenience. More 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. to take photos or videos information at www.petersburgcard.com. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. 44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 45 What to see What to see Churches Museums Historical Outskirts Getting there St. Petersburg is home to St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum un- Russia’s winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better many different churches der the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something weekend escape than spending some time at one of the Pushkin – Pavlovsk and monasteries, all with for everyone! many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is a great Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of beautiful architecture. Artillery Museum opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling crowds St. Petersburg. Of course there is St. QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kro- of tourists, or wander through the snow covered parks. The By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: Isaac’s Cathedral, which nverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow beneath your for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or is the largest Russian Or- 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. feet all help to calm the soul and give you a chance to pre- take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. thodox Cathedral in the Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission pare yourself for the upcoming year. If you are tired of being From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, city, and one of the larg- 50 - 300Rbl. cooped up at your apartment or in the office, then head for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. est domed cathedrals in Museum of the St. Petersburg out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build a snow By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train the world. It houses a Avant-garde (Matyushin house) castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have a snow station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, fight. Dress warmly and have fun in the snow! From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission Oranienbaum For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral 60 - 100Rbl. Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral Museum of Political History of Russia tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), lovely place for a walk through peaceful gardens and Kupchino metro/train station. buildings give wonderful glimpses into Russia’s past. MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory. pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter Peterhof – Oranienbaum Smolny Cathedral ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holi- on the Finnish gulf and Oranienbaum is located 40km 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, bell- Yusupov Palace day spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque west of St. Petersburg. tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, outside and rococo within.QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 www.oranienbaum.org. Check opening times online. marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You St. Nicholas Cathedral 314 98 83, www.yusupov- can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 palace.ru. Open 11:00 - Pavlovsk station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30. 17:00. Group tours should Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. be booked in advance by describe Pavlovsk. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Troitsky Cathedral phone (+7) 812 314 88 93. its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Insti- Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beau- Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, tut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open Audioguide 500Rbl. tiful architecture and captivating history.QTel. (+7) 812 Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof, 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Check opening take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver Vladimirsky Cathedral Lyrical City times online. that you want to exit next to the fountains. QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) With so many wonderful writers and poets who were 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00. the city without visiting one of the museums honouring Pushkin them. Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of Russian Vodka Museum F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The sum- Museum mer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Vodka Museum QE-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) Selo or the ‘Royal Village’ was renamed Pushkin follow- This small museum pres- 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. ing the communist revolution in honour of one of its ents the long history of Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 - other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. Russia’s national drink, 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities from 12th Century peas- be booked in advance by phone. Peterhof Palace and Park abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with ants through to 20th Cen- Memorial flat of Alexander Blok Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress to the tury presidents. Display QC-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions and it is quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their cases full of vodka bottles 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks. in unusual shapes, old ad- 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Check opening vertising campaigns and Nabokov Museum Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed times online. some funny dioramas ex- QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. each wanted to make their own mark, adding another plain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An official (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Rus- 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Ad- the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade foun- sian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to mission free. tain leading down from the palace. From there the park try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian Pushkin Apartment Museum spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su. 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 - lots of other impressive stuff.QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl. 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Check opening times online. - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl. 46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 47 Hermitage Hermitage A treasure trove Icons at the Hermitage Though the State Hermitage Museum is known primarily The museum’s collection of ancient Russian icons allows for its art collection, the museum also houses a treasure viewers to take a closer look at examples of paintings from trove of gold masterpieces, dating back to early antiq- antiquity and to deeply immerse themselves in the atmos- uity, and diamonds worthy of any safe deposit box. phere of past centuries. The exhibition presents works from The Hermitage’s collection of gold artefacts dates back various schools of iconography, each of which displays its to the eighth century B.C.. The collection traces the rise own unique characteristics. and fall of early Eurasian peoples, as they lived and passed The art of monumental painting from Great Novogorod is through the Ukrainian steppes, the Caucasus, the Altai on display in the 14th century icon collection “Saint Nikolai”. and Siberia. The collection is notable for its two large-scale icons, “The The first gold artefacts date to the time of the Scythians – a Last Judgment” and “The Life of Nikolai”. It also features two nomadic group that moved into the southern steppes from double-sided icon-tablets, created at the turn of the 16th Central Asia. Their art includes belt clasps depicting fight- century, impressing for their artistic value as well as the ing animals, torques and arm bands. The Scythians traded high quality of their preservation. with the Greek colonies on the Black Sea Coast. Depic- Among the icons from Pskov, the icon “The Epiphany” (early tions of these warlike people, who inhabited a broad area 14th c.) deserves the most attention. In this great work, the of what is now Russian and Ukrainian territory, are found salient features that make the Pskov school unique are eas- in the fine work by Greek goldsmiths. Descriptions of the ily visible. Besides this work, the collection also stands out Scythians also survive today in the works of Greek historian for its display of the two-sided icon that unites the images The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the Herodotus. of the “Savior” and “Our Lady” icons (early 14th c.). Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s The museum today The Scythians were replaced by later tribes who moved The icons created by the Moscow masters constitute a sub- certainly not number two”. With over three million works of Visiting the Hermitage should definitely be on the top of into the region, including the Sarmatians, Volga Bulgarians stantial part of the exhibition. Among them, the works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along your must-do list in St. Petersburg. However, the museum and Khazars. Each tribe has left their archaeological traces various types of iconography are on display, including ex- the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress. houses so many works, that it is impossible to see every- behind. One of the more exciting traces on display is the amples of celebratory, Christ and prophetic iconographies. thing in one visit. In fact, it’s said that if you were to spend gold work of the Hunns, whose existence entered popu- Also on display are the remarkable blue-backgrounded just one minute looking at every piece in the museum, you lar folklore during the time of the Great Migrations (fifth icons “The Transfiguration” and “The Birth of Christ”, both 250 years would need a total of 11 years of non-stop looking to see century A.D), when their leader Attila invaded the Roman created in 16th century. This year the world-acclaimed museum celebrated its 250th them all! Empire. The collection also includes icons from the “Northern Let- anniversary. The museum’s central building, the so-called That being said, it’s best to enter armed with a museum While the works in the gold rooms are fascinating both ters“, which were created in the northern territories. These Winter Palace, was originally constructed as a winter resi- map that will help you strategize and design your personal for their historical interest and the skill of their execu- icons were painted by an array of authors, including mem- dence for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna. Architect Bartolom- excursion in the vast space. Also remember to give your- tion, the Diamond room works are also an impressive bers of the secular and clerical clergy, trades people and meo Francesco Rastrelli’s magnificent baroque-style design self plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the display of opulence, wealth, and skill. The rooms include peasants, and are notable for their incredible display of was approved in 1754, but was not completed until eight crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an a range of diplomatic gifts presented to various tsars, in- craftsmanship. The earliest icons included in this collec- years later, at the end of Elizabeth’s reign. In the fall of 1763, absolute minimum amount of time to spend there if you cluding twenty items from the time of the Great Moghuls, tion are the works with depictions of Christ, the Apostle Empress Catherine II arrived in St. Petersburg as the new want to see the main state rooms and some of the most which were a diplomatic gift from Shah Nadir of Persia to Peter, St. Ilya and St. Nikolai, which were produced in the mistress of the palace and commissioned new architects popular artworks. the Russian Empire in 1741. They include gold vessels for northern regions of the Novgorod lands in the 13th-14th and designers to transform the palace to suit her preference The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest fragrances, enamelled boxes and trays, a lidded cup and a centuries. for neoclassical style. It is thanks to the efforts and desires of European movements. Lovers of the renaissance should miniature table. Also on display is a remarkable ring, used Empress Catherine the Great that the Hermitage has become head to the Italian rooms, where the Da Vincis, Cana- to draw the string of a gold bow, with a large diamond, QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortso- the incredible museum it is today. During her 34-year reign, lettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels are housed . The emeralds and rubies. It belonged to Shah Jahan, who vaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, the Empress commissioned the construction of the Large Rembrandt room is another must-see, as are the nearby built the Taj Mahal. www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, and Small Hermitages and the Hermitage Theatre. Not only El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, The museum also houses a unique collection of 17th cen- Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. that, but she also personally purchased the art collections Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top tury Indian jewellery and magnificent eastern weaponry, Audioguide 350Rbl. You can buy tickets at the ticket that form the basis of the Hermitage’s collection today. floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental including swords and daggers sheathed in gold and silver offices inside the museum and via special terminals The year 1764, when Catherine acquired the Johan Gotz- and Middle Eastern art. scabbards and decorated with precious stones. at the entrance to the Great Courtyard. Excursion bu- kowsky collection, is known as the Hermitage Museum’s The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient A pride of the Hermitage collection is a caravel pendant reau (+7) 812 571 84 46. official birthday. Gotzkowsky was a Berlin merchant and an Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from incorporating a magnificent Columbian emerald, com- agent of Prussia’s King Frederick II. Originally, he put togeth- the near and central east. There are also a number of cafes plemented by gold and enamel. It was made by Spanish er the magnificent collection of old masters under Freder- and shops on the ground floor, just to the right of the main craftsmen in the late 16th century. ick II’s commission. However, when the King was unable to staircase after the entrance to the museum, where you can The jewellery collection concludes with items produced by finance the purchase, Gotzkowsky looked for other buyers take a break and re-energize. St. Petersburg’s leading jewellers. St. Petersburg attracted and Catherine II was more than happy to take the offer. The largest number of opulent state rooms, such as the craftsmen from all over Europe and at one time boasted throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock such masters as Jérémie Pauzié, Jean-François Xavier Boud- 250 years after Catherine’s provident purchase, room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries and dé, Johann Gottlieb Scharff, Jean-Pierre Ador and the Thé- which includes over 250 works by Flemish and parlours, are largely located on the first floor (which in remin brothers. The Imperial court and Russian aristocracy Dutch masters, the museum has expanded its col- Russia is the 2nd floor) of the Winter Palace and lead off commissioned the crafting of refined luxury items, such as lection into one of the largest in the world. in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you watches, clocks, bouquets, rings, brooches and snuffboxes, enter the museum, just after the ticket offices). the fashion for which endured in Russia for over a century. 