Chemistry and Technology of Flavors and Fragrances
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Process Engineering for Bioflavour Production with Metabolically Active
Process engineering for bioflavour production with metabolically active yeasts - a mini-review Magnus Carlquist, Brian Gibson, Yonca Karagul Yuceer, Adamantini Paraskevopoulou, Mari Sandell, Angel I. Angelov, Velitchka Gotcheva, Angel D. Angelov, Marlene Etschmann, Gustavo de Billerbeck, et al. To cite this version: Magnus Carlquist, Brian Gibson, Yonca Karagul Yuceer, Adamantini Paraskevopoulou, Mari Sandell, et al.. Process engineering for bioflavour production with metabolically active yeasts - a mini-review. Yeast, Wiley, 2015, 32 (1), pp.123 - 143. 10.1002/yea.3058. hal-01269072 HAL Id: hal-01269072 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01269072 Submitted on 28 May 2020 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Yeast Yeast 2015; 32: 123–143. Published online 16 December 2014 in Wiley Online Library (wileyonlinelibrary.com) DOI: 10.1002/yea.3058 Special Issue Article Process engineering for bioflavour production with metabolically active yeasts – a mini-review Magnus Carlquist1, Brian Gibson2, Yonca Karagul Yuceer3, Adamantini Paraskevopoulou4, -
According to Said Regulation, the Presence of 26 Potential Fragrance
The perfume industry profoundly changed with the advent According to said regulation, the presence of 26 potential of modern synthetic organic chemistry. A turning point was fragrance allergens must be indicated in the label (list of the discovery of the vanillin synthesis from coniferin in 1874 ingredients), if concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on (the Reimer-Tiemann chemical reaction), which led to the product. Substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or foundation in Germany of what is today one of the world’s toxic for reproduction are prohibited and will be reviewed by largest fragrance suppliers (Symrise). the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) before In 1889, Aimé Guerlain used synthetic vanillin as the “base use is granted. note” of his commercial perfume Jicky introducing the To date, for example, the SCCS consider data insufficient concept of a perfume with a top note, a middle note to ban diethyl phthalates (DEP) and 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and a bottom note. Recognized immediately upon derivatives (parabens) from cosmetics (14), even though the application of the perfume, the top notes of a fragrance European Commission on Endocrine Disruption has listed DEP are generally comprised of the most volatile molecules such as a Category 1 priority substance, based on evidence that as d-limonene in citrus (lemon, orange zest, bergamot). they interfere with hormone function, decrease sperm counts Abundant in lavender and jasmine, the middle notes are in man, inducing early puberty in girls, and reproductive those -
Male Fragrances That Evoke a Feral Growl, Full-Blown Tempests Or The
A WHIFF OF DANGER Male fragrances that evoke a feral growl, full-blown tempests or the swaggering brio of ancient Rome are a bullseye for those who embrace their masculinity, says Lucia van der Post. Photograph by Omer Knaz he first scent I ever truly fell in love with was Schiaparelli’s Shocking, made by the great Jean Carles, and I came across it because my father wore it. I still remember the shock of pleasure when that first light floral note hit me, then the sense of surprise as the herbs, sandalwood and honey began to emerge, and finally it became sexier and more earthy as the oakmoss and what I now know Tto be civet took over. I remember, too, old-fashioned child that I was, that I thought it strange that my markedly heterosexual father wore a scent that seemed so voluptuous and so clearly aimed at women. Today, nobody would think anything of it. Speak to connoisseurs of perfume and as one they reject the notion of male and female scents. As Roja Dove, éminence grise of the perfume world, puts it: “For years floral notes were associated with feminine perfumes and – since men were considered strutting, predatory things – woody, mossy, earthy materials were linked with masculine ones, but the boundaries nowadays have become much more blurred. A rose, after all, has neither a penis nor a vagina – a rose on a man is a masculine rose, a rose on a woman is a feminine rose.” Violet, a note that one would have thought was largely feminine, was much beloved by Italian dandies in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and it was an overdose of violet that made Geoffrey Beene’s Grey Flannel (£45 for 60ml EDT, to which much-respected perfume scholar Luca Turin awards five stars, calling it “a masterpiece”) such a success when it was launched in Clockwise from far left: 1975. -
About the Authors Authors
