A special edition of The German Times for the city without walls

Over the past century, this northern borough has been a getaway spot, a communist stronghold, the core of West ’s French sector, a sanctuary for immigrants, an artists’ hub and always its own city within the city. People from over 165 countries live here today – those who have always called it home and those who’ve just arrived. Gritty, not glitzy, Wedding is never a bore. pages 4–5

Wedding Bling-Bling ANNETTE HAUSCHILD/OSTKREUZ BERLIN TIMES 1929 IN A DIFFERENT LEAGUE EVER IN THE MAKING SYMPHONY OF A METROPOLIS Jason Lutes knew next to nothing Union Berlin is the club of under- Berlin remains a startup hotspot. Berlin’s Young Euro Classic youth about the German capital in the dogs. This year the team is playing It’s a magnet for young companies orchestra festival celebrates its Weimar era upon deciding to write shockingly well and could win and aspiring individuals. Why? 20th anniversary. The participants and draw his epic graphic novel promotion to the fancy Bundesliga. Because Berlin is still unfinished as are on their way to becoming about the city. Read the making-of, So, what do the fans chant? an economic space – a place to tomorrow’s stars, and some have written by the artist himself. page 3 “Shit, we’re moving up.” page 6 make a name for yourself. page 7 already made it big. page 8

Capital look Coolness is the Berlin fashion scene’s biggest asset

with a heavy dose of good-natured Fewer shows, less hype. In other lobby.” Bär’s tip to fashion industry young Berlin labels that have Ins- Instagram accounts to promote the BY JULIA HACKOBER pride. They see themselves as words, after its first semi-successful representatives is to spotlight them- tagram to thank for their success: entire range of Berlin-based fashion obliged to give the Berlin fashion iteration, Berlin is selves more effectively and take even Jeanne de Kroon, founder of Zazi offerings while staying true to the n the eve of Berlin Fash- scene all the journalistic support starting over again from scratch. better advantage of the opportuni- Vintage, has her upscale hippie ideas behind “support your local ion Week, a group of they can, all the while nervously The question now occupying the ties provided by digitalization. dresses sewn by women in NGO dealer.“ Obloggers, journalists and watching the evolution of Berlin fashion cosmos is: What, if anything, To be sure, Instagram has com- projects in such places as Uzbeki- The closely networked Insta- Berlin celebrities have gathered at Fashion Week, which was launched remains? We know what Berlin fash- pletely transformed the fashion stan, India and Afghanistan; Marke gram scene has produced a regular Colette, the brasserie run by star in 2007 and has taken place twice ion is capable of, but how do we get industry in recent years, with direct- GmbH (German for: brand) – yes, stream of viral fashion hypes that chef Tim Raue. They were invited a year since. In the beginning, the the word out to the rest of the world to-consumer communications that’s the firm’s name – made the now shapes the external perception by Vreni Frost, one of Berlin’s event was jazzed up and promoted without any noteworthy, large-scale already becoming an integral part leap to the prêt-à-porter shows in of the “Berlin Look.” Such phenom- first and foremost fashion blog- as a veritable alternative to the big fashion event to speak of? How can of many labels’ business strategy. Paris with its underground aesthetic; ena take their inspiration from the gers. There’s bœuf bourguignon shows in London, Milan and New Berlin assert its position as a fash- Especially for small companies, this the jewelry designer Lilian von city’s vibe, that is, a way of life that and nougat mousse, and it just so York. But it never achieved the suc- ion capital? These questions revolve opens up entirely new opportuni- Trapp brought her sustainable gold continues to make Berlin a place so happens that Sahra Wagenknecht cess it was intended to have, espe- not only around how many Fashion ties, because they can attract a highly jewelry to actress Emma Watson via many people want to be a part of and Oskar Lafontaine – a power- cially as its dates in January and July Week parties and cocktail recep- fashion-conscious community with- the internet; the founders of Wald thanks to its club culture, the intel- house left-wing couple and two almost always overlap with the cou- tions have to be canceled; the issue out having to invest in expensive Berlin rescued pearl jewelry from lectual bohème, the clash of milieus of ’s most famous politi- ture shows in Paris and other impor- is a far more existential one: How to exhibition stands or pay rent for a its old-fashioned reputation; and the and mentalities – all of which, taken cal personalities – are sitting at tant international fashion fairs. It draw the attention of