48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 49 Pskov Pskov What to see Getting There Pskov city walls The remnants of the once great fortress of Pskov can liter- Two long-distance trains depart from St. Petersburg’s ally be found on the city’s streets. The five stone walls that Vitebsky Vokzal (metro Pushkinskaya) daily, also stop- once surrounded the city have been reduced to a mere ping in Pskov. Both trains depart at 19:40. shadow of their former glory, but are nonetheless an in- You can also take an elektrichka from Baltisky Vozkal teresting site to behold, especially the old towers which (metro Baltiskaya), which departs daily at 07:05. give a clear image of just how strong this city once was. Pskov has a small airport and its own airline, Pskovavia, It is possible to enter some of the towers near the Kremlin so if you do not wish to spend 4-5 hours inside a bus of Pskov and walk along the stone fortifications. Proceed or train, you can choose to fly to Pskov. Flights from St. with caution when walking directly beside a wall when Petersburg Pulkovo Airport depart on Thursdays, Fri- hard winds are blowing, the structures are old and pieces days, Saturdays and Sundays. A plane ticket will cost of stone can crumble down some of the weak points! you about 1200Rbl and the duration of the trip will be approximately 1 hour. Pskov State Museum The state museum of Pskov consists of multiple buildings, Alternatively, you can easily get from St. Petersburg to now united under one name. The central building of the Pskov by bus. There are several dedicated companies museum hosts various exhibitions dedicated to Pskov and that will take you to Pskov within 4 hours and, to make its region. Directly attached to the main building are the things even better, most offer free WiFi on board. When famous Pogankiny chambers, named after a rich nobleman traveling with one of these companies, be sure to re- who once resided here. In these chambers you will find serve your tickets beforehand. One of Russia’s oldest, most historically significant, yet least If you’re willing to spend a little more time travelling, the various paintings and works of art. Aside from these main Autograf minibus well known cities: welcome to Pskov! Pushkin Hills should also undoubtedly be included in your buildings, there are 5 more parts of the Pskov State museum Daily schedule: 07:30, 09:00, 11:30, 14:00, 17:00, 18:30, Situated a mere 20 kilometres from the Estonian border, trip itinerary. With its rich history and interesting sights, the spread throughout the town. Every part of the museum 20:30. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets Pskov is a perfect city for those who want to explore ancient Pskov region will provide you with more than enough to has its own theme. Join a master class with a Russian black- 550Rbl (kids under 12 years old 400Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 Russian culture before heading off to the bigger centres. explore. smith, or an excursion in the open storage fund collection. 397 22 55, www.auto-graf.ru. The first written reference to Pskov dates back to the year Keep in mind that not all buildings share the same working Avtovizit minibus 903 in the Povest Vremennykh Let (Chronicles of the Old hours!QUl. Nekrasova ul. 7, tel. (+7) 8112 66 33 11, www. Daily schedule: 05:00, 07:00, 09:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, Years) with the marriage of Igor, prince of Kievan Rus’, to Where to stay museums.pskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. 19:00, 21:00. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets Olga of Pskov (c. 890 – 969). Prince Igor’s bride is still hon- No matter how long you plan to stay in Pskov, it is im- 500Rbl (kids under 7 years old free, from 7 years old oured in the Russian Orthodox Church. portant to find an accommodation that suits all of your Monuments to twelve years old 350Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 888 01 40, In its heyday, Pskov was a major trading hub, Kievan Rus’s wishes and needs. Pskov is not as accustomed to tourists The long history of Pskov has left its mark in the form of www.avtovizit.com. largest partner within the Hanseatic Union, and one of as Moscow or St. Petersburg, so do not expect to find grand public monuments. They can be found basically every- Avtofavorit bus the richest cities in the country. Aside from its commercial and luxurious hotels with shiny crystal chandeliers. Pskov where in the city center, the parks and the city outskirts. Daily schedule: 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, value, Pskov was also one of the countries’ most important does, however, offer a wide selection of accommodation, Some of the most interesting monuments can be found 18:00, 20:00, 22:00, 24:00 (additional trips Friday at fortresses, a bastion-city surrounded by five thick stone whether you are a businessman looking for a suitable place near the city centre, for example the monument dedicat- 17:00, 19:00). Leaves from Hotel Park Inn (metro Mosko- walls, unique in contemporary Europe. to prepare your work, or a weary traveler looking for a roof ed to Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s legendary and most vskaya).QTickets 550Rbl (kids up to 10 years 400Rbl). Pskov’s wealth and strategic significance earned it a fair over your head and a pillow beneath it. We have made a list famous poet. Another monument of significance is the www.napiter.ru. deal of unwelcome attention. Approximately one third of the best hotels currently available in Pskov. monument of St. Olga, whose name is often linked to the of the city’s medieval history was spent at war, includ- creation of Pskov. One of the most impressive monuments ing battles with Tatar-Mongol and Swedish troops. One Hotel Rizhskaya is situated a bit further outside town, on the Sokolikha Hill Getting around of the most epic battles fought near Pskov was the Battle QRizhsky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 8112 56 22 23, www.rijskaya. (Falcon Hill). This particular monument is dedicated to on the Ice, won by the legendary hero Alexander Nevsky ru. 265 rooms. Alexander Nevsky, the legendary Russian hero. With a Pskov is not a very large city by Russian standards, so (c. 1120 – 1263). Old Estate Hotel & Spa height of no less than 30 meters, this monument will make you should not have any trouble finding your way More recently, Pskov bore witness to the end of the Russian QVerkhne-Beregovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 8112 79 45 45, you feel like you are a character in a Tolkien story! around on foot. The city bus service is comprehensive, Empire, as Nicholas II (1868 – 1918) was stripped of his title www.oldestatehotel.com. 50 rooms. and a ticket - which you buy from the conductor, just of emperor at the city’s train station. A plaque referring to Oktyabrskaya Hotel Parks like in the old days - will set you back just 18Rbl. Taxis this historical moment can still be found there today. QOktyabrsky pr. 36, tel. (+7) 8112 66 42 46, www.ok- Pskov has some very nice parks where you can either walk, are also a common form of transport in Pskov and are Pskov today is not as glorious as it was a thousand years thotel.ru. 120 rooms. or sit down to enjoy the atmosphere. The Detsky Park very useful if you are not sure which bus to take. Prices ago, but that’s not to say that visiting the city and the wider Hotel & Restaurant Dvor Podznoeva (Children’s Park) can be found near the centre of the city, start around 80Rbl, so expect to pay between 100- region would be a waste of your time – far from it. From QUl. Nekrasova 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvor- and is a perfect place to see how Russian families spend 150Rbl per ride. The train station and main bus station its old city walls to its ancient monasteries, Pskov still en- podznoeva.ru. 75 rooms. their free time. The park has a merry-go-round and pony can be found at the same place in the south-eastern capsulates some of the most fascinating aspects of Russia’s Hotel 903 rides to entertain the children. You can also find two of part of town, and the no. 17 bus will take you right to extraordinary history. QUl. M. Gorkogo 2B, tel. (+7) 8112 57 05 57, www. the city’s many churches inside this park. A little further the city centre. For additional information, pay a visit to Pskov may be the regional capital, but the smaller settle- pskov903.ru. 15 rooms. into town is the Letny Sad (Summer Garden), where the Pskov Tourist Information desk inside the Oktyabr ments surrounding the former fortress are just as interest- Hotel Golden Embankment occasionally small feasts or events are organized. A walk cinema. QPl. Lenina 3, tel. (+7) 8112 272 25 32, ing. Old Izborsk and Pechory, both situated not too far away QUl. Sovetskaya Naberezhnaya 2, tel. (+7) 8112 62 78 in these parks will most certainly clear your mind of any www.tourism.pskov.ru. Open 10:00 – 18:00. from Pskov proper, are must-sees when visiting the region. 77, www.zn-hotel.ru. 15 rooms. troubles. 50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 51 Pskov Pskov