1099 About the Authors Authors Artin Arshamian Chapter E.42 Karolinska Institutet Artin Arshamian earned his PhD at Stockholm University and is currently a postdoc- Department of Clinical Neuroscience toral fellow jointly at Karolinska Insitutet, Stockholm, and Radboud University, the Stockholm, Sweden Donders Institute for Brain, Cognition and Behaviour in Nijmegen, the Netherlands. Radboud University Centre for Language Studies, and Donders Institute for Brain, Cognition, and Behaviour Nijmegen, The Netherlands [email protected] Anat Arzi Chapter E.45 The Weizmann Institute of Science Anat Arzi is a postdoctoral fellow studying the interaction between olfaction and sleep Department of Neurobiology at the Department of Neurobiology at the Weizmann Institute of Science, Israel. She Rehovot, Israel completed her PhD and MSc in Neurobiology at the Weizmann Institute of Science [email protected] and her BSc at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. Jinhe Bai Chapter B.9 U.S. Dept. of Agriculture – Agricultural Jinhe Bai received his PhD from Osaka Prefecture University. He worked Research Service at the Northwest A&F University Yangling, Osaka EPA, Oregon State US Horticultural Research Laboratory University, and the Produce Safety and Quality and Horticultural Research Fort Pierce, USA Laboratories in the US. Now at the US Horticultural Research Laboratory, [email protected] he works on flavor chemistry of fruits and vegetables, focusing on flavor and quality changes occurring during postharvest storage and processing. Nicolas Baldovini Chapter A.3 Université de Nice-Sophia Antipolis Nicolas Baldovini received his PhD from the University of Corsica. Institut de Chimie de Nice, UMR 7272 CNRS After postdoctoral work at the University Louis Pasteur in Strasbourg Nice, France and the University of Tokyo he was appointed Assistant Professor at the [email protected] Université de Nice-Sophia Antipolis. -
Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification
Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification Miguel A. Teixeira, Oscar Rodríguez, Paula Gomes, Vera Mata, Alírio E. Rodrigues Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering (LSRE) Associate Laboratory Department of Chemical Engineering Faculty of Engineering of University of Porto Porto, Portugal P. Gomes and V. Mata are currently at i-sensis company S. João da Madeira, Portugal AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier The Boulevard, Langford Lane, Kidlington, Oxford, OX5 1GB, UK 225 Wyman Street, Waltham, MA 02451, USA First published 2013 Copyright r 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on how to seek permission, further information about the Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangement with organizations such as the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein). Notices Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden our understanding, changes in research methods, professional practices, or medical treatment may become necessary. Practitioners and researchers must always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and using any information, methods, compounds, or experiments described herein. -
The Senses in Early Modern England, 1558–1660
5 Seeing smell Holly Dugan In January 2013, the Institute for Art and Olfaction commissioned graphic artist Micah Hahn and his design studio AutumnSeventy to create a series of prints on perfumery to commemorate its opening in Los Angeles.1 The result was Molecules, Series 1, which depicts three of the most influential molecules that defined twentieth-century perfumery – aldehyde C12, Iso E Super®, and Galaxolide.2 Gilded and embossed, the prints emphasize the chemical structure of these molecules, even as it renders them as fine art. That the prints are also lightly scented with each aromachemical depicted on it emphasizes the broader, and one might say synaesthetic, take on the mission of the institute: to connect fineart with olfaction. Although it is a visual representation of molecules that define modern perfumery, Molecules, Series 1 thus joins a long art historical tradition of cross-modal representations of sensation, particularly smell. Can a molecule be considered fine art? And, if so, which representation of that molecule best captures its olfactory beauty and renders it ‘visible’? Consider, for example, Hahn’s Galaxolide (Figure 3). It playfully invokes a wide variety of sensory modes to capture the aesthetic of Galaxolide. The print highlights both its chemical formula – C18H26 O – and its structural formula. Both are linked to its cultural associations with perfumery and public health. Galaxolide is a second-generation polycyclic synthetic musk, discovered in the 1960s, meant to synthesize the natural scent of deer musk. Translated into the language of public health, it is a hydrophobic but lipophilic ‘toxin’: it won’t wash off in water and is easily stored in human fat.3 Rendered into the language of commercial perfumery, however, it smells ‘clean’, a ‘musky, flowery, woody odor’ with a ‘sweet, powdery nuance’.4 Both its scent and its structure made it ideal for use in laundry detergents and soaps. -
Etude De La Diversité Des Souches D'oenococcus Oeni Responsables