international boutique. grande dame of the Berlin fashion together, inspire the fashion scene. the next table. And, as so often was pure folly to expect those key buyers, those department stores and The Berlin shoe brand Aeyde, scene, Leyla Piedayesh, led her label Issues such as sustainability and fair is the case when fashion profes- guests – buyers for large depart- boutiques in London, Paris and Sin- for example, orchestrated its suc- Lala Berlin to international splendor production are also on the minds of sionals gather among themselves, ment stores – to make an extra trip gapore, to German brands? cess story on the internet. The with the help of 100,000 Instagram many labels. Plus, Berliner style is what would in any other setting to Berlin to catch a glimpse of a few Fashion Council Germany – a company was founded in 2015 by followers. never limited to be an innocent question – “So, are junior labels and C celebrities. lobbying body populated by various Luisa Krogmann and Constantin Capital city fashion brands also just being you all looking forward to Fash- These days, Fashion Week Berlin industry players (editors-in-chief Langholz-Baikousis, two industry find digital support in Berlin’s lively ion Week?” – ends up triggering comes to us in a more modest form. and economic associations) that veterans who learned their craft at blogger network. Women like Vreni an hours-long debate. Basically, the most important trade also supports select labels through the largest startup, Frost (neverever.me), Jessica Weiß Of course, everyone is looking fairs, such as the Premium, Pan- elaborate funding programs – hopes Zalando. Leveraging digitalization to (journelles.com), Lisa Banhol- forward to Fashion Week. For the orama and Seek, are garnered with to gain assistance from policymak- scale their company from the start, zer and Tanja Trutschnig 2 on page continued most part, at least. After all, a whole additional shows and events last- ers. The Fashion Council’s oft- they first built a functioning online (bloggerbazaar.com) new and refined designer scene ing only three days. Gone are the repeated mantra is that “fashion shop and then worked on Instagram use their web- has established itself over the past days of the pumped-up celebrity must finally be acknowledged as a with major fashion influencers like sites and several years in Berlin. It’s a scene hype associated with the tent at cultural and economic asset in Ger- Camille Charrière and Lucy Wil- shaped by young people adept at the Brandenburg Gate, which was many.” liams. After that, the doors to those drawing attention to their work abandoned after the event’s main Fortunately, the Fashion Council highly competitive sales areas in through good ideas and idiosyn- sponsor, Mercedes-Benz, withdrew has found in Dorothee Bär, State major European concept cratic imagery, which is essential in in 2018. Organizers have experi- Minister for Digitalization, a con- stores opened up auto- the age of Instagram. William Fan, mented with different concepts tact within the government willing matically. for example, has long since been a and key show locations, such as the to commit to the fashion industry. In fact, there darling of the fashion press for his Eisstadion Wedding (a skating rink) In fact, last year she even invited a are many casual collections that function as and an unused department store delegation from the Berlin fashion something between workwear and in Mitte, only to discard them for scene to visit the federal chancellery, couture. Fan almost always stages something new. Even the “Berliner where Angela Merkel just happened his shows as a form of conceptual Salon,” a group exhibition held at to stop by. In January 2019, Bär also art, setting up runways in such the Kronzprinzenpalais Unter den held a pep-talk at a roundtable dis- varied locations as a Chinese res- Linden, where young, unknown cussion organized by the Fashion taurant or a Zen garden. Among the designers were able to show their Council and Icon magazine where other designers who made the leap collections to the trade press and she assured listeners that support- from young talent to major player buyers, has now been dissolved; the ing the fashion industry was indeed on the fashion scene are Marina founders of that exhibition, German one of the federal government’s Hoermanseder, Malaikaraiss (see Vogue editor in chief Christiane Arp priorities – even if the act of asso- picture), Rianna+Nina and Dawid and event manager Marcus Kurz, ciating with fashion lobbyists was MALAIKARAISS Tomaszewski. announced in March 2019 that they still considered a bit suspicious in German bloggers and fashion had not been able to develop the Germany: “Some of my colleagues editors look upon “their” designers format in a competitive way. prefer to sit down with the nuclear 2 The Berlin Times April 2019 continued from page 1 Capital look