Churches outside PSKOV Where to eat Old Izborsk You will never be hungry when you are in Pskov as the city It is well nigh impossible to look around you in Pskov When visiting Pskov it is almost mandatory to also visit the is bursting with restaurants and cafes. While most hotels of- and not see a church, if not two or three. No less than neighboring town, Old Izborsk. Just like Pskov, Izborsk used fer breakfast, lunch and dinner, it might be more interesting 40 churches have been built inside or near the city, the to be a fortress rather than a city. It was one of the first towns to head into town and have a look at the many cafes and oldest of which dates back to the 12th century, while that invading enemies would encounter, so Izborsk was one restaurants. Whether you are looking for a cup of coffee or some are a lot more recent. Pskov is a paradise for those of the first Russian towns to build stone fortifications for pro- traditional Russian cuisine, you will easily find a place to still interested in old Russian architecture and religion. tection. What truly draws tourists (especially Russians) to Iz- your hunger and quench your thirst. Restaurants in Pskov Some of the churches are no longer in use and are in borsk are its Slovenian water springs, which supposedly each are relatively cheap, especially when compared to cities like a somewhat derelict state, but most are still used and hold a certain virtue. Do not be surprised to see people walk- Moscow. We have listed some of our favourite restaurants open to the public. Keep in mind that many churches ing around with big jugs or bottles - in fact, be sure to bring and cafes in Pskov especially for you! demand that women wear a platok (scarf) around their your own!Qwww.museum-izborsk.ru. Various expositions heads. It is not uncommon for churches to have some at Izborsk will cost between 40-100Rbl, and audio guides Pozharka Tavern spare ones that you can use, but having your own saves (either in English or Russian) for the town are available at a The soothing smell of a burning fireplace and smoked you having to ask at every church you enter. cost of 500Rbl. To get to Izborsk, take bus 126 from Pskov meat greets you as you walk through the big wooden central station (08:00, 12:00, 13:20, and 17:05) or bus route doors of Pozharka tavern. Once inside you will find your- no.207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and self inside a rustic, warm and cosy tavern with an upper Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station. and lower floor. The view from the upper level is gorgeous, allowing you to see the Kremlin. The restaurant has some Nightlife Pechory tasty Russian dishes and dishes prepared on an open fire, Pskov is not only a city of historical richness, it is also a This settlement is noteworthy for the Pskov-caves Mon- but the true specialties come from the tavern’s very own city with many students, who need to unwind after a long astery, the only monastery that has never been closed at smokehouse. An English menu is available for those who week of studying hard. What better way to do that than any point during its existence. The monastery currently need it, but it hasn’t been updated in quite a while result- to enjoy a good night out? Pskov has a variety of clubs, consists of nine churches, which are all quite a sight to ing in small price differences with the Russian menu. Make each with its own face and style. If you like to show your behold. Most interesting however are the caves beneath sure you check the correct prices on the Russian menu moves on the dance floor, Pskov has a couple of places the monastery, which serve as a burial site for pilgrims before ordering to avoid surprise after enjoying your meal. where you can boogey down all night long. When local and monks, but are open to the public.Qwww.pskovo- QNabat ul. 2A, tel. (+7) 911 381 00 65, www.pozharkap- Russians notice you are not from Russia, they will most pechersky-monastery.ru. You can reach Pechory by skov.ru. Open 11:00 – 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 02:00. €. likely try to have a conversation with you, even if they only Trinity Cathedral taking bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00, know a couple of words in English. Do not be afraid to Surrounded by the mighty city walls in the centre of 13:30) or bus 207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 ex- Dvor Podznoeva Halls converse with people, as they tend to be very friendly and Pskov stands the Trinity Cathedral, also known as the cept Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the The Dvor Podznoeva Hotel includes several types of ca- are genuinely interested. Below you’ll find a few places Pskov kremlin. The kremlin is the first stop for most station. tering options for guests staying at the hotel, and people where you can party as much as you like. tourists who visit the city, and is the main icon of who are looking for a place to eat. The signpost at the Pskov. Situated on top of a hillside, the Trinity Cathe- inner courtyard directs you to either the restaurant, the TIR Club dral is an impressive sight to behold, especially when beer hall, the wine hall, or the pastry hall. In the restaurant, Located next to one of the city walls, TIR is a club that you are standing in its courtyard. Aside from being the waiters and waitresses dressed in traditional Russian garb truly has its own identity. The underground style of the city’s main tourist attraction, the cathedral is also used welcome you and bring you to your seat. Most of the inte- bar is reflected by the unusual decorations and music as a regular church by the inhabitants of Pskov. The rior of the building has not changed, giving it an authentic playlists, which offer all types of music. Even some of kremlin also has its own souvenir shop where you can and elegant atmosphere. Aside from the Russian dishes on the dishes on the menu contribute to the unortho- buy such things as religious icons, wooden cutlery, or the menu, you should definitely not skip the homemade dox image of club. The club regularly organises music wooden spiked maces. To each his own! kvas, which is absolutely delicious. That royal feeling you events, which are held near the stage in the back of the get when a waitress refills your glass yet again is free of club. During events you will have to pay admission to Mirozhsky Monastery charge. Q Ul. Nekrasova ul. 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, enter the club, otherwise you can just drop in and have As one of the few pre-Mongol buildings that survived www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. €€. a drink. QUl. Sverdlova 52, tel. (+7) 8112 62 10 54, in Pskov, the Mirozhsky Monastery has a long and in- Pushkin Hills www.tirclub.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun credible history. The monastery’s Christ Transfiguration Due south of Pskov lie the picturesque Pushkin Hills. The Double Coffee 16:00 until last guest. €. Cathedral is known for its beautiful frescoes, which have entire area is pretty much an open air museum situated With its red and black interior, Double Coffee displays a been preserved since the 12th century. Entrance into around the former Pushkin family mansion. The hills breathe modern style. The establishment functions as a bar, café Super the monastery is free and occasionally interactive excur- 19th century atmosphere, and are a great place to discover and restaurant in one, making the menu a versatile one. Situated at the very end of the main street, Super is a sions are held. Paying the monastery a visit just to stroll some of the incredible scenery that can be found in Russia. From breakfast to flashy cocktails, you can sit down at complex which houses a number of clubs and bars. It is through its garden is already a good enough reason to Alexander Pushkin spent two years in exile at this estate, and Double Coffee at any time of the day. The restaurant is possible to enter all of the clubs in the building, but keep do so. The monastery grounds have a certain silence it was here that he wrote some of his most famous works. fit for various occasions, such as having a drink with your in mind that some are a bit more exclusive. You can play and serenity that make them a perfect place to enjoy Just like many other places in the region, the Pushkin Hills friends, organising a business lunch, or having a roman- snooker, go bowling and, if you are up to the challenge, re- a moment of rest, and the site has been included on are not exactly adapted to tourists, so non-Russians speak- tic dinner. The restaurant is situated quite close to Detsky serve a karaoke room for you and your friends. The clubs in the UNESCO list of outstanding architectural landmarks. ers might have some troubles with navigating. It is wise to Park, so it is also a convenient place for those who want to Super often host performances, concerts and even boxing QMirozhskaya nab. 2, tel. (+7) 8112 57 64 03, www. find a guide who can help you get there and show you the rest their weary feet after a walk. QOktyabrsky pr. 20, tel. events, so keep your eyes peeled for interesting happen- mirozhsky-monastery.ru. Admission free. way around the estate, because no matter how beautiful (+7) 8112 66 35 39, www.doublecoffee.lv. Open 10:00 – ings! QOktyabrsky pr. 56, tel. (+7) 8112 66 06 06, www. the hills are, you do not want to get lost. 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 – 01:00. €. superpskov.ru. 52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 53 Where to stay Where to stay Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which allows 4 Stars QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique Center West Pushkin Hotel Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) hotels are located and what market they cater to. The trav- Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskaya- eller looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. stpetersburg. 841 rooms. centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Radisson Sonya Hotel the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet Vasilievsky QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cul- QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. tural programmes. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. 173 rooms . 214 rooms. Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 5 Stars the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. Angleterre Hotel terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms. rooms. QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota 3 Stars 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg (+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms. QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg - 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms. Tchaikovskogo Herzen House Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel. QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. St. Petersburg (+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms. QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) Novotel St. Petersburg Centre IBIS St. Petersburg Centre 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 183 rooms. 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. Golden Garden boutique Hotel QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms. Grand Hotel Europe YOUR REFRESHING STAY QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. IN ST.PETERSBURG Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 Perfect hotel QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. for Business & Leisure (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Radisson Royal Hotel Center West Pushkin Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 33 Kanonerskaya street 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 190121 St. Petersburg, Russia rooms. P: +7 812 610 50 00, F: +7 812 610 50 01 Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) Book online on our website 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.com Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms. U menya zabronirovan nomer – I have a reservation

