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FERMENTED SOY FOODS and SAUCE 359 ^'-Naphthol May Be Added As Preserva- the Isoelectric Point of the Protein in Tive, but That Is Not Neeessary If the Sah the Meal

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FERMENTED SOY FOODS and SAUCE 359 ^'-Naphthol May Be Added As Preserva- the Isoelectric Point of the Protein in Tive, but That Is Not Neeessary If the Sah the Meal Fermented Soy Foods and solid or semisolid. They are made by fermenting the soybean curd. Soybean cheeses are unlike American and Euro- pean cheeses in flavor and appearance; Sauce it is too bad that the name cheese has been applied to them. Some of the soy- bean cheeses have a flavor resembling Lewis B. Lockwood^ soy sauce. Others are quite different. Allan K. Smith Many are too salty for the American taste. The Chinese made soy sauce in an- Soybeans, in the form of soy sauce cient times as a household industry. and soybean cheese, paste, sprouts, Descriptions of the process are found in milk, and curd, have been an impor- books written more than 1,500 years tant source of protein in the diet of the ago. It has remained largely a family Chinese and Japanese for centuries. In art; even now^ some manufacturers Asia the whole bean is not ordinarily point wdth pride to the fact that their eaten. The people favor mostly fer- factories have been operated as family mented soy products or other modifi- enterprises for five centuries. cations—sprouts, curd, or milk—in Soy sauce is manufactured by two which the characteristic flavor and basic processes. One involves a fermen- shape of the beans are lost. Only soy tation technique and the other a chem- sauce and monosodium glutamate have ical method. A third procedure, which found much favor in Western countries. is thought to have some advantages, is Asiatic people live largely on a vege- a combination of the two. The third table diet. It is estimated that in China method is still in the developmental meat and eggs make up less than 3 stage. The products of the difTerent percent of the food of the peasants, methods difler somewhat in taste and compared to 21 percent among Ameri- odor; the fermentation product is the cans. About 95 percent of the protein most acceptable. Sometimes the prod- eaten is of vegetable origin. Much of ucts of tw^o basic processes are blended. it comes from soybeans, w^hich form The fermentation method is a mixed about 20 percent of the basic diet in fermentation by three micro-organ- Northern China. isms: A mold, Aspergillus oryzae; a Soy sauce, shoyu in Japanese, is the bacterium, Lactohacillus delbruckii; most popular use made of the soybean. and a yeast, Zygosaccharomyces soja, It is a dark-brown liquid, very salty and Z. major y or a yeast closely related to sharp in flavor. Its odor suggests cooked Haiisenula anómala. In the traditional beef. It accentuates the flavor of vege- Chinese method, the manufacturer tables and meat. Sweetening and thick- adds a prepared mold culture, a koji, ening agents and spices may be added to the soybeans, but relies on chance to give the sauce variety in flavor. inoculation for the bacterium and Soybean paste is a semisolid, mushy yeast. Modern methods include the use food. Its flavor is like that of soy sauce. of pure-culture inocula of all the micro- In Japan it is know'n as miso. It is used organisms needed in the fermentation. as a relish for rice, in soups, and to The materials are soybeans, wheat add flavor to vegetables. or other starchy grains or flour, and Soybean cheeses of the Orient are salt. First, the beans are washed and 357 358 1950-19 5 1 YEARBOOK OF AGRICULTURE then soaked in water for 12 to 24 hours, fermentation process, is then started. depending on the temperature or sea- If it is started too soon, the supply of son of the year. Longer soaking is the mold enzymes, which are respon- needed in winter or when the tempera- sible for certain necessary chemical re- ture is low. The soaking finished, the actions, will be inadequate. If the start beans are drained of excess water and is delayed too long, many spores will cooked with steam under 10 pounds cover the surface of the beans and may pressure. The cooking period covers contribute undesirable flavors to the several hours. sauce. The second step includes the addi- This molded soybean-wheat mash is tion of soft wheat, which has been placed in deep vessels and barely cov- cleaned, roasted, and cracked or very ered with brine made with 22-percent coarsely ground. It is mixed with the salt solution. In the old Chinese fac- cooked soybeans in the ratio of about tories, 50-gallon earthenware vessels 3 pounds of w^heat (initial weight) to are used. These are set in the open and 10 pounds of cooked soybeans (initial are covered