“edgy,” as they say in the fashion world; it always embodies the city’s current zeitgeist as well. Recently, for example, the EUnify hoodie created by the artists collective known as Sou- Perfectly suited venir made a splash on the internet. The blue sweatshirt features the EU circle of stars with one star missing – a conscious challenge on Berlin designer Patrick Hellmann is preparing to take Manhattan behalf of the designers to get their fans to reflect on European identity. The hoodie was worn by hip Louis Vuitton designer Virgil Abloh as well as by Germany’s Minister of €180/night). He even gave the bar a fresh Justice Katarina Barley. BY CLAUDIA VON DUEHREN new outfit: there’s herringbone from his To this day, coolness continues to be the suit collection on the chairs, and the cur- Berlin fashion scene’s greatest capital. And, erman perfection, French tains feature pinstripes facing out and in keeping with its nature, the biggest and charm, Moroccan tempera- violet tie-silk facing in – his favorite color. most successful trends make do without Gment and American modernity RENTZ GETTY IMAGES/ANDREAS “Each room tells a story taken from my institutionalized events. In fact, it’s possible – these are the characteristics Patrick own life,” says Hellmann, explaining the that the creative drive and ability of Berlin- Hellmann (64) uses to describe his own personal touch at his exclusive hotel. His ers to turn ideas into good business models designs. But they are also an apt descrip- international guests appreciate this indi- is thwarted only by too the excesses of well- tion of this Berlin designer himself. His viduality to such an extent that “some meaning patronage. Those who rely too father was a Berlin fashion merchant, his even want to spend every night in a dif- much on help from above can end up para- mother was Spanish and he was born ferent room,” says the hotelier, grinning. lyzing themselves. And even Fashion Council in Casablanca in 1955. The language There is only one room at the hotel Germany can’t afford to offer anything more spoken at his father’s studio was Italian, that Hellmann will most certainly not than help with self-help. and the family spoke French at home. be redesigning, and that is the personal While it’s true that many Berlin designers When Hellmann was nine years old, his Patrick Hellmann (middle) with Alec Völkel aka Boss Burns (left) of suite of Karl Lagerfeld. The famed and labels still operate on a small scale, this family moved to the United States, and The BossHoss and Till Lindemann (right) of Rammstein at a Schloßhotel party Chanel designer, who passed away in isn’t necessarily a bad omen. On the contrary, in 1978 they moved to Berlin. February, equipped the room with per- the era of large major German fashion brands His mother still lives in Cincinnati, and industry. He now owns and operates interior design. In 2017, he bought Berlin’s sonal furniture and art objects. “We are that helped shape the fate of the international Hellmann is planning to visit her there eleven stores from Berlin and London to legendary Schlosshotel in the Grunewald, very proud that Karl Lagerfeld set up fashion scene is long gone. These days, digita- this month to celebrate her 90th birth- Moscow, Dubai and Baku, each designed which was built in 1914 and lies in a this suite, and the most we will ever do lization offers incredible growth opportuni- day. “For me, it’s still like coming home,” in his characteristic black, white and verdant and elegant part of the city. A is refresh it a bit,” insists Hellmann, who ties that are better suited to small and agile he explains. Although he holds only a silver. With the exception of the two in number of hotel chains had already tried attaches great importance to maintain- startups rather than lumbering corporations. German passport, he does possess a cov- Berlin, all of Hellmann’s stores are oper- their luck with the hotel and failed, even ing his hotel’s reputation for fashion. At the moment, Berlin is witnessing the eted US Green Card. And now, Hellmann ated as part of a franchise. Russians even though German fashion czar Karl Lager- This coming summer, he also intends emergence of a highly