54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 55 Where to stay Shopping

Ask the Concierge Hermitage Museum and Palace Square, with the first Gifts and Souvenirs Galeria rooftop restaurant with gorgeous views of the historical Chocolate Museum city. But the best thing about my hotel is the people who QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and do their work with such passion and attention to detail - 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 - a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, the details that make all the difference. From December 21:00. A Galeria cannot be missed. The huge and beautiful build- 1st to 7th January we will have our first ever Christmas Gallery Mikhailov ing fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you market, so everyone will have the opportunity to buy QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) would expect from your modern shopping mall and wonderful, sweet gifts for Christmas and New Year. 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. La Petite Opera Gallery Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, What can you tell us about your favourite places QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, Mexx and French Connection to more local Russian de- in St. Petersburg? St. Petersburg changes every year, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox. signer brands as well. It also features a huge supermar- many new restaurants open, new exhibitions welcome net. Open 09:00 - 21:00. ket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some new guests, but the State Hermitage museum has to be Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Lomonosov Porcelain Factory very good restaurants. When with children, head to my favourite place in the whole city. You can spend half Irada Agalarova and I have been Chief Concierge at the QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area the day there not even noticing the time pass, at least Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 for almost exactly a year now. (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A for the young and young-at-heart.QE-3, Ligovsky pr. not until you look through the window and realise it’s I actually graduated with a degree in chemical engineer- Nevsky Souvenir Shop 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www. getting dark! ing, but ever since I was a little girl I have had a passion QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK for St. Petersburg’s luxurious hotels, so ten years ago I de- What hidden gem in St. Petersburg can you recom- ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. cided to follow my dreams and got a summer job in a hotel mend to our readers? What would you say is a must- nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A restaurant. I fell in love with hospitality on the spot, and I visit here during wintertime? Winter in St. Petersburg Pavloposadskie Platki Shop haven’t looked back since. The Kempinski is my third and has a unique atmosphere with decorations all over Nevs- QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 my favourite hotel but I will always remember my first one. ky Prospect, you get a real sense of upcoming Christmas 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Can you tell us something about the Kempinski? and New Year everywhere. But winter in St. Petersburg is Souvenirs Fair Q M What makes it special, and what do you like best simply not winter if you don’t go to see The Nutcracker, D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) A about your work here? The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 and this year you can choose between the classical ver- 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. was founded eight years ago in the very heart of St. Pe- sion of the ballet at the Mariinsky Theatre, and Nacho Du- tersburg, right on the Moika and opposite the renowned ato’s contemporary version at the Mikhailovsky Theatre. Bookshops Bukvoed QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW DLT Department store Dom Knigy QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK

Shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK DLT Department store QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral­ teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. Built in 1909 the building's façade mixes modernist (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - and art nouveau influences, popular at the turn of 23:00. ALK century. Inside, however, the influences are much Nevsky Centre more cutting-edge. Five floors of designer shop- QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 ping promise shoppers a world of luxury goodies 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. from the likes of YSL, Chanel, Versace, Alexander AKW Wang, Gucci, Marc Jacobs and many more. On the Passage top floor there is a restaurant for fashionistas who QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 need to take a break and for the discerning VIP 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 shopper personal stylist services are also available. - 21:00. AK QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmi- Eliseevsky Store ralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 57 Shopping Expat & Lifestyle Expat Contacts Dutch Club St. Petersburg Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com. English Communication Club Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held once a month, in different locations in the city. Addi- tional member based activities, events and groups are organised daily. internations Qwww.internations.org.

Cultural Centres Winter Souvenirs Shapka ushanka Danish Cultural Institute If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible dur- QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 For many of us, part of travelling to a foreign country, ing your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed whether for business or pleasure, is finding and selecting then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear Sat, Sun. HEALTH AND beauty something special to bring back home. Luckily, St. Peters- flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with red stars on Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik Royal Thai burg shops and markets are chock full of beautiful and it automatically earns you double spot-the-tourist points. QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 Royal Thai is perfectly located as a relaxing retreat right interesting gifts and souvenirs. You are sure to find some- Most of the things you can get in markets are made from 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat in the city centre. Soothing dark woods, calming Bud- thing that suits everyone on your list, from close family and fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an investment, real fur 11:00 - 19:00. dha statues and dim lighting greet you as you enter and friends to colleagues and clients. And we’re not just talking hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur Finnish Institute set the tone for a calming and rejuvenating experience. about your average brightly-painted, glitter-splashed ma- shops all over the city. QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky Treatments from expert Thai masseurs are available trioshka dolls and kitschy Lenin badges, though those are pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 - from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and certaintly available in abundance. If you are looking to take Valenki 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. scrubs and foot massages, and as well as an assorti- some extra special and quintessentially Russian gifts home Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially Istituto Italiano di Cultura ment of traditional Thai treatments like herbal and aro- with you this winter, we recommend you consider purchas- designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 ma therapy massages to choose from. The focus here is ing some of the following: very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 on mind, body and spirit. After one session here you’ll to wear them about town you will need to buy some rub- - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe. Platok ber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they The Netherlands Institute Royal Thai has numerous other locations including one A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) on the 6th floor of the Nevsky Centre at Nevsky pr. 114- beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 116 (tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29). Gift certificates available. patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks Closed Sat, Sun. QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your (+7) 812 315 54 06, www.royalthai.ru. Open 10:00 - winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves skin as you walk. 22:00. A around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer Religious Services over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka Catholic Church of St. Catherine THANN Sanctuary Spa look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 Founded in 2002 in Thailand, and now operating in over is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. These ex- 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. 25 countries worldwide, THANN Natural Beauty produces quisitely patterned scarves come in multiple shades of gray Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. a range of unique skincare products using natural ingre- and brown and are both extremely beautiful and extremely Katarina (Swedish church) dients, formulated from botanicals derived combining warm. The authentic, hand-spun ones are so delicate and QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. the art of natural therapy with modern dermatological silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a wed- (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/ science. The core ingredient in THANN’s wide range of ding ring. The scarves can be worn however desired, as Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/. products is the Vitamin E-rich extracts of rice bran oil. The a scarf or headcover or, for extra-warmth, wrapped criss- Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Ma- THANN Sanctuary Spa, opened in St. Petersburg in 2010, cross around the chest and shoulders and worn under a ria Church encapsulates the company’s holistic approach, helping coat. Anything pickled QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. you to re-discover your inner physical and mental well- Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the mas- (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. ness. The warm grey colour scheme, soothing light and ters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread Grand Choral Synagogue specially designed furniture aim to induce calm and almost always includes domashnie soleniа or “homemade of St. Petersburg tranquility in contract to the hectic city outside. A high- pickles”, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers, QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 light among the wide range of treatments is the THANN tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets. Since pick- 713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for Sanctuary Signature Massage - a deep tissue oil massage, led vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. using palm strokes and thumb pressure to relieve and of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul heal muscular pains. QE-3, Nevsky Centre, Nevsky pr. substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price. QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 449 08 36, www. 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00. thann-spa.ru. A 58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 59 Expat & Lifestyle Metro map

