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Parisbyscent Katrina Lawrence Follows Her Nose to 10 of the French Capital’S Most Creative and Fragrant Perfumeries, a Heady Mix of Crystal, Gilt, History and Glamour

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Parisbyscent Katrina Lawrence Follows Her Nose to 10 of the French Capital’S Most Creative and Fragrant Perfumeries, a Heady Mix of Crystal, Gilt, History and Glamour PARISbySCENT Katrina Lawrence follows her nose to 10 of the French capital’s most creative and fragrant perfumeries, a heady mix of crystal, gilt, history and glamour. Photography Carla Coulson Stairway to heaven The Serge Lutens boutique at the Palais Royal. Opposite: Guerlain on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. GUERLAIN LES PARFUMS DE ROSINE pastel-hued miniature candles, boutique is a dark and decadent Guerlain is the grande dame of This bijou boutique radiates a lined up like mouthwatering mix of black and violet; his French fragrance, with a history rosy glow, which is apt, given macarons (and priced at fragrances are suitably sexy and of groundbreaking perfumes that Les Parfums de Rosine a reasonable $19 each). seductive. It refers back such as 1889’s Jicky (widely specialises in rose-based The one to try La Rose de Rosine, perfectly to the Palais Royal credited as the first modern fragrances. Belle Époque an old-world, ultra-feminine itself – after all, this was a mecca fragrance) and the ultimate couturier Paul Poiret launched rose-rich blend. for all sorts of libertine and oriental, 1925’s Shalimar. So any the brand (Rosine was the name 105 Galerie de Valois, Jardin du licentious behaviour in the 18th self-respecting perfume fan of his daughter) with perfumes Palais Royal, 1st arrondissement, and early 19th centuries. These must visit the Champs-Élysées created by Louis Panafieu, but it +33 1 42 60 11 51, les-parfums-de- days, a spritz of Serge (plus a boutique, designed in 1914 by was Panafieu’s descendant, rosine.com. Métro: Palais Royal. swipe of his dark lippie) may just Charles Mewès, of Hotel Ritz perfume professional Marie- enhance a romantic Palais Royal fame. Head up the gilt-specked Hélène Rogeon, who in 1991 SERGE LUTENS rendezvous of your own. Look stairs, which lead you into a opened the boutique and Wander south from Les Parfums for the boutique-only blends glittering world of fragrance introduced a spectrum of rosy de Rosine and you’ll soon come and engraved bottles. Here, you (literally: the walls are tiled in scents from the fresh to the across a perfumery imbued with can also buy any of your swirls of gold mosaic, and a ultra-pretty and the decidedly another mood altogether. favourite perfumes in an floor-to-ceiling mesh chandelier seductive. For an extra treat, Where the former is rosy and exclusive, and exquisite, glass shimmers beautifully). The store choose from a selection of feminine, Serge Lutens’s bell-shaped bottle.> was recently renovated by French designers Andrée Putman and Maxime d’Angeac, Serge Lutens’s boutique refers back perfectly to the Palais Royal to stunning effect. You can buy itself – after all, this was a mecca for all sorts of LIBERTINE AND more than 100 Guerlain LICENTIOUS BEHAVIOUR in the 18th and early 19th centuries. fragrances here, including reworked versions of classics packaged in gorgeous, personalised atomisers or the classic “bee” bottles. Oh, and if you have a spare $51,000, you can even order two litres of your very own bespoke scent. The one to try Elixir Charnel in Gourmand Coquin, a decadent The word “sillage” translates as “the perfume wake A half-century or so later, designer Gabrielle chocolate-infused brew. a woman leaves behind her”. And it’s a concept that is “Coco” Chanel launched her now famous No.5, a 68 avenue des Champs-Élysées, most potently realised in Paris, a city where women are glorious concoction of creamy florals that perfectly 8th arrondissement, +33 1 45 62 52 57, guerlain.com. as passionate about their perfume as they are about a captured the seductive flair of French women. The Métro: George V. perfectly proportioned tartine. American soldiers of World War II knew this when “It is part of the mystery,” laughs Camille Goutal, they queued up on Rue Cambon to buy bottles for L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR the artistic director of the fragrance house Annick their girlfriends back home; today, the fragrance L’Artisan Parfumeur’s “grande Goutal. “Generally, French women go towards the remains a global bestseller, referred to by envious boutique” faces off with the classics and are not afraid of trying niche perfumery competitors as “le monstre”. eastern façade of the Louvre fragrances which use high-quality ingredients in “Paris is the commercial centre of perfume,” says known as Perrault’s Colonnade, designed in 1665 by Claude their composition, and therefore guarantee a ‘chic fragrance expert and author Michael Edwards. “It has Perrault. At that time, the à la Française’,” Goutal says. provided the consumers but also the people, such