only during rain. Many of weight). the old Chinese manufacturers believe In the third step, the mixture of that sunlight, even moonlight, afTects beans and w^heat is inoculated with a the flavor of the sauce. culture of one or more strains of the The beans are stirred daily for the mold Aspergillus oryzae. The inocula- first few^ weeks, then weekly until the tion cultures are made by growing the end of the fermentation period. In mold on steamed polished rice. An modern Japanese and Chinese facto- ounce of rice will make enough koji to ries the aging process is carried out in inoculate 10 pounds of the soybean- concrete vats of about 5,000-gallon parched wheat mash. In modern fac- capacity. Air is blown through the bean tories, cultures of the necessary yeast mash to stir and mix it every 2 or 3 and bacteria are added at this point. days in the beginning, but after several A good yeast growth before the mold weeks the material is aerated for 30 growth becomes apparent is believed to minutes once a week. Gas is given on' result in a sauce of superior quality. In during the first 2 weeks of the brine some modern plants the order of add- fermentation. ing the micro-organisms is changed; After 3 months—preferably after a the yeast is. added to the steamed beans year or longer—the mash is pressed to about a day before mixing them with remove the liquid. This is considered the parched w^heat^ and the yeast starts the best grade of soy sauce. A second to grow before the mold gets under grade is made by suspending the press way. The procedure is said to give very cake in 18- to 20-percent brine and good results. pressing. A third (occasionally a fourth, After inoculation, the mash is spread or even a fifth) grade is prepared by in a layer 3 inches deep in wooden further extraction of the press cake in trays or baskets about 4 inches deep. like manner. Each extraction gives a The trays are stacked so that air will product of weaker flavor and hence of circulate freely over the beans. During less commercial value than the pre- the fermentation stage, the mold grows ceding one. The sauces are pasteurized throughout the mash and gives off at about 65° C. (149° F.). If higher considerable heat. The temperature of pasteurization temperatures are used, the material may reach 40° C. (104° a cloudy sauce results because of the F.) or higher, if it is not controlled. precipitation of partly degraded pro- This phase of the process lasts about 3 teins. Alum is then added as a floccu- days. A thin white surface growth of lating agent, and the%auce is filtered. mold appears, and turns yellowish as The salt content of the sauce, 18 to spore formation begins. The brine fer- 20 percent, prevents the growth of most mentation, or second phase of the micro-organisms. Sodium salicylate or FERMENTED SOY FOODS AND SAUCE 359 ^'-naphthol may be added as preserva- the isoelectric point of the protein in tive, but that is not neeessary if the sah the meal. The isoelectric w^ash removes content is high enough. Cloves, cinna- soluble carbohydrates and nitrogen mon, nutmegs, pepper, ginger, and compounds and raises the protein con- other spices enhance the flavor and are tent of the meal above 65 percent. The believed to prevent spoilage. They are meal is then cooked with 17 percent added only to the lower-grade prod- hydrochloric acid under a steam pres- ucts. Caramel may be added to darken sure of 30 pounds to the square inch the sauce. Licorice or maltose may be for 15 to 18 hours to reduce the protein, added to sweeten it. to amino acids. In place of the soy- The chemical changes in the pro- bean meal, soybean-protein curd may duction of soy sauce are complex and be used as the starting material, and interrelated. Wheat servies as a carbo- constant-boihng hydrochloric acid used hydrate source for the growth of the in the cooking process. After hydrolysis micro-organisms. The mold undoubt- of the protein, the acid is neutralized edly supplies the enzymes necessary to with sodium hydroxide or sodium convert the starch to sugar, which, in carbonate, and the resultant solution is turn, is acted upon by all three micro- marketed as chemical soy sauce. Some- organisms. The mold and yeast pro- times, after incomplete neutralization, duce some alcohol from the sugar. The a crop of crystals of monosodium gluta- bacteria produce lactic acid and other mate is removed. The remaining amino organic acids. Esters, such as ethyl acids arc neutralized, and th(^ concen- acetate, are also formed by interaction tration is adjusted to a suitable amino- of th(i alcohols and organic acid. They nitrogen content. Such a sauce is poorer account for much of the aroma and in glutamic acid but richer in other flavor of the sauce.
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