The Expat Experience LEARN russian at the liden & denz Pia Viitkikko originally hails from Helsinki, and throughout Dictionary for expats: No pain, no gain her varied career has worked If a Russian tells you: “Bez truda ne vytashchish i rybku in such fields as construction, iz pruda”, you could be forgiven for not understand- real estate, fashion and mod- ing the expression whatsoever. The literal translation elling. In December 2010 she for this phrase is ‘Without effort, you cannot even pull added the spa and wellness a fish out of a pond’, and it was coined by fishermen industry to her cv by launch- who used the expression to explain their large catch to ing the THANN brand in Russia. THANN’s flagship spa and passers-by. It is difficult to find concrete meaning be- retail store is located in St. Petersburg’s Nevsky Centre. hind these words, but the phrase indicates that nothing can be achieved without a lot of effort and attention to What makes St. Petersburg special for you? Can detail. When translated idiomatically, the phrase simply you compare it with other big cities you’ve been to/ means ‘no sweet without sweat’. worked in? I have been traveling between Helsinki and St. Petersburg since 1995 and have had the opportunity to follow closely how this city has changed and developed over the last two decades. I really can’t compare St. Peters- burg to anywhere else, it is in a league of its own. There Liden & Denz opened in 1992 and is one of St. Peters- is something for everyone here: museums, churches, art burg’s oldest language schools. They have expanded galleries, restaurants, parks – you name it! There are sim- into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian ply endless possibilities to spend your free time, to get is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though to know the city and to study its history. For us Finns, St. individual lessons are also available. Classrooms are Petersburg is our nextdoor neighbour: a metropolis with bright and equipped with televisions and DVD play- almost as many inhabitants as the whole of Finland right ers. There are computers with internet access for on our doorstep. For example, the Allegro train, which is a student use, plus wi-fi if you want to bring your own Finnish-Russian joint project, whisks you from the centre laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. of Helsinki to the centre of St. Petersburg just in 3,5 hours. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Why THANN, and why St. Petersburg? In St. Peters- burg, both visitors and locals appreciate the finer things in life! THANN is a world-renowned spa based on the Derzhavin Institute holistic concept of lifestyle and aromatherapy, and was recently voted one of the top 55 spas in the world by The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw your- Condé Nast. We operate in 25 countries across Europe, self into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one Asia and the USA, offering natural hair and skincare prod- wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin man- ucts formulated from botanicals that the art of natural sion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven therapy with modern science. classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. There’s also a library, common rooms and comput- What are your plans for the future? My future plans ers with free internet access for students. Short-term, are focused principally on my business. Our target is to long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at have a THANN spa and retails store in all Russian cities all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses with over a million inhabitants, with a distribution net- for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of work through existing chains of cosmetic product shops, 8 students per group. The staff speak many different together with partners and franchisees, and also to de- languages and have experience in teaching at both velop our new project - hotel amenities. Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise accommodation, excursions and other social activities How do you spend your free time in St. Petersburg? for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, What are your favourite spots in the city to visit at MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 the weekend? My family lives in Finland, so I spent most 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes of my weekends there, but when I stay here I love to go to till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun. Advertise on this map! the ballet and to listen to live music, especially jazz. I also enjoy going out to eat with friends, exploring the wide Call: range of different restaurants that St. Petersburg has to If you would like your expat or business offer. And when it comes to my health and wellbeing, of group to be featured here, just drop us a line (+7) 812 448 88 65 course I pamper myself with a relaxing THANN treatment! at [email protected]

60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 61 BOLSHOY NEVKI NAB. AKADEMIKA PAVLOVA UL. 1 59 KANTEMIROVSKAYA UL. KANTEMIROVSKY 55 ALEXANDRA MATROSOVA UL. MALOY NEVKI NAB. MOST 51 LITOVSKAYA UL.

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RYUKHINA UL. RYUKHINA GRENADERSKAYA UL. MORSKOY PR. 29 METALLISTOV PR. KRESTOVSKY 24 2 OSTROV 4 BOLSHOY SAMPSONIEVSKY PR. BATAREINAYA DOROGA 30 PETROGRADSKAYA UL. PETROGRADSKAYA NEISHLOTSKY PER. DINAMO PR. BOLSHAYA NEVKA RIVER RIVER 40 LEVASHOVSKY PR. PL. LVA FOKINA UL. KRESTOVSKY PR. SPORTIVNAYA UL. PIROGOVSKAYA NAB. PISKARYOVSKY PR. TOLSTOGO LVA TOLSTOGO UL. 21 POLYUSTROVSKY PR. 33 LEVASHOVSKY PR. CHKALOVSKY PR. KAMENNOOSTROVSKY PR. ZHUKOVA UL. 44 24 PETROGRADSKAYA NAB. . 40 VYBORGSKAYA UL. MINERALNAYA UL. 8 B MALY PR. 84 25 NA KOTOVSKOGOCHAPAEVA UL. A 65 Y NEVKAV 14 LENINA UL. RENTGENA UL. LESNOY PR. UZHNA E 23 YA DOR AR BOL. ZELENINA UL. YUZHNAYA DOROGA OGA Z 26 LA 30 MALAYA RALA 28 GATCHINSKAYA UL. ADMI 48 BOL. MONETNAYA UL. SMIRNOVA UL. 22 ORANIENBAUMSKAYA UL. 13 BOLSHOY PR. KRONVERKSKAYA UL. 15 VATUTINA UL. L. PEVCHESKY PER. . MIRA UL. CHAPAEVA UL. 13 U L 22 PIONERSKAYA UL. 30 U A KORPUSNAYA UL. 23 A AVSTRI- AY Y 8 K CHKALOVSKAYA A SKAYA PL. S SK H 30 R 16 16 24 Z A 11 6 BOTKINSKAYA UL. O 11 K SAMPSONIEVSKY KONDRATYEVSKY PR. SHSABLINSKAYA UL. 1 7 14 SVERDLOVSKAYA NAB.FEODOSISKAYA UL. D 35 KRASNOGO KURSANTA UL. U MOST 34 A . P L 33 L VOSKOVA UL. O M A FINLYANDSKY PR. V ARSENALNAYA UL. NEVA PETROVSKAYA KOSA M 35 25 2 O 2 MALY PR. 4 GARDEN N A NVERKSKY PR. PIONERSKAYA UL. R KRO 15 MICHURINSKAYA UL. 4 5 ZHDANOVSKAYA21 UL. CHKALOVSKY PR. BOL. PUSHKARSKAYA UL.K KLINICHESKAYA UL. NEVA RIVER REVOLYUTSII SHOSSE 25 VVEDENSKAYAI NUL. A 1 26 U KUYBYSHEVA UL. L GORKOVSKAYA 7 1 50 14 . 2 4