Etude de la diversit´edes souches d'Oenococcus oeni responsables de la fermentation malolactique des vins dans diff´erentes r´egionsvitivinicoles Mariette El Khoury To cite this version: Mariette El Khoury. Etude de la diversit´edes souches d'Oenococcus oeni responsables de la fermentation malolactique des vins dans diff´erentes r´egionsvitivinicoles. Sciences agricoles. Universit´ede Bordeaux, 2014. Fran¸cais. <NNT : 2014BORD0357>. <tel-01309805> HAL Id: tel-01309805 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-01309805 Submitted on 1 May 2016 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L'archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destin´eeau d´ep^otet `ala diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publi´esou non, lished or not. The documents may come from ´emanant des ´etablissements d'enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche fran¸caisou ´etrangers,des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou priv´es. THÈSE PRÉSENTÉE POUR OBTENIR LE GRADE DE DOCTEUR DE L’UNIVERSITÉ DE BORDEAUX École doctorale des Sciences de la Vie et de la Santé Spécialité : Œnologie Par Mariette EL KHOURY Etude de la diversité des souches d’Oenococcus oeni responsables de la fermentation malolactique des vins dans différentes régions vitivinicoles Sous la direction de M. Patrick LUCAS Soutenue le 16 décembre 2014 Membres du jury : M. E. COTON Professeur à l’Université de Bretagne Occidentale Président M. A. BORDONS Professeur à l’Université Rovira i Virgili de Tarragone Rapporteur Mme. R. TOURDOT-MARECHAL Maître de Conférence à l’Université de Bourgogne Examinateur M. -
A Materialidade Das Práticas Culturais Nas Embalagens De Perfume Do Século XVIII Aos Anos 1920
Fragrâncias visíveis: a materialidade das práticas culturais nas embalagens de perfume do século XVIII aos anos 1920 Maureen Schaefer França* Marilda Lopes Pinheiro Queluz** Resumo O objetivo deste artigo é pontuar historicamente algumas imbricações entre o design de embalagens de perfume, as relações sócio-culturais e a tecnologia, do século XVIII aos anos 1920. A delimitação deste período deve-se à tentativa de pensar a produção dos fragrantes a partir daquilo que Don Slater chama de início da sociedade de consumo, até o período do final da primeira guerra mundial, quando a indústria segue outros rumos. Buscou-se estudar os envoltórios, em sua materialidade, o modo como constituem e são constituídos por discursos sócio-culturais, questionando ou reproduzindo estereótipos, tradições, convenções sociais e relações de poder. cultura material medeia as atividades humanas, sendo capaz também de proporcionar uma herança cultural palpável às sociedades, contextualizada em determinado período e lugar. Palavras Chave: perfumes, design de embalagens, cultura material, história Abstract The aim of this article is to point historically some imbrication between the perfume bottles design, culture and technology, from the XVIIIth to the 1920 decade. The delimitation of this period is the attempt to think the production of fragrant from what Don Slater calls the beginning of the consumer society until the end of World War I, when the industry follows a different course. We sought to study the perfume bottles on its materiality, the way how they dialog with socio-cultural discourse, questioning or reproducing stereotypes, traditions, social conventions and power relationships. Material culture mediates human activities, and may also provide a tangible cultural heritage to societies, contextualized in a given period and place. -
Identification of the Most Aroma-Active Compounds in Strawberries: Variety Differences and the Effects of Heating on Strawberry Puree
IDENTIFICATION OF THE MOST AROMA-ACTIVE COMPOUNDS IN STRAWBERRIES: VARIETY DIFFERENCES AND THE EFFECTS OF HEATING ON STRAWBERRY PUREE By KURT F. SCHULBACH A DISSERTATION PRESENTED TO THE GRADUATE SCHOOL OF THE UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA 2002 This dissertation is dedicated to my parents, Helen and Herb Schulbach. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to express my sincere appreciation to the cochairmen of my committee, Dr. Charles Sims and Dr. Russell Rouseff. I would also like to thank the other members of my committee, Dr. Craig Chandler, Dr. Donald Huber, and Dr. Maurice Marshall. I give special thanks to the graduate students in Dr. Sims’ laboratory, especially Rena Schonbrun, for making the laboratory a great place to work. I would like to thank my parents for their many years of love, encouragement, and support. I would also like to express my sincere gratitude to my girlfriend, Diane Del Gobbo, for her love and support. The financial assistance I received from the University of Florida is greatly appreciated. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS page ACKNOWLEDGMENTS iii LIST OF TABLES vii LIST OF FIGURES ix ABSTRACT x CHAPTERS 1. INTRODUCTION 1 Genetic Studies to Improve Strawberry Flavor 2 Sensory Studies of Strawberry Flavor 3 Chemical Analysis of Strawberry Fruit 3 Gas Chromatography/Olfactometry 5 Strawberry Aroma 5 Objectives 6 2. LITERATURE REVIEW 8 Strawberry Aroma 8 Processing and Storage Effects 11 Chemical Analysis of Fruit Volatiles 13 Solvent Extraction 15 Dynamic Headspace 17 Solid-Phase Microextraction 21 Sensory Analysis of Fruit Volatiles 27 Discrimination Techniques 33 Descriptive Analysis 34 Integrating Chemical and Sensory Analysis 42 Gas Chromatography/Olfactometry 43 Aroma Recombination 54 IV V 3. -
A Study on Fragrance Finish on Modal Knit Fabric M