modern fashion middle is looking to establish even more connec- rank his luxury brand PHC label higher feld himself had given it a thorough restyl- to reopen the 5-star hotel’s restaurant, class. The hipster attitude of many other proj- tions with his former home, this time via than Brioni and Tom Ford. ing. It is entirely possible that Hellmann, a Papillon, where upscale international ects should not distract us from this fact. business ties. And now it’s time to add a store in successful entrepreneur, assumed the risk cuisine will be served. Berlin design is making its way upwards. Having had a shop-within-a-shop at the US. The perfect fit of a Hellmann for sentimental reasons. Indeed, when he According to Hellmann, his hotel Taking a number of unexpected detours, Barneys in Manhattan until the US finan- suit makes every man look good: “New first came to Berlin in 1978, Hellmann was snuggled within the tranquil Grunewald it’s slowly but successfully staking its claim cial crisis in 2008, Hellmann is eager to Yorkers are very fashionable, so they’ll invited shortly thereafter to a reception forest is ideal for “guests who want a in the international fashion scene – with a return to the city that never sleeps. “The appreciate that,” he argues. He himself at the Schlosshotel in the Grunewald: “I true sense of privacy.” The entrepreneur work ethic resting on medium-sized company city has an unbelievable positive energy,” rarely goes shopping on any of his regu- immediately fell in love with this wonder- himself, who lives with his wife and five- values and access to good Wi-Fi. And no wor- he gushes, “you can feel it as soon as you lar trips to New York. “I always wear the ful place,” recalls the designer. year-old son in Berlin-Mitte, has been ries, there are still more than enough parties, get off the plane.” Hellmann also sees Los same thing,” the designer admits – a black The Renaissance-style hotel was also designing the interiors of private homes pop-up store openings, dinners and panel Angeles as a perfect potential location for sweater (cotton in summer, cashmere in where German actress Romy Schneider for years, and also created the Lalique talks going on outside of the erstwhile Fash- one of his stores. Of course, he already winter), dark blue jeans, ankle boots – (1938–1982) got married – twice. And its Suite (€16,000/night) for the five-star ion Week schedule – places and spaces where knows “there’s nothing anywhere that and done. Hellmann is less interested famous Jugendstil bar was often the last Hotel Prince de Galles in Paris. This fashion professionals can continue to do their doesn’t already exist in the US.” But he’s in himself and much more interested in stop of the night for beloved German means there’s only one thing this Berlin “networking.” There’s no need to fear that still convinced that his collection will be making his clients look their best. Stars comedian and enthusiastic drinker designer is still missing: “Of course, I Berlin will run out of events any time soon. able to make a mark on the American like Rammstein lead singer Till Linde- Harald Juhnke (1929–2005), who lived would love to redesign a hotel in New fashion market. Indeed, in keeping with mann (56) and German national soccer just around the corner. In 2006, Germa- York.” the credo of his company, he has “the player Jérôme Boateng (30) are big fans ny’s national team stayed at the five-star Julia Hackober is deputy director at power of a perfect suit.” of his work. hotel during the Soccer World Cup. Iconist.de, a digital lifestyle magazine With the help of this motto, Hellmann Hellmann also recently translated his Hellmann has now re-designed 22 of Claudia von Duehren is a culture belonging to the Welt Group. made his way to the top of the fashion perfectionist sensibilities to the realm of the 53 total rooms and suites (starting at editor at Bild and BZ in Berlin.

Julia Hackober is deputy director at ICONIST.de, a digital lifestyle magazine belonging to the WELT Group. Claudia von Duehren is a culture editor at BILD and Think Tank Berlin BZ in Berlin. #EUREFcampus gasometertour.de gasometertour.de ©

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