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G . PL. 102 K 25 A 13 MYASNAYA UL. LERMONTOVSKY PR. N 84 BOROVAYA UL. 11 PER. MAKARENKO 129 FONTANKA RIVER A 18 ROMENSKAYA UL. 116 L OBUKHOVSKOY OBORONY PR. PRYAZHKI REKY NAB. DERZHAVINSKY PER. A 112 156 U L PODYEZDNOY PER. 19 135 . 121 LOTSMANSKAYA UL. KANONERSKAYA UL. OBVODNOGO KAN. NAB. VITEBS KAYA UL. VEREISKAYA UL. MARATA UL. 26 6 4 KLIMOV PER. PODOLSKAYA UL. PSKOVS KAYA UL.GRIBOEDOVA KAN. 49 27 21

19 LIGOVSKY PR. 2 ZAGORODNY PR. 126 LABUTINA UL. RUZOVSKAYA UL. PAVLOGRADSKIY 5 132 32 143 ATAMANSKAYA UL. 178 29 FONTANKY REKY NAB. 1 TYUSHINA UL. PER. SADOVAYA UL. TEKHNOLOGICHESKYSERPUKHOVSKAYA UL. LUBLINSKYPER. 15 INSTITUT 6 31 OBVODNY KANAL MOZHAISKAYA UL. 91 FONTANKA RIVER LERMONTOVSKY PR. 1-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. BRONNITSKAYA UL. KONSTANTINA89 ZASLONOVA83 UL. TROITSKY PR. IZMAILOVSKY PR. KLINSKY PR. 20 2 145 Aleksand39er Nevsky Monastery DROVYANAYA UL. SOVETSKY PER. 38 OBVODNOGO KAN.NAB. 156 2-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA1 UL.

144 CHERNYAKHOVSKOGOUL. T 13-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. 17 75 S 43 BATAISKY PER. Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox mon- I 30 O 3-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. 166 L 99 K 8-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL.2 MOSKOVSKY PR. 49 O 4-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. astery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. V 1 S 9-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. K RIZHSKY PR. O 5-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. О ВОЗМОЖНЫХ ПРОТИВОПОКАЗАНИЯХ ПРОКОНСУЛЬТИРУЙТЕСЬ СО СПЕЦИАЛИСТОМ Trinity cathedral and the cemetery are both worth a visit. G OBVODNY KANAL 40 O 10-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. 52 U 6-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYAEGOROVA UL. UL. MALODETSKOSELSKY PR. L RYBINSKAYA UL. Find our review on page 36 . Find30 our review2 on page 27 Find our review on page 59 GLUHOOZERSKOE SHOSSE 119

KURLYANDSKAYA UL. NEFTYANAYA DOROGA 57

54 BOROVAYA UL. 7 54 30 KURSKAYA UL.

57 OBVODNY KANAL STAROPETERGOFSKY PR. STEPANA RAZINA UL. 171 149 129 189 175 VORONEZHSKAYA UL. 209 PRILUKSKAYA UL. 227 OBVODNOGO KAN. NAB.

DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. OBVODNY KANAL TAMBOVSKAYA UL. RASSTANNAYA UL.

BALTISKAYA FRUNZENSKAYA

B. Y REKY NA OIK M Street register Moscow

1-28-ya liniya B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2,3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Anichkov most E-3 Kronversky pr. D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Shvedsky per. D-2 Baskov per. E-2 Letny sad D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Solyanoy per. E-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Liteiny most E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Blokhina ul. C-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2,3 Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business getting there Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Spassky per. D-3 capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2,3/C-2 from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting- from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 reflect its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Mos- also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1,2 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 cow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent histo- which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2,3 ry and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed. Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1,2 Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 train which brings you right to the centre. Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Churches Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Marata ul. E-3 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 Luxury Trains to Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2 Troitsky most D-2 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Tuchkov most C-2 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for Moscow Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking re- quired call (+7) 495 637 28 47). If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Efimova ul. D-3 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Universitetskaya nab. C-2,3 Novodevichy Monastery capital it is worth considering taking a private train. Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every Galernaya ul. C-3 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Vosstaniya ul. E-2,3 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. Pokrovsky Monastery Glinki ul. C-3 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2,3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 After being shown to your cabin you will find your QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 beds have already been made up with real duvets Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Zagorodny pr. D-3,4/E-3 Admission free. spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to Grafsky per. E-3 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3 your room in the morning and if at any moment dur- ing the trip you experience some problems you can Griboedova kan. nab. C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Museums call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed Grivtsova per. D-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 All-Russian Decorative Art Museum and they will come to you! If you want to wake up Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Abbreviations QDelegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu Q M Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Ul. – Ulitsa money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal ( Pl. Voss- 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed taniya) at 00:26 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For Iskusstv pl. D-3 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pr. – Prospekt Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Pl. – Ploshchad GULAG History Museum www.megapolis-te.ru Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Bul. – Bulvar QUl. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Per. – Pereulok 11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Ad- Karavannaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Kan. – Kanal mission 150Rbl. Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Nab. – Naberezhnaya State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3,4/D-3 Bol. – Bolshaya QTverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Mal. – Malaya www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. 64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket December 2014 - January 2015 65 Moscow The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QUl. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery QLavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission NEW YEAR'S EVE PARTY 2015 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. Aeroexpress Trains AT HOTEL ASTORIA hotels The most reliable way of travelling to and from air- ports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow "SNOW KINGDOM" run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sherem- QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) etyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnu- 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227 kovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is con- Lotte Hotel Moscow For advance bookings, please contact Elizaveta Smirnova at: nected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes QNovinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo +7 812 494 57 57 | www.roccofortehotels.com Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress Airport Hotel ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail ter- QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, minals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www. agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms aeroexpress.ru. (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora Download their free mobile app and you will be able to QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at 231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel from your smartphone/tablet screen. QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 If you are a Master Card Pay- 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (5500 Pass or VISA PayWave hold- Room prices start ). er, you can easily pay for the Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya fare directly at the turnstiles QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 Aeroexpress. 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya The Aeroexpress hotline is QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusska- (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls ya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. from within Russia are free). 162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh Ivan Hostel QPetrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com facebook.com/RFHotelAstoria vk.com/astoria_hotel @astoriahotel 66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com