© 2021 JETIR March 2021, Volume 8, Issue 3 www.jetir.org (ISSN-2349-5162) A STUDY ON FRAGRANCE FINISH ON MODAL KNIT FABRIC M. Sharmila1 Dr.R.Divya2 PG Student Asst Professor Department of Costume Design and Fashion, PSG College of Arts and Science. ABSTRACT Innovative fragrance finish on Modal fabric New textile technologies have enabled the application of cosmetic ingredients on fabric to provide its functional benefit to the end-use product and therefore, cosmetic textiles are moving from research to the stage of commercialisation. Fragrance finish is one such finish that falls under this category. A fragrance is made from a pleasant smelling aroma compound. Aromachology is a science that studies the effects of fragrances on the human body and mind. It researches how scents can be used to induce relaxation and make life more pleasant. Finish was prepared and applied by two methods. Tests were conducted to check the performance properties of fragrance finish and the effect of finish on physical properties and mechanical properties of the fabric for unwashed samples. Comparative analysis of the two finishing application methods was done. Keywords: Modal fabric, knitted, fragrance finish, citronella oil, padding mangle. 1 INTRODUCTION Modal was first developed by Austria based Lenzing AG Company who trade marked the fabrics’ name, but now many manufacturers make their own versions.1 Single jerseys knitted structures are the primary material for intimate clothing as well for the sport wearing. The main expectation of such clothing is to provide higher level of comfort to the human being .2 Fabric Sourcing is on the selection of knitted fabric material of Modal is a wood pulp based cellulosic fiber, made out of pure wooden chips from the beech tree, technically as the European Schneider Zelkova tree. -
ESQ Junjul20
Portfolio Portfolio Feature Feature NOTES FROM THE PERFUME INDUSTRY Olivier Pescheux Givaudan perfumer A Creations: 34 boulevard Saint Germain Diptyque, Amber Sky Ex Nihilo, Arpege Pour Homme Lanvin, 1 Million Paco Rabanne, Balmain Homme Pierre Balmain, Higher Christan Dior ESQ: In hindsight, do you find that trends, current events or cultural movements have an impact on your creations? OLIVIER PESCHEUX: It’s hard to answer with certainty. Nevertheless, perfumers are like sponges absorbing the air of time (Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps is one of the most accurate names you can find). Hence every societal movement leaves its mark on creations, in a more or less obvious way. It’s still too early to know in IN what ways the current health crisis will leave its mark in perfume, but it will leave its mark, that’s for sure. ESQ: Do you attribute gender to certain notes and raw materials? OLIVIER PESCHEUX : Not really, but it’s true that I perceive rose as rather feminine simply because it has been used a lot THE and in significant quantities in women’s fragrances in the West. That’s less true in the Middle East, where the rose also perfumes men. Lavender is rather masculine as it’s used a lot in fougère, the favourite family of men’s fragrances. It’s interesting to note that in Brazil, lavender is also feminine. So it’s more of a cultural affair. Yann Vasnier I’m trying to fight against this natural and cultural leaning, and on Givaudan perfumer the contrary, I use this challenge to fuel my creativity. -
University of Oklahoma Graduate College
UNIVERSITY OF OKLAHOMA GRADUATE COLLEGE GEOGRAPHIES OF KNOWLEDGE IN THE INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY A DISSERTATION SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE FACULTY in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY By BODO KUBARTZ Norman, Oklahoma 2009 GEOGRAPHIES OF KNOWLEDGE IN THE INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY A DISSERTATION APPROVED FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF GEOGRAPHY BY ___________________________ Dr. Fred Shelley, Co-Chair ___________________________ Dr. Bret Wallach, Co-Chair ___________________________ Dr. Robert Cox ___________________________ Dr. Karl Offen ___________________________ Dr. Darren Purcell ___________________________ Dr. Laurel Smith ___________________________ Dr. Andrew Wood © Copyright by BODO KUBARTZ 2009 All Rights Reserved. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The ‘discovery of the world’ has been a stereotypical focus of human geography. However, the research helped me to discover a new world for myself. The fragrance industry delineates a rich landscape of sensorial stimulations. I appreciated not only the experience of smelling perfumes in different environments and the ‘look behind the scenes’ but the diversity of approaches to perfumery in this artistic industry. Therefore, my first ‘thank you’ goes to the industry experts that spend their precious time with me and opened their doors for me in France, Germany, and the United States. Thank you very much for introducing me to a world that you experience, develop, and change every day. Second, a dissertation is a long journey. This one has seen different companions until it came into being. It developed quite a bit over time. My friends in the United States and in Germany contributed through their critique, mental support, active interest, questions, guidance, and feedback. Thus, the second ‘thank you’ goes to all companions.