as Louvre was the royal residence, Uncommon scents Perfume is certainly in a Parisienne’s blood. François Coty, who have made the industry what it is and it’s not difficult to imagine Above, from inset left: Catherine de’ Médici, the infamous Italian-born today.” Edwards, who is based in Paris for six months the Sun King’s great mistress, Guerlain’s original queen of France, introduced French women to the each year, notes that the city serves as both a great Madame de Montespan, perfume scents; power of fragrance back in the 16th century, having showcase for perfume and an exhilaration for perfume- spritzing herself with the kind 350,000 golden tiles brought her personal perfumer – and, some say, lovers. His favourite olfactory destinations include his of nature-inspired scents make up the walls at L’Artisan Parfumeur does so poison-maker – with her to Paris. Marie-Antoinette, local fruit and vegetable market (complete with a side Guerlain; fragrances by well. While the brand has only that other notorious queen, was also a perfume trip to the fromagerie and boulangerie), a Mariage Serge Lutens. been in existence since the late Opposite, clockwise aficionado; so much so that she insisted on taking Frères teahouse (where, incidentally, the great Jean- 1970s, there is something truly from top left: classic her huge trousseau of bottles with her on her ill- Claude Ellena found inspiration for Eau Parfumée au timeless about these delicate Guerlain fragrances fated attempt to escape the revolution. France’s Thé Vert, the breakthrough Bulgari classic), and, of and enchanting fragrances. in the emblematic bee next leading lady, Empress Joséphine, was said to course, Parisian perfumeries themselves. The one to try La Chasse aux bottles; downstairs reek of musk, possibly in an attempt to appeal to her A sojourn to Paris isn’t complete without a visit Papillons – think spring in a bottle. at Guerlain’s Champs- husband’s more primal sensibilities; while the other to a few such boutiques – and nothing serves as a Élysées boutique; 2 rue de l’Amiral de Coligny, Napoléon’s wife, Empress Eugénie, favoured more more perfect souvenir than a Parisian perfume, with 1st arrondissement, the façade of Serge feminine, floral scents, many of them created for her each spritz transporting your senses back to the city +33 1 44 88 27 50, Lutens in the Jardin du by an up-and-coming perfumer by the name of Pierre- by the Seine. Read on for 10 of the best, most fragrant artisanparfumeur.com. Palais Royal. François Pascal Guerlain. addresses in town. Métro: Pont Neuf. 162 gourmettraveller.com.au 163 The one to try Chergui: sweet, may not be very Parisian, but it’s ingredients about, as well as 6th arrondissement, smoky and utterly mesmerising. exquisite nevertheless. splurge on the new prestige +33 1 43 29 52 42, lubin-parfum.fr. 142 Galerie de Valois, Jardin du The one to try Om, an incense- line – or “collection excessive” Métro: Mabillon. Palais Royal, 1st arrondissement, spiked oriental that works – of fragrances. +33 1 49 27 09 09, sergelutens. perfectly with a flowing sundress. The one to try Jasmin de Nuit, ANNICK GOUTAL com. Métro: Palais Royal. 17 rue Ferdinand Duval, 4th jasmine swirled with spices for a There are several Annick Goutal arrondissement, +33 1 42 78 28 39, heady, hedonistic effect. boutiques in Paris, but it’s the MILLER ET BERTAUX milleretbertaux.com. 10 rue Ferdinand Duval, 4th one on Place St-Sulpice, just Once you’ve feasted Middle Métro: St-Paul. arrondissement, +33 1 42 78 19 34, around the corner from Lubin, Eastern-style at Le Marais’s thedifferentcompany.com. that will live up to your Chez Marianne, head up THE DIFFERENT COMPANY Métro: St-Paul. expectations of fantasy Parisian Rue des Rosiers and turn into Down the road a little, you’ll perfumeries. Its gilded detailing, Rue Ferdinand Duval for a little stumble across one of the most DIPTYQUE candy-striped walls and more exotica. Designers Francis exciting things to happen to Grab a Berthillon sorbet on Île shimmering chandelier provide Miller and Patrick Bertaux have French perfumery in years. St-Louis and stroll south to the perfect showcase for such sold their eclectic clothes here The Different Company was Boulevard St-Germain towards French and feminine fragrances. since 1990; for the past five launched in 2000 by designer Diptyque’s original floral- Annick Goutal is much loved for years, they have focused on Thierry de Baschmakoff and wallpaper-lined boutique. It’s its beautiful blends – not to expanding their perfume range. legendary nose Jean-Claude best known for its cult-status mention its fluted, beribboned In their fashions and fragrances Ellena (who passed the candles, but you can now buy bottles, which are as delectable alike, inspiration comes from perfumer’s baton on to his fragrances, body care and a as the blends inside. Rounding their travels, particularly in India daughter, Céline, when he went number of Paris-exclusive pieces out the boudoir theme is the and Asia.
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